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Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Item # BB1980A-SS

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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BB1980A-SS - Bearing Protector Grease Cap Bearing Buddy Caps
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  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • 1.98 Inch
  • Bearing Buddy
Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) part number BB1980A-SS can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (401)
  • Q & A (217)
  • Videos (3)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB1980A-SS

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.


Features:

  • Replaces the grease cap in the axle hub
  • Prevents wheel-bearing failure
    • Keeps water and dirt out of hubs and bearings
    • Allows boat trailer wheels to be completely submerged
    • Stops corrosion and pitting on bearings
  • Provides easily accessible grease fitting
    • Makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple
  • Maintains slight, controlled pressure (3 psi) with spring-loaded piston, preventing water from entering hub
  • Allows visual monitoring of grease levels with blue indicator ring
    • Ring sits flush with top of cylinder when full
    • If ring is below top, add grease to move piston outward 1/8"
  • Prevents overfilling and rear seal damage with automatic pressure-relief feature
    • Grease seeps around piston edges and into barrel when full
  • Constructed of stainless steel
    • Ensures longer-lasting fit than plastic or aluminum products
  • Includes rubber covers
  • Installs easily
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Fits 1.980" hub bore
    • Works with outer bearing models L-44643, L-44649 and L-44640
    • Works with outer bearing cup (race) model L44610
      • Commonly found on 2,000-lb, 2,500-lb and 3,500-lb Dexter axles
  • Lifetime warranty


Bearing Buddy installed diagram

Bearing Buddy Operation

Replace your existing grease cap with a Bearing Buddy to ensure a safe, easy way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. To adjust the amount of grease in the hub, use a grease gun to add more through the appropriate fitting. Adding grease moves the Bearing Buddy spring-loaded piston outward 1/8".

The O-ring inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy maintains a seal from the outside. The interior of the Bearing Buddy is pressurized, preventing water from entering the barrel and diluting the grease.

An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that can damage the inner seal.

The blue indicator ring allows you to visually monitor the amount of grease in your hub. The ring should sit flush with the top of the cylinder. If the ring is below the top of the cylinder, add grease until the piston moves 1/8" outward.



42208 Bearing Buddy Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)



This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2013 - 2014 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Nomad Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 130B

2016 - 2016 Keystone Springdale Summerland Travel Trailer 1400FD

2019 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Cadet Travel Trailer 14CR

2018 - 2018 Coachmen Clipper Travel Trailer 14CR

2015 - 2015 Coachmen Apex Travel Trailer 151RBX

2018 - 2018 Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pup Travel Trailer 15SW

2016 - 2016 Keystone Springdale Summerland Travel Trailer 1600BH

2016 - 2016 Keystone Hideout Travel Trailer 165LHS

2016 - 2019 Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pup Travel Trailer 16BHS

2015 - 2018 Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pup Travel Trailer 16FQ

2018 - 2019 Keystone Passport ROV Travel Trailer 170RKRV

2019 - 2019 Forest River Salem Cruise Lite Travel Trailer 171RBXL

2019 - 2019 Forest River Wildwood X-Lite Travel Trailer 171RBXL

2019 - 2019 Keystone Bullet Colt Travel Trailer 171RKCT

2015 - 2015 Dutchmen Kodiak Express Travel Trailer 172E

2017 - 2017 Dutchmen Kodiak Travel Trailer 172E

2019 - 2019 Keystone Bullet Colt Travel Trailer 172RBCT

2016 - 2017 Dutchmen Aerolite Travel Trailer 174E

2016 - 2016 Keystone Hideout Travel Trailer 175LHS

2016 - 2017 Keystone Hideout Travel Trailer 178LHS

2019 - 2019 Forest River Cherokee Grey Wolf Travel Trailer 17BH

2019 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Cadet Travel Trailer 17CFQ

2018 - 2018 Coachmen Clipper Travel Trailer 17CFQ

2010 - 2012 Forest River Shockwave TT Toy Hauler 17FB

2016 - 2016 Keystone Springdale Summerland Travel Trailer 1800BH

2012 - 2012 Skyline Bobcat Travel Trailer 186

See All Vehicle Fits


Video of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) - BB1980A-SS

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (401 Customer Reviews)

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.

