1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Bearing Buddy
  3. Caps
  4. Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  5. 1.98 Inch
Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Item # BB1980A-SS
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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BB1980A-SS - Bearing Protector Grease Cap Bearing Buddy Caps
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Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) part number BB1980A-SS can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB1980A-SS

  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • Bearing Buddy
  • 1.98 Inch

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.


Features:

  • Replaces the grease cap in the axle hub
  • Prevents wheel-bearing failure
    • Keeps water and dirt out of hubs and bearings
    • Allows boat trailer wheels to be completely submerged
    • Stops corrosion and pitting on bearings
  • Provides easily accessible grease fitting
    • Makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple
  • Maintains slight, controlled pressure (3 psi) with spring-loaded piston, preventing water from entering hub
  • Allows visual monitoring of grease levels with blue indicator ring
    • Ring sits flush with top of cylinder when full
    • If ring is below top, add grease to move piston outward 1/8"
  • Prevents overfilling and rear seal damage with automatic pressure-relief feature
    • Grease seeps around piston edges and into barrel when full
  • Constructed of stainless steel
    • Ensures longer-lasting fit than plastic or aluminum products
  • Includes rubber covers
  • Installs easily
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Fits 1.980" hub bore
    • Works with outer bearing models L-44643, L-44649 and L-44640
    • Works with outer bearing cup (race) model L44610
      • Commonly found on 2,000-lb, 2,500-lb and 3,500-lb Dexter axles
  • Lifetime warranty


Bearing Buddy installed diagram

Bearing Buddy Operation

Replace your existing grease cap with a Bearing Buddy to ensure a safe, easy way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. To adjust the amount of grease in the hub, use a grease gun to add more through the appropriate fitting. Adding grease moves the Bearing Buddy spring-loaded piston outward 1/8".

The O-ring inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy maintains a seal from the outside. The interior of the Bearing Buddy is pressurized, preventing water from entering the barrel and diluting the grease.

An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that can damage the inner seal.

The blue indicator ring allows you to visually monitor the amount of grease in your hub. The ring should sit flush with the top of the cylinder. If the ring is below the top of the cylinder, add grease until the piston moves 1/8" outward.



42208 Bearing Buddy Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)





Video of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) - BB1980A-SS

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (462 Customer Reviews)

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.

- BB1980A-SS
by:

Made of what appears to be good quality material, fit well, and accept grease easily. 699456



- BB1980A-SS
by:

The best and easiest way to keep your trailer or camper lubed. Simple to install and no mess to grease the wheel bearings. 682368



- BB1980A-SS
by:

These grease caps save a lot of time and time is money. No more pulling the wheels and hubs to grease the bearings. Easy installation and a lot better fit than the original caps. Highly recommend. 690184



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Work as advertised, removed the BB the other day to inspect, no sign of water intrusion. BB coupled with the double lip grease seals are the ticket to long bearing life. 680093



- BB1980A-SS
by:

These are well made and allow me to keep my boat trailer lubed and ready to roll. 694324



- BB1980A-SS
by:

This is the original BEARING BUDDY made in PUERTO RICO - That's made in America! I have found these to be of unsurpassed quality. The size is critical, and BEARING BUDDY makes their parts to a very high accuracy. I have an old used trailer from the 1970s of unknown origin. I was able to measure the hub hole size with a set of vernier calipers and then find the matching bearing buddy within a few thousandths of an inch. Round your size UP not down, as you can always fine adjust the size with file. I DID NOT have to do any of that, and my BEARING BUDDYs installed easily using a hammer and block of wood. I would give this product a 100% review. It is so convenient to grease your bearings that they should NEVER FAIL due to lack of lubrication. 719438



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Have used these for years and are better than regular but they still fall off on rough roads. Probably because they are heavy. I find the indicators very useful as they let me know when there is grease pressure in the hubs. 150,000 salt water trailer miles without a bearing failure! 198604


Comments
The set was purchased because one of mine fell off the hub. Product works OK but they still leak grease over time and require constant attention to keep appropriately filled. Worst mistake is to completely fill a hub with cold grease . Insures the hot grease will pop off the Buddy or expel the grease.
thlamers - 05/29/2016

18143

- BB1980A-SS
by:

Not much to say, fit as intended, looked good, easy to order, timely delivery 663853



