Spindle Grease Seal Set for L44643 Inner Bearing and 1.980 Bearing Buddy

Spindle Grease Seal Set for L44643 Inner Bearing and 1.980 Bearing Buddy

Item # BB60001

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Bearing Buddy Seals - BB60001
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  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.375 Inch I.D.
  • 1.980 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing Buddy
Minimize grease leakage and maximize the life of your trailer's grease seals by switching to this smooth-operating system. The high-quality neoprene seals ride on consistently greased stainless steel rings for easy, free movement. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Spindle Grease Seal Set for L44643 Inner Bearing and 1.980 Bearing Buddy part number BB60001 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (30)
  • Q & A (16)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB60001

Minimize grease leakage and maximize the life of your trailer's grease seals by switching to this smooth-operating system. The high-quality neoprene seals ride on consistently greased stainless steel rings for easy, free movement.


Features:

  • Maintains a smoothly operating grease seal system
    • Reduces grease leakage caused by rough seal surfaces
    • Lasts longer than typical grease seals by minimizing wear and tear
  • Works with Bearing Buddy bearing protectors (sold separately)
    • Bearing Buddy maintains grease pressure, ensuring smooth operation of ring and seal
  • Constructed of high-quality, durable materials that can withstand high pressure
  • Includes stainless steel seal ring; O-ring; neoprene, double-lip grease seal; and installation instructions
  • Made in USA


Specs:

  • Application: trailer spindles with L44643 inner bearing and Bearing Buddy models with 1.980" hub bore
  • Grease seal dimensions:
    • Inner diameter: 1.375"
    • Outer diameter: 1.980"
  • Seal ring dimensions:
    • Inner diameter: 1.002"
    • Outer diameter: 1.375"
  • Kit includes all parts necessary for 2 hubs


The high-quality seal in this unique kit is made of neoprene, a flexible, synthetic rubber that remains stable even at high temperatures. Unlike typical grease seals, which wear as they ride along rough surfaces, this neoprene seal rides on a smooth, durable stainless steel ring. By using this grease seal set along with your Bearing Buddy bearing protector, you can be sure that the seal and ring always have adequate grease for fluid operation.

Bearing Buddy Spindle Seal Set

Note: If your axle spindles already have permanent, stainless steel surface rings, you do not need this spindle seal system.



60001 Bearing Buddy Spindle Seal Kit 1





Video of Spindle Grease Seal Set for L44643 Inner Bearing and 1.980 Bearing Buddy


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Spindle Grease Seal Set for L44643 Inner Bearing and 1.980 Bearing Buddy - BB60001

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (30 Customer Reviews)

Minimize grease leakage and maximize the life of your trailer's grease seals by switching to this smooth-operating system. The high-quality neoprene seals ride on consistently greased stainless steel rings for easy, free movement.

- BB60001
by:

Product was as advertised,installation was a breeze especially with the tutorial, 553596



- BB60001
by:

The old set of seals were oozing a little so I installed a set of new bearings and stock seals purchased from my local trailer supply store. I took it for a test ride, huge hunks of grease all over the inside of my rims, a real disappointment. Got on the web with etrailer.com, they got the 1.980 Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set - BB60001 and the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A in a few days. It took 45 minutes to read the instructions, install the grease seals and protectors and clean-up. What a great fix! I had to make a 200 mile run that day to pick-up a classic canoe for a customer, not a speck of grease anywhere, clean, clean, clean!!! Great product, great fix, great price and service from etraler.com. Thanks 71261



- BB60001
by:

I had ordered the Bearing Buddy seals before so this time I went to etrailer.com and had the specific ones I needed for my trailer in Just minutes. I highly recommend the Bearilng Buddy Seals if you have a trailer with graseable hubs. I could not find the seals in stock locally. 460327


Comments

I HAVE BEEN USING THIS SEAL FOR A YEAR AND IT HAS WORKED PERFECTLY NO GREASE LEAKS. I HAVE 2 OTHER BOAT TRAILERS WITH LUB HUBS AND THE NEXT TIME I HAVE THE HUBS OFF THEY WILL GET THIS SEAL