- BB1980A-SS
by:

Stainless is the only way to go for a boat trailer ! 564488



- BB1980A-SS
by:

The Bearing Buddies are the best product available for extending bearing life and preventing problems. But more important is the fact that I had an issue that required Etrailer to send me another Bearing Buddy. It was no fault of the product or the company but I had explained the problem to them in an email and it was taken care of NO QUESTIONS ASKED. That alone makes me an Etrailer customer for life and I will be buying all my trailer needs from them....NO QUESTIONS ASKED. Thank you Etrailer. 307861



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Used these on a tandem axle boat trailer during a recent brake overhaul. Had a little problem with getting the right size, but etrailer was awesome at helping me return the wrong size and get the corrected one. Properly sized, they installed perfectly and look great. Grease covers are an extra nice look. Would definitely recommend. 628855



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Have used these for years and are better than regular but they still fall off on rough roads. Probably because they are heavy. I find the indicators very useful as they let me know when there is grease pressure in the hubs. 150,000 salt water trailer miles without a bearing failure! 198604


Comments

The set was purchased because one of mine fell off the hub. Product works OK but they still leak grease over time and require constant attention to keep appropriately filled. Worst mistake is to completely fill a hub with cold grease . Insures the hot grease will pop off the Buddy or expel the grease.

thlamers - 05/29/2016

18143

- BB1980A-SS
by:

I just installed stainless steel bearing buddies on my new zodiac trailer. This product is excellent quality and went in seamlessly with some tapping against a block of wood. The more important reason for this review is my appreciation of the customer service I received form eTrailer. Before turning to eTrailer, I originally purchased a set of bearing buddies locally which were purportedly the same size but did not fit. After trying a size down which were way too small, I finally borrowed a micrometer and purchased the original size buddies from eTrailer. Would have saved myself a lot of trouble had I just gone to eTrailer in the first instance. Customer service was excellent. Katie stayed in touch with me throughout by email and even telephoned me to ensure I was on track and satisfied. Imagine that? No doubt, eTrailer will be my "go to" company for all my trailer needs. 316262



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I bought a used boat with rusty rims leaking at the beads. I ordered 4 new galvanized rims here for 1/2 what I could get them for locally (and I live in Florida, surrounded by boats). The rims are excellent, hot-dipped galvanized, no flaws, mounted easily as they should, and are of very good quality. Some reviewers didn't like the "roughness" of the rims, said they weren't "polished" enough for them. They don't know anything about rims. All galvanized rims are shiny and rough when new, gray and rough when exposed to the air after a while. If you want polished, shiny rims, buy aluminum or chrome steel rims, then spend your weekends washing and waxing them to try and fend off corrosion and rust. I'd rather be boating than cleaning rims any day :-) 134450



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I have been working on a boat and trailer that I got in a government surplus auction. The trailer is a triple axle and needed quite a bit of work. I replaced one axle and the brake lights. I am in the process of replacing all of the brakes, tires, bearings and seals. I am about half way done with the trailer and so far I have been very happy with the parts I have received from etrailer. I have not been able to road test them yet but installation has been great. I intend on getting a majority of the parts I need to finish the project from etrailer. The video overviews and installation instructions have been very helpful. Looking forward to sharing more pictures when the project is done. 318476



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Working just as expected. Sure is great not to get any grease on the wheel or in the water! 574914



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I just got the product installed so I do not know the long term yet. The delivery was slow and hung up due to the ice we had here in the southeast. We're not used to this stuff here in SC. :( Hence my collapsed shelter in 2 boats! :( :( However, I would like to say: The sales staff was most helpful. Very professional and friendly. Very easy to work with. It is always nice to work with a person that is smiling on the other end of the line. 116888


Comments

Product is still preforming as I expected it to. O yea, the ice missed us two days ago by 40 miles.No regrets on my part of missing the ice and my purchase of the bearing buddies.

