Grease Seal

Grease Seal

Item # 10-9

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Our Price: $5.63

Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Shipping Weight: 0.03 lbs

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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Seal part number 10-9 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (76)
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 10-9

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Single Lip
  • 1.500 Inch I.D.
  • 1.987 Inch O.D
  • TruRyde


Trailer Hub Grease Seal
  • For double lip seal

I.D. O.D. Use With:
1.500 1.987 BTR Spindles


Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter # Transcom # National # NOK # Chicago Rawhide #
010-009-00 15191VB 474276 AR2266FO 14840



GS-1500DL Grease Seal

Dexter part number K71-301-00







Video of Grease Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - 10-9

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (76 Customer Reviews)


- 10-9
by:

I would like to thank you for all you help matching up the bearings and seal will be back as I ready my camper. BTW it is a Flagestaff by Forest River 2009. Thank you 650035



- 10-9
by:

I am a firm believer in Murphy's Law and plan for things to go wrong. I have kept a full bearing set for my Dexter #9 in the tool box of my teardrop since I first got it. I have yet to need them but I am ready. I had to order a second set of seals to replace the original set that came with the axle kit. Why? Some unfortunate soul came up to me in a campground and since we had a similar Little Guy/NuCamp trailer, asked me "I bet you don"t have a spare set of bearing seals?" He lost a bearing and even though he found new bearings and races - at 5 times the cost, but no one in the little town we were in had any idea of the seal number. I gave him the part numbers from my cross ref sheet and he left to make some calls. A week to get them! We looked them up, ordered me a new set and sold them for the replacement cost. We keep in touch, he made it home from Calif to N. Carolina and has made several trips since with no issues. 643230



- 10-9
by:

I have been using etrailer for years and years. They have everything you need and are very helpful when you need advice Keep up the good work 715061



- 10-9
by:

So far seals are holding up perfectly. 681600



- 10-9
by:

Very good heavier than most low price. 649563



- 10-9
by:

Seemed to fit and work as ordered 617453



- 10-9
by:

Good 577873



- 10-9
by:

Got my package it was broken open during shipping nothing left in it. Called them and it was fixed ASAP. Great service!! 576904



- 10-9
by:

great product worked perfect, fast ship ping 573092



- 10-9
by:

This is the exact part I needed and it came just on time. In general, you have the parts I need, the prices are good and youalways deliver on time. This is why I continue to order from etrailer. 561638



- 10-9
by:

The product is fine. The review is more about finding these beasts. I went to 5 stores in my local area to no avail. I went online and entered the bearing SN# and only one company had a link to grease seal. I was never particular about where I brought online. Every time I needed trailer parts, this was the place. I'd suggest all trailer parts shoppers just start here. 557911



- 10-9
by:

Exactly what I needed. Will buy again. 539380



- 10-9
by:

Excellent 519697



- 10-9
by:

Fast an easy, thank you 498665



- 10-9
by:

speedy delivery and just as advertised. - thanks etrailer team! 493101



- 10-9
by:

Ordered to have extra seals on hand. Same seal as in the kit. 487442



- 10-9
by:

Great product. Good quality. 477010



- 10-9
by:

its a bearing seal, what can i say, etrailer service and pricing excellent as always 467601



- 10-9
by:

Grease seals arrived in good condition, good quality. No issues. 447908



- 10-9
by:

Tommy did a great job helping me get my brakes fixed thank you 439960



- 10-9
by:

Meh 438836



- 10-9
by:

Great customer service and prices! Appreciate it! 437126



- 10-9
by:

Needed these on short notice to get the trailer ready for Sturgis. Shipping was fast and ordering was easy. No stress. 409898



- 10-9
by:

The grease seals work perfect. As always etrailer.com is a great place to order all your trailer products. Easy ordering and fast delivery. 404505



- 10-9
by:

Seals work good, I had to leave them hang out of the hub about a 1/16", to make sure they would make it past the grease hole on the spindle , that is the reason for the new seals. Hoping that will solve the issue of the grease getting on the inside of the wheel. 391802



