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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Item # L44643

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 1.000 Inch I.D. L44643
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 1.000 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44643
  • Race L44610
High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 part number L44643 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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  • Reviews (75)
  • Q & A (168)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44643

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.000"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L44610
  • Application: inner/outer bearing for BT8 spindle


L44643 Replacement Bearing







Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 - L44643

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (75 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L44643
by:

Great product, easy to find, got exactly what I ordered. I will definitely order again. 641266



- L44643
by:

Put new bearings in some old tow dolly wheels I cut apart to make a fuel dolly cart for our loader . Rolls nicely even full of fuel! Thanks guys! 627958



- L44643
by:

Perfect fit and works great. Thanks. 597677



- L44643
by:

Excellent service! Parts were delivered on time and was an exact fit! 590013



- L44643
by:

Best price . Fast shipping. Great service and communication. I will always shop with Etrailet. Thank you ! 574380



- L44643
by:

Great service! 553308



- L44643
by:

Got my stuff fast And good prices 551787



- L44643
by:

Great product great pricing quick to ship great seller communication would recommend to anyone 548285



- L44643
by:

The bearings were what i needed. Description of parts were correct. 517986



- L44643
by:

Can't beat the delivery!!!! 516261



- L44643
by:

Just what I needed at a great price the only thing that could have been better was the way they were packed. 512344


Comments

I sold that trailer but if I need anything else this is my go to place.

Howard Z - 05/23/2019

55694

- L44643
by:

Excellent Products and Service! 509631



- L44643
by:

very fast shipping, great item, perfect fit, 100% thanks. 484187



- L44643
by:

I have bought them before they work fin e. 483183



- L44643
by:

Went together as per plan and has been working fine ever since. 481272



- L44643
by:

IT WAS VERY DISAPPOINTED UPON RECEIVING MY BEARINGS. IT DID NOT INCLUDE THE RACES, NEVER HEARD OF THIS. 460595



- L44643
by:

Bearings where accurate as ordered. 457623



- L44643
by:

Excellent Price , Service and Delivery!!! I Enjoy the ease of ordering from your company. 455858



- L44643
by:

Quick delivery. Just what I needed. Tha nks! 443353



- L44643
by:

I just got it but it looks just like the old one, has the same part number so it should be fine I would have given it 5 stars but it is made in China. 440668



- L44643
by:

It's the size bearing that I needed to a sled trailer. Appear higher quality than what I removed. 439485



- L44643
by:

I am very satisfied with my products. I have only ordered a few times from e-trailer in the past year, but each time has been an excellent experience. 437598



- L44643
by:

Parts were sent as ordered. Delivery only took a few days and the parts fit the application. 432370



- L44643
by:

Haven't had any issues in the year I've had them in the trailer 431493



- L44643
by:

Thank you for saving me from buying a new trailer! 383901



- L44643
by:

Excellent still going. The service from these people is EXCELLENT 369452



- L44643
by:

Perfect fit. Good service. 362172



- L44643
by:

Excellent product 348607



- L44643
by:

Thumbs up 334516



- L44643
by:

For perfect, good value 327672



- L44643
by:

Product is what I ordered and good quality.. fast shipping...Cheaper that my local store(with shipping) and as always I had rather shop online than bother going in to town.. I have had to call etrailer before because of my mistake...they changed my order without any cost to me... 320864



- L44643
by:

Product is what I ordered and good quality.. fast shipping...Cheaper that my local store(with shipping) and as always I had rather shop online than bother going in to town.. I have had to call etrailer before because of my mistake...they changed my order without any cost to me... 320863



- L44643
by:

Great service and free shipping!!! 318425



- L44643
by:

Item as described and at a good price 308666



- L44643
by:

Good 307256



- L44643
by:

Great service and product, great delivery of parts Thank you Rex 304537



- L44643
by:

Good service shipped fast ordered another set 299786



- L44643
by:

Excellent bearings, races, buddies, and mounted tires on rims. Makes my rebuild of a 1974 trailer new again. Easy website, fast delivery, better price than anywhere including wallyworld. Great. 295248


Comments

Everything is great.