BIll B - 02/18/2015

9595

- BB1980A-SS
by:

The bearing buddys work as advertised and am very glad I purchased them. I may need another pair as we are considering trading up to a larger trailer. 134800


Comments

I no longer own the trailer but the product is a good one.The new trailer we purchased has fittings and see through covers from the factory.

Ronald P - 06/09/2015

12433

- BB1980A-SS
by:

had to replace a hub recently, so all the bearings, seals and races were replaced on both sides received the bearing buddies & had them installed shortly after approx 15 minutes, then added grease fit well, can't wait to get back in the water 193094


Comments

They save me a lot of work. Ive had no trouble since installing them thanks for following up

Joe K - 06/17/2016

18696

- BB1980A-SS
by:

Great product, will save much time on repacking bearings 641531



- BB1980A-SS
by:

All products were as expected, I will buy from them again. 635488



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Exactly what i needed. 634065



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Well made Good price 634202



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Appreciate the quick shipping and great customer service. I repurchased these bearing buddies due to the fact someone actually needed the bb's more than I did... Driving back from a long trip staying at roadside hotel.. I drove about 4,600 miles on the old set they we're on a 15'enclosed trailer. Never let me down, kept everything moving smoothly. Whenever I need parts for my trailer I always use etrailer. They're a great help 632048



- BB1980A-SS
by:

The service was great, deliver as promised, and I look forward to getting the tires installed. Thanks 629021



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Product as described. Will keep my bearings alive longer. 625354



- BB1980A-SS
by:

etrailer = Fast and efficient as always. My first stop for anything towing/trailer related! Thanks again. 619967



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Received on time. Products were as described and fit perfectly. Could have been easier if you had sent someone to install everything 620051



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Arrived today I just order them last week put them on today fit great! 616867



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Best prices on quality name brand parts. Very fast shipping 615310



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Excellent product and fit perfect 612994



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Right parts at the right price!! 610495



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Super fast shipping, the web site is the best I've ever used!! You have all the options anyone would ever need at any price range. Will be reordering soon!! You make my life easier. Thanks 610401



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Great product and terrific service. 609466



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Fit as well as I expected them to. Could have bought cheaper ones, but their reputation speaks for itself. Why compromise? Best protection I could find, for my new bearings and seals. 605364



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Extremely good co. To deal with and great products .fast service. 604415



- BB1980A-SS
by:

All products I have ordered from etrailer over the past have been nothing short of super. They provide superior products while proving the DIY like me all the specifications of their products to ensure perfect fit. Thanks for your service to us guys that need to do things ourselves to save money and enjoy our hobbies. May you stay in business forever. 603745



- BB1980A-SS
by:

On time, good price 603501



- BB1980A-SS
by:

100% Satisfied 600680



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Works great. I don't run a trailer down the road without these. We like to saltwater sail and these are the answer to getting a full year out of my bearings before having to repack them, when backed in to saltwater a lot of times in the year. 584722



- BB1980A-SS
by:

wrong size was sent but problem will be resolved soon. 578654



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Product is clean and we'll packaged 575848



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Bearing buddys are the way to go. Hoping they fit my aplacation. etrailer is a great place to get yr trailer parts. 571922



- BB1980A-SS
by:

It's a nice usa-made product, easy to install and they look great 569886



- BB1980A-SS
by:

2nd set of bearing buddies I've gotten. excellent. keeping my pontoon bearings in good shape. 567928



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Great product. Working well after one y ear 567395



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Exactly what I need, and received in 3 days. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. 565032



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Good prices, and fast delivery. 557029



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Good product for a decent price. Would buy them again from etrailer. 555698



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Will never launch a boat again without these on the trailer. I could run them a lifetime if used properly and my bearings wouldn't look as bad as they do after 6 months without them. 554828



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Easy install. Well worth the investment ! 554814



- BB1980A-SS
by:

My original order was handled very quickly and efficiently. I received it as promised. However; my order of 4 wheel bearing sets was missing 2 grease seals. When I called to report the shortage, my problem was handled promptly. But, instead of shipping the 2 missing grease seals, which should have been via overnight mail, it was held up and shipped in their regular shipping process, which took almost a week. Through no fault of mine, I was held up for an extra week because of their slow response. This leaves a bad taste in my mouth and means I will be considering alternatives to ordering from Etrailer in the future. 550739



