Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Item # BB1980A-SS

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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BB1980A-SS - Bearing Protector Grease Cap Bearing Buddy Caps
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Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) part number BB1980A-SS can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB1980A-SS

  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • 1.98 Inch
  • Bearing Buddy

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.


Features:

  • Replaces the grease cap in the axle hub
  • Prevents wheel-bearing failure
    • Keeps water and dirt out of hubs and bearings
    • Allows boat trailer wheels to be completely submerged
    • Stops corrosion and pitting on bearings
  • Provides easily accessible grease fitting
    • Makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple
  • Maintains slight, controlled pressure (3 psi) with spring-loaded piston, preventing water from entering hub
  • Allows visual monitoring of grease levels with blue indicator ring
    • Ring sits flush with top of cylinder when full
    • If ring is below top, add grease to move piston outward 1/8"
  • Prevents overfilling and rear seal damage with automatic pressure-relief feature
    • Grease seeps around piston edges and into barrel when full
  • Constructed of stainless steel
    • Ensures longer-lasting fit than plastic or aluminum products
  • Includes rubber covers
  • Installs easily
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Fits 1.980" hub bore
    • Works with outer bearing models L-44643, L-44649 and L-44640
    • Works with outer bearing cup (race) model L44610
      • Commonly found on 2,000-lb, 2,500-lb and 3,500-lb Dexter axles
  • Lifetime warranty


Bearing Buddy installed diagram

Bearing Buddy Operation

Replace your existing grease cap with a Bearing Buddy to ensure a safe, easy way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. To adjust the amount of grease in the hub, use a grease gun to add more through the appropriate fitting. Adding grease moves the Bearing Buddy spring-loaded piston outward 1/8".

The O-ring inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy maintains a seal from the outside. The interior of the Bearing Buddy is pressurized, preventing water from entering the barrel and diluting the grease.

An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that can damage the inner seal.

The blue indicator ring allows you to visually monitor the amount of grease in your hub. The ring should sit flush with the top of the cylinder. If the ring is below the top of the cylinder, add grease until the piston moves 1/8" outward.



42208 Bearing Buddy Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)





Video of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair)


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) - BB1980A-SS

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (449 Customer Reviews)

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.

- BB1980A-SS
by:

Made of what appears to be good quality material, fit well, and accept grease easily. 699456



- BB1980A-SS
by:

These are well made and allow me to keep my boat trailer lubed and ready to roll. 694324



- BB1980A-SS
by:

These grease caps save a lot of time and time is money. No more pulling the wheels and hubs to grease the bearings. Easy installation and a lot better fit than the original caps. Highly recommend. 690184



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Work as advertised, removed the BB the other day to inspect, no sign of water intrusion. BB coupled with the double lip grease seals are the ticket to long bearing life. 680093



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Not much to say, fit as intended, looked good, easy to order, timely delivery 663853



- BB1980A-SS
by:

This is the original BEARING BUDDY made in PUERTO RICO - That's made in America! I have found these to be of unsurpassed quality. The size is critical, and BEARING BUDDY makes their parts to a very high accuracy. I have an old used trailer from the 1970s of unknown origin. I was able to measure the hub hole size with a set of vernier calipers and then find the matching bearing buddy within a few thousandths of an inch. Round your size UP not down, as you can always fine adjust the size with file. I DID NOT have to do any of that, and my BEARING BUDDYs installed easily using a hammer and block of wood. I would give this product a 100% review. It is so convenient to grease your bearings that they should NEVER FAIL due to lack of lubrication. 719438



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Needed hubs for 1958 TEE NEE boat trailer, the old hub was blown apart making it difficult to identify, I called their number and spoke with Donna. You don't often come across a parts rep as personable, experienced and professional, as she guided me to the proper hub set needed. I waited on the review until I had the opportunity to replace the hubs. Happy to say company communication was excellent, delivery was fast and everything fit perfectly and was fairly simple install. Thank you Donna! 692038



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Simply fantastic service. Adjusted my order on the fly and made sure it got to me on time, for a hassle free long-distance trip. Thank you Carol! As for the product -- I went with 1980 SS in the end. Easy to install, load with grease. My trailer's wheels were blissfully silent across an 800 mile round trip. (Now to return the ones I didn't need...) 692547



