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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 2.332 Inch O.D.
  6. 1.688 Inch I.D.
Grease Seal

Grease Seal

Item # 168233
Our Price: $9.90
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.04 lbs
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Grease Seal 2.332 Inch O.D. 168233
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Redline. Grease Seal part number 168233 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 168233

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.332 Inch O.D.
  • 1.688 Inch I.D.
  • Redline

Use With:
1.688 2.332 Unique #84 Hubs

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
Chicago Rawhide #

Video of Grease Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - 168233

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (139 Customer Reviews)


They had a hard to find hub for an old boat trailer axle. The seal was missing from the package, they wasted no time getting me what I needed.

I would buy from them again!


First I would like to say that in my opinion the replacement hub is much better than the original because it is made from a solid casting, as opposed the the 3 piece original. Everything was machined well and fit exactly as expected. Not only would I recommend this product but I have to say that just as important as the product is the customer service. Your representative Kate took the time to help me with gathering the information we needed so that she could then search to locate the assembly I needed. She was confident that it would be the correct one and she was right.


Right seal and received them quick.


Just got trailer hubs rebult today.
seals arrived on time and order process was easy.


Reliable and quick shipping, including tracking info., good prices. A great back-up company to deal with when our local parts companies can't fill the material requests.Seems like double lip, spring loaded seals are always tough to get. For marine applications they perform better. Highly recommend them. Great website, with good information and products. You know when you buy something from these folks, it's going to make it to the door. Thanks


Trailer is being pulled out of state, needed the seals quickly. etrailer came through. Thank you


Bought this seal for a boat trailer. I could find one anywhere in town but found it here on etrailer. Seal fit great and I’ve had no issues since marking this repair. Parts were delivered quickly. Thanks



I use my boat a lot. Have not had any problems with the parts from etralier.


These arrived faster than I could have expected. Quality looks good. They fit the UFP oil bath hubs on my Ranger Trail just fine. I had tried the name brand parts suppliers and a couple of trailer specialists in Jax, Fl. and they all thought I didn't know what I was talking about. One place could have ordered seals for $10.00 each. Thanks Etrailer. I have already recommended you to a friend.

Steve S.


I sold that boat and trailer last fall. No problems related to using your products. Ill go to you first on any future projects and recommend to friends.Thanks, Steve


If you have UFP hubs on your boat trailer, these are the seals you need. Slightly smaller than standard 3500 lb axle hubs.

As always etrailer was fast and provided great service.



No issues after 1 year. Still holding up great!


These bearing seals install and work great! They were definitely oddballs--I couldn't find them anywhere else like Northern Tool, or Academy. In fact, twice, I bought the wrong set with the wrong advice from the store aids because they said, "It common, so it should work". Turns out, not so common after all. There's when I found etrailer...and glad I did!

Thank you!



Great! Boat Trailer glides like a champ with no leaks of grease or water in or out!


I have only driven 100 miles so my review doesn't carry much weight. If given opportunity later I will update. I will say I had confusing and sometimes unpleasant ordering experience until I called and Tommy C. took charge of my dilema as to go with bearing buddy seal kit or a double lip seal. I went with double lip as per Tommy suggestion.



Good, much better than single lip seal. No grease leaking. You have to get double lip seals in my experience for boat trailer


Good price
Quick shipping


Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like . Excellent!!


Perfect fit for Unique #84 spindles, easy installation and corrected the leakage from my worn out seals.



After a year and many fishing trips trailering an average of 100 miles per trip, these bearings are still doing good. No hot hubs, bearing noise or other problems.


I got the email notification that the package was delivered before I went to the mailbox.This digital age is amazing. And the delivery was a day ahead of promised.
I haven't installed them yet but I would like to complement
etrailer on the tech support. I have a 19 year old Tracker trailer. Every few years I replace bearings and always have a problem with finding correct parts, It seems the L68149 inner bearing uses 2 different races that are different in size. To make matters worse the existing inner race was not marked with the correct part number. L68111 instead of the correct L68110. I measured bearing sizes several times and was still not certain what was wrong. While chasing down what to order I found the answer in the etrailer FAQ page. Having the exact measurements for the parts really helped. I also found the perfect replacement for the damaged rubber part on the transom saver for the boat. Now when it warms up a few degrees I can get these installed and be ready to go fishing. Thanks, etrailer.


Did exactly what I needed to. Quality s eal


Excellent experience.The product is of high quality and the order was processed immediately .I will come back to them to buy again.Thanks


I got what I ordered...quick. Had a small issue when ordering on line. It can be confusing when checking out to confirm that the correct products and quantities are included in the order. You push the checkout button and hope the confirmation is what you want. Well, in this instance, only one of the pair of seals I wanted was in the order. I ordered on Friday after hours and immediately sent an email to request a correction to add the second item. I called on Saturday and reached the recording to advise I could speak to someone during normal business hours. So I called again Monday morning and was told by Nicki that my order had already been shipped - efficient! Nicki was good enough to waive the shipping for the second seal, and both seals arrived in separate packages the same day. Everything worked out. Thanks I might suggest that the purchaser have at least some opportunity to revise an order before it ships if the confirmation does not have what was desired. I know the shopping cart page is supposed to provide this opportunity before checkout, but I've occasionally done stuff that doesn't translate to following screens - like in this instance. All in all, I would definitely use again.


