1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 2.250 Inch I.D.
  6. 3.376 Inch O.D.
Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Item # RG06-070
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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RG06-070 - 3.376 Inch O.D. TruRyde Seals
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) part number RG06-070 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-070

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.250 Inch I.D.
  • 3.376 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde


Trailer Hub Grease Seals

  • Two 10-36 Seals per Package
  • Double Lip Seal
    • For single lip seal see # 42385

I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
2.250 3.376 E-Z Lube End Units

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
010-036-00
22333TBN
452920/482920
AD3135E1/AD3135EO
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RG06-070 Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)





Video of Grease Seals 10-36 (pair)

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) - RG06-070

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (349 Customer Reviews)


- RG06-070
by:

So far working well, no issues 732954



- RG06-070
by:

Excellent quality. Prompt delivery. 737245



- RG06-070
by:

They're exactly the replacements I was needing. I always carry parts for just an emergency like if a bearing went bad on the camper while traveling. I recently swapped out all four drums, brake assemblies and bearings on my camper. The seals were the wrong ones that came with the drums. I had four that were correct. These replaced the ones that I had. They are inexpensive. So why not purchase all four. 382509


Comments
I have swapped out the axles for bigger ones and passed my spare seals, bearings and races on to someone else that has them. They are great to have as spares in case of trouble while traveling. This reminds me to order some for my new axles. etrailer is always my first choice to shop and purchase. Extremely happy with their Inventory, service and delivery.
Robert N - 05/19/2018

38674

- RG06-070
by:

Bearings were received in a timely way, installed and have1500 miles on them with no problems. I use etrailer for all my trailer needs and have always gotten good product and good service. 652424



- RG06-070
by:

Thanks to Nicole she found the same item that I ordered 3 years ago. This product works great, and was an exact replacement for my OEM seals. 570398



- RG06-070
by:

Package was delivered in record time. Everything fit, no issues with missing parts. Was complete with a simple installation. Took approximately 1 1/2 per wheel including repacking of wheel bearings. 682788



- RG06-070
by:

I used these bearing race seals (in different sizes of course) on 3 different trailers (a double axle Featherlight 23' gooseneck horse, single axle 19' pop-up Chalet A frame camper, and a Fox double axle 20' flatbed hay hauler when I serviced the bearings last winter. The hay hauler had heavy use with many 5 ton loads of hay and several thousand miles on the road. The camper traveled 6 thousand miles, and the horse trailer saw moderate use. I had no leaks or seal failures. The seals performed flawlessly. I will buy them again on my next service. etrailer sells them at a great price, and are they are very trustworthy! 456578


Comments
Still great product reliability after one year of heavy use. Just returned from a 2500 mile trip to North Dakota and back with my horse trailer acting as a moving van. No bearing issues arose through very bad weather involving snow, ice, and heavy rain. Nothing but good to say about these products. Total reliability.
Michael D - 12/02/2018

46308

- RG06-070
by:

I have ordered from etrailer.com on other occasions and for the most part what keeps me coming back in the pricing. They usually have the lowest price for the same original equipment. Be careful if you haven't heard that your product has shipped in a reasonable amount of time, even if their website says they have the item in stock. They will hold your order until they have all the parts to ship. I had not seen a shipped email for almost a week and when I called they said they would have it to ship in mid august, about a month after I ordered. I was told they had a similar item in stock ready to ship now if I wanted to change my order. I appreciated that and did change my order, however, I needed to know that information at the time they knew it because I had to change my vacation plans because I could not get the parts in time to take our 5th wheel. Overall this is a good place to order parts from and I will keep doing so. 414911



- RG06-070
by:

I would appreciate if you teach your order pickers how to read orders, if it says a set that means a set of two and when someone orders two sets that means four seals not just two. Lucky for me the person was understanding and can wait til the other seals get here. 565770



- RG06-070
by:

Exact replacement seals so that I can repack my wheel bearings on the trailer. Great price and quality is good which is want I want in the wheel bearings and seals I use. 225580


Comments
Have not experienced any issues at all with the product
ERP - 09/14/2016

20963

- RG06-070
by:

As usual with etrailer ordered it got it quick and it was perfect ! Thanks folks. 565112



- RG06-070
by:

Delivery was fast and Vince C was extremely helpful getting the order together. I'm up here in Canada and E-Trailer is my "go To" place for Car Hauler parts for sure! 192288


Comments
Etrailer is certainly my Go To place for trailer parts and accessories, even if I live in Canada. In the long run its so beneficial just having the knowledge and expertise at Etrailer to help me ensure I am purchasing the right parts and that I have everything essential for a repair. As noted previously, after having to change wheel bearings & seals on the side of an interstate, we carry a complete 6 bolt hub assembly with us now.
Bob B - 05/20/2016

