1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 2.250 Inch I.D.
  6. 3.376 Inch O.D.
Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Item # RG06-070
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Our Price: $6.57
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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RG06-070 - 3.376 Inch O.D. TruRyde Seals
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) part number RG06-070 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-070

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.250 Inch I.D.
  • 3.376 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde


Trailer Hub Grease Seals

  • Two 10-36 Seals per Package
  • Double Lip Seal
    • For single lip seal see # 42385

I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
2.250 3.376 E-Z Lube End Units

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
010-036-00
22333TBN
452920/482920
AD3135E1/AD3135EO
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RG06-070 Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)





Video of Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) - RG06-070

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (357 Customer Reviews)


- RG06-070
by:

Excellent quality. Prompt delivery. 737245



- RG06-070
by:

So far working well, no issues 732954



- RG06-070
by:

Package was delivered in record time. Everything fit, no issues with missing parts. Was complete with a simple installation. Took approximately 1 1/2 per wheel including repacking of wheel bearings. 682788



- RG06-070
by:

They're exactly the replacements I was needing. I always carry parts for just an emergency like if a bearing went bad on the camper while traveling. I recently swapped out all four drums, brake assemblies and bearings on my camper. The seals were the wrong ones that came with the drums. I had four that were correct. These replaced the ones that I had. They are inexpensive. So why not purchase all four. 382509


Comments
I have swapped out the axles for bigger ones and passed my spare seals, bearings and races on to someone else that has them. They are great to have as spares in case of trouble while traveling. This reminds me to order some for my new axles. etrailer is always my first choice to shop and purchase. Extremely happy with their Inventory, service and delivery.
Robert N - 05/19/2018

38674

- RG06-070
by:

Thanks to Nicole she found the same item that I ordered 3 years ago. This product works great, and was an exact replacement for my OEM seals. 570398



- RG06-070
by:

Exact replacement seals so that I can repack my wheel bearings on the trailer. Great price and quality is good which is want I want in the wheel bearings and seals I use. 225580


Comments
Have not experienced any issues at all with the product
ERP - 09/14/2016

20963

- RG06-070
by:

I have ordered from etrailer.com on other occasions and for the most part what keeps me coming back in the pricing. They usually have the lowest price for the same original equipment. Be careful if you haven't heard that your product has shipped in a reasonable amount of time, even if their website says they have the item in stock. They will hold your order until they have all the parts to ship. I had not seen a shipped email for almost a week and when I called they said they would have it to ship in mid august, about a month after I ordered. I was told they had a similar item in stock ready to ship now if I wanted to change my order. I appreciated that and did change my order, however, I needed to know that information at the time they knew it because I had to change my vacation plans because I could not get the parts in time to take our 5th wheel. Overall this is a good place to order parts from and I will keep doing so. 414911



- RG06-070
by:

I would appreciate if you teach your order pickers how to read orders, if it says a set that means a set of two and when someone orders two sets that means four seals not just two. Lucky for me the person was understanding and can wait til the other seals get here. 565770



- RG06-070
by:

Bearings were received in a timely way, installed and have1500 miles on them with no problems. I use etrailer for all my trailer needs and have always gotten good product and good service. 652424



- RG06-070
by:

I used these bearing race seals (in different sizes of course) on 3 different trailers (a double axle Featherlight 23' gooseneck horse, single axle 19' pop-up Chalet A frame camper, and a Fox double axle 20' flatbed hay hauler when I serviced the bearings last winter. The hay hauler had heavy use with many 5 ton loads of hay and several thousand miles on the road. The camper traveled 6 thousand miles, and the horse trailer saw moderate use. I had no leaks or seal failures. The seals performed flawlessly. I will buy them again on my next service. etrailer sells them at a great price, and are they are very trustworthy! 456578


Comments
Still great product reliability after one year of heavy use. Just returned from a 2500 mile trip to North Dakota and back with my horse trailer acting as a moving van. No bearing issues arose through very bad weather involving snow, ice, and heavy rain. Nothing but good to say about these products. Total reliability.
Michael D - 12/02/2018

