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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Item # L44643
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Our Price: $4.87
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 1.000 Inch I.D. L44643
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 part number L44643 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44643

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 1.000 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44643
  • Race L44610

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.000"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L44610
  • Application: inner/outer bearing for BT8 spindle


L44643 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 - L44643

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (82 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L44643
by:

Put new bearings in some old tow dolly wheels I cut apart to make a fuel dolly cart for our loader . Rolls nicely even full of fuel! Thanks guys! 627958


Comments
Still rolls like the day I built my fuel dolly. 400 plus pounds and pushes around the shop easily
Dan L - 04/13/2020

73138

- L44643
by:

Perfect fit and good quality at a fair price. Great service and fast shipping. Todd I 703671



- L44643
by:

Good price 791543



- L44643
by:

Ordered parts and had them quick. 782736



- L44643
by:

The bearings were as at a great price and were shipped very fast but I cant say enough about the service I got from etrailer. I will save this number and call them first for all my needs and will tell every one That I know about this Co. Great Service 776663



- L44643
by:

Great fit very fast shipping price at a very great cost thank you 714957



- L44643
by:

As advertised! Quick delivery, great pr ice. 693188



- L44643
by:

Great price along with quality of construction. Confident that it will last longer than original. 682816



- L44643
by:

Great product, easy to find, got exactly what I ordered. I will definitely order again. 641266



- L44643
by:

Perfect fit and works great. Thanks. 597677



- L44643
by:

Excellent service! Parts were delivered on time and was an exact fit! 590013



- L44643
by:

Best price . Fast shipping. Great service and communication. I will always shop with Etrailet. Thank you ! 574380



- L44643
by:

Great service! 553308



- L44643
by:

Got my stuff fast And good prices 551787



- L44643
by:

Great product great pricing quick to ship great seller communication would recommend to anyone 548285



- L44643
by:

The bearings were what i needed. Description of parts were correct. 517986



- L44643
by:

Can't beat the delivery!!!! 516261



- L44643
by:

Just what I needed at a great price the only thing that could have been better was the way they were packed. 512344


Comments
I sold that trailer but if I need anything else this is my go to place.
Howard Z - 05/23/2019

55694

- L44643
by:

Excellent Products and Service! 509631



- L44643
by:

very fast shipping, great item, perfect fit, 100% thanks. 484187



- L44643
by:

I have bought them before they work fin e. 483183



- L44643
by:

Went together as per plan and has been working fine ever since. 481272



- L44643
by:

IT WAS VERY DISAPPOINTED UPON RECEIVING MY BEARINGS. IT DID NOT INCLUDE THE RACES, NEVER HEARD OF THIS. 460595



- L44643
by:

Bearings where accurate as ordered. 457623



- L44643
by:

Excellent Price , Service and Delivery!!! I Enjoy the ease of ordering from your company. 455858


