1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 1.249 Inch I.D.
  6. 1.983 Inch O.D.
Double Lip Grease Seal - ID 1.249" / OD 1.983" - Qty 1

Double Lip Grease Seal - ID 1.249" / OD 1.983" - Qty 1

Item # 34823
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps 34823 - 1.249 Inch I.D. - TruRyde
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Double Lip Grease Seal - ID 1.249" / OD 1.983" - Qty 1 part number 34823 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 34823

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.249 Inch I.D.
  • 1.983 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde


Features:

  • Using a double lip seal is an upgrade from a single lip seal
    • Reinforcing spring behind the lip does a better job of retaining grease inside the hub and keeping out water and road grime
  • Includes 1 double lip grease seal



I.D. O.D.Thickness Use With:
1.249 1.983.25 BT8 Spindles


Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
-
12192TB
470706
AD1836FO
12407



GS-1250DL TruRyde Double Lip Grease Seal





Video of Double Lip Grease Seal - ID 1.249" / OD 1.983" - Qty 1

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Double Lip Grease Seal - ID 1.249" / OD 1.983" - Qty 1 - 34823

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (210 Customer Reviews)


- 34823
by:

I replaced a defective wheel seal on our small boat trailer with this item and it has worked perfectly. Good product, good price and shipped quickly. 665921



- 34823
by:

These are a backup but look like factory, they should work perfect! 595664



- 34823
by:

What can you say about a grease seal that fits and does the job? It works and was very affordable. Even with shipping it was less expensive then the local parts house. 605568



- 34823
by:

I spent half the morning calling around locally and going to parts stores to no avail... searched your site and had them for less money quicker! Product was packaged well and delivered very quickly.... I will be a repeat customer for sure. 551620



- 34823
by:

Very good product, Good customer service and quick delivery 665577



- 34823
by:

Looked everywhere for these seals to complete maintenance on my boat trailer. Should have gone to etrailer to start with, parts arrived sooner than promised and were in perfect condition, surprising as the seals were not packaged individually but loose in bag. Fit and finish as described, job complete! 552469



- 34823
by:

This was sent to me to replace one damaged in shipping when I ordered two hub assemblies. Shipped fast and arrived in good shape. I had to use the dented one because I didn't have time to wait for this replacement. Both seals I used did the job on a 600 mile round trip in the rain no problems. 556277



- 34823
by:

The grease seal and service of etrailer turned out to be great. Quick process and delivery helped me get my utility trailer back in service. Shipping cost was reasonable also. Thanks etrailer. 538398



- 34823
by:

Double lip seal was used on my Jet Ski Trailer hubs. I feel confident they will keep the grease in and the water and dirt out. Easy to install and a perfect fit. 614632



- 34823
by:

I've not yet installed these yet - as the original ones are ok. I bought them at the same time as the chromed covers, which have held up fine so far. Hopefully they last much longer than the plastic ones. 667148



- 34823
by:

Products I purchased are fine and have held up well with limited use (which is my fault for not getting out more often). Put them on old hubs that have seen better days and they fit and have done the job. Hoping to put them more to the test. Also appreciate replacements since the first packaging burst and lost a few items. Your company followed up with replacements and better packaging. 670414



- 34823
by:

My Log splitter Went through a forest fire , and needless to say, melted the old seals. Great easy replacement for my old worn seals. Feels good knowing the bearings will stay clean, dry, and lubed. 582480



- 34823
by:

This grease seal was not an exact match to my old seal but it did the job & is holding the grease internally with the bearing buddy pressured up against it. The seal was exactly as described & a double lip, only difference was the depth of the metal case was shorter than the original that came from the manufacturer. Overall great products from etrailer! 545764



- 34823
by:

Great product, fast shipping.. highly r ecommend 639047



- 34823
by:

Great customer service, woman was polite. and took my order and it came fast , parts are in and I will update after 5 month road trip. Seems like a organized outfit. 698202



- 34823
by:

I have an old ShoreLand'r boat trailer that I am getting ready to give to my son. The trailer bearings had not been repacked in about 20 years. So I took off to remove the hubs, bearings, seals. Everything looked fine inside the hubs but the seals were damaged by me when I removed them from the hub. So I went about trying to find new seals locally at auto parts stores. Nobody had an exact match. So I went to etrailer with the part number for the seals. I immediately found an exact match which had an aftermarket number but was referenced to the original seal number. Cost only $1.26 each and got them in two days. Couldn't ask for better service. 713702



