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Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings

Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings

Item # L44610
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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L44610 - Bearing L44643,Bearing L44649 etrailer Races
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L44643 and L44649 bearings. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings part number L44610 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44610

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 1.980 Inch O.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44643
  • Bearing L44649
  • Race L44610

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L44643 and L44649 bearings. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 1.980"
  • Matching bearings (sold separately): L44643, L44649


L44610 Replacement Trailer Hub Race





Video of Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings - L44610

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (126 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L44643 and L44649 bearings. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L44610
by:

Just received and installed the bearings onmy dads camp trailer. Everything shipped was the proper product and the installation was easy. This is the second set of bearings I have purchased from etrailer and both sets have been a great buy with great customer service and prompt shipment. Thank you for your great service, you will be hearing from me again. Daryl O. 142169


Comments
Everything is good and you will hear from me when anyone in my family needs bearings.Thanks again for your great service.
Daryl O - 07/20/2015

13522

- L44610
by:

Excellent part and great service. 651469



- L44610
by:

Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed. 572867



- L44610
by:

Great price, fit as needed. 857189



- L44610
by:

Great site - I loved my experience. Couldn't be more pleased!! Thanks - you're a class act!! 852988



- L44610
by:

I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time. 831084



- L44610
by:

John was great ! Very knowledgeable and professional I would definitely recommend etrailer 824748



- L44610
by:

These races work perfectly fit and install fine , no problems here. 814972



- L44610
by:

Fit great. Customer service was excellent. The lady I spoke with on phone really knew about trailer s an bearings. She is the reason I ordered an the reason I will order in future. She took her time listened to my trailer problem gave advice An helped me. My trailer is older an bearings weren't what should be on it. But she was right an parts fit great an l have put 2000 miles some new bearings. 809763



- L44610
by:

The race fit 804113



- L44610
by:

Great race, fit like I wanted it and was cheap enough. 796513



- L44610
by:

Solved the problem with the trailer bea rings 795027



- L44610
by:

A perfect fit for my single axle boat trailer and I replaced all 4. New bearings, seals, fresh grease and Stainless Steel Bearing buddy's completed the job. Now I do not have to worry about bearing failures. 794357



- L44610
by:

Working fine so far. Happy with product and service! 782491



- L44610
by:

All the parts I ordered were correct and of good quality. The customer service was outstanding!! I spent probably 30 minutes on the phone with Danielle as we tried to figure out exactly what axle was on my trailer ( wasn’t what it was supposed to be ). The parts showed up in a pretty reasonable amount of time considering the pandemic was in full swing. The prices also were very reasonable, as she searched her inventory for the best price, found a package deal for me with more than I was looking for at less cost than buying the parts individually. I will use them again for sure and definitely recommend them to anyone needing trailer parts. 782868



- L44610
by:

I got the bearing and races much faster than I expected to get them with all that is going on in the world today. They were shipped and in good condition . I will use them in the repair of a gearbox on a belly Mower. The Lady that answered the phone at Etrailer was so helpful in getting my order and helping me by making sure it was right. I work for a large Company as a Service Manager and that was Great Service. 776631



- L44610
by:

Exactly what was ordered and quick deli very 772008



- L44610
by:

Have ordered many items many times from etrailer for several trailers. Built one from parts they supplied. Always quality parts combined with fast delivery accompanied by more than competitive prices. 760579



- L44610
by:

Great product, fast shipping 705444



- L44610
by:

Great customer service! 699326



- L44610
by:

Thanks James, Received all the products Friday! All parts were correct went together just as I planned... Thanks!!!! 693477



- L44610
by:

Fit perfect 669558



- L44610
by:

Everything looks excellent. Adam did a super job putting together this package. I will be buying from etrailer again. Thanks Louis 670635



- L44610
by:

Great product, perfect fit, good price 669834



- L44610
by:

The order was all there and delivered right away. Great updates on shipping and tracking 658995


