Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings

Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings

Item # L44610

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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L44610 - Bearing L44643,Bearing L44649 etrailer Races
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Product Images


  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • 1.980 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing L44643
  • Bearing L44649
  • Race L44610
Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L44643 and L44649 bearings. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings part number L44610 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (105)
  • Q & A (125)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44610

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L44643 and L44649 bearings. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 1.980"
  • Matching bearings (sold separately): L44643, L44649


L44610 Replacement Trailer Hub Race





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper LS Camper 107LS

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Sport Camper 108ST

2013 - 2015 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 11FDB

2013 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 11FK

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Sport Camper 125ST

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Classic Camper 1285SST

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper LS Camper 128LS

2012 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12BH

2011 - 2011 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12DD

2012 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12DDST

2011 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12RB

2016 - 2016 Forest River Flagstaff Hard Side Camper 12RB

2016 - 2016 Coachmen Viking Camper 12RB

2015 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12RBSOR

2016 - 2016 Forest River Flagstaff Hard Side Camper 12RBSOR

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Camper 12RBST

2013 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12RBST

2016 - 2016 Forest River Flagstaff Hard Side Camper 12RBST

2016 - 2016 Coachmen Viking Camper 12RBST

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Camper 12RBSTHW

2016 - 2016 Coachmen Viking Camper 12RBSTHW

2013 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12RBTH

2016 - 2016 Forest River Flagstaff Hard Side Camper 12RBTH

2011 - 2011 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12RS

2016 - 2016 Coachmen Viking Camper 12RSST

2012 - 2012 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12SC

2013 - 2013 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12SCST

2012 - 2013 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12SDTH

2013 - 2013 Skyline Aljo GL Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 130B

See All Vehicle Fits



Video of Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings - L44610

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (105 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L44643 and L44649 bearings. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L44610
by:

Just received and installed the bearings onmy dads camp trailer. Everything shipped was the proper product and the installation was easy. This is the second set of bearings I have purchased from etrailer and both sets have been a great buy with great customer service and prompt shipment. Thank you for your great service, you will be hearing from me again. Daryl O. 142169


Comments

Everything is good and you will hear from me when anyone in my family needs bearings.Thanks again for your great service.

Daryl O - 07/20/2015

13522

- L44610
by:

The order was all there and delivered right away. Great updates on shipping and tracking 658995



- L44610
by:

Working, no issues. 656961



- L44610
by:

The install was easy and the brake system has been trouble free. I appreciated all the help I got before the purchase it gave me a lot of confidence in what I was purchasing. 652486



- L44610
by:

Excellent part and great service. 651469



- L44610
by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos. 604450



- L44610
by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. Etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos. 604480



- L44610
by:

Great service, real fast 592446



- L44610
by:

Worked great, as expected. 578214



- L44610
by:

Done........ thanks for the quick delivery and, most of all, the customer rep who knew what a grease seal wear ring was. I was surprised at how many trailer people were clueless. 575726



- L44610
by:

Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed. 572867



- L44610
by:

Got my stuff fast And good prices 551786



- L44610
by:

Order was correct and delivered in 2 days. Items worked fine and were as described. 545326



- L44610
by:

Great product . Easy to install 529136



- L44610
by:

Everything I needed was easy to identify and order through the etrailer.com site, and the order arrived quickly. The information and how-to videos were very helpful, and assisted me in getting my project completed easily. I wouldn't hesitate to use the site again, or to recommend to anyone needing parts for their trailer. 522479



- L44610
by:

Excellent 519698



- L44610
by:

Fit perfectly. 513762


Comments

working great, hasnt leaked or seeped.

Marvin - 06/02/2019

56020

- L44610
by:

Did the job !!! Reasonable shipping too ! 512960



- L44610
by:

Unacceptable. Please read this review carefully before considering purchase. Pros: quick response to questions (1 star). Cons: See Attached photo, packaging was minimal with all bearing, races and seals loose in box. Anyone That knows anything about bearings, races and seals know they should not be handles or shipped this way. Probable damage has occurred to these parts making them unusable. These can not be installed and used with any confidence. (0 stars, negative if possible) 509285



- L44610
by:

great product 497408



- L44610
by:

etrailer and their customer service are the best i've seen, always there to talk you through the process to help ensure you're buying the right part and answer any questions. Great company! 486985



- L44610
by:

very fast shipping, great item, perfect fit, 100% thanks. 484343



- L44610
by:

I have bought them before they work fin e. 483184



- L44610
by:

worked great, perfect fit. 471307



- L44610
by:

PERFECT... 456923



- L44610
by:

Good pricing , prompt shipping, one item was out of stock but didn't find out till next day ! would buy from again ! Thanks Greg C. 452653



- L44610
by:

Replacement for worn Timken brand bearing. Couldn't tell they weren't. No issues. 447909



- L44610
by:

This was the size race that I needed. 439489



- L44610
by:

Excellent transaction. Parts arrived on time as expected, were exactly what I ordered, and fit my trailer perfectly. Would definitely do business with etrailer again. 436464



- L44610
by:

The first package contained the wrong parts but the folks at etrailer were able to correct the problem with the correct parts which fit as needed. 432372



- L44610
by:

Great people to work with. Excellent prices on all trailer parts. Thanks 429137



- L44610
by:

Good Product Fast delivery 385080



- L44610
by:

Nice product very helpful customer ser vice 380792



- L44610
by:

Easy install. Why mess around? Great customer service by this company. 377062



- L44610
by:

EXCELLENT 369454



- L44610
by:

Perfect fit. Good service. 364498



- L44610
by:

It fit as it should and works. I haven't put many miles on it yet but so far so good. 360907



- L44610
by:

Everything was right on time, great sales people. All the bearings, seals, and races fit nicely. 360804



- L44610
by:

Perfect for my boat trailer! Super fast shipping! Thanks!! 356901



- L44610
by:

Good shipping, fast. Recieved yesterday and put them on. Will update longevity later. Look great though. 358445



- L44610
by:

Excellent product 352318



- L44610
by:

Ordered bearings and races for both hubs on my bass boat. Quality seemed better than local auto parts bearings. Also purchased other items on this order and was very pleased with products and customer service I received from etrailer. Informative, fast shipping, and courteous company to work with. Top notch!! 341785



- L44610
by:

Spare parts 338006



- L44610
by:

For great, good value 327673



- L44610
by:

Product is what I ordered and good quality.. fast shipping...Cheaper that my local store(with shipping) and as always I had rather shop online than bother going in to town.. I have had to call etrailer before because of my mistake...they changed my order without any cost to me... 320865



- L44610
by:

Item as described and at a good price 308668



- L44610
by:

Great service and product, great delivery of parts Thank you Rex 305530



- L44610
by:

Acquired a race and bearing, they helped out on identifying the correct one I needed, Thank you 300425



- L44610
by:

Excellent bearings, races, buddies, and mounted tires on rims. Makes my rebuild of a 1974 trailer new again. Easy website, fast delivery, better price than anywhere including wallyworld. Great. 296607


Comments

Everything is great.

Tom G - 10/18/2017

29545

- L44610
by:

SECOND TIME IT WAS RIGHT. 295492


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Replacement hub Parts for 3,000 lb Dexter Axle With Bearings LM67048 and L44649
  • There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. Obviously, you will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649.
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  • Which Bearings, Races, and Seal Fit Dexter Hubs 8-283
  • For the inner bearing you need # LM67048 and race # LM67010. The outer bearing is # L44649 and race # L44610. The seal is # 10-42.
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal for the EZ Loader Kit 300-015907
  • The bearings, races, and grease seal that are included in the EZ Loader bearing kit 300-015907 that you referenced are found as parts # L68149, # L68111, # L44649, # L44610, and # 168255TB.
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Seal for 1993 Coleman Destiny Pop Up Camper
  • I was able to locate the correct bearings, races and seal that correspond to the part numbers you provided in your question. For bearings you will need the part # L44649 and for races you will want # L44610. Then for the grease seal you will use part # 13194. You can also take a few quick measurements on the trailer spindle at various locations to verify that these are the correct replacement parts. I have attached an image that shows where these measurements should be taken. You...
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  • Bearing Recommendation for Trailer with LM48548 and L68149
  • We have the bearings you are looking for. You would want part # LM48548 and # L44649. These are not identical though. Then for a grease seal set you'd want the part # RG06-050.
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  • Inner and Outer Bearing and Grease Seal for Older Trailer
  • We carry bearings, races and a seal that are very, very close to your measurements but not exact. For example, the inside bearing we carry is # L68149 and it has a 1.378" inner diameter; the correct race for this is # L68111. For the outer bearing we carry # L44649 which has a 1.063" inner diameter and the matching race is # L44610. Finally there is the grease seal, for which we carry # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688". You could get all of these parts together...
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  • Bearings and Seal Recommendation for Dexter 3,000 lb Axle
  • Thanks for the picture of the tag on your Dexter trailer axle. From that I can tell you have a 3,000 lb Dexter axle. There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. You will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649. For replacement brake assemblies you'd...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit and Bearing Buddy Grease Caps for 2012 Triton LT Trailer with Reliable Axle
  • The owner's manual for the Reliable axle on your Triton PWC trailer indicates that the bearing used on the axle of your weight rating is # L44643. This part serves as both inner and outer bearing according to the manual, which I linked for you. We sell this bearing as an individual part and also as part of a complete bearing kit # BK1-100 which includes 2 of bearing # L44643, 2 of race # L44610, 1 grease seal # 34823 and a cotter pin. You'll need two kits per axle. The hub that uses...
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  • Bearing Kit with LM67048 and L44649 Bearings
  • I do have all of the parts you need but we do not offer an all inclusive bearing kit with them. Instead, you will need to purchase each separately using the list I have attached for you below. Inner Bearing - part # LM67048 Inner Race - part # LM67010 Outer Bearing - part # L44649 Outer Race - part # L44610 Grease Seal - part # 10-42 Tang Washer - part # 5-101
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  • Brakes, Bearings and Grease Seal for Dexter 8-247 Hubs
  • Thank you for that info and we have everything you need. An 8-247 hub and drum, which is the same as Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 84546UC3 uses Inner Bearing # L68149, Outer Bearing # L44649, Inner Race # L68111, Outer Race # L44610 and Grease Seal # 58846. These parts are all available in Bearing Kit # BK2-100. For your brakes the correct replacements are Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Left Hand # 23-26 and Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Right Hand # 23-27....
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  • Replacement Bearing, Races and Grease Seal for 1992 Rockwood 2040 Pop-Up Camper
  • We have exactly the parts you need, Bearing # L44649, Race # L44610 and Grease Seal # 34823. There is not a kit containing these parts together so you would need to order each individually.
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  • Determining Bearing Size for Trailer that Uses Same Inner and Outer Race
  • Having the same inner and outer races may indicate that the inner and outer bearings on your trailer are also the same, but it is not a guarantee. This is because some races are designed to fit multiple bearing sizes, as the race will go on the outside of the bearing. Different bearing numbers may have the same outer diameter, meaning they may be compatible with the same race, but have a different inner diameter, which is the important measurement when finding the correct bearing for your...
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  • Recommended Replacement Bearings and Races for Dexter # 8-248 Hubs
  • Good news! I spoke to my contact at Dexter and he told me all the information about your old style 8-248 hub. A great replacement bearing and race kit which includes a grease seal as well is the # BK2-100. For the individual bearings and races you will want: Inner bearing: # L68149 Outer bearing: # L44649 Inner Race: # L68111 Outer Race: # L44610 If you would like to replace the hub as well, Dexter offers a replacement hub kit for your old style 8-248 hub; the part number for...
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  • How to Find the Correct Idler Hub Replacement for Boat Trailer
  • In order to find the correct wheel bearings, you can take apart your hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you would need to use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where you need to measure. I've also added a link to a...
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  • Correct Bearing Buddy Protectors for Outer Bearing Model L44649 with a 1.980 Hub Bore
  • The stainless steel Bearing Buddy grease caps will definitely help keep dirt/water out of your hubs and bearings. These protectors fit a 1.980" hub bore, which is commonly found on 2,000-lb, 2,500-lb and 3,500-lb axles. Bearing Buddy Protectors # BB1980A-SS will work with your outer bearing model # L44649 that has an inner diameter of 1.063 inches. This replacement trailer hub bearing matches with race # L44610 (sold separately). The attached article has some additional information...