- BB1980A-SS
by:

great service and fair prices - thanks 549569



- BB1980A-SS
by:

MAKE REGULAR 3-1/2 HOUR TRIPS TO THE GULF WITH OUR BOAT TRAILER AND SPLASH IT IN THE SALTWATER. THESE DID A GREAT JOB OF KEEPING BEARINGS WELL LUBRICATED AND KEEP SALTWATER FROM INTRUDING. 549316



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Good prices and fast shipping. 543552



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Used these for years and work great. Good price and fast shipping, great way to get a repeat customer! Thanks 527667



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Parts have not been used yet but look correct and came in a timely manner. Thanks Guys 525049



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I received my bearing buddies on time and well packaged. They fit perfectly (because I measured first) and had no issues with grease fitting. Rubber caps were a nice snug fit. Installed, pumped in new grease and good to go. 523221


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  • Bearing Buddy and Bearing Kit Recommendation for 3,500 lb Axles
  • For standard 3,500 lb axles the correct bearing kit is the part # BK2-100 which comes with L44649 and L68149 bearings. Bearing Buddy Protectors # BB1980A-SS are the ones most commonly seen on 3,500 lb hubs. This is designed to fit a hub bore of 1.980 inches.
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy and Bearing Kit for Malone MicroSport Trailer
  • The Malone MicroSport Trailer # MPG460G does have the 1.98 inch inner diameter hub. I confirmed this with the manufacturer. To add bearing buddies, you simply need the # BB1980A for chrome or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel. You will not need to replace the bearings to install these caps. You can simply use the LubriMatic Economy Size Mini Grease Gun # L30100 and add the marine trailer wheel bearing grease # L11399 that matches what the axle comes with. When installing these, you...
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  • Recommended Brake Assemblies for Karavan Boat Trailer with 3500 lb Axle
  • For your brake assemblies, I recommend the Demco Hydraulic Brake Kit - Free Backing - Galvanized - 10" - Left/Right Hand Assemblies - 3.5K # 40716-15. These galvanized assemblies will work very well for saltwater or freshwater use, resisting corrosion. The free backing design allows you to back up without using the lockout on your coupler. This will absolutely fit your 3500 lb axle. For your Bearing Buddies, bearings, and seals, you very likely have the standard size 84 spindle...
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  • Trailer Hubs and Bearing Buddies for Trailer Spindles with 1 Inch Diameter
  • It sounds like your spindle uses L44643 bearings, There are a lot of hubs that use those bearings and have a 4 on 4 bolt pattern such as # AKIHUB-440-2-1K. However, the 1968 Bearing Buddies are designed to fit a hub that uses outer bearing M-12649 or 07100 which are not common. The hubs that fit your spindle take the 1.98 Bearing Buddies such as # BB1980A-SS or # BB1980A.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Information on Older EZ Loader Boat Trailer
  • I spoke with my contact at EZ Loader regarding your boat trailer. The correct bearing kit for the axles on your trailer will be the Bearing Kit # BK2-100. This includes the compatible # L44649 outer bearing and # L68149 inner bearing, along with the races and grease seal. For the correct Bearing Buddy, you will use # BB1980A or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel. These will fit hub bores that are 1.980 inches in diameter and works with the above mentioned outer bearing number. The...
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  • How to Keep Grease From Coming Off My Outer Bearing
  • I recommend using a Bearing Buddy to keep the grease in your hub and on your outer bearing. Bearing Buddies replace the grease cap in the axle hub and prevents wheel-bearing failure. They also keep water and dirt out of hubs and bearings. You will be able to use the same grease you are using and will need a grease gun similar to # L30132 to load grease into the Bearing Buddy. All the grease will end up flying off your hub it is not contained. The key is to pack enough grease into the...
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Kit for Carry-On 5X8G Trailer
  • Based on my research, your Carry-On 5X8G Trailer uses hubs that have a 1.98 inch diameter pilot hole. With this in mind, the correct Bearing Buddy Kit will be one that fits 1.98 inch hub bores like the part # BB1980A-SS. These will replace the grease cap in the axle hub and prevent wheel-bearing failure by keeping water and dirt out. They will also provide easily accessible grease fittings and makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple. I have included a short installation video...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Spare Parts To Replace UFP Hubs With Rotors And Calipers
  • We don't have the UFP Brand, but I can give you some compatible parts. For your trailer hubs with rotor, I recommend the Kodiak 10" Hub-and-Rotor Assembly - 5 on 4-1/2 - Dacromet - 3,500 lbs # KHR10D. You will need grease seal # RG06-050 along with bearing # L68149 and # L44649. For your brakes, I recommend the Kodiak Ceramic Brake Pads w/Stainless Steel Backing Plate - 3,500 lbs to 6,000 lbs # K225CPSS along with the Kodiak Disc Brake Caliper - Stainless Steel - 3,500 lbs to 6,000...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Bearing Buddy for 2 Inch Hub Bore
  • We have a few Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors available that are designed to fit a hub bore of around 2 inches in diameter, but not one that measures 2 inches exactly. I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 so you can take an exact measurement of your existing hub bore. For example, the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS are designed for 1.980 inch diameter hub bores while the Bearing Buddy Protectors # BB2047SS are compatible with hub bores that have a diameter...
    view full answer...

