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Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 2,000 lbs

Item # AKEBRK-2

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Trailer Brakes

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etrailer Electric Drum Brakes - AKEBRK-2
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etrailer Electric Drum Brakes - AKEBRK-2
AKEBRK-2 - 10 Inch Wheel,12 Inch Wheel,13 Inch Wheel etrailer Trailer Brakes
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AKEBRK-2 - 7 x 1-1/4 Inch Drum etrailer Trailer Brakes
etrailer Electric Drum Brakes - AKEBRK-2

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etrailer Trailer Brakes - AKEBRK-2
etrailer 10 Inch Wheel,12 Inch Wheel,13 Inch Wheel Trailer Brakes - AKEBRK-2
etrailer Electric Drum Brakes - AKEBRK-2
etrailer 7 x 1-1/4 Inch Drum Trailer Brakes - AKEBRK-2
AKEBRK-2 - 2000 lbs Axle etrailer Trailer Brakes
AKEBRK-2 - Brake Set etrailer Trailer Brakes
etrailer Electric Drum Brakes - AKEBRK-2
Trailer Brakes AKEBRK-2 - Brake Set - etrailer
etrailer Electric Drum Brakes - AKEBRK-2
Trailer Brakes AKEBRK-2 - 2000 lbs Axle - etrailer
AKEBRK-2 - 7 x 1-1/4 Inch Drum etrailer Electric Drum Brakes

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  • Electric Drum Brakes
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 7 x 1-1/4 Inch Drum
  • 10 Inch Wheel
  • 12 Inch Wheel
  • 13 Inch Wheel
  • etrailer
  • Manual Adjust
  • Brake Set
Driver's-side and passenger's-side electric brakes measure 7" x 1-1/4". Brake pads are made of durable friction material for improved braking and longevity. E-coated backing plates resist rust. Fit 10" to 13" wheels. Lowest Prices for the best trailer brakes from etrailer. Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 2,000 lbs part number AKEBRK-2 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (44)
  • Q & A (56)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer by AxleTek Trailer Brakes - AKEBRK-2

Driver's-side and passenger's-side electric brakes measure 7" x 1-1/4". Brake pads are made of durable friction material for improved braking and longevity. E-coated backing plates resist rust. Fit 10" to 13" wheels.


Features:

  • Electric brakes are easier to install and offer more user control than hydraulic brakes
    • Require only an electric brake controller (sold separately) - no actuator or hydraulic lines necessary
  • Automotive-grade friction material is molded to brake shoes
    • Pads are fully bonded - not riveted - to shoes for long life and more braking torque
    • Less chance of cracking and crumbling that can lead to mechanical lockup, thanks to tapered edge and circular grinding
  • Periodic manual adjustment required
    • Fine-tooth brake adjustment gears allow for a more precise setting
  • E-coated backing plates resist wear and corrosion
  • Adjuster plugs (included) cover access holes to keep dirt and grime out of the assemblies and off of the shoes
  • Left-hand (driver's-side) brake assembly, right-hand (passenger's-side) brake assembly, and mounting bolts included
    • Nuts and lock washers sold separately
  • QAI and CSA certified


Specs:

  • Application: most standard hub-and-drum assemblies, including Dexter, Lippert (LCI), and AL-KO
  • Dimensions: 7" diameter x 1-1/4" wide
  • Mounting flange bolt pattern: 4 bolt
  • Wheel size: 10", 12", and 13"
  • Axle rating: 2,000 lbs
  • Limited 1-year warranty


Manual-Adjust Brakes

With repeated use of these brake assemblies, the brake shoes may move out of alignment, causing less efficient braking performance. To keep the brake shoes aligned and the brake assemblies performing correctly, you should perform routine maintenance.


These brake assemblies should be adjusted after installation and then as needed for the life of the brakes. To adjust the brakes, use a brake adjustment screw tool (sold separately) to turn the adjustment gear on the inside of the assemblies. Continue to turn the gear until the drum surrounding the brake catches on the brake pads enough so that the hub can no longer be turned easily by hand. Then reverse the gear by about 10 clicks. A properly adjusted brake should drag slightly on the brake drum.


