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Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal

Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal

Item # BK1-150
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal part number BK1-150 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK1-150

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 2200 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44649
  • Race L44610


  • Kit Includes:
    • One Inner Bearing and Race
    • One Outer Bearing and Race
    • Grease Seal
    • Cotter Pin
    • EZ Lube spindle washer
  • Fits spindles that use 1.063 ID inner and outer bearings


Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
Outer race
Inner race
L44649
L44649
10-60
1.500"
L44610L44610


BK1-150 TruRyde Trailer Bearings and Races - Bearing L44649 - 10-60 Seal - 3500 lbs Axle





Video of Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal - BK1-150

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (426 Customer Reviews)


- BK1-150
by:

I ordered bearings races and seals. Delivered on time 7000 highway miles on the bearings so for no problem what so ever . 747255



- BK1-150
by:

With the exception of the grease caps, the install was textbook - nice and simple. The grease caps ironically seem to be the simplest and easiest part to install but are frustratingly difficult. Gotta be able to put a little longer taper or something to ease driving the in without getting them cocked and eventually bent so their useless. Love Etrailer - quick, easy, good price, fast delivery, .... Bearing kit works great! But those darn grease caps 768055



- BK1-150
by:

DO NOT BUY THESE BEARINGS!!! Received the cheap Chinese bearings. Took two kits to replace one set of bearings, one bearing in both sets were bad right out of the bag (they show you bearings in retail packaging but they ship loose in bubble mailer envelopes) they're gritty and poorly machined, save your time and buy bearing somewhere else these are junk. Now I either need to buy 2 more sets from here or get another set from somewhere else. Probably cheaper to buy quality bearings at the part store. This will be the last order I place here, nextra one will be at [a different retailer]. 493013



- BK1-150
by:

The bearings I purchased from Etrailer are excellent. As I purchased the hubs from Etrailer, pulling the order history, clicked on the hub, the site told me exactly the correct parts to order -- and they arrived a few days later. The bearings were obviously the perfect fit. Sure beats guessing in a store isle or parts counter which bearings will fit. Nothing is worse than seeing a trailer on the side of the road with a cooked bearing, especially if it is yours! An hour or two on the driveway putting in the correct new bearings will allow you to just cruise down the highway with confidence to the fishing lake. And I sincerely feel bad when I see a broken trailer on the side of the highway, and although I have stopped occasionally to help -- not much I can really do except offer some water and the use of my phone. 364034


Comments
Just re-packed the bearings this week - do it every spring as it is a boat trailer bearings were in great shape, no water intrusion, really did not need repacking, but better safe than sorry. I have confidence these bearings will go for a few more years.
Tom W - 04/07/2018

37019

- BK1-150
by:

Finely got around to repacking the wheel bearings on our Scamp 13 travel trailer. The seal puller popped out the bearing seal without damaging. Now I have a spares for an emergency back up. The bearing grease packer also saved time and made the job much easier. I have ordered all my towing and trailer news from etrailer. Their business model, web site and customer service personnel are second to none. 318687


Comments
Thank you for asking. This kind of follow up as well as you customer service is way I will continue doing business with etrailer. In the past year my wife and I have towed our 13 ft Scamp camper just over 10,000 miles. The etrailer equipment I installed has worked reliably for that time and miles. I have recommended etrailer to any one who will listen and to other Scamp owners on a FaceBook page.
Greg K - 11/11/2017

30721

- BK1-150
by:

I must say,I am VERY pleased with this product. It took me a few attempts,purchases,and returns to finally get the correct bearing kits. One place even sold me a set of assembled hubs,and told me they would be an exact fit. Wrong,the inner seal and bearing was 2.25 inches id. That was 3/4 of an inch too big. I stumbled across etrailer.com while looking for new hubs. Instead I started reading the experts comments, and their precise measurements provided sold me on the bearing kits. I remained concerned while my order was being shipped,but once I got my order and inspected the contents,I knew I can finally get my trailer back on the road. I was too excited to get it done,I took no pictures. I'm also extremely confident that I will be ordering another two bearing kits in the very near future to have on hand just in case. Thank you etrailer.com for having the staff that knows their stuff. Thank you a thousand times. Ralph 744937



