View Cart
Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal

Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal

Item # BK1-150

lowest price pledge

Retail:$18.99

Our Price: $11.95

You Save: 37%
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Orders above $99 qualify for Free Shipping

Shipping Weight: 0.61 lbs

Quantity: 
In Stock, Ships Today
etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK1-150
zoom in icon
zoom out icon
Comment field cannot be left empty.
Name field cannot be left empty.
Please enter a valid email address.

Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.

Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.

pop out icon replay 360 icon
horizontal rotate icon

Product Images

In Use/Installed

Customer Photos


  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 2200 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44649
  • Race L44610
Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal part number BK1-150 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (360)
  • Q & A (82)
  • Videos (3)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK1-150


  • Kit Includes:
    • One Inner Bearing and Race
    • One Outer Bearing and Race
    • Grease Seal
    • Cotter Pin
    • EZ Lube spindle washer
  • Fits spindles that use 1.063 ID inner and outer bearings


Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
Outer race
Inner race
L44649
L44649
10-60
1.500"
L44610L44610


BK1-150 TruRyde Trailer Bearings and Races - Bearing L44649 - 10-60 Seal - 3500 lbs Axle





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2000 - 2000 Airstream Safari Travel Trailer 23




Video of Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal - BK1-150

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (360 Customer Reviews)


- BK1-150
by:

Items were just what I needed, catalog was easy to navigate and items were shipped fast etrailer has always supplied superior items at a low price 136467


Comments

Bearings are doing great I have pulled the boat several miles without any issues.

Dwayne - 06/19/2015

12649

- BK1-150
by:

great price and quick shipping 230740


Comments

1 year in and no problems

keith - 10/24/2016

21609

- BK1-150
by:

Easy to find & order. Received quickly. 223322


Comments

no problem. will use you guys again in the future

Len - 08/31/2016

20692

- BK1-150
by:

The bearings I purchased from Etrailer are excellent. As I purchased the hubs from Etrailer, pulling the order history, clicked on the hub, the site told me exactly the correct parts to order -- and they arrived a few days later. The bearings were obviously the perfect fit. Sure beats guessing in a store isle or parts counter which bearings will fit. Nothing is worse than seeing a trailer on the side of the road with a cooked bearing, especially if it is yours! An hour or two on the driveway putting in the correct new bearings will allow you to just cruise down the highway with confidence to the fishing lake. And I sincerely feel bad when I see a broken trailer on the side of the highway, and although I have stopped occasionally to help -- not much I can really do except offer some water and the use of my phone. 364034


Comments

Just re-packed the bearings this week - do it every spring as it is a boat trailer bearings were in great shape, no water intrusion, really did not need repacking, but better safe than sorry. I have confidence these bearings will go for a few more years.

Tom W - 04/07/2018

37019

- BK1-150
by:

I always looked online to verify the product I need. Of course the auto chains claimed to have the parts so I drove locally and wasted time attempting to get the parts I needed at two chains. As usual they did not have them on hand, the people at the desk had no idea at all of the parts I needed and the prices were double. I went back to etrailer and ordered precisely the parts I needed. The order was shipped very promptly and delivered in incredible time at economy rates. This is the place to purchase trailer parts. 431507



- BK1-150
by:

E trailer did a fantastic job. Before order: Technical support / help was excellent. Goal, conversion of a 1998 Floe snowmobile trailer from surge to electric brakes. Problem, due to time and corrosion, I could only supply partial part numbers, spindle diameter. etrailer did a fantastic job, researching, and getting me the correct part numbers, so I could order. Julie did a great job. She was very timely, communicated clearly and honestly, and just “kept me in the loop”. I received the order came on the projected date, complete and undamaged. Excellent. I would highly recommend etrailer, for your part needs. 439118



- BK1-150
by:

In preparing to take a used tent trailer on its first long trip, I thought it might be a good idea to travel with bearing kits in case I run into trouble. When I got info on the bearings from the manufacturer, it was super easy to find exactly what I needed here (and at less than 1/3 the cost from the manufacturer's website). I placed the order and the kits arrived in 3 days. Around $20 for a bit of peace of mind is not a bad investment! 390124



- BK1-150
by:

The bearings and races were installed without any problems, plus the shipment came much quicker than I'd expected. Overall excellent! 128179


Comments

Ive had no problems with the trailer after replacing the bearings, races,

Troy K - 05/05/2015

11397

- BK1-150
by:

I installed a set of bearings, races and seals on my Chalet, Aframe camper a year ago. Just prior to a five thousand mile camping trip. Since then I've probably towed it another three to four thousand miles with no issues. I've purchased another set in preparation for the next change out in another year or so. I live in Arizona where it's a hundred miles to anywhere and the trailer has been to Indiana twice. Temperatures are high and miles add up fast. We spent two hundred days camping last year. Not a single bearing problem. 378555


Comments

Been another year in service and another 6000 miles. No problem.