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Simply fantastic service. Adjusted my order on the fly and made sure it got to me on time, for a hassle free long-distance trip. Thank you Carol! As for the product -- I went with 1980 SS in the end. Easy to install, load with grease. My trailer's wheels were blissfully silent across an 800 mile round trip. (Now to return the ones I didn't need...) 692547



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I ordered a (difficult to find) trailer wheel hub & a pair of Bearing Buddies to match. I paid only for standard shipping but they arrived promptly in 2 days. The items were safely packaged and appear to be of good quality! I recommend eTrailer as a reliable source for parts! 676698



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Needed hubs for 1958 TEE NEE boat trailer, the old hub was blown apart making it difficult to identify, I called their number and spoke with Donna. You don't often come across a parts rep as personable, experienced and professional, as she guided me to the proper hub set needed. I waited on the review until I had the opportunity to replace the hubs. Happy to say company communication was excellent, delivery was fast and everything fit perfectly and was fairly simple install. Thank you Donna! 692038



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I have a set of Bearing Buddy’s that have been on a utility trailer of mine for 22 years. Now granted it doesn’t get a huge amount of miles each year, but it’s a fair amount.Not once in those twenty two years have I inspected the bearings. I just keep them full of grease, which is so easy. I decided to put a set on my camper so that I could check my grease level at a glance, know that water will never make its way in, easily top off with grease and keep my hubs full, and only have to do a full tear down and inspection of my bearings every four to five years. It’s a no brainer for me. Install can’t be any easier. 700281



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Used these on a tandem axle boat trailer during a recent brake overhaul. Had a little problem with getting the right size, but etrailer was awesome at helping me return the wrong size and get the corrected one. Properly sized, they installed perfectly and look great. Grease covers are an extra nice look. Would definitely recommend. 628855



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Love how easy it is to keep the wheel bearings greased with these Bearing Buddy's. Just pop the cover off, hook up the grease gun, a few quick pumps, and the bearings are ready for another season. The blue inside plate moves out as the grease goes in so you do not over fill the bearing. Slid the cover back on and you are done. 657213



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I bought a used boat with rusty rims leaking at the beads. I ordered 4 new galvanized rims here for 1/2 what I could get them for locally (and I live in Florida, surrounded by boats). The rims are excellent, hot-dipped galvanized, no flaws, mounted easily as they should, and are of very good quality. Some reviewers didn't like the "roughness" of the rims, said they weren't "polished" enough for them. They don't know anything about rims. All galvanized rims are shiny and rough when new, gray and rough when exposed to the air after a while. If you want polished, shiny rims, buy aluminum or chrome steel rims, then spend your weekends washing and waxing them to try and fend off corrosion and rust. I'd rather be boating than cleaning rims any day :-) 134450



- BB1980A-SS
by:

The Bearing Buddies are the best product available for extending bearing life and preventing problems. But more important is the fact that I had an issue that required Etrailer to send me another Bearing Buddy. It was no fault of the product or the company but I had explained the problem to them in an email and it was taken care of NO QUESTIONS ASKED. That alone makes me an Etrailer customer for life and I will be buying all my trailer needs from them....NO QUESTIONS ASKED. Thank you Etrailer. 307861



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I just installed stainless steel bearing buddies on my new zodiac trailer. This product is excellent quality and went in seamlessly with some tapping against a block of wood. The more important reason for this review is my appreciation of the customer service I received form eTrailer. Before turning to eTrailer, I originally purchased a set of bearing buddies locally which were purportedly the same size but did not fit. After trying a size down which were way too small, I finally borrowed a micrometer and purchased the original size buddies from eTrailer. Would have saved myself a lot of trouble had I just gone to eTrailer in the first instance. Customer service was excellent. Katie stayed in touch with me throughout by email and even telephoned me to ensure I was on track and satisfied. Imagine that? No doubt, eTrailer will be my "go to" company for all my trailer needs. 316262



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Great customer service!!! 749863



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I had purchased hubs earlier from e-trailer and wanted to add bearing buddy's. I contacted e-trailer and told then I had got hud earlier and they look up everything and sent me all the info to order the correct bearing buddy. That is customer serviced why I continue to do business with then. Also everything I have purchased is quality items. Thank You e-trailer. 749303



- BB1980A-SS
by:

All of the items I ordered were received very quickly and in great shape. Love dealing with eTrailer; thank you folks! 747491



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Arrived on time and in good shape. 746846



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Easy installation and hub cover still fit after bearing buddy installation. 745485



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Parts arrived early so I was able to put them on in good weather. I have ordered parts from etrailer before and they were excellent and priced right so they were my 1st choice. Everything was great and as expected. Thanks. 739719