- BK1-150
by:

Items were just what I needed, catalog was easy to navigate and items were shipped fast etrailer has always supplied superior items at a low price 136467


Comments
Bearings are doing great I have pulled the boat several miles without any issues.
Dwayne - 06/19/2015

12649

- BK1-150
by:

Bearing Kit for 1.25" BTR Spindle -- description is a bit misleading. This kit fits spindles with 1-1/16 (or 1.063") inside diameter bearings. I used bearing numbers and seal numbers to select this kit. It was a perfect fit for my spindles and the seal surface of 1.5" diameter. These bearings went into my hubs and slid onto the spindles perfectly. Greased the bearings before installing and hoping for a good ling life from them. 17700



- BK1-150
by:

882076



- BK1-150
by:

877856



- BK1-150
by:

Ok, do yourself a favor and make sure you check both inner and outer bearing numbers PRIOR to ordering. Changed my boat trailer bearings. Took outer bearing out, took number off of bearing and ordered kit. Kit seal was too small because inner bearing was larger than outer bearing. This may be common but this was my first time. Called customer service and Geoffrey was very helpful. Had to check a couple of other things and he gave me his extension so i could get back to him. Called back and left a message and he returned my call. EXCELLENT customer service. Thanks! 870850



- BK1-150
by: 08/27/2020

Good bearings and good price 869715



- BK1-150
by:

It came quick and a great fit. Thank y ou! 867419



- BK1-150
by:

As normal, the order was placed effortlessly and received prior to my expected date:) Product all shiny and ready for lube. This kit is a spare kit for my folding motorcycle trailer to make life easy for my wife when I tow the motorcycles:) Trips will be pleasant now for my wife:) 866963



- BK1-150
by:

860519



- BK1-150
by:

The original order I had done not all the parts were available in the time I needed. I called and talked with Justin he was very helpful in getting me what part of my order you had and he made sure it got shipped in a timely manner I still need the other parts which I will order when available thank you 855705



- BK1-150
by:

Rodger was a complete gentleman and very professional he found my previous purchase understood what was going on and quickly found the parts that I need it an expedited them to me I have locked in his information because I know I'll break something else LOL and I'd rather deal with him your company could use a lot more Rodgers in it 853432



- BK1-150
by:

Another great experience purchasing from etrailer! Always the rite parts, the rite price and thorough start to finish communication. Thanks again. 848862



- BK1-150
by:

Ordered wheel bearings for my trailer and first of all I had no Idea where I would find the help to find the right parts. etrailer helped me and I installed the parts sent and they worked like a charm. Back to full use and working well this past year. Not only did they send the part but also provided tips and techniques to remove the old and replace the new. For an weekend mechanic, they gave me the help I need to do the job quickly and safely. 852667



- BK1-150
by:

Arrived early and fit perfect 844844



- BK1-150
by:

This bearing kit matched up perfectly to replace a set of worn out ones that were in my 2010 Jayco popup trailer. Sizing is spot-on for the Dexter axle that it's currently being used on. Glad that etrailer had everything ready to go in a single package, which made everything pretty easy. 828857



- BK1-150
by:

Good product. Logged over 2,000 miles last year on the set. Just replaced with another set 2 weeks ago no issues just did. One thing to note is the washer with the flat bottom will not fit over my spindles. Not a big deal just reuse washer I have. 827486



- BK1-150
by:

Every order arrives on time! Great serv ice! 825211



- BK1-150
by:

E-trailer is my new go to company for bearings and truck accessories. They carry good quality products and shipments are fast and reliable. 809516



- BK1-150
by:

One of the most important things was the courtesy that I received from this company. The product was as advertised and arrived on time as promised. It has been a year now with no problems whatsoever. 809492