Sam - 12/15/2018

46755

- BB60001
by:

I have a Trailrite trailer for my boat. I used the new seals after removing the old ones to repack the inner bearings. The spindle already had the shinny insert, but the new ones wouldn't fit over the existing spindle and the existing ones looked good. I used the brass portion with rubber seal and the spring. 513402



- BB60001
by:

etrailer was informative and knowledgeable on product. Pricing was very good. My old jet ski trailer was getting impossible to keep grease in wheel bearings. The Bearing Buddy spindle seal system was easy to install and looks like it should work perfectly. As you can see in pictures the spindles have significant wear and the kit fit perfectly. I expect to not be throwing grease everywhere. 437992


Comments

Excellent. Trailer has been over many miles and very many launches. No leaks and not throwing grease anywhere

Phamous - 09/30/2018

44149

- BB60001
by:

installed E-Z. So far, no leaks. 713921



- BB60001
by:

Good quality product and saved me money because I didn't have to replace axle.Todd I 703668



- BB60001
by:

Order received promply, with all items received and in good order. 493556



- BB60001
by:

This item fit as described and it appears it's going to save me quite a bit of money on not having to replace the complete axle very nice product at a very reasonable price 482864



- BB60001
by:

great service and prices 423129



- BB60001
by:

Nice upgrade and repair for my 1967 Little Dude trailer. Everything went together well and also installed Bearing Buddies. etrailers service is excellent as usual 401092



- BB60001
by:

The stainless axle seals and bearing seals were a breeze to install. I also as you know installed new bearings and races that I purchased from you. The entire process went very well with no problems whatsoever. I'm 75 years old and am experienced in working with cars so it may prove a little more difficult with someone that is a novice. I will, without a doubt use your services again should I need them. Great products!!! 377777


Comments

Bearings are great, one year and perfect!

Larry M - 05/08/2018

38325

- BB60001
by:

great help determining right parts and quick delivery 346009



- BB60001
by:

Excellent 307255



- BB60001
by:

Good product and good company to deal w ith 293985



- BB60001
by:

products were great 267856



- BB60001
by:

As others have said, I'm sure satisfied with the way the seals can save an axle that has damage to the seal surface. Now I will always have a fresh surface each time I change them. The purpose of finding this seal was solely for saving an axle that was old and a very odd, and expensive, size. So, for me, this was a very easy choice. Still in great service and pulled 2400 miles to northwest Ontario and doing great. My sincere thanks to the staff for telling me about this type of seal. Saved me hundreds. 258927


Comments

Have put another 2,000 miles on still going great. Glad I found them glad theyre good. Would recommend at still after a Years use.

David H - 06/08/2017

24798

- BB60001
by:

I have used this product for 20 years. It works very well 246990



- BB60001
by:

Great service. These guys are the best at having the parts you need. 198051


Comments

Everything has been great. I always look to etrailer when I need any bearings for my trailers. Great prices and service keep me coming back when I need to.

JWalden - 06/17/2016

18747

- BB60001
by:

Great product at fantastic prices and prompt shipping. I'm very pleased. Thanks etrailer, Jim P. 195212



- BB60001
by:

This item will save you from buying a axle ... Easy to instAll and put the trailer back for a long use full life again... 189853



- BB60001
by:

Super fast delivery, in very good condition. Haven't installed them yet . 176368



- BB60001
by:

This seal assembly allowed me to run a new grease seal on a damaged axle. A great product as were the kenda 8'' wheels,and the new hubs purchased. Very helpful sales people, and quick regular delivery. 155659



- BB60001
by:

If you have spindles that have corroded sealing surfaces this product will save you the trouble pulling the old spindles and replace them. Sweet. 152098



- BB60001
by:

Super in all respects - highly recommend this site! 137560



- BB60001
by:

Great place for hard to find seals. 132773



- BB60001
by:

An easy to install product that keeps grease where it should be -- in the hub and not all over the inside of your trailer wheels. It allows proper use of Bearing Buddies, and includes an inner stainless seal that repairs a damaged spindle. Excellent! 117376



- BB60001
by:

high quality and easy to install 116477



- BB60001
by:

These grease seals are a great compliment to the Bearing Buddy lubricators. The spindle seals I had were shot and the grease pressure had pushed one of the seals completely out of the hub! The sleeve that came with the kit covered up a worn seal surface on the axle. This product saved me from having to replace the axle! I did have have to cut deeper grooves in the spindle nut to accomodate the cotter pin. I needed to remove about 2 MM and I was able to accomplish this with a Dremel tool and cut-off wheel. 87599


Comments

The Bearing Buddy grease seals are still working great after a year in service. I have to pull my trailer in snow and slush conditions, as well as off-road. In addition, it has to be stored outside when not in use. The grease stays in the hub, where it belongs. I would not install Bearing Buddy lubricators without these seals.

Rich J - 07/05/2014

5342

- BB60001
by:

exactly what i needed. great installation instructions . thanks for the help 67958


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Determining Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set
  • Based on your spindle measurement where the bearings ride it sounds like you have # L44649 for the bearings which means the correct Bearing Buddy seal set is part # BB60005. Although, with those bearings you should have a BTR spindle and the location where the seal rides should be 1.50 inches not 1.25 inches. If the seal location is 1.25 inches then it sounds like you have a BT8 spindle in which case you have # L44643 for the bearings which measure 0.99 inches and you need part # BB60001...
    view full answer...

  • Are Other Parts Needed to Install Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS
  • The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors you referenced, part # BB1980A-SS, do not require other parts for installation on your trailer hubs. What is important is that your current trailer hubs have the correct bore for these parts, 1.980-inches as measured with a digital caliper, and that your outer bearing number matches one of the three that are compatible with this Bearing Buddy kit: L-44643, L-44649 or L-44640. Also please note that Bearing Buddies cannot be used on EZ-Lube spindles...
    view full answer...

  • Availability of Bearing Buddy Grease Seal part # BB60001
  • We do carry the grease seal part # BB60001 that you referenced. It has an inner diameter of 1.375 inch and 1.980 inch.
    view full answer...

  • How to Determine the Correct Grease Seals to Order for a 2002 EZ Loader 21 Foot Boat Trailer
  • To determine the correct grease seal for your trailer spindle and hub, we need to know the inner bearing number installed on the trailer or the dimensions of the seal surface on the spindle and the seal surface in the back of the hub. This will require removing one of the hubs and the grease seal in that hub. If you cannot find the inner bearing part number, you will need a precise measuring tool like a dial caliper to get measurements accurate enough to select the correct grease seals. Boat...
    view full answer...

  • Availability of a Replacement Grease Seal with 1.5 Inch Inner Diameter and 1.980 Outer Diameter
  • The closest grease seals that we carry to the dimensions you have specified are Grease Seals, # RG06-020, for a double lip seal pair, or # 10-9 for 1 seal. These have an inner diameter of 1.5 inches and an outer diameter of 1.987 inches. That is only .007 inches larger than the 1.980 you have indicated. To find the exact replacement, I would need to know the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the metal of the bearings. I have included a video below showing how to remove, inspect,...
    view full answer...

  • Grease Seal Recommendation for a Spindle with Inner Bearing # L44643
  • It sounds like you are looking for the correct grease seal for your spindle. If your inner bearing is part # L44643 and the grease seal journal, or mounting location, on the spindle is 1.25 inches, then you have two grease seal options. For a standard double lip grease seal, you can use part # 34823. This seal will sit on the grease seal journal of the spindle. Your second option is the Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set, # BB60001. These seals mount on a stainless steel seal ring and sit...
    view full answer...