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Bearings and Hub For 2007 EZ Loader Trailer Model With BT150A Oil Bath Hub
    The EZ Loader with the BT150A Oil Bath hub uses a wheel bearing kit 300-020885 which includes wheel bearing part # L44649 for the inner and outer bearing, seal part # 34823 and race part # L44610. From my research it looks like your hub is an idler hub, you can use CE Smith Trailer Hub Assembly part # CE13311 to replace your hub. This hub comes with the bearings, seal and race to fit your spindle and it is pre-greased. It is rated for 2,700-lb Axles so you do want to make sure your...
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  • Possible Race For Replacing Timken 07196
    That's a Timken part number which we don't carry. Can you measure the outer diameter of it? If its 1.980 the race you'd need to use with the L44643 bearing is the part # L44610.
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  • Availability of Wheel Bearing Kit for Coleman Destiny Rio Grande Popup Camper
    We do not have a bearing kit that contains all the parts you need, but we do have the individual parts. For a grease seal you will want # 13194 For bearings you will want # L44649 (2x) For matching race you will want # L44610 (2x) These parts are for one wheel. I am including a link to a video that will show how to remove and reinstall trailer bearings, races, and seals. Also, a link to a page that will list the different bearing kits and the part numbers they use.
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  • Correct Bearing With 1.06 Inner Diameter
    Thanks for all that info! While we don't have anything that matches exactly, we do have some very close, so it may not hurt to measure again just to be sure. - Trailer Hub Bearing # L44649 (1.063" inner diameter) - Race # L44610 (1.980" outer diameter) - Grease Seal # 34823 (1.249" inner diameter and 1.983" outer diameter)
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  • Is it Possible To Determine Replacement Bearings for Trailer without Pulling Hubs Off
    If you can find out the brand and capacity of the axle we can most likely tell you what bearings you'd need. Otherwise you'd have to pull the hubs off to get the info. Typical Axle Diameters Based on Axle Capacity - 1,000-lb - 2,000-lb Axles: 1-1/2 inch - 1-3/4 inch diameter - 3,500-lb Axles: 2-3/8 inch diameter - 6,000-lb - 7,200-lb Axles: 3 inch diameter - 8,000-lb Axles: 3-1/2 inch diameter - 9,000-lb Axles: 4 inch diameter - 10,000-lb Or more axles: 5 inch diameter I attached...
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  • Recommended Bearings, Seals, Lug Nuts for 1995 Jayco Popup Camper
    If your races are # L44610, which they almost certainly are, you will want the following parts: Bearings: Inner bearing: # L44649 Outer bearing: # L44649 Grease seal: # 10-9 Outer diameter: 1.987" Inner diameter: 1.5" Grease cap: 1.986" But just to make sure you may want to measure your spindle to be sure bearings will fit and check races and hub for their part number. I have included a picture that shows the measurements needed...
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  • Determining Bearing Size for Trailer that Uses Same Inner and Outer Race
    Having the same inner and outer races may indicate that the inner and outer bearings on your trailer are also the same, but it is not a guarantee. This is because some races are designed to fit multiple bearing sizes, as the race will go on the outside of the bearing. Different bearing numbers may have the same outer diameter, meaning they may be compatible with the same race, but have a different inner diameter, which is the important measurement when finding the correct bearing for your...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings and Seal for Trailer Hub
    To pick out bearings for a trailer hub you will need to remove one of the hubs so that you can remove the bearings and get the numbers off of them. Or, you can measure the spindle where the bearings and seal ride so that we can pick you out the correct bearings that would fit the spindle.
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  • Bearing Replacement for Load Rite 1.06? – STRAIGHT SPINDLE Kit
    I found the bearing kit you referenced from Load Rite and it is a split between a BTR spindle where the bearings ride which means you'd need the bearings # L44649 and races # L44610 and a seal of # 34823 and you'd be set.
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  • How to Determine What Wheel Bearing a Trailer Would Need as a Replacement
    If you pull the wheel bearing out of your hub there should be a number stamped on it. That is the bearing number you would need as a replacement. Or, if you use a digital or dial caliper you can measure the spindle of your trailer where the bearing rides and you should be able to figure it out from there. If you email me back with that figure I can help pick it out for you.
