1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 1.500 Inch I.D.
  6. 1.987 Inch O.D
Grease Seals (pair)

Grease Seals (pair)

Item # RG06-020
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Our Price: $7.55
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Grease Seals Pair
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Seals (pair) part number RG06-020 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-020

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 1.500 Inch I.D.
  • 1.987 Inch O.D
  • TruRyde


Trailer Hub Grease Seals

  • (2) 10-60 Seals per package
  • Double lip seal

I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
1.500 1.987 E-Z Lube 2,000 lbs

Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
010-060-00
15192TB
-
AD2267EO
533409



RG06-020 Grease Seals (pair)

Dexter part number K71-301-00







Video of Grease Seals (pair)

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seals (pair) - RG06-020

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (162 Customer Reviews)


- RG06-020
by:

Seals were a good fit. No problems as of the date of this review. Q&A Explanations in purchasing information was helpful in deciding to go with these seals vs. another seal. Price was very good. 512885



- RG06-020
by:

E trailer did a fantastic job. Before order: Technical support / help was excellent. Goal, conversion of a 1998 Floe snowmobile trailer from surge to electric brakes. Problem, due to time and corrosion, I could only supply partial part numbers, spindle diameter. etrailer did a fantastic job, researching, and getting me the correct part numbers, so I could order. Julie did a great job. She was very timely, communicated clearly and honestly, and just “kept me in the loop”. I received the order came on the projected date, complete and undamaged. Excellent. I would highly recommend etrailer, for your part needs. 439113



- RG06-020
by:

Grease seals arrived on time but were all of one size. I had ordered two each of two different sizes. A phone call was all it took to get the missing seals on the way and they arrived within the next two days, no charge, no returning the extra seals. So a mistake was made but promptly and professionally made right, no hassle. My past experiences with etrailer have all been positive. Highly recommended!!! 600107



- RG06-020
by:

These are really great seals. They have a "coiled spring" inside the seal. I have used them before. They work great. I am using these with EZ-Lube hubs. So, when pumping grease slowly into the hub, I spin the wheel so the grease has somewhere to go and does not blow the seal. If you pull the brake drums for inspection, you should change the seal, even if they still look good. I will order these again. 599793



- RG06-020
by:

The grease seals were exactly as ordered. The cost was less than anyone in my area even with shipping. Plus no one had them available in stock. The order went out the first business day and was received in 2 days. I installed them today. Will definitely use etrailer again. 545944



- RG06-020
by:

These seals fit great! Nice and tight fit on my snowmobile trailer and no signs of sleeping grease! :) 566608


Comments
Worked well up until I sold the trailer. No issues!
Dan - 09/19/2019

61311

- RG06-020
by:

my salesman nick is great, we seem to be on the same page when ordering parts. i have built 5 trailers now and the last order was perfect. so far so good, thanks 738585



- RG06-020
by:

Bearing set seams to appear good quality. Packed well for shipping. If any concerns after install i will edit review. 716327



- RG06-020
by:

I have been using etrailer for years and years. They have everything you need and are very helpful when you need advice Keep up the good work 716307



- RG06-020
by:

A drop-in replacement at a fair price. 708234



- RG06-020
by:

Just like a true OME part...fit was gre at 699621



- RG06-020
by:

Put them in today, ordered a couple of things, spoke to 2 different women who were very helpfull and knowledgeable, pleasure to deal with! Fast shipping!! 697447



- RG06-020
by:

Excellent product shipped fast, accurate, and fit without question. Great transaction. 697144



- RG06-020
by:

Perfect fit, fast shipping, good price. 696035



- RG06-020
by:

The correct parts (which I can't find locally) with prompt service and shipping. What more could you ask for! Thanks again 688867



- RG06-020
by:

Seals worked perfect on My boat trailer, good quality, good price.... 670073



- RG06-020
by:

Good fit, good seal. Installation using a block of wood between them and the mallet left them in great shape. 665984



- RG06-020
by:

Perfect fit 663011



- RG06-020
by:

Perfect fit. 663010



- RG06-020
by:

The seals worked perfectly thanks forcall y’all help 649850



- RG06-020
by:

Ashley D., a customer service representative, is an asset to etrailer. Great communication skills and very pleasant to speak with. Thank you. 636475



- RG06-020
by:

Every time I need parts and help etrailer has been great with getting me exactly what I need at about half the cost of anyone else! 609855



- RG06-020
by:

Work great. 588418



- RG06-020
by:

Hi George The bearings and seals fit perfectly and the installation was quite easy. Haven’t had a chance to use my trailer this season. Had a lost summer due to medical reasons. Will give it a good test in the spring. 572268



- RG06-020
by:

These seals were put on my 5x8 trailer and have worked very well. I received them quickly and the price was right. All in all after a year still a great buy and product! I use my trailer to carry my Powered Paraglider and I rely on it working and getting me to my destination. 557846


Comments
Working great no issues!
Bob - 08/25/2019

60390
25
162
Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Hub for E-Z Lube Spindle on Boat Trailer
    In order to determine if hub assembly 8-258-50UC1-EZ will work for you, first know that this assembly is for EZ Lube spindles that require a grease seal with a 1-1/2" inner diameter such as # RG06-020. You are also going to want to remove the hub and take a look at the bearing numbers to make sure your inner and outer bearings are # L44649. Normally that would be enough, but since you sanded the spindle, I also recommend you use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 and measure the spindle...
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  • Picking Out Replacement Grease Seals for Chicago Rawhide 16754
    To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper like # PTW80157 and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. We've heard your dimensions are 1.688 X 2.562 X 0.25 which means the seal you'd need is the part # 168255TB. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we...
    view full answer...
  • Difference Between Grease Seal 10-9 and 10-60
    You are correct, a double lip seal is better than a single lip. All things being equal I always recommend a double lip when available. Especially when the application is a boat trailer that will get submerged in water. The other difference between the two seals you mentioned is the that the part # RG06-020 includes a quantity of two of the 10-60 seals and the # 10-9 is only one seal.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seals with 1.500-Inch I.D. and 1.987-Inch O.D.
    Two grease seals match closely to your required inner and outer diameters. The linked page displays parts # RG06-020 (a pair of seals) and # 10-9 (a single seal). Both have an inner diameter of 1.500-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing Kit for Trailer with L44649 Inner and Outer Bearings and Seal 15192TB
    Based on the bearing and seal numbers you have provided the correct bearing kit for you is # BK1-150. It has inner/outer bearings L44649 and a 10-60 seal. The 10-60 seal, # RG06-020, that comes in the kit is the same as the Transcom brand 15192TB that you referenced. Be sure to check the hubs for any indication of damage. If the bearings have black discoloration that is a sign they were overheated and there could be other damage that is not obvious to other components.
    view full answer...
  • Correct Grease Seal for Idler Hub Assembly TA88545-2
    The proper grease seal for idler hub assembly # TA88545-2 is the 10-60 seal, which is # RG06-020.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Trailer to Replace 15192TC
    Based on the number and dimensions you listed the correct grease seal you need is the part # RG06-020 as this cross references to what you have and matches the dimensions.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for a Dexter Hub with 8-91A Stamped on Back
    If the spindle that was on your trailer axle previously had 8-91A stamped on the back of it your spindle should require inner and outer bearings of # L44649 like you used. The part # 8-91-05UC1 that you referenced would be an exact replacement. Grease seal # 10-9 is the correct replacement seal also. It has an inner diameter of 1.5 inch and an outer diameter of 1.987. The double lip version of this that is sold in pairs is our part # RG06-020. # 10-9 is sold individually. Double...
    view full answer...
  • Availability of Bearing Kit with Grease Seal Included For Trailer with L44649 Bearing
    A trailer hub assembly will use an inner bearing and race, an outer bearing and race, a grease seal, a cotter pin, and either a dust cap or a bearing protector. I am including a picture that will show where the part numbers are located and the areas that you will need to measure if your parts do not have part numbers etched on them. There is only one grease seal on the spindle and it is located on the rear of the hub assembly (see picture). Looking up the grease seal number CR12427...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Spindle Grease Seal Set for L44649 Bearings and 1.980 Hub Bore