17794

- RG06-070
by:

Thanks George Sadly don't have pics ability, but, The seals and rim clamps for my ancient dayton axled trailer fit perfectly. Rim clamps relieved the inch and a half wobble from the left side that had looked like an obvious bearing failure. Was really impressed with the rim clamps having stamped "wheel/ rim" , Silly me, being and old tire man, would have thought the rim was the wheel. My old school mentality specially with an old dayton hub/wheel...still, got her done. Course a bonnet is hood is a.... engine cover, is an glove compartment and a Lorry is a Truck in other parts of the world...! Thanks for the great service. I cheated as an old tire/parts/mechanic/guy by actually measuring the seals after visiting Napa, Auto Zone, and getting the ....duhhh....blanks that I expected. From now on it's You All, when I need trailer parts...! 568831



- RG06-070
by:

I bought these as spares, because I'll be doing the bearing maintenance by hand every 12,000 miles and not utilizing the EZ Lube system that came with the trailer. The dam EZ Lube system is the reason I had to change the brake pads out.... using a grease gun, grease blew by the seals and saturated the pads with grease... I think the EZ Lube system would be great for a trailer that didn't have drum brakes.. .. .. Besides, it'll give me an opportunity to look at the condition of the bearings, race and brake pads, as well as adjust the brakes. 453771



- RG06-070
by:

Always get the extra seals in case you mess one up by putting it in and realize bearing is on bench or you just plain mess one up or need it on the road they are double lip seal with spring also orielly tried to sell me single lip seal would have grease in your brakes with single lip these are just what I needed 738514



- RG06-070
by:

Everything worked perfectly. Shipping was fast and I had no problems installing. Thanks e-trailer 737972



- RG06-070
by:

Just starting my new business I knew I would have to do things myself to save money. Etrailer Made it simple with one phone call. Lori was knowledgeable and easy to talk to and I saved hundreds ordering from them. My local trailer sales and service was triple the price. Thanks etrailer. 737904



- RG06-070
by:

Just finished installing new brake assemblies on my double axel Crusader 295 RST. (2014) 5th wheel. It was straight forward with no surprises and a perfect fit. The hardest part was packing the wheel bearings after cleaning them. Testing and adjusting was also a easy task. I must admit it took the better part of a day to do it myself but that's not bad for a 72 year old and I saved a bunch of money! 737870



- RG06-070
by:

Its been a year and everything from etrailer is working like it should. I tell my friends "etrailer is the goto place for my trailer parts! " 733890



- RG06-070
by:

GREAT 732268



- RG06-070
by:

Seals fit with no issues. They are slightly different than the stock ones in the fact that there is no inner metal face that almost reaches the seal lip ID creating a double wall for the body of the seal. Could be good or a bad thing depending on how you view the situation. Easier to clean out when repacking bearings with this design, but will inherently hold more grease because of the missing inner wall. 721397



- RG06-070
by:

I ordered the complete brake assembly including the backing plate. For all four wheels on my fithwheel. My son is a professional mechanic said it was the easiest brake job he ever did. Ordering was easy the young lady was very knowledgeable and the parts were delivered two days early. I will order parts from etrailer again. 719245



- RG06-070
by:

Everything is running great thank you you guys have a great company appreciate it and get it out quick and it’s always right 715863



- RG06-070
by:

Perfect fit 707324



- RG06-070
by:

Great service, was hoping for faster delivery, lug nuts I ordered won’t work they tell me but it’s all good thank you 707980