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Bearing and Seal Kit for 2004 Kendon Motorcycle Trailer
    My research indicates that grease seal part 125255UC has an outer diameter of 1.980-inches and this correlates with the hubs that use bearing # L44649. The seal part most often used with inner/outer bearing L44649 is seal part # 10-9 which has an inner diameter of 1.50-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches so bearing kit # BK1-150 that you referenced should do it. You can confirm the seal size by measuring a spindle at the point where the seal rides (point B in the linked image)...
    view full answer...
  • Dexter P-12 SLR Bearing Kit Recommendation
    The correct bearing kit for the Dexter P-12 SLR trailer axle is the Bearing Kit part # BK1-150. This kit will contain both sets of bearing and seals need for your Dexter P-12 axle. I have attached an installation video for your review.
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings for a Trailer
    We have a few bearing kits that could potentially work for your utility trailer, but we first need to determine what you have on your trailer so that we can pick out the correct parts. What you would need to do is remove a current hub and get the numbers off of the bearings, or you can use a dial or digital caliper to measure the spindle of your trailer axles where the bearings and seal ride. With that info we can pick out the correct bearings/seal. I attached a picture that shows...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for a 2007 Pace Trailer
    The inner and outer bearings should have a part number stamped on them. The grease seal typically has a number stamped on the rubber, as well. If you cannot find the number on the seal, the inner diameter of the seal can be used to find a replacement. See picture to the right of a typical bearing and grease seal with the part number showing. We offer kits that include the inner and outer bearing, inner and outer race, grease seal, and cotter pin. See the links to the bearing kits at right.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit for Dexter Axle with 2,200 lb Capacity
    I reached out to Dexter and they confirmed that you have a 2,200 lb axle. This means the correct bearing kit you need is part # BK1-150.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for EZ Loader Bearing Kit 300-020885
    The EZ Loader bearing kit 300-020885 contains bearings for a BT8 spindle so the kit you'd need is the part # BK1-150.
    view full answer...
  • The Washer from TruRyde Bearing Kit # BK1-150 Does not Fit on the Spindle
    The tang washer included with the TruRyde Bearing Kit, # BK1-150, was designed to work with EZ Lube spindles. Easy lube spindles have a flattened portion on the threads (see photo) so they can use a tang washer to hold the nut in place. Non-EZ Lube spindles will have a hole through the threads and use a cotter pin to hold the nut in place, rather than a tang washer. If your spindle does not have a flattened section on the threads, but has the grease fitting on the end, then you may...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Replacement Bearings And Seals For The Dexter P-12 Model SLR Axle SN:D2082742
    The correct bearing kit for the Dexter P-12 SLR trailer axle serial number D2082742 is the Bearing Kit part # BK1-150. This kit will contain both sets of bearing and seals need for your Dexter P-12 axle. I have attached an installation video for your review.
    view full answer...
  • Should There Be a Washer on Trailer Spindle Between Spindle Nut and Outer Bearing
    There really should be a flat washer between the outer bearing of your hub and the nut that holds it on. The washer protects the back side of the bearing from the edges and points on the back side of the spindle nut. The Washer For 1 inch Spindle, # SW1000, is typically used on spindles that have a castle nut, like # 165686, and a cotter pin, # 165649. A D washer, # 5-23, would be used on a spindle that has a flat side and uses the same castle nut and cotter pin setup. A Tongue...
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  • Bearing Set Needed for a Dexter Torflex Axle with 4 Bolt Pattern Hub on a 1995 Dutchman Trailer
    From the information I have, you have selected the correct bearing kit, # BK1-150, for your Dexter Torflex axle. All of the 4 bolt pattern Torflex axles use the # R104BTREZ, EZ lube spindles. To be sure you can measure the spindle. Your spindle should measure 1.06 inches diameter at both the inner and outer bearing surface and 1.50 inches at the seal bearing surface. If this is the case the BK1-150 bearing kit is the correct kit for your axle and hub. I have linked a video that shows...
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  • Need Correct Bearing Kit for Dexter 2990 lb Axle On a 2009 Pace American Cargo Trailer
    Yes, I spoke to our local Pace trailer dealer and they were very helpful. Your trailer has a 3,500 pound Dexter axle under it that is de-rated to 2990 pounds because of the spring placement on the axle. This is the case most of the time for enclosed trailers. I have listed the bearing, race and seal part numbers below for you. Bearing Inner # L68149 Bearing Outer # L44649 Race Inner # L68111 Race Outer # L44610 Grease Seals # RG06-050
