Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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etrailer

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Seals

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Grease Seals - Double Lip

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1.719 Inch I.D.

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2.565 Inch O.D.

Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles

Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles

Item # 58846

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Retail:$3.60

Our Price: $2.90

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Shipping Weight: 0.07 lbs

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps 58846 - 1.719 Inch I.D. - etrailer
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Replacement grease seal. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles part number 58846 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 58846

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.719 Inch I.D.
  • 2.565 Inch O.D.
  • etrailer

Replacement grease seal. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in.


Features:

  • Replaces worn or damaged grease seals to help maintain optimal performance of bearings
  • Helps keep moisture out and grease in with double-lip design


Specs:

  • Inner diameter: 1.719"
  • Outer diameter: 2.565"
  • Quantity: 1 seal


Inner Diameter (ID)
Outer Diameter (OD)
Applications
1.719 2.565 3,500-lb Axles



DL-172-03 AxleTek Double Lip Grease Seal 2.565" Outer Diameter - 3,500-lb axles

Same as 158800, GS-1719DL, 58846, and 171255







Video of Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles - 58846

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (166 Customer Reviews)

Replacement grease seal. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in.

- 58846
by:

I have use etrailer twice now and it's all been good. They are really good people to work with. I only have good things to say about them. I will use them whenever I can, 717981



- 58846
by:

Perfect seal for the job. 645324



- 58846
by:

Works and Fits as it should, No leaking after a year 602933



- 58846
by:

I bought seals and brake shoes.Unfortunatly,one of The brake shoes in the box was a duplicate.Left and right side shoes are noticably different.I notified etrailer and they expedited a new set and e mailed me a return label.Other than having to drop it off at a UPS store it wasn't that big of an inconvenience.Parts fit and work well.I would use etrailer moving forward. 649588



- 58846
by:

Quick shipping . Haven't installed yet but have no doubts they will work. 634163



- 58846
by:

Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed. 572866



- 58846
by:

I bought this kit last year to replaced the existing brakes, bearings and seals on our 2010 Jayco 23B. We went on eight different camping trips this year and they work great! We noticed a huge improvement when applying the brakes to slow down or stopping the camper altogether. I highly recommend this kit because they were easy to install and the noticed stopping power.Please feel free to ask me any questions regarding this kit. 565943



- 58846
by:

Information on site was outstanding allowing easy selection of the correct bearing seal. Once I made the selection a confirmation was sent out via email and included videos on how to perform bearing removal, repacking and installation of the seal. Item received the product within 4 days after ordering. 401409



- 58846
by:

Good product - quick shipping - great pricing and customer service! 90714


Comments

Everything is still great...trailer is still rolling along.

Rusty O - 01/20/2015

8762

- 58846
by:

Recently bought an antique boat in Wisconsin and towed it to St. Louis. I knew the trailer tires were more than 20 years old. So when I went to get the boat on its trailer, I took new tires, mounted on new wheels, purchased from ettrailer. I checked wheel bearing temperatures during the trip -- after greasing them via Bearing Buddies. Made the trip OK, but have now cleaned and packed the bearings on both wheels. Of course, I needed two new seals. I really like shopping at etrailer. Saves me time and the website is full of helpful, valuable info. 309921



- 58846
by:

I recently ordered grease seals and electric brake assemblies from etrailer.com. The service was fantastic and the products were delivered very quickly. The on-line videos of how to do the job right were extremely helpful. I make a lot of on-line purchases and etrailer has consistently been the very best at responsiveness, ease of use, getting the order right, prompt delivery and helpful on line services. I don't often provide feedback for online purchases, but etrailer is the best and deserved some of my time to write this review. 63249



- 58846
by:

Excellent time on receiving orders 728723



- 58846
by:

Worked as expected 727989



- 58846
by:

This boat trailer came with Tie-Down brake components, and I believe they were bought out by Dexter. Trying to find these specific part numbers on-line was virtually impossible. Thanks to bits and pieces I could glean from this website I made a calculated guess for proper replacement components -- including these grease seals and clips where you would usually use cotter pins. Best I can tell everything seems to be working correctly. The seals at least fit into the drums without difficulty. The boat is now owned by a friend and I guess I'll learn next year if the seals actually keep water out of the axle and bearings. 724607



