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Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit

Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit

Item # 46255
Our Price: $81.13
Trailer Wiring

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Shipping Weight: 1.07 lbs
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46255 - 4 Flat Hopkins Trailer Wiring
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These units completely isolate the tow vehicle from trailer malfunctions. Power is taken directly from the battery for isolation and brighter trailer tail lights. Great Prices for the best trailer wiring from Hopkins. Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit part number 46255 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-636-306-4830 for expert service.
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Hopkins Trailer Wiring - 46255

  • Trailer Connectors
  • Vehicle End Connector
  • 4 Flat
  • Plug and Lead
  • Hopkins

These units completely isolate the tow vehicle from trailer malfunctions. Power is taken directly from the battery for isolation and brighter trailer tail lights.


Features:

  • 5 Amp capacity
  • Install kit Includes:
    • 14-Gauge power lead wire
    • Quick-splice connectors
    • Fuse holder and fuse
    • Self-tapping screw
    • Zip-ties
    • Terminal grease


46255 Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit

Installation Details 46255 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles



California residents: click here


Video of Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Hopkins Tailight Converter Kit Installation - 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee

Today on this 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee, we're going to install part number 46255. This is a Hopkins Active Taillight Converter with install kit. Our first step is to go ahead and open up the back hatch and go ahead and remove the taillights. One, two, three bolts removed used a 10 mm socket. Now you take our light loose by rocking it back and forth, pulling back. We'll go ahead and set this aside for now, then we'll go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger's side.

To give us some extra working room, go ahead and pop the ground loose. We've got some extra wires in here. It's actually a little bit easier to get access to, so we'll go ahead and just make our splices inside here. Then we'll go ahead and do the same thing over on our driver's side. Next, we'll go ahead and strip back the electrical tape on our wires. We're going to do the same thing on our passenger's side.

Now we're going to go ahead and start working with the wire harness. First we need to divide up the wires. Basically, what we're going to do is pull away the green wire, get that out of our way and also the larger red wire. Get that out of the way. The rest of our wires will be installed onto these wires here and we'll make up the circuits one at a time.

Now the tester wires, we're also going to need a ground, so actually we'll go ahead an install our ground wire first, which will be the white wire at the ring terminal. We'll simply attach to the sheet metal and then we'll use that for our ground for our tester. We're running a little bit high on this one. We'll use the provided sheet metal screw that comes with the kit, now using a 1/4 inch nut driver to run it into the sheet metal. We'll go ahead and take our ground and go to our ground that we just made. We'll go ahead and test our wires.

