Grease Seal

Grease Seal

Item # 168233

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Grease Seal 2.332 Inch O.D. 168233
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  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.688 Inch I.D.
  • 2.332 Inch O.D.
  • Redline
Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Redline. Grease Seal part number 168233 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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  • Reviews (92)
  • Q & A (56)
  • Videos (2)
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Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 168233


I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
1.688 2.332 Unique #84 Hubs

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
-
168233TB
473317/47140
AF7616EO/AD2527EO
16657/16659





Video of Grease Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - 168233

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (92 Customer Reviews)


- 168233
by:

Part is correct...Delivery time exceeded my expectations..Ordered Saturday and received product Monday. I will be ordering all of my trailer/towing items from etrailer.com 346580



- 168233
by:

On an online forum an etrailer employee suggested a replacement seal for my older Ranger Trail . I ordered it and it fit perfectly. 440510



- 168233
by:

GOOD PRODUCT IT WAS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR. FINDING THE RIGHT SEAL WAS A PROBLEM BUT ETRAILER GIVES YOU ALL THE INFORMATION YOU NEED TO GET THE RIGHT PART THAT FITS. THE QUALITY IS ALWAYS THE BEST AVAILABLE AND THE PRICE IS FARE. 362301



- 168233
by:

Seals worked fine. Got them a day earlier than expected. They were not as tall as the ones I replaced but I don't expect any leaks from these. Two out of 4 of the old ones were leaking grease into my drums. I will be ordering from etrailer again. 380171



- 168233
by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!! 282937



- 168233
by:

Great product, fast shipping 705443



- 168233
by:

fit perfect , good price 699890



- 168233
by:

A lot better seal then I have been using 698745



- 168233
by:

Perfect fit . 695570



- 168233
by:

Fast shipping...Good parts thanks 690313



- 168233
by:

The grease seals fit perfectly. I’ve driven over 150 miles and no leaks. etrailer saved the day. Before ordering from them I had made about 8 trips to various auto parts stores, buying and returning seals. One store had the part number for the correct seal and still sold me a seal that didn’t fit. My trailer is at a 1998 model and etrailer had the seal. 670119



- 168233
by:

Very good product, the sales staff was very helpful in helping me to find the right parts. 651467



- 168233
by:

Perfect fit and function! 639068



- 168233
by:

worked great so glad for all Vanessa's help she was great!!! 619979



- 168233
by:

Everything I needed was easy to identify and order through the etrailer.com site, and the order arrived quickly. The information and how-to videos were very helpful, and assisted me in getting my project completed easily. I wouldn't hesitate to use the site again, or to recommend to anyone needing parts for their trailer. 522480



- 168233
by:

I was very satisfied with the products I received.The question and answer segment was very helpful in making sure I ordered the right part, thanks again. 505763



- 168233
by:

Fit Perfectly, just what I needed. 499612



- 168233
by:

Received as expected. Very prompt and professional service. Thanks for the follow up. 481422



- 168233
by:

Good service, good products- will use a gain. 479527



- 168233
by:

So far everything is good with the bearing seals 477441



- 168233
by:

Fast shipping, excellent customer service team. 472096



- 168233
by:

Always fun and easy to work with ! 467740


Comments

Awesome, the best place on the planet for al your trailer needs

Timothy - 01/16/2019

48609

- 168233
by:

Hard to find item 458722



- 168233
by:

Used on a boat trailer. 456860



- 168233
by:

Very helpful at finding the correct part. Will use again when I need boat trailer parts. 448208



- 168233
by:

Great price, prompt delivery and great product. 435083



- 168233
by:

Exactly what I needed. Once I typed in the bearing part # I had I was able to find the correct seals I needed. I also found out what axle spindle # I have. 414200



- 168233
by:

I received the correct product, on time and of good Quality. The price was excellent compared to local sources. Also the one part not common and was difficult to find on local shelves. 399604



- 168233
by:

These were used for replacement on a boat trailer. They fit perfectly and installation was a breeze. Arrived quickly. 389593



- 168233
by:

Item delivered as expected. 386661



- 168233
by:

Item was not exact replacement fo OWM seal, but critical deminsions were correct. Installed and awaiting further use. 380614



- 168233
by:

Needed these seals to finish rebuilding the axles on my boat trailer. Just finished the job I started and the parts I ordered from etrailer fit perfectly. 378099



- 168233
by:

fits perfect. Thanks for the fast turna round 370537



- 168233
by:

etrailer had exactly what I needed and shipping was fast etrailer is your one stop shop for all your trailer needs 370061



- 168233
by:

Great service and the right part. 369950



- 168233
by:

Great product and price. For 1990 stratos boat trailer 368163



- 168233
by:

Worked great. 367211



- 168233
by:

Good quality, correct size. 366460



- 168233
by:

Excellent service. Would order from aga in. 366491



- 168233
by:

Perfect for my boat trailer! Super fast shipping! Thanks!! 356899



- 168233
by:

Exactly what I needed. Great price and fast shipping! Thank you!! I will definitely do business here again. 332341


Comments

Doing great so far! Thanks

Dan - 01/14/2018

32958

- 168233
by:

Seal looks good quality fit well 315813



- 168233
by:

The product was as described, pictured, exactly the part I needed. The surprise was this part was very reasonably priced. I have ordered other parts from this company because of their courteous & professional help, the easy and expansive website and immediate assistance when I have called with additional assistance. 311594



- 168233
by:

ETrailer.com carries part not easily purchased locally for old trailers. 305847



- 168233
by:

Still going strong. Was the right part. Took a long time to install the first time since I was a newbie but should be faster from now on. 303732



- 168233
by:

Great selections and fast shipping! 303405



- 168233
by:

I had a non standard axle, so had to call and verify bearings. Was very pleased with the service and that the person on the other end was very easy to understand. Shipment was fast and the parts fit. The price was very competitive. 290298



- 168233
by:

The trailer bearing seal was as described, fit properly and functions as expected. 278051



- 168233
by:

I got what I ordered...quick. Had a small issue when ordering on line. It can be confusing when checking out to confirm that the correct products and quantities are included in the order. You push the checkout button and hope the confirmation is what you want. Well, in this instance, only one of the pair of seals I wanted was in the order. I ordered on Friday after hours and immediately sent an email to request a correction to add the second item. I called on Saturday and reached the recording to advise I could speak to someone during normal business hours. So I called again Monday morning and was told by Nicki that my order had already been shipped - efficient! Nicki was good enough to waive the shipping for the second seal, and both seals arrived in separate packages the same day. Everything worked out. Thanks etrailer.com. I might suggest that the purchaser have at least some opportunity to revise an order before it ships if the confirmation does not have what was desired. I know the shopping cart page is supposed to provide this opportunity before checkout, but I've occasionally done stuff that doesn't translate to following screens - like in this instance. All in all, I would definitely use etrailer.com again. 262767



- 168233
by:

These folks deliver exactly what you order, and send it out quickly. I recommend this site. This is the second site I have ever recommended, and I am 72. 258945


Comments

It is all you could expect. Great seals. thx

Mike M - 06/12/2017

24925
50
92
Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Grease Seal for Spindle that is 1.68 Inches in Diameter
  • There are grease seals with inner diameters of 1.687 inches, # 168255TB, or 1.688 inches, # 168233, that would be a better fit. If the outer diameters match the inner hub bore diameter then you can use one of them instead. Seal # 168255TB has an inner diameter of 1.687 inches and outer diameter of 2.561 inches. Seal # 168233 has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and outer diameter of 2.332 inches. The seals in set # RG06-050 have an outer diameter of 2.565 inches so that would...
    view full answer...

