Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal

Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal

Item # BK2-100

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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BK2-100 - Standard Bearings,Bearing Kits etrailer Bearings
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44649 and L68149
  • Race L68111 and L44610
Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal part number BK2-100 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK2-100

Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal


Features:

  • Kit includes
    • One inner bearing and race
    • One outer bearing and race
    • Grease seal
    • Cotter pin - for standard spindle applications
    • Tang washer - for EZ-Lube spindle applications


Outer Bearing
Outer Race
Inner Bearing
Inner Race
Seal
Seal I.D.
Seal O.D.
L44649
L44610
L68149
L68111
10-19
1.719"
2.565"


BK2-100 Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal







Video of Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal - BK2-100

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (1015 Customer Reviews)

Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal

- BK2-100
by:

This bearing kit appears to be of decent quality and contains the parts necessary to replace the bearings and seal for the Dexter 3500 # axles on my trailer. I only used the bearings, races and seal as I re-used the other original parts for the EZ Lube hub. 560740



- BK2-100
by:

Replaced wheel bearings on my tandem axle trailer. Used bearing cross reference to find complete kit I needed for my spindle. Order process very convenient and everything shipped correctly. The how-to video link with the confirmation email was very helpful. 572574



- BK2-100
by:

I had some issues trying to figure out the correct bearings for my trailer with no numbers left visible on my bearings. The staff at etrailer was very helpful providing me information to figure out exactly what I needed. I was also under a time crunch to get my trailer back on the road. They was very helpful in this department also making sure items were shipped promptly . Great job to etrailer staff. 567400



- BK2-100
by:

Would have given better review but the way the bearings and seals were packaged was poor. All parts were loose in a bag not in separate boxes like I am used too. Seals ended up having small indentions (tears) in them. Hope they dont leak... 574424



- BK2-100
by:

My 1st experience with E-trailer. Everything about the service and the product was as good as it can be. Tiffany was top-notch helper. She identified the strange axle in question, identified the kit of bearings to fit it, and expedited shipment. Kit parts were correct, were installed without any problem, and the16-yr old trailer is back in operation. Thanks, E-T. 575663



- BK2-100
by:

Used to replace old bearings. Product solved bad bearing problem. Wheel now spins with very little friction. Information on how to change bearings was very helpful. I purchase most of my trailer parts needs from etrailer because of the technical assistance in getting the correct part and installation information. 554365



- BK2-100
by:

I haven't had time to install the bearings but they appear to be of excellent quality. I can't believe the price and the bearing kit included both races. It's a good idea to send reviews out to customers - you'll get some bad ones and have a good chance of fixing problems 228536


Comments

Still good and appears as good as original

John - 09/29/2016

21315

- BK2-100
by:

My local auto parts store didn't have this. etrailer did. I bought a used cargo trailer and went to pack the bearings. Upon inspection, I found it needed new bearings. I went over to my local auto parts store and they could only find one bearing with race and it cost $12. The could not find the outer bearing or the inner seal. Without a year, make and model, they were useless. I went to the etrailer website and looked up the part numbers and found this kit. The whole kit cost $12 and change and included the lock washer and cotter pin. What a deal! I replaced bearings, races and seals on both sides for a fraction of the auto parts store price (if they could have even found the parts). For future use, I wrote the information inside my trailer. 521211



- BK2-100
by:

Bearing kits were as specified. Julie found the matching set very fast. I ordered one set as a spare. Our travel to Florida each year is about 1300 miles. One of the wheels had excessive play upon reaching our destination. Although the bearings looked OK, I thought it best to change them out. The price of these kits is well below that of other dealers. I plan to change out the brake assemblies this summer and go with the self adjusting Dexter units that etrailer offers. It's a pleasure doing business with etrailer. Quick service, and people who know what they're talking about. 478354



- BK2-100
by:

The grease seals seam to be a little big on the I.D. I cant keep the grease out of my brakes. 570890



- BK2-100
by:

Fit exactly with no problems. Shipping as promised. The old grease seal showed #171255 and the new #10-19 but measured with my plastic vernier caliper and it shows exact ID and OD. Installed on my 2005 Fleetwood/Coleman Victory 3959 PopUP. First trailer ever and wasn't 100% sure about the grease seal. The Fleetwood/Coleman American series repair parts catalog shows Seal Crossover number K71-303-00 which appears to be an old number which nobody uses. Everything else about installing, ordering, techinques I learned from eTrailer's videos and articles for which I am very thankful. 224214


Comments

Working perfectly! Thanks

raul - 09/04/2016

20802

- BK2-100
by:

Everything as advertised. I did the install with no BK2-100 issues. 576155



- BK2-100
by:

Good quality bearings/grease seal. Fits perfectly and the website have very good information about how to do the job:-) Nice purchase, I am happy with it, and delivery was fast. 78050


Comments

Great product and service at etrailer, as usual! Never had a problem buying from etrailer, actually Ill order, pretty soon, new brake system for my trailer do to rusty old one! The bearings I installed over a year ago still tight and greasedno water proving one more time good quality product! The double lip seal is a good idea to keep water out and better lasting seal! Overall very happy with my purchase!:- Keep it up etrailer!

Sidney O - 04/29/2014

3842

- BK2-100
by:

Very satisfied. Good price, good selection. Found the right part easily 563926



- BK2-100
by:

Did come in plastic bags like it was from a bulk box but they had them wrapped tightly and nicely so there was no issue. Everything looked legit and nice quality couldn't be happier since it was going to cost me more at the box store for parts. I installed but haven't pulled the trailer down the road yet but I imagine there won't be any issues. Install was great. 122663


Comments

Pulled the trailer to the lake a handful of times last year and a few hundred miles across state there and back this year, still smooth and working as they should. I also run bearing buddies for the caps and these bearing are on the jet ski trailer. Would also suggest bearing buddies for water applications.

Jaydogg - 03/28/2015

10415

- BK2-100
by:

The kit was complete, of excellent quality, and the service was as promised. I will continue to use this vendor for all my trailer needs. I currently own 5 tandem axle trailers of varying lengths, weight capacities and purposes and it's nice to know that all maintenance and repair parts can be obtaines at a reasonable cost from a single source. 62570


Comments

The product has permed as expected. No problems at all and shows no signs of early wear or impending failure.

George R - 07/08/2014

5430

- BK2-100
by:

I have a BigTex 70CH tandem axle car trailer that was eating tires. All the wheel bearings seemed to have some play, so I shopped around and the best deal I could find was from etrailer. Ordered four BK2-100 wheel bearing kits which included two bearing and race assemblies (inner and outer) a grease seal and tang washer/cotter pin in each kit. Ordered Sunday 4/9 using standard economy shipping. Items arrived Saturday 4/15. Fit flawlessly. Videos on tracking website were very helpful with the installation. I recommend etrailer for this type of part, and will certainly buy from them again. 368348



- BK2-100
by:

After ready so many good reviews my expectations of etrailer were high and was sadly dissappointed when my trailer bearing replacement kit showed up 3 days late and with all the pieces loose in small bubble wrap envelope. I expected better packaging for something so crucial that Im relying on. And the parts were all thrown together carelessly. Will be closely inspecting everthing and hoping for no damage. Will be returning if there is! Dissappointed... 432052



- BK2-100
by:

I recently purchased a flood salvage travel trailer and for the most part it is still in excellent shape. However, I thought I had better repack the bearings that were probably exposed to water. When I took the hubs apart, I found that the bearings on one side were in very good shape but the other side was another story. The bearings were rusted and frozen and the races were noticably worn so this rebuild kit was just what I needed. One tip I found that worked out well was to take each of the old races and cut a radial slit all the way through it with an angle grinder. The slit should be a little larger than an eighth of an inch. This allows you to use the old race to drive in the new one. The slit allows the old race to compress into a sligthly smaller diameter so you can easily remove it once the new race has been fully driven into place. On my hubs, I needed to drive the new races a little more than the depth of one race so I actually needed a second old race to stack on the first to get it all the way in. The outer driver was just barely seated so there was no need to cut a slit in it. So, now I feel much better that my wheels should perform like new with a new set of bearings and races and packed with a good waterproof grease. With the EZ-Lube spindles, it should be easy to keep these bearings in good shape. 33941