Thoroughly Tested for Safety

These brake assemblies meet the requirements for certification by the Canadian Standards Association (CSA). The CSA creates standards, which when complied with ensure a safe and quality product. These brake assemblies underwent extensive testing to measure stopping distances when braking. These brakes have also been tested by QAI for braking performance in a complete automotive setup and under real-world conditions to provide the most realistic scenario for the everyday driver.


Automotive-Grade Friction Material

Each shoe on these brake assemblies is lined with automotive-grade friction material for improved stopping performance and longevity. The friction material is fully bonded onto the surface of the brake shoe. This lining is custom-molded for a perfect fit. The edges are tapered to ensure long-lasting performance. This taper, along with the circular grinding that the lining undergoes, helps to prevent cracking and crumbling. This durability helps to prevent mechanical lockup, which can occur when brake shoes are excessively worn or broken.


The friction material is also SAE-N certified, which means that it is an environmentally safe product that complies with California and Washington regulations regarding the composition of brake pads. As a result, this material not only provides high-performance braking that can endure the test of time, but it is also environmentally friendly and safe for use throughout the United States and Canada.



B07E-21 AxleTek 7" x 1 1/4" LH Electric Brake Assembly - Drivers Side - 2K Axles

B07E-22 AxleTek 7" x 1 1/4" RH Electric Brake Assembly - Passengers Side - 2K Axles






Video of Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 2,000 lbs


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for etrailer Electric Trailer Brake Kit Installation

Speaker 1: Today we'll be having a look at and showing you how to install the etrailer electric trailer brake kit with 7" diameter brakes for the left and right-hand assemblies for 2,000 axles, part number AKEBRK-2. Here's what our brakes look like installed on our trailer now. As you can see they rotate nice and smooth because of all the new bearings. We're going to take it out on our test course and show you what the trailer is like without having brakes on it and with having brakes on it, and you can see how big the difference is.When it's going down the road without trailer brakes you can see that there is nothing helping slow down the trailer. It's actually pushing your vehicle along. With brakes on it you can see how the trailer's tires are actually slowing down and not pushing the vehicle towing it.

It's causing it to slow down in a much more safer and controlled manner. Now the reason you're going to want these is if your trailer brakes are worn out you're not going to be able to stop smoothly or safely. And also in some states they do require by law that you have trailer brakes on trailer that weigh over a thousand pounds. A lot of small trailers out there that are lightweight, they don't come equipped with brakes on them from the factory. This is a great way to add them to your trailer so you can stay legal, stay safe at a cost-effective price.Okay, here's what our kit comes with.

We have a left-hand brake assembly and a right-hand brake assembly. This kit comes with both. If you need to purchase these individually we have them sold separately on our website. For the left-hand one you're looking at part number AKEBRK-2L, and for the right-hand one it's AKEBRK-2R. Now both of these assemblies are 100% new.

There's no re-manufactured parts here, everything you need to get functional brakes back on your trailer is here. We have brand-new magnets, brand-new adjuster arm here, brand-new springs, and, most importantly, brand-new shoes, which are fully-bonded to the surface of our shoe. These are not riveted in place, and by not having the rivets we have more contact patch with our drum to provide us longer life and better stopping ability. On the backside we have a brand-new backing plate with mounting studs, and this is e-coated so it'll resist corrosion over the course of time and offer us many years of service.These brake assemblies are designed to work with 2,000 pound axles. Now for a few measurements here, going across the full diameter of our drum from here at the widest part over here to the other widest part you're looking at 7".