Tom G - 10/18/2017

29543

- L44643
by:

They worked just the way i would expect. 291757



- L44643
by:

Shipped fast! Will do business again! 288054



- L44643
by:

worked perfectly and fast shipping a b onus 270574



- L44643
by:

Great product at a great price for 269386



- L44643
by:

I had ordered a pair of new hubs for a trailer that I owned last Fall. My plans changed over the spring and the new hubs would not fir the trailer that I now wanted to update. One call to customer service solved my problem with a different set of bearings. This was a McPhee less costly fix over sending the hubs back for exchange. Katie M went the extra mile to help me with this problem of my own making. Etrailer will continue to be my go to place for trailer parts and accessories. Well done 269058



- L44643
by:

good bearing and a good price thanks et ailer 267511



- L44643
by:

One year later and the part is still working great. Even after my trailer sat unused through our wet, cold winter. About to order for my other trailer now!! Thanks for a great description so I could make sure I was getting the right part the first time!! 264690



- L44643
by:

Everything was perfect as usual. Repeat customer 256042



- L44643
by:

excellent product great customer service video s are very hepful 255943



- L44643
by:

Bearing cone was as described, and arrived quickly. I am satisfied with the service I received from etrailer. 254022



- L44643
by:

Well made product with good price! 251751



- L44643
by:

Received bearings and grease seals quickly, excellent pricing, will never look any place but etrailer.com for such parts. Keep up the good work. 227787


