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Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Item # BK1-100
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal Standard Bearings,Bearing Kits BK1-100
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal part number BK1-100 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-1624 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK1-100

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 2500 lbs Axle
  • Bearing L44643
  • etrailer
  • Race L44610


Features:

  • Kit includes: 1 inner bearing, 1 outer bearing, 1 grease seal, 1 cotter pin and 2 races
    • L44610 Race fits L44643 and L44649
  • Double lip grease seal
    • Provides an upgrade compared to a single lip seal
    • Reinforced spring behind the lip does a better job of retaining the grease inside the hub and excluding water and road grime
Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
L44643
L44643
34823
1.249"


BK1-100 Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal





Video of Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal - BK1-100

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (459 Customer Reviews)


- BK1-100
by:

Last week I started thinking about my kayak trailer and what repairs needed to be completed before the spring and summer usage. In 2011 I converted a small sailboat trailer to a two place kayak trailer. I ordered bearing kits wheels and tires at that time from e trailer. Every year I pull the wheels and grease the bearings and I install new grease seals. Last year when I was doing my maintenance I found that the bearing races were lightly rusted and pitted because the trailer was buried under a large snowfall. The bearings were fine and I cleaned up the races with steel wool. I decided I would replace everything come winter. I ordered bearing caps to replace my old dented caps hoping that this will keep the bearings dryer. I made a place in the garage to keep the trailer from the weather. I placed a call to you guys and was greeted by a very friendly voice on the other end of the phone. Brandon was able to find my past order saving me time and effort. (My filing system could be better.) He was able to e-mail me copies of my previous orders and shortly there after I placed my order on line for new bearing kits and a few extra seals and well you know the rest. I tell everyone about the excellent service I get from etrailer.com. keep up the good work.


Comments
Its very nice that you would follow up. The products I purchased performed perfectly. I am only able to purchase the double lip seals through you. I cannot find them localy. Thank you for selling a superior product.
Bruce - 02/26/2018



- BK1-100
by:

Ordered these for my old trailer hubs with one inch axels but they did not fit the hubs. Ended up ordering new hub assemblies from another vender at a lower price. Still have the bearing kits. Wasn't allowed to send them back because I had opened the package. Measure EVERYTHING on your old parts before ordering anything to make sure the new parts will fit.



- BK1-100
by:

this bearing kit is for incase of a on the road bearing failure happens. i replaced the hubs when i bought the trailer as the former owner thought wheel bearings needed to be tightened as much as he could [the new hubs i bought from you are great, so far i dont need the spare bearings thanks for having spare parts i may need]



- BK1-100
by:

Great company! Simple ordering online, they mailed the products a few days later, got the items a week from when I ordered. Will order again from them. Everything went great!


Comments
Great!
Ted - 11/19/2021


- BK1-100
by:

My order arrived and I was ready to install the bearing kits which, according to the web site we an exact match to the Timken 07100 bearings that I removed. Assembled everything and lowered the trailer back to the ground and for some reason, the tires were rubbing against the springs. I used the existing races that were in the hubs as they were not damaged. Also, the hubs were too short now for the cotter pin to lock the hex nut on the axle. The caps supplied with the order do not fit as well. Unfortunately, buying bearings for an older trailer is a study in frustration. Please note that Korren was very helpful walking me through some issues with my order and, it finally arrived as ordered. Unfortunately, my trailer wass a custom built trailer for my specific boat, it dates back to the 60's and apparently it is difficult, if not impossible, to find parts for the hubs. I have ordered from etrailer before and have been very pleased with their service. I believe the problem with this order rests with my trailer.



- BK1-100
by:

Easy to install and will outlast the rest of this trailer. Good product.



- BK1-100
by:

Seemed to be good quality, fit my trailer, works well.