- 58846
by:

etrailer is by far the best!! 716121



- 58846
by:

Great product, fast shipping and super easy install. 714835



- 58846
by:

Super fast shipping, and quality item. Worked great!! I will definitely be a return customer. 714834



- 58846
by:

My experience has been that etrailer kicks some serious butt from its website to the products and right on up to my front door with expedient delivery and solid packaging. The seals I ordered were the perfect replacement part and seemed to be of quality. As Arnie used to say “I’ll be back”. 708394



- 58846
by:

Great Deal 714653



- 58846
by:

etrailer gave me great service: prompt communication, shipping, and on time delivery for original manufacturer replacement parts. I'm very pleased and will be a returning customer. 713570



- 58846
by:

Fast delivery, great customer service. 706090



- 58846
by:

Fits my 1988 Shorelander 3500 lb. single axel trailer with Dexter 8-247 hub. Arrived when expected. 699455



- 58846
by:

PRODUCT FITS CORRECTLY, FAST SHIPPING, RECEIVED IN 2 DYAS 695372



- 58846
by:

product and service --couldn't ask for more !!! super fast delivery !!! 695073



- 58846
by:

Excellent Customer service experience. Product is as promised and good value. Thank you, Shelia 690879



- 58846
by:

Good quality. 683633



- 58846
by:

Part was correct and of good quality. Fast shipping 678789



- 58846
by:

Fit well and were just like original, old seals cannot be reused as they are damaged during bearing removal. Very reasonably priced and delivery was as expected 677219



- 58846
by:

Nice double lip seals. Was replacing all 4 seals on 2 dexter 3500 lb. axles during routine bearing maintenance. Fit exactly as should. Etrailer has excellent videos and descriptions of parts to help select the best product for my needs. Always excellent parts and fast shipping. 676780



- 58846
by:

Good price and fast delivery. It appears that they are OEM seals and not a China cheap copy. Thank you 671379



- 58846
by:

Excellent replacement, fit was perfect. Also your website video tutorial was a great help! Thanks. The grease cap appeared to be a tad bigger that original. 665756



- 58846
by:

Many miles and smiles with these. I boat in saltwater and have yet to have a seal issues. I have Sup R lube hubs and to add grease you need to rotate the wheel to save the seal but I don’t and these hold up 663303



- 58846
by:

as described, fast delivery 663106



- 58846
by:

As expected 662607



- 58846
by:

worked as needed. fit great 657713



- 58846
by:

etrailer products and people are Top-of-the-Line. Bought numerous item for my travel trailer through the years. Never, never had a problem with anything bought from them. I have purchased complete brake assy, bearing sets, seals, etc. Numerous tools. Great company. 656668



- 58846
by:

Holds the grease in as intended. 652173



- 58846
by:

buy these for my,road trip , just in ca se 651330



- 58846
by:

They were as described and worked well!!! Great price on a needed item!!! 651289



- 58846
by:

Bought some of these to replace the old ones during a bearing service, perfect match. Keep a few on hand for the future. Using on a dual axle 3500lb per axle, car hauler. Great price. As always easy to find trailer parts at Etrailer. 637913



- 58846
by:

Happy to find a place willing to locate what I needed 625349



- 58846
by:

Fast shipment, at a fair price 616612



- 58846
by:

Correct tolerances and easy to install 608197



- 58846
by:

What an awesome company! I ordered these grease seals and they arrived a full day ahead of schedule, and in perfect order. I couldn't have asked for a better shopping experience. I can't wait to place another order with Etrailer! 606900



- 58846
by:

Great seals at a bargain price. 593260



- 58846
by:

Great service, real fast 592445



- 58846
by:

Fit perfectly 588578



- 58846
by:

The bearing seals fit perfectly. 581412



- 58846
by:

Seals were of the correct size both OD and ID to fit my Triple Crown 3500 lb axle trailer hubs. 581182



- 58846
by:

Fit better then original - saved my bacon - local parts houses did not have a clue 571973


