Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Item # BK1-100

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Shipping Weight: 0.63 lbs

Arrives before Christmas with Ground or 3 Day Shipping.
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal part number BK1-100 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (356)
  • Q & A (65)
  • Videos (2)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK1-100

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44643
  • Race L44610


Features:

  • Kit includes: 1 inner bearing, 1 outer bearing, 1 grease seal, 1 cotter pin and 2 races
    • L44610 Race fits L44643 and L44649
  • Double lip grease seal
    • Provides an upgrade compared to a single lip seal
    • Reinforced spring behind the lip does a better job of retaining the grease inside the hub and excluding water and road grime
Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
L44643
L44643
34823
1.249"


BK1-100 Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal







Video of Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal - BK1-100

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (356 Customer Reviews)


- BK1-100
by:

My most recent purchase was for a set of bearings, races and seal for a small trailer. I just put them in a tool box with a grease gun and bearing packer to carry along on my 600 mile commute. I have confidence the bearings will fit since I previously purchased a full set of bearings and a replacement hub for a larger tandem axle trailer. I used a caliper to measure what I had in each case and then went through the friendly web site to make my purchase. I have been around many years but in few, if any, other purchase experiences have I been surprised by prices LOWER than what I expected. Who needs the "good old days" before internet. Thanks George! 299418



- BK1-100
by:

Instead of writing a product review of bearings, grease seals, cotter pins, and a dust cap installer, I'll do a review of etrailers. How much is there really to be said about trailer wheel bearings, grease seals, cotter pins, and dust cap installers; except for how great it is to have a convenient and efficient supplier of this hardware? Besides, the specific question asked in the email that sent the survey was, "What do you wish you knew about your products while you were shopping?" First of all, I think etrailer.com is great. Specialty stores are becoming a think of the past, and etrailers does a great job of not only offering the products needed to maintain and repair a trailer, but also providing the technical information needed to do it properly. I bought a new trailer that had been a display model at a "Big Box" hardware store, which ended up having been assembled incorrectly; including having the wheel bearings not adjusted properly (they were over tightened), and one of them burned up just on the way home. etrailers.com has been invaluable for sorting the trailer out and getting it assembled properly. My only suggesting would be some information regarding the different grades and styles of grease available for wheel bearings. This latest order is because of a decision to repack my bearings with a higher grade of grease than what was locally available; at least, from what I could find. 26010



- BK1-100
by:

These bearings seemed to be of excellent quality and fit the existing housings perfectly. I watched the video and had no trouble installing them.E Trailer is a first class company that I have used before and will certainly use again. I highly recommend them as a reliable quality supplier. On top of all that their prices are very reasonable and delivery is prompt. Thanks E trailer! 178811



- BK1-100
by:

i ordered 3 bearing kits and after arriving late they were just bearings races and seals loose in a zip-lock bag not what i had ordered the picture showed them in a nice neat pack so you could hang them on the shed wall till you needed them at a later time and would all be together protected from dust but no these were loose not real happy right now things are alot easier to keep up with when there in a kit not a plastic bag 29923



- BK1-100
by:

Can't beat the prices and product selection. I was able to get bearings, races and seals to do two hubs for what I would have paid to do one locally. Although the bearing kits were made in China, they appeared to be a better quality bearing than the China bearings I removed from the hubs. No issues with packaging or shipping. Not only can one find parts here but, lots of good info and support as well. 294374


Comments

The trailer I installed the parts on belongs to my 93 yr old neighbor. Needless to say, it is used very little. He and his son were planning on using it and wanted me to check it out before doing so. Thats when I discovered the need for new bearings and seals. He also wanted it road worthy for any of the neighbors that might need to borrow it. However, what time it has been used, it has done exceptionally well. Very smooth and quiet and although I had a bit of difficulty getting the pigtail to plug into the connection on the truck, all lights are working for the first time in many years. Thank you for checking in on us. Have a blessed day.

