1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Bearing Buddy
  3. Caps
  4. Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  5. 1.98 Inch
Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A w/ Auto Check - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A w/ Auto Check - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Item # BB1980A
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps BB1980A - Bearing Protector Grease Cap - Bearing Buddy
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Provide your trailer bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They provide an easy way to control the grease volume in your axle hub and have blue indicator rings to visually monitor levels. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A w/ Auto Check - Chrome Plated (Pair) part number BB1980A can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB1980A

  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • Bearing Buddy
  • 1.98 Inch

Provide your trailer bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They provide an easy way to control the grease volume in your axle hub and have blue indicator rings to visually monitor levels.


Features:

  • Replaces the grease cap in the axle hub
  • Prevents wheel-bearing failure
    • Keeps water and dirt out of hubs and bearings
    • Allows boat trailer wheels to be completely submerged
    • Stops corrosion and pitting on bearings
  • Provides easily accessible grease fitting
    • Makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple
  • Maintains slight, controlled pressure (3 psi) with spring-loaded piston, preventing water from entering hub
  • Allows visual monitoring of grease levels with blue indicator ring
    • Ring sits flush with top of cylinder when full
    • If ring is below top, add grease to move piston outward 1/8"
  • Prevents overfilling and rear seal damage with automatic pressure-relief feature
    • Grease seeps around piston edges and into barrel when full
  • Constructed of stainless steel internal parts and triple-chrome-plated steel barrel
    • Ensures longer-lasting fit than plastic or aluminum products
  • Includes rubber covers
  • Installs easily
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Fits 1.980" hub bore
    • Works with outer bearing models L-44643, L-44649 and L-44640
    • Works with outer bearing cup (race) model L44610
      • Commonly found on 2,000-lb, 2,500-lb and 3,500-lb Dexter axles
  • Lifetime warranty


Bearing Buddy installed diagram

Bearing Buddy Operation

Replace your existing grease cap with a Bearing Buddy to ensure a safe, easy way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. To adjust the amount of grease in the hub, use a grease gun to add more through the appropriate fitting. Adding grease moves the Bearing Buddy spring-loaded piston outward 1/8".

The O-ring inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy maintains a seal from the outside. The interior of the Bearing Buddy is pressurized, preventing water from entering the barrel and diluting the grease.

An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that can damage the inner seal.

The blue indicator ring allows you to visually monitor the amount of grease in your hub. The ring should sit flush with the top of the cylinder. If the ring is below the top of the cylinder, add grease until the piston moves 1/8" outward.



42200 Bearing Buddy Model 1980A w/ Auto Check - Chrome Plated (Pair)





Video of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A w/ Auto Check - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A w/ Auto Check - Chrome Plated (Pair) - BB1980A

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (217 Customer Reviews)

Provide your trailer bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They provide an easy way to control the grease volume in your axle hub and have blue indicator rings to visually monitor levels.

- BB1980A
by:

Great product! Work exactly as expected and gives me piece of mind knowing my bearings are protected against wear by the grease. 419546


Comments
The Bearing Buddies are still working fine- no bearing failures at all. Wheels rotate smoothly and theres no noise when jacked up & spinning freely.
Ken J - 08/13/2018

42262

- BB1980A
by:

The trailer that I expect to install these Bearing Buddies on is stored 150 miles from home, so I will need to install them later. I purchased these items so that I could be reasonably confident that the bearings had adequate grease for each trailer use, and these items will allow me to grease the bearings without a complete disassembly. This, in turn, will save me the time and trouble of working in an inconvenient location. These hubs and a grease gun, with lithium grease, will be all I need. The only problem I envision is that these items "will not fit" beneath the "baby moon hubcaps" that I have on the trailer at the moment. I have seen trailers that have similar hubcaps that are "cut out in the center," to allow for these Bearing Buddies, so perhaps I can find and purchase a pair of these. I have 15 inch, solid center, Dexter wheels (not spokers), so I am open for suggestions. Regarding the "Wheel Bearing Kits," these were purchased as emergency carry/use items, so they will be for "just-in-case" applications. 421411



- BB1980A
by:

I ordered a Draw Tite trailer hitch with wiring harness to pull a utility trailer I have just purchased. After a couple of days, I received an email that the manufacturer had not sent the hitch to etrailer yet and made a suggestion regarding the Curt brand of hitch. I agreed and within two days I received the replacement hitch and wiring kit via UPS. The product was as represented and, as stated on the website, was an easy install. Very happy with the products and the service I received. 520089



- BB1980A
by:

The old set of seals were oozing a little so I installed a set of new bearings and stock seals purchased from my local trailer supply store. I took it for a test ride, huge hunks of grease all over the inside of my rims, a real disappointment. Got on the web with etrailer.com, they got the 1.980 Bearing Buddy Grease Seal Set - BB60001 and the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A in a few days. It took 45 minutes to read the instructions, install the grease seals and protectors and clean-up. What a great fix! I had to make a 200 mile run that day to pick-up a classic canoe for a customer, not a speck of grease anywhere, clean, clean, clean!!! Great product, great fix, great price and service from etraler.com. Thanks 71262



- BB1980A
by:

Look, there are various bearing buddy knock offs out there that might be "good enough". These are the real deal and they have added a nice little feature - these blue ring indicators. The indicator ring lets you know when you might need to add more grease - and might also keep you from going overboard. I think it is more common for people to try to push too much grease into the hub especially with bearing buddy protectors installed. Great insurance for a boat trailer especially. 77433


Comments
The bearing buddies still look great one year later. As fishing season starts again in mn I look forward to being able to check at a glance to see whether I need to add grease.
davmac - 04/23/2014

3724

- BB1980A
by:

I was struggling to find the correct hub kit for my boat trailer because etrailer has a large inventory of products. I decided to call and the salesperson Mellissa found the correct part in minutes and had it shipped to my house in less than 24 hours. It’s is nice to know that etrailer still believes in great customer service and the human element of customer service. 493125



- BB1980A
by:

Great product 745915



- BB1980A
by:

I definitely like them...I pull my "self made" trailer in all sorts of weather and last year about 4,000 miles...no issues with bearings and the remain clean. 739947



- BB1980A
by:

The CE Smith Personal Watercraft trailer was very easy to assemble - just a few hours. It handles my small sailboats like a dream. Also, the support from etrailer was awesome for the several questions that I had. I would recommend etrailer to friends. 726794



- BB1980A
by:

Top shelf customer service. Steve Z is very knowledgeable about the things he sells. Hooked me up with right size bearing buddies after I ordered the wrong size. Had to return the wrong ones and he shipped the right ones with a return label. No hassles and eager to help. Bunch of good stuff goin on there. 726031



- BB1980A
by:

Perfect fit and arrived fast 721863



- BB1980A
by:

These are very different from the Bearing Buddys I purchased years ago but they seem to be a good design, well made and fit well. I have high hopes. 721387



- BB1980A
by:

The Bearing Buddies fit perfectly and are easy to use. 719813



- BB1980A
by:

Parts were exactly as described. Packaged nicely and received in good condition. First time that I have ever used Chinese branded bearings/races, so I will provide a review about them at my next bearing clean and repack. They were a great fitting bearing on the axle stub. 703990



- BB1980A
by:

Always fair prices and great info. Shipping is fast in a world where most websites is NOT. 703986



- BB1980A
by:

I ordered some wheel bearings, some bearing buddies, and some grease to redo my axles. Everything shipped together and very fast. Best prices around. Very knowledgeable staff. 698970



- BB1980A
by:

I bought them for spares, I have them in the tool box on my truck 690214



- BB1980A
by:

they worked great I don't own the camper anymore 680776



- BB1980A
by:

Most already know these are great, if you don't have them, buy a set, it is cheap insurance and beats a road side bearing replacement. Thank you etrailer! 675010



- BB1980A
by:

Product arrived as expected and in good order! Thank you etrailer:-} 674186



- BB1980A
by:

Fast great service. I received product today and I installed them. Works perfect. Thanks. 672494



- BB1980A
by:

delivery was fast . product awesome 672436



- BB1980A
by:

works like a charm. 665421



- BB1980A
by:

I have yet to install them, yet. Been raining. I looked at the box and like how it tells you how to properly fill with lubricant 653910