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Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Bearing Kit With Seal for 7000 lb Lippert Axle
    The Lippert 7,000 lb axles use a seal that is 2.250 inches inner diameter and 3.376 inches outer diameter. You will want Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) # RG06-070 for the replacements or complete bearing kit # BK3-200 which includes replacement bearings, races, and seal for each hub.
    view full answer...
  • Locating Replacement Grease Seal for Harbor Freight Trailer with 1.21 Inch Inner Diameter
    The closest grease seal we have available to the dimensions you provided is the TruRyde # 34823. This particular seal has an inner diameter of 1.249 inches and an outer diameter of 1.983 inches. I was not able to cross-reference the number you found on the seal to an available part. I simply recommend verifying the measurements you took on your seal with a digital caliper. You can also take a quick measurement on the spindle where the seal rides to get the inner diameter you need.
    view full answer...
  • What Bearings Does a Lippert 5,200 lb Axle Use
    I spoke with Lippert and unfortunately they were not able to pull any information using the number you provided. Instead, you are going to be looking for a serial number which usually starts with either "NV" or "045". Once you can provide this I would be happy to give them a call again and make sure you get the correct replacement bearings. If you cannot find the serial number then your only other option would be to measure the spindle where the bearings and seals sit with a digital...
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal to Replace Transcom Seal 22333VB in 5th Wheel Hub
    For a replacement seal for part 22333VB you can use part # GS-2250DL which is a direct replacement for Transcom seal 22333VB. We offer this same seal as a pair as part # RG06-070.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Dexter Seal for 6,500 Axle K71-386-00
    You will need the part # RG06-070. I looked up the K71-386-00 seal that you mentioned and it has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. This seal is normally seen on 5.2k Dexter axles all the way up to 8k axles.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Seal for a Lippert 12088 Seal
    The Lippert Seal part number 122088 that you referenced has the same dimensions of 2.25 inner and 3.376 outer diameter as the Grease Seals # 10-36 that you referenced so they should work well for you. Seal width should not matter, the only important dimensions are inner and outer diameter.
    view full answer...
  • Which Grease Seal Will Fit a Dexter K71-305-00 For My Trailer Axle
    The correct grease seal for your axle is # RG06-070. I've attached a video review for you to take a look at.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal for National 412920 on Heartland 5th Wheel Trailer
    For a grease seal that will replace your existing National 412920, you can use the TruRyde Grease Seals # RG06-070. These feature the same inner and outer diameter as the National model that you referenced and will work well. This seal is also typically found on 7,000 pound axles like what your trailer has, so this should be the correct size. A grease seal is designed to help prevent water and dirt from entering the hubs, while providing protection against bearing failure. With this...
    view full answer...
  • Difference Between Trailer Grease Seal Part Numbers RG06-070 and GS-2250DL
    The difference between the two part numbers you mentioned is the quantity of seals that comes with the part number. Part # RG06-070 is for a pair of seals whereas the part # GS-2250DL is for an individual seal.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal And Bearing Kit For Lippert 5200-Lb Axle On RV Trailer
    The grease seals that will work with your Lippert axle is part # RG06-070. this comes with a quantity of 2 double-lipped seals in the package. If you have everything apart you may want to replace the bearings and races as well. You would need part # BK3-300. This includes the inner and outer bearing, a grease seal, and the inner and outer races as well as a cotter pin. This kit is what you need for one wheel so if you are rebuilding all four then you can change the quantity when ordering.
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  • Grease Seal and Grease Recommendation for Dexter 7k Axle
    For a Dexter 7k axle the correct grease seal is the part # RG06-070. LMX Red grease is the highest quality grease rated for wheel bearing use. I would recommend going with that. For that you would want part # L11390.
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  • How to Determine which Dexter Axle is on a Trailer
    It sounds like the 6K might be referring to 6,000 pounds although I cannot be 100 percent sure on that. I could tell you for sure if you could tell me the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped in to the bearings. A 7K axle will use inner bearing 25580 or 28580 and outer bearing 14125A, 15123, or 25580. A 6K axle will use inner bearing 25580 or 501349 and outer bearing 14125A, 15123, 506849, or LM67048. A 5200 pound axle will use inner bearing 25580 and outer bearing 14125A, 15213,...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Grease Seal for a Dexter 7000 lb Axle
    You are going to need to measure your current spindle to determine whether or not you need a 2-1/8 inch seal like # RG06-090 or if you need a 2-1/4 inch seal like # RG06-070. You will need to take the measurement of the spindle where the grease seal rides. See attached picture.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for National 413470 Seal
    Your National seal 413470 has an outer diameter of 3.376 inches and an inner diameter of 2.125 inches. For a replacement we have # GS-2125DL for one seal or # RG06-090 for a pair. These are all double lip seals.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Transcom TCM22333TBN
    The part number "TCM22333TBN" that you referenced on your grease seal cross-references to the Grease Seals 10-36 part # RG06-070. If you need any other parts for your trailer hubs i.e. bearings or races, I would need to know either the part number or inner and outer diameters in order to recommend replacements for you.
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  • Replacement Dexter Grease Seal for Seal Part K71-386-00
    Yes, you can use the seal part # RG06-070. I looked up the K71-386-00 seal that you mentioned and it has matching dimensions, an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. This seal is commonly found on Dexter axles rated from 5200-lbs to 8000-lbs.