    I tried to find your previous order with us to see what you already have but I was unable to. Regardless, the correct seal set for your # L44649 bearings with a hub bore of 1.980 is # RG06-020. These seals are neoprene with greased stainless steel rings like you're looking for.
    view full answer...
  • Cross Referencing 10-9 Replacement Grease Seals for Aliner Trailer
    The key for selecting a replacement grease seal is the reference number, in this case # 10-9. The manufacturer code does not matter. This is a single-lip seal with an inner diameter of 1.500-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches. It is compatible as a replacement for the following other manufacturers' parts: Dexter 010-009-00 Transcom 15191VB National 474276 NOK AR2266FO Chicago Rawhide 14840 If you prefer a double-lip seal in this same size use # RG06-020 which is sold...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Hub Assembly For Snowmobile Trailer With Dexter EZ-Lube Axle
    The hub assembly we offer for a 2,200-lb EZ-Lube axle is part # 8-259-50UC1-EZ. This hub has a zinc plating that makes it great for snowmobile trailers or boat trailers. The Inner bearing and race, outer bearing and race, grease seal, grease cap, and galvanized lug nuts are included. The # L44649 inner and outer bearings have a 1.063 inch inner diameter. The # RG06-020 seal has a 1.5 inch inner diameter and 1.987 inch outer diameter. The bearing kit that will work with this hub is...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Grease Seals to Order for a 2002 EZ Loader 21 Foot Boat Trailer
    To determine the correct grease seal for your trailer spindle and hub, we need to know the inner bearing number installed on the trailer or the dimensions of the seal surface on the spindle and the seal surface in the back of the hub. This will require removing one of the hubs and the grease seal in that hub. If you cannot find the inner bearing part number, you will need a precise measuring tool like a dial caliper to get measurements accurate enough to select the correct grease seals. Boat...
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  • What Size Grease Seal And Dust Cap is Needed on a 3,500 Lbs. Axle With L44649 Outer Bearing
    The size seal you will need will depend on the part number of your inner bearing. If the outer bearing part number is L44649 and the inner bearing part number is also L44649, then you will use a TruRyde Seals, # RG06-020. If the outer bearing part number is L44649 and the inner bearing part number is L68149, then it will be TruRyde Seals, # RG06-050. The size grease cap you will need is 1.986 inches. For the standard spindle you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-020....
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  • Need Replacement 61-Inch x 1-1/2-Inch Galvanized Axle for 1999 NuWay Fold-Up Trailer
    I was able to find an online reference to the axle part number you provided, NW27195, but this part is no longer offered by the original manufacturer and no substitute has been officially authorized. We do offer 60-inch axles rated for 2000-lbs. All can be seen on the link provided. For example, part # 20440I-EZ-60 uses EZ-Lube spindles and idler hubs with a 4-on-4 bolt pattern and is suited for 8-12-inch wheels. This axle is intended for use with bearing # L44649, race # L44610 and...
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  • Using Double Lip Seals in Place of Single Lip when Using bearing Buddies
    We will need to use a double lip seal when using Bearing Buddies or a similar product. A single lip seal cannot withstand the pressure and you will have a blowout. For a pair of double lip seals use # RG06-020. These are the same size as your 10-9 seals except they are double lip and not single lip.
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  • Dexter Hub 8-248 Bearing and Seal Replacement Recomendations
    I am surprised you have a # 10-40 hub seal. The Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-247-50UC3 that you said you have would take a part # 58846 seal or # RG06-020. And then for bearing part # L68149 for the inner bearing, part # L44649 as outer bearing. For races part # L68111 for inner, and # L44610 for outer. If you do have different bearings than what I listed you don't have to order the bearings all as a kit. You could piece together all the parts you need by ordering them individually.
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  • Measuring for Correct Grease Seals for Carry-On Trailer with 2K Axle
    Grease seals are offered in so many similar sizes that it is best to measure precisely, with a digital caliper like # PTW80157. The seal itself can easily change dimensions, from aging of the inside rubber ring and from the forces required to remove it from the hub. So, it is best to measure the spindles, rather than the old seal, for the seal's inner diameter since the spindles are unlikely to have their dimensions change at all. For the seal's outer diameter you want to measure the...