- 10-9
by:

Fast shipping and exactly what I ordered. Will order again. 390200



- 10-9
by:

Fit well 378993



- 10-9
by:

Haven't installed the brake magnet yet but looks to be an exact match to the old one. As for the seals I ordered, I learned not to trust my owners manual. It listed a part number to get for seal replacement so I ordered them and etrailer delivered them very efficiently only to find out the i.d. was not a fit. I should have checked the dimensions before ordering. I have found other discrepancies in my Aliner manual so it's not to be relied on. Thanks for fast service, etrailer. 377789



- 10-9
by:

Great price, fast shipping. 370951


Comments

All is well

Mike S - 04/24/2018

37586

- 10-9
by:

The right part at a great price and delivered extremely fast 350348



- 10-9
by:

All goid 349020



- 10-9
by:

Great seal and fast shipping 340269



- 10-9
by:

ordered 2 grease seal on the phone Pat was very helpful & made sure I would get the right product The seals came and fit perfect Thanks Pat 327768



- 10-9
by:

Great service and free shipping!!! 320580



- 10-9
by:

Exact fit for my new axle replacement. Fast shipping and web site was very easy to place your order. I will use this company again. 310993


Comments

After a year still working great.

Mark A - 10/26/2017

29986

- 10-9
by:

3000 trailer miles later everything still great 303875



- 10-9
by:

seal still seals after 1 year. Thanks for the follow-up. 302197



- 10-9
by:

direct replacement for a Dexter axle. good price 301949



- 10-9
by:

Customer support for finding replacement bearing, races and grease seals for a 1973 Apache popup trailer were spot on. All items fit perfectly, delivery was quick and customer support excellent. Thanks to all! Bearing LM11949 Race LM11910 Bearing L44649 Race L44610 Grease Seal - 10-9 292293



- 10-9
by:

Orders twice with varied product needs for utility trailer, bearings,seals, lights, wiring and hub. All good price and all just right 288006



- 10-9
by:

Perfect match. went together with ease 276680


Comments

still working great after a year.

Jason W - 07/27/2017

26652

- 10-9
by:

Exactly the part I needed 276217


Comments

works as expected

Jim - 07/25/2017

26596

- 10-9
by:

Great price and shipped fast. I couldnt find the right size grease seals in my area and i needed them before i went on my trip. I will be ordering from etrailer.com again for all my trailer needs. Thanks etrailer.com 275131



- 10-9
by:

Parts were just what I needed. My axle owners manual did not have the part number information but etrailers website enabled me to figure out what I needed. Great website with dimensions and technical advice. Thanks! 271209



- 10-9
by:

product works great excellent for my seal replacement on my trailer axle 260411



- 10-9
by:

Fit perfect on my 1994 Jayco Jay series pop up camper.That takes the same bearing on both sides of the hub L44649 making the seal a hard one to find locally.Great price after ... wanted more for one.Was well worth the few day wait. 252391



- 10-9
by:

Seal is exactly what I wanted. The service was outstanding I ordered the seals and one hour later they said it was shipped, you guys are GREAT................ Hankster 243002



- 10-9
by:

Bought a bearing set made for my trailer from Tractor Supply Co. but the seal was the wrong size. Etrailer.com bailed me out! less that 48 hours from order to delivery and my trailer is back up an running. Thanks etrailer.com! 232194



- 10-9
by:

The seals fit perfect. They are a lot better than the factory ones that came with the axle. 217529



- 10-9
by:

As described. Fast shipping!!! 203317


50
76
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Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Dexter 8-258 Inner Grease Seal Recommendation
  • For a Dexter hub 8-258 the correct seal is the part # 10-9.
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  • Replacement Bearing and Seal Kit for 2004 Kendon Motorcycle Trailer
  • My research indicates that grease seal part 125255UC has an outer diameter of 1.980-inches and this correlates with the hubs that use bearing # L44649. The seal part most often used with inner/outer bearing L44649 is seal part # 10-9 which has an inner diameter of 1.50-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches so bearing kit # BK1-150 that you referenced should do it. You can confirm the seal size by measuring a spindle at the point where the seal rides (point B in the linked image)...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Grease Seal Number for Dexter 8-257 Drum Hub
  • The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly for 2,000-lb Axles - 7" - 5 on 4-1/2 # 8-257-5UC3 will use a # 10-9 seal that is 1.5 inches inner diameter and 1.987 inches outer diameter. Crossreference numbers are: Dexter 010-009-00 K71-301-00 Transcom 15191VB National 474276\ NOK AR2266FO Chicago Rawhide 14840
    view full answer...

  • Difference Between Grease Seal 10-9 and 10-60
  • You are correct, a double lip seal is better than a single lip. All things being equal I always recommend a double lip when available. Especially when the application is a boat trailer that will get submerged in water. The other difference between the two seals you mentioned is the that the part # RG06-020 includes a quantity of two of the 10-60 seals and the # 10-9 is only one seal.
    view full answer...

  • Grease Seals with 1.500-Inch I.D. and 1.987-Inch O.D.
  • Two grease seals match closely to your required inner and outer diameters. The linked page displays parts # RG06-020 (a pair of seals) and # 10-9 (a single seal). Both have an inner diameter of 1.500-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches.
    view full answer...

  • Grease Seal for 1982 EZ Loader Trailer
  • Could you get me the dimensions of the oil seal? And it's for sure an oil seal and not a grease seal correct?
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  • 2003 Coleman Fleetwood Utah Replacement Brake Assemblies and Bearings
  • From previous customers with your 2003 Coleman Fleetwood we've been able to determine that your trailer has 2,200 lb Dexter axles. The bearings you would need are # L44649 for the inner and outer and then for a seal # 10-9. For brake assemblies you would need part # 23-47 for the left and part # 23-48 for the right. These are manual adjust assemblies but there isn't a self adjusting set that fits your size. I know you didn't mention it, but if you needed to hub drums you would need...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement for Dexter 8-91A Hub
  • I did some research and there is no direct replacement for your hub due to how old it is. So in order to find the correct replacement, you will need to know the bearing numbers of your current hub because the information you gave is irrelevant. If you are unable to find them, you would need to use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where you need to measure. There...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for EZ Lube Hubs on #9 Torflex Axle
  • Based on my research the Torflex #9 axle (2,000-2,200 pound capacity) features spindles that use the # L44649 inner and outer bearing. This bearing has an inner diameter of 1.063 inches. The grease seal used on the spindle has an inner diameter of 1.50 inches like the TruRyde # 10-9. For a complete kit that includes the bearings, grease seal, cotter pin, and EZ Lube spindle washer you can use part # BK1-150.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Brake Assemblies, Bearings, Seal and Hub for 2002 Coleman Fleetwood Pop Up
  • Coleman/Fleetwood uses Dexter axles so I can help you pick out the parts you need for your 2,200 lb Dexter axle. The bearings you would need are # L44649 for the inner and outer and then for a seal # 10-9. For brake assemblies you would need part # 23-47 for the left and part # 23-48 for the right. I know you didn't mention it, but if you needed to hub drums you would need part # 8-173-16UC3.
    view full answer...

