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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643
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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Part Number: L44643
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$4.92
Retail:$6.88
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 1.000 Inch I.D. L44643
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 part number L44643 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (141)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44643

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 1.000 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing L44643
  • etrailer
  • Race L44610

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.000"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L44610
  • Application: inner/outer bearing for BT8 spindle


L44643 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Feature Review Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44643 - L44643

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (141 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

by:

i ordered 2 of these and unfortunately they were sent with 2 different bearings instead of just two L44643 there was a 44649 if i remember the number correct.
called etrailer and was helped by Ashley. she was great! and got me the correct bearings in 2 days.



by:

The bearings were the wrong ones.

Gwendolyn Y. profile picture
Etrailer Expert

Gwendolyn Y.

10/28/2024

Hey Bart. Would you be able to let me know what bearing you received?



by:

Put new bearings in some old tow dolly wheels I cut apart to make a fuel dolly cart for our loader . Rolls nicely even full of fuel!

Thanks guys!

Dan L. profile picture

Dan L.

4/13/2020

Still rolls like the day I built my fuel dolly. 400 plus pounds and pushes around the shop easily



by:

The bearings look great and are just what we needed to get our engine hoist rolling along again. Thanks for excellent help ordering and for the fast shipping.



by:

We run a large facility with tons of machines. We use lots of bearings and races. The quality of the items from etrailer has reduced our replacement labor and time saving. The price of parts and the quality of the parts at etrailer is the best.

Thank you, guys, for all you do.



by:

As always great products with great ser vice.



by:

Not quite the size I was looking for. It looks like the Harbor Freight 1" axle trailers have approx. a 3/32" larger diameter for the OD of the outer ring/race. I was able to geary rig the cone bearing to fit and replace the one that was degraded from water infiltration. It fit and seated in an extra 1/16" deeper that the cone bearing I took out.
If anyone knows that specs for the Harbor Freight bearing and will allow me to return/exchange what I have not used.....great. Brad

Patrick B. profile picture
Etrailer Expert

Patrick B.

8/20/2014

Harbor Freight trailers do not typically use any of the commercial standard trailer bearings. When measuring bearings of any type, its necessary to use a precise measure with a set of calipers. Measurements are usually to the thousandth. Fractional ruler measurements simply are not accurate for precision, round object applications like this.



by:

Excellent bearings, races, buddies, and mounted tires on rims. Makes my rebuild of a 1974 trailer new again. Easy website, fast delivery, better price than anywhere including wallyworld. Great.

Tom G. profile picture

Tom G.

10/18/2017

Everything is great.



by:

Bearings and seals in stock, delivered fast and exactly what I needed. Thank You for your great customer service..... ready to transport my boat 1000 miles to Florida....Jim

Jim profile picture

Jim

1/5/2015

everything is fine and working the way it should, Happy New Year



by:

I had ordered a pair of new hubs for a trailer that I owned last Fall. My plans changed over the spring and the new hubs would not fir the trailer that I now wanted to update. One call to customer service solved my problem with a different set of bearings. This was a McPhee less costly fix over sending the hubs back for exchange. Katie M went the extra mile to help me with this problem of my own making. Etrailer will continue to be my go to place for trailer parts and accessories. Well done



by:

It's important to us that we don't have repeat breakdowns. Our plant issues about 363 PM's a week not including WO's or repetitive maintenance tasks. These bearings were not only cheaper but have held up to the brutal wear and tear of our industry.

George G. profile picture

George G.

11/15/2021

To my surprise we are still running on these same bearings. I always thought bearings are bearings but these have held up better than the ones we were getting from the manufacturer of our machines. Our machines are large industrial machines not normally seen in the average workplace.



by:

Good quality for utility trailer. I replaced both inner and outer bea rings and inner races. I used the bearing buddy seal kit. Everything fit well. The bearing buddy seal kit did move the hub outboard slightly which required modification to cotter pin install.



by:

Excellent bearings at a great price. etrailer always gives great service and has what you need. Thanks.

John profile picture

John

8/12/2016

Bearing-races-and seals are all great quality. No problems.

