Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal
Features:
| Seal | ||||||
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.
It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.
And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...
We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.
Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (1152 Customer Reviews)
Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip SealParts were what was requested, delivered quickly, and were much cheaper than any auto parts store. Only suggestion, was expecting bearings to be in sealed plastic bags, there is no rust or visible damage, I’m just used to things packaged differently. 729797
Haven't installed bearings yet. But I will say etrailer's shipping is high and slow! 726642
Replaced when I replaced the entire brake unit one year ago. After approx. 4000 miles all is well! 714733
Very satisfied. Good price, good selection. Found the right part easily 563926
I HAVE ORDERED SEVERAL TIMES FROM ETRAILER, AND ALWAYS A GREAT EXPERIENCE. WEBSITE IS EASY TO LOOK UP STUFF AND EASY TO ORDER. PARTS SHOW UP AS PROMISED, QUALITY IS AS DESCRIBED, EVERYTHING FITS CORRECTLY. I ACTUALLY HAVE ANOTHER PART TO ORDER SHORTLY, LOOKING FORWARD TO DOING MORE BUSINESS WITH ETRAILER.... THANKS AGAIN, CHARLIE 706683
I bought these as spares for my Eagle Ultra Utility trailer. They appear to be exact matches to the existing set. I was very pleased with the price for the complete kit. E-trailer got them to me fast along with my other items. I will keep the bearings with me on the road for peace of mind. 225693
The kit was complete, of excellent quality, and the service was as promised. I will continue to use this vendor for all my trailer needs. I currently own 5 tandem axle trailers of varying lengths, weight capacities and purposes and it's nice to know that all maintenance and repair parts can be obtaines at a reasonable cost from a single source. 62570
George R - 07/08/2014My 1st experience with E-trailer. Everything about the service and the product was as good as it can be. Tiffany was top-notch helper. She identified the strange axle in question, identified the kit of bearings to fit it, and expedited shipment. Kit parts were correct, were installed without any problem, and the16-yr old trailer is back in operation. Thanks, E-T. 575663
Did come in plastic bags like it was from a bulk box but they had them wrapped tightly and nicely so there was no issue. Everything looked legit and nice quality couldn't be happier since it was going to cost me more at the box store for parts. I installed but haven't pulled the trailer down the road yet but I imagine there won't be any issues. Install was great. 122663
Jaydogg - 03/28/2015After ready so many good reviews my expectations of etrailer were high and was sadly dissappointed when my trailer bearing replacement kit showed up 3 days late and with all the pieces loose in small bubble wrap envelope. I expected better packaging for something so crucial that Im relying on. And the parts were all thrown together carelessly. Will be closely inspecting everthing and hoping for no damage. Will be returning if there is! Dissappointed... 432052
Replaced wheel bearings on my tandem axle trailer. Used bearing cross reference to find complete kit I needed for my spindle. Order process very convenient and everything shipped correctly. The how-to video link with the confirmation email was very helpful. 572574
I have a BigTex 70CH tandem axle car trailer that was eating tires. All the wheel bearings seemed to have some play, so I shopped around and the best deal I could find was from etrailer. Ordered four BK2-100 wheel bearing kits which included two bearing and race assemblies (inner and outer) a grease seal and tang washer/cotter pin in each kit. Ordered Sunday 4/9 using standard economy shipping. Items arrived Saturday 4/15. Fit flawlessly. Videos on tracking website were very helpful with the installation. I recommend etrailer for this type of part, and will certainly buy from them again. 368348
I bought two of these kits so I could replace both sides or my trailer. I have a Axis Products 3,500 lb rated axle with the Safe-T-Lube spindles (like the Dexter system.) The inner bearing should fit an 1-3/8" shoulder, and the outer bearing should fit an 1-1/16" shoulder. All the parts in this kit fit great, the seal, inner bearing and race, outer bearing and race, and tang washer. You will reuse the D-type washer (against the outer bearing, and before the tang washer) and the castle nut. I didn't bother trying to save the seals that were on the hub originally or the bearings/races. I did use a mallet, flat screwdriver, a seal/bearing install kit (etrailer sells a similar one,) and my Lincoln grease gun with Mobil 1 Synthetic grease (the red kind as this is not a boating trailer or subjected to water submersion. Just make sure that your spindle is free or burrs and rust (mine wasn't and took some filing/fine sanding) and that you drive the races into the hubs square. The first side took longer to install due to learning some tricks, but the second side took about two hours with shaft care and cleaning things taking most of the time/effort. This kit makes rebuilding easy. Will order and install again if needed. Highly recommended. 270775