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  • Replacement Bearings for EZ Loader Boat Trailer
  • I spoke with my contact at EZ Loader and was able to find that the axles on your boat trailer will use the following bearing and race numbers: Inner bearing: # L68149 Outer bearing: # L44649 Inner race: # L68111 Outer race: # L44610 For the complete kit that includes these bearings, races and seal, you can use the Bearing Kit # BK2-100.
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  • Replacement Trailer Bearings and Hubs for Bearings L44649 with 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern
  • We do carry the trailer hub bearing # L44649 which has an inner diameter of 1.063 inches. You can verify the measurement if you aren't sure of the numbers. The matching race is # L44610. If both your inner and outer bearings are # L44649 then for a 5 on 4-1/2 hub use # AKHD-545-2-2K. This includes the hubs, bearings, races, grease seal, cap, and lugs nuts.
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  • Can Built-In Camber be Adjusted on Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System with Hubs
  • When installing the Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System with Hubs # A12WS545 referenced in your question, the toe-in will need to be set. However, the system does include shims that will allow you to adjust the camber as needed. I have attached an installation video on this product for you to check out. Right around the 4 minute mark you can see this feature explained. This is a great axle-less suspension system with a weight capacity of 1,200 pounds and a bolt pattern of 5...
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  • Replacement Parts for Timbren Axle-Less Suspension System A35RS545E
  • Thank you for your many purchases from etrailer. We appreciate your trust and repeat business. You purchased the Timbren axle-less suspension kit with brakes and straight spindles, part # A35RS545E. The bearings used in this kit are inner # L68149 and outer # L44649. Inner race is part # L68111 and outer race is part # L44610. The 10-19 grease seal is part # RG06-050, sold as a pair.
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  • Trailer Hub Bearing Kit Recommendation for 1990 Coleman Pop Up Camper L44649
  • Since your hubs have inner and outer bearing numbers L44649 the correct bearing kit you would need is the part # BK1-150. I attached a trailer bearing install video for you to check out as well. For the standard spindle you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-020. If you have a E-Z Lube spindle, with a grease fitting in the end of the spindle, you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-040.
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  • Hub and Drum Assembly for 3,500 lb Axles Compatible With E-Z Lube Spindles
  • For a hub and drum assembly that is compatible with E-Z Lube spindles you want # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K as opposed to the assembly you referenced # AKHD-545-35-K. They are otherwise the same: compatible with 3,500 lb axles, have a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern and include inner bearing: # L68149, outer bearing # L44649, inner race # L68111, outer race # L44610, and grease seal # 58846. I've added a link to a video review of this hub assembly for you to take a look at as well.
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  • Replacement Bearings, Seals, and Races for Unique #84 Spindle/Hub
  • According to the part numbers you gave it looks like you need outer bearing # L44649 with the matching race # L44610, inner bearing # L68149 with the matching race # L68111, and then the grease seal # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688" and outer diameter of 2.332" which fits unique #84 spindle/hub combinations. This seal has the same dimensions of a 16667 seal that is commonly used on a vehicle. The bearing kit # BK2-100 that you referenced has all of the bearings and races...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings and Seal for Trailer Hub
  • To pick out bearings for a trailer hub you will need to remove one of the hubs so that you can remove the bearings and get the numbers off of them. Or, you can measure the spindle where the bearings and seal ride so that we can pick you out the correct bearings that would fit the spindle.
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  • Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal Recommendation for a 1995 Coleman Stoney Pop Up
  • We have the bearings and seal that you would need, but they are not available in a kit. For bearings you would want the # L44649, for races part # L44610, and then for a seal you would need part # 13194. I attached a help article on replacing bearings, races, and seals on a trailer hub for you to check out as well.
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  • Is it Possible To Determine Replacement Bearings for Trailer without Pulling Hubs Off
  • If you can find out the brand and capacity of the axle we can most likely tell you what bearings you'd need. Otherwise you'd have to pull the hubs off to get the info. Typical Axle Diameters Based on Axle Capacity - 1,000-lb - 2,000-lb Axles: 1-1/2 inch - 1-3/4 inch diameter - 3,500-lb Axles: 2-3/8 inch diameter - 6,000-lb - 7,200-lb Axles: 3 inch diameter - 8,000-lb Axles: 3-1/2 inch diameter - 9,000-lb Axles: 4 inch diameter - 10,000-lb Or more axles: 5 inch diameter I attached...
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  • Need Replacement 61-Inch x 1-1/2-Inch Galvanized Axle for 1999 NuWay Fold-Up Trailer
  • I was able to find an online reference to the axle part number you provided, NW27195, but this part is no longer offered by the original manufacturer and no substitute has been officially authorized. We do offer 60-inch axles rated for 2000-lbs. All can be seen on the link provided. For example, part # 20440I-EZ-60 uses EZ-Lube spindles and idler hubs with a 4-on-4 bolt pattern and is suited for 8-12-inch wheels. This axle is intended for use with bearing # L44649, race # L44610 and...
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  • Bearing Kit and Bearing Buddys Needed with Inner and Outer Bearings L44649
  • The best (and currently only) bearing kit that comes with the bearings # L44649 and race # L44610 is listed on our site as part # BK1-150. This kit has been reviewed by a wide variety of customers for different applications and it has almost a complete 5 star review so I will let the customers speak for how well the kit works. For Bearing Buddys you need either part # BB1980A which is chrome plated or part # BB1980A-SS which is an upgraded part with a stainless steel construction. I...
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Info for this part was:

Photos by:
Theodore B
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Installed by:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Video by:
Zach D
Photos by:
Stacy F

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