1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Single Lip
  5. 1.500 Inch I.D.
  6. 1.987 Inch O.D
Grease Seal

Grease Seal

Item # 10-9
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Seal part number 10-9 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 10-9

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Single Lip
  • 1.500 Inch I.D.
  • 1.987 Inch O.D
  • TruRyde


Trailer Hub Grease Seal
  • For double lip seal

I.D. O.D. Use With:
1.500 1.987 BTR Spindles


Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter # Transcom # National # NOK # Chicago Rawhide #
010-009-00 15191VB 474276 AR2266FO 14840



GS-1500DL Grease Seal

Dexter part number K71-301-00





Video of Grease Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Seal - 10-9

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (77 Customer Reviews)


- 10-9
by:

I would like to thank you for all you help matching up the bearings and seal will be back as I ready my camper. BTW it is a Flagestaff by Forest River 2009. Thank you 650035



- 10-9
by:

I am a firm believer in Murphy's Law and plan for things to go wrong. I have kept a full bearing set for my Dexter #9 in the tool box of my teardrop since I first got it. I have yet to need them but I am ready. I had to order a second set of seals to replace the original set that came with the axle kit. Why? Some unfortunate soul came up to me in a campground and since we had a similar Little Guy/NuCamp trailer, asked me "I bet you don"t have a spare set of bearing seals?" He lost a bearing and even though he found new bearings and races - at 5 times the cost, but no one in the little town we were in had any idea of the seal number. I gave him the part numbers from my cross ref sheet and he left to make some calls. A week to get them! We looked them up, ordered me a new set and sold them for the replacement cost. We keep in touch, he made it home from Calif to N. Carolina and has made several trips since with no issues. 643230



- 10-9
by:

Not much to say about it. It works as expected. Would purchase again. 739496



- 10-9
by:

I have been using etrailer for years and years. They have everything you need and are very helpful when you need advice Keep up the good work 715061



- 10-9
by:

So far seals are holding up perfectly. 681600



- 10-9
by:

Very good heavier than most low price. 649563



- 10-9
by:

Seemed to fit and work as ordered 617453



- 10-9
by:

Good 577873



- 10-9
by:

Got my package it was broken open during shipping nothing left in it. Called them and it was fixed ASAP. Great service!! 576904



- 10-9
by:

great product worked perfect, fast ship ping 573092



- 10-9
by:

This is the exact part I needed and it came just on time. In general, you have the parts I need, the prices are good and youalways deliver on time. This is why I continue to order from etrailer. 561638



- 10-9
by:

The product is fine. The review is more about finding these beasts. I went to 5 stores in my local area to no avail. I went online and entered the bearing SN# and only one company had a link to grease seal. I was never particular about where I brought online. Every time I needed trailer parts, this was the place. I'd suggest all trailer parts shoppers just start here. 557911



- 10-9
by:

Exactly what I needed. Will buy again. 539380



- 10-9
by:

Excellent 519697



- 10-9
by:

Fast an easy, thank you 498665



- 10-9
by:

speedy delivery and just as advertised. - thanks etrailer team! 493101



- 10-9
by:

Ordered to have extra seals on hand. Same seal as in the kit. 487442



- 10-9
by:

Great product. Good quality. 477010



- 10-9
by:

its a bearing seal, what can i say, etrailer service and pricing excellent as always 467601



- 10-9
by:

Grease seals arrived in good condition, good quality. No issues. 447908



- 10-9
by:

Tommy did a great job helping me get my brakes fixed thank you 439960



- 10-9
by:

Meh 438836



- 10-9
by:

Great customer service and prices! Appreciate it! 437126



- 10-9
by:

Needed these on short notice to get the trailer ready for Sturgis. Shipping was fast and ordering was easy. No stress. 409898



- 10-9
by:

The grease seals work perfect. As always etrailer.com is a great place to order all your trailer products. Easy ordering and fast delivery. 404505