John R - 05/10/2018

38363

- BK1-150
by:

Finely got around to repacking the wheel bearings on our Scamp 13 travel trailer. The seal puller popped out the bearing seal without damaging. Now I have a spares for an emergency back up. The bearing grease packer also saved time and made the job much easier. I have ordered all my towing and trailer news from etrailer. Their business model, web site and customer service personnel are second to none. 318687


Comments

Thank you for asking. This kind of follow up as well as you customer service is way I will continue doing business with etrailer. In the past year my wife and I have towed our 13 ft Scamp camper just over 10,000 miles. The etrailer equipment I installed has worked reliably for that time and miles. I have recommended etrailer to any one who will listen and to other Scamp owners on a FaceBook page.

Greg K - 11/11/2017

30721

- BK1-150
by:

Bearing Kit for 1.25" BTR Spindle -- description is a bit misleading. This kit fits spindles with 1-1/16 (or 1.063") inside diameter bearings. I used bearing numbers and seal numbers to select this kit. It was a perfect fit for my spindles and the seal surface of 1.5" diameter. These bearings went into my hubs and slid onto the spindles perfectly. Greased the bearings before installing and hoping for a good ling life from them. 17700



- BK1-150
by:

DO NOT BUY THESE BEARINGS!!! Received the cheap Chinese bearings. Took two kits to replace one set of bearings, one bearing in both sets were bad right out of the bag (they show you bearings in retail packaging but they ship loose in bubble mailer envelopes) they're gritty and poorly machined, save your time and buy bearing somewhere else these are junk. Now I either need to buy 2 more sets from here or get another set from somewhere else. Probably cheaper to buy quality bearings at the part store. This will be the last order I place here, nextra one will be at [a different retailer]. 493013



- BK1-150
by:

Everything came as described and the onsite tutorial was very useful. One thing I would add to this kit is a washer that has no tang on it. My axle has no flat spot on it so I had to modify the washer. One note that I read in a review was to look at both bearings because I almost ordered the wrong kit. I went back and look at both bearings and then found the correct kit. 209150


Comments

We took the trailer from Ventura all the way up to Mammoth without any problems at all.

Mike N - 07/02/2016

19066

- BK1-150
by:

Everything was delivered on-time and in good condition. the bearings are a good fit and I received good customer service over the phone 629503



- BK1-150
by:

This part was what I am looking for 628828



- BK1-150
by:

Product works great. Was easy to install but most especially the support i got from ET was great in figuring out what i needed. 628687



- BK1-150
by:

Always great service and fast shipping, 613052



- BK1-150
by:

great price for the right bearing set 611977



- BK1-150
by:

This bearing set with races worked perfectly on my ez trailer. The seal on the other hand did not fit and had to find a replacement off of the original part number. So far no issues with the bearings. 609833



- BK1-150
by:

The wheel bearings fit perfectly & are still working fine, protecting my boat trailer & the boat on it. In the past year I've submerged them in several lakes & put many miles on the trailer, without any problems. But I also learned that regular, frequent maintenance, & plenty of grease, is critical to the life of wheel bearings, & spindles. 608651



- BK1-150
by:

Some pictures of the trailer I built with your products 607807



- BK1-150
by:

Easy to find exactly what I needed. Quick delivery too. Now I just have to install them 605672


Comments

If youre not familiar with the process, you can watch the video linked below.