Trent - 10/23/2017

29816

- BK1-100
by:

Dear Sir, I was completely satisfied with the bearing kit. I replaced the bearings in the front fork of my zero turn lawnmower. They were a perfect fit and quite a great value when compared to other listings on the internet. Also the service was prompt. I ordered during the 4th of July weekend and didn't expect the shipment to be as timely as it was. I received my order in Virginia on the following Saturday and did not use express shipping. My compliments to your way of doing business and will order again when necessary. This was a very successful transaction. Respectfully, Don 271332



- BK1-100
by:

I was very pleased with the product I ordered. It arrived early, was the right part and helped out tremendously with my project. I would recommend etrailer anytime! 596972



- BK1-100
by:

This is the 2nd set of bearings, races, seals & cotter pins kit I purchased from etrailer & both sets rear great, everything you need comes with the kit so you can make old rusty, pitted bearings nice & new again. Once I packed the bearings I installed the races, bearings, nuts & cotter pins & Bearing Buddies & went for a little 50 mile ride to make sure everything was OK, & it was. Trailer pulled like a dream & the hubs never got even warn. I'll probably do the same thing with my 3rd trailer but that won't be until spring now, my wife wants her side of the garage back so she can put her van in there. Thanks chuck 592756



- BK1-100
by:

Last week I started thinking about my kayak trailer and what repairs needed to be completed before the spring and summer usage. In 2011 I converted a small sailboat trailer to a two place kayak trailer. I ordered bearing kits wheels and tires at that time from e trailer. Every year I pull the wheels and grease the bearings and I install new grease seals. Last year when I was doing my maintenance I found that the bearing races were lightly rusted and pitted because the trailer was buried under a large snowfall. The bearings were fine and I cleaned up the races with steel wool. I decided I would replace everything come winter. I ordered bearing caps to replace my old dented caps hoping that this will keep the bearings dryer. I made a place in the garage to keep the trailer from the weather. I placed a call to you guys and was greeted by a very friendly voice on the other end of the phone. Brandon was able to find my past order saving me time and effort. (My filing system could be better.) He was able to e-mail me copies of my previous orders and shortly there after I placed my order on line for new bearing kits and a few extra seals and well you know the rest. I tell everyone about the excellent service I get from etrailer.com. keep up the good work. 344088


Comments

Its very nice that you would follow up. The products I purchased performed perfectly. I am only able to purchase the double lip seals through you. I cannot find them localy. Thank you for selling a superior product.

Bruce - 02/26/2018

35187

- BK1-100
by:

Just what I needed. Thank you 729261



- BK1-100
by:

Got what I ordered it was correct and f ast 728072



- BK1-100
by:

Order came very quickly, install and test this morning. PERFECT!!! [Thumbs up] 724555



- BK1-100
by:

Installed and seem to work just fine. 713923



- BK1-100
by:

I needed bearings and seals for the rear(drag) wheels for my shredder. I did not realize it at the time they were standard trailer hubs. I measured tho old bearings and seals and ordered them from a website that came up offering the size I needed After ordering I discovered they would be coming from China with estimated delivery 2 to 3 weeks. Shortly after ordering a pop-up ad came up from etrailer offering the same items in a package for trailer axles I placed a order and received it four days later and yes at a lower price. I have bought frome etrailer before and have been very satisfied with them. 715305



- BK1-100
by:

good service, good products 713863



- BK1-100
by:

Easy to use website, parts shipped & received faster than I expected. Order was 100% complete. Can't wait to install. Thanks for the quick service. Randall 705812



- BK1-100
by:

Parts were exactly as described. Packaged nicely and received in good condition. First time that I have ever used Chinese branded bearings/races, so I will provide a review about them at my next bearing clean and repack. They were a great fitting bearing on the axle stub. 707079



- BK1-100
by:

Good description of parts and shipped on time. 703307



- BK1-100
by:

Trailer wheel bearings. Fast delivery - good bearings. A year ago bought trailer hitch for car which works perfectly particularly the light kit to work with my car model 706697



- BK1-100
by:

Service, products and prices are excell ent. 700386



- BK1-100
by:

Great products and fairly fast shipping. 698918



- BK1-100
by:

The bearing kit came complete and several days sooner than expected with free shipping. The parts fit perfectly and are now installed. I've gotten several items from etrailer and have never been disappointed. Very nice company to do business with. 698547



- BK1-100
by:

Excellent service.quality parts!prompt service and detailed information!!! 693924



- BK1-100
by:

Product arrived faster than I expected. It was exactly what I had ordered and what I needed. The most difficult part of installation was removing the old races, the new ones went in easily with the help of etrailers videos. I had both hubs rebuilt and the trailer back on the road 3 hrs after the package arrived. Quality seemed good and everything ran smoothly and fit perfectly. 690357



- BK1-100
by:

No problems, exactly what I ordered, with choice of delivery dates. I used them before and I will again. 682357



- BK1-100
by:

These are original equipment manufacturer parts for my County Line splitter that I got from Tractor Supply. They were the perfect replacement, and work just fine. 680749



- BK1-100
by:

Thanks for your help... 673254



- BK1-100
by:

E-Trailer has always had what I needed at a reasonable price. The trailer bearings were no different. 672238



- BK1-100
by:

see above 671903



- BK1-100
by:

Received promptly as advertised 669095



- BK1-100
by:

Good product,Good price and good shipping service. Quite pleased. Thank You! Worked great on older trailer application. 668821



- BK1-100
by:

I have purchased more than 1 set of bearings from this company mainly due to price & quality. Both boat trailers that I rebuilt I just ordered the whole kit & never had a problem, new is better. I've had no problems with either one. chuck 666500



- BK1-100
by:

Thanks Carol C for your job . I got package in time and excellent condition. 661285



- BK1-100
by:

Great product and high quality. Had no issues with the installation and have had no issues since 657113



- BK1-100
by:

good product good price I installed and are working as they should 649550



- BK1-100
by:

Exactly what I wanted and at a reasonable price 647016



- BK1-100
by:

Fast Shipping and Great product! 644160



- BK1-100
by:

I have ordered several times. I’m very satisfied with all the things I have bought. Shipping is very fast and free with $100 or more so I always order when I need enough items to meet the $100 mark. I highly recommended etrailer 639251



- BK1-100
by:

Great products at a good cost. Items were delivered early which was a surprise. Thx. guys 633706



- BK1-100
by:

I was able to easily install bearings. They arrived as expected. I put over 500 miles on this set of bearings with no issues. I towed my trailer last fall for opening day of duck season with confidence knowing I had new bearings!!! 617463



- BK1-100
by:

Just what I needed 612687



- BK1-100
by:

No issues, product as described. Not used on a trailer, cross referenced bearings/races/seal and used to replace caster bearings on an Exmark Lazer HP zero turn mower. Much cheaper than ordering OEM parts and bearings are of the similar quality. 612247



- BK1-100
by:

Nice snug fit. I just installed the kit today so that's about the extent of my review. 610012



- BK1-100
by:

Product was a perfect fit. It exactly what I needed for my 1 inch boat trailer axle. I will use this site again when I need trailer parts for sure. 604453



- BK1-100
by:

As described perfect replacement 601186



- BK1-100
by:

Thanks have a good day. 599888



- BK1-100
by:

The bearings and caps were easy to install and have worked flawlessly in harsh off road conditions all year. As usual very pleased with ettailers pricing, install assistance and overall customer service. 598222



- BK1-100
by:

Arrived in a timely manner. Fit perfect ly 593694



- BK1-100
by:

These bearing and seal sets were easy to install and fit like a glove. I have only used the trailer a dozen times or so since installing them, but, it was always for high speed highway driving. There was no leakage from the seals and using Bearing Buddies they do have some minor pressure on them. I own 3 trailer of different sizes and I used these sets on them all with no problems. Great product for the price! 590716



- BK1-100
by:

Excellent product and quick delivery. I would recommend your company to others. 589712