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Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Grease Seals with 1.500-Inch I.D. and 1.987-Inch O.D.
    Two grease seals match closely to your required inner and outer diameters. The linked page displays parts # RG06-020 (a pair of seals) and # 10-9 (a single seal). Both have an inner diameter of 1.500-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches.
    view full answer...
  • Video Showing How to Install a Grease Seal on a Trailer Hub
    I think the best way to explain how to install a grease seal like # 10-9 is to take a look at the video I have linked. Go to about the 6 minute, 10 second mark. At this point in the video, our installer begins to install the seal in the back of the hub.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal for Rettig Utility Trailer with Inner Bearing L44549
    Typically the numbers on a grease seal will be stamped onto the inner edge of the seal. If you are not able to see these numbers, you can also measure the inner and outer diameters using a digital caliper like the Performance Tool # PTW80157. Sometimes it is hard to measure a used seal, so measuring the seal seat on the spindle and the hub's inner bore is another option and may give a better indication of what the inner and outer diameter of the seal needs to be. We do not currently...
    view full answer...
  • Cross Referencing 10-9 Replacement Grease Seals for Aliner Trailer
    The key for selecting a replacement grease seal is the reference number, in this case # 10-9. The manufacturer code does not matter. This is a single-lip seal with an inner diameter of 1.500-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches. It is compatible as a replacement for the following other manufacturers' parts: Dexter 010-009-00 Transcom 15191VB National 474276 NOK AR2266FO Chicago Rawhide 14840 If you prefer a double-lip seal in this same size use # RG06-020 which is sold...
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal # 10-9 Recommendation for a Axle with Chicago Rawhide # 14840 Seals
    Yes, this Grease Seal, part # 10-9, will fit your axles that have Chicago Rawhide # 14840. There is actually a cross reference guide on the product page for the # 10-9.
    view full answer...
  • What is Correct Replacement Grease Seal for Bearing # L44649
    Thank you for providing the part number from your existing grease seal, part 16074-224. Based on my research I found that part # 10-9 is an equivalent replacement part. I have also linked a helpful article and video concerning bearings and seals.
    view full answer...
  • Difference Between Grease Seals with 1.5000 Inner Diameter
    We do have a few different seals that match the 1.500" diameter of your spindle. You will just need to determine which of these seals has an outer diameter that matches with your hub bore. Seal part # 10-9 (also available in a 2 pack as part # RG06-020) has an outer diameter of 1.987" and is the most common. Seal part # SL150 has an outer diameter of 2.332" and is more common on agricultural applications. Attached are some pictures that cross-reference these seals with other known seals...
    view full answer...
  • Will the # 10-9 Grease Seal Work in Place of the # RG06-20 Seal Kit
    Yes, the Grease Seal # 10-9 will work in place of the 10-60 grease seal. The 10-60 seals are sold by the pair in kit # RG06-020 to fit one axle, while the # 10-9 are sold individually. Both have the same inside and outside diameter and both are double lip grease seals.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal Recommendation for a 16074-224
    I did a little digging on your grease seal number and it looks like the 16074-224 has an inner diameter of 1.5 inches and an outer diameter of 1.987 so the correct part number you would need is the # 10-9.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Axle for a 1994 Aliner Trailer
    You can order axles to your specifications from a tractor or trailer supply store. Or you can try a Timbren Axle-less system. I have included a link to the Axle-less systems, which are like torsion axles, to the right. We do not carry any regular torsion axles. Please note that raising the height of a trailer will also raise its center of gravity making it more susceptible to sway.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hub Grease Seal Recommendation for Replacing National Seal 474276
    Your dimension of 1.983 is close enough to the dimension of the # 10-9 which has outer diameter of 1.987 and the cross reference numbers match so this would be a fit and would work well.
    view full answer...
  • Too Much Play in Hub and Drum Assembly on Henshen Axles
    It sounds like your axles take bolt-on hubs. Is this correct? If there is excessive play then something is not tight enough or it is possible that the hub is not the correct fit for the spindle or the bearings may not be correct for the hub or spindle. There is likely a correct torque rating for a bolt-on hub that you would need to determine from the manufacturer. The 4-bolts in the back though sound like the ones that hold on the brake assembly. You should be able to unbolt a bolt-on...
    view full answer...
  • Can a Double Lip 10-60 Trailer Bearing Seal be Used In Place of a Single Lip 10-9 Seal
    Yes, you can use the double lip seal # RG06-020 in place of the single lip 10-9 seal. I have included a link to a video review of this seal set for you. If given the option always go with a double lip seal. They offer better protection from leaking (or blowouts when used on EZ lube spindles). There are no real cons to going with a double lip seal if available.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal # 10-9 Recommendation for a Aliner Alite 300 Trailer
    The Grease Seal # 10-9 that you referenced would be the correct replacement seal for your axles. You would just need to order a quantity of two of them since are looking for a pair. It sounds like you are interested in a Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS. The design makes it easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub. For bearing grease I would recommend LubriMatic LMX Industrial Strength Grease # L11390. If you need...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal for a 1999 Bass Tracker Pro Team 175