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I appreciate fast shipping.....but what I really appreciate is getting the right part at a good price shipped fast......and that is what I get from etrailer…..every time since my first order in 2003. Thanks etrailer. 739468



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Will not go anywhere else to get trailer parts! Great service, knowledgeable, fast delivery and unbeatable prices! Thank you 739436


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Difference Between Bearing Buddy 1980 Models
    The model 1980 Bearing Buddy simply means that they fit a 1.980 inch hub bore. There is one difference of note between Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A (Chrome Plated) or # BB1980A-SS (Stainless Steel) and the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980T-SS which is that the latter - with the "T" in the part number - means that it is threaded and fits internally threaded hubs.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Kit for Carry-On 5X8G Trailer
    Based on my research, your Carry-On 5X8G Trailer uses hubs that have a 1.98 inch diameter pilot hole. With this in mind, the correct Bearing Buddy Kit will be one that fits 1.98 inch hub bores like the part # BB1980A-SS. These will replace the grease cap in the axle hub and prevent wheel-bearing failure by keeping water and dirt out. They will also provide easily accessible grease fittings and makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple. I have included a short installation video...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Bearing Buddy for 2 Inch Hub Bore
    We have a few Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors available that are designed to fit a hub bore of around 2 inches in diameter, but not one that measures 2 inches exactly. I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 so you can take an exact measurement of your existing hub bore. For example, the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS are designed for 1.980 inch diameter hub bores while the Bearing Buddy Protectors # BB2047SS are compatible with hub bores that have a diameter...
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  • Compatible Bearing Buddy to Fit Axle Hubs with Reliable Oil Caps Installed
    When trying to remove the broken Reliable oil cap you may need to use a hammer and a long flat head screwdriver. Placing the screwdriver head on the outer edge of the cap, lightly tap the screwdriver to force cap to turn in the desired direction to remove from the hub. Be careful not to put the screwdriver inside hub to try to remove the cap. It could slip and damage the threads on the inside of the hub. To make sure you will receive the correct Bearing Buddy for your trailer's hubs,...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearing Buddy
    In order to pick out the correct bearing buddy you will need know the pilot hole of your hub. To do this, remove the wheel and tire and remove the grease cap from the center of the hub. Usually it is a metal cap that is just lightly hammered into place. Use a screwdriver to pry off the cap. Clean the grease off and measure the opening. I have included a video demonstrating the Bearing Buddy. The Bearing Buddies # BB1980A-SS that you referenced are for hubs with a 1.98 inch hub bore.
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  • Could/Should Zerk Fitting of EZ Lube Spindle Be Removed to Install Bearing Buddies
    To answer your question...yes, you can rip off the zerk fittings of your spindles so that you could install Bearing Buddies. But you should note that Bearing Buddies commonly allow people to overfill their hubs with grease which then turns into a blown out seal. EZ lube spindles are far superior to Bearing Buddies as they are less prone to over filling and since they place the new grease in the middle of the hub they do a better job getting the grease where it needs to be.
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  • Recommended Seal For Bearing Buddy Protectors
    The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) # BB1980A-SS are designed for that blue seal to expand and eventually have visible grease around that edge. I've attached a video that shows this installation and grease application for you. The grease needing to be applied almost every trip is not normal, so I recommend the Spindle Grease Seal Set # BB60002 to contain your grease with a tight seal intended for this application.
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  • How to Pick out Bearing Buddies
    In order to pick out the correct bearing buddy you will need know the pilot hole of your hub. To do this, remove the wheel and tire and remove the grease cap from the center of the hub. Usually it is a metal cap that is just lightly hammered into place. Use a screwdriver to pry off the cap. Clean the grease off and measure the opening. I have included a video demonstrating the Bearing Buddy. The Bearing Buddies # BB1980A-SS that you referenced are for hubs with a 1.98 inch hub bore.
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  • How to Determine Correct Bearing Buddy
    Though I can tell you how to find the Bearing Buddy you need, a bearing such as # L44649 will not factor into it. Instead, In order to choose the correct Bearing Buddies you will need to measure the hub bores on your trailer's hubs using a digital caliper such as # PTW80157; for example, Bearing Buddies # BB1980A-SS fit a 1.980" hub bore while Bearing Buddies # BB2080SS fit a 2.080" hub bore. I've added a link to our selection of Bearing Buddies for you to check out as well.
