Grease Seal - Double Lip - 2.250" ID - 3.376" OD - GS-2250DL

Grease Seal - Double Lip - 2.250" ID - 3.376" OD - GS-2250DL

Item # GS-2250DL

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - GS-2250DL
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Trailer Hub Grease Seal Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Seal - Double Lip - 2.250" ID - 3.376" OD - GS-2250DL part number GS-2250DL can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - GS-2250DL

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.250 Inch I.D.
  • 3.376 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde

Trailer Hub Grease Seal


Features:

  • Double lip seal
    • Retains the grease inside the hub
    • Excludes water and road grime better than single lip seals
  • Replacement for single lip seal 42385


I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
2.250 3.376 #42 Spindle


Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
Lippert
010-054-00
22333VB
442109
AF3135G1
22550
122088

Double Lip vs. Single Lip Seal

This double lip seal provides better protection against moisture and impurities than its single lip counterpart and improves retention of grease inside your trailer hubs.



GS2250DL Double Lip Grease Seal - Replaces Single Seal 42385







Video of Grease Seal - Double Lip - 2.250" ID - 3.376" OD - GS-2250DL


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - Double Lip - 2.250" ID - 3.376" OD - GS-2250DL - GS-2250DL

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (220 Customer Reviews)

Trailer Hub Grease Seal

- GS-2250DL
by:

Exactly the correct part. Brand new parts at a fraction of the price. Very happy with ETrailer. 568589



- GS-2250DL
by:

These grease seals are perfect for boat trailers. Shipping was fast and the product is exactly as described. 570544



- GS-2250DL
by:

Great customer service, items were packaged very well, fit was perfect, all said, I am very happy with the purchase and would highly recommend etrailer ! I also would encourage future buyers for any RV braking products to watch the videos provided by e-trailer, I did a complete brake job with all new parts for one third the prices I was quoted from RV repair shops! Thanks Brian for an easy transaction! 461823



- GS-2250DL
by:

Fit my Dexter 12 inch brakes perfect! 170778


Comments

Perfect no troubles !

Elliot P - 01/23/2016

16543

- GS-2250DL
by:

The grease seals I ordered were perfect fit just as described. Better quality than the seals that were on my 5th wheel trailer. Delivery was within 3 days and customer service was excellent! The etrailer website product video clips are very helpful as well. 480228



- GS-2250DL
by:

I received the seals pretty quick! They were significantly less than my local providers! One local source, $43+, here, under $10 delivered! I also ordered complete brake assemblies with self adjusters! Free Freight! 12x2, all 4 under $192.00 delivered! I would sure order again from here and especially with Katie M. She was awesome and made me thankful I called her! My brake assemblies were here in two days! I have told 2 people about etrailer.com so far and am proud to praise them! Thank You! 255407


Comments

Excellent! Couldnt be more satisfied!

GregS - 06/01/2017

24475

- GS-2250DL
by:

Seals were excellent quality, easy to replace. With 5 boat trailers and three horse trailers, maintenance is on going.. etrailer is a excellent company to deal with and they stand by what they sell.. it is my one stop shop for my trailer bearing and brake needs. 554875



- GS-2250DL
by:

I am familiar with seals and I think this is one of the best trailer seals out there to purchase. It is a double lip spring loaded seal, which I could not find from any of the US manufacture's. I like to use National Seals made in the US, but they only had a single lip seal. I think personally these are a better buy and a better built seal from the research I have done. Great seal for all your trailer needs. You can't go wrong. I am using these seals on a triple axle, 50 ft long living quarters horse trailer. The trailer weights 18,000 lbs empty and I trust these will do the job. 524229



- GS-2250DL
by:

Originally wanted to just repack wheel bearings, so I pulled a wheel to find out which Grease Seals to order. Found brake shoes worn a lot. Because the price on a complete assembly was sooo reasonable, I ordered 4 assemblies plus seals. Turns out the other three (original) brake assemblies had blown grease seals. What a mess! Not to mention my experience of poor to no braking power! So glad I ordered new, complete brake assemblies. No mess, no fuss. Just pull old assembly, cut wires, replace new assembly, splice wires- Done! BTW - one of the new assemblies had a crack in the shoe - probably from being banged in shipping. etrailer replaced it right away and I returned the cracked one. What GREAT service! I have attached a pic of one of the old assemblies w the blown grease seal so you can see how reasonable it is to just buy and replace the whole thing vs. all the clean up that you would need to do if you did just the shoes. 513032