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I ordered a (difficult to find) trailer wheel hub & a pair of Bearing Buddies to match. I paid only for standard shipping but they arrived promptly in 2 days. The items were safely packaged and appear to be of good quality! I recommend eTrailer as a reliable source for parts! 676698



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Stainless is the only way to go for a boat trailer ! 564488



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Used these on a tandem axle boat trailer during a recent brake overhaul. Had a little problem with getting the right size, but etrailer was awesome at helping me return the wrong size and get the corrected one. Properly sized, they installed perfectly and look great. Grease covers are an extra nice look. Would definitely recommend. 628855



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Love how easy it is to keep the wheel bearings greased with these Bearing Buddy's. Just pop the cover off, hook up the grease gun, a few quick pumps, and the bearings are ready for another season. The blue inside plate moves out as the grease goes in so you do not over fill the bearing. Slid the cover back on and you are done. 657213



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I bought a used boat with rusty rims leaking at the beads. I ordered 4 new galvanized rims here for 1/2 what I could get them for locally (and I live in Florida, surrounded by boats). The rims are excellent, hot-dipped galvanized, no flaws, mounted easily as they should, and are of very good quality. Some reviewers didn't like the "roughness" of the rims, said they weren't "polished" enough for them. They don't know anything about rims. All galvanized rims are shiny and rough when new, gray and rough when exposed to the air after a while. If you want polished, shiny rims, buy aluminum or chrome steel rims, then spend your weekends washing and waxing them to try and fend off corrosion and rust. I'd rather be boating than cleaning rims any day :-) 134450



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Have used these for years and are better than regular but they still fall off on rough roads. Probably because they are heavy. I find the indicators very useful as they let me know when there is grease pressure in the hubs. 150,000 salt water trailer miles without a bearing failure! 198604


Comments

The set was purchased because one of mine fell off the hub. Product works OK but they still leak grease over time and require constant attention to keep appropriately filled. Worst mistake is to completely fill a hub with cold grease . Insures the hot grease will pop off the Buddy or expel the grease.

thlamers - 05/29/2016

18143

- BB1980A-SS
by:

The Bearing Buddies are the best product available for extending bearing life and preventing problems. But more important is the fact that I had an issue that required Etrailer to send me another Bearing Buddy. It was no fault of the product or the company but I had explained the problem to them in an email and it was taken care of NO QUESTIONS ASKED. That alone makes me an Etrailer customer for life and I will be buying all my trailer needs from them....NO QUESTIONS ASKED. Thank you Etrailer. 307861



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I just installed stainless steel bearing buddies on my new zodiac trailer. This product is excellent quality and went in seamlessly with some tapping against a block of wood. The more important reason for this review is my appreciation of the customer service I received form eTrailer. Before turning to eTrailer, I originally purchased a set of bearing buddies locally which were purportedly the same size but did not fit. After trying a size down which were way too small, I finally borrowed a micrometer and purchased the original size buddies from eTrailer. Would have saved myself a lot of trouble had I just gone to eTrailer in the first instance. Customer service was excellent. Katie stayed in touch with me throughout by email and even telephoned me to ensure I was on track and satisfied. Imagine that? No doubt, eTrailer will be my "go to" company for all my trailer needs. 316262



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I have been working on a boat and trailer that I got in a government surplus auction. The trailer is a triple axle and needed quite a bit of work. I replaced one axle and the brake lights. I am in the process of replacing all of the brakes, tires, bearings and seals. I am about half way done with the trailer and so far I have been very happy with the parts I have received from etrailer. I have not been able to road test them yet but installation has been great. I intend on getting a majority of the parts I need to finish the project from etrailer. The video overviews and installation instructions have been very helpful. Looking forward to sharing more pictures when the project is done. 318476



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I have ordered products several times with etrailer.com, they are a very reliable supplier for on time shipping and products exactly as ordered. I do have a couple issues that could affect someone buying this package in the future. Upon arrival, I opened my two BIG boxes of trailer brakes and found quite a lot of shipping damage (Luckily only to all the cardboard boxes, no product damage. It was concerning at first though!) I think it would better if the contents were shipped in smaller boxes so the products are not so heavy for the handlers. Also, since I have done the brake swaps several times before this, I do not require any instructions, which were NOT included in any packaging. It could be a bit challenging for someone that has never done the swap before. One thing to be aware of is NO new lug nuts are shipped with the kits, so if you change from drum to disc, have new lug nuts handy or you cannot re-install your wheel/tire assembly! The products themselves are great! Everything fits perfectly! I do recommend these products to anyone looking to rework any issues with their trailers. 729720