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter Idler Hub Assembly for 3500 lb Axles # 84545BX
  • The bearing replacements I recommend for the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 3,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 # 84545BX are: Inner bearing: # L68149 (1.378" inner diameter) Outer bearing: # L44649 (1.063" inner diameter) If you need the grease seal, I recommend # 58846 or # RG06-050 which have the same measurements. You can get everything in a kit using just the Bearing Kit for 84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal # BK2-100. You may also be interested in...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Replacement Hubs for a Boat Trailer
  • To determine which hubs would be best for your boat trailer there are a few things you will need to look at; the axle capacity on your boat trailer, the inner bearing number, outer bearing number, grease seal number, the bolt pattern of your wheels, and whether or not your trailer has brakes. If you do not know what your axle capacity is you can find it located on the axle itself. It is usually located towards the middle and will typically be stamped into the axle. The bearing and...
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  • Weight Capacity of Dexter P-12 Model SLR Axle
  • I reached out to my contact at Dexter Axle who said that your axle is rated for 3,500 lbs and it uses inner bearing # L68149, outer bearing # L44649, and the grease seal # 58846. All of these can be found in the kit # BK2-100 if you are needing to replace your bearings and seals.
    view full answer...

  • Adding Brakes to Dexter 3,000 lb Trailer Axle
  • The etrailer.com brake set part # AKEBRK-35-SA that you referenced is a fit for your Dexter 3,500 lb axle. You will need to replace your current hub with hub/drums but aside from that you'd have all the parts needed. For hub/drums you'd then need the part # 008-418-02 which will require bearings # LM67048, # L44649, and grease seal # 58846.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement hub Parts for 3,000 lb Dexter Axle With Bearings LM67048 and L44649
  • There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. Obviously, you will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hub/Drum Assembly Needed for a Dexter 8-147 Assembly
  • Your drum/hub that is the Dexter 8-147 part number should have an inner bearing # LM48548, an outer bearing # L44649, and a grease seal # 58846. If this is the case then we do have some hub/drum assemblies that would work great for your application. The hub/drum assembly that I recommend using is the part # AKHD-545-35-K which is compatible with 3,500 lb axles and has the bearings and seal that fit your spindle. It fits 10" brake assemblies so you will want to verify that on your end. This...
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  • Replacing Electric Brakes and Grease Seals on Dexter 4400-lb Axle
  • Trailer axles with EZ-Lube spindles like # R20384EZ or Bearing Buddy grease caps like # BB1980A-SS do certainly make it a lot easier ensure your hubs are adequately greased, but like many before you (and many that will inevitably follow) you have found out that this feature also makes it easy to accidentally over-fill your hubs with too much grease which can result in blown out grease seals and also contaminated brakes. We can help you with both new seals for your hubs and new electric...
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  • Brakes, Bearings and Grease Seal for Dexter 8-247 Hubs
  • Thank you for that info and we have everything you need. An 8-247 hub and drum, which is the same as Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 84546UC3 uses Inner Bearing # L68149, Outer Bearing # L44649, Inner Race # L68111, Outer Race # L44610 and Grease Seal # 58846. These parts are all available in Bearing Kit # BK2-100. For your brakes the correct replacements are Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Left Hand # 23-26 and Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Right Hand # 23-27....
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  • What Grease Seals Do I Need For An # 84 Spindle
  • If the inner diameter bearing on your spindle measures 1.38" and the outer diameter bearing measures to be 1.06", then you have a #84 spindle such as part # R40484 rated for 3,500 lb. trailer axles. The correct grease seals for this spindle are Grease Seal - Double Lip part # 58846 which has an inner diameter of 1.719" and an outer diameter of 2.565". As the grease seals are a very tight fit, you may want to use a block of wood and mallet to get the seals to seat properly. Attached is...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for Dexter Hub 8-147
  • The inner bearings should be # LM48548 (1.375 inch inner diameter), outer bearing should be # L44649 (1.06 inch inner diameter) and the grease seal should be # 58846. I would recommend you pull your bearings out to verify that but that SHOULD be what you need.
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  • Inner and Outer Bearing and Grease Seal for Older Trailer
  • We carry bearings, races and a seal that are very, very close to your measurements but not exact. For example, the inside bearing we carry is # L68149 and it has a 1.378" inner diameter; the correct race for this is # L68111. For the outer bearing we carry # L44649 which has a 1.063" inner diameter and the matching race is # L44610. Finally there is the grease seal, for which we carry # 58846 which has an inner diameter of 1.719". You could get all of these parts together...