  • Inner and Outer Bearing and Grease Seal for Older Trailer
  • We carry bearings, races and a seal that are very, very close to your measurements but not exact. For example, the inside bearing we carry is # L68149 and it has a 1.378" inner diameter; the correct race for this is # L68111. For the outer bearing we carry # L44649 which has a 1.063" inner diameter and the matching race is # L44610. Finally there is the grease seal, for which we carry # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688". You could get all of these parts together...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Trailer Grease Seal for an NOK AD2527E Seal on a Boat Mate Trailer
  • To replace your NOK AD2527E seal you can use # 168233. It has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches. Based on what I could find on the NOK AD2527E the inner diameter is the same and the outer diameter is 2.328 inches. So it will be a tight fit but no other seal is even close.
    view full answer...

  • E Z Loader Boat Trailer Bearings and Seals Recommendation
  • Your trailer has axles rated for 3,500 lbs. The inner bearing for that trailer is an L68149 and the outer is L44649. Bearing kit # BK2-100 has the correct bearings and races but you would need a different seal, # 168233, available separately.
    view full answer...

  • Dimensions and Part Number Cross-Reference for Grease Seal 168233
  • Grease seals are best matched by part number but when this is not possible measuring inner and outer diameters to the nearest thousandth of an inch (1.234-inches for example) is necessary to ensure a proper seal at the spindle and hub bore. A digital caliper like # 301-17068 is the best tool for measurement at this small scale. The seal included in hub part # T1721400042 is double-lip seal part # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688-inches and an outer diameter of 2.332-inches. I...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Wheel Bearings for an EZ Loader Boat Trailer
  • Based on the VIN your EZ Loader trailer was built at the Custom plant in Arkansas. The inner bearing for that trailer is an L68149 and the outer is L44649. Bearing kit # BK2-100 has the correct bearings and races but you would need a different seal, # 168233, available separately.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearings, Seals, and Races for Unique #84 Spindle/Hub
  • According to the part numbers you gave it looks like you need outer bearing # L44649 with the matching race # L44610, inner bearing # L68149 with the matching race # L68111, and then the grease seal # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688" and outer diameter of 2.332" which fits unique #84 spindle/hub combinations. This seal has the same dimensions of a 16667 seal that is commonly used on a vehicle. The bearing kit # BK2-100 that you referenced has all of the bearings and races...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hubs for Rear Axle on DHM Trailer
  • The 1.063 inch inner diameter that you mentioned corresponds to the # L44649 bearing. For a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern hub that uses the inner and outer bearing # L44649, I recommend the etrailer.com Idler Hub # AKIHUB-545-2-2K or for a hub and drum you can use # AKHD-545-2-EZ-2. These hubs are designed for 2,000 pound axles and the bearings, races and grease seal are included. These particular hub assemblies use the Grease Seal # 10-9, which has an inner diameter of 1.50 inches and...
    view full answer...