- BB1980A-SS
by:

These are much better then the standard Bearing Buddy. Stainless is worth the extra money. 719845



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Very nice 719624



- BB1980A-SS
by:

great product, easy to install, looks great to. Thank you 716113



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Ordered trailer tires and bearing buddies. Prompt delivery and products look great. Everything installed, time tells all. 715097



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Great product, fast shipping and super easy install. 710552



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Perfect fit and good price. 707510



- BB1980A-SS
by:

good service, good products 707170



- BB1980A-SS
by:

fit perfect and look great 706386



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Easy to install and doing a good job. 705980



- BB1980A-SS
by:

The Buddy-Bearings that I ordered came in good time. Just what I wanted and in good shape, at a fair price. Always had good experience with etrailer. Thank you KS 704927



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Works great. Good price. Very happy. 703008



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Excellent 700507



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I have a set of Bearing Buddy’s that have been on a utility trailer of mine for 22 years. Now granted it doesn’t get a huge amount of miles each year, but it’s a fair amount.Not once in those twenty two years have I inspected the bearings. I just keep them full of grease, which is so easy. I decided to put a set on my camper so that I could check my grease level at a glance, know that water will never make its way in, easily top off with grease and keep my hubs full, and only have to do a full tear down and inspection of my bearings every four to five years. It’s a no brainer for me. Install can’t be any easier. 700281



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Awesome products and super fast shipping a+++++ 705213



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Received with my tire and wheel order. These are the best pressurized hub kits, and worth a few dollars extra. I am very happy with etrailer products and superb service. 694226



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Order was fast , very nice addition to your hubs 693573



- BB1980A-SS
by:

The best and easiest way to keep your trailer or camper lubed. Simple to install and no mess to grease the wheel bearings. 682368



- BB1980A-SS
by:

GREAT PRICE, FAST DELIVERY, WORKED WELL 679350



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Great product and easy to install , super fast delivery 675256



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I always trust etrailer for good quality, complete orders and timely shipping. The price is always competitive and the “how to” videos are wonderful. 674635



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Product as described and highly recomme nd 670375



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Great products, fast service! 667301



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Bearing buddies are a great product. etrailer always has good prices but I wish they were closer to me so delivery time was shorter 664090



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Really enjoy a tight and secure fitting cap to keep water and grease in. 663686



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Everything was exactly as advertised! 663993



- BB1980A-SS
by:

The product is excellent. Delivered on time and as advertised. Would definitely recommend 661383



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Easy to install and followed direction to grease. I now have great confidence in proper bearing protection. 661293



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Fantastic customer service...from Noah personally, and from the company in whole! Great website. Easy to identify correct product. Product id/spec videos are impeccable! 661063



- BB1980A-SS
by:

I bought these bearing buddies as a replacement for my old ones they were regular steel and Rusty I bought the stainless steel ones because they're on my boat trailer and I don't have any more rust problems. Although they are a great product they do tend to have very small grease fittings in other words they take the grease very hard. Other than that they worked perfect 660597



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Awesome product. I use it for my boat trailer It was a very simple and quick installation and came with good instructions. This make wheel bearing lubrication super quick and easy. Highly recommended 659475



- BB1980A-SS
by:

good price (shipping not so good) 657398



- BB1980A-SS
by:

Excellent service and products thanks. 656082


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Recommended Bearing Buddy and Bearing Kit for Malone MicroSport Trailer
  • The Malone MicroSport Trailer # MPG460G does have the 1.98 inch inner diameter hub. I confirmed this with the manufacturer. To add bearing buddies, you simply need the # BB1980A for chrome or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel. You will not need to replace the bearings to install these caps. You can simply use the LubriMatic Economy Size Mini Grease Gun # L30100 and add the marine trailer wheel bearing grease # L11399 that matches what the axle comes with. When installing these, you...
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  • Replacing Electric Brakes and Grease Seals on Dexter 4400-lb Axle
  • Trailer axles with EZ-Lube spindles like # R20384EZ or Bearing Buddy grease caps like # BB1980A-SS do certainly make it a lot easier ensure your hubs are adequately greased, but like many before you (and many that will inevitably follow) you have found out that this feature also makes it easy to accidentally over-fill your hubs with too much grease which can result in blown out grease seals and also contaminated brakes. We can help you with both new seals for your hubs and new electric...
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  • Recommended Spare Parts To Replace UFP Hubs With Rotors And Calipers
  • We don't have the UFP Brand, but I can give you some compatible parts. For your trailer hubs with rotor, I recommend the Kodiak 10" Hub-and-Rotor Assembly - 5 on 4-1/2 - Dacromet - 3,500 lbs # KHR10D. You will need grease seal # RG06-050 along with bearing # L68149 and # L44649. For your brakes, I recommend the Kodiak Ceramic Brake Pads w/Stainless Steel Backing Plate - 3,500 lbs to 6,000 lbs # K225CPSS along with the Kodiak Disc Brake Caliper - Stainless Steel - 3,500 lbs to 6,000...
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  • Replacement Pre-Greased Hubs that Use L44649 Inner and Outer Bearings
  • For a pre-grased hub assembly that will fit the spindles on your trailer perfectly I recommend the CE Smith # CE13315. This assembly is designed for 2,700 pound axles and it includes the # L44649 inner and outer bearings along with the races and grease seal. The hub's galvanized finish will also offer excellent corrosion resistance that's ideal for applications like yours where you will be in and out of salt water. For the correct Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors you will use # BB1980A-SS...
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  • Difference Between Bearing Buddy 1980 Models
  • The model 1980 Bearing Buddy simply means that they fit a 1.980 inch hub bore. There is one difference of note between Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A (Chrome Plated) or # BB1980A-SS (Stainless Steel) and the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980T-SS which is that the latter - with the "T" in the part number - means that it is threaded and fits internally threaded hubs.
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  • Recommended Brake Assemblies for Karavan Boat Trailer with 3500 lb Axle
  • For your brake assemblies, I recommend the Demco Hydraulic Brake Kit - Free Backing - Galvanized - 10" - Left/Right Hand Assemblies - 3.5K # 40716-15. These galvanized assemblies will work very well for saltwater or freshwater use, resisting corrosion. The free backing design allows you to back up without using the lockout on your coupler. This will absolutely fit your 3500 lb axle. For your Bearing Buddies, bearings, and seals, you very likely have the standard size 84 spindle...
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  • Replacement Hub and Bearing Buddys for a 2K Axle on a Boat Trailer
  • Since these idler hubs will be used for a boat trailer I highly recommend going with the etrailer.com Trailer Idler Hub Assembly # AKIHUB-440-2-G-2K over the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly # 8-91-05UC1 because the eatrialer.com option has a galvanized finish that will protect it better than the powder coat finish on the Dexter option. Please note that the seals which come with these have an inner diameter of 1.500" so you will need to use part # 34823 for a grease seal instead as...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit and Bearing Buddy Grease Caps for 2012 Triton LT Trailer with Reliable Axle
  • The owner's manual for the Reliable axle on your Triton PWC trailer indicates that the bearing used on the axle of your weight rating is # L44643. This part serves as both inner and outer bearing according to the manual, which I linked for you. We sell this bearing as an individual part and also as part of a complete bearing kit # BK1-100 which includes 2 of bearing # L44643, 2 of race # L44610, 1 grease seal # 34823 and a cotter pin. You'll need two kits per axle. The hub that uses...
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Kit for Carry-On 5X8G Trailer
  • Based on my research, your Carry-On 5X8G Trailer uses hubs that have a 1.98 inch diameter pilot hole. With this in mind, the correct Bearing Buddy Kit will be one that fits 1.98 inch hub bores like the part # BB1980A-SS. These will replace the grease cap in the axle hub and prevent wheel-bearing failure by keeping water and dirt out. They will also provide easily accessible grease fittings and makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple. I have included a short installation video...