First we'll go ahead and look for our running light circuit. Okay, with the running light circuit on, it looks like our blue wire is the running light. To make our connection we're going to use the quick splice connectors that come with the kit. We'll snap it over the wire we're going to use. Then we'll go ahead, we'll take our brown wire, push it inside next to the blue wire. Make sure it goes all the way through. Using a pair of pliers we'll go ahead and clamp the metal clip and it'll connect the two wires. May be a good idea to check it to make sure it's made a connection. All right, one circuit down. Now we'll go ahead and look for our turn signal on the left-hand side. It looks like our light brown wire is going to be our turn signal for our left-hand side. We'll go ahead and connect our yellow wire from our module to that. All right, next we'll go ahead and look for our brake signal. Cool. Now our brake signal, we'll use the red wire without the butt connector. This will be for our stop signal. Then we'll make our connections to the wire harness on the driver's side. Next, we're going to go ahead and take our green wire and we're going to route this to to the other side. Then we'll go ahead and look for our right turn signal with this wire. Basically, we're going to route our green wire between the bumper cover and the body work on the inside. We'll go ahead and take our ground for our tester and just go to the latch here in the center. We're going to check the wire over here. Over on the passenger's side it's going to be the same color, brown color and we'll make our connection. Our green wire for right turn signal. Brown on the passenger's side. Now all our connections are done on the passenger's side. The last wire is our red wire with the butt connector. That will go to, that full length of wire that comes with the kit. Strip the wire back about a 1/4", pull it to the butt connector. Attach the two together. We'll use some electrical tape to help protect the connection. Then we'll take the rest of our wire and we'll drop it down between the bumper cover and the body work. We'll run it down to the ground. We'll also do the same thing with the wires for our four pole end. Now the same thing for our four pole wire. All right, next we'll go ahead and make a slit in our grommet so we can run our wires back through and then put our grommet back into place. We'll need some tin snips just to make a cut. Almost all the way down to the wires. Once our wires are put into the slit, we'll go ahead and take the grommet and put it back in. We'll also have to move our light. You'll probably have to make some adjustments as you put it in as well. Now we're also ready to put our taillight back into place. We'll go ahead and secure our module in any way possible. In this case I'm just going to use the supplied zip tie. Just attach it to the wire harness here. This will just keep it from moving around any more than it has to. Now we can go ahead and put our taillight back into place. All right, now let's go back to the passenger's side and make a cut in our grommet, re-install the grommet there and also re-install our taillight. We'll go ahead and shut the hatch as well. Then we'll go underneath our vehicle, let's go ahead and take our four pole harness and we'll go ahead and route it to the center of the hitch. We'll add the cover to it and use it to hold it in place for us while we zip tie the wires to the hitch. You definitely want some longer zip ties than what comes with the wire harness. All right, now we'll go ahead and take the red wire and run it towards the front. Keep in mind that the battery on our vehicle is going to be on the passenger's side. What we're going to do is stay on the driver's side until we get up to the engine compartment, then go over to the battery. When we do that we'll make sure we stay away from anything moving, like suspension components or anything hot like the exhaust. Once we get up towards the front of the vehicle we also want to make sure we stay away from the steering components as well. We'll go ahead and show you how we ran our wire. This will be up to individual preference, but this is how we did it. We ran it back over lines that go to the gas tank, going towards the front, staying above the rear suspension. Zip tying in places that we could and following the lines all the way along the frame. We will just let our wires sit her for now. We'll go ahead and drop a pull wire from the top down, to pull our wires back up. Now, we're going to use an old piece of airline tubing for a pull wire. This could also be any piece of wire that holds its' shape and can run it down where you want to on the vehicle. We're going to stay close to the firewall here. Just make sure we stay away from the steering components. Go back underneath the vehicle. Connect our wires together to our pull wire. Go ahead and pull it up. Okay, we'll pull up our slack and we'll route it to the other side. We'll run zip ties as needed to keep it up and out of the way. All right now we're up to our battery here. Let's go ahead and strip off the end of our wire. We'll go ahead and add our fuse holder. We'll go ahead and seal it up with some electrical tape. Then we'll add it to the positive side of our battery. We'll go ahead and take a moment to zip tie our access wires. We'll go ahead and try out our four pole a the back. It's a good idea to verify the wires that are working before you try it on a trailer. First our brown wire for running light circuit. Yellow for left turn. All right then green for right turn. Our brakes are going to be a constant signal on the yellow and green wires. Great, everything works. That will finish it for our install of part number 46255 the Hopkins Active Taillight Converter with install kit on our 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee. .

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Hopkins Active Tail Light Converter with Install Kit - 46255

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (58 Customer Reviews)

These units completely isolate the tow vehicle from trailer malfunctions. Power is taken directly from the battery for isolation and brighter trailer tail lights.

by:
2004 Buick LeSabre

The only thing that would have made installation easier would have been if the tail light harness instructions would indicate for the car model which color car tail light wires to connect to on each side. Took some experimentation to figure it out.




by:
1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee

I received this product the other day and went to work installing it on my 1993 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. This was done outdoors on a sunny 90 plus degree day on [the driveway].

Prior to buying I had read the online instructions and, more importantly, watched an installation video. The video was a huge help and the kit was very easy to install. The snap splice connectors work like a charm. I used extra zip ties I had to secure the power line in place as I routed it down the passenger side of the Jeep. Hook up to the battery terminal was easy.