  • Thickness of Redline Grease Seal # 168233
  • You are correct that the Redline Grease Seal # 168233 is the closest option we have to your existing AD2527E seal. The thickness of this particular seal is 0.38 inches. I have attached a short video demonstration on this grease seal that you can also check out.
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  • Replacement Boat Trailer Seal for a NOK AD2527E Grease Seal
  • The Grease Seal part # 168233 has a double lip so it can be used on a boat trailer and be submersed under water, yes. This is also the correct replacement for the NOK AD2527E Grease Seal that you have now.
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  • Where to Measure Spindle to Find the Correct Seal
  • You are correct that for the Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE1980KIT the 1.72" is the diameter of where the oil seal rides and would not work for a 1.68" diameter. Oil is often used on higher capacity axles and we do not offer an oil seal that measures 1.68". We do have grease seals with an inner diameter of 1.68", part # 168233; if yours is a grease hub and you are using oil that may be why it is leaking but if the hubs are also full of water that can also cause leaking. I recommend...
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  • How to Install the Grease Seal Part # 168233
  • The rubber lip on the Grease Seal part # 168233 will face towards the trailer which means the open end will face towards the bearing. The installation process can be seen in the attached review video. In order to remove the old seal you will want to use the Seal Puller part # PTW1219. I have attached a video that shows how the puller is used as well.
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  • Replacement Brake Assembly Recommendation for 1997 MasterCraft 20 ft Boat
  • Since your trailer has 10 inch by 2-1/4 inch brake assemblies currently all of the assemblies you mentioned are going to work. I would go with the sefl-adjusting part numbers # DMSB24428M and # DMSB24429M though since you mentioned you were interested in that option. The matching Titan assemblies are part # T4423500 for the left hand side and part # T4423400 for the right hand side. Based on the seal dimensions you listed the part # 168233 is the correct replacement. We don't...
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  • Recommended Replacement For Napa Trailer Grease Seal 16667
  • The grease seal we offer with the same dimensions as the Napa 16667 seal you mentioned is part # 168233. This seal has an I.D of 1.688 inches and an O.D of 2.332 inches
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  • How to Measure to Get a Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal
  • The number 8752 that you referenced doesn't match up with any seal numbers that we carry, but there is a way to determine what replacement seal you would need. You will want to measure where the seal rides on your axle spindle with a dial or digital caliper to get an exact measurement and then you will want to measure the bore of the hub so that you know the inner and outer dimensions for a replacement seal. Check out the picture I attached for more info. Once you get those dimensions...
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  • Replacement Seal # 10-36 Recommendation for a Hub with Bearings 25580/LM67048
  • The correct grease seal that you would need is Grease Seals 10-36 pair, part # RG06-070. If you wanted a kit that had a replacement 25580 and 67048 bearings plus the 10-36 seal you would want a Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal, part # BK3-300. I attached a link to an FAQ article on wheel bearing backing as well as a video of how its done below for you to check out.
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  • Replacement Hub, Bearings, Races, and Seals for Trailer Hub with H-1377 Bearing
  • First, it does sound like, based on the measurement and information you have provided, that race # L68110, is correct since its outer diameter is 2.327 inches. This race is associated with bearing # L68149 which has an inner diameter of 1.378 inches and fits a number 84 spindle. On these spindles the diameter where the seal goes is 1.73 inches such as # R40484. The seal should be a tight fit. I once had a heck of a time pulling a hub off of a trailer that was held on by the seal only!...
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  • Replacement Race # L68110 Availability and Compatibility with the # L68149 Bearing
  • The information I have indicates that the # L68149 bearing is compatible with a # L68110 race. The L68110 race is most commonly used in boat trailers and the # L68111 is most commonly used in land based trailers. They both take the same bearing, # L68149, but use different seals and the installation surface on the hubs are different dimensions, as you have noted. Most commonly the # L68110 race is associated with the # 168233 grease seal and the # L68111 race is most commonly associated...
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  • What is Difference Between Bearing Seal NOK # AD2527E and # AD2527EO
  • We're not sure what the O stands for, in anything, but to make sure this bearing seal works for you you can take a few quick measurements. You will need to measure the outside diameter of your existing seal, or the inside diameter of the mounting surface for the seal in the hub. You will also need an accurate measurement of the spindle at the seal surface. I have posted a photo to show the dimensions you will need to measure. A dial caliper will provide an accurate measurement to determine...
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  • Recommendation For Replacement Grease Seals That Fit Bearing LM67048 And Bearing LM11949
