1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 1.719 Inch I.D.
  6. 2.565 Inch O.D.
Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles - Qty 2

Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles - Qty 2

Item # RG06-050
lowest price pledge
Our Price: $6.02
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Orders above $99 qualify for Free Shipping
Shipping Weight: 0.14 lbs
Quantity: 
In Stock, Ships Today
zoom in icon
zoom out icon
Comment field cannot be left empty.
Name field cannot be left empty.

Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.

Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.

Product Images

Customer Photos

Replacement grease seals. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles - Qty 2 part number RG06-050 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (544)
  • Q & A (225)
  • Videos (3)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-050

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.719 Inch I.D.
  • 2.565 Inch O.D.
  • etrailer

Replacement grease seals. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in.


Features:

  • Replaces worn or damaged grease seals to help maintain optimal performance of bearings
  • Helps keep moisture out and grease in with double-lip design


Specs:

  • Inner diameter: 1.719"
  • Outer diameter: 2.565"
  • Quantity: (2) 10-19 grease seals


Inner Diameter Outer Diameter Applications
1.719" 2.565" 3,500-lb Axles

Seal Cross Reference
Dexter Transcom National NOK Chicago Rawhide
010-019-00 171255TB 473336 AD2548EO CR 17144



RG06-050 AxleTek Double Lip Grease Seal 2.565" Outer Diameter - 3,500-lb axles - Qty 2

Same as 158800, GS-1719DL, 58846, and 171255





Video of Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles - Qty 2

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles - Qty 2 - RG06-050

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (544 Customer Reviews)

Replacement grease seals. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in.

- RG06-050
by:

Received the grease seals in very quick order and great condition. They were the correct seal and of high quality. 719633



- RG06-050
by:

No one in town had these and I had no good reference numbers off of the old seal - etrailer's customer service reps helped me match up a new seal based on my axle make and bearing size and these are a perfect fit. 115904


Comments
Thanks for taking the time to follow up with me. Ive only put a few hundred miles of use on the trailer but everything is working great. Ive actually recommended etrailer to my father, a friend of mine and anyone at work who would listen made easier by the fact that I had everything I ordered shipped to my job instead of home. Barring an emergency situation that requires an immediate solution you have my business in the future.
WT H - 02/20/2015

9630

- RG06-050
by:

Been using the seals on my boat trailer for about 6 years now. I change them out and repack my bearings every year. So far they have held up very well. 571504



- RG06-050
by:

Products fit and work as they should and your help and service on the telephone was great. Thanks 575409



- RG06-050
by:

Ordering was quick and easy, so was installation. Fit as advertised and was reasonably priced. Would order from etrailer.com again. Completely satisfied. 561688



- RG06-050
by:

Great Product Exactly as Shown 661520



- RG06-050
by:

etrailer is a great resource. The original manufacturer (large, multinational) of my boat trailer never returned my calls and their website was less than helpful if I was not buying a new boat trailer. A few minutes on etrailers website and a couple of quick calls to etrailer's help desk and I was good to go. Parts arrived sooner than I expected and fit perfectly. This is the second or third time I have used them for my variety of trailer types, and each time I have had a good experience. 382054



- RG06-050
by:

Wow- etrailer is so much more reasonable pricing than others on this essential part for re-packing your bearings. In my case, this fit a Dexter 3500 lb axle drum. These new seals are exact OEM fit. The old seals popped out reasonably easy with a seal puller (don't try pulling it out all at once, work your way around the seal a bit and don't stab yourself when it pops free). There are fancy tools to install this seal but don't bother. A piece of 1x4 and a rubber mallet knocks it in easily and flat. 420084



- RG06-050
by:

Like others say great seal, good selection, fast delivery. I was a bit surprised at the E-Trailer packaging. I ordered 12 seals for 3 different SIZE trailers and all 12 were in ONE BAG. So some seals are VERY CLOSE in size to each other, like 2.33 x1.50 vs a 1.68. Needless to say you have to be a McGiver to be doing your own seals anyway, but I had to "Mike" each one and look for numbers on each & seperate for boat or Dune Buggy Trailers. Thats another thing, Taiwan & China ? And the numbers on these new seals are different than the standard Dexter Transcom National or NOK. Good thing my old seals had those numbers, these dont. Keep good NOTES ! Good Luck next owner if I sell. 114025



- RG06-050
by:

Installed these seals less than a year ago. I just finished repacking the bearings again, and when I pulled the drum off I was very surprised at the dirt these seals let get into the inner bearings. 571962



- RG06-050
by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos. 604452



- RG06-050
by:

The seals were an exact replacement for the wheels. Would have ordered the bearings also, but did not find the site until after the bearings had been ordered. Parts arrived in a timely manner and was able to complete the repair in a short time. Would recommend this site to anyone needing parts for their trailer. 198706



- RG06-050
by:

I have a 15 year old camping trailer that I am restoring.Since we are planning a trip from Indiana to Florida thru the Smokey Mountains I decided new brakes and bearings might be a good idea. I ordered these for my Dexter axle and had all the parts in 3 days. I had a small problem with a seal. I called and talked to a gentleman who answered my brake questions and sent me a new seal. Very knowledgeable, super helpful, and nice. The instructions and videos are very helpful too. 439881


Comments
Still rolling around just fine.
Jim - 10/06/2018

44357

- RG06-050
by:

Perfect replacement for my Eagle Ultra two axle utility trailer. Taps in easily if you tap gently in a cross like pattern. 225692



- RG06-050
by:

Fast shipping and perfect fit. Product videos very heipful. 756189



- RG06-050
by:

Great service! Brenden C did an excellent job of finding the right parts for my trailer and even upgraded the shipping at no extra cost. I highly recommend etrailer! 756083



- RG06-050
by:

All parts arrived quickly and fit perfect! I bought a used car trailer few months ago and brakes quit working. Pulled drums and needed new magnets, it was missing spring on one side, prior owner must have got some bad service. E-Trialer hooked me up with all the parts, also ordered hub seals and grease and repacked bearings. Thank you !!! 746869



- RG06-050
by:

The wheel bearing and races kit came in handy on our recent RV trip from Florida to Alaska and back. We traveled over 19,000 miles on our trip. On our way home when we were about 800 miles from home in Louisiana, the right rear wheel bearing went out on our 25' travel trailer. I had packed all the bearings before we left on our trip, but the bearings failed anyway. We were so thankful that we had that spare bearing set. After about 3 hours we were back on the road. 724510



- RG06-050
by:

Bearings and seals were in great shape and fit perfectly. On our next time out the wheel hubs were cool to the touch after a long time on the road. Would order again. 720555



- RG06-050
by:

Great Service....Ordered on a Sunday evening and had the new brakes, drums and wheels, all back on, along with new seals and wheel bearings repacked by Thursday Afternoon. I have not adjusted the brakes yet because the weather turned bad today. With good weather, I will take the 5th Wheel for a test drive to check everything out. I will update this review at that time. Note: During the process, I found that I had a wiring problem(low voltage at the brake wires) which I fixed. Suggestion: Since you have to cut the wires to the Electromaget, just test the voltage at each wheel to insure that all is well. 720702



- RG06-050
by:

Perfect fit 718967



- RG06-050
by:

Product for perfect and was excellent q uality 718288



- RG06-050
by:

EXCELLENT SERVICE/DELIVERY!!! etrailer sales representative Lori took the time to cancel my order due to my own negligence in ordering the wrong part. The correct part was ordered and delivered in three business days. The Customer service i receive is far from the Normal in this day and age. Great company. 714842



- RG06-050
by:

Great price and fast shipping 714827



- RG06-050
by:

Product as described. Delivered promptly 714767


28
549
Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?




  • Why etrailer.com?

    At etrailer.com we guarantee:
  • Highest quality trailer bearings races seals caps for the best price.

    Our Lowest Price Pledge ensures you will never overpay for the parts you need.
  • Real product know-how.

    We make sure that the products we sell are what we say they are, and that they work the way they are supposed to work. Get real advice from a real person who has the knowledge and expertise needed to solve your problem.
  • Most detailed, accurate trailer bearings races seals cap information available.

    Because we take providing accurate product information seriously, we take our own detailed product photos, demo videos and installation videos, as well as verify measurements, instructions, and vehicle fit information.
  • Installations, made easy.

    We love helping people and have the most highly-trained customer service, hands-on experience, step by step videos and installation instructions.
  • Fast shipping.

    Your order is automatically routed to get out of our warehouse and to your door as quickly as possible. Receive free shipping on orders over $99.
  • Personalized service for life.

    We provide one-on-one, personalized service from the ordering process through the life of your product.
  • Trusted since 1946.

    We've been serving customers since our parts store first opened in 1946 and continue to be recognized by our customers, our vendors and third parties for exceptional service.
  • Returns Policy

    Need to return an item? No problem. Please read our Returns Policy for more information.

Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
Sarah L
Expert Research:
Robert G
Expert Research:
Patrick B
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Expert Research:
Sarah H
Video Edited:
Zack K
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time. Let us know if anything is missing or if you have any questions.


Product Experts Available Now!
Call 800-298-8924