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Trailer Hub with Bearings L44649 Inner and Outer
    Most likely the part # BK1-150 will work well for you. This kit has the same bearings as what you have but to determine if the seal is correct you will need to measure your current one since the number you listed doesn't match. If the seal on your hub rides on a bearing surface that measures 1.50 inches in diameter this kit will match what you have perfectly.
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  • Recommendation for Top Quality Trailer Hub Bearings
    Here at etrailer we sell Redline and TruRyde trailer hub bearings. Both companies produce quality products that receive great reviews from our customers. If I can be of further assistance, please don't hesitate to send me an email.
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  • Need Bearing Kit for Trailer with L44649 Bearings and Seal 46750
    The seal included with bearing kit # BK1-150 is as 10-60 seal. Its inner diameter is 1.5 inches and its outer diameter is 1.987. From what I could find on the seal you have it measures 1.25 inches inner and 1.983 inches outer. So instead of using the seal in the kit you would use # 34823 for one seal or # RG06-010 for a pair. The kit includes a tang washer with that little piece that sticks up. that piece will get folded down into a gap between two "posts" on the castle nut (instead...
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  • Trailer Grease Seal to Replace 127194TB
    The part you referenced 127194TB is a double-lip seal with an inner diameter of 1.274-inches and an outer diameter of 1.983-inches. The available seal nearest to those dimensions that we offer is part # RG06-010, which is a double-lip seal sold as a pair. Its outer diameter is 1.983-inches and its inner diameter is 1.249-inches. These have a spring to maintain a good seal around the spindle.
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  • Locating Replacement Bearing Kit for 2003 Jayco Qwest Camper
    In order to find the right replacement bearing kit for your Jayco Qwest 8U Pop-Up Camper you will need to pull one of the hubs. Once you have the hub off the trailer remove the inner and outer bearings and check for a number that should be stamped right on the inside of them. If you cannot read the numbers then you can also take a few measurements along the spindle where the bearings sit with a digital caliper like # 301-17068. I have attached an image that shows where these measurements...
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  • Bearings and Brake Assembly Recommendation for 1999 Coleman Utah Popup
    Since we know your brake assemblies are 10 inch by 2-1/4 inches wide we basically know you have 3,500 lb axles. The easiest solution for needing new shoes is to replace the assemblies as it will cost the same, be much less hassle determining correct parts, easier install, and you get all new components. So for that you'd want the part # AKEBRK-35R for the right hand side and part # AKEBRK-35L for the left hand side. Then for a bearing kit you'd want the part # BK2-100 and you'd be set.
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  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Hub with Bearings L44649
    The Bearing Buddy you would want would be the # BB1980A-SS or # BB1980A since you have bearings of L44649 inner and outer.
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  • How to determine the correct bearings for Trailer Bearing Replacement
    To determine the correct bearings for your trailer hubs you will need to supply some more information. The more information you can find, for the list below, the more likely we will be able to find the correct parts. Part numbers form the inner and outer bearings on the other side of the trailer Part number from the bearing seals Type of trailer axle Weight capacity of the trailer axle Trailer hub part number Wheel mounting hole pattern Diameter of the inner bearing surface on...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Grease Cap for Trailer
    You will want to use a dial caliper or micrometer to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer to determine what size cap would be needed. Check out the picture I attached that shows this measurement being taken on a hub. I attached a link to all the grease caps we offer, once you know what size you need check out the link I attached to see all the sizes we offer. If your hub has L44649 inner and outer bearing most likely you would need the # RG04-040 that is...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit For 1998 Coleman Cheyenne Pop Up Camper
    For your 1998 Coleman Cheyenne pop up camper, the Bearing Kit, L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings, 10-60 Seal # BK1-150 is the correct fit based on the info you gave me. If your spindles didn't have a washer, you can add it or not. Some axles don't use washers and this kit comes with the d-shaped washer with the holder for the cotter pin for the castle nut. That washer goes between the outer bearing and the nut as you mentioned. When you install these, you will want to use a bearing packer...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for a 2016 Triton LT WC Trailer