- BB1980A
by:

Easy installation. Just what I wanted. Ordering and delivery, nice and easy. 651958


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • What Size Bearing Buddy Fits My 7000 lb Axles
    Based on your 7000lb axles, it has a grease cap flange diameter of 2.722". As a result Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB2717SS will work for your axles.
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy and Bearing Kit for Malone MicroSport Trailer
    The Malone MicroSport Trailer # MPG460G does have the 1.98 inch inner diameter hub. I confirmed this with the manufacturer. To add bearing buddies, you simply need the # BB1980A for chrome or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel. You will not need to replace the bearings to install these caps. You can simply use the LubriMatic Economy Size Mini Grease Gun # L30100 and add the marine trailer wheel bearing grease # L11399 that matches what the axle comes with. When installing these, you...
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  • How to Monitor Grease in Hub With Bearing Buddies
    These are good questions so I will answer them in the order you asked. 1) When using Bearing Buddies the inspection will be done depending on which model you use. For Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1980A w/ Auto Check # BB1980A there is a blue indicator ring which will gives you a visual indicator of the amount of grease in your hub; this ring needs to be flush with the top of the cylinder. If it is under the cylinder you simply need to add grease until the piston is 1/8" outward....
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Hub with Bearing Number L68149
    The correct Bearing Buddy to use with the bearing numbers you listed of L44649 and L68149 is the # BB1980A or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel.
    view full answer...
  • How Much Grease Should be Added to the Bearing Buddy Bearings
    In order to add grease to a bearing buddy such as the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors part # BB1980A you will need a grease gun like part # ALL940798 and the appropriate bearing grease like part # L11390. Once you have obtained both the grease gun and grease you can fill the bearing buddy. An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that...
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  • Using Bearing Buddies on 10K Axle With Oil Bath Hubs
    Although they're most frequently used on boat trailers, you can use a Bearing Buddy on just about any trailer. You'll want to make sure to install a double lip grease seal, and be careful not to overfill hub. Even with a double lip seal, many folks tend to overfill their hubs and end up blowing out the seal (myself included.) I did some research, and found that the hub bore of the typical 10K axle is around 3.5 to 4.3 inches in diameter, which is larger than any of the Bearing Buddies...
    view full answer...
  • Should Bearing Buddies Buddies be Used on EZ Lube Trailer Axles
    EZ Lube spindles are generally preferred over Bearing Buddy setups. The EZ lube allows you to insert grease down the middle of the spindle easily which is basically the best option aside from removing the hub and taking it all apart and cleaning and re-greasing. The Bearing Buddies are great for people who don't have EZ lube spindles but since they basically push grease through the front it's not quite as ideal. Also we see a lot of people over fill their hubs with Bearing Buddies which...
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  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Hub Bore of 1.998-Inch
    All sizes of our Bearing Buddy bearing protectors are shown on the linked page. The Bearing Buddy size to match the hub bore dimension is the 1.98-inch type, such as # BB1980A-SS in stainless steel or # BB1980A in chrome finish. These are non-threaded. For a threaded Bearing Buddy in this size use # BB1980T-SS.
    view full answer...
  • Which Bearing Buddy and Grease for 1700 Lbs Carry-on Utility Trailer
    Although bearing buddies are primarily meant for boat or PWC trailers, you can certainly use them on a utility trailer. To choose the correct diameter Bearing Buddy use a precise measuring tool like a dial caliper and measure the inner diameter on the hub where the grease cap sits. You will want to match that measurement as closely as possible to the measurement on the Bearing Buddy product pages. I have attached a link to all of our bearing protectors for you to reference. The alternative...
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  • Best Grease to Use for Boat Trailer Hubs
    The highest quality grease we carry for wheel bearing is the LMX red grease like the part # L11390 that you referenced. LMX Red is heavy-duty, premium grease for the toughest lubricating jobs on the biggest, heaviest equipment. It performs better under higher pressures and temperatures than standard multi-purpose grease, and it resists water better. Because it resists water and sticks in place well, this grease will work on external parts that are exposed to the weather. It provides...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Bearing Buddy Kit for a Boat Trailer