  • Cross Referencing 10-9 Replacement Grease Seals for Aliner Trailer
  • The key for selecting a replacement grease seal is the reference number, in this case # 10-9. The manufacturer code does not matter. This is a single-lip seal with an inner diameter of 1.500-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches. It is compatible as a replacement for the following other manufacturers' parts: Dexter 010-009-00 Transcom 15191VB National 474276 NOK AR2266FO Chicago Rawhide 14840 If you prefer a double-lip seal in this same size use # RG06-020 which is sold...
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  • Video Showing How to Install a Grease Seal on a Trailer Hub
  • I think the best way to explain how to install a grease seal like # 10-9 is to take a look at the video I have linked. Go to about the 6 minute, 10 second mark. At this point in the video, our installer begins to install the seal in the back of the hub.
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  • Grease Seal for Rettig Utility Trailer with Inner Bearing L44549
  • Typically the numbers on a grease seal will be stamped onto the inner edge of the seal. If you are not able to see these numbers, you can also measure the inner and outer diameters using a digital caliper like the Performance Tool # PTW80157. Sometimes it is hard to measure a used seal, so measuring the seal seat on the spindle and the hub's inner bore is another option and may give a better indication of what the inner and outer diameter of the seal needs to be. We do not currently...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for a Dexter Hub with 8-91A Stamped on Back
  • If the spindle that was on your trailer axle previously had 8-91A stamped on the back of it your spindle should require inner and outer bearings of # L44649 like you used. The part # 8-91-05UC1 that you referenced would be an exact replacement. Grease seal # 10-9 is the correct replacement seal also. It has an inner diameter of 1.5 inch and an outer diameter of 1.987. The double lip version of this that is sold in pairs is our part # RG06-020. # 10-9 is sold individually. Double...
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  • Availability of 4 on 4 inch Bolt Pattern Hubs for a Spindle with 1 inch Inner and outer Bearings
  • Yes, we have the Trailer Hub Assembly for 2,000 lbs Axles with 4 on 4 inch bolt pattern, and 1 inch inside diameter bearings, item # AKIHUB-440-2-1K. You should check the existing bearing part numbers on your trailer to be sure that they are the # L44643 inner and outer bearings. Your seal part number should be # 34823, with an inner seal dimension of 1.249 inches. The hub you referenced has 1-1/16 inch inside diameter bearings, and would not work on a 1 inch spindle. The bearings for...
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  • Recommended Bearings, Seals, Lug Nuts for 1995 Jayco Popup Camper
  • If your races are # L44610, which they almost certainly are, you will want the following parts: Bearings: Inner bearing: # L44649 Outer bearing: # L44649 Grease seal: # 10-9 Outer diameter: 1.987" Inner diameter: 1.5" Grease cap: 1.986" But just to make sure you may want to measure your spindle to be sure bearings will fit and check races and hub for their part number. I have included a picture that shows the measurements needed...
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  • What Bearings And Hubs Are Needed On A Dexter Axle On A 1996 Coleman Pop-Up Camper
  • The difference in the Dexter Hub, # 8-258-5UC1, and the Dexter Hub, # 8-258BTUC1, is the inner bearing dimensions and the inner seal dimensions. Here are the dimensions for each hub. Dexter Hub, # 8-258-5UC1 inner/outer bearing # L44649 Inner bearing dimension is 1.063 inches seal # 10-9 Inner seal dimension is 1.500 inches Dexter Hub, # 8-258BTUC1 inner/outer bearing # L44643 Inner bearing dimension is 1.00 inches seal # 34823 Inner seal dimension is 1.249 inches If...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for the Timbren Axle Less System part # A12WS545
  • The correct grease seal you would need for your Timbren Axle Less System part # A12WS545 that you have is the # 10-9.
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  • Is Dexter Axle Trailer Hub & Drum Assembly # 8-173-16UC3 Recommended for 1993 Starcraft
  • The Dexter Axle Trailer Hub & Drum Assembly # 8-173-16UC3 is a compatible fit for the Dexter axle on your 1993 Starcraft so long as the weight falls at or below the product weight capacity of 2000 lbs and is compatible with your existing bearings. This assembly works only with 1-1/4 inch brake shoes, not 1-3/4 inch shoes and has a 4 on 4 inch bolt pattern. I have included a link to a video review of this item. The other two items you referenced, the Dexter Axle 7 Inch Brake Assembly...
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  • Grease Seal # 10-9 Recommendation for a Axle with Chicago Rawhide # 14840 Seals
  • Yes, this Grease Seal, part # 10-9, will fit your axles that have Chicago Rawhide # 14840. There is actually a cross reference guide on the product page for the # 10-9.