    Thank you for your VIN. I was able to use this and determine that you need the Bearing Kit part # BK1-150. This kit has everything that you need to rebuild one hub so you will need two per axle. If you don't already have a bearing packer and grease you can use both part # PTW1218 and part # L11404.
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  • How to Identify Replacement Bearings & Seals for Magic Tilt Boat Trailer
    The best way to confirm the correct replacement wheel bearings and seals for your 1999 Magic Tilt boat trailer is to pull one of the hubs and note the inner and outer bearing numbers and seal number. You can then directly search on those part numbers to find replacements. Trailer makers do alternate parts sometimes so even if you have the owner's manual and it says the trailer uses bearings X and Y, they may not be what is in the hubs. It is always best to check the existing parts. We...
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  • How To Find Replacement Bearings for a Snow Bear Utility Trailer
    I would love to help but we don't have any bearing or seal information for specific trailers. This is just not information that the manufactures release to the public. If you want to find the correct replacement bearings and seals you will have to get your hands dirty, there is no way around this. If you absolutely don't want to rip apart the hubs/drums and read the bearing numbers or measure the spindle using the attached article then there is one other option and that is to look for...
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  • What Washer and Castle Nut Do I Need For 1 Inch EZ Lube Spindles
    If you have a EZ Lube spindle then you would use a tang washer like the one that comes in the kit part # BK1-150. You do not need a groove in the spindle to use the tang washer because it installs inside the castle nut on the end of your spindle. I have attached an installation video for your reference. If you do not have a castle nut you can use Trailer Spindle Nut 1" part # 165686.
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  • How to Identify Correct Replacement Bearings, Races & Seals for 1990 Sea Lion Boat Trailer
    Trailer makers unfortunately do not usually maintain records of the smaller components parts such as bearings that are used in the manufacture of their trailers but we do carry a broad assortment of replacement bearings, races and grease seals shown on the linked page. The best way to select your new bearings is to pull one of your hubs and remove its inner and outer bearing and grease seal to obtain those items' part numbers. Then it is a simple matter of searching our site. You can...
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  • Bearing Kit for 97 Dutchman 801 with Dexter BT8 Spindle
    We really appreciate your business and I am glad that you were happy with our service. Dexter recommends Bearing Kit, # BK1-100, for the BT8 spindle. This kit includes L44643 inner and outer bearings, 34823 grease seal with inner diameter of 1.249 inches, cotter pin, and two races. The L44649 bearings that you mentioned uses the same race and are very close in diameter to the L44643.
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  • Bearing Kit For Dexter EZ Lube Axle That Uses L44649 Bearings
    The bearing kit we offer that uses the L44649 bearings is part # BK1-150. This kit is designed for 3,500-lb axles and it includes the bearings, races, seal, cotter pin, and an EZ Lube spindle washer. This bearing kit is designed to fit spindles that use 1.063 inch ID inner and outer bearings.
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  • Determining Correct Bearing Kit for 1-1/16 Inch Trailer Spindle
    A tapered spindle's compatible bearings will have different inner diameters. This is because the bearing seat locations will differ in terms of their diameter as the spindle goes out from the axle. A straight spindle will not have these tapered dimensions and will use bearings with the same inner diameter. The easiest way to determine which bearings are used on your trailer axle is to take the hub off and check the numbers that should be stamped into the bearings themselves. If you cannot...
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  • Replacement Trailer Bearing Kit for Dexter P-11 Model SLR Axle on 2000 Jayco Quest 8U
    Unfortunately there isn't a database of that information. The P-11 SRL only clarifies the plant the axle was made in. Based on the model, it looks like a smaller capacity axle, but to confirm fit, you will need to pull a hub. Then you have two options to get the replacement bearings: -You can look at the numbers printed on the grease seal, and the face of the inner and outer bearing which does require disassembling the hub. -You can leave the hub intact and measure the spindle...
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