    The correct grease seal you need for your 1999 Bass Tracker Pro Team 175 should be part # 10-9. This seal has a 1.500" inner diameter and a 1.987" outer diameter. I would measure the outer diameter of your existing grease seal to be certain you receive the correct replacement.
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure to Identify Correct Replacement Grease Seal
    First, make certain that your new seal has the exact same part number or dimensions as your old one. Seals come in many sizes and can differ as little as a few thousandths of an inch. That small diameter change can mean the difference between a good fit and no fit. Two seals that may appear identical in size to the naked eye could still have slightly different dimensions. It is not reliable to use an old seal to match up to a new one since over time they can become deformed. If you can...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hub Seal for a Hub with Inner Bearing L44643
    The matching race for bearing # L44643 is # L44610. For this race and bearing combination the seal is # RG06-010. It has an inner diameter of 1.249 inches and an outer diameter of 1.983 inches. This is a set of double lip seals that provide a much better seal than a single lip. If the L44643 bearing was the outer bearing then I will need to know the inner bearing to determine the correct seal.
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out a Replacement Trailer Grease Seal
    Since the inner diameter of a grease seal is soft rubber it can be hard to get an exact measurement of it, or if it has worn out it may not be accurate. The best recommendation I could make would be to get the outer diameter of where the grease seal rides on your spindle. We do have a seal that has an outer diameter of 2.561 like you said you need. Check out part # 168255TB. This seal has an inner diameter of 1.687 inches. There might also be a number stamped on the outside of...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal with 1.50" Inner Diameter and 1.987" Outer Diameter
    The correct seal with a 1.50" inner and 1.987" outer diameter is the # 10-9 grease seal. This seal can be purchased in a pair with part # RG06-020. I've linked our help article on popular trailer bearing sizes that you might find helpful and explains the dimensions on our most popular trailer bearings, races and seals.
    view full answer...
  • Availability of Trailer Grease Seal that would Fit Golf Cart
    The grease seal part # 10-9 that you referenced is designed for use on a trailer hub, but if the inner and outer diameters match what you golf cart has it could potentially work for you. The inner diameter of the seal is 1.5 inches and the outside diameter is 1.987. If your seal matches that exactly it should work.
    view full answer...
  • Dexter 8-258 Inner Grease Seal Recommendation
    For a Dexter hub 8-258 the correct seal is the part # 10-9.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing and Seal Kit for 2004 Kendon Motorcycle Trailer
    My research indicates that grease seal part 125255UC has an outer diameter of 1.980-inches and this correlates with the hubs that use bearing # L44649. The seal part most often used with inner/outer bearing L44649 is seal part # 10-9 which has an inner diameter of 1.50-inches and an outer diameter of 1.987-inches so bearing kit # BK1-150 that you referenced should do it. You can confirm the seal size by measuring a spindle at the point where the seal rides (point B in the linked image)...
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  • Replacement Hubs for 2,700 lb Axle
    Based on your photo it looks like you have 2,700 lb axles, and we do have hubs for that size axle. However, you will need to confirm the bearings your current hub has. You will need to take apart your current hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you need to use Digital Caliper # 301-17068 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal Number for Dexter 8-257 Drum Hub
    The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly for 2,000-lb Axles - 7" - 5 on 4-1/2 # 8-257-5UC3 will use a # 10-9 seal that is 1.5 inches inner diameter and 1.987 inches outer diameter. Crossreference numbers are: Dexter 010-009-00 K71-301-00 Transcom 15191VB National 474276\ NOK AR2266FO Chicago Rawhide 14840
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  • Replacement Hub Assembly for Timbren Axle-Less Suspension System # A20RS545
    To replace the hub assemblies on the Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System # A20RS545 the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub # 8-258-5UC1-EZ will work perfectly. This 2,000 pound hub includes all the bearings, races, and seal and it's completely compatible with the spindles on the Timbren Axle-Less System. We do also have the bearings, races, and seals used on these hubs available separately. For the inner and outer bearings you would need part # L44649 and for the inner/outer races you...
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  • Difference Between Grease Seal 10-9 and 10-60
    You are correct, a double lip seal is better than a single lip. All things being equal I always recommend a double lip when available. Especially when the application is a boat trailer that will get submerged in water. The other difference between the two seals you mentioned is the that the part # RG06-020 includes a quantity of two of the 10-60 seals and the # 10-9 is only one seal.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for the Timbren Axle Less System part # A12WS545
    The correct grease seal you would need for your Timbren Axle Less System part # A12WS545 that you have is the # 10-9.
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  • Grease Seal for 1982 EZ Loader Trailer
    Could you get me the dimensions of the oil seal? And it's for sure an oil seal and not a grease seal correct?
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Jenny M
Updated by:
Matthew E

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