-- Mike L - 02/18/2019

49625

- BK1-150
by:

The items purchased on this order have been added to a spares kit that I maintain for my boat and trailer. Because I pull them over long distances across the country, extra sets of bearing kits and installation tooling are a necessity in my book. No other outlet could match etrailer for either selection or price for these products. For that reason, I will always return to this site for any future needs that I may have. 602500



- BK1-150
by:

Love etrailer. Products and mail service are top notch. This rebuilt trailer has been on the road for over a year without any problems. Keep up the good work. I am a fan. Bruce 602308



- BK1-150
by:

received product fast shipping. Thank you Will order again 601363



- BK1-150
by:

The parts I ordered arrived on the date that was listed for delivery. The parts were exactly what I ordered and worked well to refurbish my trailer. 595458



- BK1-150
by:

Great price when compared to local auto supply stores it was 1/2 to 1 /4 the price...the look like quality parts... 594847



- BK1-150
by:

The kit has everything needed to replace the wheel bearings on my trailer. The washer included is just for the Easy-lube hubs, which mine is not. My washer was missing when I dismantled the hub, so I had to cut out the washer included to fit. It would be nice to have a conventional washer included in the kit for those of us with older hubs. 589445



- BK1-150
by:

Excellent product, work perfect 588041



- BK1-150
by:

Used this kit to replace the "EZ Lube" set up on my Featherlite trailer. Installation was straightforward. Also replaced rubber wheel caps with steel wheel caps. etrailer had everything I need for the conversion. 582375



- BK1-150
by:

Bought 3 sets of bearings and not a single cotter pin was included. 582303



- BK1-150
by:

Speedy delivery and parts were as order ed. 578968



- BK1-150
by:

received as ordered - kit makes the job easier 575090



- BK1-150
by:

Great price, exactly what I needed. 574982



- BK1-150
by:

Fast delivery. Perfect fit for old boat trailer. Made in China, but what isn't anymore. 574047



- BK1-150
by:

It was easy to order. I received the parts quickly and am completely satisfied with the parts. Also the person who took the order, Tiffany , was friendly , courteous, and so helpful. 573462



- BK1-150
by:

Good product, great website and real good pricing, also like the availability of a phone number to be able to call in case a question arises. 573337



- BK1-150
by:

The bearing kit that I purchased from you for my trailer is working out great. I remember when I installed the bearings how thankful I was that they were a perfect fit - no "uh oh's" while installing. Thanks to your company for being so accurate with you description and quality. I use the trailer regularly each week an all is great. 572573



- BK1-150
by:

Well done. Fit perfectly and arrived in just a couple of days. 572261



- BK1-150
by:

Perfect replacement. Arrived way sooner than expected. 571331



- BK1-150
by:

Everything was great 566787



- BK1-150
by:

If all businesses cared about their Customers as etrailer does this would be a better world. 565039



- BK1-150
by:

Everything was exactly what I ordered. Service was great and package arrived in timely manner 564765



- BK1-150
by:

Very good price and quality. I will order from this company again! 556220



- BK1-150
by:

I had measured my 1" axle so I ordered 1" bearings...wrong...my 1" axle takes 1.625 bearings...crazy that a 1" axle has two sizes? The correct bearings work great and I am happy with my purchase. 555003



- BK1-150
by:

smooth,fast delivery go to place for trailer needs. 554788



- BK1-150
by:

Service was great,got my parts in couple days,haven't installed parts cant say about them 550211



- BK1-150
by:

Was having trouble finding the bearing kit I needed at autoparts stores. Was easy to find the needed parts on your web site. Arrived in less than 1 week and was the right part. The bearings are installed and time will tell on the quality. 547186



- BK1-150
by:

great product real fast service and shipping will order from etrailer again A+++++ rating Thanks 544472



- BK1-150
by:

Every thing fit and are still working great over a year later 543184


53
364
Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Bearing Kit for Dexter 8-259 Trailer Hub
  • Most of the 8-259 Dexter hubs use L44649 inner and outer bearings. For that you would need bearing kit # BK1-150. The seal included with this kit has an inner diameter of 1.50 inches. I have linked a video showing an example installation.
    view full answer...