I am skeptical about using Chinese bearings on safety sensitive on-highway equipment. I wish you would offer a more expensive but higher quality equivalent part such as Timken. I will use these parts for running spares but will order higher quality bearings from another source for over the road use. 101927
I had some issues trying to figure out the correct bearings for my trailer with no numbers left visible on my bearings. The staff at etrailer was very helpful providing me information to figure out exactly what I needed. I was also under a time crunch to get my trailer back on the road. They was very helpful in this department also making sure items were shipped promptly . Great job to etrailer staff. 567400
This bearing kit appears to be of decent quality and contains the parts necessary to replace the bearings and seal for the Dexter 3500 # axles on my trailer. I only used the bearings, races and seal as I re-used the other original parts for the EZ Lube hub. 560740
Would have given better review but the way the bearings and seals were packaged was poor. All parts were loose in a bag not in separate boxes like I am used too. Seals ended up having small indentions (tears) in them. Hope they dont leak... 574424
Everything as advertised. I did the install with no BK2-100 issues. 576155
Fit exactly with no problems. Shipping as promised. The old grease seal showed #171255 and the new #10-19 but measured with my plastic vernier caliper and it shows exact ID and OD. Installed on my 2005 Fleetwood/Coleman Victory 3959 PopUP. First trailer ever and wasn't 100% sure about the grease seal. The Fleetwood/Coleman American series repair parts catalog shows Seal Crossover number K71-303-00 which appears to be an old number which nobody uses. Everything else about installing, ordering, techinques I learned from eTrailer's videos and articles for which I am very thankful. 224214
raul - 09/04/2016The grease seals seam to be a little big on the I.D. I cant keep the grease out of my brakes. 570890
My local auto parts store didn't have this. etrailer did. I bought a used cargo trailer and went to pack the bearings. Upon inspection, I found it needed new bearings. I went over to my local auto parts store and they could only find one bearing with race and it cost $12. The could not find the outer bearing or the inner seal. Without a year, make and model, they were useless. I went to the etrailer website and looked up the part numbers and found this kit. The whole kit cost $12 and change and included the lock washer and cotter pin. What a deal! I replaced bearings, races and seals on both sides for a fraction of the auto parts store price (if they could have even found the parts). For future use, I wrote the information inside my trailer. 521211
I haven't had time to install the bearings but they appear to be of excellent quality. I can't believe the price and the bearing kit included both races. It's a good idea to send reviews out to customers - you'll get some bad ones and have a good chance of fixing problems 228536
John - 09/29/2016Used to replace old bearings. Product solved bad bearing problem. Wheel now spins with very little friction. Information on how to change bearings was very helpful. I purchase most of my trailer parts needs from etrailer because of the technical assistance in getting the correct part and installation information. 554365
Bearing kits were as specified. Julie found the matching set very fast. I ordered one set as a spare. Our travel to Florida each year is about 1300 miles. One of the wheels had excessive play upon reaching our destination. Although the bearings looked OK, I thought it best to change them out. The price of these kits is well below that of other dealers. I plan to change out the brake assemblies this summer and go with the self adjusting Dexter units that etrailer offers. It's a pleasure doing business with etrailer. Quick service, and people who know what they're talking about. 478354
Good quality bearings/grease seal. Fits perfectly and the website have very good information about how to do the job:-) Nice purchase, I am happy with it, and delivery was fast. 78050
Sidney O - 04/29/2014Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?
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