- 34823
by:

Last week I started thinking about my kayak trailer and what repairs needed to be completed before the spring and summer usage. In 2011 I converted a small sailboat trailer to a two place kayak trailer. I ordered bearing kits wheels and tires at that time from e trailer. Every year I pull the wheels and grease the bearings and I install new grease seals. Last year when I was doing my maintenance I found that the bearing races were lightly rusted and pitted because the trailer was buried under a large snowfall. The bearings were fine and I cleaned up the races with steel wool. I decided I would replace everything come winter. I ordered bearing caps to replace my old dented caps hoping that this will keep the bearings dryer. I made a place in the garage to keep the trailer from the weather. I placed a call to you guys and was greeted by a very friendly voice on the other end of the phone. Brandon was able to find my past order saving me time and effort. (My filing system could be better.) He was able to e-mail me copies of my previous orders and shortly there after I placed my order on line for new bearing kits and a few extra seals and well you know the rest. I tell everyone about the excellent service I get from etrailer.com. keep up the good work. 344091


Comments
Its very nice that you would follow up. The products I purchased performed perfectly. I am only able to purchase the double lip seals through you. I cannot find them localy. Thank you for selling a superior product.
Bruce - 02/26/2018

35189

- 34823
by:

It's a seal and it does it job. 804111



- 34823
by:

A perfect fit for my older boat trailer. 794349



- 34823
by:

Good price 791542



- 34823
by:

All the product seems to be pretty good. Only time will tell on the bearings & seals 787153



- 34823
by:

Great service. Part fit perfectly. 782735



- 34823
by:

Perfect fit . Outstanding customer serv ice 776127



- 34823
by:

Great products , great company , they got, me in the water today 732403



- 34823
by:

I ordered several things from Etrailer, all of which were great quality. There was a problem though...I did order online and reversed house number by accident and order didn’t arrive as anticipated. That said, even though shipping was my goof, Etrailer (Natalie and George) contacted the shipper, ran it down, corrected my error, and I got my items the same day. Wow, talk about exceptional customer service. Etrailer gets 5/5 stars from me. Could not ask for better service, and my parts...trailer springs too, were excellent. Thanks!!!! Chuck 726695


