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Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal

Item # DL21792

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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etrailer 2000 lbs Axle,3500 lbs Axle Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - DL21792
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44643
  • Race L44610
Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal part number DL21792 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - DL21792


Kit Includes:
  • One Inner Bearing and Race
  • One Outer Bearing and Race
  • Grease Seal
  • Cotter Pin
  • Grease Cap
Outer Bearing
Race
Inner Bearing
Race
Seal
Seal I.D.
Outer Hub I.D.
L44643
L44610
L44643
L44610
34823 (12192VB)
1.249"
1.980"


21792 Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal







Video of Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal - DL21792

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (96 Customer Reviews)


- DL21792
by:

I would have preferred if these kits also included a new washer. I think I'll have to find washers now and size them - I'll have to break the dust caps to get them off and it is sort of a hassle to me that the washers did not come with the kit. I know they are not listed as included, but it made the job kind of a hassle as I wasn't able to fully complete it with this kit. 260225



- DL21792
by:

I was replacing the bearings and repacking hubs on a 1957 Boat Trailer....I could barely read the numbers on the old bearings and there were also some prefixes before the part number. I called their customer service and the person I spoke to did a search to find out what part number I needed to order and not to worry about the prefix. She was right and the product fit my hubs perfectly. 613685



- DL21792
by:

Bearing arrived as expected, Fit perfec tly. 598488



- DL21792
by:

Bearing were good quality and fit like a champ! Still rolling strong. Thanks, as always, etrailer. 597644



- DL21792
by:

Product ordered was exactly that in which I wanted and same as what was delivered. Since I ordered over holiday period shipping was not as fast as it would have been otherwise so eTrailer refunded the difference in the shipping with just a 2 minute phone call! I have not installed the bearings as of yet (no time) but they look to match the ones I took out. Trailer light only has mount on the rear, I would have liked a mount on the inside wall but a bracket will be easy to make and give a more stable / strong mount point. 595880



- DL21792
by:

worked fine, fast shipping 593320



- DL21792
by:

Giving an old utility trailer to my nephew and will teach him how to replace bearings. Ordered two sets of bearings, races, seals, caps and cotter pins. Fabulous experience overall-easy ordering, fabulous sale price, unbelievable quick delivery and all the right parts are there and high quality. Could not have been better. 586119



- DL21792
by:

I put the bearings in today - Dylan helped me choose the correct ones. I also used etrailer' s installation directions. on the web. to help me install and take apart the old bearings and races. That was very helpful. I will definitely use your company again and pass the good word along to other potential customers. 547618



- DL21792
by:

Love the product, great shipping time even during the holiday week. 539842



- DL21792
by:

Just what I ordered. Fixed problem. Delivery was quick. 528130



- DL21792
by:

I made 2 orders. the first was trailer springs. I looked for new springs at quite a few places, you were the only ones that had springs to fit my very old trailer. The order was shipped very quickly. when I disassembled the suspension I checked the wheel bearings and found 1 bad one so I ordered new ones. Even with shipping they were only about 2/3 the price locally. These were also shipped immediately. very pleased with the service. 502259



- DL21792
by:

The bearings I recently purchased will replace current equipment that have served me well over the years. 502042



- DL21792
by:

Web page is easy to navigate; pricing is reasonable. Shipped and arrived in a few days. Very satisfied with quality of parts. Have used this site for tires and rims, bearings and hub on different occasions and service was as described each time. Thanks for the great job etrailer.com 500331



- DL21792
by:

Product as described good shipping havent installed yet 496809



- DL21792
by:

Product was as described, delivered quickly. I would order from this retailer again. 482311



- DL21792
by:

Ordered wheel bearings with races and bearing caps from etrailer.com Order was easy to do on line and arrived in a very quick, prompt time. Parts all seem to be quality parts and am quite pleased. Thank you!! 478013



- DL21792
by:

I never did use these bearings. Hopefully some day I will. I ended up changing out the whole axle with heavier different bearing hubs. 468056



- DL21792
by:

I am giving it a good review because my parts came in quickly and looked to be all there. Unfortunately I could not use them as the thickness was different than my original ones. Probably my bad cause I didn't check that dimension. To all in the future....check all your dimensions! 450045



- DL21792
by:

I was highly impressed with Crystal's ability to make sure I ordered the correct wheels and bearings for my small trailer. I was very satisfied with the price, also...I switched from my previous online supplier. The product came in today, and I now have a spare tire attached to the frame and a new wheel and tire on the passenger-side rear axle. Thanks for your prompt shipping!! Dave C 439965



- DL21792
by:

fast service fast dellivery great price 436042



- DL21792
by:

I found everything I needed in one kit! Got it delivered on time and the parts were the right fit. No complaints here! 433561



- DL21792
by:

items were sent in timely manner well packed every thing work as it should 431123



- DL21792
by:

Order was complete. Will be used to refurbish a swivel wheel trailer 430366



- DL21792
by:

This is a great kit and excellent value. Everything fit my trailer axle perfectly. Even the grease seal that substitutes for my original fit well. 424128


Comments

The trailer bearing kit is working great! Thanks for the great products and service.

J.W.S. - 08/23/2018

42717

- DL21792
by:

Just what I was looking for. I also bought these for my 1997 Reese Backpacker trailer. This is a really good looking wheel and tire set that, way better than the old white 8" tires I had. Was looking for a higher speed rating and these were perfect. Just finished a 1,300 road trip with them and no issues at all. 423654



- DL21792
by:

Received on time & product looks good 418498



- DL21792
by:

Fast shipping and awesome price. Thanks. 405089



- DL21792
by:

Exe len parts , and even better ordering and shipping 403328



- DL21792
by:

Received great response to my question, and got my parts quickly. 395824



- DL21792
by:

Put on my boat trailer and fit and function was fine. Envelope the bearings came in was a little worse for wear and tear the post office subjected it to but all was well. Thanks for a quality well priced product 395800



- DL21792
by:

Worked great, great price! 386691



- DL21792
by:

perfect fit good job 374667



- DL21792
by:

Best quality and Very Happy with all !!!! Thanks for making it painless 374174



- DL21792
by:

Exactly what I needed to get my trailer back on the road at a good price 373696



- DL21792
by:

They fit perfectly. As hoped. I'll be installing them soon. 366983



- DL21792
by:

Always keep a spare kit. I keep two--just in case 363248


Comments

Thank you. Products are still in use.

Chris S - 04/05/2018

36940

- DL21792
by:

Great kit and price 359916



- DL21792
by:

Super fast shipping,all parts are exactly as shown,good prices! 358294



- DL21792
by:

Item as Described,Great Value,FAAST Shipper! Thank-You!! 348022



- DL21792
by:

These bearings worked great on my MC-10 Aluma brand trailer. Easy install and working great for the last year. Thanks again! 347916


Comments

Still working great on my motorcycle trailer.

Sterling R - 03/04/2018

35363

- DL21792
by:

Everything I need to rebuild a hub at a great price. This is the only place I could find a kit for my axles, and buying it part by part would have easily ran me 4x the price. 346814



- DL21792
by:

I have a ten year old Costco trailer that the manufacturer doesn't support for parts any more(Made in Canada). Etrailer told me how to measure the shaft and cap size(1" and 1 15/16"). I ordered two sets of bearing kits, and they fit perfectly! I couldn't be happier with the price, quick shipping and final results. 319705



- DL21792
by:

Great product and lots of information on the right bearing kit for the job for a novice like myself 278192



- DL21792
by:

Received quality products promptly. I am pleased with the transaction. 275768



- DL21792
by:

great product and even better service 275416



- DL21792
by:

great product and even better service 275415


Comments

great

Ronald M - 07/23/2017

26497

- DL21792
by:

Just like original equipment. 273178



- DL21792
by:

Perfect fit. The best price. Excellent service as always. I ordered before and I will order again. 257666



- DL21792
by:

Precisely what I needed. Did have to buy a race and seal driver tool but works fine. 257166



- DL21792
by:

Well made kit with good price! Make sure to order a washer if you need one since it doesn't come with the kit. 251770