    You will need to remove the wheel find out the outer bearing number. Once you have the bearing number, I can find if we have a Bearing Buddy available for it. The Bearing Buddy pages also have listings on them for what bearings they fit. The reason you have to go to such lengths to find out what Bearing Buddy Kit you need is that there are so many different variations in bearing/spindle/seal combinations that the only way to be sure you have the right part is to check the equipment you...
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  • Overall Length of Bearing Protectors in the 1.980 Diameter Size
    I went out to the warehouse and pulled the two different bearing protectors I have in the 1.980 diameter size and measured the overall length. The Kodiak Red Eye Bearing Protectors, part # KREB1980AC is 2-3/8 inches, including 3/8 inches that seats in hub The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors, part # BB1980A is 1-13/16 inches, including 5/16 inches that seats in hub. I am including a picture of the three bearing protectors with the dimensions shown.
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  • How To Find Out What Bearing Buddy Kit Should be Used with a 2009 Casita 17 Foot Trailer
    You will need to remove the wheel find out the outer bearing number. Once you have the bearing number, I can find out if we have a Bearing Buddy available for it. The Bearing Buddy pages also have listings on them for what bearings they fit. I have included a link to a video that demonstrates how to remove a hub and pull the bearings out.
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  • Locating Replacement Grease Seal for 2013 Jayco Jay Flight Trailer
    Typically the act of removing the grease seal from the hub will damage it enough to require a replacement, so you are correct that this will most likely need to be done when repacking your bearings. Unfortunately trailer manufacturers don't keep a good list of these types of parts that are installed on their units so to ensure you get the correct size for your Jayco Jay Flight you will just want to look for a number on your existing seal that should be stamped in the rubber portion (see...
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  • Replacement Cap Recommendation for Tow Power Bearing Protector for 1.980 inch Hub Bore
    What you will want for a replacement cover for your Towpower bearing protector is the part # BB19B. This part fits the exact same diameter bearing protector as what you have and will work well.
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  • Buddy Buddy Recommendation for Trailer Hub with Bearings L44649 and L68149
    The correct Bearing Buddy to use with the bearing numbers you listed of L44649 and L68149 is the # BB1980A or # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel.
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  • Do Bearing Buddies Work Well on Travel Trailer Hubs
    Bearing Buddies are a great way to keep grease in a trailer hub. I recommend them as long as you are aware that it's very easy to put too much grease in a hub with these which will blow out the seal. They have no problem being used on longer road trips so the would work well for you. If the hub bore of current hub is 1.980 inches the Bearing Buddy part # BB1980A would fit and work well.
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  • Will the 2.047 inch Bearing Buddy Fit a Bore Size of 2.012 inches
    I believe that the bearing buddy that you hub bore diameter that you saw was the 2.240 inch size, part # BB2240, which will be too big to fit in your hub bore size of 2.012 inches. The next step up from the # BB1980A that you purchased (which fit hub bore size 1.980) will fit the hub bore size 2.047 inches and is part # BB2047. Since you want the fit to be as accurate as possible this size will be too big. I called Bearing Buddy and my contact confirmed this. Custom-built trailers can...
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  • How to Pick Out Correct Size Bearing Buddy
    To find the correct size Bearing Buddy for your log splitter, you need to measure your hub bore diameter. I have attached a photo to show you where to take this measurement. A digital caliper like # PTW80157, will provide the most accurate measurement. Bearing protectors like # BB1980A, take the place of a regular grease cap. Since grease caps can easily bend/deform when being removed, measuring the actual hub bore on which they fit is what's recommended. For example, Bearing Buddy...
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  • Are Inner And Outer Bearing Greased When Using Bearing Buddy
    When the Bearing Buddy like part # BB1980A is used it will add grease to both the inner and outer bearings on your trailer. I have attached a link to our product page for the bearing protectors we offer. You can use the filter on the product page to find the correct protector for your trailer.
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  • Bearing Protector Not Wanting to Fit Into Hub Bore
    Believe it or not, the outside diameter of the Bearing Buddy is designed to be a bit larger than the inside diameter of the hub bore. Typically, a Bearing Buddy sized to fit a 1.98 hub bore will actually be about 1.986 in diameter, which means yours is about right. As long as the inside diameter of the hub bore is between 1.980 - 1.983, you should be able to drive that bearing into place using a scrap of wood between the bearing protector and the hammer. I've installed a few of the...