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  • Do Grease Seals Need to be Replaced When Changing Out Brake Shoes on a 12k Dump Trailer
    As long as the seals are in good condition, you should not need to change them out in order to replace your current brake shoes, because the assembly itself will stay mounted and the seal would come off with the hub drum. As a suggestion, however, while you have your hub drum off to replace the shoes, I would also just go ahead and repack your bearings. If you did this you would have to replace the seal, but with the amount of usage it sounds like your trailer is getting, it would be...
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  • Replacement Grease Seals for Dexter Part # 010-036-00 on a 7,000lb Trailer Axle
    The Tru Ryde grease seals you mentioned, part # RG06-70 are indeed a replacement for the 10-036-00 Dexter seals. They would work great for your application.
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  • Availability of a Replacement Grease Seal to Replace C/R 22558 Seals on an Older 5th Wheel Trailer
    I believe we do have grease seals for your trailer. The Grease Seals 10-36, item # RG06-070, most likely are the correct seals for your trailer. The information I have is that the C/R 22558 seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.371 inches. The Grease Seals 10-36, item # RG06-070, have a inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches, this is a double lip seal. The Grease Seal, item # GS-2250DL, would also work for your trailer. The...
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  • How to Pick Out Correct Replacement Seals for a Trailer Hub
    In order to get the correct replacement seal you will want to remove the seal from your hub and get the number stamped on it. If you can't find the number you can also use the dimensions of your seal to get the correct replacement. Get the outer diameter of the seal, and then using a dial caliper measure the diameter of the surface that the seal rides on the spindle and we will be able to find you the correct spindle. I attached a link to a page that has all of our grease seals.
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  • How to Identify Correct Replacement Grease Seal for RV with Lippert Axle
    The best way to find the correct replacement grease seals for the hubs on your Lippert 5200-lb axle is to pull one hub and remove the seal to get its part number. The info you provided (thank you) is a model description but the actual axle serial number or the variant number (starts with a "V") will allow Lippert to pull the actual bill of material for your specific axle and tell you the seal part without you having to pull the old one. If you can get me the serial number I will be glad...
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  • Grease Seals for AL-KO T52 Axle with #42 Spindles and Bearings 25580 and 15123
    Your AL-KO T-52 axle has # 42 spindles that use hub assemblies with a # 25580 inner bearing and # 15123 outer bearing. The grease seal most often associated with this bearing set is part # GS-2250DL for 1 seal or # RG06-070 for a pair.
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  • Recommended Hub Components For Dexter 4,300-Lb Axle On 2013 Airstream Trailer
    I found the components you need for your Dexter axle on your Airstream trailer. The grease seal you need is part # RG06-070. The inner bearing is part # 25580. The inner race is part # 25520. The outer bearing is part # LM67048, and the outer race is part # LM67010. I have also attached a helpful article that explains how to replace hub components. To make the job of packing the wheel bearing much easier I recommend a bearing packer like part # L70025. For grease I recommend part...
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  • Determining Correct Replacement Bearings for Eclipse Toy Hauler
    We do likely have the bearings and seals needed for the hubs on your 2017 Eclipse Attitude Toy Hauler, however I was not able to locate the exact sizes you need. Trailer manufacturer's don't usually keep an accurate record of these types of parts that are installed at the factory, so in order to determine the correct replacement bearings you will just need to pull one of the hubs. After you pull the hub, you will want to check for the bearing numbers that should be stamped right inside...
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  • Lippert 5200lb Axle Hub Grease Seal Recommendation
    Lippert 5,200 lb axles use the grease seal part # GS-2125DL. For a kit that would include new bearings as well you'd want # BK3-310.
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  • Trostel 324-216-8 Replacement Grease Seal
    Many times the thickness of the grease seals # RG06-070 is not a factor. If this is a trailer hub there should be enough room for the seal to fit flush with seal flange.
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  • Using Gasket Maker on Grease Seals
    Using the gasket product is not really necessary, as the 10-36 double lip seal will do a good job of keeping the grease in its place unless the hub is being overfilled with grease. If you are dealing with a idler hub with no brake assembly or brake mounting flange on the axle, applying some of the product to the seal AFTER the hub is in place on the spindle would be fine, but placing the gasket product on the seal before the hub is slid onto the spindle could cause the gasket material to...
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  • Advantage of Double Lip Grease Seals Versus Single Lip
    A double lip seal is an upgrade over the single lip that uses a reinforcing spring behind the lip that does a better job of retaining the grease inside the hub and excluding water and road grime. It is perfectly acceptable to use a double lip seal for non-ez lube spindles.
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  • Comparing Chinese Bearings with Bearings Made in the USA
    A bearing, no matter where it is made, has to meet certain standards for use in the United States. With that said there are some cases where despite having to meet these standards, the US made product is better. When it comes to bearings though I have seen USA made bearings fail as much as Chinese bearings. And I have seen each perform well. The key is to keep the bearings properly lubricated, packed with grease. If someone neglects basic maintenance then they will have trouble, no...
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