Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Item # RG06-070

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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RG06-070 - 3.376 Inch O.D. TruRyde Seals
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  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.250 Inch I.D.
  • TruRyde
  • 3.376 Inch O.D.
Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) part number RG06-070 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-070


Trailer Hub Grease Seals

  • Two 10-36 Seals per Package
  • Double Lip Seal
    • For single lip seal see # 42385

I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
2.250 3.376 E-Z Lube End Units

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
010-036-00
22333TBN
452920/482920
AD3135E1/AD3135EO
-



RG06-070 Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 20LK

2014 - 2014 Jayco White Hawk Ultra Lite Travel Trailer 20MRB

2019 - 2019 Forest River Salem FSX TT Toy Hauler 210RT

2019 - 2019 Forest River Wildwood FSX TT Toy Hauler 210RT

2012 - 2012 Cruiser RV Viewfinder Signature Travel Trailer 21B

2017 - 2017 Coachmen Viking Travel Trailer 21BH

2014 - 2014 Jayco White Hawk Ultra Lite Travel Trailer 21FBS

2017 - 2017 Coachmen Viking Travel Trailer 21FQ

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 21FSLE

2017 - 2017 Coachmen Viking Travel Trailer 21RD

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 21SALE

2007 - 2007 Coachmen Adrenaline TT Toy Hauler 228FB

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 22LK

2012 - 2012 Cruiser RV Viewfinder Signature Travel Trailer 22RBDS

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 22SK

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 233B

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 23FB

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 23SB

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 242B

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 24BD

2015 - 2017 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 24FBW

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 24LK

2012 - 2012 Cruiser RV Viewfinder Signature Travel Trailer 24SD

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 24SK

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 25FB

2014 - 2016 Forest River Sandpiper Select Fifth Wheel 25RLS

2014 - 2016 Forest River Sierra Select Fifth Wheel 25RLS

2006 - 2006 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS DLX Fifth Wheel 26.5RL

2005 - 2005 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS Fifth Wheel 26.5RL

2006 - 2008 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS Fifth Wheel 26.5RLBG

See All Vehicle Fits



Video of Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) - RG06-070

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (325 Customer Reviews)


- RG06-070
by:

Bearings were received in a timely way, installed and have1500 miles on them with no problems. I use etrailer for all my trailer needs and have always gotten good product and good service. 652424



- RG06-070
by:

I used these bearing race seals (in different sizes of course) on 3 different trailers (a double axle Featherlight 23' gooseneck horse, single axle 19' pop-up Chalet A frame camper, and a Fox double axle 20' flatbed hay hauler when I serviced the bearings last winter. The hay hauler had heavy use with many 5 ton loads of hay and several thousand miles on the road. The camper traveled 6 thousand miles, and the horse trailer saw moderate use. I had no leaks or seal failures. The seals performed flawlessly. I will buy them again on my next service. etrailer sells them at a great price, and are they are very trustworthy! 456578


Comments

Still great product reliability after one year of heavy use. Just returned from a 2500 mile trip to North Dakota and back with my horse trailer acting as a moving van. No bearing issues arose through very bad weather involving snow, ice, and heavy rain. Nothing but good to say about these products. Total reliability.

Michael D - 12/02/2018

46308

- RG06-070
by:

I have ordered from etrailer.com on other occasions and for the most part what keeps me coming back in the pricing. They usually have the lowest price for the same original equipment. Be careful if you haven't heard that your product has shipped in a reasonable amount of time, even if their website says they have the item in stock. They will hold your order until they have all the parts to ship. I had not seen a shipped email for almost a week and when I called they said they would have it to ship in mid august, about a month after I ordered. I was told they had a similar item in stock ready to ship now if I wanted to change my order. I appreciated that and did change my order, however, I needed to know that information at the time they knew it because I had to change my vacation plans because I could not get the parts in time to take our 5th wheel. Overall this is a good place to order parts from and I will keep doing so. 414911



- RG06-070
by:

Perfect service all the way around peri od. 574678



- RG06-070
by:

Thanks to Nicole she found the same item that I ordered 3 years ago. This product works great, and was an exact replacement for my OEM seals. 570398



- RG06-070
by:

Delivery was fast and Vince C was extremely helpful getting the order together. I'm up here in Canada and E-Trailer is my "go To" place for Car Hauler parts for sure! 192288


Comments

Etrailer is certainly my Go To place for trailer parts and accessories, even if I live in Canada. In the long run its so beneficial just having the knowledge and expertise at Etrailer to help me ensure I am purchasing the right parts and that I have everything essential for a repair. As noted previously, after having to change wheel bearings & seals on the side of an interstate, we carry a complete 6 bolt hub assembly with us now.

