Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal

Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal

Item # BK1-150

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Shipping Weight: 0.6 lbs

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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal part number BK1-150 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (387)
  • Q & A (90)
  • Videos (3)
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  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK1-150

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 2200 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44649
  • Race L44610


  • Kit Includes:
    • One Inner Bearing and Race
    • One Outer Bearing and Race
    • Grease Seal
    • Cotter Pin
    • EZ Lube spindle washer
  • Fits spindles that use 1.063 ID inner and outer bearings


Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
Outer race
Inner race
L44649
L44649
10-60
1.500"
L44610L44610


BK1-150 TruRyde Trailer Bearings and Races - Bearing L44649 - 10-60 Seal - 3500 lbs Axle







Video of Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal - BK1-150

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (387 Customer Reviews)


- BK1-150
by:

The bearings I purchased from Etrailer are excellent. As I purchased the hubs from Etrailer, pulling the order history, clicked on the hub, the site told me exactly the correct parts to order -- and they arrived a few days later. The bearings were obviously the perfect fit. Sure beats guessing in a store isle or parts counter which bearings will fit. Nothing is worse than seeing a trailer on the side of the road with a cooked bearing, especially if it is yours! An hour or two on the driveway putting in the correct new bearings will allow you to just cruise down the highway with confidence to the fishing lake. And I sincerely feel bad when I see a broken trailer on the side of the highway, and although I have stopped occasionally to help -- not much I can really do except offer some water and the use of my phone. 364034


Comments

Just re-packed the bearings this week - do it every spring as it is a boat trailer bearings were in great shape, no water intrusion, really did not need repacking, but better safe than sorry. I have confidence these bearings will go for a few more years.

Tom W - 04/07/2018

37019

- BK1-150
by:

Finely got around to repacking the wheel bearings on our Scamp 13 travel trailer. The seal puller popped out the bearing seal without damaging. Now I have a spares for an emergency back up. The bearing grease packer also saved time and made the job much easier. I have ordered all my towing and trailer news from etrailer. Their business model, web site and customer service personnel are second to none. 318687


Comments

Thank you for asking. This kind of follow up as well as you customer service is way I will continue doing business with etrailer. In the past year my wife and I have towed our 13 ft Scamp camper just over 10,000 miles. The etrailer equipment I installed has worked reliably for that time and miles. I have recommended etrailer to any one who will listen and to other Scamp owners on a FaceBook page.

Greg K - 11/11/2017

30721

- BK1-150
by:

Easy to find & order. Received quickly. 223322


Comments

no problem. will use you guys again in the future

Len - 08/31/2016

20692

- BK1-150
by:

Items were just what I needed, catalog was easy to navigate and items were shipped fast etrailer has always supplied superior items at a low price 136467


Comments

Bearings are doing great I have pulled the boat several miles without any issues.

Dwayne - 06/19/2015

12649

- BK1-150
by:

DO NOT BUY THESE BEARINGS!!! Received the cheap Chinese bearings. Took two kits to replace one set of bearings, one bearing in both sets were bad right out of the bag (they show you bearings in retail packaging but they ship loose in bubble mailer envelopes) they're gritty and poorly machined, save your time and buy bearing somewhere else these are junk. Now I either need to buy 2 more sets from here or get another set from somewhere else. Probably cheaper to buy quality bearings at the part store. This will be the last order I place here, nextra one will be at [a different retailer]. 493013



- BK1-150
by:

Bearing Kit for 1.25" BTR Spindle -- description is a bit misleading. This kit fits spindles with 1-1/16 (or 1.063") inside diameter bearings. I used bearing numbers and seal numbers to select this kit. It was a perfect fit for my spindles and the seal surface of 1.5" diameter. These bearings went into my hubs and slid onto the spindles perfectly. Greased the bearings before installing and hoping for a good ling life from them. 17700



- BK1-150
by:

The items were purchased for boat trailer. They have three thousand miles on them and are still in great shape. They are a good product at a good value. 726365



- BK1-150
by:

Product was an exact OEM type fit and easy to install. One year post installation I am very happy with the product performance and I have had zero issues. 722517



- BK1-150
by:

After purchasing an order of springs, shackle kit, U-bolts, bearing kit and a new Pro jack for a trailer repair I discovered a week delay in shipping due to one of the items on back order. (Email the day after I ordered informing me of the delay) A call to Angie K. On that Sunday!!!! And she had an in stock item to replace it and had my order on its way Monday morning , Thank You Angie everything sent was what I ordered and correct. Communication was great and they did what they said they would, Good prices and free shipping on my orderThanks again 722572



- BK1-150
by:

Worked great. Same numbers as the original bearings! 718412



- BK1-150
by:

Kathy T was great The parts I ordered were what I needed and they arrived on schedule 717015



- BK1-150
by:

Bearing set seams to appear good quality. Packed well for shipping. If any concerns after install i will edit review. 715180



- BK1-150
by:

Amazing how easy the job of bearing maintenance is with the correct parts. I also ordered the washers. All parts were of the same quality as original or better. Very happy with the parts & service. Parts arrived within a couple days & installed them over the weekend. I would recommend checking axle diameter if you are not positive, mine were 1 1/16" ,not 1" axles. Just saying. 715113



- BK1-150
by:

I have been using etrailer for years and years. They have everything you need and are very helpful when you need advice Keep up the good work 716311



- BK1-150
by:

Very pleased with this company/product , timely delivery and priced right ! 706593



- BK1-150
by:

Great 705065



- BK1-150
by:

Bought two bearing kits for my Time Out tent camper that I pull behind my motorcycle for emergency spares. Haven’t needed them yet but I am preparing. These bearings are made in China and must have snuck past Trump’s tariffs. Bearings, races, and seals look good. They come with a new cotter key and washer. Just add grease. Could have spent the money on USA bearings but hopefully these Chinese units will never be needed. Quick delivery by retailer. I have always been happy with etrailer and their quality products. Try them. 702965



- BK1-150
by:

Received my parts fast and they were exactly what I needed. 696268



- BK1-150
by:

Exactly what I expected. Thanks for fast service. 691171



- BK1-150
by:

parts came on time and were the right ones . still have the same bearings installed 686795



- BK1-150
by:

Just got the bearings Thursday, have to put them in . Thanks for the quick shipping. Brian Edwards 679638



- BK1-150
by:

GREAT PRICE, FAST DELIVERY, WORKED WELL 680927



- BK1-150
by:

Third order from etrailer, same excellent results. Thanks 679772



- BK1-150
by:

Good deal and fast shipping,thanks etra iler.com 677011



- BK1-150
by:

Exactly what I need it for my camper 675257



- BK1-150
by:

My first purchase with eTrailer was for a grease cap and over the psat year have come back for 2 hitch assemblies, bearings/races, tools and 5-6 other things having to do with my boat trailer... all because Donna P and the fine folks at eTrailer are extremely knowledgeable and very easy to do business with. And to top it off their shipping is super fast. I will never go anywhere else, its that good! 673302



- BK1-150
by:

The wheel bearing kit shipped well packaged,arrived on time,was easy to install and has preformed perfectly. 672914



- BK1-150
by:

Excellent product and service! 671858



- BK1-150
by:

The bearing and seal kit I ordered was high quality. However, the best thing about etrailer.com is its website. What a resource! I needed a new bearing kit, but my trailer manufacturer was useless -- never responded to my emails. etrailer made it easy to find out the exact parts I needed and order them, and the videos were exactly what I needed to learn how to replace my bearings. Five stars! 671121



- BK1-150
by:

I have a dexter axle for a boat trailer. The old seals that were on the trailer were incorrect. The kit I purchased included everything I needed and fit correctly. Received the items sooner than expected. 670142



- BK1-150
by:

Fit great. Haven’t driven with them yet 669589



- BK1-150
by:

easy to find & order part needed. Fast deliverey. will use again 667245



- BK1-150
by:

JUST WHAT I ORDERED GOT HERE FAST TH ANHS 647903



- BK1-150
by:

Everything was delivered on-time and in good condition. the bearings are a good fit and I received good customer service over the phone 629503



- BK1-150
by:

This part was what I am looking for 628828



- BK1-150
by:

Product works great. Was easy to install but most especially the support i got from ET was great in figuring out what i needed. 628687



- BK1-150
by:

Always great service and fast shipping, 613052



- BK1-150
by:

great price for the right bearing set 611977



- BK1-150
by:

This bearing set with races worked perfectly on my ez trailer. The seal on the other hand did not fit and had to find a replacement off of the original part number. So far no issues with the bearings. 609833



- BK1-150
by:

The wheel bearings fit perfectly & are still working fine, protecting my boat trailer & the boat on it. In the past year I've submerged them in several lakes & put many miles on the trailer, without any problems. But I also learned that regular, frequent maintenance, & plenty of grease, is critical to the life of wheel bearings, & spindles. 608651



- BK1-150
by:

Some pictures of the trailer I built with your products 607807



- BK1-150
by:

Easy to find exactly what I needed. Quick delivery too. Now I just have to install them 605672


Comments

If youre not familiar with the process, you can watch the video linked below.