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  • Compatible Bearing Buddy to Fit Axle Hubs with Reliable Oil Caps Installed
  • When trying to remove the broken Reliable oil cap you may need to use a hammer and a long flat head screwdriver. Placing the screwdriver head on the outer edge of the cap, lightly tap the screwdriver to force cap to turn in the desired direction to remove from the hub. Be careful not to put the screwdriver inside hub to try to remove the cap. It could slip and damage the threads on the inside of the hub. To make sure you will receive the correct Bearing Buddy for your trailer's hubs,...
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy for 2 Inch Hub Bore
  • We have a few Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors available that are designed to fit a hub bore of around 2 inches in diameter, but not one that measures 2 inches exactly. I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 so you can take an exact measurement of your existing hub bore. For example, the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS are designed for 1.980 inch diameter hub bores while the Bearing Buddy Protectors # BB2047SS are compatible with hub bores that have a diameter...
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  • Could/Should Zerk Fitting of EZ Lube Spindle Be Removed to Install Bearing Buddies
  • To answer your question...yes, you can rip off the zerk fittings of your spindles so that you could install Bearing Buddies. But you should note that Bearing Buddies commonly allow people to overfill their hubs with grease which then turns into a blown out seal. EZ lube spindles are far superior to Bearing Buddies as they are less prone to over filling and since they place the new grease in the middle of the hub they do a better job getting the grease where it needs to be.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Information on Older EZ Loader Boat Trailer
  • I spoke with my contact at EZ Loader regarding your boat trailer. The correct bearing kit for the axles on your trailer will be the Bearing Kit # BK2-100. This includes the compatible # L44649 outer bearing and # L68149 inner bearing, along with the races and grease seal. For the correct Bearing Buddy, you will use # BB1980A or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel. These will fit hub bores that are 1.980 inches in diameter and works with the above mentioned outer bearing number. The...
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  • Bearing Buddy Sizes Compatible for Hub 2 Inch Inner Diameter
  • There are a couple of sizes close to your 2 inch diameter. If you measured with a digital caliper that goes to the thousandths like # 301-17068 then that will be much easier to determine the fit. We have the 2.047 inch # BB2047 in chrome plated or # BB2047SS in stainless steel. We also have the 2.080 inch # BB2080 in chrome of # BB2080SS in stainless steel. If it is smaller we have the 1.80 inch # BB1980A-SS in stainless steel. The fit should be snug to prevent leaks...
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  • Recommended Seal For Bearing Buddy Protectors
  • The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) # BB1980A-SS are designed for that blue seal to expand and eventually have visible grease around that edge. I've attached a video that shows this installation and grease application for you. The grease needing to be applied almost every trip is not normal, so I recommend the Spindle Grease Seal Set # BB60002 to contain your grease with a tight seal intended for this application.
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  • How Far Can Malone Xtralight Bunks be Set Apart While Folded Flat
  • I spoke with my contact at Malone and they told me that if you had the bunks of the Malone XtraLight LowBed Trailer # MPG527-LB as far apart as they'd go and folded flat you'd have a distance of 40 inches from the outside of one bunk to the outside of the other. For a Bearing Buddy the correct one you'd need is the part # BB1980A or for a stainless steel option # BB1980A-SS.
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  • Which Size Bearing Buddies Fits 3.5K Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly AKHD-545-35-EZ-K
  • For Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 3,500-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 10" Diameter - 5 on 4-1/2 Item # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K you will need a 1.98 Bearing Buddy. There are a couple of options. For stainless steel use # BB1980A-SS. For chrome plated you can use # BB1980A. Another option in a different brand is the Kodiak Red Eye bearing protectors # KREB1980AC. They work the same way as the Bearing Buddies. I have included links below to videos on a Bearing Buddy model and a Kodiak model.
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  • Tire and Axle Differences Between The Yakima Rack and Roll and Easy Rider Trailers
  • I checked with Yakima who confirmed the tires on the Easy Rider Trailer # Y08129 are tubeless and do not require inner tubes like the Rack and Roll # Y08107. Both the Rack and Roll and Easy Rider trailer axles should be greased before installation as part of maintenance but have sealed bearings so would not be a fit for the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A. A third option worth considering is the Malone MicroSport Trailer # MPG460G that also has tubeless tires like the...