  • How to Identify Replacement Bearings & Seals for Magic Tilt Boat Trailer
  • The best way to confirm the correct replacement wheel bearings and seals for your 1999 Magic Tilt boat trailer is to pull one of the hubs and note the inner and outer bearing numbers and seal number. You can then directly search on those part numbers to find replacements. Trailer makers do alternate parts sometimes so even if you have the owner's manual and it says the trailer uses bearings X and Y, they may not be what is in the hubs. It is always best to check the existing parts. We...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement 1-1/16 Inch Straight Spindle Recommendation
  • It sounds like you are just needing BTR EZ Lube Spindle # R104BTREZ for your trailer axle. This straight spindle features 1.06 (1-1/16) inch diameters where the inner and outer bearings sit. It also has a 1.500 inch diameter for the grease seal. If you need a complete bearing kit, you can use # BK1-150. I have attached a short video demonstration on this spindle that you can also check out. I do recommend having a qualified welder both remove your current spindle and install the new one.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit for Pop-Up Camper
  • The best way to determine the replacement bearings needed on your 2011 StarCraft 1019 pop-up camper is to remove one of the wheels and then the hub and look for the number printed on the inner and outer bearing as well as the seal of that hub. Those 3 numbers will help determine the bearing and seal replacements needed. If you can't determine the numbers printed on the bearings due to bearing failure, you can use the 4" Carbon Fiber Digital Caliper # PTW80157 to measure your trailer...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 2000 Viking Pop Up Camper with L44649 Inner and Outer Bearings
  • If both your inner and outer bearings are # L44649 then the correct replacement kit is # BK1-150.
    view full answer...

  • What Bearings Does Dexter Hub 8-248 Take
  • The Dexter Hub part # 84545BX that you referenced uses inner bearing L68149 and outer bearing L44649. For a bearing kit with these you would want the part # BK2-100.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Trailer Hub with Bearings L44649 Inner and Outer
  • Most likely the part # BK1-150 will work well for you. This kit has the same bearings as what you have but to determine if the seal is correct you will need to measure your current one since the number you listed doesn't match. If the seal on your hub rides on a bearing surface that measures 1.50 inches in diameter this kit will match what you have perfectly.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Kit and Bearing Buddys Needed with Inner and Outer Bearings L44649
  • The best (and currently only) bearing kit that comes with the bearings # L44649 and race # L44610 is listed on our site as part # BK1-150. This kit has been reviewed by a wide variety of customers for different applications and it has almost a complete 5 star review so I will let the customers speak for how well the kit works. For Bearing Buddys you need either part # BB1980A which is chrome plated or part # BB1980A-SS which is an upgraded part with a stainless steel construction. I...
    view full answer...

  • Bearings and Brake Assembly Recommendation for 1999 Coleman Utah Popup
  • Since we know your brake assemblies are 10 inch by 2-1/4 inches wide we basically know you have 3,500 lb axles. The easiest solution for needing new shoes is to replace the assemblies as it will cost the same, be much less hassle determining correct parts, easier install, and you get all new components. So for that you'd want the part # AKEBRK-35R for the right hand side and part # AKEBRK-35L for the left hand side. Then for a bearing kit you'd want the part # BK2-100 and you'd be set.
    view full answer...

  • Trailer Hub Bearing Kit Recommendation for 1990 Coleman Pop Up Camper L44649
  • Since your hubs have inner and outer bearing numbers L44649 the correct bearing kit you would need is the part # BK1-150. I attached a trailer bearing install video for you to check out as well. For the standard spindle you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-020. If you have a E-Z Lube spindle, with a grease fitting in the end of the spindle, you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-040.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Hub with Bearings L44649
  • The Bearing Buddy you would want would be the # BB1980A-SS or # BB1980A since you have bearings of L44649 inner and outer.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit For Dexter 8-257 Hub And Drum Assembly On Tandem Trailer
  • The bearing kit you need for each wheel you want to replace is part # BK1-150. This kit includes one inner bearing and race, one outer bearing and race, one grease seal and a washer and cotter pin, so if you are rebuilding each wheel for your tandem trailer you will need 4 kits.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Hub Assembly For Snowmobile Trailer With Dexter EZ-Lube Axle
  • The hub assembly we offer for a 2,200-lb EZ-Lube axle is part # 8-259-50UC1-EZ. This hub has a zinc plating that makes it great for snowmobile trailers or boat trailers. The Inner bearing and race, outer bearing and race, grease seal, grease cap, and galvanized lug nuts are included. The # L44649 inner and outer bearings have a 1.063 inch inner diameter. The # RG06-020 seal has a 1.5 inch inner diameter and 1.987 inch outer diameter. The bearing kit that will work with this hub is...
    view full answer...

  • Availability of Bearing Kit with Grease Seal Included For Trailer with L44649 Bearing
  • A trailer hub assembly will use an inner bearing and race, an outer bearing and race, a grease seal, a cotter pin, and either a dust cap or a bearing protector. I am including a picture that will show where the part numbers are located and the areas that you will need to measure if your parts do not have part numbers etched on them. There is only one grease seal on the spindle and it is located on the rear of the hub assembly (see picture). Looking up the grease seal number CR12427...
    view full answer...