-- Mike L - 02/18/2019

49625

- BK1-150
by:

The items purchased on this order have been added to a spares kit that I maintain for my boat and trailer. Because I pull them over long distances across the country, extra sets of bearing kits and installation tooling are a necessity in my book. No other outlet could match etrailer for either selection or price for these products. For that reason, I will always return to this site for any future needs that I may have. 602500



- BK1-150
by:

Love etrailer. Products and mail service are top notch. This rebuilt trailer has been on the road for over a year without any problems. Keep up the good work. I am a fan. Bruce 602308



- BK1-150
by:

received product fast shipping. Thank you Will order again 601363



- BK1-150
by:

The parts I ordered arrived on the date that was listed for delivery. The parts were exactly what I ordered and worked well to refurbish my trailer. 595458



- BK1-150
by:

Great price when compared to local auto supply stores it was 1/2 to 1 /4 the price...the look like quality parts... 594847



- BK1-150
by:

The kit has everything needed to replace the wheel bearings on my trailer. The washer included is just for the Easy-lube hubs, which mine is not. My washer was missing when I dismantled the hub, so I had to cut out the washer included to fit. It would be nice to have a conventional washer included in the kit for those of us with older hubs. 589445



- BK1-150
by:

Excellent product, work perfect 588041



- BK1-150
by:

Used this kit to replace the "EZ Lube" set up on my Featherlite trailer. Installation was straightforward. Also replaced rubber wheel caps with steel wheel caps. etrailer had everything I need for the conversion. 582375