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  • Availability of a Replacement Grease Seal with 1.5 Inch Inner Diameter and 1.980 Outer Diameter
  • The closest grease seals that we carry to the dimensions you have specified are Grease Seals, # RG06-020, for a double lip seal pair, or # 10-9 for 1 seal. These have an inner diameter of 1.5 inches and an outer diameter of 1.987 inches. That is only .007 inches larger than the 1.980 you have indicated. To find the exact replacement, I would need to know the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the metal of the bearings. I have included a video below showing how to remove, inspect,...
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  • Recommended Hub Assembly for L44649 Inner/Outer Bearings and Grease Seal with 1.25 Inner Diameter
  • If your existing hubs use the # L44649 inner and outer bearings, which do match up to the spindle measurements you provided, then the common grease seal that is used is indeed the # 10-9, which has an inner diameter of 1.500 inches. With that being said, we do have one idler hub assembly available that uses the # L44649 inner and outer bearing, along with a grease seal that features a 1.249 inner diameter. This is with the CE Smith Trailer Hub Assembly # CE13311. This is actually a...
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  • What is Correct Replacement Grease Seal for Bearing # L44649
  • Thank you for providing the part number from your existing grease seal, part 16074-224. Based on my research I found that part # 10-9 is an equivalent replacement part. I have also linked a helpful article and video concerning bearings and seals.
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  • Measuring for Correct Grease Seals for Carry-On Trailer with 2K Axle
  • Grease seals are offered in so many similar sizes that it is best to measure precisely, with a digital caliper like # PTW80157. The seal itself can easily change dimensions, from aging of the inside rubber ring and from the forces required to remove it from the hub. So, it is best to measure the spindles, rather than the old seal, for the seal's inner diameter since the spindles are unlikely to have their dimensions change at all. For the seal's outer diameter you want to measure the...
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for a Trailer Spindle with 1.5 in Inner Diameter
  • If your customers are blowing out their grease seals most likely that is due to too much grease being pushed into the hub. Using a Bearing Buddy Seal like the part # BB60005 would give you a grease seal that is more reinforced than a standard one, but a regular seal would also work just fine. The # BB60005 has an inner diameter of 1.375 inches and an outer diameter of 1.980. Since you are looking for a seal that has an inner diameter of 1.5 in you would want the part # 10-9 if the outer...
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  • Replacement Hub And Bearings Races And Seals On Trailer With 12 Inch Wheels
  • We do have a hub that uses part # L44610 for both the inner and outer race. The hub we offer is designed for 2,000 and 2,200 lb axles and will work with wheels that range from 8 to 12 inch diameter. This part number is # 8-259-50. The bolt pattern for this hub is 5 on 4-1/2. The bearings you can use for this hub are either part # L44643 or part # L44649. You will need to use a precision instrument like a digital caliper to measure the spindle where the bearings are used. If the...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal Recommendation for a 16074-224
  • I did a little digging on your grease seal number and it looks like the 16074-224 has an inner diameter of 1.5 inches and an outer diameter of 1.987 so the correct part number you would need is the # 10-9.
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  • Difference Between Grease Seals with 1.5000 Inner Diameter
  • We do have a few different seals that match the 1.500" diameter of your spindle. You will just need to determine which of these seals has an outer diameter that matches with your hub bore. Seal part # 10-9 (also available in a 2 pack as part # RG06-020) has an outer diameter of 1.987" and is the most common. Seal part # SL150 has an outer diameter of 2.332" and is more common on agricultural applications. Attached are some pictures that cross-reference these seals with other known seals...
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  • How To Determine The Correct Hub Assembly For A 1995 EZ-Loader Trailer
  • The easiest way to determine what hub assembly you will need for your axle is to get the part numbers of the inner and outer bearings and the grease seal part number from the hub assembly that is on the trailer now. If you do not have the old bearings, you will need to measure the spindle on your trailer to determine the size bearings that you will need, and what hub assembly will work. Trailer hub assemblies are not a universal fit. You will also want to check the hub journal length...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Jenny M
Updated by:
Matthew E

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