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  • Recommended Brake Assemblies for Karavan Boat Trailer with 3500 lb Axle
  • For your brake assemblies, I recommend the Demco Hydraulic Brake Kit - Free Backing - Galvanized - 10" - Left/Right Hand Assemblies - 3.5K # 40716-15. These galvanized assemblies will work very well for saltwater or freshwater use, resisting corrosion. The free backing design allows you to back up without using the lockout on your coupler. This will absolutely fit your 3500 lb axle. For your Bearing Buddies, bearings, and seals, you very likely have the standard size 84 spindle...
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  • Wire Size Butt Connectors is Needed to Connect Wiring for Electric Trailer Brakes
  • Electric brakes, like part # 23-26-27, use 16 gauge wiring. However, we generally recommend using 10 gauge, like part # 10-2-1, to connect to the brakes because of how far the wiring generally has to be run. So you need to use butt connectors large enough for the 10 gauge wire, like part # DW05745-5. They'll still be able to be crimped down onto the smaller 16 gauge as well, especially since they're heat shrink. Between the two grease seals, parts # 58846 and # RG06-050, we prefer...
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  • Replacement Hubs and Brake Assemblies for Dexter Mobile Home Axle and 8-147 Hubs
  • Based on the information you gave, although I can't help with the axle (other than to state it is a 3,500 lbs axle). Dexter mobile home axles were designed for one time use and weren't really documented for replacement parts, but because you have the hub number I can still give you the info you need for new drums and brakes. Your current Dexter hub 8-147 I was able to look up and it has an inner bearing # LM48548, an outer bearing # L44649, and a grease seal # 58846. Based on this information...
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  • Hubs and Electric Brakes for 2011 Keystone Springdale 179QBWE Travel Trailer
  • Thanks for that info and honestly, you did most of the work yourself so you made this easy and it really is appreciated. The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum for 3,000-lb Axles # 008-418-02 is exactly what you need to replace your Dexter 8-418 and though there is not a kit for this specific hub I will list everything you need for each hub: Inner bearing # LM67048, Outer bearing # L44649, Grease Seal # 58846. You do not actually need to order the accompanying races because they do come with...
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  • How to Select Spare Bearings and Seals for Aluma Trailer with 3500-lb Torsion Axle
  • It is a very good idea to keep spare bearings and seals (and wheel bearing grease too) on hand for the unexpected roadside stop. We have individual bearing and seal parts like # L68149, # L44649 and # 58846 as well as kits like # BK2-100 that combine these popular parts. This kit happens to include the bearing and seal parts above and all are commonly used on 3500-lb axles. You can refer to the linked help articles for more information on bearings and how to replace them. The best way...
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  • Electric Hub and Drum/Self-Adjusting Brakes Assemblies Needed for Lippert 3,500 lb Axles
  • I do have a hub and drum/electric drum brake combination for you, but unfortunately the only pre-greased hubs that we have are idler hubs. I was able to verify with Lippert that the axle with the part V000378958 is a 3,500 lb axle. They were not able to verify the bearings and grease seal but typically a 3,500 lb axle will use an Innder Bearing # L68149, and Outer Bearing # L44649, andthe Grease Seal # 58846 that has a 1.719" ID and a 2.565" OD. If you can verify that this is the...
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  • Bearings and Seal Recommendation for Dexter 3,000 lb Axle
  • Thanks for the picture of the tag on your Dexter trailer axle. From that I can tell you have a 3,000 lb Dexter axle. There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. You will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649. For replacement brake assemblies you'd...
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  • Parts Needed to Add Electric Drum Brakes to Trailer with 3500-lb Axle
  • Starting with your Cherokee, the Prodigy P3 trailer brake controller # 90195 is an excellent choice. This is a superb controller both for performance and reliability. In your 4-pole equipped Jeep vehicle you will hard wire the P3 using the # ETBC7 installation kit. These two items will provide a complete 7-way wiring setup that will generate and deliver trailer brake power to the 7-way socket included in the kit along with all of the required trailer lighting signals. I linked both a...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for 4400-lb Lippert Trailer Axle
  • For a 4400-lb Lippert axle the most popular grease seal is part # 58846. This is a double-lip grease seal with an inside diameter of 1.719-inches and an outside diameter of 2.565-inches. This seal is often used along with inner wheel bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # LM67048.
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  • How to Identify Replacement Bearings and Seal for 3500-lb-Rated Axle