The bearing seals are now the right size and went in smoothly. I originally purchased the seals for Unique hubs as stated in your details. Unfortunately, these were EZ lube 3,500 seals and not the same as what I needed. I needed "Unique 84" seals which had a smaller diameter and ended up having to buy these in addition.
I would recommend that you should improve your description as I'm sure others have had or will have, the same issue and those too will have to buy more than what they need.


Wheel bearing Grease Seal to repair Ranger Boat Trailer. This is not the same PN that Ranger Boat shipped to me.......but it has the very same measurements...1.68 inches by 2.33 inches.. Works just fine.


Seals were a perfect fit for my trailer wheels and they are doing an excellent job keeping the grease in and water out on my boat trailer.


The grease seals fit perfectly. I’ve driven over 150 miles and no leaks. etrailer saved the day. Before ordering from them I had made about 8 trips to various auto parts stores, buying and returning seals. One store had the part number for the correct seal and still sold me a seal that didn’t fit. My trailer is at a 1998 model and etrailer had the seal.


The product was great , fit perfectly,Took for ever to arrive 10 days, so I thought I might not have placed the order correctly so I re ordered them, the people at E Trailer caught the mistake and called me to verify that I really wanted two of the same product . So they are on there toes there at E Trailer. Will order from here again, but the shipping was slow. But it could have been the post office fault.

by: is the go to place for finding hub seals! I really wanted a double lip seal for my boat trailer, and this fit the bill. This worked like a champ based on the caliper measurements!


I had a non standard axle, so had to call and verify bearings. Was very pleased with the service and that the person on the other end was very easy to understand. Shipment was fast and the parts fit. The price was very competitive.