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  • How to Identify Correct Bearings and Bearing Buddies for a 2007 Carson 20-Foot Tandem Axle Trailer
    Thank you for providing your trailer year/make/model. In order to know the correct replacement bearings and bearing buddies for your trailer we will need the numbers from your current inner and outer bearings. This is the surest way to identify correct replacements. (Trailer manufacturers may use different bearings from one production run to another so checking the bearings themselves is the best way to know for sure). The only other way is to take exact measurements (with a precision...
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  • Can Hub That Had Bearing Buddy Installed Be Used on Axle With EZ Lube Spindle
    The EZ Lube Spindle features includes a zerk fitting in the end of the spindle and holes in the spindle that allow grease to be injected into the hub bore. The only difference between the hubs we sell for an EZ Lube spindle and a standard spindle is the grease caps. The grease cap for an EZ lube spindle would have a removable rubber plug so you could access the grease zerk without having to remove the grease cap. The grease cap for a standard axle would not have the rubber plug. As long...
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  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Fitting Hub Bore of 1.98 inch
    Since you said the correct grease cap size is 1.98 inch the correct Bearing Buddy you need is part # BB1980A-SS.
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors For Dexter 3,500 Lb Trailer Hub Assembly
    The Bearing Buddies that work with the Trailer Hub Assembly, part # 8-248-50UC1 are part # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel and part # BB1980A for chrome plated. These fit a hub bore that measures 1.98 inches inside diameter. These come with 2 Bearing Buddies in a package. These are a great way to keep water out and making sure you have enough grease in the hub.
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  • How to Pick Out Bearing Buddies for a Small Trailer
    In order to pick out the correct bearing buddy you will need know the pilot hole of your hub. To do this, remove the wheel and tire and remove the grease cap from the center of the hub. Usually it is a metal cap that is just lightly hammered into place. Use a screwdriver to pry off the cap. Clean the grease off and measure the opening. I have included a video demonstrating the Bearing Buddy. The Bearing Buddies # BB1980A-SS that you referenced are for hubs with a 1.98 inch hub bore.
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  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Trailer Hub # 8-248-50UC1
    The Bearing Buddies that work with the Trailer Hub Assembly, part # 8-248-50UC1 are part # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel and part # BB1980A for chrome plated. These fit a hub bore that measures 1.98 inches inside diameter. These come with 2 Bearing Buddies in a package. These are a great way to keep water out and making sure you have enough grease in the hub.
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  • Can Bearing Buddys Install on an EZ Lube Spindle
    If you wanted to install a bearing buddy like the part # BB1980A-SS on a EZ lube spindle you would first need to remove the zerk fitting.
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  • How to Pick Out Bearing Buddies for PWC Trailer
    In order to pick out the correct bearing buddy you will need know the hub bore diameter of your hub. To do this, remove the wheel and tire and remove the grease cap from the center of the hub. Usually it is a metal cap that is just lightly hammered into place. Use a screwdriver to pry off the cap. Clean the grease off and measure the opening. I have included a video demonstrating the Bearing Buddy. The Bearing Buddies # BB1980A-SS are for hubs with a 1.98 inch hub bore.
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  • What is the Length of the 1.980" Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS
    I have linked a picture showing that the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A has a full length of 1-3/16" while the part that inserts into the hub is 5/16". This means that the Bearing Buddy will stick out 7/8" from your hub. The only difference between the Bearing Buddy # BB1980A and the Bearing Buddy # BB1980A-SS that you referenced is that the former is chrome plated while the latter is stainless steel. They both have the same dimensions though.
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  • Replacing Hub for Reliable Sure-Lube Hub on Calkins Boat Trailer
    The brand of hub does not matter but what you do need to match up when selecting a new hub are the weight capacity (based on the axle's rating), the set of bearings used in the hub and the wheel bolt pattern to match your trailer wheels. I linked for you our main page for trailer hubs where you can click on the filters to choose your hub type (idler or hub/drum), axle rating, bearings, weight capacity and other features. For a boat trailer you will be better off with a galvanized type...
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  • Bearing Buddy to Fit Titan Premier Disc Brake Kit # T2HRCM10DAC
    The Titan Premier Disc Brake Kit # T2HRCM10DAC that you referenced has a hub bore of 1.980 inches, so you have identified the correct set of Bearing Buddy grease caps for use with it, part # BB1980A-SS.
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  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation For Kodiak Disc Brake Assembly With 1.98 Inch Hub Bore
