1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 1.719 Inch I.D.
  6. 2.565 Inch O.D.
Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles

Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles

Item # 58846
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps 58846 - 1.719 Inch I.D. - etrailer
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Replacement grease seal. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles part number 58846 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 58846

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.719 Inch I.D.
  • 2.565 Inch O.D.
  • etrailer

Replacement grease seal. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in.


Features:

  • Replaces worn or damaged grease seals to help maintain optimal performance of bearings
  • Helps keep moisture out and grease in with double-lip design


Specs:

  • Inner diameter: 1.719"
  • Outer diameter: 2.565"
  • Quantity: 1 seal


Inner Diameter (ID)
Outer Diameter (OD)
Applications
1.719 2.565 3,500-lb Axles



DL-172-03 AxleTek Double Lip Grease Seal 2.565" Outer Diameter - 3,500-lb axles

Same as 158800, GS-1719DL, 58846, and 171255





Video of Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles - 58846

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (168 Customer Reviews)

Replacement grease seal. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in.

- 58846
by:

Works and Fits as it should, No leaking after a year 602933


Comments
After a year, I have had no issues. I use the trailer quite frequently with 3k plus weight
Tyler F - 02/07/2020

66384

- 58846
by:

Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend 737998



- 58846
by:

Quick shipping . Haven't installed yet but have no doubts they will work. 634163



- 58846
by:

I have use etrailer twice now and it's all been good. They are really good people to work with. I only have good things to say about them. I will use them whenever I can, 717981



- 58846
by:

I bought seals and brake shoes.Unfortunatly,one of The brake shoes in the box was a duplicate.Left and right side shoes are noticably different.I notified etrailer and they expedited a new set and e mailed me a return label.Other than having to drop it off at a UPS store it wasn't that big of an inconvenience.Parts fit and work well.I would use etrailer moving forward. 649588



- 58846
by:

I recently ordered grease seals and electric brake assemblies from etrailer.com. The service was fantastic and the products were delivered very quickly. The on-line videos of how to do the job right were extremely helpful. I make a lot of on-line purchases and etrailer has consistently been the very best at responsiveness, ease of use, getting the order right, prompt delivery and helpful on line services. I don't often provide feedback for online purchases, but etrailer is the best and deserved some of my time to write this review. 63249



- 58846
by:

Good product - quick shipping - great pricing and customer service! 90714


Comments
Everything is still great...trailer is still rolling along.
Rusty O - 01/20/2015

8762

- 58846
by:

Perfect seal for the job. 645324



- 58846
by:

Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed. 572866



- 58846
by:

Recently bought an antique boat in Wisconsin and towed it to St. Louis. I knew the trailer tires were more than 20 years old. So when I went to get the boat on its trailer, I took new tires, mounted on new wheels, purchased from ettrailer. I checked wheel bearing temperatures during the trip -- after greasing them via Bearing Buddies. Made the trip OK, but have now cleaned and packed the bearings on both wheels. Of course, I needed two new seals. I really like shopping at etrailer. Saves me time and the website is full of helpful, valuable info. 309921



- 58846
by:

I bought this kit last year to replaced the existing brakes, bearings and seals on our 2010 Jayco 23B. We went on eight different camping trips this year and they work great! We noticed a huge improvement when applying the brakes to slow down or stopping the camper altogether. I highly recommend this kit because they were easy to install and the noticed stopping power.Please feel free to ask me any questions regarding this kit. 565943



- 58846
by:

Information on site was outstanding allowing easy selection of the correct bearing seal. Once I made the selection a confirmation was sent out via email and included videos on how to perform bearing removal, repacking and installation of the seal. Item received the product within 4 days after ordering. 401409



- 58846
by:

Exactly what I needed with an easy to navigate web page and speedy shipping. The bearings come loose in a bag which is mildly concerning however no damage could really happen given the bags are sealed and padded. I like the option of getting a complete bearing kit so that I can have everything I could possibly need on hand. 738286



- 58846
by:

Excellent time on receiving orders 728723



- 58846
by:

Worked as expected 727989



- 58846
by:

This boat trailer came with Tie-Down brake components, and I believe they were bought out by Dexter. Trying to find these specific part numbers on-line was virtually impossible. Thanks to bits and pieces I could glean from this website I made a calculated guess for proper replacement components -- including these grease seals and clips where you would usually use cotter pins. Best I can tell everything seems to be working correctly. The seals at least fit into the drums without difficulty. The boat is now owned by a friend and I guess I'll learn next year if the seals actually keep water out of the axle and bearings. 724607



- 58846
by:

etrailer is by far the best!! 716121



- 58846
by:

Great product, fast shipping and super easy install. 714835



- 58846
by:

Super fast shipping, and quality item. Worked great!! I will definitely be a return customer. 714834



- 58846
by:

My experience has been that etrailer kicks some serious butt from its website to the products and right on up to my front door with expedient delivery and solid packaging. The seals I ordered were the perfect replacement part and seemed to be of quality. As Arnie used to say “I’ll be back”. 708394



- 58846
by:

Great Deal 714653



- 58846
by:

etrailer gave me great service: prompt communication, shipping, and on time delivery for original manufacturer replacement parts. I'm very pleased and will be a returning customer. 713570