John profile picture

John

8/12/2016

Bearing-races-and seals are all great quality. No problems.



by:

Ordered several bearings and seals for a motorcycle tag along trailer. Thanks to etrailer's quick shipping I can get them installed in plenty of time before summer trips!



by:

etrailer is awesome. Good pricing and excellent customer service. I received the wrong bearings, called customer service and the correct bearing were expedited that day. Can't ask for more than that.



by:

Purchased to repair/replace Bolens HT-20 tractor front wheel bearings.
Easily packed with grease and installed.
Affordable, relatively quick repair completed in between snow storms.
Only drawback was it was sourced from communist China.
Thank you again eTrailer!



by:

Bearings are not sold with matching races. On the other hand, I couldn’t have found the right bearings for a 1984 trailer without etrailer’s great webpage.



by:

I bought bearings, seals, and races for a rescue kit. Parts appear to be high quality and the price is amazing! The same bearings at the local parts store are eleven dollars apiece. Once again the shipping was fast and very reasonable. Thank you George J. and etrailer.



by:

great price and fit my gravely mowing deck spindles perfectly

Benjamin S. profile picture

Benjamin S.

8/23/2021

still working great, thanks again



by:

I am very satisfied with my products. I have only ordered a few times from e-trailer in the past year, but each time has been an excellent experience.



by:

Thanks Greg for the follow up on my purchaese. Service was great, very friendly folks. More than willing to help me get exactly what I wanted and needed. Went out of his way to make sure my measurements matched his and explained what and why he was doing.only problem I have is my own fault. The bearings that came out of my wood splitter were without races. The bearings I ordered needed races and I didn' order them. Have to get the races for my new bearings. New seal was great. When I get races and install. I will send pictures.



by:

Great product very quick shipping. Well pleased with product

Chico profile picture

Chico

2/12/2014

Great product fast shipping exactly what I needed

PatrickB profile picture

Patrick B.

2/13/2014

Thanks for checking back with us!


by:

Received bearings and grease seals quickly, excellent pricing, will never look any place but etrailer.com for such parts. Keep up the good work.



by:

I was very pleased on the replacement of damage product during shipment. The dispatch was very nice and product was replaced and shipped out the same day Thanks etrailer for the good work



by:

One year later and the part is still working great. Even after my trailer sat unused through our wet, cold winter. About to order for my other trailer now!! Thanks for a great description so I could make sure I was getting the right part the first time!!