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • How to Pick Out Spindle Washer for Trailer Hub
  • The correct spindle washer you would need is going to depend on what the spindle calls for. There are various washers we offer for various styles of spindles. For just a standard 1 inch washer we have the # SW1000. Of if you have an EZ lube style spindle we have the part # 5-101 which is the most popular option. I attached a link to a page that has all of the washers we have. The part # DL21792 comes with a cotter pin, but no washer.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearings for Bearing Number L44643R
  • The R at the end of the part # L44643 is identification that some manufacturers will use. It could mean a number of things such as what plant it was made or something a long those lines. For your purposes # L44643 is the correct replacement. Are both the inner and outer bearings the same size? If they are you'll need # DL21792 for the complete bearing kit. If they're not the same you'll need to measure the spindle using a digital caliper to find the correct parts you need. I've...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit Recommendation for a Coleman Fleetwood Santa Fe 1999 8-258 Hub
  • The biggest clue for determining what bearings you need came from the last number you listed. Thank you for that! You have basically the part # 8-258BTUC1 hub and the correct bearings would be the kit part # DL21792 that comes with the correct bearings, seal, races and cap.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit With Bearings, Races, And Seals For 4 Lug Trailer Axle Hubs
  • For your wheel bearing, races, and seals, I don't have the dimensions available. For a precise fit, I'll need you to give me the inner diameter and the outer diameter measurements of your bearing. Most 4 lug hubs use the same bearings so it is a good possibility that the TruRyde Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal # DL21792 may fit. I've attached a video of this kit for you.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Kit for Boat Trailer with 1-1/16 Inch Diameter Straight Spindle
  • It sounds like your hubs use L44649 bearings which have an inner diameter of 1.063 inches which is 1-1/16 inches. There is a bearing kit with these bearings, # BK1-150. The kit comes with a 10-60 seal that has a 1.5 inch inner diameter. The hubs that take these bearings are usually rated for 2,000 pound axles so this would be the correct kit.
    view full answer...