This is designed to work with 7" drums. Now we'll measure how wide our shoe surface is. From one end of the shoe to the other you're looking at an inch and a quarter. Now these brake assemblies will require periodic manual adjustment as they start to wear down. You do that with your adjuster right here. This has a fine-tooth mechanism for precise settings so you can dial it in very smoothly so you can get the adequate braking ability that you want and prefer.To access this there's a rubber plug right here, which pulls off. Once you have the cover pulled off you can insert your flathead screwdriver or your brake spoon if you have one. You go down like this over the teeth. This will pull the adjuster out, spreading your shoes further out. As they start to wear you'll have better contact with the drum. If you find you adjusted it too much and you have too much drag, if you go back the other direction it'll bring the shoes back closer together, taking pressure off your drum.Now what's great about these assemblies is if your brake shoes are worn out on your trailer you don't have to worry about taking apart any of this assembly just to replace the shoes. You'll have all new shoes, all new springs, everything. It's always a good idea when replacing brake shoes on a trailer or a vehicle to always make sure you have new hardware, such as springs as well. This takes care of that for you. You have everything all ready to go. This will save you time installing it and save you money in the long run because it's an economically priced solution with everything you need on it.All right, to begin our install we have our trailer jacked up and safely supported with a set of jack stands, and we have our wheels removed. In our particular application on our trailer we don't have brakes on it currently. We just have an idler hub, so we need to remove this. We'll start off by removing our dust cap here, so use a flathead screwdriver to come behind it. Once we get it started we'll just work our way around till it comes off. Now at this point we're going to want some gloves and some paper towels. We're going to clean off all the grease around there with a towel so we can see what we're working with. We'll pry the keeper off with our flathead screwdriver. We can see how it's keyed, it'll only go in one way. This keeps our hub nut from coming loose. Now we'll remove our nut that holds our hub in place.Now we can just pull our hub straight off. Now we'll take our towels and just wipe our spindle until it's clean. We can take our brake assembly and we'll slide it onto our spindle and the studs on the backing plate will go through these corresponding holes on our axle flange. Now when we slide this on, since we're working on the passenger side, we'll make sure we have the right-hand assembly. We want to make sure our magnet is on the bottom. Now, nuts and lock washers are not included with our brake assemblies. They are required in order to mount them. We have a kit available on our website as part number BRKH7, which comes with the necessary eight nuts and eight lock washers. Okay, now we'll slide our lock washer on our stud, and we'll thread-on our nut. We'll do the same for all four, and now we'll tighten those nuts down with and 11/16 socket. Okay, now we'll snug down the nuts completely and make sure they're nice and tight.Now the reason you're going to want a new replacement drum assemblies is if you have bearings that have been worn out and had neglected maintenance, over time they can score the races inside your hub assembly to the point where they can't be reused. Replacing the races inside of a hub assembly is not the easiest thing to do. It's a lot easier just to have a new hub with a race already in it. Also, if your brakes have been worn out excessively and you've had metal-to-metal contact, your surface area here where the shoes contact could be deeply grooved or scored and damaged, and you won't have a smooth contact surface that maximizes how much friction material is actually touching your drum. That will affect your braking ability. By having a new surface you'll have maximum contact pattern with your shoes, providing you smooth and safe stops with less noise.Okay, the first thing that we're going to want to do is get our new wheel bearings packed in grease. What I like to do is wear gloves, put it inside my grease container and just work the grease in by spinning the bearing around in the grease. This will pack it full of grease inside and out. We have this grease available on our website if you need to purchase some. We even have marine grease available too if you're putting these brakes on a boat trailer or a trailer that sees excessive moisture. You can see how we have a grease ring all the way around our edges on both sides so we know we have it adequately packed.Okay, with the grease on it drop it down in. Now we'll pack the other bearing the same way. Now that we've placed our bearing in we'll install our seal. You can use a seal driver to do this, which we have available on our website, or you can use a block of wood. We'll show you both ways. Block of wood, you just sit on top and you'll tap it in until it sits flush with the end of your hub just like that. We'll show you on this one how to use the seal driver. That's what it looks like when you use a seal driver, and it sits flush.Now that we have both of our hubs ready, we'll slide them onto our spindles. Now we'll put our outer bearing in place. Now we'll place on our shim, it's keyed, only goes one way. Thread-on our nut now. Now what I like to do is spin the hub backwards as I tighten up the nut. Now we'll get our keeper in place. We may need to rotate the nut back a little bit for it to line up properly. We'll just tap it in. Now we'll replace our dust cap. I'm going to reuse the existing one that came on our trailer because our trailer has an easy-lube axle, and the dust cover has a cut out here which you can remove to insert a grease gun to lube your spindle.The replacement that comes with our hub is a solid piece. You'd have to remove the dust cover every time in order to lube your spindle. This one you don't have to do that, that's why we're reusing it. We'll take our cover, get it centered and lightly tap it in. Now we'll pop off the cover and we'll grease our spindle with a grease gun. Push the grease gun onto the fitting and I'll pump the handle until we get an adequate amount of grease coming out. Wipe off the excess grease and we'll place our plug back in place.Okay, now we find ourselves looking at the backside of our backing plate and we needed to start the process of adjusting our brakes. To do that there's a plug right here. We'll need to remove this. Use a flathead screwdriver. You can pop it loose. Now like we showed the adjuster earlier when we we're showing you the assemblies where we showed how to adjust it, we'll adjust it the same manner by sticking our screwdriver in the back side and rotating our wheel up. We'll do this until we achieve a light drag on the brakes, so we'll spin the brakes by hand until we feel resistance. Okay, you can hear it starting to drag and it's slowing down faster, so we'll keep doing this until we reach the desired feel. All right, right about there I can still rotate it by hand, but it stops almost instantly. That's the drag that we're looking for. We can take our plug and reinstall it. We'll repeat the same process for our driver side in putting our hub assembly on and adjusting the brakes to the proper drag level.Now the wires that come off our electric brake assembly for the magnet, we're going to strip off a little bit more insulation from both wires, twist it together nicely. We'll