I did not have a circuit tester to check the individual wires to ID their function but since their colors exactly matched the video, I decided to take my chances. It worked out great.

Installation of the power wire would be easier on a lift but I don’t have one installed in my driveway so it entailed crawling under the




by:

Very nice wiring harness. The instructions were detailed and installation was easy!




by:

Great Service and knowledge




by:

This piece of junk worked when installed, but only briefly. I rarely use a trailer but need the lights to work reliably when I do. Probably about the third or fourth short trip the internal electronics fried themselves and the switching inside the unit failed, leaving one light on all the time and the other not working at all. This was using the most basic configuration of trailer lights - just two #1157 bulbs, that's it. No possibility of overloading the converter, which was located inside the hatchback area of the tow vehicle, hardly ever used, and not out in the weather. The failure occurred just at about 7 months of ownership, etrailer refused to stand behind the obviously defective product since the warranty is only 6 months. Really, for automotive use, a product should last years. Two thumbs down.




by:
2007 Mazda 3

Great product. If you don't have a friend to help you align the hitch during installation, a floor jack is very helpful. When using the fishwire for the first time just be patient, it takes a little time to get the hang of it. Also, I ran the harness through the car underneath the carpet and up through the side kick panel to the battery rather than underneath the car. Mazda 3s are low enough already to worry about a wire harness coming down underneath the car. Just spend some extra time and do it right.


Comments
Great. Still works just fine.
Jacob - 03/24/2019


by:
2004 Buick LeSabre

I ordered a ball, ball mount, Curt Hitch and Hopkins Converter kit for the lights. My order was potentially delayed due to the ball I ordered not being in stock. It arrived within the shipping time quoted. Without the required hitch pin to hold the ball mount to the hitch.

The Curt hitch bolted right up. And looks fine.

The Hopkins converter kit is a complete joke. The website said it was for my vehicle, which it is.. The only problem is, the wiring connections are a joke when a simple adapter could be used to do all of the tail light connections. (Running lights, brake lights, right and left turn signal are all wired to a simple connector on the drive4rs side. 3M connectors make me nervous! They make adapter plugs for many for other vehicles, never saw this option offered by Etrailer. I hope to receive the hitchpin by the middle of this week.

If we are required to use a 3M connector, you should at least supply the silicone dialectric grease to complete the job.


Comments
The hopkins wiring harness part # 46255 is a universal wiring kit. Currently, there is not a plug and play option for a 2004 Buick LeSabre. This kit does include a small packet of dielectric grease but if you need more I recommend part # 11755
Dielectric Grease for Electrical Connectors, 2 oz.
$11.58
2 oz dielectric grease.
-- Etrailer Expert Heather A - 08/20/2018


by:
2004 Honda Civic

Before installing Hopkins Active Taillight Converter kit 46255 I didn't have any trailer stop lights. After installation all trailer lights worked perfect. S.L.


Comments
Works perfect. Great product.
Sidney L - 10/01/2014


by:

I had this hitch and lights installed and they work perfectly. Easy to use. Thanks




by:
2004 Buick LeSabre

I bought this for a 2004 Buick Lesabre limited, so I could pull small trailers and someday a small boat. It's somewhat easy to install. Once I figured out the purple wire in the car is for the tail light on the converter box, it was all good. Anyway, it does what it's supposed to, which is amplify the power to the trailer lights, and it does it very well. This product will ensure your vehicle's electrical system will be safe under the extra load of the trailer lights. The only issue I had was figuring out where to mount the converter box, and had to get creative. I think using a strong adhesive to stick it to the inside wall of the trunk would be the best option.




by:

One year in and the wiring harness is still working great. I had to reset the in-line fuse once because the trailer lights were not functioning, but that was a 30 second fix. Pop out the fuse, pop it back in. Done.




by:

Auto mechanic shop put this part in today, it is determined by them to have a defective module. It does not work. Any direction?