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Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement CR 12124 Grease Seal for Trailer Hub
    While I wasn't able to officially cross-reference the CR 12124 seal that you mentioned, based on a few different customers we have had in the past looking to replace this particular number seal, the TruRyde Double Lip Grease Seal # 34823 does appear to be the correct replacement. This double lip seal (which will indeed be an upgrade over your existing single lip) features an inner diameter of 1.249 inches and an outer diameter of 1.983 inches. It is typically used on the BT8 spindle...
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Dimensions 1.375 ID and 1.983 OD
    The grease seal you need is the part # 13194 which has an inner diameter of 1.372 inch and an outer diameter of 1.983 inch.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing, Races and Grease Seal for 1992 Rockwood 2040 Pop-Up Camper
    We have exactly the parts you need, Bearing # L44649, Race # L44610 and Grease Seal # 34823. There is not a kit containing these parts together so you would need to order each individually.
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out a Replacement Grease Seal for a Trailer Hub
    What you will need to do is measure the outer diameter of the spindle that you have where the seal would ride and then measure the diameter of the hub where the seal installs. With those two pieces of info you will be able to pick out the correct grease seal.
    view full answer...
  • Compatible Replacement for a CR12124 Trailer Grease Seal
    The best option we have for you is the Double Lip Grease Seal part # 34823 which measures 1.249" inner diameter x 1.983" outer diameter and is commonly used with the Trailer Wheel Bearing part # L44643. The dimensions are close enough to where I do not think you will have problems. It looks like others have struggled to find this seal as well so I really think this is your best option. I have attached a list of all our grease seals for you as well.
    view full answer...
  • Why Would Seals Leak after Installation of Kodiak XL ProLube Kit
    I spoke to my contact at Kodiak and he informed me that he sees this problem a few times a week and it's always because the trailer is an EZ loader or a Tinker trailer that actually has 1.683 spindles instead of 1.72 and that is why the seals leak. The only real solution I can provide for you would be to go back to your previous setup or look into replacing your spindles or axles.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Fit based on Inner Diameter and Outer Diameter
    When you measure with a caliper, use the inner and outer diametes to help you find the right seal. On TruRyde's Double Lip Grease Seal, # 34823, we give you measurements that are extremely close to what you sent in your question. The very slight variance could be the wear on an old seal and the compression to put the seal in or take it out of the hub. These seals are a very snug fit to prevent grease leak and keep debris out of the bearings, so there really isn't much play. You can...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Double Lip Grease Seal for National Seal 471750
    It looks like the National 471750 grease seal has an outer diameter of 1.983 inches and an inner diameter of 1.25 inches. The replacement grease seal that we offer is part # 34823. This is a double lip grease seal that is best suited for marine applications such as a boat trailer and it fits hubs that use the same bearing and race combination and spindle size that you mentioned. If you also need new grease, I recommend picking up our LubriMatic Marine Trailer grease, # L11404 for a...
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Replacement Seal for Boat Trailer
    The seal number you mentioned does not match anything we carry or any of the cross-references we are aware of. You are going to have to take a couple measurements to determine which seal you'd need. To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper like # PTW80157 and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct...
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure to Find Replacement Grease Seal Based on Inner and Outer Diameters
    I was not able to find confirmed dimensions for the seal part 16192TC but we do have many grease seals and it is possible to find a replacement based on the dimensions. The seal inner diameter corresponds to the diameter of the spindle; the outer diameter corresponds to the inner bore of the hub assembly where the seal is installed. If you have or can borrow a precision caliper like # 301-17068 you can take these spindle and hub bore measurements. You'll need to measure to the nearest...
    view full answer...
  • Marine Grease Seal Replacement for National 471750
    Based on the number 471750 that you gave the correct replacement grease seal will be the part # 34823. This seal has an inner diameter of 1.25 inch and an outer diameter of 1.983 inch.
    view full answer...
  • Correct Double Lip Grease Seal for 5,200 lb Dexter Axle
    You will want to measure your spindle to make sure (see accompanying photo) but the double lip grease seal that fits Dexter axles that are rated for 5,200 lbs - 7,000 lbs is # GS-2125DL. If you look at the photo you will want to use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 to measure where the letter "B" is on the spindle; that will be the inner diameter of the seal. If yours measures 2.125 inches then # GS-2125DL will be the correct seal for you. I've added a link to a video review of...
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Replacement Trailer Hub Seal
    The seal number you gave me does not cross reference with any of the seals we offer. You will need to measure the diameter of your spindle where the seal rides and the inner diameter of where the seal installs in your hub to pick out the correct replacement.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal # 501544 That Matches Seal # 34823
    Since the measurements of your existing seal are identical to # 34823 then it will work on your trailer. It should also be a 1/4 inch thick. If both your bearings are # L44643 then you can get the entire Bearing Kit # BK1-100.
    view full answer...
  • Possible Grease Seal Recommendation for Seal with 31 mm ID and 52 mm OD
    I converted your mm seal dimensions to inch and found that your seal measures 1.22 inches inner diameter and 2.04 for outer diameter. The closest seal we have to that is the part # 34823 which has an inner diameter of 1.249 inches and an outer diameter of 1.983 inches. I would recommend you measure your seal again with a digital caliper on the inch setting to see if this is a match. For a caliper you would need the part # PTW80157.
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Seal for TCM 12194TC