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Hub for Old Boat Trailer with 07100 Bearing
    The 07100 bearing number you referenced is an older bearing that has the same dimensions as # L44643. If both the inner and outer bearings on your existing trailer are the 07100/ # L44643, and the hub has a 4 on 4 inch bolt pattern, the correct replacement hub will be the etrailer.com # AKIHUB-440-2-1K. This hub assembly is designed for 2,000 pound axles and will fit wheel sizes of 8 inches to 12 inches. The bearings, races and seal are all included. I have attached a short video...
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  • Bearing Kit to Replace Timken 07100 Bearings on a Boat Trailer
    Your Timken 07100 bearings have the same dimensions as bearing # L44643. They both have a 1 inch inner diameter and fit a BT8 spindle. The correct bearing kit is part # BK1-100. The Bearing Buddy protector to fit is part # BB1980A-SS in stainless steel or # BB1980A in chrome.
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  • What Size of Spindle is Needed for a 3,500-Lb Axle
    I have three spindles that are for a 3,500-lb axle and have the bearing dimensions you have listed. The only difference is the dimension for the grease seal is 1.75 inches, not the 1.795 inches that you have mentioned. Maybe you typed in the seal diameter wrong. The hub number you have mentioned is just a casting number, not a part number. The three spindles I have for a 3,500-lb axle are as follows. Redline Spindle 1.75 Inch Round x 4 inch Stub, part # R20484 Redline EZ Lube Spindle...
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  • What is Difference Between Trailer Bearings L44649 vs L44643
    The bearing part # L44649 has an inner diameter of 1.063 and is typically used in 3,500 lb axle hubs and the # L44643 has an inner diameter of 1 inch and is typically used on 2,000 lb axle hubs. If you can get me more info on your trailer like axle capacity and wheel bolt pattern I can help you pick out the components you are looking for.
    view full answer...
  • How to Install Grease into a Sure Lube Trailer Hub
    The Sure Lube system should be lubed by applying enough grease to push out all of the old dirty grease through the front of the dust cover until all of the grease coming out is clean. You will want to rotate the wheel a few times while doing so. Once all of the grease coming out is clean then you know it is lubed and ready.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub Components For Trailer With 1 Inch Solid Axle
    With the numbers of the seal and bearings you provided, I was unable to find components that would match those you said you have. You said you have bearings that are part # L44643 and your seal is PT 203025. The only race we have that is designed to work with the # L44643 bearing is part # L44610. This race has an outer diameter of 1.980 inches. I recommend using a digital caliper like part # PTW80157 and measure your spindle in the area noted for the race in the attached drawing to...
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit for 2010 Aliner Sport Trailer with 2000 Pound AL-KO Axle
    The bearing kit you will want for your 2010 Aliner Sport with 2000 lb axle is the Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle, L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings, 34823 Seal # BK1-100. This includes the bearings, races, seal and pin.
    view full answer...
  • Installing Bearing Buddys on EZ Lube Spindle
    If you wanted to install a bearing buddy like part # BB1980A-SS on a EZ lube spindle you will first need to remove the zerk fitting. To choose the right bearing kit you will need to remove your hub, remove the seal and get the bearing numbers and seal numbers from what you have right now. I attached a picture that shows bearings, races, and seals where you can see the numbers stamped on them as well as see the dimensions needed for seal replacement. I also attached a video on bearing,...
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Replacement Recommendation for Timken 07100
    The 07100 bearing number you referenced is an Timken bearing that has the same dimensions as # L44643.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing Kit Recommendation For Boat Trailer
    We do offer a kit that replaces the bearings, races and seals for 1 inch BT8 spindles. It is kit # BK1-100. This kit contains 2 # L44643 bearings, 2 # L44610 races, 1 # 34823 seal, and 1 cotter pin. The inside diameter of the seal is 1.249 inches. I was unable to find the cross reference number for a 12124 seal. If you are unsure about the inside diameter of the seal, you can look for the number on the side of the seal you have, or you can use a precision instrument like a dial caliper...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement 7-Inch Hub/Drum for 1993 Coleman Cape Cod Pop-Up Tent Trailer
    My research indicates that the Coleman part 4716A1071 refers to a Dexter 7 x 2-inch hub/drum with a 5-lug pattern. We have several options in this size hub/drum that are displayed on the linked page; all have the 5-on-4-1/2 bolt pattern and all are rated for 2K axles. We have hubs for both standard spindles and also for EZ-Lube spindles. All you need to do to select the correct replacement hub/drum is confirm which bearing is used in yours. It should be either # L44643 or # L44649 since...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Grease Seal 34823 has a Larger Diameter than Seal 12194
    If by taller you mean that the seal has a larger outer diameter then you would not be able to use it. If you mean that it is deeper then it is likely not a problem but you would know if it does not sit flush with the hub once the seal is installed. From what I could find the 12194 seal that you have has an outer diameter 0.004 inches less than seal # 34823. The difference of 0.004 inches is very minimal but you will still need to use caution when installing. I recommend using a piece...
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  • Bearing Kit for Snowmobile Trailer with L44649 Inner and Outer Bearings
    It sounds like the bearing you pulled is actually an L44649 which is the inner and outer for 84 spindles which are straight spindles. These are usually found on lower capacity trailers so it makes sense on a snowmobile trailer. For a bearing kit I recommend # BK1-150 because it comes with both bearings, a seal, cotter pin, and EZ lube spindle washer. You may not need all of the parts but you never know! Since packing bearings on the side of the road would totally suck, why not make it...
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  • Trailer Hub Seals with 1.250 Inner Diameter and 1.975 Outer Diameter.
    You would need seal # 34823 or for a pair use # RG06-010. Each of these seals has a 1.249 inch inner diameter and 1.983 out diameter which is within the margin of error and representative of the measurements that you have provided.
    view full answer...
  • How to Identify What Wheel Bearings and Grease Seals are Needed on Trailer Axles
    Pulling the wheels and hubs off of your 5th wheel trailer is the best option when trying to identify what wheel bearings and seals are installed. On the back of the wheel bearings there usually is printed a part number like # L44643. With these numbers you will be able to identify the correct wheel bearings on your trailer's axle. Using the attached FAQ article, match the bearing numbers and you will be able to find the correct bearing & seal kit for your trailer. In some instances...
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  • Do Bearings Have a Speed Rating