    The Bearing Buddy you will need to order for the Kodiak Disc Brake Assembly, part # K1HR35DS, is part # BB1980A-SS. These are designed to work with a hub bore that measures 1.98 inches, and have a lifetime warranty. I have included a link to an installation video you can check out.
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  • Greasing EZ Lube Spindles When Grease Comes Out Cotter Pin Hole
    For your EZ Lube spindles, the replacement cotter pin is just a standard pin as you stated. When you apply grease to the grease zerk on your spindle, you will be forcing grease around that pin. Removing the pin as you stated and backing that castle nut over it will work as will plugging that by hand. Your other option is to remove the grease zerk and add a bearing buddy like # BB1980A-SS that will give you a spring assisted pressure to keep the grease packed. For a Bearing Buddy, you...
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  • Can I Use Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors With an Easy Lube Spindle
    Easy lube spindles are not compatible with Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors. You could use the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors if you remove the zerk fitting. You really do not need Bearing Buddies though. The whole purpose of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors is so that you do not have to remove the grease cap. I have linked a video review of the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors.
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  • Can You Install an EZ Lube Hub and Drum on a Non EZ Lube Axle
    Even though you do not have EZ lube axles you will be able to add EZ lube hubs and drums, however, you will not have the EZ lube feature on his axles by installing the EZ lube hub and drums. For you to be able to easily pack grease into your hubs and drums without an EZ lube axle, you will need Bearing Buddies. These replace the grease cap in the axle hub and will protect your bearings by keeping out water and ensuring enough grease is in the hub. I attached a diagram showing where...
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  • Bearing Buddies to Fit Tandem Axle Trailer with 15 Inch Wheels with 5 on 5 Lug Pattern
    To determine which Bearing Buddy will fit your trailer, we will need to know your outer bearing or race part number. The part number of your outer trailer bearing or race is located on the outer surface. I have included a photo that shows where to look for the part numbers. Once we know your outer bearing or seal number we can then determine the size of the Bearing Buddy protector that will work for you. If you are unable to determine the part numbers, you will need to measure the...
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  • Can Bearing Buddies be Used on Utility Trailer
    As long as you find the correct Bearing Buddy fit for the hub for your utility trailer there's no reason not to. Only reason it wouldn't be needed is if you have EZ lube spindles that have a zerk grease fitting on the end of them. In order to pick out the correct bearing buddy you will need know the pilot hole of your hub. To do this, remove the wheel and tire and remove the grease cap from the center of the hub. Usually it is a metal cap that is just lightly hammered into place. Use...
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  • How to Determine Correct Bearing Buddy for 1994 Ranger Trailer with Outer Race # 68110
    The outer race number you provided, 68110, corresponds to part # L68110 from TruRyde. This race works with bearing # L68149 and has an outer diameter of 2.327 inches. The Bearing Buddy with the closest diameter to this is part # BB2328, which is a chrome-plated pair of bearing protectors that fits a hub bore of 2.328 inches. We also offer a stainless-steel version, part # BB2328SS. You will need to confirm either the outer bearing number from your trailer spindle or take a precise...
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  • Replacement Bearing Buddy Grease Caps for Boat Trailer Used in Salt Water
    It is possible to over-fill a hub when a Bearing Buddy is in use because they make it so easy to pump in wheel bearing grease. Usually the victim of an over-filled hub is the inner grease seal, however, not the Bearing Buddy itself. You'd blow out your inner seal long before you'd push off a Bearing Buddy in normal circumstances. You may have installed the wrong size, or not fully seated them in the hub bore. If your inner grease seals are still intact (no obvious grease leakage) then...
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  • Are Other Parts Needed to Install Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS
    The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors you referenced, part # BB1980A-SS, do not require other parts for installation on your trailer hubs. What is important is that your current trailer hubs have the correct bore for these parts, 1.980-inches as measured with a digital caliper, and that your outer bearing number matches one of the three that are compatible with this Bearing Buddy kit: L-44643, L-44649 or L-44640. Also please note that Bearing Buddies cannot be used on EZ-Lube spindles...
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  • Using Double Lip Seals in Place of Single Lip when Using bearing Buddies
    We will need to use a double lip seal when using Bearing Buddies or a similar product. A single lip seal cannot withstand the pressure and you will have a blowout. For a pair of double lip seals use # RG06-020. These are the same size as your 10-9 seals except they are double lip and not single lip.
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Info for this part was:

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