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  • Replacement Hub And Bearings Races And Seals On Trailer With 12 Inch Wheels
    We do have a hub that uses part # L44610 for both the inner and outer race. The hub we offer is designed for 2,000 and 2,200 lb axles and will work with wheels that range from 8 to 12 inch diameter. This part number is # 8-259-50. The bolt pattern for this hub is 5 on 4-1/2. The bearings you can use for this hub are either part # L44643 or part # L44649. You will need to use a precision instrument like a digital caliper to measure the spindle where the bearings are used. If the...
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  • Trailer Hub Bearing Kit Recommendation for 1990 Coleman Pop Up Camper L44649
    Since your hubs have inner and outer bearing numbers L44649 the correct bearing kit you would need is the part # BK1-150. I attached a trailer bearing install video for you to check out as well. For the standard spindle you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-020. If you have a E-Z Lube spindle, with a grease fitting in the end of the spindle, you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-040.
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  • How to Select Size of Grease Caps for 1993 Coleman Destiny Pop-Up Camper Trailer
    A grease cap such as Bearing Buddy bearing protector # BB1980A-SS or a standard grease cap like # F001526 needs to be selected based on a precise measurement of the hub bore. This measurement really needs to be taken with a precision caliper like # 301-17068 so that you can measure to the nearest thousandth of an inch, such as 1.234-inches. Some hubs have a threaded bore and there are special Bearing Buddy caps made for these threaded hubs too. Ideally the size of grease cap you select...
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  • Replacement Bearings for JLG 7610 Triple-L Power Deck Trailer
    I was able to find some specs for your JLG 7610 Triple-L Power Deck Trailer but not confirmation of the bearing set used by the manufacturer. It is not unusual for trailer makers to vary the bearing sets used from one production run to another. The easiest way to find correct replacement bearings, races, seals, etc. is to use the part references from the originals. The linked photo shows the typical location and appearance of those numbers. You can then use our search function to find...
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  • How to Find Replacement Wheel Bearings for Trailer
    In order to find the correct wheel bearings for your trailer you need to take apart your hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you need to use a digital caliper such as # 301-17068 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where you need to measure. You can...
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  • Pick Out Wheel Bearing Kit for 1981 Coleman Redwood Tent Trailer
    I really wish there was a way to determine what bearings a trailer needed without actually pulling the wheel off and checking, but there isn't. The only two solutions I have for you would be to remove the hubs and get the numbers that are stamped on the bearing or for you to remove the hubs and use a digital or dial caliper to measure where the bearings and seal ride (see pic). With that info I can help you figure out what you need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the...
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  • What is Sleeve Stuck on Trailer Axle Spindle
    The picture didn't make it though but it sounds like maybe a bearing race is stuck on the spindle. Does the sleeve look like the part # L44610? If so, then it's a race and it would need to come off. I attached a link to a video on removing hubs for you to check out as well.
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  • How to Pick Out a Replacement Hub for an Old Trailer with Races LM11710 and L44610
    I couldn't find any information on the LM11710 race that you have and the L44610 is the race for two bearings, L44643 and L44649. In order to pick out the correct hub assembly for a trailer you are going to need know a few key pieces of information. The first thing you will need to know is the bolt pattern of your hubs. This is so you get a hub that is compatible with your wheels. I attached an FAQ article on determining bolt pattern for you to check out. Next thing you will need...
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  • Inner and Outer Bearing and Grease Seal for Older Trailer
    We carry bearings, races and a seal that are very, very close to your measurements but not exact. For example, the inside bearing we carry is # L68149 and it has a 1.378" inner diameter; the correct race for this is # L68111. For the outer bearing we carry # L44649 which has a 1.063" inner diameter and the matching race is # L44610. Finally there is the grease seal, for which we carry # 58846 which has an inner diameter of 1.719". You could get all of these parts together...