  • The most common set of inner and outer bearings for use on a 3500-lb-rated axle is inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649, and grease seal # 58846. This is noted in the linked article on bearings which lists the most common combinations based on axle weight rating. The best way to proceed is to use the part numbers from the existing bearings and seal to select replacements. This is the most fool-proof way to go. You can refer to the linked image that shows the usual placement...
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  • Trailer Idler Hub Assembly # AKIHUB-545-35-PG-EZK Will Not Fit on Spindle
  • There really are no special instructions for installing a hub, like part # AKIHUB-545-35-PG-EZK that you referenced. You will simply remove the caps on the end and slide it onto your spindle. You will then just need to take off the old washer or nut and reinstall it to secure the hub to your spindle. I have attached a video of a hub being installed that you can use as a reference (start at the 3:20 mark). Since you are having trouble fitting the hub onto your spindle it leads me to believe...
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  • Trailer Hub With Inner Bearing LM67048 and Outer Bearing L44649 and 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern
  • I can help, because we do have one hub that uses a # LM67048 inner bearing, # L44649 outer bearing and has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern, the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum for 3,000-lb Axles # 008-418-02, which will fit your spindle. I have added a link to a video review of this hub and drum for you to check out as well.
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  • Seal With Dimensions to Replace 171255UC
  • Seal 171255UC has an inner diameter of 1.719 inches and outer diameter of 2.565 inches. A seal that has those dimensions would actually be # 58846. I've added a link to a video review of this seal for you to take a look at.
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  • Bearings and Brakes for a 3,500-lb Dexter Axle
  • Thank you very much for the picture! I spoke with my contact at Dexter Axle and gave him the numbers on your axle and he was able to supply me with the information that you are looking for. You have a 3,500-lb axle that uses 10 x 2-1/4" electric brakes, inner bearing # L68149, outer bearing # L44649, and grease seal # 58846. For your brakes I recommend using our Self-Adjusting Brake Kit # AKEBRK-35-SA because after the initial adjustment you don't have to worry about them until it is...
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  • Can Hub for 3,500 lb Axles be Used on Axles With Different Weight Rating
  • That is a good question but the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 3,500-lb Axles # AKIHUB-545-35-PG-K can absolutely be used on your axle rated for less than 3,000 lbs. What matters is that you have the same # L68149 inner bearing, # L44649 outer bearing and # 58846 grease seal because this means the hub will fit your spindle. These are most often found on 3,500 lb axles but can be used on an axle with less capacity with no issues.
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  • How Many of the etrailer.com Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Are Needed for a Dual Axle Trailer
  • The part # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K comes with 1 trailer hub and drum assembly (along with the bearings, grease cap, and lug nuts for mounting a trailer wheel). So for your dual axle trailer you'll need to change the quantity to 4. I have attached an installation video that you can reference but please also ensure that your current bearings match the # L68149 and # L44649 bearings, and that your grease seal has an inner diameter of 1.719" like the seal # 58846 that comes with this assembly.
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  • What is Difference Between Bearing # 168255TB and # 171255TB
  • We recommend using digital calipers to measure the spindle. If you did not do so, you might try that. The part number 171255 that you referenced actually gives the measurements of the seal that you need. 171 means 1.71 inches inner diameter and 255 mean outer diameter of 2.55 inches which is what the # 58846 has. So part # 168255TB will have an inner diameter of 1.68 and an outer diameter of 2.55, so it should give you a slightly better seal. We usually recommend you use the exact...
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  • What Is The Difference In A Grease Seal Labeled 171255TB and A Seal Labeled 171255VB
  • On grease seals the TB means a low pressure, double lip seal with a spring and the VB means a non-pressure, single lip seal without a spring. The seal you will need for the part # 171255TB is the TruRyde Grease Seals-Double Lip, part # RG06-050. This is a double lip seal with a low pressure spring.
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  • Replacement Grease seal
  • In order to find a seal that will work you will need to take a few measurements. You will need the outside diameter of the seal plus the outside diameter of the surface that the seal will ride on. Check out the picture I attached that shows what you will need to measure. You will want to use a dial caliper, # PTW80157, to get exact measurements. The 5009 National number did not cross to any of the seals that we carry, so the measurements will help us in finding a replacement.
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Info for this part was:

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Video Edited:
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