- 58846
by:

Fast delivery, great customer service. 706090



- 58846
by:

Fits my 1988 Shorelander 3500 lb. single axel trailer with Dexter 8-247 hub. Arrived when expected. 699455



- 58846
by:

PRODUCT FITS CORRECTLY, FAST SHIPPING, RECEIVED IN 2 DYAS 695372


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Grease Seal Needed for a Dexter 4,400 lb Axle
    The seal for your Dexter 4,400 lb axle is part # 58846 which we also have in a pack of 2 listed as part # RG06-050 these have an inner diameter of 1.719" and an outer diameter of 2.565".
    view full answer...
  • Installing Grease Seal on Trailer Spindle
    The grease seal included with the hub and drum assembly you purchased from us is # 58846. It has an inner diameter of 1.719 inches. Use a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to measure the diameter of your spindle where the seal sits. You do want the seal to be snug on the spindle. Not tight enough that you can't get it on but you don't want a gap to allow grease to escape either.
    view full answer...
  • What Is The Difference In A Grease Seal Labeled 171255TB and A Seal Labeled 171255VB
    On grease seals the TB means a low pressure, double lip seal with a spring and the VB means a non-pressure, single lip seal without a spring. The seal you will need for the part # 171255TB is the TruRyde Grease Seals-Double Lip, part # RG06-050. This is a double lip seal with a low pressure spring.
    view full answer...
  • Seal With Dimensions to Replace 171255UC
    Seal 171255UC has an inner diameter of 1.719 inches and outer diameter of 2.565 inches. A seal that has those dimensions would actually be # 58846. I've added a link to a video review of this seal for you to take a look at.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease seal
    In order to find a seal that will work you will need to take a few measurements. You will need the outside diameter of the seal plus the outside diameter of the surface that the seal will ride on. Check out the picture I attached that shows what you will need to measure. You will want to use a dial caliper, # PTW80157, to get exact measurements. The 5009 National number did not cross to any of the seals that we carry, so the measurements will help us in finding a replacement.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine Which Grease Seal is Needed for Trailer Hub
    Grease seals are very specific which means you will need some very specific information in order to get the one that fits. The ID tag info you gave is the axle capacity and tire size, but I can help you figure out just how to determine the correct grease seal, as well as bearings if you are looking for replacements for your hub. Doing this does require you to take apart your current hub assembly and look at the bearings and seal; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the...
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Dexter Hub with 8-247 Stamped On it
    Sounds like you have the trailer hub part # 8-247-50UC3-EZ installed on your trailer. That means for a grease seal you would need the part # RG06-050.
    view full answer...
  • Is Grease Seal 58846 Double Lip
    Yes, the Grease Seal part # 58846 that you referenced is double lip seal.
    view full answer...
  • Does Grease Seal # 58846 Replace Dexter # 010-004-00 and How Many Are Included
    Grease Seal, # 58846, is a replacement for the Dexter 010-004-00 part number. To double check, you can measure your existing seal. If it has an inner diameter of 1.719 inches and an outer diameter of 2.565 inches, then this is the correct seal. The 58846 single lip seal is sold in quantities of 1. The double lip version, # RG06-050, is sold in pairs.
    view full answer...
  • Measuring to Identify Bearings and Seals for 1948 Palace Royale Travel Trailer
    I checked a bearing/seal cross reference to find the dimensions of your parts UT2585, BT1380 and 5009 but I was not able to get confirmed dimensions for these bearings and seal. So what you will want to do is take precise measurements of your trailer's spindles and rear hub bore to allow matching up to currently available parts. If you refer to the linked photo you will see where to measure your spindles and hub. For your grease seal, use the spindle dimensions for the seal's inner...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Double-Lip Grease Seals to Replace AL-KO K363276
    You can use the linked page for all grease seals to select a replacement for your AL-KO 363276 double-lip seal. You can simply click on the nearest inner diameter, 1.719-inches, and the matching outer diameter of 2.565-inches. You then see that seal kit # RG06-050, a set of two double-lip seals, will be a suitable replacement.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Seal for Part 17146
    The replacement seal for 17146 is Grease Seal - Double Lip, part # 58846. This is a single lip grease seal with an inner diameter of 1.719 inches and an outer diameter of 2.565 inches that is intended for 3500-lb axles. It is sold as single units. I was unable to find a cross reference for TCS PO6887.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement for National 473317 Grease Seal
    According to my research the correct replacement for your National 473317 grease seal is Grease Seal # 168233 which has a 1.688" inner diameter and 2.332" outer diameter. The # 58846 grease seal that comes with Bearing Kit # BK2-100 has a 1.719" inner diameter and 2.565" outer diameter.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Trailer Hub Seal with 1.685 Inch Inner Diameter
    If the outer diameter of your old seals is 2.561 inches then you could use seal # 168255TB. It has an inner diameter of 1.687 inches which is the closest match we have to your 1.685 measurement.
    view full answer...
  • Which grease seals for 2005 Hi Lo Travel Trailer with Torflex Axles
    Since you have 10 x 2.25 brakes on Torflex axles, your inner bearing would then be part # L68149. Your outer bearing is part # L44649. The Grease Seal, part # 58846, fits these bearings. You will need two for each axle. If you have EZ-lube axles or bearing buddies, like Bearing Buddy II Model 1980A (Pair) with Auto Check, part # BB1980A, you could also use the Double Lip Seal, part # RG06-050, which comes in a two-pack. You will need one pack for each axle.