  • Does the # 34823 Seal in Bearing Kit # DL21792 Match a # 7781 S
  • The information that I was able to find on the oil seal # 7781S shows that it has an outer diameter of 1.989 inches and works with oil bath or grease-able hubs. The Bearing Kit with Grease Cap, # DL21792, includes Grease Seal, # 34823, which only works with grease-able hubs. I pulled the seal from our warehouse and it's outer diameter measures 1.983 inches. The # 34823 and the # 7781 S aren't an exact match, but the outer diameter measurements are very close. If you have grease-able...
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  • Tips on How to Pack Trailer Bearings with Grease
  • I will be happy to help. First, there are some bearings that are sealed and do not need to be lubricated. They are called cartridge bearings and are very different than other bearings. It doesn't sound like that is what you have though. I have linked a video to the right that shows how to pack trailer bearings. Be sure to remove all of the old grease prior to reinstalling the bearings. There are also products you can use so as to avoid packing the bearings by hand such as the bearing...
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  • Dimensions Needed To Replace Bearings And Seals On Trailer
  • I was unable to find a cross-reference to the bearing number 30205 you referenced. I will need some more information from you to be able to determine what seals and bearings will work for your trailer. I have included a drawing that shows where the measurements need to be taken using a precision instrument like a dial caliper. The spindle dimensions are as follows: A is the mounting dimension, B is the seal dimension, C is the inner bearing surface, D is the outer bearing surface and...
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  • Replacing Wheel Bearings and Seals Based On Diameter Or Number Stamped Into Bearing Face
  • Based on that diameter reading, I can't confirm a fit. The Bearing Kit with Grease Cap for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal # DL21792 is an industry standard size for 2000 lb and 2200 lb axles. The bearing that may be closer to your application is the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # L44649 but that is not an exact fit either. If you can find the bearing number on either bearing it would be helpful to confirm. It is normally stamped on the outside face of the...
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  • Replacement Bearings for Four Winns Single-Axle Boat Trailer
  • Trailer makers don't often maintain records of the small parts like bearings that are used in their trailers (even when you can tell them its VIN) so the way to know for certain what replacement parts you need is to pull one of the hubs, remove its bearings and check them for part numbers. The linked photo shows the typical appearance and location of bearing, race and seal part numbers. It also indicates the points on the spindle that where you will need to take precise measurements...
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  • How to Pick out a Replacement Seal for a Trailer Hub
  • You will need to get the inner and outer dimensions of your seal or the number off of it to pick out the correct seal. If the seal of the Bearing Kit part # DL21792 does not match what you have then I would not recommend it for you. You may find that your bearings and seals do not match one of the bearing kits we offer. In that situation you will just need to piece together what you need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the seals we offer. Select your inner and outer diameter...
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  • How to Determine Bearings and Seals that are Needed for a Long Chih Trailer with 12 Inch Wheels
  • To get the correct bearings and seal kit for your Long Chih trailer, you will want to get the part numbers that are stamped on the bearings of your trailer. There will be an inner and an outer bearing number. With those part numbers, I will be able to determine the bearings and seal you will need for your trailer. You can also measure the inner diameter of the seal and the outer diameter. The measurements have to be as accurate as possible so I recommend using dial calipers to measure...
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal for L44643 Inner and Outer Bearings
  • The seal you need is going to be more associated with the inner bearing and race. The outer bearing will help identify other parts but only if I have both bearing numbers. If both bearings are the same then the seal is # 34823 or for a pair use # RG06-010. You will need to pull the hub and get the inner bearing number as well to be sure. These seals measure 1.249 inner diameter and 1.983 outer diameter.
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  • How to Determine Replacement Bearings for a 2005 Fleetwood Yuma Pop Up Camper
  • You will need to remove the hubs of your 2005 Fleetwood Yuma Pop Up camper and remove the bearings in that hub in order to find out what would work as a replacement. There will be numbers stamped on the bearings. With those numbers we can determine what would work as a replacement. I attached a picture that shows what the numbers will look like.
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  • Replacement Bearings for 2009 Rockwood Premier 2302 Trailer
  • The TruRyde Bearing Kit # DL21792 that you referenced includes two each of bearing # L44643 as well as races, seal and grease cap. The Forest River RV website does not provide specs for the bearings used in the various models of their Rockwood Premier series, so for replacements you'll need to obtain the bearing numbers from those on the trailer. The linked photo shows the typical placement and appearance of trailer bearing numbers; it also shows the points on the spindles that will...
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  • Axle Capacity Rating For The L44643 Bearing
  • I can tell you what axle rating the Bearing Kit with Grease Cap part # DL21792 is compatible with however, I cannot be sure as to what axle you currently have. The L44643 is designed to work with a BT8 spindle that is commonly found on axles rated at 2,000 lb. and below. Both the inner and outer bearing will use the L44643 bearing on this axle. The best way to determine your exact axle capacity would be to contact the axle manufacturer if possible. Usually there is a tag on the center...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for 2004 Aliner SportLiner
  • That's not a number we are familiar with. What's the inner diameter of the bearing? If it's 1 inch most likely you have a L44643 and the 6 just happens to look like a 5. The bearing kit that uses that number is the part # DL21792 which is designed for spindle diameters that are 1 inch in diameter and have a seal that is 1.249 inch.
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  • Replacement Bearing Grease Seal for 1996 Procraft Trailer
  • The Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal # BK2-100 is very standard for your bearing combination. The seal however is 2.565 inches outer diameter and 1.719 inner diameter. This is by far the most common combination that fits most 3,500 lb axles. The best way to check your actual seal requirements is to use a digital caliper like # PTW80157 or # 301-17068 for even more precision. You will measure the inside lip of your hub at the seal and then...
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  • Replacement Seal Needed for a Harbor Freight Haul-Master With Bearing 30205
  • The bearing number alone is not the best indicator for a specific grease or oil seal. Trailers with the same bearing number could have different seals based on the spindle or hub that is being used. Bearing number 30205 is not a bearing that we offer and after doing some research that does not appear to coincide with any bearings that we currently carry. The best way to determine which seal you need is by taking some measurements on your hub and spindle. We want the inner diameter of...
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  • Wheel Bearings Needed for 1990 Coleman Newport Popup Camper
  • To determine which bearings you need, you will need to pull one of the hubs off your pop-up and get the reference numbers off of your existing bearings (see photo), as we do not possess a list of bearings used on different trailers. If your existing bearings have no numbers, or they are not readable, you will need to use a dial or digital caliper to obtain some measurements off of your spindles to determine which bearings and grease seals are needed. I have edited a diagram that shows...
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  • How to Determine Correct Bearing Kit for 4X8 Trailer with 1 Inch Spindles
  • We do offer some bearing kits that may work for the 1 inch spindle on your 4x8 trailer. I recommend first confirming the spindle measurement with a digital caliper like # PTW80157 if you have not already, because even the slightest difference in measurement can indicate the correct bearing kit to use.
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Info for this part was:

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Video Edited:
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