1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Redline
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 2.332 Inch O.D.
  6. 1.688 Inch I.D.
Grease Seal

Grease Seal

Item # 168233
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Our Price: $10.35
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Shipping Weight: 0.04 lbs
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Grease Seal 2.332 Inch O.D. 168233
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Redline. Grease Seal part number 168233 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 168233

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.332 Inch O.D.
  • 1.688 Inch I.D.
  • Redline


I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
1.688 2.332 Unique #84 Hubs

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
-
168233TB
473317/47140
AF7616EO/AD2527EO
16657/16659





Video of Grease Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - 168233

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (101 Customer Reviews)


- 168233
by:

Great product, fast shipping 705443



- 168233
by:

Took some searching from the sales lady but found the correct parts. Thanks for the effort! The trailer parts came within days. Faster than I expected. 881689



- 168233
by:

Seals were good quality fit perfectly! 866500



- 168233
by:

The product was great , fit perfectly,Took for ever to arrive 10 days, so I thought I might not have placed the order correctly so I re ordered them, the people at E Trailer caught the mistake and called me to verify that I really wanted two of the same product . So they are on there toes there at E Trailer. Will order from here again, but the shipping was slow. But it could have been the post office fault. 849494



- 168233
by:

Good product and fast shipping for the covid era. 847680



- 168233
by:

Couldn’t find what I needed locally. Went to etrailer.com, found it quickly, ordered it and received it in a little over a week. Quick and easy, exactly what I needed. 847646



- 168233
by:

All is working great still 827855



- 168233
by:

Perfect fit for my 89 trailer ,couldn’t find it anywhere else 804015



- 168233
by:

fast shipping and these people were great help finding the right parts highly recommend 748997



- 168233
by:

I ordered rims seals and bushings for my trailer all of them showed up much earlier than I anticipated in excellent condition and everything fit perfectly very happy with the service highly recommend this company 707976



- 168233
by:

fit perfect , good price 699890



- 168233
by:

A lot better seal then I have been using 698745



- 168233
by:

Perfect fit . 695570


Comments
They are holding up great
David - 08/30/2020

98066

- 168233
by:

Fast shipping...Good parts thanks 690313



- 168233
by:

The grease seals fit perfectly. I’ve driven over 150 miles and no leaks. etrailer saved the day. Before ordering from them I had made about 8 trips to various auto parts stores, buying and returning seals. One store had the part number for the correct seal and still sold me a seal that didn’t fit. My trailer is at a 1998 model and etrailer had the seal. 670119



- 168233
by:

Very good product, the sales staff was very helpful in helping me to find the right parts. 651467



- 168233
by:

Perfect fit and function! 639068


Comments
Still working perfect!
Byron S - 05/07/2020

75917

- 168233
by:

worked great so glad for all Vanessa's help she was great!!! 619979



- 168233
by:

Everything I needed was easy to identify and order through the etrailer.com site, and the order arrived quickly. The information and how-to videos were very helpful, and assisted me in getting my project completed easily. I wouldn't hesitate to use the site again, or to recommend to anyone needing parts for their trailer. 522480



- 168233
by:

I was very satisfied with the products I received.The question and answer segment was very helpful in making sure I ordered the right part, thanks again. 505763



- 168233
by:

Fit Perfectly, just what I needed. 499612



- 168233
by:

Received as expected. Very prompt and professional service. Thanks for the follow up. 481422



- 168233
by:

Good service, good products- will use a gain. 479527



- 168233
by:

So far everything is good with the bearing seals 477441



- 168233
by:

Fast shipping, excellent customer service team. 472096


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Ask the Experts about this Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Wheel Seal With 1.63 ID and 2.375 OD
    Based on the measurements you gave me it sounds like Grease Seal # 168233 that you referenced is the one you need. It's a double lip grease seal that has an Inner diameter of 1.688" and an Outer diameter of 2.332". The # 010-180-00 seal is another seal with an inner diameter of 1.68" and an outer diameter of 2.33" and also is a double lip seal. I know they are not the exact measurements you gave, but that is the closest size seal that we carry. That's also why it's important to measure...
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal for AD2528EO
    We have just what you need based on the dimensions you listed. The correct grease seal you need is the part # 168255TB which has outer diameter of 2.561 and an inner diameter of 1.687 inch.
    view full answer...
  • Ranger Trailer Cool Hub Replacement Grease Seal AD2527E
    The correct replacement grease seal for the AD2527E you listed is the part # 168233.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal Recommendation for 32372 with OD 2.325 and ID of 1.680
    Based on the dimensions you listed we have the part # 010-180-00 which would fit and work well. This has an outer diameter of 2.33 inch and an inner diameter of 1.68 inch like you need so it would work well.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Trailer Grease Seal that Inner Diameter 1.688 and Outer Diameter 2.328
    The thickness of the Redline Grease Seal # 168233 seal is 0.38. However, thickness is not always a dimension associated with picking out a suitable replacement seal. Typically it is the outer diameter and the inner bearing for picking out a replacement seal. Based on the NOK number and the dimensions you listed this is a match.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal for Old Boat Trailer with 2-5/16 OD and 1-11/16 ID
    Part # 168233, appears to be a close match to your existing grease seal with 2-5/16" (2.3125) OD and 1-11/16" (1.6875) ID. It has an ID of 1.688", OD of 2.332" and a thickness of 0.38". Although I wasn't able to cross reference the "TTO E938" number on your seal, based on the dimensions and information you provided, the # 168233 grease seal should work well for you. It's typically used on #84 hubs which have a capacity of 3,500 lbs. Because grease seals do not hold their shape very...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Boat Trailer Seal for a NOK AD2527E Grease Seal
    The Grease Seal part # 168233 has a double lip so it can be used on a boat trailer and be submersed under water, yes. This is also the correct replacement for the NOK AD2527E Grease Seal that you have now.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace AD2527E
    To replace your NOK AD2527E seal you can use # 168233. It has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches. Based on what I could find on the NOK AD2527E the inner diameter is the same and the outer diameter is 2.328 inches. So it will be a slightly tight fit but no other seal is even close.
    view full answer...
  • 2800lbs Axle Replacement Seal
    The trailer seal part # 168233 is the correct size based on your dimensions. Your seal may just be bad and in need of being replaced which is why water getting in.
    view full answer...
  • How To Determine Correct Replacement for Grease Seal 8752
    The correct way for you to determine the right replacement grease seal for your 8752 is actually by the inner diameter. Seal # 168233 does have a 2.332" outer diameter and a 1.688" inner diameter, which you will need to match in order for this seal to be the correct replacement. You mentioned the "spindle surface diameter" of 1.67 but I am not sure where you measured that from. If you take a look at Point B on the accompanying diagram I added you can see exactly where you need to measure...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Double Lip Seal for Boat Trailer with 473317 Seals
    You would want to go with a double lip seal since your trailer is a boat trailer that will be submerged underwater. For that you would want the part # 168233 which is a double lip seal in the exact dimensions as you would need. We don't have a Bearing Buddy brand seal but this one will work well for you.
    view full answer...
  • Thickness of Redline Grease Seal # 168233
    You are correct that the Redline Grease Seal # 168233 is the closest option we have to your existing AD2527E seal. The thickness of this particular seal is 0.38 inches. I have attached a short video demonstration on this grease seal that you can also check out.
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure to Get a Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal
    The number 8752 that you referenced doesn't match up with any seal numbers that we carry, but there is a way to determine what replacement seal you would need. You will want to measure where the seal rides on your axle spindle with a dial or digital caliper to get an exact measurement and then you will want to measure the bore of the hub so that you know the inner and outer dimensions for a replacement seal. Check out the picture I attached for more info. Once you get those dimensions...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal with Inner Diameter of 1.687 inch and Outer Diameter of 2.32
    Based on the dimensions you listed the part # 168233 is the correct seal you would need for your trailer hub. This has the same dimensions as your current one which is all that really matters when picking out seals.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Trailer Seal for a 2000 Trailstar Boat Trailer Measuring 2.327 Outer and 1.676 Inner
    Given that we are talking about thousandths of an inch difference, it is very likely that grease seal, # 168233, is the correct seal for you. To be certain, you can find the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the metal of the bearings. That way I can determine all of the correct parts for your boat trailer. You can also look at the seal you have for a tiny, nearly unreadable part number on the black rubber part of the seal somewhere. It is very tough to read. But if you see...
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure to Determine the Correct Grease Seal for a Trailer Spindle
    The # 168233 Double Lip Grease Seal has an outside diameter of 2.332 inches and an inside diameter of 1.688 inches. This seal is not compatible with a AF2527E seal with a O.D 2.312, because, even though the O.D. id very close, the inner diameter of the is seal is 1.750 inches and would not be the correct fit for the spindle diameter. You will need to take an accurate measurement of the outside diameter of your existing seal, or the inside diameter of the mounting surface for the seal...