- BK2-100
by:

fast service an friendly was great doing business with etrailer would use them again if their services are needed. We are using their product to build a set of tow dollies for my wrecker. By getting what we needed from etrailer we saved $1,080. dollars over what a set of dollies cost new an our build is just as good as the ones you pay 1,400.00 for. Along with the savings the girl at etrailer took the time to talk with me an to search over their inventory to make sure we got the parts that were right for our build. Most try to rush you an get you off the phone an never take the time to listen to the needs of the customer like etrailer does. Often i go to parts stores for parts for things i am building that are not for what they are intended for an the person at the counter does not want to hear you describe what you are building so they might be able to get a part that will work once they find out its not for what their computer says it fits its all over in their mind but etrailer goes the extra mile to listen to the build layout to insure they get it right an to me customer service such as this is rare an a true value to the customer. Thank you again for the EXCELLENT customer service you provide. We are planing to provide pictures of our finished product within a few day. 306833



- BK2-100
by:

I am skeptical about using Chinese bearings on safety sensitive on-highway equipment. I wish you would offer a more expensive but higher quality equivalent part such as Timken. I will use these parts for running spares but will order higher quality bearings from another source for over the road use. 101927


Comments

Weve been building selling / repairing trailers for over 20 years... to the letter, almost every American axle we purchase Dexter, Quality, Al-Ko, Rockwell, etc use Chinese manufactured bearings in them. I, too, am skeptical about imported quality... but in my experience there is absolutely no discernible inherent difference between the bearings. If anything, I have seen more failures from some of the name brands though I suspect this is from the poor installation process followed, from DIY folks picking some up at their local NAPA and not understanding how to properly pack a bearing or the right mount of torque to use when reinstalling the hub. Sure, there are some poorer quality imported bearings out there. Knowing which is which could make your point valid - with Timken you know what you are getting. But I can say that the VAST majority of the axles, bearings and bearing kits we get from the major distributors have Chinese/imported bearings in them and perform well. As with most things, know-how is the most important part. Install properly, maintain them on schedule - no more problems.

-- comment by: Jimmy P - 02/10/2014

2753

- BK2-100
by:

Took a noisey hub apart, got the bearing and race numbers and tried to match 'em up and found "etrailer.com" has a kit. Got the new parts in a couple days and put it back together. Everyting fit perfectly. None of the local parts stores had kits with the correct parts in it for what I needed. No need to worry about "China" parts from etrailer.com. It had me concerned a couple years ago, but if you keep up on the PM, they work just great for cheaper. No problems here. Will use etrailer.com again. 190154



- BK2-100
by:

I've put a ton of harsh loaded miles on this bearing set in the past year and they're all still snug! 561013



- BK2-100
by:

I bought two of these kits so I could replace both sides or my trailer. I have a Axis Products 3,500 lb rated axle with the Safe-T-Lube spindles (like the Dexter system.) The inner bearing should fit an 1-3/8" shoulder, and the outer bearing should fit an 1-1/16" shoulder. All the parts in this kit fit great, the seal, inner bearing and race, outer bearing and race, and tang washer. You will reuse the D-type washer (against the outer bearing, and before the tang washer) and the castle nut. I didn't bother trying to save the seals that were on the hub originally or the bearings/races. I did use a mallet, flat screwdriver, a seal/bearing install kit (etrailer sells a similar one,) and my Lincoln grease gun with Mobil 1 Synthetic grease (the red kind as this is not a boating trailer or subjected to water submersion. Just make sure that your spindle is free or burrs and rust (mine wasn't and took some filing/fine sanding) and that you drive the races into the hubs square. The first side took longer to install due to learning some tricks, but the second side took about two hours with shaft care and cleaning things taking most of the time/effort. This kit makes rebuilding easy. Will order and install again if needed. Highly recommended. 270775



- BK2-100
by:

I bought these as spares for my Eagle Ultra Utility trailer. They appear to be exact matches to the existing set. I was very pleased with the price for the complete kit. E-trailer got them to me fast along with my other items. I will keep the bearings with me on the road for peace of mind. 225693