place on a heat shrink butt connector, which we have available on our website, and crimp the butt connector into place. Do the same for the other wire. Now since this is for a magnet it doesn't matter which wire is which when we attach our wires. One's ground and one's power. It doesn't matter which order.Okay, now we're going to connect our butt connectors to our duplex wire. What duplex means is there's actually two separate wires inside this jacketed cover. A white one and a black one, both these wires are 10 gauge. We have this available on our website as part number as 10-2-1. It is sold by the foot, so for however many feet you need order a quantity of that much. We'll take our wires here, utility knife, run down the middle. Peel back the insulation here and inside we find our two wires, black and white. Strip back the insulation from both wires, and, again, it does not matter which wire goes to what wire.Now, in order to shrink these down we'll use a heat gun that we have available on our website. The reason you want to use a heat gun is because it's a source of indirect heat and you don't run the risk of burning the butt connector like you do with a lighter. We went ahead and routed our duplex wire through a hole here next to our axle. It goes over towards our driver side on the axle. We have it secured with several zip ties along the way, and it comes out through the same hole that's right behind our hub assembly. We can connect our wires right there. All right, now we'll measure off how much of our duplex wire we're going to need, and we'll cut off the excess. Now we'll cut off our insulation again. We'll strip back the insulation.Now, this side's a little different. We're going to twist our wires onto the duplex wire that we brought over, so we'll just put one of the whites and one of the whites and we'll put the other one to the black. We'll put them into a butt connector together and we'll crimp it down. Now we'll twist the other one onto the black, place on our butt connector, crimp it. Okay, we have nice secure crimps on both of our wires. Now we'll take the other end of our left-over duplex wire, take off the sheathing again and strip back the insulation. Now we'll put this in the other end of our butt connectors. We'll just go black-to-black and white-to-white. It doesn't matter, but I like to color-code stuff as much as possible. We'll pull back on our wires and make sure they're crimped in there nice and good, and they are. Now we'll shrink down our butt connectors with our heat gun again.Okay, we've routed a wire back through our hole and zip tied it to our axle here where we stopped right below these electrical conduit lines. You can see where it hits a conduit above our axle, works it's way forward, comes under our frame here. It's zip tied up to this wiring bundle that goes into our junction box. Okay, we'll open up our junction box by undoing the two screws. Now there's a grommet on the bottom that we can use. We'll pull that open, we'll poke a hole in it, pass our duplex wires through that hole.Okay, now we'll measure off how much wire we're going to need to make our connections. This blue wire here, this is for our electric trailer brake output. This terminal all the way over here to the far right with all the white wires going to it, that's our ground. These are the two terminals that we're going to be using to make our connections. I'll measure off just how much we're going to need, cut off the excess. All right, I'm going to use our black wire for our output and the white wire for the ground because most white wires are ground. They just look better that way in my opinion.Now we'll use some of these small yellow ring terminals, which slide over our studs in our junction box, and I'll crimp these onto our connectors. We have these available on our website if you'd like to purchase one. We'll use a socket to remove the nut from the brake output terminal first. Okay, once we have the nut off the blue terminal we'll slide over our black wire and reinstall the nut, and we'll tighten it back down. I'll do the same for the white wire on the ground terminal. We'll slide our grommet back into place now.Now because many states require a breakaway system when their brakes are on a trailer we're going to be installing one. We're using the Hopkins Engager system. This is a breakaway system that has your switch, a batter, which has a built-in charging feature. This is part number 20099 on our website. Here we are on the driver side of our trailer next to our coupler. We need to find a place to mount our breakaway switch. Right here in this area will be fine. We'll drill a small pilot hole and get it marked. Take the breakaway switch down so it don't damage the wires, potentially, and we'll drill in the channel. We use a self-tapping screw to go into that pilot hole. Place the switch back over the hole and run the screw in all the way. Okay, that gives us a nice solid mount for our breakaway switch.Okay, now we need to find a place to mount our battery box. Inside the storage compartment for our propane tank and battery right here is a great spot. We're just going to drop this down, stick it through there. We'll run the wires through the expanded metal. Now we'll drop down a couple of screws, and we'll go underneath and use some fender washers and nuts to hold it in place. Now we'll get an extra set of hands, one to hold the screw in place at top with a screwdriver while we tighten up the nut on the bottom with a socket and a ratchet.Okay, our white and black wire we routed over here to our seven-way connector wire and zip tied it and routed it over towards our junction box. Okay, we'll pass those wires in through the grommet as well. We'll cut off our excess wire, the white wire is a ground. We'll go back to our white wire terminal over here. The black wire will go to our 12 volt power feed, which is this wire right here, the red wires. Place on a ring terminal, and we'll crimp that. We'll move the nut from the terminal for our ground, place the white wire on over the stud, reinstall the nut and tighten that back down.Our black wire, we'll measure off how much we need to connect to this terminal here. This is our constant 12 volt source of power. Strip back our insulation, place on a ring terminal, crimp that down, remove that nut. Place the terminal onto that stud. Now the black wire for our breakaway switch we routed along the same path as our white and black wires we did from the breakaway battery along our seven-way cord. We'll insert this through the grommet as well. We'll measure off how much we need to connect here to the blue wire side for our electric brake trailer output terminal in our junction box. Cut off our excess, strip this on back. We'll remove that nut now, place our ring terminal on with a stud, reinstall the nut, tighten it back down.Now we need to combine our blue wire from our breakaway switch to the blue wire from the breakaway box. We'll just hold them together as we measure off how much we're going to need and cut both of them simultaneously. We'll strip back the insulation from both ends and we use a blue heat shrink butt connector, which we have available on our website. Now we'll use our heat gun to shrink down the butt connector. With that done that completes all of our electrical connections for the breakaway system. We'll replace our cover now.Okay, now we have everything put together and wired up. We'll reinstall our tires and get back on the road. That completes our look at and installation of the etrailer electric trailer brake kit 7" in diameter for the left and right-hand assemblies for 2,000 pound axles, part number AKEBRK-2.