Bob B - 05/20/2016

17794

- RG06-070
by:

As usual with etrailer ordered it got it quick and it was perfect ! Thanks folks. 565112



- RG06-070
by:

Thanks George Sadly don't have pics ability, but, The seals and rim clamps for my ancient dayton axled trailer fit perfectly. Rim clamps relieved the inch and a half wobble from the left side that had looked like an obvious bearing failure. Was really impressed with the rim clamps having stamped "wheel/ rim" , Silly me, being and old tire man, would have thought the rim was the wheel. My old school mentality specially with an old dayton hub/wheel...still, got her done. Course a bonnet is hood is a.... engine cover, is an glove compartment and a Lorry is a Truck in other parts of the world...! Thanks for the great service. I cheated as an old tire/parts/mechanic/guy by actually measuring the seals after visiting Napa, Auto Zone, and getting the ....duhhh....blanks that I expected. From now on it's You All, when I need trailer parts...! 568831



- RG06-070
by:

I bought these as spares, because I'll be doing the bearing maintenance by hand every 12,000 miles and not utilizing the EZ Lube system that came with the trailer. The dam EZ Lube system is the reason I had to change the brake pads out.... using a grease gun, grease blew by the seals and saturated the pads with grease... I think the EZ Lube system would be great for a trailer that didn't have drum brakes.. .. .. Besides, it'll give me an opportunity to look at the condition of the bearings, race and brake pads, as well as adjust the brakes. 453771



- RG06-070
by:

Exact replacement seals so that I can repack my wheel bearings on the trailer. Great price and quality is good which is want I want in the wheel bearings and seals I use. 225580


Comments

Have not experienced any issues at all with the product

ERP - 09/14/2016

20963

- RG06-070
by:

They're exactly the replacements I was needing. I always carry parts for just an emergency like if a bearing went bad on the camper while traveling. I recently swapped out all four drums, brake assemblies and bearings on my camper. The seals were the wrong ones that came with the drums. I had four that were correct. These replaced the ones that I had. They are inexpensive. So why not purchase all four. 382509


Comments

I have swapped out the axles for bigger ones and passed my spare seals, bearings and races on to someone else that has them. They are great to have as spares in case of trouble while traveling. This reminds me to order some for my new axles. etrailer is always my first choice to shop and purchase. Extremely happy with their Inventory, service and delivery.

Robert N - 05/19/2018

38674

- RG06-070
by:

I would appreciate if you teach your order pickers how to read orders, if it says a set that means a set of two and when someone orders two sets that means four seals not just two. Lucky for me the person was understanding and can wait til the other seals get here. 565770



- RG06-070
by:

These seals fit perfectly,thank you etrailer for having the right parts at the right price. I would highly recommend etrailer to anyone who needs good parts at a good price. 83279


Comments

These seals are still doing their jobk : Thanks etrailer for supplying us with quality products !

Rhonda H - 06/13/2014

4867

- RG06-070
by:

Order arrived very quickly. Placed on Friday, arrived on Tuesday from Mo to Pa. Items were packed well and arrived in good condition. Upon initial inspection all items appear of good quality. Ordered tires, brakes with backing plates, hubs ,seals and grease. Haven't installed any items yet, but I am sure I will have no issues. Free shipping is a plus. Additionally unlike other free shipping offers that are out on the back burner for a week, order was processed and shipped promptly. I have recommended etrailer to friends and would highly recommend them to anyone. 373543



- RG06-070
by:

Good Quality and came in ok , fit like they should , would buy again Thanks 669445



- RG06-070
by:

Great parts i ordered it twice. By mistake, they called and resolved a problem i didn't know i had. Got my trailer up and running quickly. Thanks . 668096



- RG06-070
by:

Looks good. Installing sokn 664956



- RG06-070
by:

Exactly what I needed and quick. 659796



- RG06-070
by:

Had trouble locating the exact seal number from a trailer. A friend mentioned Etrailer. Found it right away from search. Loved the cross reference option when looking up seal numbers & was able to find the same part just different number. Worked for me 659321



- RG06-070
by:

Just installed both axle brakes on my 35 ft fifth wheel trailer and everything went smooth except for a couple of bumps. When I ordered them I ordered the self adjusting ones and was shipped 2 self adjusting ones and two manual adjusting ones. I called and customer service was very professional and shipped out the right ones right away. The only other problem was one of the brake assemblies came apart in shipping but all parts were in the box and was easily put back together. All in all a very easy project. 658828



- RG06-070
by:

Seals work as designed. Good fit and no leaks. 656496



- RG06-070
by:

All was easy to install and everything worked as it should've. Thanks for making things pain free. 656617



- RG06-070
by:

cheap price, good quality and fast ship ping. 654797



- RG06-070
by:

Product was delivered extremely fast and was a great quality. 653238



- RG06-070
by:

Fast shipping 644949



- RG06-070
by:

I needed replacement seals for 4 ancient trailer hubs and these nailed it. I also couldn’t believe the price for pairs. 642447



- RG06-070
by:

Great customer service and great shipping time. Selection and price is outstanding 639746



- RG06-070
by:

Outstanding OEM parts. 639237



- RG06-070
by:

Exact replacement of my seals. Prompt delivery. 637247



- RG06-070
by:

Installed on my airstream worked fine I have had no problems seems to be a good product etrailer is the place to go for parts 634526



- RG06-070
by:

These are nice sturdy metal double seals for a stupid price! I love this company - have had nothing but superior customer care, are accurately knowledgeable, and the quality of products has always been better than I expected. Thank you ETrailer.com 633661



- RG06-070
by:

Bearing seals were fine. I did have a problem with one of the 7K brake assemblies where the self adjusting cable eye pulled out of the crimp. I used the old cable off original brake assembly. Gary 628765



- RG06-070
by:

matches original seal, about $50.00 cheaper than NAPA . Installed and ran for over 7,000 miles working fine 628486



- RG06-070
by:

Top of the line product!! 626703



- RG06-070
by:

The first set were damaged in shipping, I think b/c of improper packing. The new ones fit great and were easy to install. The wheel cylinders and new actuator along with new brake hoses made for a really great repair. 621931



- RG06-070
by:

These fit the intended application and work as they should. 619502



- RG06-070
by:

etrailer is our first choice for buying parts. We bought race seal caps for a great price that were shipped immediately . This is not our first purchase and will not be our last. Also, customer aftercare is pretty amazing. 611281



- RG06-070
by:

Every we wanted and expected. Fast delivery, very fast.. 603753



- RG06-070
by:

Good, simple grease seal. Not recommended for oil-bath hubs. 603271



- RG06-070
by:

Ordering the backplate was easy, no problem. Product was delivered as promised and a perfect fit. This is the second time I have ordered from etrailer and I would recommend to anyone to purchase from etrailer. 601954



- RG06-070
by:

Been using these type of wheel bearing seals for several years. Work excellent and sure cost a whole lot less than the ones at an RV store or shop. 601012



- RG06-070
by:

Great price. 599024



- RG06-070
by:

when I need wheel bearing parts I have etrailer in my favorite list. 598184



- RG06-070
by:

Seals are not just stamped to size but outer edges are precision ground to size. 597447



- RG06-070
by:

Great product 596144



- RG06-070
by:

fit perfect 595714



- RG06-070
by:

seals work great 594832



- RG06-070
by:

Quick delivery and worked great 594211



- RG06-070
by:

I purchased these items to have as spares. I bought a brake drum w/bearings ass'y, set of inside and outside bearing/races, and seals. I ordered thinking I was getting the Timken brand but ended up getting bearings/seals from China. Still better than nothing when you are stuck in the desert or on rhe side of the road. 588298



- RG06-070
by:

Good kit brake! kit Easy to install, I like. ?? 584892


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Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation to fit 7,000 lb Dexter Axles
  • For your Dexter 7k axles the Kodiak Kit part # K2HR712D would fit and work well. Your EZ lube grease caps from your current hubs will fit the hub/rotors and for bearings you would need # 25580 and # 14125A and then for the seal you would want the part # RG06-070.
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  • Replacement Self Adjusting Brake Assemblies for Lippert 7k Axles
  • Self adjusting brake assemblies have no downside. They are the preferred brake assembly style as they require no adjustments. The part # AKEBRK-7L-SA is the correct left hand side assembly for your trailer with 7k Lippert axles. For the right hand side you'd then want the part # AKEBRK-7R-SA. For grease seals you then would want the part # RG06-070. For bolts you'd need the part # 38N and for a washer part # 38LW.
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  • Replacement Axle Needed for Lippert 5,200 lbs Axle with Serial Number 045-001684271
  • I do have a solution for you, however when I spoke with my contact at Lippert they said that your axle is rated for 5,200 lbs and the highest rated standard axles that we have are rated for 3,500 lbs. The alternative solution that we have is the Timbren Axle-Less Suspension # ASR5200S01. This system is rated for 5,200 lbs and can be used as a single axle or you can use 2 for a tandem axle trailer. There are a few great things about the Timbren system. It increases ground clearance since...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 2017 Trailer with Dexter 5200 lb Axles
  • For your 2017 trailer with Dexter 5200 lbs axles, there are two possible options for replacement bearing kits. Both kits, the # BK3-300 mentioned in your question and the # BK3-310, include an LM67048 outer bearing and 25580 inner bearing which match the hub and drum assemblies for your Dexter axle. The difference between the two kits is the inner diameter of the included grease seals. The more likely fit for your trailer may be the # BK3-310 which has a smaller seal inner diameter...
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  • Kodiak Disc Brake Kit That Fits 2018 Arctic Fox 295T with 7,000 lb Axles
  • The Kodiak 7k disc brake kit part # K2HR712D that you referenced does fit your 2018 arctic fox 295T that has 7k axles. Sounds like you already have the bearings needed of # 25580 and # 14125A but you will also need a new seal # RG06-070 for each hub. This kit is Dacromet coated as well which means it will fight corrosion. The next big piece of the puzzle will be an actuator. For that the best option is the HydraStar part # HBA16 as it's our most reliable and fastest acting option. For...
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  • Needing Bearing and Seal Replacement for Lippert Axle
  • I found a bearing and seals that will fit your Lippert Axles. According to the manufacturer on the 5,200 lbs axles, the outer bearing number is # LM67048, the inner bearing is # 25580 and the grease seal will be 10-36, # RG06-070. Now, before you order your parts, you will need to remove the wheel and hubs to inspect the bearings to see if the bearing numbers are match to the ones listed above. If they match then you will need # BK3-300. This is a bearing kit that will include both...
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  • Replacement Hub Needed for Lippert 122093 Hub on 5,200 lbs Axle
  • If you are needing the hub and drum assembly then you will want to go with the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-201-5UC3-EZ but if you are just looking for an idler hub then you will want part # 8-213-5UC1 instead. These come with the correct bearings that you need for your spindle but you will need to also purchase the correct Grease Seal, part # RG06-070, as the seal that comes with either hub is slightly too small. I have confirmed these parts with my contact at Lippert to make...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit With Seal for 7000 lb Lippert Axle
  • The Lippert 7,000 lb axles use a seal that is 2.250 inches inner diameter and 3.376 inches outer diameter. You will want Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) # RG06-070 for the replacements or complete bearing kit # BK3-200 which includes replacement bearings, races, and seal for each hub.
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  • Recommended Replacement for Reliable CL 1000 Calibers
  • I have a solution for you, however, we do not carry a direct replacement for Reliable brake components. I recommend one of the Kodiak disc Brake Kits, like # K2HR526D. This kit includes 2- 12" brake rotors with 6 on 5-1/2 inch wheel bolt pattern and 5 bolt brake flanges for 5,200 to 6,000 lbs axles. This disc brake kit will work with 14-1/2,15, and 16 inch wheels. Checking the wheel bearing numbers will confirm which kit will work with your axle spindles. This kit uses # 25580 for...
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  • Difference Between Grease Seal GS-2125DL and Seal 22558
  • The two seals you mentioned have different inner diameters. The part # GS-2125DL has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and the part number 22558 has same dimensions as # RG06-070 which has inner diameter of 2.25inch. Both have same outer diameter of 3.371 inch.