46308

- RG06-070
by:

I bought these as spares, because I'll be doing the bearing maintenance by hand every 12,000 miles and not utilizing the EZ Lube system that came with the trailer. The dam EZ Lube system is the reason I had to change the brake pads out.... using a grease gun, grease blew by the seals and saturated the pads with grease... I think the EZ Lube system would be great for a trailer that didn't have drum brakes.. .. .. Besides, it'll give me an opportunity to look at the condition of the bearings, race and brake pads, as well as adjust the brakes. 453771



- RG06-070
by:

As usual with etrailer ordered it got it quick and it was perfect ! Thanks folks. 565112



- RG06-070
by:

Delivery was fast and Vince C was extremely helpful getting the order together. I'm up here in Canada and E-Trailer is my "go To" place for Car Hauler parts for sure! 192288


Comments
Etrailer is certainly my Go To place for trailer parts and accessories, even if I live in Canada. In the long run its so beneficial just having the knowledge and expertise at Etrailer to help me ensure I am purchasing the right parts and that I have everything essential for a repair. As noted previously, after having to change wheel bearings & seals on the side of an interstate, we carry a complete 6 bolt hub assembly with us now.
Bob B - 05/20/2016

17794

- RG06-070
by:

Thanks George Sadly don't have pics ability, but, The seals and rim clamps for my ancient dayton axled trailer fit perfectly. Rim clamps relieved the inch and a half wobble from the left side that had looked like an obvious bearing failure. Was really impressed with the rim clamps having stamped "wheel/ rim" , Silly me, being and old tire man, would have thought the rim was the wheel. My old school mentality specially with an old dayton hub/wheel...still, got her done. Course a bonnet is hood is a.... engine cover, is an glove compartment and a Lorry is a Truck in other parts of the world...! Thanks for the great service. I cheated as an old tire/parts/mechanic/guy by actually measuring the seals after visiting Napa, Auto Zone, and getting the ....duhhh....blanks that I expected. From now on it's You All, when I need trailer parts...! 568831



- RG06-070
by:

good to have extras around if needed 774618



- RG06-070
by:

Messed up a seal doing a 4 wheel replacement job. My fault, now I have a spare. 773169



- RG06-070
by:

Their staff was very helpful over the phone to ensure I had the right axle seals and the covers. Everything ordered arrived when they predicted and in perfect condition. i was extremely happy with my shopping experience with etrailer. 765964



- RG06-070
by:

Ordered several of these seals for our trailers. Very good quality & fit. No problems after a year so far. 763434



- RG06-070
by:

Seals worked fine fit good and seem to be working good so far 746661



- RG06-070
by:

Everything was just what I needed. Super fast shipping great service. I would use them again anytime. 746805



- RG06-070
by:

Nice. Just as advertised. 746271



- RG06-070
by:

My order was filled promptly and shipped the same day. After I ordered online, I realized I forgot to order an item, so they put the order on hold while I added to it. When I received it, I got exactly what I ordered. Customer service is great! 746158



- RG06-070
by:

Always get the extra seals in case you mess one up by putting it in and realize bearing is on bench or you just plain mess one up or need it on the road they are double lip seal with spring also orielly tried to sell me single lip seal would have grease in your brakes with single lip these are just what I needed 738514



- RG06-070
by:

Everything worked perfectly. Shipping was fast and I had no problems installing. Thanks e-trailer 737972



- RG06-070
by:

Just starting my new business I knew I would have to do things myself to save money. Etrailer Made it simple with one phone call. Lori was knowledgeable and easy to talk to and I saved hundreds ordering from them. My local trailer sales and service was triple the price. Thanks etrailer. 737904


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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Joe V
Expert Research:
Mike L
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Sarah L
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Robert G
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Michael H
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Jameson C
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Adam R
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Video Edited:
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Updated by:
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Test Fit:
Robert C

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