    I did some research and found that the 12194TC seal you said you have measures 1.250 inside diameter, and 1.979 outside diameter. The seal I recommend is part # 34823. The dimensions listed for this seal are 1.249 inside diameter and 1.983 outside diameter.
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  • Trailer Hub Seal Recommendation to Replace Chicago Rawhide Seal 12407
    For your Chicago Rawhide seal part number 12407 the grease seal part # 34823 is an exact replacement. This would would well for you. This is a double lip seal too.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal Options for National Seal 203025
    According to my research, the National Seal 203025 has a 1.218" inner diameter and a 1.983" outer diameter. Unfortunately, we do not have a grease seal that matches these dimensions exactly. The closest grease seal we have to the above dimensions is part # 34823 which has a 1.249" inner diameter and a 1.983" outer diameter. This seal is the same as the Transcom 12192TB and would be the seal I recommend for you. This seal has a double lip which will do a better job of keeping water out...
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  • Hub Seal Recommendation for Part Number # 12192TC
    This seal, # 34823, is a compatible cross-reference for the Transcom 12192. Its inner diameter is 1.249 inches and is outer diameter is 1.983 inches. You can measure your hub's inner bore to determine if this seal's outer diameter matches. It should, but typically the letter we see at the end of that part number is TB.
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  • Grease Seal Installation on 1985 Coleman Versa Trailer
    It should not matter whether the grease seal is fitted flush or slightly below the point of being flush to your hub's inner surface. What matters is that it does its job - retaining your bearing grease inside your hubs. Its always a good idea to keep an eye on your hubs anyway, so you can periodically check for any leaking grease. As long as you have no issues with that you do not need to be concerned about the different positions of the two seals.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace 20305 on Hub
    Since the inner diameter of a grease seal is rubber it can be hard to get an exact figure. It sounds like the # 34823 would be close enough as a fit as it has an outer diameter of 1.983 and an inner diameter of 1.249 but your best option would be to measure the outer diameter of the spindle where the seal rides to get the exact figure.
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  • Possible Replacement Grease Seal Recommendation for National 203025
    It sounds like the # 34823 would be close enough as a fit as it has an outer diameter of 1.983 and an inner diameter of 1.249 but your best option would be to measure the outer diameter of the spindle where the seal rides to get the exact figure.
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  • Does Grease Seal # 34823 Feature a Garter Spring
    There is indeed a garter spring in the # 34823 Double-Lip Grease Seal. If you view the product description video, you can briefly see the spring. I'd captured a frame from the video where you can see the spring a bit better.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Hub with L44643 Bearings
    You have a BT8 spindle and the seal that we carry for that spindle and bearing combination is part # 34823. This seal is 1/4 inch thick. We also sell this seal as a set of 2 with part # RG06-010. I have not heard of a seal this small with a thickness of .4 inches. This seal will work just fine for your setup. The thickness of the seal on these hubs is not as important as long as you can tap it into the hub so it is flush with the backside of the hub bore.
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  • How to Measure to Find a Replacement Grease Seal to Replace Victor 47376
    According to my research Victor 47376 grease seal has an inner diameter of 1.218 inches and an outer diameter of 1.983-inches. The seal we offer nearest to those dimensions is part # 34823 as a single seal or part # RG06-010. These have matching outer diameters but slightly larger inner diameters at 1.249-inches. These are the closest to your Victor seal.
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  • How to Determine the Correct Size Grease Seal for a Forest River Shamrock Trailer
    The best way to determine what seal you will need for your trailer is to find the bearing numbers stamped onto the back side of the bearings. There will be an inner and outer bearing. With that information, I can pin point the correct seal you will need. You can also measure the inner diameter of the seal and the outer diameter. The measurements have to be as accurate as possible so I recommend using dial calipers to measure it. For seal # 34823 that you have referenced, the inner diameter...
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  • How To Find The Right Hub Components For Trailer
    We have several hub and axle components and we may have just what you are looking for. The easiest way to find the right parts you need is to take the hub off your trailer and look at the bearings and race. If you cannot find the numbers on the parts you will need to take some measurements on your spindle to make sure. I recommend using a digital caliper like part # PTW80157. You will want to measure the spindle in the locations where the bearing ride the spindle and also measure the...
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  • Replacement Race and Grease Seal for Trailer Bearing # L44649
    If you are talking about the race or cup as it is sometimes called, you would use # L44610. But if you are talking about the seal then it will either be a 10-19, # RG06-050, with inner diameter of 1.719 inches and outer diameter of 2.565 inches; or it will be a 10-60 seal, # RG06-020, with 1.500 inch inner diameter and 1.987 inch outer diameter. We also have various spindle washers if that is what you mean. I have linked them for you.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Rockwell American 2K Spindle
    For a 2,000 lb axle, the Double Lip Grease Seal - ID 1.249" / OD 1.983" - Qty 1 # 34823 is the most standard size grease seal. You may want to use a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to confirm these dimensions match your hub and spindle. I've attached a video to assist.
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  • Does Grease Seal Thickness Matter When Picking Out Replacement
    Thickness won't really matter that much. The seal # 34823 is .25 inch thick but if the inside and outside diameters match what you have it will work just fine.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W

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