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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  • Replacement 1-1/16 Inch Straight Spindle Recommendation
  • It sounds like you are just needing BTR EZ Lube Spindle # R104BTREZ for your trailer axle. This straight spindle features 1.06 (1-1/16) inch diameters where the inner and outer bearings sit. It also has a 1.500 inch diameter for the grease seal. If you need a complete bearing kit, you can use # BK1-150. I have attached a short video demonstration on this spindle that you can also check out. I do recommend having a qualified welder both remove your current spindle and install the new one.
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  • What Bearings Does Dexter Hub 8-248 Take
  • The Dexter Hub part # 84545BX that you referenced uses inner bearing L68149 and outer bearing L44649. For a bearing kit with these you would want the part # BK2-100.
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  • Replacement Bearing and Seal Kit for 2004 Kendon Motorcycle Trailer
  • My research indicates that grease seal part 125255UC has an outer diameter of 1.980-inches and this correlates with the hubs that use bearing # L44649. The seal part most often used with inner/outer bearing L44649 is seal part # 10-9 which has an inner diameter of 1.50-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches so bearing kit # BK1-150 that you referenced should do it. You can confirm the seal size by measuring a spindle at the point where the seal rides (point B in the linked image)...
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  • Replacement Bearings for 2004 Viking Epic Series M-1906
  • In order to confirm the correct replacement bearings for your 2004 Viking Epic Series M-1906 we need to know your axle capacity. The axle capacity can be found on a sticker located in the center of the axle tube. I have attached a list of options for you below: 2,000 Lb Axle Capacity - part # BK1-100 2,200 Lb Axle Capacity - part # BK1-150 3,500 Lb Axle Capacity - part # BK2-100 I took a look at the weight of your trailer and it would be most likely that you have a 2,000 lb axle...
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  • Bearing Kit for Dexter 8-259 Trailer Hub
  • Most of the 8-259 Dexter hubs use L44649 inner and outer bearings. For that you would need bearing kit # BK1-150. The seal included with this kit has an inner diameter of 1.50 inches. I have linked a video showing an example installation.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for Trailer with L44649 Inner and Outer Bearings and Seal 15192TB
  • Based on the bearing and seal numbers you have provided the correct bearing kit for you is # BK1-150. It has inner/outer bearings L44649 and a 10-60 seal. The 10-60 seal, # RG06-020, that comes in the kit is the same as the Transcom brand 15192TB that you referenced. Be sure to check the hubs for any indication of damage. If the bearings have black discoloration that is a sign they were overheated and there could be other damage that is not obvious to other components.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for EZ Lube Hubs on #9 Torflex Axle
  • Based on my research the Torflex #9 axle (2,000-2,200 pound capacity) features spindles that use the # L44649 inner and outer bearing. This bearing has an inner diameter of 1.063 inches. The grease seal used on the spindle has an inner diameter of 1.50 inches like the TruRyde # 10-9. For a complete kit that includes the bearings, grease seal, cotter pin, and EZ Lube spindle washer you can use part # BK1-150.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Bearing Buddy Protectors for 2008 Yacht Club Trailer
  • I contacted Yacht Club Trailers and was able to track down the correct inner and outer bearings for your 2008 model trailer using the VIN you provided. The spindle on your trailer uses the # L44649 bearing (1.063 inner diameter) for both the inner and outer bearing. For a complete kit that includes the races and grease seal you can use # BK1-150. Most likely the correct Bearing Buddy size is the part # BB1980A, which fits a 1.980 inch hub bore. I recommend taking a quick measurement...
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  • Bearings and Brake Assembly Recommendation for 1999 Coleman Utah Popup
  • Since we know your brake assemblies are 10 inch by 2-1/4 inches wide we basically know you have 3,500 lb axles. The easiest solution for needing new shoes is to replace the assemblies as it will cost the same, be much less hassle determining correct parts, easier install, and you get all new components. So for that you'd want the part # AKEBRK-35R for the right hand side and part # AKEBRK-35L for the left hand side. Then for a bearing kit you'd want the part # BK2-100 and you'd be set.
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  • Recommended Hub Assembly For Snowmobile Trailer With Dexter EZ-Lube Axle
  • The hub assembly we offer for a 2,200-lb EZ-Lube axle is part # 8-259-50UC1-EZ. This hub has a zinc plating that makes it great for snowmobile trailers or boat trailers. The Inner bearing and race, outer bearing and race, grease seal, grease cap, and galvanized lug nuts are included. The # L44649 inner and outer bearings have a 1.063 inch inner diameter. The # RG06-020 seal has a 1.5 inch inner diameter and 1.987 inch outer diameter. The bearing kit that will work with this hub is...
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  • Trailer Hub Bearing Kit Recommendation for 1990 Coleman Pop Up Camper L44649
  • Since your hubs have inner and outer bearing numbers L44649 the correct bearing kit you would need is the part # BK1-150. I attached a trailer bearing install video for you to check out as well. For the standard spindle you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-020. If you have a E-Z Lube spindle, with a grease fitting in the end of the spindle, you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-040.
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  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Hub with Bearings L44649
  • The Bearing Buddy you would want would be the # BB1980A-SS or # BB1980A since you have bearings of L44649 inner and outer.
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  • Availability of Bearing Kit with Grease Seal Included For Trailer with L44649 Bearing