  • EZ-Lube Spindle for L44649 Bearing and 10-60 Grease Seal
  • On the spindle # R104BTREZ, the 1.25 inch refers to the diameter of the stub, not to any of the bearing surfaces, which might be what is confusing you. (See photo). If you currently have the # 8-271-7UC3-EZ hubs that use the L44649 inner and outer bearing, the # R104BTREZ would be the compatible EZ Lube spindle. Part # BK1-150 would be the correct bearing/ seal kit that uses the double-lip seal which we recommend for the EZ-Lube spindles. For your hub bore, you would use the grease cap...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Kit For Dexter EZ Lube Axle That Uses L44649 Bearings
  • The bearing kit we offer that uses the L44649 bearings is part # BK1-150. This kit is designed for 3,500-lb axles and it includes the bearings, races, seal, cotter pin, and an EZ Lube spindle washer. This bearing kit is designed to fit spindles that use 1.063 inch ID inner and outer bearings.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Kit for Boat Trailer with 1-1/16 Inch Diameter Straight Spindle
  • It sounds like your hubs use L44649 bearings which have an inner diameter of 1.063 inches which is 1-1/16 inches. There is a bearing kit with these bearings, # BK1-150. The kit comes with a 10-60 seal that has a 1.5 inch inner diameter. The hubs that take these bearings are usually rated for 2,000 pound axles so this would be the correct kit.
    view full answer...

  • How to Find the Correct Idler Hub Replacement for Boat Trailer
  • In order to find the correct wheel bearings, you can take apart your hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you would need to use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where you need to measure. I've also added a link to a...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Kit Recommendation Using L44649 Inner And Outer Bearings
  • We do offer bearing kits that have part # L44649 for the inner and outer bearings, but the seal included in the kit does not match the 12194TC seal you said you have. We do have replacement seals that may work just fine for you. I did some research and found that the 12194TC seal you said you have measures 1.250 inside diameter, and 1.979 outside diameter. The seal I recommend is part # 34823. The dimensions listed for this seal are 1.249 inside diameter and 1.983 outside diameter. The...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Spindle with Bearing Inner Dimensions of 1.06 inches
  • Sounds like you are in need of the Bearing Kit part # BK1-150 that comes with bearing L44649 which have inner diameters of 1.06 inches. I attached an install video for you to check out as well.
    view full answer...

  • Double Lip Trailer Hub Grease Seal for Bearing # L44649
  • It sounds like you need a 10-60 seal, part # RG06-020. It has a 1.5 inch innder diameter and 1.987 outer diameter. It also fits a BTR spindle which bearing # L44649 is both the inner and outer for. If you need the complete bearing kit use part # BK1-150.
    view full answer...


Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?




  • Why etrailer.com?

    At etrailer.com we guarantee:

  • Highest quality trailer bearings races seals caps for the best price.

    Our Lowest Price Pledge ensures you will never overpay for the parts you need.
  • Real product know-how.

    We make sure that the products we sell are what we say they are, and that they work the way they are supposed to work. Get real advice from a real person who has the knowledge and expertise needed to solve your problem.
  • Most detailed, accurate trailer bearings races seals cap information available.

    Because we take providing accurate product information seriously, we take our own detailed product photos, demo videos and installation videos, as well as verify measurements, instructions, and vehicle fit information.
  • Installations, made easy.

    We love helping people and have the most highly-trained customer service, hands-on experience, step by step videos and installation instructions.
  • Fast shipping.

    Your order is automatically routed to get out of our warehouse and to your door as quickly as possible. Receive free shipping on orders over $99.
  • Personalized service for life.

    We provide one-on-one, personalized service from the ordering process through the life of your product.
  • Trusted since 1946.

    We've been serving customers since our parts store first opened in 1946 and continue to be recognized by our customers, our vendors and third parties for exceptional service.
  • Returns Policy

    Satisfaction Guarantee
    Need to return an item? No problem. Please read our Returns Policy for more information.

Info for this part was:

Video Edited:
Zack K
Expert Research:
Robert G
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Photos by:
Amber A
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Photos by:
Sam P
Video Edited:
Chris R
Photos by:
Zach O
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Alexander C

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.


Product Experts Available Now!

Call 800-298-8924