- BK2-100
by:

Perfect kit for 3500 lb axles. Replaced all 4 inner and outer bearings and fortunately only had to replace 2 outer races. But still can't beat the price for this kit versus ordering parts separately. Also ordered the Powerbuilt Deluxe Bearing Packer (ALL648594) to speed things along. Finished the project with Grease Caps, 1.986" OD EZ Lube (RG04-040) and the matching Dust Cap Driver Tool - Small - for 1.986" Grease Caps (290-99). Photo after first hub completed. 226172



- BK2-100
by:

The bearing kit was intended for a Dexter 3500lb EZ-Lube torque flex axle w/ electric brakes. When I ordered, I asked eTrailer to ensure I had ordered the proper parts, but after they shipped them, they told me that they could not verify what they'd fit, and the only way to be sure was to disassemble my axle and records the part numbers FIRST. Fortunately, the parts fit perfectly, Too bad eTrailer doesn't have a cross-reference parts list for what parts actually fit what. Having to disassemble things before ordering makes the device unusable until the parts are received. Fortunately, eTrailer shipped my parts 2-Day Priority, and I had them in jig-time. This is not my first eTrailer purchase and I am very happy with their service and prices. 119700



- BK2-100
by:

I ordered two sets of bearings for a trailer. It was easy to find the right ones and to order. I chose the regular shipping and so received them in about 7 days, as expected (could have gotten faster shipping, but did not need right away). Was very happy with locating the right ones, the processing, and when I got the order. 145119


Comments

I installed the bearings in my Arctic Fox trailer a few months later. To date, they are working great. I think the secret to good bearing life is good quality products, proper bearing tension, and repacking on a regular interval. I try to order most of my parts through you folks as I have had good service.

Cliff H - 08/14/2015

14255

- BK2-100
by:

Did realize that the Bearing kit does not come with a cap and axle nut. I have ordered Bearing kits before and they included these. Ordering on this site however is simple and easy to find what you need. Communication with etrailer is great too. 642521



- BK2-100
by:

Fast shipping to DALLAS tx. Fits perfec tly 640274



- BK2-100
by:

Delivered on time and parts were received as ordered. We have used etrailer in the past for our boat trailer and it’s always been a stress free experience. Easy returns as well. 640074



- BK2-100
by:

Bought these for our pop up camper. Still working well over a year later. 639783



- BK2-100
by:

Great product. Great service. 639742



- BK2-100
by:

Order arrived as expected - quality as expected. It turned out that our trailer had only been driven 500 miles, so upon inspection, the grease and bearings were like brand new, so I repacked them, put new seals on and will carry the new set with me for future needs (That I probably won't need because I'm fussy about these kinds of situations and maintenance.) We're loving our relationship with etrailer!!! 638714



- BK2-100
by:

This is my second time I ordered trailer parts from etrailer . I love u guys great service excellent selection and how too videos!!!! Have everything that u need for trailers!!!! Thank you guys looking forward too business with you guys again!!!!! 638675



- BK2-100
by:

Very happy with this product and the delivery time. I will buy from again! 638348



- BK2-100
by:

Great product price an shipping 637589



- BK2-100
by:

The trailer bearings, races, seals are working great after a year on the boat trailer. Durable. I have driven my boat trailer (approximate weight w/boat ~3000 lbs) to Canada (2000 mi, RT), Arkansas (1000 mi, RT), Michigan (1000 mi, RT) and in-and-around locally (~1000 mi) with no issues. I have an IR temp gun and temps of the bearings are always 102 or less when I stop to check. Will buy again. 636359



- BK2-100
by:

I just installed one of the 2 sets that I purchased from you everything was excellent exact parts fast shipping and great customer service!!!!!!! I am ordering 2 more sets as I finish writing this thank you again!!!! And your how two videos were very helpful 634251



- BK2-100
by:

I was able to change out my bearings in a couple of minutes great product great price 633809



- BK2-100
by:

etrailer.com had the correct items to repair my trailer and at a competitive price. Delivery was super quick and shipping very reasonable. After the items were placed in transit, I received a courtesy email to let me know my shipment was on it's way. It was great to be recognized as a repeat customer as well! I will definitely be using etrailer.com for additional parts in the future. 633401