- BK1-100
by:

Just installed the bearings, but haven’t used the trailer yet. Perfect fit and nice and smooth, good parts and as discribbed. Good price


Comments
It’s been a year and the bearings are working fine. Just what needed!
Wayne - 06/03/2021


- BK1-100
by:

Simple and easy way to order and receive parts. The part description was clear and concise. Love the parts description videos.



- BK1-100
by:

Perfect!! Excellent quality,super fast shipping!Etrailer gets it right everytime.



- BK1-100
by:

Fit perfect on my 1960's tent trailer converted to a tear drop



- BK1-100
by:

Missing cotter pins


Comments
Hi Stephen, Thanks for the feedback! Our customer service team will be reaching out to you.
-- Etrailer Expert Tyler M - 07/21/2021


- BK1-100
by:

Once I pulled the old bearing and identified the number inscribed I was able to search the internet. Only etrailer listed a complete kit of the bearing, race and seal cap as well as a new cotter pin. The kit price was also surprisingly very reasonable. Delivery was on time and tracking was excellent.



- BK1-100
by:

They have a easy button! Quick excellent service getting bearings and a seal for my sidecar!



- BK1-100
by:

Seems to be good product i haven't put alot of miles on them but i have put a few on them and as of now there holding up good have no play on either wheel.good price also thanks.



- BK1-100
by:

Can't beat the prices and product selection. I was able to get bearings, races and seals to do two hubs for what I would have paid to do one locally. Although the bearing kits were made in China, they appeared to be a better quality bearing than the China bearings I removed from the hubs. No issues with packaging or shipping. Not only can one find parts here but, lots of good info and support as well.


Comments
The trailer I installed the parts on belongs to my 93 yr old neighbor. Needless to say, it is used very little. He and his son were planning on using it and wanted me to check it out before doing so. Thats when I discovered the need for new bearings and seals. He also wanted it road worthy for any of the neighbors that might need to borrow it. However, what time it has been used, it has done exceptionally well. Very smooth and quiet and although I had a bit of difficulty getting the pigtail to plug into the connection on the truck, all lights are working for the first time in many years. Thank you for checking in on us. Have a blessed day.
Trent - 10/23/2017



- BK1-100
by:

These bearing and seal sets were easy to install and fit like a glove. I have only used the trailer a dozen times or so since installing them, but, it was always for high speed highway driving. There was no leakage from the seals and using Bearing Buddies they do have some minor pressure on them. I own 3 trailer of different sizes and I used these sets on them all with no problems. Great product for the price!


Comments
no problems at all! Bearings still quiet and seals not leaking!
Douglas P - 12/15/2019



- BK1-100
by:

The bearing kit seemed to work out just fine. I put everything together today. The only thing I wondered about was the relatively small cotter pins, but they still worked all right. Before I placed the order, I was having difficulty identifying the seals. I could not find a match anywhere for numbers on the old ones. After calipering everything and talking to you by phone, your advice for the 34823 seal was correct. Thanks for your technical help and providing a good quality product.



- BK1-100
by:

More dimensions on the cut sheets would be great



- BK1-100
by:

My most recent purchase was for a set of bearings, races and seal for a small trailer. I just put them in a tool box with a grease gun and bearing packer to carry along on my 600 mile commute. I have confidence the bearings will fit since I previously purchased a full set of bearings and a replacement hub for a larger tandem axle trailer. I used a caliper to measure what I had in each case and then went through the friendly web site to make my purchase. I have been around many years but in few, if any, other purchase experiences have I been surprised by prices LOWER than what I expected. Who needs the "good old days" before internet. Thanks George!