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Replacement Trailer Hub Seals for Tow Dolly
    You will need to measure the diameter of your spindle where the seal rides and the inner diameter of where the seal installs in your hub to pick out the correct replacement. Once you get the dimensions you need check out the link I attached that shows all the seals we carry.
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  • What is the Correct Seal for a Trailer with Outer Bearing L44649 and Inner Bearings L68149
    You are correct, if you have outer L44649 bearings and inner L68149, then you would use 10-19 seals, # RG06-050. The inner diameter of these seals is 1.719 inches and the outer diameter is 2.565 inches. I have included a couple of videos on replacing bearings that you may find helpful.
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  • Replacement Grease Seals and Grease Caps for 3,500 Pound Trailer Axle
    Based on the 3,500 pound axle on your trailer, the correct replacement grease seal should be the etrailer.com # 58846 that has an inner diameter of 1.719 inches and an outer diameter of 2.565 inches. You can measure your spindle to verify this will fit. Then for grease caps, if you are looking for Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors, I recommend # BB1980A-SS. These have a stainless steel construction and will fit 1.980 inch hub bores, which are typically found on 3,500 pound axles. If...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings and Grease Seal for a Trailer
    We don't have the information, but I can tell you how to find it. You will need to take off a hub on your trailer and pull out both bearings. There should be a numbers stamped on either of them. Or, you can use a dial or digital caliper to measure the spindle where the bearings ride and with that info we can determine what you would need. The same process would be for the seal as well. You will want to measure the spindle surface where the seal rides as well as the inner bore of the...
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  • Replacement Trailer Seal for 171255TC
    We have a TruRyde brand that will fit as a replacement for what you have. For a pair, you would need # RG06-050. Or for one double lip seal, # 58846. To be sure, you can check the measurements of your seal. The measurements will have to be as accurate as possible so I recommend using a set of calipers like the # PTW80157. The inner diameter of the TruRyde seal is 1.719 inches. The outer diameter is 2.565 inches.
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  • How to Find the Correct Seal for Trailer
    Since we do not have parts lists for individual years, makes and models of trailer, in order to find the correct seal, you can take apart your hub assembly and use a digital caliper such as # 301-17068 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the seal rides. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where you need to measure. For example, Seal # 58846 has a 1.719" inner diameter while Seal # 10-9 has an inner diameter that measures 1.500". I have added...
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  • Double Lip Grease Seal To Match L68149 and L44649 Bearings
    It sounds like you have a 3,500 lb axle based on the L68149 inner bearing and L44649 outer bearing you said you had therefore, the Double Lip Grease Seal part # 58846 which measures 1.719" inner diameter and 2.565" outer diameter is what you need.
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  • How to Pick Out Grease Seal for Trailer/Dolly
    I'll need more info from you though to pick out the correct seal. I need to know the outer diameter of your spindle where the seal rides and the diameter of your hub where the seal slips into. With that info I can pick you out the correct seal or you can follow the link I attached that has all of the seals we carry.
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  • Recommended Grease Seal Replacement for Dexter 8-248 Hub
    I have a replacement for you; our # 58846 grease seal is actually a double lip seal like you wanted, and if that is the seal number you're finding on the back of your existing seal, you are able to use that as the replacement. For reference, this seal has a 1.719" inner diameter and 2.565" outer diameter. The 10-19 seal you mentioned isn't one that we carry, but if you actually meant the # 10-9, you wouldn't be able to use that seal since it is much smaller with a 1.5" inner diameter and...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Grease Seal
    If you sent a picture it didn't make it through, but I can still help you find a grease seal. To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we carry. You will need to select...
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  • How to Pick Out a Replacement Grease Seal for a Trailer Hub
    I can help you pick out a grease seal, but the number you listed doesn't cross reference with anything we offer. To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we carry. You...
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  • Grease Seal Replacement Recommendation with Inner Diameter 1.865 and Outer Diameter 2.565
    Based on the dimensions you listed you would want the Grease Seal Set part # BB60002.
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  • How to Pick Out Grease Seals for a Trailer Hub
    To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we carry. You will need to select your inner and outer diameter from the filters on the page and the correct seals will be listed.
    view full answer...
  • Compatibility of a # TMC21333VB grease seal with replacemnet seal, # 10-1
    Yes, we have the Grease seal you will need for your 2002 Load Auto Carrier. Grease Seal item # GS-2125DL is the proper replacement seal for your trailer with TMC21333VB seals.
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  • Bearing and/or Seal Kit Recommendation for Dexter 3,500 lb Axle Hub
    For a 3,500 lb Dexter hub the correct bearing kit would be the part # BK2-100. For just the seal you would want the part # RG06-050. I attached an install video for this kit for you to check out as well.
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Video Edited:
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