Customer Reviews

Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 2,000 lbs - AKEBRK-2

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (44 Customer Reviews)

Driver's-side and passenger's-side electric brakes measure 7" x 1-1/4". Brake pads are made of durable friction material for improved braking and longevity. E-coated backing plates resist rust. Fit 10" to 13" wheels.

- AKEBRK-2

by:


E trailer did a fantastic job. Before order: Technical support / help was excellent. Goal, conversion of a 1998 Floe snowmobile trailer from surge to electric brakes. Problem, due to time and corrosion, I could only supply partial part numbers, spindle diameter. etrailer did a fantastic job, researching, and getting me the correct part numbers, so I could order. Julie did a great job. She was very timely, communicated clearly and honestly, and just “kept me in the loop”. I received the order came on the projected date, complete and undamaged. Excellent. I would highly recommend etrailer, for your part needs. 439115



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Product fit and performed as advertised. For the price and quality, this is one sweet deal. Kevin D. was the person I dealt with, and I found him to be knowledgeable regarding this product. I was surprised that he even sent me an email stating that he had seen that it was delivered (on the same evening that it was!), and asked if I had any questions about the items. This is over the top service that you just can't find very often. So, would I buy from them again, and will I recommend? The answer is absolutely, yes! Don't waste your time looking elsewhere, as you've come to the right place. 367690