  • Based on your information, I recommend replacement grease seal, Item # 168233. This fits your bearings, Item # LM67048 and Item # LM11949. You will only need one seal per hub.
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  • How to Measure to Determine the Correct Grease Seal for a Trailer Spindle
  • The # 168233 Double Lip Grease Seal has an outside diameter of 2.332 inches and an inside diameter of 1.688 inches. This seal is not compatible with a AF2527E seal with a O.D 2.312, because, even though the O.D. id very close, the inner diameter of the is seal is 1.750 inches and would not be the correct fit for the spindle diameter. You will need to take an accurate measurement of the outside diameter of your existing seal, or the inside diameter of the mounting surface for the seal...
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  • Is There A Bearing Kit for L68149 Inner Bearing, L44649 Outer Bearing, and 168233 Seal
  • I was able to find the seal on your trailer in my research. The seal that comes in the bearing kit # BK2-100 has different inner and outer diameters that the existing seal on your trailer. The inner and outer diameters of your seal are not common, and therefore we do not have a kit that contains the bearings and seal for your trailer. Since we do not have a kit, you will either want to order the bearings and seals individually, or order the kit for the bearings and the correct seals additionally....
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  • Replacement for National 473317 Grease Seal
  • According to my research the correct replacement for your National 473317 grease seal is Grease Seal # 168233 which has a 1.688" inner diameter and 2.332" outer diameter. The # 58846 grease seal that comes with Bearing Kit # BK2-100 has a 1.719" inner diameter and 2.565" outer diameter.
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  • Which Grease Seal is Associated with L68149 Bearing and L68110 Race on a Boat Trailer Hub
  • When the L68149 bearing is paired with the L68111 race, the 10-19 grease seal is used. However when the same bearing is used with the L68110 race on a boat trailer, the # 168233 seal is usually used. You can verify this by using a digital caliper to measure the hub bore (inside diameter) where the seal would sit and the surface of the spindle where the inside diameter of the seal would ride. The hub bore should measure 2.332 inches and the surface of the spindle that the seal would...
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  • Replacement Double Lip Seal for Boat Trailer with 473317 Seals
  • You would want to go with a double lip seal since your trailer is a boat trailer that will be submerged underwater. For that you would want the part # 168233 which is a double lip seal in the exact dimensions as you would need. We don't have a Bearing Buddy brand seal but this one will work well for you.
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  • Replacement Hub/Drum Assembly With 25580 Bearing for Use on Mobile Home Axle
  • Mobile home axles are designed for single-use, as when transporting the trailer to its permanent location. These often use uncommon bearings that are not readily available. In your case we do offer bearing # 25580 and we also offer hubs that use this part. The link provided will let you see all such hub/drum assemblies. You will need to know your outer bearing to match this as well. Filters on the page allow you to select that attribute, as well as the axle capacity, bolt pattern, drum...
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace AD2527E
  • To replace your NOK AD2527E seal you can use # 168233. It has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches. Based on what I could find on the NOK AD2527E the inner diameter is the same and the outer diameter is 2.328 inches. So it will be a slightly tight fit but no other seal is even close.
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  • Trailer Grease Seal Recommendation for Inner Diameter 1.7 inch and Outer Diameter 2.33 inch
  • The closest grease seal that will work for you is the part # 168233. This has an outer diameter of 2.33 inches and an inner diameter of 1.688. Since the inner diameter is a rubber portion I would stretch if needed to match yours that is only a hair larger. For dust covers the only thing we have that matches the size you need is Bearing Buddies part # BB1810.
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  • Grease Seal Leaking On 1995 Ranger Boat Trailer
  • If you have installed the # 168233 grease seal and you have Bearing Buddies installed and it still leaks, you may have used too much grease and actually blown out the seal. Often times, we find that is the problem when folks are using Bearing Buddies. You will need to check the dimensions of your hub and spindle to make sure you have the correct size. You can use a digital caliper like part # PTW80157 and get as accurate as possible measurement. The inside diameter of the # 168233...
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  • Replacement Trailer Seal for a NOK 2527EO
  • The Grease Seal # 168233 that you referenced is listed in our cross reference chart as an exact replacement for the NOK AD2527EO. If the outer diameter and inner diameter match what your hub calls for they should work just fine. If the diameter of the portion of your spindle where the seal rides is right at 2.125 inches and the inner diameter of where the seal fits in the hub is 3.376 inches you would be just fine.
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Info for this part was:

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Video Edited:
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