- BK1-100
by:

Instead of writing a product review of bearings, grease seals, cotter pins, and a dust cap installer, I'll do a review of etrailers. How much is there really to be said about trailer wheel bearings, grease seals, cotter pins, and dust cap installers; except for how great it is to have a convenient and efficient supplier of this hardware? Besides, the specific question asked in the email that sent the survey was, "What do you wish you knew about your products while you were shopping?" First of all, I think etrailer.com is great. Specialty stores are becoming a think of the past, and etrailers does a great job of not only offering the products needed to maintain and repair a trailer, but also providing the technical information needed to do it properly. I bought a new trailer that had been a display model at a "Big Box" hardware store, which ended up having been assembled incorrectly; including having the wheel bearings not adjusted properly (they were over tightened), and one of them burned up just on the way home. etrailers.com has been invaluable for sorting the trailer out and getting it assembled properly. My only suggesting would be some information regarding the different grades and styles of grease available for wheel bearings. This latest order is because of a decision to repack my bearings with a higher grade of grease than what was locally available; at least, from what I could find.



- BK1-100
by:

Replaced bearings, races, and seals + installed bearing buddies on my boat trailer. Everything went together without any problems.



- BK1-100
by:

Came guickly, just whatl wanted( been swamped with chores so haven't installed them yet



- BK1-100
by:

Thank you! Fast shipping!



- BK1-100
by:

Great and fast service! Thank you so mu ch!