- GS-2250DL
by:

E trailer was great to deal with. Service was good, received quick enough. The wheel Seals are Seals. They keep grease in.. 716651



- GS-2250DL
by:

AAAAAA++++++ 704277



- GS-2250DL
by:

Great service fast delivery. This is the second delivery and very happy. 703132



- GS-2250DL
by:

excellent 702946



- GS-2250DL
by:

About a quarter the price of my local parts house and fast shipping. Thanks! 697559



- GS-2250DL
by:

The seals are good quality and fare pri ced. 694971



- GS-2250DL
by:

These are well made and exact fit for our 2006 Bighorn 3055RL 5th wheel RV. I always keep a set of 4 at all times for spares. 694727



- GS-2250DL
by:

Good quality, great price, good service 691936



- GS-2250DL
by:

I order all my trailer needs through etrailer, never had a problem. 691038



- GS-2250DL
by:

Exactly what I needed. Etrailer is grea t! 682112



- GS-2250DL
by:

I had my doubts about whether these seals were the correct ones for my trailer, since they seemed so large. However, etrailer assured me that they were the correct ones and true to their word, the seals worked great. Very pleased with the product and the sales personnel at e-trailer. 681718



- GS-2250DL
by:

AAAA++++ 679110



- GS-2250DL
by:

The parts fits perfectly And work great 674308



- GS-2250DL
by:

Fit perfect 672898



- GS-2250DL
by:

Greg was extremely helpful and professional. He made sure that I ordered the correct parts and everything was delivered on time. Thanks for the great service. New loyal customer 674145



- GS-2250DL
by:

Wow,these were $37 at the local parts store! Perfect! 668567



- GS-2250DL
by:

I decided to do some long needed maintenance on my old trailer and figured I would have a hard time finding parts, but etrailer had everything i needed. Fast shipping, too! I will be using etrailer for all my trailering needs. 667890



- GS-2250DL
by:

Product was as described. Fit perfectly. 662812



- GS-2250DL
by:

Seals performed perfectly for the past year. Plan on re-ordering this part again in the future. 659716



- GS-2250DL
by:

Bought these seals as spares to use on the road as needed. Have not had to use them! 658345



- GS-2250DL
by:

Exact replacement of inner bearings seal at a great price. 650015



- GS-2250DL
by:

What I ordered and on time. 649845



- GS-2250DL
by:

Good product that fits the application and does what its designed to do. Excellent (5 star) product if it keep doing it long term. I'll order the same product next time I repack the bearings. 649765



- GS-2250DL
by:

Needed wheel bearings and grease seals for boat trailer. Had exactly what I needed for a good price. We're shipped promptly. Will use this company again. 649723



- GS-2250DL
by:

Parts were shipped in a box of bolts and metal shackles with no protection from one another. Lip seal was damaged as a result. 637251



- GS-2250DL
by:

Parts fit first time every time , quick delivery as advertised 636005



- GS-2250DL
by:

Well-made product. I only use my 5th wheel (1998 Kit) a couple times a year, so I can't speak to how it holds up under heavy use. 635239



- GS-2250DL
by:

Been a year without any problems, perfect fit. Then again, I used this on a utility trailer I use on the ranch, so does not get many miles per year. 628884



- GS-2250DL
by:

Matched exactly to the original equipment. Easy installation great product. 617708



- GS-2250DL
by:

great service Parts were there the next day Will be back when I need parts 611418



- GS-2250DL
by:

Arrived within a few days. Good quality and a perfect fit. 606094



- GS-2250DL
by:

Fast shipping and received in good condition, have not installed these yet, but looks like they will fit and work like they are supposed to. 601914



- GS-2250DL
by:

just what I was looking for. 600742



- GS-2250DL
by:

The seals fit my 2014 Keystone Cougar Xlite fifth wheel just fine. 597248



- GS-2250DL
by:

Product came on time as is as expected. Thank you! 596256



- GS-2250DL
by:

Fits great crazy fast shipping 593909



- GS-2250DL
by:

The timing was great and just what I needed , thanks, 585516



- GS-2250DL
by:

Seals are a good replacement to use when cleaning and packing bearings. I replace them every couple of years to avoid grease getting on the brakes. 585368



- GS-2250DL
by:

Solid product so far for my boat traile r. 584292



- GS-2250DL
by:

fit perfect 583885



- GS-2250DL
by:

Exactly what was needed to complete task. Tracking and product was awesome. 582909


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Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 7k Axle
  • In order to choose the correct replacement bearing kit of your 7,000 lb axle, you will need to know both the inner and outer bearing numbers, as well as the inner diameter of the grease seal, which you can find using a digital caliper. The most common bearings on 7k axles are inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 14125A. If those are your bearing numbers and the inner diameter of your grease seal measures 2.125 inches, you would want bearing kit # BK3-210, which includes the bearings,...
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  • Bearings and Races for 7,000 Pound Trailer Axle
  • The most common bearings and seals for a 7,000 pound axle are # 25580 inner bearing, # 14125A outer bearing, # 25520 inner race and # 14276 outer race. The grease seal can vary, and will usually either be the # GS-2250DL, which has a 2.250 inch inner diameter and 3.376 outer diameter, or # GS2125DL with a 2.125 inch inner diameter and 3.376 inch outer diameter. We do also offer complete bearing kits for this axle. For the GS-2250DL grease seal, you can use the Kit # BK3-200. For the...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Double-Lip Seal for Lippert Part 122088 with 2.250" ID and 3.376" OD
  • We do offer double-lip grease seals from TruRyde that have a 2.250" ID and a 3.376" OD. We have part # GS-2250DL for just one seals or part # RG06-070 for two seals.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Seal for National Seal or Timken Seal 472920
  • National seal 472920 has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and outer diameter of 3.375. For a replacement, you will want Grease Seal - Double Lip # GS-2250DL or oil seal # 10-63.
    view full answer...