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this Redline Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Will Grease Seal # 168233 Fit in Place of a Wider 0.41 Inch Thick Grease Seal
    Double lip seal # 168233 should work just fine for you even though it is a little thinner than the seal you are looking for. If you could tell me what the inner and outer bearing numbers are I can determine if this is the best option or if there is something else that would work for you. But there are no other seals that have the same inner and outer diameter as this seal. Any time you pull a hub to pack bearings or replace anything inside the hub you are going to end up needing a new...
    view full answer...
  • What is the Thickness of the Redline Grease Seal # 168233
    The thickness of the Redline Grease Seal # 168233 seal is 0.38. However, thickness is not always a dimension associated with picking out a suitable replacement seal. Typically it is the outer diameter and the inner bearing for picking out a replacement seal. With that being said, you would not want to use a seal thicker than what your hub has. However, using a narrower is fine and will work for you. I have attached a photo to show you how to measure the outer diameter of your seal and...
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Recommended Replacement Seal for an NOK AD2527E Oil Seal
    From what I could find out about your NOK AD2527E seal, it will have the exact same inner diameter as the Redline # 168233. It does look like the outer diameter is a little larger on the # 168233, but not by much. So it will be a bit of a tight fit, but will get everything sealed up properly.
    view full answer...
  • Dimensions and Part Number Cross-Reference for Grease Seal 168233
    Grease seals are best matched by part number but when this is not possible measuring inner and outer diameters to the nearest thousandth of an inch (1.234-inches for example) is necessary to ensure a proper seal at the spindle and hub bore. A digital caliper is the best tool for measurement at this small scale. The seal included in hub part T1721400042 is double-lip seal part # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688-inches and an outer diameter of 2.332-inches. I can't vouch for...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Double Lip Seal for Boat Trailer with 473317 Seals
    You would want to go with a double lip seal since your trailer is a boat trailer that will be submerged underwater. For that you would want the part # 168233 which is a double lip seal in the exact dimensions as you would need. We don't have a Bearing Buddy brand seal but this one will work well for you.
    view full answer...
  • What Information is Used for Picking Out Replacement Bearing Race for Trailer
    Thickness is not usually a dimension associated with picking out a replacement seal. Typically it's the outer diameter and the bearing used with it that is used for picking out a replacement seal. With that being said, you wouldn't want to use a race thicker than what your hub has.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Replacement for Single Lip Grease Seal 16667
    The Double Lip Grease Seal part # 168233 will be a replacement for the Single Lip Grease Seal 16667. The extra lip won't affect fit, it will just do a better job of keeping grease in and water/debris out. They both have the same inner diameter at 1.688" but the outer diameters are slightly different, 2.328" versus 2.332". Therefore, it might be a bit harder to seat the seal into the hub since it it's slightly larger at .004" but there won't be any issues with this.
    view full answer...
  • How To Determine Correct Replacement for Grease Seal 8752
    The correct way for you to determine the right replacement grease seal for your 8752 is actually by the inner diameter. Seal # 168233 does have a 2.332" outer diameter and a 1.688" inner diameter, which you will need to match in order for this seal to be the correct replacement. You mentioned the "spindle surface diameter" of 1.67 but I am not sure where you measured that from. If you take a look at Point B on the accompanying diagram I added you can see exactly where you need to measure...
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  • What is Difference Between Bearing Seal NOK # AD2527E and # AD2527EO
    We're not sure what the O stands for, in anything, but to make sure this bearing seal works for you you can take a few quick measurements. You will need to measure the outside diameter of your existing seal, or the inside diameter of the mounting surface for the seal in the hub. You will also need an accurate measurement of the spindle at the seal surface. I have posted a photo to show the dimensions you will need to measure. A dial caliper will provide an accurate measurement to determine...
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal with Inner Diameter of 1.687 inch and Outer Diameter of 2.32
    Based on the dimensions you listed the part # 168233 is the correct seal you would need for your trailer hub. This has the same dimensions as your current one which is all that really matters when picking out seals.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Trailer Seal for a NOK 2527EO
    The Grease Seal # 168233 that you referenced is listed in our cross reference chart as an exact replacement for the NOK AD2527EO. If the outer diameter and inner diameter match what your hub calls for they should work just fine. If the diameter of the portion of your spindle where the seal rides is right at 2.125 inches and the inner diameter of where the seal fits in the hub is 3.376 inches you would be just fine.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Replacement For Napa Trailer Grease Seal 16667
    The grease seal we offer with the same dimensions as the Napa 16667 seal you mentioned is part # 168233. This seal has an I.D of 1.688 inches and an O.D of 2.332 inches
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  • Replacement Trailer Seal for a 2000 Trailstar Boat Trailer Measuring 2.327 Outer and 1.676 Inner
    Given that we are talking about thousandths of an inch difference, it is very likely that grease seal, # 168233, is the correct seal for you. To be certain, you can find the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the metal of the bearings. That way I can determine all of the correct parts for your boat trailer. You can also look at the seal you have for a tiny, nearly unreadable part number on the black rubber part of the seal somewhere. It is very tough to read. But if you see any...
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Inner Diameter 1.69 and Outer Diameter 2.31 inch
    We have the grease seal part # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688 inch and an outer diameter of 2.332 inch. Based on the dimensions you listed this would be the correct seal.
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  • Appropriate Replacement for AD2527E Trailer Hub Grease Seal
    When your existing AD2527E grease seal is cross-referenced, the # 168233 does show up as an appropriate replacement. Both seals have a 1.688 ID and a 2.332 OD. The # 168233 would work just fine for you. I've linked to a demonstration video showing a hub rebuild.
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  • How to Pick Out Grease Seal for Older Harbor Freight Trailer
    The grease seal number you referenced doesn't cross reference with anything we know will fit. Can you measure the outside diameter of the spindle where the seal rides and the inner diameter of the hub where it installs? With that info I can see what you'd need and if we have a solution.
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  • Replacement Boat Trailer Seal for a NOK AD2527E Grease Seal
    The Grease Seal part # 168233 has a double lip so it can be used on a boat trailer and be submersed under water, yes. This is also the correct replacement for the NOK AD2527E Grease Seal that you have now.
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  • Seal Recommendation for Replacing National 473317
    We only have one seal that matches the inner and outer diameter you need and that is the part # 168233 that you referenced. It may not be quite as wide as your current seal but it still will fit the hub and work well. I have attached a photo of the inside of a hub you can check out. In the photo the arrow indicates how the seal is installed on the hub. As you can see the flat side of the seal is flush with the edge on the inside of the hub. It would not need to be pushed past that point.
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  • How to Measure to Get a Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal
    The number 8752 that you referenced doesn't match up with any seal numbers that we carry, but there is a way to determine what replacement seal you would need. You will want to measure where the seal rides on your axle spindle with a dial or digital caliper to get an exact measurement and then you will want to measure the bore of the hub so that you know the inner and outer dimensions for a replacement seal. Check out the picture I attached for more info. Once you get those dimensions...
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  • Replacement Seal for Trailer
    The seal we carry closest to that measurement is # 168233 that has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and outer of 2.332 inches. If you can provide me with the bearing numbers or their inner diameters I may be able to confirm a definite fit.
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace AD2527E
    To replace your NOK AD2527E seal you can use # 168233. It has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches. Based on what I could find on the NOK AD2527E the inner diameter is the same and the outer diameter is 2.328 inches. So it will be a slightly tight fit but no other seal is even close.
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  • Does Grease Seal Thickness Matter More than Inner and Outer Diameter
    The thickness of the grease seal like the # 168233 won't matter. You're really just worried about the inner and outer diameter of the seal, so as long as your seal cross references to the National Seal 473317 this will be the correct replacement.
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  • Thickness of Redline Grease Seal # 168233
    You are correct that the Redline Grease Seal # 168233 is the closest option we have to your existing AD2527E seal. The thickness of this particular seal is 0.38 inches. I have attached a short video demonstration on this grease seal that you can also check out.
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  • Replacement Trailer Grease Seal that Inner Diameter 1.688 and Outer Diameter 2.328
    The thickness of the Redline Grease Seal # 168233 seal is 0.38. However, thickness is not always a dimension associated with picking out a suitable replacement seal. Typically it is the outer diameter and the inner bearing for picking out a replacement seal. Based on the NOK number and the dimensions you listed this is a match.
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