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  • Replacement Hub Assembly for T.D.E. 11033
    From what I was able to find out from my research, the Tie Down Engineering 11033 hub has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern and is designed for 3500-lb axles. Replacement hubs that have these specs typically use a # L68149 inner bearing and # L44649 outer bearing, as well as inner race # L68111 , outer race # L44610 and grease seals with inner diameter of 1.719" and outer diameter of 2.565". You'll want to verify that your current hubs have these bearings, races and seals to ensure that a...
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  • Can 1 Inch Trailer Hub Bearings Replace 1-1/16 Inch Bearings
    If your existing hub uses 1-1/16 inch bearings, they will need to be replaced the exact same size bearings and races, # L44649, and # L44610. We also have the complete bearing kit available as part # BK1-150, which includes two 1-1/16 bearings and matching races, as well as a grease seal, cotter pin and EZ Lube spindle washer. Although one sixteenth of an inch may not seem like much of a difference, no parts are more critical for the dependable performance of your trailer than the bearings,...
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  • Is the Bearing Kit # BK1-100 Correct for my Trailer
    The closest bearing and seal that we have to what you measured is found in the bearing kit # BK1-100 which is for a BT8 spindle. It comes with 2 bearings, 2 races, 1 grease seal, and a cotter pin. The bearing part # L44643 is for both the inner and outer bearing. It has an inner diameter of 1.000" while the included race, part # L44610, has an outer diameter of 1.98" which sounds like what you have. For the seal in the kit we have part # 34823 which has an inner diameter of 1.249"...
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  • Bearings and Seal Recommendation for Dexter 3,000 lb Axle
    Thanks for the picture of the tag on your Dexter trailer axle. From that I can tell you have a 3,000 lb Dexter axle. There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. You will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649. For replacement brake assemblies you'd...
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  • Brakes, Bearings and Grease Seal for Dexter 8-247 Hubs
    Thank you for that info and we have everything you need. An 8-247 hub and drum, which is the same as Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 84546UC3 uses Inner Bearing # L68149, Outer Bearing # L44649, Inner Race # L68111, Outer Race # L44610 and Grease Seal # 58846. These parts are all available in Bearing Kit # BK2-100. For your brakes the correct replacements are Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Left Hand # 23-26 and Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Right Hand # 23-27....
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal for the EZ Loader Kit 300-015907
    The bearings, races, and grease seal that are included in the EZ Loader bearing kit 300-015907 that you referenced are found as parts # L68149, # L68111, # L44649, # L44610, and # 168255TB.
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  • Replacement Bearings, Seals, and Races for Unique #84 Spindle/Hub
    According to the part numbers you gave it looks like you need outer bearing # L44649 with the matching race # L44610, inner bearing # L68149 with the matching race # L68111, and then the grease seal # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688" and outer diameter of 2.332" which fits unique #84 spindle/hub combinations. This seal has the same dimensions of a 16667 seal that is commonly used on a vehicle. The bearing kit # BK2-100 that you referenced has all of the bearings and races...
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  • Replacement hub Parts for 3,000 lb Dexter Axle With Bearings LM67048 and L44649
    There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. Obviously, you will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit and Bearing Buddy Grease Caps for 2012 Triton LT Trailer with Reliable Axle
    The owner's manual for the Reliable axle on your Triton PWC trailer indicates that the bearing used on the axle of your weight rating is # L44643. This part serves as both inner and outer bearing according to the manual, which I linked for you. We sell this bearing as an individual part and also as part of a complete bearing kit # BK1-100 which includes 2 of bearing # L44643, 2 of race # L44610, 1 grease seal # 34823 and a cotter pin. You'll need two kits per axle. The hub that uses...
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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Installed by:
Randy B
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Video by:
Zach D

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