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Bearings and Hub for Malone MicroSport Trailer
    The Malone MicroSport trailers like you have use the bearing kit part # BK1-100 that you mentioned which comes with the correct seal size. Or for a replacement hub that comes pre-greased part # 34822545BX. Then for a heavy duty and waterproof grease you'd want the LMX Red part # L11390 and you'd be set.
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  • Replacement Bearing/Seals for Hubs With 1 Inch Spindle
    If the axle has a straight spindle with an L44643 outer bearing, it would use the same L44643 inner bearing. So, we've got the bearings and their compatible L44610 races covered. For the grease seal, you're most likely needing a 34823 seal which has an ID of 1.249 inches and an OD of 1.983 inches which is super-close to the measurements you provided. The seal ID can be tricky to get because it's usually pretty mangled when it's removed. The easiest way to get the seal ID is measure...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Hub Seals for a 2001 Rangertrail Model 116 Trailer
    The best way to identify the seal needed, is to get the number that is stamped or imprinted on the seal. You may have to remove the seal in order to see the numbers. If you can't determine what the seal's number is you can take a couple measurements and will be able to determine which you would need. First you need to use a dial or digital caliper to get the outer diameter of the spindle on your trailer's hub where the seal rides. Next you will need to get the inner diameter of the...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for Boat Trailer with BT8 1" Spindle
    It sounds like you have a BT8 spindle based on the outer diameter of the race and inner diameter of the grease seal. If that is the case then you need the Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle part # BK1-100.
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  • Bearing Kit with Seal for Spindle with 1 inch Diameter
    For a 1 inch spindle we have the bearing kit part # BK1-100 which has the correct size seal as well.
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  • How to Verify that the Bearking Kit # BK1-100 would fit Trailer Hub
    If the inner diameter of both of your current bearings is 1 inch then your trailer would take the # L44643 bearing. The R at the end of your part number shouldn't be an issue, but it would be worth verifying that your current bearing has the same inner diameter as the # L44643. The R should stand for high capacity. For the # BK1-100 to work you will need to verify that your seal matches what comes with the kit. For that you would need to measure your current seal. If the inner diameter...
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  • Is the Bearing Kit # BK1-100 Correct for my Trailer
    The closest bearing and seal that we have to what you measured is found in the bearing kit # BK1-100 which is for a BT8 spindle. It comes with 2 bearings, 2 races, 1 grease seal, and a cotter pin. The bearing part # L44643 is for both the inner and outer bearing. It has an inner diameter of 1.000" while the included race, part # L44610, has an outer diameter of 1.98" which sounds like what you have. For the seal in the kit we have part # 34823 which has an inner diameter of 1.249"...
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  • Bearing Kit for Dexter 8-259 Trailer Hub
    Most of the 8-259 Dexter hubs use L44649 inner and outer bearings. For that you would need bearing kit # BK1-150. The seal included with this kit has an inner diameter of 1.50 inches. I have linked a video showing an example installation.
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  • Guide for Removing and Reinstalling Trailer Bearings
    I attached a video for you to check out that demonstrates how to remove, inspect, and reinstall trailer bearings. I also attached a second video that details how to pack bearings with grease. To pick out bearings for a trailer hub you will need to remove one of the hubs so that you can remove the bearings and get the numbers off of them. Or, you can measure the spindle where the bearings ride so that we can pick you out the correct bearings that would fit the spindle. I attached a...
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  • What Information is Needed When Replacing the Bearing, Races and Seals on a Trailer Hub
    In order to pick out the correct bearings, you are going to need to remove both inner and outer bearings from your hub and get the stamped numbers off of them. You will also need to get the number off of the seal as well. This will help you determine the proper hub-and-drum assembly. See diagram to the right and video attached for guidance. Another way to determine the bearings and seal you will need is to use a dial caliper and measure the bearing and seal dimensions of the spindle...
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  • Are Washers Always Needed Between Spindle Nut and Outer Bearing
    Spindle washers aren't always used. We actually sell complete axles with hubs like the # 20440I-ST-72 which does not come with washers. Typically if a washer is needed it will be on a higher capacity hub/axle.
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  • Option for Needing Replacement Bearings for Hub with 30205A Bearings
    The bearing that you have on the trailer hub measures just under 1 inch (0.985) and we are not going to have a hub that accepts a bearing with an inner diameter of that size. This is common for the trailer kits like the Haul Master branded trailers. You have 2 options though. First, to obtain the right size replacement parts you would have to go to through the manufacturer since the hubs are not a common size. Second, and the best option, replace the axle so that you will not run...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings for a Trailer
    I wasn't able to cross reference the bearing kit number you listed with anything we offer, but since you said the axle is a dexter axle we most likely do carry the parts you would need. You will need to remove the hubs to either get the numbers off of the bearings or use a digital or dial caliper to get exact measurements of the spindle where the bearings ride.
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  • Possible Bearing Kit for Spindle that's Almost 1 inch in Diameter
    Sounds like you have a spindle that's almost 1 inch in diameter. The BT8 spindles are .99 inch in diameter where the bearings ride. Where the seal rides is 1.24 inches in diameter. If that matches what you have that would mean you need the bearing kit # BK1-100.
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  • Recommendation For Bearing Kit For Malone Microsport Trailer