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  • Inspecting Trailer Spindle and Locating Replacement Bearings for Used Trailer
  • The small cut that you noticed when inspecting the spindle on your trailer can cause bearings and seals to wear out very quickly (even extremely small ones). A quick test to see if a replacement spindle is in order is to simply run your fingernail across the spindle. If it catches as you run along the mentioned cut/nick, replacing the spindle will be your best option. I am not aware of a bearing that features an inner diameter of 1.125 inches like what you mentioned. With that being...
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy and Bearing Kit for Malone MicroSport Trailer
  • The Malone MicroSport Trailer # MPG460G does have the 1.98 inch inner diameter hub. I confirmed this with the manufacturer. To add bearing buddies, you simply need the # BB1980A for chrome or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel. You will not need to replace the bearings to install these caps. You can simply use the LubriMatic Economy Size Mini Grease Gun # L30100 and add the marine trailer wheel bearing grease # L11399 that matches what the axle comes with. When installing these, you...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit and Bearing Buddy Grease Caps for 2012 Triton LT Trailer with Reliable Axle
  • The owner's manual for the Reliable axle on your Triton PWC trailer indicates that the bearing used on the axle of your weight rating is # L44643. This part serves as both inner and outer bearing according to the manual, which I linked for you. We sell this bearing as an individual part and also as part of a complete bearing kit # BK1-100 which includes 2 of bearing # L44643, 2 of race # L44610, 1 grease seal # 34823 and a cotter pin. You'll need two kits per axle. The hub that uses...
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  • Replacement Brakes and Bearings for 1993 Mastercraft Boat Trailer
  • Before you choose brakes or bearings you should verify what's currently on your trailer. If it is a 3,500 pound axle part # AKEBRK-35-SA will likely fit if the trailer has electric drum brakes. Both sides are included and labeled. They're also self-adjusting so you only need to set the adjustment when you first install them and then leave them alone. You can measure the inner diameter of your drums to find if this fit or not. One of two bearing kits is likely what you need. You should...
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  • Bearing Kit to Replace Timken 07100 Bearings on a Boat Trailer
  • Your Timken 07100 bearings have the same dimensions as bearing # L44643. They both have a 1 inch inner diameter and fit a BT8 spindle. The correct bearing kit is part # BK1-100. The Bearing Buddy protector to fit is part # BB1980A-SS in stainless steel or # BB1980A in chrome.
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  • Replacement Bearings for 2004 Viking Epic Series M-1906
  • In order to confirm the correct replacement bearings for your 2004 Viking Epic Series M-1906 we need to know your axle capacity. The axle capacity can be found on a sticker located in the center of the axle tube. I have attached a list of options for you below: 2,000 Lb Axle Capacity - part # BK1-100 2,200 Lb Axle Capacity - part # BK1-150 3,500 Lb Axle Capacity - part # BK2-100 I took a look at the weight of your trailer and it would be most likely that you have a 2,000 lb axle...
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  • Is the Bearing Kit # BK1-100 Correct for my Trailer
  • The closest bearing and seal that we have to what you measured is found in the bearing kit # BK1-100 which is for a BT8 spindle. It comes with 2 bearings, 2 races, 1 grease seal, and a cotter pin. The bearing part # L44643 is for both the inner and outer bearing. It has an inner diameter of 1.000" while the included race, part # L44610, has an outer diameter of 1.98" which sounds like what you have. For the seal in the kit we have part # 34823 which has an inner diameter of 1.249"...
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  • Is Washer Needed When Installing BT8 Bearing Kit on Trailer Axle
  • While the BT8 Bearing Kit part # BK1-100 does not come with a washer you would still need to use a washer like the part # 5-23. If you are having a hard time getting the nut to thread on with the washer installed you'd need make sure the inner bearing is all the way seated on the spindle and doesn't need to be installed further onto it. For more info on this I attached video that covers this as well.
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  • Bearing Kit for Dexter 8-259 Trailer Hub
  • Most of the 8-259 Dexter hubs use L44649 inner and outer bearings. For that you would need bearing kit # BK1-150. The seal included with this kit has an inner diameter of 1.50 inches. I have linked a video showing an example installation.
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  • Bearing Kit for 2,000 Pound Utility Trailer
  • I believe the bearing kit you will need will be part # BK1-100. However, I was unable to exactly cross reference your seal number. I recommend measuring your spindle to find the inner diameter of the seal you need, as well as measuring your seal to find the outer diameter. To get the most precise measurement possible, it is best to measure with a digital caliper. I have attached a diagram showing the location of the grease seal seat that will give you the inner diameter needed for your...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal # 501544 That Matches Seal # 34823
  • Since the measurements of your existing seal are identical to # 34823 then it will work on your trailer. It should also be a 1/4 inch thick. If both your bearings are # L44643 then you can get the entire Bearing Kit # BK1-100.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit Recommendation For Boat Trailer
  • We do offer a kit that replaces the bearings, races and seals for 1 inch BT8 spindles. It is kit # BK1-100. This kit contains 2 # L44643 bearings, 2 # L44610 races, 1 # 34823 seal, and 1 cotter pin. The inside diameter of the seal is 1.249 inches. I was unable to find the cross reference number for a 12124 seal. If you are unsure about the inside diameter of the seal, you can look for the number on the side of the seal you have, or you can use a precision instrument like a dial caliper...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation to Fit BT8 Spindle