- BK2-100
by:

Parts were as stated...complete with all items and Very Prompt delivery...Now after almost a year of service and perhaps 1,000 miles on the Tandem Trailer with heavy loads...Everything is tight and Dry...! Thanks for good product and Service..! 629303



- BK2-100
by:

excellent bearing set 629294



- BK2-100
by:

fast shipping correct parts what else is needed 625402



- BK2-100
by:

Exactly the bearing and seal kit I needed. Quality materials. Fast and accurate shipping. Fair price. 619762



- BK2-100
by:

Quick shipping and everything I needed to replace my trailer bearings, would highly recommend! 618010



- BK2-100
by:

Called etrailer to find bearings for a 2005 single axle boat trailer, I had no idea of exactly what I needed but CSR Donna P. worked with me and informed me the information she needed to assist me. I was able to find out the bearing numbers needed from trailer mfg. and called back and spoke with CSR Donna P and she was able to find the products I needed, got them ordered and personally followed the order to completion. In all my dealings with various companies I would rate etrailer and Donna P. as the best company with customer service I have had the pleasure of dealing with. Thank you. 616966



- BK2-100
by:

Excellent service as usual. 616652



- BK2-100
by:

Product was as described. I was able to find a direct replacement for hubbed drums. 616105



- BK2-100
by:

I have twice used this set of bearing parts to replace the bearings of my travel trailer. The fit of these parts was good and they held up well under travel mostly on paved roads. People use many schemes for determining when to pack and replace bearings in travel trailers. I chose to replace my bearings every other year while using EZ lube process in the off years. The price of these bearing kits is low enough to facilitate changing them often. As always the etrailer is my goto source of trailer related parts. The staff is always helpful. The parts descriptions are thorough. And, the shipping is fast. 615174


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Stainless Steel Kodiak Disc Brakes for 3,500 Pound # 84 Spindle
  • A # 84 spindle, like # R40484, is a spindle for a 3,500 pound axle that has inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649. The bearing kit that fits is # BK2-100. To replace your brakes and hubs you'll need the Kodiak Stainless Steel Brake Kit # K2R35S with hubs # KH84545S. You'll also need the bearing kit # BK2-100 that I mentioned earlier.
    view full answer...

  • Dexter EZ Lube Bearing Kit Recommendation for 3500 lb EZ Lube Spindle that Includes Nut Retainers
  • The most cost effective way to get the nut retainers is to get the part # BK2-100 and then instead of using the cotter pins use the part # RG05-100 instead. The kit for your hub isn't available and by the time you piece all of the components together it's more cost effective to just get the kit.
    view full answer...

  • What Grease Seals Do I Need For An # 84 Spindle
  • If the inner diameter bearing on your spindle measures 1.38" and the outer diameter bearing measures to be 1.06", then you have a #84 spindle such as part # R40484 rated for 3,500 lb. trailer axles. The correct grease seals for this spindle are Grease Seal - Double Lip part # 58846 which has an inner diameter of 1.719" and an outer diameter of 2.565". As the grease seals are a very tight fit, you may want to use a block of wood and mallet to get the seals to seat properly. Attached is...
    view full answer...