Comments
Customer Service will contact you.
-- Etrailer Expert Sierra K - 11/15/2021


by:
2011 Jeep Liberty

I ordered this product even though I didn't need it to make the trailer lights work properly. I bout it in this case to isolate the vehicle and trailer lighting system from each other. With computers controlling everything on modern vehicles a short in trailer wiring could cause the vehicle to stop running when it sees a problem. I did need this same item on out Jeep Liberty to make the brake and turn signals work.
etrailer is my go to place for towing items. Good prices and fast shipping. Good customer service too. A cheap price is no good without good customer service.




by:

Worked well, easy to install




by:

As usual my experience was nothing short of amazing! I need to replace my trailer wiring harness on my ‘05 ML500. Ashley answered my call, heard & understood what I need along with any extra items. She even looked up my similar purchase from 3yrs ago to be sure we had the correct items for My vehicle! Fantastic Friendly & fast service! We had the order placed in less than 5 min & had a confirmation & notice of order complete & ready to ship within 2hrs! Shipped the next day & I received the goods on wed.!
THANK YOU ASHLEY!! And THANK YOU ETRAILER once again for fantastic service!




by:

Good prices on great products with fast shipping, I am a longtime customer




by:

Easy to install. After that it kept blowing fuses left and right. It was rated for the trailers I was pulling so i was quite disappointed. Soon after the wires overheated and started creating smoke inside the vehicle so I removed and replaced with a different brand.




by:

Thank you for following up with me. I would first like to say your customer service is first rate. The hitch and wiring harness are great too. Install was fairly easy and instructions good. The only minor problem I have is that the trailer ball I purchased and used on the trailer began to rust last fall. Probably my own fault for going through the car wash too many times with the hitch in. Anyway, thanks again for the follow up.




by:
2009 BMW 3 Series

Installed on a 2009 328i BMW, took more work to get interior panels off/on in trunk area than the wiring. I had the electrical wiring diagrams for the car which really helped.


Comments
Just went camping hooked up trailer and all lights worked as they should great product.
RussellB - 06/27/2017


by:

The unit went on reasonably easily except for running the power wire up to the battery. That part was a pain, but oh well. I did encase the power wire in plastic loom and then rubber hose once I got to the engine compartment for protection of the wire just to be safe.




by:
2000 Lexus RX 300

George with etrailer has always had great products good communication and super support. I while back I ordered a part on Saturday afternoon and it was on our door step on Monday. Still remember it and appreciate it as it minimized our issue.

All the best,




by:

Good directionstuff to be helpful. The installation to be easy. Took me about 1 hour to complete and working flawless when done.


Comments
Works great. No issues
Dan R - 05/25/2016


by:
2007 Ford Crown Victoria

The wire on the B+ wire to the battery was about 3' too short necessitating a trip to the auto store for a $7 roll of new wire. Other than that, wiring package was easy to install. I would think the wire would be too short for most installations and for the price of the kit, they need to make longer.




by:
2003 Buick LeSabre

Very easy to install, works great, nice short run for power under the rear seat.


Comments
still pleased with my purchases and dealings with your company. etrailer.com will be my go to source for all things towing related in the future. Thanks for good products at good prices, easily purchased and quickly delivered.
Tom - 05/15/2019


by:
2008 Ford Crown Victoria

Cheaper than the other choice, works just as well. Install took about an hour. I direct soldered and ran a lead from my cabin fuse box rather than my battery. I did use the splice/crimps on the trunk wires for simplicity's sake.

Works great on my 2008 Ford CVPI!



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Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this Hopkins Trailer Wiring

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  • Troubleshooting Right Turn Signal That Only Works After Install of Trailer Wiring on Vehicle
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  • Will the Hopkins Active Taillight Converter Work on a 2012 Chevy Malibu LTZ
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  • Recommended Trailer Wiring Harness for 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee
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