  • Will Water Damage Magnets if Electric Brakes are Installed on Boat Trailer
  • Electric brakes, like the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Assembly # 23-458 that you referenced, are actually becoming more and more common on boat trailers. They used to not be so common because water and electricity don't play nice together, but if you unplug the trailer before backing it into the water you will be just fine. Any trailer components that are submerged under water will wear quicker than parts that are not, but if you make sure to hose down your boat trailer...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hub for Tie Down Engineering 81091
  • Yes, the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly # 8-213-51UC1-EZ will work as a direct replacement for your Tie Down Engineering 81091 hub. Based on my research your 81091 hub is rated to be used on 6,000 lb axles, has a 6 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern, uses Inner Bearing # 25580, Outer Bearing # 15123 and Grease Seal # GS-2250DL. This is also what the galvanized Dexter Hub # 8-213-51UC1-EZ uses so it will work as a replacement.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hubs With Bearings 25580 and LM67048 and Brakes Which Fit
  • To replace your idler hubs with a hub and drum for electric brakes, what you can do is use Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-201-5UC3 and replace its grease seal with # GS-2250DL, which has the same outer diameter as your current seal so it will work for you. This hub has a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern so finding wheels to fit should be no problem. The idler hub assembly would be # 8-213-5UC1. The hub and drum takes 12" brake assemblies, and the electric brakes that will work are #...
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  • Idler Hubs to Fit a Mobile Home Axle on a Gooseneck Trailer with Bearings 25580 and LM67048
  • We do have some idler hubs, without the drums, that fit bearings # 25580 and # LM67048. All of them have a 6 lug bolt pattern. We have two, part # 8-213-5UC1 for standard axles and # 8-213-5UC1-EZ for E-Z Lube axles, that use grease seals 10-10, part # RG06-090 and have a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern. The other is an agricultural hub and is more likely what fits your mobile home axles. It's a 6 on 6 bolt pattern and uses the same bearings but instead fits a 42385 grease seal, part # GS-2250DL....
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  • How to Determine the Replacement Hubs for a 2002 Magic Tilt Trailer
  • To determine what the correct replacement hubs are for your Magic Tilt trailer there is a little bit of information that we will need. We will need to find out inner diameter of both the Inner and Outer Bearings as well as the inner diameter of the Grease Seal. To ensure that your current wheels are compatible with the hub that you get you will need to make sure that you also have the appropriate bolt pattern on your hub. If you remove one of your current hubs you should be able to see...
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  • Locating Replacement Grease Seal for Dexter 6,000 Pound Axles on Grand Design 337RLS
  • There are a couple possible grease seal sizes for the hubs on your Grand Design 6,000 pound Dexter axles, so the only sure way to determine the right one will be to pull one the hub assemblies and take a look at the existing seal. There should be a number stamped on the seal itself identifying its size, but if it's too worn you can also measure the outer diameter of the spindle where it sits (or the diameter of the seal if it's in good enough condition). Most likely you will need either...
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  • Bearings and Grease Seals Needed for Kodiak Stainless Steel 6-on-5-1/2 Trailer Hub KH42655S
  • Kodiak Stainless Steel 6-on-5-1/2 Trailer Hub # KH42655S does not include but uses inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 15123. Races # 25520 and # 15245 ARE included with the hub.
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  • Bearing Kit for Lippert 5200-lb Axle 121066
  • Your 5200-lb Lippert axle 121066 uses inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # LM67048 and grease seal # GS-2250DL. For all of these you can use kit # BK3-300. I also recommend bearing packer tool # ALL647646 for a cleaner method of packing the new bearings with high-temperature bearing grease such as # L11380. Often a block of wood along with a rubber mallet are handy when installing a new seal into the rear bore of your hub. These items allow you to install the seal with less risk...
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  • Grease Seal to Replace Transcom Seal 22333VB in 5th Wheel Hub
  • For a replacement seal for part 22333VB you can use part # GS-2250DL which is a direct replacement for Transcom seal 22333VB. We offer this same seal as a pair as part # RG06-070.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Lippert 5200-lb Axle
  • The correct grease seal for the 5200-lb-rated Lippert axle on your camper trailer is part # GS-2250DL. I confirmed with Lippert. For a complete bearing/seal kit you can use part # BK3-300.
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  • Will Double Lip Grease Seal or Unitized Oil Seal do Better Job of Retaining Grease in Hubs
  • The TruRyde Grease Seal # GS-2250DL referenced in your question is a double lip seal that will do a great job at retaining the grease inside your hubs. They will also exclude water and road grime better than a standard single lip seal. The Redline Unitized Oil Seal # 10-63 you also referenced will do a nice job at providing leak protection with the dual action seal as well. The inner part on the seal will stay fixed on the spindle while the outer casing rotates with the hub. I like...
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  • What is the Correct Axle Grease Seal for the Dexter 12 X 2 Brake Hub and Drum
  • It sounds like you have selected the correct grease seal, # GS-2250DL, for your spindle and Dexter hub. The 3.376 outer diameter matches your hub and because the rubber inner part of the seal has to create a tight seal, to keep grease in and road grime out, the slightly smaller diameter is most likely correct. I am sure that if you measured the seal bearing surface, see photo, on your spindle you would get the proper measurement of 2.25 inches. If you are using bearing protectors or...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for a 5,200 Pound EZ Lube Trailer Axle