  • Is an Oil Bath System Compatible with EZ Lube Spindle # R20384EZ
  • Yes, you should have no problems using an Oil Bath System, like part # XLPROLUBE1980KIT, with a number 84 EZ Lube Spindle, like part # R20384EZ. A few things to keep in mind when installing an oil bath system. You will want to make sure that everything is sealed up properly because oil is a liquid and if you have a major leak you will lose your lubrication. When you install the body and cap you will need to make sure that it is installed all the way in your hub and is not crooked. If...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hub and Rotor Assembly with 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern for 3,500 Pound Trailer Axle
  • From my research the hub and rotor assembly you're looking for is for a 3,500 pound axle with a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. It uses bearings # L68149 and # L44649 and has a Dacromet finish for marine use. If the bearing numbers match you can use # KHR10D for a replacement hub and rotor. The bearing kit that goes with it is # BK2-100
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter Idler Hub Assembly for 3500 lb Axles # 84545BX
  • The bearing replacements I recommend for the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 3,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 # 84545BX are: Inner bearing: # L68149 (1.378" inner diameter) Outer bearing: # L44649 (1.063" inner diameter) If you need the grease seal, I recommend # 58846 or # RG06-050 which have the same measurements. You can get everything in a kit using just the Bearing Kit for 84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal # BK2-100. You may also be interested in...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Parts For A Dexter 3,500 Lbs Axle Part # 35545E-ST-EZ-89
  • According to the manufacturer, the Homestead Challenger Trailers are equipped from the factory with 3,500 lb axles with electric brakes. For these axles you will need the following: 2 Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Kit part # 23-26-27 (Manual-Adjust) Or 2 Electric Trailer Brake Kit part # AKEBRK-35-SA (Self-Adjusting) And 4 Bearing Kits for #84 Spindles part # BK2-100 I have attached a few articles for your consideration in addition to a review of the products I have recommended.
    view full answer...

  • Bearings and Seal for a 3,500 lb Dexter Torflex Axle
  • I took a look at the manual, and the outer bearing for a #10 Torflex Dexter axle would be outer bearing # L44649 and outer race # L44610; inner bearing # L68149 and inner race # L68111; and seal # 58846. That would make bearing kit # BK2-100 the correct choice for your axle and includes each of these parts. For a Bearing Buddy you would want to use # BB1980A. I have included links to video reviews of each of these products for you to take a look at.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy and Bearing Kit Recommendation for 3,500 lb Axles
  • For standard 3,500 lb axles the correct bearing kit is the part # BK2-100 which comes with L44649 and L68149 bearings. Bearing Buddy Protectors # BB1980A-SS are the ones most commonly seen on 3,500 lb hubs. This is designed to fit a hub bore of 1.980 inches.
    view full answer...

  • How to Determine if Kodiak Disc Brake Kit K2R35DKG Will Fit a Trailer
  • As long as your axle has 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern idler hubs plus a brake mounting flange the Kodiak Disc Brake kit part # K2R35DKG will fit it. Look for a plate behind the spindle with 4 bolt holes in it for the flange. As long as the hubs of your trailer take L44649/L68149 bearings the bearing kit part # BK2-100 will fit them. As long as the trailer has a 3 inch wide frame channel the Demco part # 8608611 will fit. The tandem brake line kit part # 24TA-BLKIT will work with the...
    view full answer...

  • How to Find Replacement Drum Brake Assembly for Boat Trailer
  • I can tell you exactly how to find compatible drum brake assemblies, though I took a look and could not find any type of reference to Dico 40511. To determine the brake assemblies that will fit your 2002 Escort boat trailer, you need to know your axle's weight capacity, your mounting flange bolt pattern and the inside diameter and depth of your drum. For example, Hydraulic Brake Kit # AKFBBRK-35-D are rated for 3,500 lb axles, have a 4-bolt mounting flange pattern and measure 10"...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Recommendation for Trailer with LM48548 and L68149
  • We have the bearings you are looking for. You would want part # LM48548 and # L44649. These are not identical though. Then for a grease seal set you'd want the part # RG06-050.
    view full answer...

  • Stainless Steel Trailer Disc Brake Parts Recommendations
  • For stainless steel brake parts the various components will have to be pieced together. You could go with a combination of dacromet and stainless steel parts using # K2HR35DS. With this kit the calipers are stainless and the rotors are dacromet. For stainless rotors and calipers you could use 2 of kit # K1HR35S. This kit comes with the bearings, races, and seal. Kit # K2HR35DS does not but would use 1 bearing kit # BK2-100 per wheel. For a brake line kit you can use # 18SI-BLKIT...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing and Brake Assembly Kit Recommendation for Dexter Hub 8-250
  • From previous customers we have determined that the Dexter 8-250 hub bearings are # L68149 and # L44649 which means for a bearing kit you would need # BK2-100. That means for brake assemblies you would need the part # AKEBRK-35R-SA for the right hand side and part # AKEBRK-35L-SA for the left hand side.
    view full answer...


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