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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. Dexter
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 2.561 Inch O.D.
  6. 1.687 Inch I.D.
Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs

Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs

Item # 168255TB
Our Price: $12.80
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.08 lbs
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Double lip grease seal fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Dexter. Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs part number 168255TB can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Dexter Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 168255TB

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.561 Inch O.D.
  • 1.687 Inch I.D.
  • Dexter

Double lip grease seal fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles.


  • Fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles
  • Inner diameter: 1.687"
  • Outer Diameter: 2.561"
  • Quantity: 1 double lip seal

010-168-00 Dexter Double Lip Seal for 3.7K Marine Hubs

Replaces 158755 and 168255TB

Video of Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs - 168255TB

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (144 Customer Reviews)

Double lip grease seal fits Dexter 3,700-lb marine axles.


The hub that was sent the inner bearings do not fit. The old hub bearings and the new hub bearings are identical same numbers even. Even if I had been given the correct hub the new bearings do not fit in the inner hub?? I did call And one of the customer service people helped me through confirming this she gave me her extension. I left her a message she was helpful.


I converted a boat trailer into a flatbed ATV/UTV trailer. My boat trailer has some different seal dimensions than a normal 3500# axle. These seals saved the day and fit perfectly into standard 3500# hubs for my trailer. Thanks!



Trailer works perfectly thanks to you guys!Whenever I need a trailer part, I look to you guys first.


always purchase bearings and seals here for my saltwater double axle trailer. the fit and ride well . good product


I trailer my boat every weeks down to shore 60 miles each way with no experience grease leak inner end axle. When the end of fishing season remove wheel during inspection both inner seal look great definitely seal to shop for


Not even close to the correct size ordered. the item irdeted clearly say outer diameter of 2.56…the items received were 3.37 in outer diameter. Very dissatisfied.

Etrailer Expert

Jenny N.


Oh my, I am sorry that we have sent you the wrong seal. Customer Service will be in touch to assist you.


Excellent, fits great! Thanks for the quick shipping.


Excellent Products and Services.


Great product, great price and expedient delivery!


Order was filled very quickly with an expected delivery of 5 days. Seals arrived in 3 days and are exactly what I needed! Excellent service!

Thomas F.


Great! No issues and very happy with quality of bearings and seals.


Thank you Jessica for steering me to the correct parts that fit my obsolete hubs! Everything worked out great. And thanks for following up with delivery status info. You are wonderful to work with!


Perfect fit for my 2000 EZ Loader tandem axle trailer and Skeeter.

eTrailer, if you're listening, please become a trailer parts expert that has a cross reference listing for trailer parts by manufacturer. I asked if this was the right seal and was told to pull the old seal for the part number on it. The problem was I suspected that the hub had the wrong seal on it, which I confirmed when I replaced it with this part. Using the part number from the existing seal would not have fixed the problem in this case. I had to do my own leg work and find the most likely candidate for the correct seal and take the gamble that I had the right one. Glad my research was correct. Please build your own cross reference of the major manufacturers so that you can be the expert in all things trailer. You have the other stuff covered.

Etrailer Expert

Patrick B.


Seals are kind of a pain. Even if a cross-reference sheet was built which is difficult because seals dont use common part numbers like bearings, if the incorrect seal was used like in your case, the cross-reference would only direct you to another incorrect seal. The absolute best way to determine which seal is needed is to measure 2 things with a dial caliper. Measure the seal surface on the spindle, that will give you the seal ID. Measure the diameter of the seal surface on the hub and that will give you the OD of the seal. With the ID and OD of the seal, it becomes very easy to find the seal, even on our site.

Ed P.


Correction to my original review. I had one hub that was replaced on my trailer before I acquired it. This seal worked for that hub, but not the original hubs.


No part number on my boat trailer seal. I measured inside and outside diameters with a digital caliper and it was really simple to match it up at It fit perfectly. Price was great and delivery time was extremely fast.



No problems at all!


Looks like it will be more durable than the one I removed.


I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time.


great product at a good price


The seals look to be a well built quality product. I will be installing them the next time I repack my hubs.


These grease seals were the last thing I needed to rebuild my 3500 lb trailer axle. When they arrived I was pleased to find that the inside diameter fit perfectly on the axle and the outside diameter fit into the wheel hub snuggly. They were easy to install and looked much stronger then the original.


Everything was as ordered. Grease Seal part number 168255tb was the same seal included in bearing kit BK2-100.
The description of 168255tb was not the same as the description in kit BK2-100.

I would not have wasted my money on the 2 extra seals if I would have know they were the same

Etrailer Expert

Victoria B.


The seal that comes in the BK2-100 kit has a slightly larger diameter than this seal, and that kit typically fits a 3.5K axle. This 168255TB seal is designed specifically for Dexters 3.7K Marine axle.


This is the only seal I found that would actually seal around my trailer axle. I have a 18ft Trailstar boat trailer. Its been about a year since I installed the seals and haven’t had any issues.