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  • Replacement Timken Trailer Bearings, Races, and Grease Seals
  • I do have the correct replacement bearings for you but we do not carry Timken products. The parts we have that match the parts numbers you have provided are as follows: Inner Bearing: part # 25580 - I.D. 1.750" Outer Bearing: part # 2585 - I.D. 1.313" Inner Race: part # 25520 - O.D. 3.265" Outer Race: part # 2520 - O.D. 2.615" Grease Seals: part # RG06-070 - I.D. 2.250" O.D. 3.376" When replacing these bearings I recommend using the UltraLube Biobased LMX Red Grease - Industrial...
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  • Replacement Double-Lip Seal for Lippert Part 122088 with 2.250" ID and 3.376" OD
  • We do offer double-lip grease seals from TruRyde that have a 2.250" ID and a 3.376" OD. We have part # GS-2250DL for just one seals or part # RG06-070 for two seals.
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  • Which Replacement Grease Seal Goes with Inner Bearing 25580
  • On hubs that use 25580 as the inner bearing the axles could be anywhere from 5,200 pounds to 8,000 pounds. The most likely is that it is a 6,000 pound axle. So the seals that are used on those axles are going to be # GS2250DL, # RG06-070, or # RG06-090 and possibly others. The differences are the sizes. # GS-2250DL is 2.250" ID - 3.376" OD # RG06-070 is the same as above except that it is a set of 2 seals # RG06-090 is a set but the IN is 2.125" and the OD is 3.376" If you can...
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  • Recommended Replacement Wheel Bearings On An Airstream Trailer
  • Yes, the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing, # 25580, is the replacement for the Airstream trailer bearing 4T-25580. It has an inner diameter of 1.750 inches and has the same outer diameter as well. If the (back)INNER bearing is the 4T-25580, then there are 3 different common outer bearing combinations. If you have a 6,000 lb axle, the outer bearing will be # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-070 will be needed as well. The bearing kit that includes these 3 parts is # BK3-100. If you...
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  • Parts Recommendation for Converting to Electric/Hydraulic Disc Brakes on 2017 Montana 3160RL
  • Since you have Dexter 7,000 lb axles the Kodiak Disc Brake kit part # K2HR712D is the correct kit. You'd need a kit for each of your axles that you want disc brakes on. This kit is also Dacromet coated which means it will resist corrosion for a very long time. You'll also need bearings part # 25580 and # 14125A as well as the seals part # RG06-070. Then for an actuator kit with brake lines and everything else you'll need I recommend the HydraStar Electric-Hydraulic Actuator w/ Line...
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  • Parts Needed to Convert 2008 Inferno Toyhauler to Disc Brakes
  • The Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR79E fits your Lippert 6k axles and has the 8 lug bolt pattern like you need so it would be exactly what you'd want. You'd need a set for each axle. For bearings you'll need part # 25580 and # 02475 for each assembly plus the seal # RG06-070 for each assembly. For a triple-axle disc brake trailer you will want a 1600-psi electric-over-hydraulic actuator to ensure sufficient operating pressure. We offer a nice kit from CTS, the HydraStar Marine Electric...
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  • Wheel Bearing Grease Recommendation for 7k Lippert Axle
  • The RED grease is the best grease for trailer hubs. It's marine grade and the most heavy-duty grease around so its what we recommend the most. For that you would want # L11390. This grease also happens to be the most universal. You are going to need to measure your current spindle to determine whether or not you need a 2-1/8 inch seal like # RG06-090 or if you need a 2-1/4 inch seal like # RG06-070. You will need to take the measurement of the spindle where the grease seal rides....
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  • Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for Trailer with Dexter 7,000 lb Axles
  • For your trailer that has Dexter 7,000 lb capacity axles the Kodiak Disc Brake kit I recommend is the part # K2HR712D. You'll need the seal part # RG06-070 and the bearings part # 25580 and # 14125A and you'll be set. I recommend this kit because all of the components are Dacromet coated which means they'll do an excellent job resisting corrosion. Then for the actuator kit you'd want the HydraStar setup part # HBA16-252-82. This comes with the needed brake lines and breakaway kit to...
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  • Timbren Axle-Less Suspension System Compatible with Jeep for Matching Trailer
  • For the Timbren Axle-Less kit compatible with the bolt pattern of 5 on 5 like a Jeep, you would need the 2,200 lb capacity # ASR1THDS03. The spindles on the Timbren system are a little larger than their thru-axle counterparts, so the 3,500 lbs # ASR3500S06 will only fit larger hubs that won't have the bolt pattern you seek. Using # ASR1THDS03, you can then use the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 3,500-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 5 on 5 # AKIHUB-550-35-EZ-K or the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly...
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  • Locating Replacement Grease Seal for Harbor Freight Trailer with 1.21 Inch Inner Diameter