  • Are they close to the dimensions of the # R104BT8 or are they exactly the same? They would need to be the exact same. .99 for where the outer bearing rides, .99 for inner bearing, and 1.25 for where the seal rides. The correct bearing kit for this would then be the # BK1-100.
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  • Recommended Bearing Kit For 2,000 Lb Boat Trailer Axle
  • The bearing kit you need for your trailer is part # BK1-100. This will include L44643 inner and outer bearings, and the seal with a 1.249 inside diameter. The kit also includes the races and a cotter pin. If you are replacing both sides of the trailer you will need 2 of these kits to complete the job. I have attached a helpful article that explains how to replace the hub kits you can check out.
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  • Recommendation For Bearing Kit For Malone Microsport Trailer
  • Based on the information you sent, it sounds like you have an inner and outer bearing like Item # L44643. I called the manufacturer and they told me that the hub bore is 1.98 inches which matches a double lip grease seaI like Item # 34823. If these match your trailer's parts then I recommend Bearing Kit Item # BK1-100 which contains everything that you will need. Before taking further action, I want to encourage you to double check the bearing sizes so that you get the correct bearings...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit Needed for a 10ft 1995 Triton Lite Trailer
  • It looks like the 10 ft Triton Lite trailers were built with 2,000 lb Dexter axles. There are two bearing kits we carry that may work for you and the best way to determine which kit is the correct kit for your trailer is to compare the part numbers of your current bearings with the part numbers of the bearing kits. Bearing Kit, # BK1-150, uses L44649 inner and outer bearings. Bearing Kit, # BK1-100, uses L44643 inner and outer bearings. The part number of the bearings will be stamped into...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Trailer with BT8 Spindle
  • Based on what you listed it sounds like you have a BT8 spindle. That would mean you have a seal dimension on your spindle of 1.24 inches and .99 inches where the bearings ride. That means for a bearing kit you would need # BK1-100.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit For 1.25 Inch Diameter Spindle
  • With your 1.25 inch spindle, if you just need the bearings, seal, and races, you can use the Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle # BK1-100. If you want to replace the idler hub, you most likely can use the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,000-lb Axles - 4 on 4 # AKIHUB-440-2-1K. These will fit a spindle with 1.25 inch measurement at the grease seal and 1 inch measurement at the inner and outer bearings. To confirm a fit, I recommend putting a digital caliper like # PTW80157 on your spindles....
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  • Do Bearings Have a Speed Rating
  • If you have a standard 3,500 lb axle and the spindle is about an inch in diameter then the correct inner and outer bearings for you are # L44643 which have a 1" inner diameter exactly. This can be found in the kit # BK1-100. If your spindle is smaller than an inch then you probably have a smaller spindle that is not standard (which would make sense on an older trailer). When choosing replacement bearings it is always important to measure the spindle where the bearings ride to the 3rd...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Dexter 2,000 lb Axle
  • Since the Dexter 2,000 lb axle is very popular we know exactly what bearings it needs. The part # BK1-100 is a kit that includes the needed bearings of L44643, new races, and a seal.
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  • Replacement Bearings And Seals For Single Axle Trailer
  • The best way to find replacement bearings and seals for your axle is to find the numbers on the bearings and seals you removed from your axle. I have attached a photo that shows where you can typically find the numbers. The diameter of the axle at 25 mm would be .9842 inches. I am unable to find a bearing with that size inside diameter. The bearing kit we offer for a 1 inch axle is part # BK1-100. This has an inner bearing(L44643, inside diameter of 1.00 inches), outer bearing(L44643),...
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  • How to Pick Out a Bearing Kit for a Trailer Hub
  • You will need to remove your hub, remove the seal and get the bearing numbers and seal numbers from what you have right now and then you will be able to pick out the correct kit. I attached a picture that shows bearings, races, and seals where you can see the numbers stamped on them as well as see the dimensions needed for seal replacement. I also attached a video on bearing, inspection and replacement for you to check out. Once you know what you have check out the link I provided...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit Recommendation for Viking Popup Trailer with Dexter EZ Lube Spindles
  • Can you get me the diameter of the axle or the capacity if you can find it? Most likely it's a 2k axle and the kit part # BK1-100 would be the correct kit to use but I'd need to verify that for sure. The correct diameter axle for a 2k axle would be 1-3/4 inch.
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings for a Trailer
  • I wasn't able to cross reference the bearing kit number you listed with anything we offer, but since you said the axle is a dexter axle we most likely do carry the parts you would need. You will need to remove the hubs to either get the numbers off of the bearings or use a digital or dial caliper to get exact measurements of the spindle where the bearings ride.
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  • Recommended Grease For Packing Bearings
  • The Bearing Kit for 1 inch BT8 Spindle, part # BK1-100 does not come with the bearing grease included. We have the bearing grease available in several different size containers. I have attached a link to our product page for the bearing grease we have available you can check out. To make it easy to pack the bearings I recommend a LubriMatic Deluxe Bearing Packer, part # L70025. This has a fitting at the top that you can use a hand operated or power grease gun with. I have also...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
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Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Installed by:
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Video Edited:
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Updated by:
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