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  • Availability of a Replacement Grease Seal with 1.5 Inch Inner Diameter and 1.980 Outer Diameter
    The closest grease seals that we carry to the dimensions you have specified are Grease Seals, # RG06-020, for a double lip seal pair, or # 10-9 for 1 seal. These have an inner diameter of 1.5 inches and an outer diameter of 1.987 inches. That is only .007 inches larger than the 1.980 you have indicated. To find the exact replacement, I would need to know the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the metal of the bearings. I have included a video below showing how to remove, inspect,...
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  • Double Lip Trailer Hub Grease Seal for Bearing # L44649
    It sounds like you need a 10-60 seal, part # RG06-020. It has a 1.5 inch innder diameter and 1.987 outer diameter. It also fits a BTR spindle which bearing # L44649 is both the inner and outer for. If you need the complete bearing kit use part # BK1-150.
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  • How Much Grease To Use when Installing Bearing Buddies on a 1997 Jayco Pop Up Camper
    Your Bearing Buddy instructions are correct. When installing bearing protectors on a trailer hub, you will want to fill the hub with as much grease as possible, so that you do not have to pump all that grease into the hub with the grease gun after installing the bearings and seals. This also helps to prevent pressure build up in the hub and blow out of the seal in the back of the hub. When using a bearing protector you should always use a double lip seal, like part # RG06-020, which...
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  • Can Bearing Buddies Be Used on Utility Trailer
    Although bearing buddies are primarily meant for boat or PWC trailers, you can certainly use them on a utility trailer. To choose the correct diameter Bearing Buddy, measure the outside diameter of your grease cap the inside diameter of your hub bore. This measurement will be the correct Bearing Buddy size for your hubs. The measurement needs to be pretty precise, using a digital caliper works best. Even if you are using bearing protectors, you should still pull the hubs every now and...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Grease Seal Recommendation for a 2004 Jayco Baja 10Z
    From the research I did it looks like the bearings of your 2004 Quest Baja 10Z are both # L44649. Usually we can't find this information since trailer manufacturers don't list this info, but since this is a very popular camper I was able to find it. For grease seals you would want the part # RG06-020.
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  • Difference Between Grease Seals with 1.5000 Inner Diameter
    We do have a few different seals that match the 1.500" diameter of your spindle. You will just need to determine which of these seals has an outer diameter that matches with your hub bore. Seal part # 10-9 (also available in a 2 pack as part # RG06-020) has an outer diameter of 1.987" and is the most common. Seal part # SL150 has an outer diameter of 2.332" and is more common on agricultural applications. Attached are some pictures that cross-reference these seals with other known seals...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Hubs for Dexter Axle 133058683
    The correct bearings you need for your axle is part # L44649 which is used for both the inner and outer. If you also need the grease seal then you will want to use part # RG06-020. These bearings and grease seal are also available as a kit using part # BK1-150. I was able to verify this info using the serial number off of your Dexter axle. If you need new idler hubs then you can use part # AKIHUB-440-2-2K if you have a 4 on 4" bolt pattern or part # AKIHUB-545-2-2K if you have a 5 on...
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  • New Grease Seal Leaked After Installation of Bearing Buddies with Hub Kit # 8-248-50UC1
    Thank you for your recent purchase from etrailer. The grease seal included with this hub kit has an inner diameter of 1.500-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches. This seal should be fully seated into the rear bore of the hub so that it is flush with the back hub surface. The grease seal leak you experienced could come from the seal not being fully seated into the hub, or it could, as you noted, be a result of the over-filling of your Bearing Buddies. If this hub does not have...
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  • Replacement Grease Seals for EZ-Loader Axle
    There is not a bearing buddy inner seal that is the correct size for your application. I recommend using a little Coca-Cola to clean up that rust (it may seem out of the norm but it works due to the carbonation and acidity) and then wipe it clean. This should remove any rust issue and then you can use a little brake cleaner and then new seals # RG06-020 to give you a proper seal.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Jenny M

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