  • The closest grease seal we have available to the dimensions you provided is the TruRyde # 34823. This particular seal has an inner diameter of 1.249 inches and an outer diameter of 1.983 inches. I was not able to cross-reference the number you found on the seal to an available part. I simply recommend verifying the measurements you took on your seal with a digital caliper. You can also take a quick measurement on the spindle where the seal rides to get the inner diameter you need.
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  • Grease Seal to Replace Transcom Seal 22333VB in 5th Wheel Hub
  • For a replacement seal for part 22333VB you can use part # GS-2250DL which is a direct replacement for Transcom seal 22333VB. We offer this same seal as a pair as part # RG06-070.
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  • Parts Needed to Change Electric Brakes on a Tandem Axle Trailer to Electric-Over-Hydraulic Disc
  • For a disc brake assembly I recommend going with the Kodiak Disc Brake Assembly # K2HR712DS for 1/2" diameter studs or Kit # K2HRCM1337-9DAC for 9/16" diameter studs. Both of these kits are for 7,000 lb trailer axles. For the inner bearing use part # 25580, outer bearing use part # 02475, and grease seal use part # RG06-070. If you have two 3,500 lb axles on your trailers I recommend the Titan Disc Brake Assembly # T10HREKITBB (2 for each axle) which comes with inner bearing # L68149,...
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  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for Car Hauler with Dexter 7,000 lb Axles
  • For Dexter 7k axles we have the Kodiak XL Disc Brake Kit part # K2HR712D which is a confirmed fit and would work well. You will need to provide the bearings though which are part numbers # 25580 and # 14125A. For a grease seal you would need part # RG06-070.
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  • Timbren 5,200 Pound Axle-Less System Hub and Drums and Electric Brake Assemblies
  • The 5,200 pound Timbren Axle-Less systems do not come with hubs and drums so your best option in this capacity is to go with # ASR5200S01 and add the hub and drum assemblies and brakes. For the hub and drum assemblies you would need 2 of # 8-201-5UC3-EZ. These have a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern though. There are no assemblies that will fit the spindles on the 5,200 pound Timbren systems AND have a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. This means if your wheels are 5 on 4-1/2 you would have to replace them...
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  • Replacement Kodiak 13" Hub and Rotor with 8 on 6-1/2" Bolt Pattern
  • The part 133-7-8-DAC you referenced is a Kodiak 13" hub and rotor with a 8 on 6-1/2" bolt pattern, 1/2" lug studs, and a dacromet finish. I do have options that will work for you but we do not have this exact replacement. Instead, we have the raw part # KHR13712 and e-coat part # KHR13712E versions of this hub/rotor. Please note that none of the above hub/rotors come with the bearings or seal. To replace them you will also want to use the following: Inner Bearing - part # 25580 Outer...
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  • What Bearings Does a Lippert 5,200 lb Axle Use
  • I spoke with Lippert and unfortunately they were not able to pull any information using the number you provided. Instead, you are going to be looking for a serial number which usually starts with either "NV" or "045". Once you can provide this I would be happy to give them a call again and make sure you get the correct replacement bearings. If you cannot find the serial number then your only other option would be to measure the spindle where the bearings and seals sit with a digital...
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  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for 7k Trailer Axles
  • For Dexter and most common brand 7k axles we have the Kodiak XL Disc Brake Kit part # K2HR79E which is a confirmed fit and would work well. You will need to provide the bearings though which are part numbers # 25580 and # 02475 (you need two of each of these). For a grease seal you would need part # RG06-070. For an actuator you would want the part # HBA16.
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  • How to Pick Out a Grease Seal for a 5,200 lb Axle that Has Hubs with 6 on 5-1/2 inch Bolt Pattern
  • Based on the information you provided I am nearly positive you would need the part # RG06-070 for replacement seals as these have an ID of 2.250 and an OD of 3.376. Based on the lug pattern and weight capacity of your axles these would be the correct seals for most trailer axles. You can pull off your trailer hub and measure the seal to be certain though.
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  • 6,000 lb Disc Brake Kit with 6 Lug Bolt Pattern for Converting Raptor Toy Hauler to Disc Brakes
  • The bearing difference doesn't mean too much since the spindles are the same so regardless of which axle you decide to put the brake kit on you'll need a 6k rated disc brake kit with an 6 lug bolt pattern. So for that we have the Kodiak brake kit part # K2HR526D which is a fit for your spindles. This kit does require the bearings part number # 25580 and # 15123 and seal part # RG06-070 which are sold separately. Or if instead you were wanting a kit that uses an idler hub and a slip-on...
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Info for this part was:

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