    Based on the information you sent, it sounds like you have an inner and outer bearing like Item # L44643. I called the manufacturer and they told me that the hub bore is 1.98 inches which matches a double lip grease seaI like Item # 34823. If these match your trailer's parts then I recommend Bearing Kit Item # BK1-100 which contains everything that you will need. Before taking further action, I want to encourage you to double check the bearing sizes so that you get the correct bearings...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit Recommendation for Viking Popup Trailer with Dexter EZ Lube Spindles
    Can you get me the diameter of the axle or the capacity if you can find it? Most likely it's a 2k axle and the kit part # BK1-100 would be the correct kit to use but I'd need to verify that for sure. The correct diameter axle for a 2k axle would be 1-3/4 inch.
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  • How to Pick Out a Bearing Kit for a Trailer
    In order to pick out the correct bearing kit you are going to need to remove both bearings from your hub and get the numbers off of them. You will also need to get the number off of the seal as well. Based on the inner diameter of your outer bearing it seems there is a strong chance you have a number 84 spindle which would have an outer bearing of # L44649, an inner bearing of # L68149 which would mean you would want the bearing kit part # BK2-100. The seal number would be # RG06-050...
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  • Can Larger Bearings Fit Inside the Same Trailer Hub as Smaller Bearings
    More than likely, no. Any given spindle and hub will take specific bearing sizes. A bearing that is too large will not fit inside the hub or on the spindle. Bearings that are too small for the hub will create a very dangerous situation. I would need to know the inner and outer bearing numbers you have now to determine the correct replacements.
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  • Can Bearings for a 1-1/16 Inch Spindle Replace Bearings for a 1 Inch Spindle Using Same Hub
    Yes, the L44649 bearings for a 1-1/6" spindle will have the same outer diameter (1.980") as the L44643 bearings for a 1" spindle so you can obtain the Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle part # BK1-100 to reuse your hubs.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for Snowbear Trailer with L44643 Bearings
    Thanks for the info! Based on that you need the Bearing Kit # BK1-100 which is for the common BT8 spindle like what it sounds like you have. This kit comes with 2 of the L44643 bearings, the matching races, a cotter pin, and a double lip grease seal with an inner diameter of 1.249" which should match up directly with that you have.
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  • Available Small Wheel Bearings and Wheel Bearing Kits for Trailers
    We do offer bearings as individual parts as well as part of kits that also include races, a grease seal, etc. An example of such a bearing kit is part # BK1-100. The # L44643 bearings in this kit have an inner diameter of 1.00-inch. The smallest bearing we offer is part # LM11949 which works with race # LM11910. This bearing has an inner diameter of 0.750-inches. It usual application is as an outer bearing for an agricultural hub. You can use the linked page to see all bearings, races...
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  • Is Washer Needed When Installing BT8 Bearing Kit on Trailer Axle
    While the BT8 Bearing Kit part # BK1-100 does not come with a washer you would still need to use a washer like the part # 5-23. If you are having a hard time getting the nut to thread on with the washer installed you'd need make sure the inner bearing is all the way seated on the spindle and doesn't need to be installed further onto it. For more info on this I attached video that covers this as well.
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  • Why Would a Small Spring End Up Lodged in a Trailer Bearing
    On double lip trailer hub seals there is a small spring that is designed to hold the seal tight to the spindle. It sounds like that spring made its way off of the seal and into your bearing. Your best option would be to replace the bearings and seals. If the # BK1-100 has the bearings and seals that you would need this would be the correct kit. It comes with inner/outer bearings L44643 and a seal that has an inner diameter of 1.249. The bearings are both designed to fit a spindle...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Trailer with Dexter 2,000 lb Axle
    The bearing kit part # BK1-100 that you mentioned is the correct kit for a Dexter Torflex 2,000 lb axle like you have and the dimensions you mentioned match. Bearings can be a pretty tight fit on spindles so sometimes they can be somewhat challenging to slip on all the way. This is especially true if the spindle has any rust or grime on it that needs to be cleaned off. I can see some dark markings on your spindle. You might need to clean it off to get the bearings to slip on all the way.
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  • Bearing Kit for 2,000 Pound Utility Trailer
    I believe the bearing kit you will need will be part # BK1-100. However, I was unable to exactly cross reference your seal number. I recommend measuring your spindle to find the inner diameter of the seal you need, as well as measuring your seal to find the outer diameter. To get the most precise measurement possible, it is best to measure with a digital caliper. I have attached a diagram showing the location of the grease seal seat that will give you the inner diameter needed for your...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit Needed for a 10ft 1995 Triton Lite Trailer
    It looks like the 10 ft Triton Lite trailers were built with 2,000 lb Dexter axles. There are two bearing kits we carry that may work for you and the best way to determine which kit is the correct kit for your trailer is to compare the part numbers of your current bearings with the part numbers of the bearing kits. Bearing Kit, # BK1-150, uses L44649 inner and outer bearings. Bearing Kit, # BK1-100, uses L44643 inner and outer bearings. The part number of the bearings will be stamped into...
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  • How to Pick Out a Bearing Kit for a Trailer Hub
    You will need to remove your hub, remove the seal and get the bearing numbers and seal numbers from what you have right now and then you will be able to pick out the correct kit. I attached a picture that shows bearings, races, and seals where you can see the numbers stamped on them as well as see the dimensions needed for seal replacement. I also attached a video on bearing, inspection and replacement for you to check out. Once you know what you have check out the link I provided...
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