    view full answer...
  • What is Difference Between Bearing Seal NOK # AD2527E and # AD2527EO
    We're not sure what the O stands for, in anything, but to make sure this bearing seal works for you you can take a few quick measurements. You will need to measure the outside diameter of your existing seal, or the inside diameter of the mounting surface for the seal in the hub. You will also need an accurate measurement of the spindle at the seal surface. I have posted a photo to show the dimensions you will need to measure. A dial caliper will provide an accurate measurement to determine...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Seal for Trailer
    The seal we carry closest to that measurement is # 168233 that has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and outer of 2.332 inches. If you can provide me with the bearing numbers or their inner diameters I may be able to confirm a definite fit.
    view full answer...
  • How to Install the Grease Seal Part # 168233
    The rubber lip on the Grease Seal part # 168233 will face towards the trailer which means the open end will face towards the bearing. The installation process can be seen in the attached review video. In order to remove the old seal you will want to use the Seal Puller part # PTW1219. I have attached a video that shows how the puller is used as well.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Replacement For Napa Trailer Grease Seal 16667
    The grease seal we offer with the same dimensions as the Napa 16667 seal you mentioned is part # 168233. This seal has an I.D of 1.688 inches and an O.D of 2.332 inches
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub/Drum Assembly With 25580 Bearing for Use on Mobile Home Axle
    Mobile home axles are designed for single-use, as when transporting the trailer to its permanent location. These often use uncommon bearings that are not readily available. In your case we do offer bearing # 25580 and we also offer hubs that use this part. The link provided will let you see all such hub/drum assemblies. You will need to know your outer bearing to match this as well. Filters on the page allow you to select that attribute, as well as the axle capacity, bolt pattern, drum...
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  • Seal Recommendation for Replacing National 473317
    We only have one seal that matches the inner and outer diameter you need and that is the part # 168233 that you referenced. It may not be quite as wide as your current seal but it still will fit the hub and work well. I have attached a photo of the inside of a hub you can check out. In the photo the arrow indicates how the seal is installed on the hub. As you can see the flat side of the seal is flush with the edge on the inside of the hub. It would not need to be pushed past that point.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings And Seals For 1-3/8 Inch Trailer Axle Spindle
    We have a grease seal that matches the dimensions you have on your trailer. The seal we offer is part # 168233. This seal has a 1.688 inside diameter and 2.332 outside diameter. The race that is designed to work with the seal is part # L68110. We also have the # L68149 bearings you mentioned, but they do not come in a kit with the race and seal mentioned. You did not say if the # L68149 is the outer or inner bearing. Since you provided accurate measurements it sounds like you have...
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  • Replacement Seal # 10-36 Recommendation for a Hub with Bearings 25580/LM67048
    The correct grease seal that you would need is Grease Seals 10-36 pair, part # RG06-070. If you wanted a kit that had a replacement 25580 and 67048 bearings plus the 10-36 seal you would want a Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal, part # BK3-300. I attached a link to an FAQ article on wheel bearing backing as well as a video of how its done below for you to check out.
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  • What is the Thickness of the Redline Grease Seal # 168233
    The thickness of the Redline Grease Seal # 168233 seal is 0.38. However, thickness is not always a dimension associated with picking out a suitable replacement seal. Typically it is the outer diameter and the inner bearing for picking out a replacement seal. With that being said, you would not want to use a seal thicker than what your hub has. However, using a narrower is fine and will work for you. I have attached a photo to show you how to measure the outer diameter of your seal and...
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  • Grease Seal Leaking On 1995 Ranger Boat Trailer
    If you have installed the # 168233 grease seal and you have Bearing Buddies installed and it still leaks, you may have used too much grease and actually blown out the seal. Often times, we find that is the problem when folks are using Bearing Buddies. You will need to check the dimensions of your hub and spindle to make sure you have the correct size. You can use a digital caliper like part # PTW80157 and get as accurate as possible measurement. The inside diameter of the # 168233...
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Inner Diameter 1.69 and Outer Diameter 2.31 inch
    We have the grease seal part # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688 inch and an outer diameter of 2.332 inch. Based on the dimensions you listed this would be the correct seal.
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  • Replacement Trailer Seal for a NOK 2527EO
    The Grease Seal # 168233 that you referenced is listed in our cross reference chart as an exact replacement for the NOK AD2527EO. If the outer diameter and inner diameter match what your hub calls for they should work just fine. If the diameter of the portion of your spindle where the seal rides is right at 2.125 inches and the inner diameter of where the seal fits in the hub is 3.376 inches you would be just fine.
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  • Trailer Grease Seal Recommendation for Inner Diameter 1.7 inch and Outer Diameter 2.33 inch
    The closest grease seal that will work for you is the part # 168233. This has an outer diameter of 2.33 inches and an inner diameter of 1.688. Since the inner diameter is a rubber portion I would stretch if needed to match yours that is only a hair larger. For dust covers the only thing we have that matches the size you need is Bearing Buddies part # BB1810.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
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Expert Research:
Michael H
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Jameson C
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Expert Research:
Sarah H
Installed by:
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Video Edited:
Chris R

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