  • Compatible Bearing Buddy to Fit Axle Hubs with Reliable Oil Caps Installed
  • When trying to remove the broken Reliable oil cap you may need to use a hammer and a long flat head screwdriver. Placing the screwdriver head on the outer edge of the cap, lightly tap the screwdriver to force cap to turn in the desired direction to remove from the hub. Be careful not to put the screwdriver inside hub to try to remove the cap. It could slip and damage the threads on the inside of the hub. To make sure you will receive the correct Bearing Buddy for your trailer's hubs,...
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  • Bearing Kit to Replace Timken 07100 Bearings on a Boat Trailer
  • Your Timken 07100 bearings have the same dimensions as bearing # L44643. They both have a 1 inch inner diameter and fit a BT8 spindle. The correct bearing kit is part # BK1-100. The Bearing Buddy protector to fit is part # BB1980A-SS in stainless steel or # BB1980A in chrome.
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  • Correct Bearing Buddy Protectors for Outer Bearing Model L44649 with a 1.980 Hub Bore
  • The stainless steel Bearing Buddy grease caps will definitely help keep dirt/water out of your hubs and bearings. These protectors fit a 1.980" hub bore, which is commonly found on 2,000-lb, 2,500-lb and 3,500-lb axles. Bearing Buddy Protectors # BB1980A-SS will work with your outer bearing model # L44649 that has an inner diameter of 1.063 inches. This replacement trailer hub bearing matches with race # L44610 (sold separately). The attached article has some additional information...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Seal For Bearing Buddy Protectors
  • The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) # BB1980A-SS are designed for that blue seal to expand and eventually have visible grease around that edge. I've attached a video that shows this installation and grease application for you. The grease needing to be applied almost every trip is not normal, so I recommend the Spindle Grease Seal Set # BB60002 to contain your grease with a tight seal intended for this application.
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  • Which Size Bearing Buddies Fits 3.5K Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly AKHD-545-35-EZ-K
  • For Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 3,500-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 10" Diameter - 5 on 4-1/2 Item # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K you will need a 1.98 Bearing Buddy. There are a couple of options. For stainless steel use # BB1980A-SS. For chrome plated you can use # BB1980A. Another option in a different brand is the Kodiak Red Eye bearing protectors # KREB1980AC. They work the same way as the Bearing Buddies. I have included links below to videos on a Bearing Buddy model and a Kodiak model.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Pre-Greased Hubs that Use L44649 Inner and Outer Bearings
  • For a pre-grased hub assembly that will fit the spindles on your trailer perfectly I recommend the CE Smith # CE13315. This assembly is designed for 2,700 pound axles and it includes the # L44649 inner and outer bearings along with the races and grease seal. The hub's galvanized finish will also offer excellent corrosion resistance that's ideal for applications like yours where you will be in and out of salt water. For the correct Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors you will use # BB1980A-SS...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit and Bearing Buddy Grease Caps for 2012 Triton LT Trailer with Reliable Axle
  • The owner's manual for the Reliable axle on your Triton PWC trailer indicates that the bearing used on the axle of your weight rating is # L44643. This part serves as both inner and outer bearing according to the manual, which I linked for you. We sell this bearing as an individual part and also as part of a complete bearing kit # BK1-100 which includes 2 of bearing # L44643, 2 of race # L44610, 1 grease seal # 34823 and a cotter pin. You'll need two kits per axle. The hub that uses...
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  • Difference Between Bearing Buddy 1980 Models
  • The model 1980 Bearing Buddy simply means that they fit a 1.980 inch hub bore. There is one difference of note between Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A (Chrome Plated) or # BB1980A-SS (Stainless Steel) and the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980T-SS which is that the latter - with the "T" in the part number - means that it is threaded and fits internally threaded hubs.