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  • What Parts Are Needed To Add Brakes To A 1997 Coleman Destiny Pop-Up Camper
  • To add electric brakes to the Coleman Destiny Bayport pop-up camper, you will need a few pieces of information. You will will need to know the weight capacity of the axle, bolt pattern of the wheels, and whether or not it has brake flanges already and their bolt pattern. If no brake flanges then you will have to either replace the axle with one that does or you can purchase brake flanges like Item # 4-34 and have a qualified welder weld them to the axle. After sorting out what...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal # 501544 That Matches Seal # 34823
  • Since the measurements of your existing seal are identical to # 34823 then it will work on your trailer. It should also be a 1/4 inch thick. If both your bearings are # L44643 then you can get the entire Bearing Kit # BK1-100.
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  • Replacement Brakes and Bearings for 1993 Mastercraft Boat Trailer
  • Before you choose brakes or bearings you should verify what's currently on your trailer. If it is a 3,500 pound axle part # AKEBRK-35-SA will likely fit if the trailer has electric drum brakes. Both sides are included and labeled. They're also self-adjusting so you only need to set the adjustment when you first install them and then leave them alone. You can measure the inner diameter of your drums to find if this fit or not. One of two bearing kits is likely what you need. You should...
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  • Determining Bearing Size for Trailer that Uses Same Inner and Outer Race
  • Having the same inner and outer races may indicate that the inner and outer bearings on your trailer are also the same, but it is not a guarantee. This is because some races are designed to fit multiple bearing sizes, as the race will go on the outside of the bearing. Different bearing numbers may have the same outer diameter, meaning they may be compatible with the same race, but have a different inner diameter, which is the important measurement when finding the correct bearing for your...
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  • Finding Replacement Hubs for 1998 Triton XT Snowmobile Trailer
  • In order to choose the correct replacement hubs for your 1998 Triton XT Trailer, you will first want to pull the existing hubs on the trailer to check for the bearing numbers. These should be stamped onto the bearings themselves. If you cannot locate the numbers, you can also take a few measurements along the trailer spindle where the bearings will sit. I have attached an image that points out where these measurements should be taken. I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157,...
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  • Determining Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set
  • Based on your spindle measurement where the bearings ride it sounds like you have # L44649 for the bearings which means the correct Bearing Buddy seal set is part # BB60005. Although, with those bearings you should have a BTR spindle and the location where the seal rides should be 1.50 inches not 1.25 inches. If the seal location is 1.25 inches then it sounds like you have a BT8 spindle in which case you have # L44643 for the bearings which measure 0.99 inches and you need part # BB60001...
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  • Bearing Kit to Replace Timken 07100 Bearings on a Boat Trailer
  • Your Timken 07100 bearings have the same dimensions as bearing # L44643. They both have a 1 inch inner diameter and fit a BT8 spindle. The correct bearing kit is part # BK1-100. The Bearing Buddy protector to fit is part # BB1980A-SS in stainless steel or # BB1980A in chrome.
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  • Replacement 7-Inch Hub/Drum for 1993 Coleman Cape Cod Pop-Up Tent Trailer
  • My research indicates that the Coleman part 4716A1071 refers to a Dexter 7 x 2-inch hub/drum with a 5-lug pattern. We have several options in this size hub/drum that are displayed on the linked page; all have the 5-on-4-1/2 bolt pattern and all are rated for 2K axles. We have hubs for both standard spindles and also for EZ-Lube spindles. All you need to do to select the correct replacement hub/drum is confirm which bearing is used in yours. It should be either # L44643 or # L44649 since...
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  • How to Determine if Trailer Can Switch to 5-Lug Hubs
  • To do this you would need to switch your hubs from the current ones that have a 4-bolt pattern to ones with a 5-bolt pattern. This may be possible but you need to know the weight rating of your axle, and also what bearings the current hub has. You will need to take apart the current hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you need to use a digital caliper...
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  • Replacement for Dexter 8-91A Hub
  • I did some research and there is no direct replacement for your hub due to how old it is. So in order to find the correct replacement, you will need to know the bearing numbers of your current hub because the information you gave is irrelevant. If you are unable to find them, you would need to use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where you need to measure. There...
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  • Replacement Hub and Easy Lubrication Kit for 2,000 lb Axle
  • Unfortunately there are no oil bath hubs available for your specific application. The only ones that are made fit larger hubs. If you would like a solution that is easier than standard grease application (packing your bearings) then I recommend going with some Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors. These are perfect for solutions where EZ Lube spindles aren't in place as they provide a grease zerk fitting as well as a way to see when you have pumped enough grease into your hub space (see...
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  • How to Identify Compatible Replacement Idler Hub
  • The sure way to match up a replacement 4-on-4 idler hub to your spindle is to note the bearing and seal part numbers from the original hub. On the linked page you'll see all 4-on-4 idler hubs and all of these use one of two bearings for both their inner and outer bearings, either # L44643 or # L44649. We also offer complete axle/idler hub kits in both 60-inch and 72-inch hub face sizes and these complete axle kits like # 20440I-EZ-60 are shown on the linked page. This kit includes the...
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  • How to Select Replacement Trailer Hubs for Old Boat Trailer
  • The key to using alternate hubs on an existing axle's spindles is matching up the set of bearings in the two hubs. A new hub must use the same inner and outer bearing and grease seal as the old hub in order for it to fit properly on the spindles. If you can find a hub that uses the same bearings then you can take advantage of newer and more readily available parts. The photo I linked for you shows the typical appearance of bearing and seal part numbers. If you remove one of your hubs,...
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  • Installing Bearing Buddys on EZ Lube Spindle
  • If you wanted to install a bearing buddy like part # BB1980A-SS on a EZ lube spindle you will first need to remove the zerk fitting. To choose the right bearing kit you will need to remove your hub, remove the seal and get the bearing numbers and seal numbers from what you have right now. I attached a picture that shows bearings, races, and seals where you can see the numbers stamped on them as well as see the dimensions needed for seal replacement. I also attached a video on bearing,...
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  • Bearing Identification for Selecting Replacement 6-Lug Trailer Hub
  • We do have one agricultural hub that uses the inner bearing LM29749, that is the Redline 6-on-6 hub # AH30660FCOMP that you referenced. This hub is rated for use on a 3K axle. The outer bearing in this hub is part # LM67048. We have no hubs that use outer bearing L44640 but we do have hubs that use two other outer bearings with very similar part numbers. I think one digit of your part number might be wrong. Bearing part # L44649 is often used as the outer bearing in a hub rated for...
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Info for this part was:

Photos by:
Theodore B
Expert Research:
Michael L
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Michael H
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Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
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Adam R
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Jeffrey L
Video Edited:
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Updated by:
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