- AKEBRK-2

by:


one of the brake assemblies was missing a few parts (spring and clip that hold the magnet in place). Contacted the very courteous staff at etrailer and they sent me a replacement. They requested that I ship the defective part back to them and provided an email with a link to print a copy of the pre-paid return shipping label to print out. I think the return shipping label should have been included in the box with the replacement brake assembly as I don't have a printer at this location. I was very pleased with their service and friendly staff. 471512



- AKEBRK-2

by:


The products I received from your company we're very good. Your service was outstanding! This also includes the brake controller, wiring harness, and 7 pin connector that I also bought from y'all. Thank you very much Diana H for helping me pick out the correct items that I needed. If all of your representatives carry themselves as you did ,you have got a winning team at etrailer. I will be definitely be ordering all of my products for my camper, and my work trailer from etrailer. Thank you again , sincerely, Jim 470583



- AKEBRK-2

by:


After one year still the trailer working good. I took my vintage HiPoint fiberglass Motocross, and added an additional pair of brakes. 2 axles, just one set of brakes from the factory as the trailer was so light, as the other axle had the mounting plate, for back up I figured it was a good insurance. Everything fit, bearings backing plates, and the drums tracked correctly behind the originals. Also added vents on both sides as there were none in it. 521806



- AKEBRK-2

by:


These look just as good or better than the Dexter original brakes. Fit perfect and worked flawlessly. Now I just have to fix cross threaded axle the manufacturer ruined on one of my axles. BTW my original Dexter brakes only lasted 2 years. Pads weren't worn but electric wiring frayed and broken and the electric brake drag was worn very uneven and had no clamping force, thus no brakes at all. Will definitely buy again if the need arises. 379819



- AKEBRK-2

by:


First purchase but not the last. Got them super quick and fit perfectly. Linda was awsome and a true asset for the company. I'd recommend E-Trailer to everyone for any and all trailer needs. 539498



- AKEBRK-2

by:


I received these brakes today and have not put them on yet. They do appear to be very well made though. The only complaint I have with them is that they do not come with nuts for the mounting studs. I prefer to use all new hardware instead of the used, rusty nuts from the old brakes. I'll just spend .50 cents at the hardware store tomorrow and get new nuts. 497178



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Kyle The parts I received were a perfect match. Your video tutorials are absolutely indispensable! After you answered my question I was able to resolve the problem and my brake install is now complete and the brakes are working perfectly. Great doing business with you guys. It doesn't hurt that your prices are the best either. Thanks. Ricardo 516091



- AKEBRK-2

by:


All products are as advertised and good quality. Shipping box was very good also. Only had one issue with order being shipped to my PO Box which UPS did not deliver too. But customer service were very quick to correct. And even received order fairly fast considering I live in Alaska. Will order from this company again! 556216



- AKEBRK-2

by:


great service! I ordered a set of electric trailer brakes, a small clip and spring were missing from one of the magnets. The parts were probably in the box which I disposed of before I noticed they were missing. l contacted e trailer and they swiftly replaced the parts. 569668



- AKEBRK-2

by:


I would just like to say that these brakes fit and replaced my hydraulic brakes very nicely . Installation was easy as was the adjustment of them. I have not applied power to them yet because I still need to run some wireing but I'm sure everything will work fine. 386513



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Brakes arrived ahead of time. They fit perfectly and were easy to install. I saved the old bolts and they worked fine. Wish I had noticed the hardware kit, new is always nice. Easy to order and customer service knew their stuff. Great Job! I'm sold! Wes H. 445078



- AKEBRK-2

by:


I haven’t installed them yet, but opened the packaging to ensure all parts were there. I only wish there were four nuts included for the brakes plate. I will take one to the hardware store to get the required hardware. Everything else looks great! 569149



- AKEBRK-2

by:


A local dealer said these 7" brakes were hard to find. Not here. The price was right and they installed easily. Since I am still doing other work to the trailer I have not pulled it yet, but see no reason why these should not work just fine. 513092



- AKEBRK-2

by:


I installed these brakes on Lippert axles and they worked seamlessly. I have not taken the trailer onto the road yet but the construction and pads on the replacement brakes appear to be very similar to the Dexter components they replaced. 567008