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  • How to Pick Out Bearing Buddies for a Trailer Hub
    In order to pick out the correct bearing buddy you will need know the pilot hole of your hub. To do this, remove the wheel and tire and remove the grease cap from the center of the hub. Usually it is a metal cap that is just lightly hammered into place. Use a screwdriver to pry off the cap. Clean the grease off and measure the opening with a digital or dial caliper. I have included a video demonstrating the Bearing Buddy. The Bearing Buddies # BB1980A that you referenced are for...
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Dexter P-16 Axle
    I spoke with my contact at Dexter regarding the axle on your trailer. He stated that this is a 2,200 pound axle that uses the # L44649 inner and outer bearing. With this in mind, the correct size Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors will be the part # BB1980A for Chrome Plated or # BB1980A-SS for Stainless Steel. If you have a threaded grease cap in your hub, you will want the threaded model # BB1980T-SS. These Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors are designed to fit 1.980 inch hub bores and...
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  • Troubleshooting a Loose Bearing Buddy Fit
    Unfortunately, the bearing buddy cannot be expanded in any way. What you would want to do to ensure a good fit for your bearing buddy to the hub would be to measure the inner diameter of the hub bore with a dial caliper # PTW80157. Once you obtain the proper hub bore diameter then you will want to choose a bearing buddy based on that measurement. The next size up bearing buddy for your hub would be the # BB2047. I have added a few videos for your convenience.
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  • How to Choose Correct Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector
    In the exact situation that you are referencing the measurement taken was in-between Bearing Buddy sizes so it would have been better to use one slightly larger than one that is slightly smaller as a smaller size wouldn't be able to remain installed properly. If you already have Bearing Buddy protectors installed on your trailer then you can use a digital caliper like part # 301-17068 to measure the inside diameter of your hub bore OR you can measure the outer diameter of the part that...
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  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation to Fit Hub Bore of 1.98 inch
    The Bearing Buddies actually fit the trailer hub bore and not the pilot diameter of the wheel. If the 1.99 dimension you measured was on the hub and not the wheel then the # BB1980A would be the correct Bearing Buddy to use.
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  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for 1993 Wells Cargo Enclosed Bike Trailer
    Bearing Buddy model # BB1980A will fit a hub bore of 1.98 inches. Or it might be easier to look at the outer bearing number, which you should be able to see without removing the hub. If the outer bearing is L44643, L44649, or L44640 then these Bearing Buddies will fit. If you decide to measure the hub bore you will need to use dial or digital calipers because the measurement has to be as accurate as possible.
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  • How to Measure Hub Bore to Determine Correct Size Bearing Buddy Protector for Jayco Pop-Up Camper
    Trailer makers like Jayco do not maintain detailed online specs on the small components (like grease caps) used in fabrication of their trailers but it is easy enough to take one measurement of your hub's bore to determine the size Bearing Buddy you need. You'll want to use a digital or dial caliper like # PTW80157 to measure the hub's inner bore. Please see the linked photo. You need to measure carefully and take the dimension to three decimal places, such as 1.234-inches as an example....
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  • How to Determine Which Grease Caps are Needed for Starcraft Starstream Tent Camper
    I don't have any reference material that would tell me what grease caps your tent camper used, but I can explain how you can determine the proper size. If you're speaking of a standard grease cap, we offer them in a zinc plated finish that's fairly shiny but couldn't be called chrome. To determine which one you'd need, you'll need to measure the inside diameter of the hub bore where the cap would install. this measurement would need to be very accurate, so a digital caliper should be...
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  • Does Bearing Buddy Replace Trailer Axle Dust Cap
    The Bearing Buddies will act as a substitute for a dust cap on a boat trailer axle, but the bras for them that just cover up the fitting would not. If the hub that you have has a bore of 1.98 inches the correct Bearing Buddy you'd need is the part # BB1980A. If you have a different diameter let me know and I'll pick you out what you need.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
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Expert Research:
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Expert Research:
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Written by:
Tyler C
Installed by:
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