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  • Changing from Oil Baths to Bearing Buddies on an EZ Loader Boat Trailer
  • Yes, you will need to replace the inner grease seal when changing from oil baths to the Bearing Buddies. You will also need to make sure that there isn't any grease on the threaded portion of the hubs when installing the Bearing Buddy as this could compromise the seal when using a thread sealer like Permatex. I called EZ Loader and was able to get the information I needed for your trailer using the VIN. However, we do not have a 2-1/8" threaded Bearing Buddy that will work with your...
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  • How to Determine Correct Bearing Buddy
  • Though I can tell you how to find the Bearing Buddy you need, a bearing such as # L44649 will not factor into it. Instead, In order to choose the correct Bearing Buddies you will need to measure the hub bores on your trailer's hubs using a digital caliper such as # PTW80157; for example, Bearing Buddies # BB1980A-SS fit a 1.980" hub bore while Bearing Buddies # BB2080SS fit a 2.080" hub bore. I've added a link to our selection of Bearing Buddies for you to check out as well.
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  • Bearing Kit to Replace Timken 07100 Bearings on a Boat Trailer
  • Your Timken 07100 bearings have the same dimensions as bearing # L44643. They both have a 1 inch inner diameter and fit a BT8 spindle. The correct bearing kit is part # BK1-100. The Bearing Buddy protector to fit is part # BB1980A-SS in stainless steel or # BB1980A in chrome.
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  • How to Identify Correct Bearings and Bearing Buddies for a 2007 Carson 20-Foot Tandem Axle Trailer
  • Thank you for providing your trailer year/make/model. In order to know the correct replacement bearings and bearing buddies for your trailer we will need the numbers from your current inner and outer bearings. This is the surest way to identify correct replacements. (Trailer manufacturers may use different bearings from one production run to another so checking the bearings themselves is the best way to know for sure). The only other way is to take exact measurements (with a precision...
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  • New Brake Assemblies, Hub/Drums, Brake Lines, and Bearing Buddy for Trailer with 3,500 lb Axle
  • For as trashed as those brake assemblies are I am impressed with how spotless that spindle is! Based on the bearing numbers you mentioned you have a #84 spindle and the hub part # AKHD-545-35-G-K is correct. Since this its galvanized it's a really great option as it will fight corrosion. The flexible brake line kits like the part # 18SI-BLKIT is what I would go with. They are just as durable as anything else and a lot easier to install. The brake assemblies # AKFBBRK-35R-D and # AKFBBRK-35L-D...
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  • Can Hub That Had Bearing Buddy Installed Be Used on Axle With EZ Lube Spindle
  • The EZ Lube Spindle features includes a zerk fitting in the end of the spindle and holes in the spindle that allow grease to be injected into the hub bore. The only difference between the hubs we sell for an EZ Lube spindle and a standard spindle is the grease caps. The grease cap for an EZ lube spindle would have a removable rubber plug so you could access the grease zerk without having to remove the grease cap. The grease cap for a standard axle would not have the rubber plug. As long...
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  • Replacement Hub and Easy Lubrication Kit for 2,000 lb Axle
  • Unfortunately there are no oil bath hubs available for your specific application. The only ones that are made fit larger hubs. If you would like a solution that is easier than standard grease application (packing your bearings) then I recommend going with some Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors. These are perfect for solutions where EZ Lube spindles aren't in place as they provide a grease zerk fitting as well as a way to see when you have pumped enough grease into your hub space (see...
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  • What is the Difference Between the Tekonsha # 118249 and the Curt C55593 for a 2009 Mazda CX-7
  • If you already have the plug-in that is behind the passenger side trim panel then I recommend going with the Tekonsha # 118249 over the Curt # C55593 for your 2009 Mazda CX-7. These are essentially the same product, but we have found that the Tekonsha products tend to be the most reliable when it comes to wiring and electronics. I have attached an installation video of this wiring harness being installed on a 2008 CX-7 for you to reference. When it comes to choosing the correct Bearing...
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  • Recommended Galvanized Hubs For Utility Trailer Used For Aluminum Boat Launching
  • For your utility trailer, I recommend the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,000-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 - Galvanized # AKIHUB-545-2-G-1K since you use it for boat launching. This assembly will include all of your bearings, races, and grease seal. Your current bearing buddy caps will work with these hubs. If you need a new set, I recommend the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A-SS w/ Auto Check - Stainless Steel (Pair) # BB1980A-SS. If you want a heavier duty grease seal you...
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