    If you have a standard 3,500 lb axle and the spindle is about an inch in diameter then the correct inner and outer bearings for you are # L44643 which have a 1" inner diameter exactly. This can be found in the kit # BK1-100. If your spindle is smaller than an inch then you probably have a smaller spindle that is not standard (which would make sense on an older trailer). When choosing replacement bearings it is always important to measure the spindle where the bearings ride to the 3rd...
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  • Bearing Grease Recommendation for Packing Utility Trailer Bearings
    For wheel bearing grease I would go with good ol' high temp grease # L11380. It has many other uses other than just wheel bearings. The key with grease is to clean off all of the old grease because some formulas are not compatible with each other. I have included a link that should help with that. The other thing about grease is that its messy. So to make it less messy you could use a bearing packer such as # L70025. And if you went that route then you would need a cartridge of grease...
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  • Replacement Bearings for Bearing Number L44643R
    The R at the end of the part # L44643 is identification that some manufacturers will use. It could mean a number of things such as what plant it was made or something a long those lines. For your purposes # L44643 is the correct replacement. Are both the inner and outer bearings the same size? If they are you'll need # DL21792 for the complete bearing kit. If they're not the same you'll need to measure the spindle using a digital caliper to find the correct parts you need. I've...
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  • Replacement Bearing Option for Trailer Hub with 30205 Bearing
    The bearing that you have on the trailer hub measures just under 1 inch (0.985) and we are not going to have a hub that accepts a bearing with an inner diameter of that size. This is common for the trailer kits like the Haul Master branded trailers. You have 2 options though. First, to obtain the right size replacement parts you would have to go to through the manufacturer since the hubs are not a common size. Second, and the best option, replace the axle so that you will not run...
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  • Spare Parts for Harbor Freight HaulMaster Utility Trailer 90154
    We often hear of weak customer support and limited spare parts availability with "bargain" trailer manufacturers. I found an online copy of the owner's manual for the Harbor Freight Haulmaster utility trailer model 90154 but it includes no information at all about the bearing or seal part numbers it uses. Often these foreign-made trailers use odd bearings that are not commonly available. If you can, pull a hub and find the part numbers on your bearings and seal. Please refer to the linked...
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  • Replacement Bearings for 2,000 Pound Dilly Boat Trailer
    The only ways to be sure that you're putting the correct bearings on your trailer are to either find part numbers on the original bearings, or to use a digital caliper and measure the spindle. I have attached a diagram showing the places on the spindle you will want to measure: the grease seal diameter, inner bearing diameter, and outer bearing diameter. These measurements are very precise, which is why we recommend the digital caliper. There are some instances where bearing and...
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  • When to Replace Bearings and Correct Replacements for 2018 Aliner Ranger Camper
    We recommend that the bearings, races, and seals on a trailer be inspected and repacked every 12 months or 12,000 miles (whichever comes first). The bearings and seals only need to be replaced if you notice any damage such as nicks, dents, metal discoloration, etc. Otherwise they can simply be repacked and installed back onto the hub and spindle. I have attached a great article that details this process that you might find helpful. I spoke with my contact at Dexter and she was unable...
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  • Selecting Replacement Idler Hubs, Wheels and Tires for Sailboat Trailer
    For your trailer that has a 1-inch spindle and which requires hubs with part # L44643 as inner and outer bearings, we do have options shown on the linked page. These include both idler hubs like part # AKIHUB-545-2-1K that you referenced and hub/drums like # AKHD-545-2-EZ-1K. These items and the others shown have the 5-on-4-1/2-inch wheel bolt pattern. You will want to confirm your axle weight rating (on the sticker or plate that is usually attached to the axle beam itself) so that you...
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  • Determining Axle Weight Capacity in Relation to Bolt Patterns, Brake Size and Bearings
    There are commonalities between bearing combinations, bolt patterns and brake sizes for certain axle capacities. Starting at the low end, axles with a 2,000 lb capacity can use a 4 or 5 bolt hub with a brake size of 7 inches x 1-1/4 inches using inner and outer bearings # L44643 or # L44649. Axles with a 3,500 lb capacity can use a 4,5 or 6 bolt hub with a brake size of 10 inches x 2-1/4 inches, with outer bearing # L44649 and inner bearing # L68149. For axles with a capacity of...
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  • Difference Between 30205 and L44643 Bearings
    The 30205 bearing that you referenced has an inner diameter of just under 1 inch (0.985 to be exact). We do not have this particular bearing or a hub that uses this size bearing available. The # L44643 bearing that you also mentioned has an inner diameter of exactly 1 inch and is typically the inner and outer bearing for the BT8 spindle. Even though the inner diameter between the two bearings are very similar, the difference would still cause problems in terms of fitting the spindle...
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  • Possible Solution for Replacing Trailer Bearing L44543
    That's not a number we are familiar with. What's the inner diameter of the bearing? If it's 1 inch most likely you have a L44643 and the 6 just happens to look like a 5.
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  • Replacement Bearings And Seals For Single Axle Trailer
    The best way to find replacement bearings and seals for your axle is to find the numbers on the bearings and seals you removed from your axle. I have attached a photo that shows where you can typically find the numbers. The diameter of the axle at 25 mm would be .9842 inches. I am unable to find a bearing with that size inside diameter. The bearing kit we offer for a 1 inch axle is part # BK1-100. This has an inner bearing(L44643, inside diameter of 1.00 inches), outer bearing(L44643),...
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  • Recommended Bearing Replacement For Boat Trailer
    I think the bearing you are looking for is part # L44643. This bearing has a 1 inch inside diameter. The number 6 may look like a 0. To be absolutely sure you will need to use a digital caliper like part # PTW80157 to measure the spindle. I have attached a drawing that shows where to measure on the spindle. As far as the seal, you can use the caliper to measure the inside diameter of the hub bore to make sure you get the correct replacement. The seal we offer that can be used...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W

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