  • A trailer hub assembly will use an inner bearing and race, an outer bearing and race, a grease seal, a cotter pin, and either a dust cap or a bearing protector. I am including a picture that will show where the part numbers are located and the areas that you will need to measure if your parts do not have part numbers etched on them. There is only one grease seal on the spindle and it is located on the rear of the hub assembly (see picture). Looking up the grease seal number CR12427...
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  • Replacement Hub and Bearings for 1989 Tracker Boat Trailer
  • Based on the pictures you attached and the outer bearing measurement you provided, it appears that you have 1-1/16 inch spindle like the Redline EZ Lube Spindle # R104BTREZ. This particular spindle is designed for 2,000 pound axles and will use the same inner and outer bearing. I have attached the spindle's dimensions so you can compare them to what you have in order to verify the replacement bearing sizes. I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157, as the measurements will need...
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  • Bearing Kit for Boat Trailer with 1-1/16 Inch Diameter Straight Spindle
  • It sounds like your hubs use L44649 bearings which have an inner diameter of 1.063 inches which is 1-1/16 inches. There is a bearing kit with these bearings, # BK1-150. The kit comes with a 10-60 seal that has a 1.5 inch inner diameter. The hubs that take these bearings are usually rated for 2,000 pound axles so this would be the correct kit.
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  • How to Find the Correct Idler Hub Replacement for Boat Trailer
  • In order to find the correct wheel bearings, you can take apart your hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you would need to use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where you need to measure. I've also added a link to a...
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Components for Trailstar Trailer with Idler Hubs
  • Hubs that use # L44649 inner and outer bearings are idler type hubs like # AKIHUB-440-2-2K. The correct matching race is indeed part # L44610. We offer these as individual parts but we also offer a complete bearing kit # BK1-150 that includes bearings, races, grease seal with o-ring, tang spindle washer and cotter pin. For a D washer use part # 5-23 and for a castle nut use part # 165931.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit For Dexter 8-257 Hub And Drum Assembly On Tandem Trailer
  • The bearing kit you need for each wheel you want to replace is part # BK1-150. This kit includes one inner bearing and race, one outer bearing and race, one grease seal and a washer and cotter pin, so if you are rebuilding each wheel for your tandem trailer you will need 4 kits.
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Trailer Hub with Bearings L44649 Inner and Outer
  • Most likely the part # BK1-150 will work well for you. This kit has the same bearings as what you have but to determine if the seal is correct you will need to measure your current one since the number you listed doesn't match. If the seal on your hub rides on a bearing surface that measures 1.50 inches in diameter this kit will match what you have perfectly.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit Needed for a 10ft 1995 Triton Lite Trailer
  • It looks like the 10 ft Triton Lite trailers were built with 2,000 lb Dexter axles. There are two bearing kits we carry that may work for you and the best way to determine which kit is the correct kit for your trailer is to compare the part numbers of your current bearings with the part numbers of the bearing kits. Bearing Kit, # BK1-150, uses L44649 inner and outer bearings. Bearing Kit, # BK1-100, uses L44643 inner and outer bearings. The part number of the bearings will be stamped into...
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  • Bearing Kit and Bearing Buddys Needed with Inner and Outer Bearings L44649
  • The best (and currently only) bearing kit that comes with the bearings # L44649 and race # L44610 is listed on our site as part # BK1-150. This kit has been reviewed by a wide variety of customers for different applications and it has almost a complete 5 star review so I will let the customers speak for how well the kit works. For Bearing Buddys you need either part # BB1980A which is chrome plated or part # BB1980A-SS which is an upgraded part with a stainless steel construction. I...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation Using L44649 Inner And Outer Bearings
  • We do offer bearing kits that have part # L44649 for the inner and outer bearings, but the seal included in the kit does not match the 12194TC seal you said you have. We do have replacement seals that may work just fine for you. I did some research and found that the 12194TC seal you said you have measures 1.250 inside diameter, and 1.979 outside diameter. The seal I recommend is part # 34823. The dimensions listed for this seal are 1.249 inside diameter and 1.983 outside diameter. The...
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  • EZ-Lube Spindle for L44649 Bearing and 10-60 Grease Seal
  • On the spindle # R104BTREZ, the 1.25 inch refers to the diameter of the stub, not to any of the bearing surfaces, which might be what is confusing you. (See photo). If you currently have the # 8-271-7UC3-EZ hubs that use the L44649 inner and outer bearing, the # R104BTREZ would be the compatible EZ Lube spindle. Part # BK1-150 would be the correct bearing/ seal kit that uses the double-lip seal which we recommend for the EZ-Lube spindles. For your hub bore, you would use the grease cap...
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  • Bearing Kit For Dexter EZ Lube Axle That Uses L44649 Bearings
  • The bearing kit we offer that uses the L44649 bearings is part # BK1-150. This kit is designed for 3,500-lb axles and it includes the bearings, races, seal, cotter pin, and an EZ Lube spindle washer. This bearing kit is designed to fit spindles that use 1.063 inch ID inner and outer bearings.
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  • How to Identify Replacement Bearings & Seals for Magic Tilt Boat Trailer
  • The best way to confirm the correct replacement wheel bearings and seals for your 1999 Magic Tilt boat trailer is to pull one of the hubs and note the inner and outer bearing numbers and seal number. You can then directly search on those part numbers to find replacements. Trailer makers do alternate parts sometimes so even if you have the owner's manual and it says the trailer uses bearings X and Y, they may not be what is in the hubs. It is always best to check the existing parts. We...
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