  • On your EZ Lube 5,200 pound trailer axle the inner bearing is going to be # 25580. The outer bearing is likely going to be # 14125A. With these bearings you could have one of two seal possibilities. Bearing kit # BK3-200 comes the bearings above and with a seal that has a 2-1/4 inch inner diameter. The other option is bearing kit # BK3-210. It also has the above bearings but the seal in it is 2-1/8 inches inner diameter. You can determine which one you will need by measuring either...
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  • Replacement Brakes and Hub Assemblies for Lippert 5,200 Pound Axle
  • For your trailer the drums you need are # 8-201-5. They're designed to fit bearings # 25580 and # LM67048 with the 2-1/4 inch seal # GS-2250DL. For brakes I recommend # AKEBRK-7-SA. Both the left and right sides are included. They are side specific so you'll want to pay attention to the labels when installing. They're self-adjusting brakes so they'll need to be adjusted when you install them and then never again. The grease cap to fit the hubs is # RG04-080 if you have E-Z lube...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Dexter 6K Axle with Hub Having 3.375-Inch Diameter Hub Bore
  • The linked page displays all grease seals with an outer diameter of 3.375-inches. These have inner diameters of 2.125-, 2.250- and 2.375-inches. All are double-lip seals. For example, part # GS-2250DL is a double-lip seal with an inner diameter of 2.250-inches.
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  • Grease Seals for AL-KO T52 Axle with #42 Spindles and Bearings 25580 and 15123
  • Your AL-KO T-52 axle has # 42 spindles that use hub assemblies with a # 25580 inner bearing and # 15123 outer bearing. The grease seal most often associated with this bearing set is part # GS-2250DL for 1 seal or # RG06-070 for a pair.
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  • Difference Between Trailer Grease Seal Part Numbers RG06-070 and GS-2250DL
  • The difference between the two part numbers you mentioned is the quantity of seals that comes with the part number. Part # RG06-070 is for a pair of seals whereas the part # GS-2250DL is for an individual seal.
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  • Disc Brake Kit for a Grand Design Travel Trailer with 5,000 Pound Lippert Axles
  • You likely have 5,200 pound de-rated axles. You can check the bearing numbers stamped into the sides of the bearings in one of the hubs on the trailer now to help determine what will fit. Most likely they use inner bearing 25580 and outer bearing 15123. For a disc brake kit that uses these bearings I recommend # K2HR526DKG. This is a kit for one axle so if you need brakes on both axles you would need 2 kits. For bearings you would need 4 of inner bearing # 25580, 4 of outer bearing...
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  • Grease Seals Needed to Replace Dexter Grease Seal # 010-036-00 on a Trailer
  • The Dexter grease seal, number 010-036-00, has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches, which makes it compatible with the 10-36 Double Lip Grease Seal, # RG06-070, and the # GS-2250DL Grease Seal. If your trailer has an Easy Lube axle with a grease zerk in the end of the spindle, or you use bearing protectors with a grease zerk in them you would want to use the 10-36 Double Lip Grease Seal, # RG06-070. I have added a video and an article on bearing...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for Dexter 010-054-00 Seal
  • We have the grease seal you are looking for. Our part number # GS-2250DL is the same as the Dexter 010-054-00 that you have. The inner diameter of this seal is 2.25 and the outer is 3.376 inches.
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  • Looking for Grease Seal to Replace Al-Ko # 568862 Seal on a 5200 Lb Al-Ko Axle
  • It took a bit of cross-referencing, but I found that the 10-10 grease seal, part # RG06-090 is the correct replacement for the Al-Ko 568862 seals. You can confirm this by checking the ID of the hub bore where the seal would sit. The ID should be about 3.376 inches. The 10-10 seal has an ID of 2.125 and an OD of 3.376 inches.
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  • Grease Seal Needed with 2.25 ID and 3.37 OD for 8K Axle
  • Oil bath seals to tend to be a little more pricey because they have to keep a liquid in whereas grease seals don't have to be "liquid proof". For grease seals that replace your current oil bath seals with a 2.25" ID and 3.37" OD we have part # GS-2250DL (2.250" ID and 3.376" OD) for one seal or part # RG06-070 for 2 of these seals. Be sure that when changing from oil bath to grease that you clean off all of the oil from your assembly. You have to do this when switching from grease...
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  • Trailer Hub Seal 10-36 Recommendation
  • The 10-36 seal is part # RG06-070 which is a pair of seals. This seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 and an outer diameter of 3.376. You would want to verify your seal's outer diameter first before you order this seal. For an individual seal you would want part # GS-2250DL. This seal has the closest dimensions to the ones you listed.
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for 5,200 lb EZ Lube Hub
  • A 5,200 lb EZ lube hub spindle is going to take the part # GS-2250DL for a grease seal. This seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches.
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for a Fifth Wheel Trailer with Part Number 212337313tb Seal
  • You will need to do some measuring but I believe you have it right. My information shows that, for bearing # 14125-a 25580, you have 2 options for seals: # GS-2250DL. The difference in the seals is the inside diameter of the seal and will either be 2.25 inches or 2.125 inches. The outside diameter of the seal , 3.376 inches, will be the same on both of these seals.
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  • Availability of a Replacement Grease Seal to Replace C/R 22558 Seals on an Older 5th Wheel Trailer
  • I believe we do have grease seals for your trailer. The Grease Seals 10-36, item # RG06-070, most likely are the correct seals for your trailer. The information I have is that the C/R 22558 seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.371 inches. The Grease Seals 10-36, item # RG06-070, have a inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches, this is a double lip seal. The Grease Seal, item # GS-2250DL, would also work for your trailer. The...
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