I replaced three old seals in the last one year with these in my twin axle EZ Loader trailer . All of them are holding on well till date. Keeps the grease inside the hub and no leaks found. Works with SS sleeve, in addition.


These were hard to find, odd size I guess. etrailer came through with quick shipping and they fit perfect. Holding up well so far.

Paul S.


Perfect. Have held up over a number of long trips.


Well hello, I dont do many reviews but I will have to say that the people at etrailer are very nice and very easy to deal with and they know there business for sure , I havent installed my parts yet and they arrived dead on time and I knew every step the parts made along the way to me . So far I am very pleased and that is hard to do with me as 99 percent of the time nothing is ever the way suppliers say it going to be until now with etrailer , very nice job guys and thank you and I will be installing everything this weekend and will do another review and will have some pics along the way, And by the way thank ou for keeping the prices affordable for us out here in the field trying to keep our equipment rolling and safe , with your prices no reason to be able to do just that , again great job guys .


So far, so good. Delivery was fast. The seals are a good fit for my boat trailer and seem to be of good quality. The last seals I used were single-lip and did not do a good job of keeping the water out and the grease in. I am hoping these double-lip seals will be better. I'll know in a year or so how well they work.


This seal fit perfectly to replace the 168255TC that came on my oil bath hub on the tapered spindle of my EZ Loader boat trailer which I converted to grease filled with Bearing Buddys.


Seals have held up well one year after purchase and installation. The prices and variety of parts at etrailer made is a no-brainer when shopping for replacement parts.