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  • Recommended Hubs, Bearings, Wheels and Tires for Small Tandem Axle Trailer
    To select hubs that will fit your trailer spindles you will need to match the bearing numbers or take very precise measurements using a digital caliper like # PTW80157. The bearings in the new hubs must match the old ones (or the spindle dimensions) in order for them to fit properly on your spindles. The linked image shows you the typical appearance and location of bearing part numbers. If these part numbers are not available measure the spindle at points C and D to get the inner and outer...
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  • How to Determine Correct Bearing For 2,000 lb Axle
    You'll need to measure your current bearing to determine the correct replacement for your Lowe's trailer with a 2,000 lb axle as we wouldn't have any way of knowing that off-hand; in order to do this you will need a digital caliper. You can either measure your spindle where the bearing rides, or the bearing itself; for a 2,000 lb axle, the most common are either Bearing # L44649 with a 1.063" inner diameter or Bearing # L44643 with a 1.000" inner diameter. If those aren't right I have...
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  • Selecting Replacement Idler Hubs, Wheels and Tires for Sailboat Trailer
    For your trailer that has a 1-inch spindle and which requires hubs with part # L44643 as inner and outer bearings, we do have options shown on the linked page. These include both idler hubs like part # AKIHUB-545-2-1K that you referenced and hub/drums like # AKHD-545-2-EZ-1K. These items and the others shown have the 5-on-4-1/2-inch wheel bolt pattern. You will want to confirm your axle weight rating (on the sticker or plate that is usually attached to the axle beam itself) so that you...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit For 1" BT8 Trailer Spindle
    It sounds like you need the Bearing Kit for 1" BT8 Spindle # BK1-100. This bearing kit uses Inner and Outer Bearings # L44643 that measure 1" on the inside diameter and a Grease Seal # 34823 with inner diameter of 1.249". These are the closest components we have to your spindle measurements.
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  • Identifying Nut Used For Hub Installation On Boat Trailer With AutoFlex-Knott Axle
    What you have there is a Knott axle with Knott hubs. The bearings in these hubs are sealed so you won't be able to grease your bearings. It is also secured with a one time use flange nut so if you remove it you will have to replace it with a new one to reinstall your hub assembly. If you need to replace the sealed bearings or removed that flange nut you will have to get the replacement parts from the manufacturer. If you want to replace the hubs with a traditional hub assembly you would...
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  • Can The Capacity Of An Axle Be Determined By Looking At The Hubs?
    Though it is sometimes possible to identify an axle's capacity based of the hub, it is not always 100% accurate. Due to this, I tell people to not rely on just this alone. As a quick example, if you look at the Dexter Hub # 8-259-50BTUC1 and # 8-259-50UC1-EZ, they will both use the exact same 8-259 hub. However, the # 8-259-50BTUC1 will use the # L44643 inner and outer bearing and is rated for use on a 2,000 pound axle. The # 8-259-50UC1-EZ will use the # L44649 inner and outer bearing...
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  • Hubs for 2,500 Pound Axle with Straight 1 Inch Spindle
    The Timbren Idler Hub Assembly # TA88545-2 referenced in your question is designed for 2,500 pound axles and it uses the # L44649 inner and outer bearing. This particular bearing features an inner diameter of 1.063 inches, so I highly recommend verifying the measurements you took on your spindle with a digital caliper. If you do have 2,500 pound axles and the spindle is in fact 1 inch exactly, then the correct idler hub assembly will actually be the CE Smith # CE13210. This hub uses the...
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  • How to Find Correct 4 on 4 Replacement Hub
    The correct replacement hub will depend on your bearings. All of our 4 on 4 hubs use a # L44643 inner and outer bearing or # L44649 inner and outer bearing. You will need to look for part numbers on your existing bearings or measure the inner diameter. You could also measure the spindle where the bearings ride. If you have L44643 bearings (1" inner diameter) you can use # AKIHUB-440-2-EZ-1K and for L44649 (1.063" ID) you can use # AKIHUB-440-2-EZ-2K.
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  • Parts Needed For Adding 7-1/4 Brakes To Trailer With 2,000LB Axle
    The Easy Grease Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly for 2K Axles # AKHD-545-2-EZ-1K includes the 1" inner diameter Bearings # L44643. The Assembly # AKHD-545-2-EZ-2K includes the 1-1/16" inner diameter Bearings # L44649. To determine which ones will fit your axle you will need to remove the grease cap and spindle nut to find the number on the outer bearing. If there is not one of the bearing numbers stamped on your bearing you will need to measure the spindle using a Digital Caliper # PTW80157....
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  • Replacement Hub for Old Boat Trailer with 07100 Bearing
    The 07100 bearing number you referenced is an older bearing that has the same dimensions as # L44643. If both the inner and outer bearings on your existing trailer are the 07100/ # L44643, and the hub has a 4 on 4 inch bolt pattern, the correct replacement hub will be the etrailer.com # AKIHUB-440-2-1K. This hub assembly is designed for 2,000 pound axles and will fit wheel sizes of 8 inches to 12 inches. The bearings, races and seal are all included. I have attached a short video review...
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  • Replacement Hub/Drum For Dexter 8-271 With 5 Bolt Mounting Pattern
    We do have the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly for Standard # 8-271-7UC3 or EZ Lube # 8-271-7UC3-EZ axles. These are the 8-271 hubs you have with the 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern. These fit on a 1-1/16" diameter BTR spindle. They include all the bearings, races, seal, lug nuts and grease cap. If you only have a 1" BT8 spindle you will need the Easy Grease Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-545-2-EZ-1K. The easiest way to verify is by removing the hub castle nut and checking the part...
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  • Replacing Hubs On a 4' X 6' Carry On Trailer From 4 on 4" Lugs to 5 on 4-1/2" Lug Pattern 15" Wheels
    Your current axle on your 4' X 6' Carry on Trailer will likely have either a BT8 Spindle # TRU59FR or BTR Spindle # TRU44FR. You can determine the spindle by removing your current hub and inspecting the bearings or by measuring the spindle itself. I have included a image that shows the locations of the bearing numbers and grease seals on your current hub as well as the measurement points for spindle as well. The BT8 Spindle # TRU59FR uses Bearings # L44643 which have an inner diameter...
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  • Replacement Hub w/ a 5 on 4-1/2 Lug Pattern and L44643 Inner and Outer Bearings
    Thanks for the information! If your spindle is 1" diameter that means your old hub uses inner and outer Trailer Hub Bearings item # L44643. This measurement is extremely important because the bearings are sized down to a thousandth of an inch. If you pull your hub you'll see a number stamped onto the side. If yours does not say item # L44643 you don't need the hub I am going to recommend below. For a replacement idler hub with a 5 on 4-1/2 lug pattern, I recommend the Easy Grease Trailer...
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Info for this part was:

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