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  • Bearing Buddy to Fit Titan Premier Disc Brake Kit # T2HRCM10DAC
  • The Titan Premier Disc Brake Kit # T2HRCM10DAC that you referenced has a hub bore of 1.980 inches, so you have identified the correct set of Bearing Buddy grease caps for use with it, part # BB1980A-SS.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Galvanized Hubs For Utility Trailer Used For Aluminum Boat Launching
  • For your utility trailer, I recommend the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,000-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 - Galvanized # AKIHUB-545-2-G-1K since you use it for boat launching. This assembly will include all of your bearings, races, and grease seal. Your current bearing buddy caps will work with these hubs. If you need a new set, I recommend the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) # BB1980A-SS. If you want a heavier duty grease seal you...
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  • Does Grease Cap Included with # 8-258-50UC1-EZ Hub Act Like A Bearing Buddy
  • The # 8-258-50UC1-EZ Idler Hub Assembly you referenced includes the grease cap for an EZ Lube spindle. An EZ Lube spindle has a zerk fitting in the end of it so grease can quickly and easily be added to the hub. The rubber plug in the center of the grease cap is removable to allow access to the grease zerk. This particular hub can be used if you have a standard spindle with no grease zerk, but a standard hub is available as part # 8-258-50UC1. This hub includes a standard grease cap. Bearing...
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  • Bearing Kit and Bearing Buddys Needed with Inner and Outer Bearings L44649
  • The best (and currently only) bearing kit that comes with the bearings # L44649 and race # L44610 is listed on our site as part # BK1-150. This kit has been reviewed by a wide variety of customers for different applications and it has almost a complete 5 star review so I will let the customers speak for how well the kit works. For Bearing Buddys you need either part # BB1980A which is chrome plated or part # BB1980A-SS which is an upgraded part with a stainless steel construction. I...
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  • Replacement Hub and Easy Lubrication Kit for 2,000 lb Axle
  • Unfortunately there are no oil bath hubs available for your specific application. The only ones that are made fit larger hubs. If you would like a solution that is easier than standard grease application (packing your bearings) then I recommend going with some Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors. These are perfect for solutions where EZ Lube spindles aren't in place as they provide a grease zerk fitting as well as a way to see when you have pumped enough grease into your hub space (see...
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  • Buddy Buddy Recommendation for Trailer Hub with Bearings L44649 and L68149
  • The correct Bearing Buddy to use with the bearing numbers you listed of L44649 and L68149 is the # BB1980A or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel.
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  • Function of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors
  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors like # BB1980A-SS that you referenced serve a couple of purposes, but they are not really designed to hold air pressure inside a hub. One of the main benefits of a Bearing Buddy does indeed have to do with greasing the bearings. It will replace a standard grease cap and it features an easily accessible grease fitting that makes adding grease to the hubs a much simpler process. When installing a brand new hub or new bearings, you will still want to pack...
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Jackie C
Expert Research:
Michael L
Written by:
Tyler C
Expert Research:
Robert G
Expert Research:
Michael H
Installed by:
Jeff D
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Reno H
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Jameson C
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John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Photos by:
Amber A
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Jeffrey L
Installed by:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
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Sarah H
Video Edited:
Zach D

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