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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 2.565 Inch O.D.
  6. 1.719 Inch I.D.
Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles

Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles

Item # 58846
Our Price: $6.52
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.07 lbs
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Replacement grease seal. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles part number 58846 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 58846

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.565 Inch O.D.
  • 1.719 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer

Replacement grease seal. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in.


  • Replaces worn or damaged grease seals to help maintain optimal performance of bearings
  • Helps keep moisture out and grease in with double-lip design


  • Inner diameter: 1.719"
  • Outer diameter: 2.565"
  • Quantity: 1 seal

Inner Diameter (ID)
Outer Diameter (OD)
1.719 2.565 3,500-lb Axles

DL-172-03 AxleTek Double Lip Grease Seal 2.565" Outer Diameter - 3,500-lb axles

Same as 158800, GS-1719DL, 10-19, and 171255

Video of Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles - 58846

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (468 Customer Reviews)

Replacement grease seal. Double-lip design helps keep water out and grease in.


Last year, when packing the wheel bearings, I re-used the old seals. I will use your new seals this April and let you know how they fit, and my general opinion of the quality of the wheel bearing seals.


Bearings are working fine two repacks and 15,000 miles third repack will be at 18,000



Using bearing buddies on my application so l can go the whole season without repacking. I do check the service on bearing buddies every few thousand miles.


Repacked bearings and replaced seals before completing a 9,000 mile trip this summer. No issues at all with these seals.


I placed a order. The hubs was the right one. The oil seals where the wrong size wrong ones where shipped. Talked to a person on the phone they are sending the right ones , would be nice if they could be overnighted to me


Fit in my trailer hubs perfect and sealed things up after cleaning and repacking the bearings. A little challenge removing the olds ones but once that is done putting in the new ones went very smoothly.


Recently bought an antique boat in Wisconsin and towed it to St. Louis. I knew the trailer tires were more than 20 years old. So when I went to get the boat on its trailer, I took new tires, mounted on new wheels, purchased from ettrailer. I checked wheel bearing temperatures during the trip -- after greasing them via Bearing Buddies. Made the trip OK, but have now cleaned and packed the bearings on both wheels. Of course, I needed two new seals. I really like shopping at etrailer. Saves me time and the website is full of helpful, valuable info.


Sales associate Arthur was very helpful in determining which grease seals I would need for my trailer. I don't have a lit of experience and he was very patient which was greatly appreciated.


This rating is for the packaging only, shipped very poorly with no protection. four sets of bearings thrown in a box,
Had to return. (photo enclosed).


Great quality, as described!!!


i think you better find a better way to send these items way to long to get here a week really


the last few years I've been ordering all my trailer parts from etrailer I always get the right parts and I get them in a limited amount of time normally half of the time they say so I'm satisfied with that and I always have a good fit


Far superior to factory units. The rubber seal has 2x the surface area and a spring ring to help maintain good contact. Price was 50% less than Tractor Supply.


Product was delivered on time. Product fit in the drum like the original product that I removed it. it was what I was looking for.


Orders always come in complete and very timely. I use them all the time. Great company to work with.


I bought these double lip seals for my small Jayco trailer and they worked so well when we purchased the “new to us” fifth wheel I ordered two complete sets so I have them on hand.


Quick service and straight forward install on these brakes last fall. I took it for a drive to adjust the brakes but do not believe they are set to optimum settings, as yet. So far this year I have been unable to take it back out on the road due to other commitments, except to move it to a new storage facility. Hopefully next year I will get out on the road and set up the brakes better. If not I'll have to manually set them. Otherwise they appear to work as they should.


got me the right seal right away


The grease seals I purchased from etrailer are excellent! Great product that etrailer researched for me regarding my classic flatbottom boat trailer and getting the proper size. Thanks again.



Excellent product! Thanks to the great parts representatives handling hard to get those parts! Great prices too!


The seals were perfect fit Thanks


I had a hard time finding out exactly what seals to order for my Grand Design RV. But I was able to order the correct parts with the help of eTrailer. Will definitely go to them again for my next part needs.


worked great.


Product shipped was exactly what was ordered, and received in timely manner.


The seal fit in the hubs with a slight press fit. Time will tell how well they will hold up. So far no issues.


Arrived on time. It's a grease seal. It seals the spindle. Fit perfectly, what more could I ask for? Always excellent service. My go-to place.


This boat trailer came with Tie-Down brake components, and I believe they were bought out by Dexter.
Trying to find these specific part numbers on-line was virtually impossible.
Thanks to bits and pieces I could glean from this website I made a calculated guess for proper replacement components -- including these grease seals and clips where you would usually use cotter pins.

Best I can tell everything seems to be working correctly. The seals at least fit into the drums without difficulty. The boat is now owned by a friend and I guess I'll learn next year if the seals actually keep water out of the axle and bearings.

Show More Reviews

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  • Troubleshooting Uneven Brake Magnet Wear on New Brake Assemblies
    The first thing you need to make sure is that your new brakes are broken-in correctly. This involves a few steps: 1. Secure and jack-up your trailer 2. Remove adjuster plug and locate adjustment screw 3. Spin wheel and start adjusting 4. "Break-in" the new brakes I went ahead and attached a super helpful article that goes more in detail of these 4 steps. If you are confident that you've adjusted your brakes correctly, one of the issues with non-even brake magnet activation is a bad/loose...
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  • Grease Seals for Boat Trailer
    Are you absolutely certain those are the measurements? You may want to use a digital caliper and measure again just to be certain, because we have a seal that is similar, part # 168233 which has a 2.332 inch outer diameter and 1.688 inch inner diameter and the inner diameter on a seal is hard to measure because the rubber has some give to it. There is also seal # 58846, which has a 1.719 inch inner diameter but a 2.55 inch outer diameter, though nothing with both of the measurements you have.
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  • Replacement Hub Grease Seal for 2018 Jayco Jay Feather 23RBM
    For your 2018 Jayco Jay Feather 23 RBM the correct replacement grease seal would be the part # 58846.
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  • Grease Seal that Fits Trailer 84 Spindle that Measures 1.71 inch
    On a number 84 spindle the component that fits on the 1.71 inch diameter section of the spindle would be the seal and would be part # 58846.
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