  • New Grease Seal Leaked After Installation of Bearing Buddies with Hub Kit # 8-248-50UC1
  • Thank you for your recent purchase from etrailer. The grease seal included with this hub kit has an inner diameter of 1.500-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches. This seal should be fully seated into the rear bore of the hub so that it is flush with the back hub surface. The grease seal leak you experienced could come from the seal not being fully seated into the hub, or it could, as you noted, be a result of the over-filling of your Bearing Buddies. If this hub does not have...
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  • Grease Seal Installation When Using Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors
  • When installing the double-lip grease seals like # BB60001 that are needed when using Bearing Buddy bearing protectors like # BB1980A-SS you want to install the rear grease seals as gently as you can, to avoid any deformation of their shape, and only until they are flush with the rear hub bore.
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  • Can Older Race in Trailer Hub Be Reused and Will Grease Seal Installed Past Flush be Okay
  • Reusing your old race is totally fine and going just a little bit past flush with the grease seal is totally fine as well. Normally we recommend flush but if you are just a bit past that there won't be any problems.
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  • Which Bearing Buddies Fit Trailer Hub # 34822545BX
  • You will need Bearing Buddies that fit a 1.98 diameter hub bore. We have several models. For stainless steel use # BB1980A-SS. For chrome plated use # BB1980A. And, if the hub is threaded, use # BB1980T-SS. I also recommend special seals for use with Bearing Buddies, # BB60001, to prevent having a blow out with a regular seal.
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  • How To Determine Which Bearing Kit Will Work For Trailer
  • Many times when adding grease with the Bearing Buddy, a customer will add too much grease and blow out the rear grease seal which causes just what you say is happening to your wheel. I am sorry but to really be able to tell you what bearing kit you need for your Escort trailer is to disassemble a hub on one side of the trailer and get the bearing part numbers that are stamped on the bearings.There is an inner and outer bearing. With these part numbers I will be able to determine the bearings,...
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  • Compatibility of the Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set on Boat Trailer Axle
  • The Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Kit, # BB60001, is compatible on spindles that use the L44646 inner wheel bearing. The seals ID is 1.375 inches, but the stainless steel rings that slide over the spindle fit the 1.275 inch seal surface on the spindle. When installed on the axle, the grease seal will seat to the steel ring and complete the seal between the hub and the axle. The linked video will show how the seal, steel ring, and O-ring will install on an axle.
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  • Recommendation For Correct Grease Seal When Using Bearing Buddy Protectors on Motorcycle Trailer
  • The Bearing Buddy Seals, part # BB60001, will not fit your application. I would recommend to use the TruRyde Double Lip Grease Seals, part # RG06-010. These are the correct size and are a double lip grease seal. These seals will work better than the normal single lip seal, when using the Bearing Buddy protectors on your trailer. The double lip seal will help maintain the slight pressure that is in the hub when using the Bearing Buddy protectors.
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Grease Cap & Seal for Boat Trailer Using Dexter Hub 34822BX
  • For a hub like the Dexter # 34822BX that has a hub bore diameter of 1.98-inches, you'll want to use stainless steel Bearing Buddy # BB1980A-SS. These will provide the best resistance to corrosion and will allow the boat trailer's wheels to be completely submerged. The blue indicator makes it easy to see when you need to add grease. If this will be your first time using Bearing Buddies use caution when filling them initially. There can be a tendency to over-fill which can cause your inner...
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  • What Order do the Parts Get Installed for Spindle Grease Seal Set # BB60001 for Bearing Buddies
  • The video is correct. The diagram is more for identifying the parts and their basic placement. The o-ring actually is supposed to ride on the spindle but can actually fit through that stainless steel ring when not on the spindle. So basically, you will slide on the stainless steel ring first then slip the o-ring on. The grease seal will install in the back of the hub just like you would normally do with a seal. You would then install the hub. So the diagram is basically an exploded...
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  • How to Determine Bearing Race Replacements for a Trailer Hub
  • Since you have the grease seal and bearings already it would seem that you are looking for replacement races. You can measure to find the replacements or you can get the numbers off of them. I attached a picture that shows all of the replacement parts we offer for a trailer hub and how to identify what you have so that it can be replaced.
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Info for this part was:

Written by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
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Video Edited:
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