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this Dexter Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Grease Seal for Lippert 3,500 Lb Axle SN: 045-002688794
    I called Lippert and they informed me of the grease seal dimensions for your 3,500 lb axle. The correct replacement grease seal for you is part # 168255TB.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for a 168255TC Rubber Coated Seal
    We do have a compatible grease seal for your 168255TC oil seal, however, we do not carry rubber coated seals in this size. The 168255TC oil seal was designed to work with oil bath hubs on a 3,500 lb axle. For the most part, axle manufacturers have stopped making 3,500 lb axles with oil bath hubs because grease has been more reliable. Instead, I would recommend using the double lip grease seal, # 168255TB, and converting the hub to grease. This seal has the same inner diameter as your...
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  • Replacement for 523185 CR Grease Seal
    Based on my research the 523185 CR grease seal has a 1.687" inner diameter and 2.566" outer diameter. For a replacement you can use the # 168255TB. This has a 1.687" inner diameter and 2.561" outer diameter. The outer diameter is .005" smaller but such a slight difference won't be a problem.
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal with Inner Diameter of 1.6 inches
    If the outer diameter of the grease seal of your hub is 2-1/2 inches the grease seal part # 168255TB would fit and work well. You can measure the bore of your hub where the seal was installed to determine this. Otherwise the spindle dimensions you listed are off enough from what we carry that none of them would fit.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for the Hub of a Forest River RV, 171255TB
    Yes, the part # 58846 would be exactly what you need. The part number 171255 that you referenced actually gives the measurements of the seal that you need. 171 means 1.71 inches inner diameter and 255 mean outer diameter of 2.55 inches which is what the # 58846 has.
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  • Lippert Grease Seal Recommendation for a Lippert 2,800 lb Axle
    The grease seal part number # 168255TB that you referenced matches the dimensions of the grease seal you are looking for so it would work well for you.
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  • Oil Seal With 1.68 Outer Diameter And 2.56 Hub Inside Diameter
    We have the Dexter Axle Double Lip Seal for Marine Hubs # 168255TB which has the 1.68 inch diameter you need along with the 2.56 inch inside hub diameter you need.
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  • Replacement Double-Lip Grease Seal for EZ Lube Hub on 2005 TrailStar Boat Trailer
    Part AD2528E is a double-lip grease seal from NOK that cross-references to National seal part 470460. My research shows this seal has an inner diameter of 1.688-inches and an outer diameter of 2.560-inches. The nearest item we have is part # 168255TB which has an I.D. of 1.687-inches and an O.D. of 2.561-inches. If you have a digital caliper you can measure the spindle diameter where the seal rides and the hub bore where the seal installs to confirm the inner and outer seal dimensions...
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  • Double Lip Grease Seal for a 3,500 lbs Boat Trailer with About 1.67" Spindle Measurement
    It definitely sounds like you have the wrong seals, especially if they are barely making contact. I believe the seal you are looking for is part # 168255TB which is a double lip seal with the spring on the primary lip typically used for 3,700 lb marine hubs. It has an inner diameter of 1.687" and an outer diameter of 2.561". You need to measure both where it rides on the spindle as well as where it sits on your hub to ensure that it fits properly. If you have a different measurement than...
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  • Correct Grease Seal for a Boat Trailer that 10-19 Seal won't Fit
    Although there are standard bearing and seal combinations, sometimes (especially on older trailers) the "correct" seal won't fit, as you have found out. The closest seal that we have to the 1.654 Inner Diameter (ID) that you measured is part # 168255TB which has a 1.687" ID. This will be a little bigger than what you are needing but it will fit more snug than the 1.719" ID of the 10-19 seal that you are currently using. You will also want to check the diameter of the hub that this grease...
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  • How Thick is Trailer Hub Grease Seal 168255TB
    For trailer hub grease seal # 168255TB the thickness is 0.5 inches. I included a picture showing the inner and outer diameter and the thickness.
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace a Lippert 122087
    The inner diameter of a grease seal can be hard to get an exact dimension. The best way to get this info is to actually measure the outer diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides. The grease seal part number # 168255TB that you referenced matches the dimensions of the grease seal you are looking for so it would work well for you. This seal has an ID of 1.687 and an outer diameter of 2.561 inches.
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  • Replacing Broken Oil Seal Springs 168255TC
    The 168255TC oil seal is designed for use on for oil bath hubs, but they can be used on grease hubs. They basically just provide a better seal to hold oil in; they will still work for grease. The springs on your oil seals are required to function correctly, so you will need to replace the oil seals. We do not have oil seals available in the size you need. However, you can replace your oil seals with a grease seal. The Double Lip Seal # 168255TB will replace your oil seal. To do this, you...
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  • Are Trailer Grease Seals Sold in Pairs or Individually
    We offer trailer grease seals in pairs or individually. You'll see in the description if they are a pair or individually. For example we have the # 168255TB which is sold individually.
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  • How to Pick out a Grease Seal for a 2000 EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    The only recommendation I can make for you would be to remove your hub and current grease seal so that you can determine what you currently have either by measuring it or getting the number off it and then pick out the correct seal based on that info. The Double Lip Seal part # 168255TB has an inner diameter of 1.687 and an outer diameter of 2.561.
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  • How to Determine the Correct Size of Double-Lip Grease Seal for Jet Ski Trailer
    In order to get the proper seals for you, I'll need the reference number off the inner bearing and the diameter of the spindle that the inside of the seal rides on. If you can't find the reference number on the bearing, use an accurate measuring device like a digital caliper to measure the inside dimension of the bearing. A ruler or tape measure isn't accurate enough, we'll need the measurement to the second decimal place (hundredth of an inch). With this information, I'd be happy to look...
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  • Troubleshooting Leak on Trailer Axle
    Sounds like you have a blown grease seal on your trailer. This is a pretty common problem. To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal rides. With those two dimensions we can pick out the correct seal that you would need. I attached a link to a page that has all of the grease seals we carry. You will need to select your...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for EZ-Loader Boat Trailer with 2.56" x 1.68" Dimensions
    The correct match we offer for a grease seal which measures 2.56" outer diameter x 1.68" inner diameter is the Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs part # 168255TB.
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal for AD2528EO
    We have just what you need based on the dimensions you listed. The correct grease seal you need is the part # 168255TB which has outer diameter of 2.561 and an inner diameter of 1.687 inch.
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  • What is Difference Between Bearing # 168255TB and # 171255TB
    We recommend using digital calipers to measure the spindle. If you did not do so, you might try that. The part number 171255 that you referenced actually gives the measurements of the seal that you need. 171 means 1.71 inches inner diameter and 255 mean outer diameter of 2.55 inches which is what the # 58846 has. So part # 168255TB will have an inner diameter of 1.68 and an outer diameter of 2.55, so it should give you a slightly better seal. We usually recommend you use the exact size...
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  • Axle Replacement Recommendation for a Trailer with Unique Spindle Dimensions
    The closest seal we have to what would match what you have would be the part # 168255TB. This seal has an outer diameter of 2.561. The inner bearing with the matching ID would be the part # 603049. Nothing we have would fit the 2.328 you have for the bearing inner diameter of the other bearing. Based on the dimensions you listed there really isn't any thing out there that would fit your spindle/hub. The only recommendation I could make would be for a new axle. I attached a page that has...
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  • Grease Seal w/ Inner Diameter of 1.687" and an Outer Diameter of 2.561"
    The right grease seal for your 2007 Tracker Trailstar Trailer is going to be the Dexter Axle Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs item # 168255TB. This seal has an inner diameter of 1.687" and an outer diameter of 2.561".
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Seal with 1.685 Inch Inner Diameter
    If the outer diameter of your old seals is 2.561 inches then you could use seal # 168255TB. It has an inner diameter of 1.687 inches which is the closest match we have to your 1.685 measurement.
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  • What Replacement Grease Seal Fits a DICO 45264 Axle?
    From my research, your DICO model 45264 hub has grease seals that have a 1.687" inner diameter and a 2.561" outer diameter. If this is the case, the correct grease seal you need is the Double Lip Seal for 3,700-lb Marine Hubs # 168255TB. In order to make sure this is the part you need, I recommend measuring your current grease seals or the place on your spindle that houses the grease seals. I went ahead and attached a helpful diagram that shows you how to measure this. The grease seal...
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