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Application was easy. I had already removed old assembly so when these arrived it was bolt on, hook up the wiring and was on the road. Time will tell how well they hold up but it looked solid and for my pop-up they supplied ample braking. 407812



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Needed electric brakes on my Scamper pop up camper 1997, to tow with my Subaru (needs brakes over 1 000 lbs). These fit perfectly. Easy to install and a breeze when you drive. 386626


Comments

Thank you for asking. I am very happy with my purchase. Worked great last summer and I look forward to taking the road again with my Skamper camper and feeling secure. Have a great summer

Louise G - 05/29/2018

39028

- AKEBRK-2

by:


I can stop again! They were an exact replacement for my existing brakes and very easy to install. I also received them 3 days after I ordered them - wow! Thanks etrailer! 543644



- AKEBRK-2

by:


No issues with delivering the brakes. Good quality and very easy to install. Really happy I bought them. Now I can feel the brakes of my camper actually working. 391520



- AKEBRK-2

by:


As stated before, we had good quality units to choose that were the exact match to what we needed! Keep up the nice selection and the videos for people to use. 399054



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Just what I was looking for. Installed in a manner of minutes. Loved the videos that confirm how to do a proper installation. Great job! 479505



- AKEBRK-2

by:


I had to convert hydraulic brakes to electric. These were the perfect replacement. Bolted right in place with no issues. 521196



- AKEBRK-2

by:


The web site was easy to use, the order was shipped quickly, and the parts were correct and fit like the original. 574031



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Good price and they look to be good quality. Installed easy enough. We'll see how they hold up in the long run. 438837



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Great seller, product is as described and great price. This item bolted right on to my existing axle. 364177



- AKEBRK-2

by:


My parts shipped quick with consistent notifications and were exactly what I needed at a good price. 557323



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Great price and great product. Wish they came nuts and washers, but at this price not an issue. 434820



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Worked great and went on very easy. Feels a lot better to tow a trailer with brakes!! 519528



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Installed easily enough, the install video for wiring helped make it a simple process. 369779



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Arrived on time and in great condition, very well packaged. I haven't installed yet. 458510



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Quick delivery. Easy to install. Brakes still squeal though. Seems to work well. 506519



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Exactly what I needed. Outstanding speed of delivery, two days!! Thank you 476544



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Great price! Great shipping- free and it arrived the next day! Thanks 509671



- AKEBRK-2

by:


real good brake kit & good price & very fast shipping very happy 458592



- AKEBRK-2

by:


well made fit perfect no complaints here shipping was very fast 495154



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Fit like a the oem , hope they last longer than the oem’s 472024



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Exactly as described online, fits the trailer perfectly. 511988



- AKEBRK-2

by:


On time delivery great price on hold brake assembly 426384


Comments

Great product working great

CG - 08/29/2018

42951

- AKEBRK-2

by:


Easy to order. Super quick ship. Go price. A+ 569428



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Good quality would use trailer again 446169



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Perfect fit and easy to install. 493606



- AKEBRK-2

by:


exact replacement, fit perfect 555373



- AKEBRK-2

by:


Very easy to use 459124



- AKEBRK-2R

by:

Review from a similar etrailer Standard 7 Inch in Trailer Brakes


Perfect bolt on fit. The only thing different from the original OEM brake assembly on my RV was the coil retainer clips are a different design, but that doesn't affect the way they work. Only issue was during shipping a couple of those clips popped off the actuator arms, so the coils came loose from the assembly, and the coil springs were in the box loose, easy to reassemble though. Need a way to restrain the coils from bouncing up and down during shipping. So be careful of loose parts, removing packaging when unboxing these. I will be buying new hubs/ drums from eTrailer soon. GREAT Company, GREAT people. Brakes were bought to replace original brakes on a 1998 Jayco Hawk TT Model 24 RK with dual Dexter axles that my wife and I restored. 253569



- AKEBRK-2L

by:

Review from a similar etrailer Standard 7 Inch in Trailer Brakes


PARTS ARRIVED A DAY AHEAD OF TIME: PERFECT JUST GOT DONE INSTALLING. NICE SET OF BRAKES. 235296


Comments

We took the trailer on a trip a week ago brakes working perfectly. great set of brakes thanks again

DENNIS D - 01/13/2017

22212

- AKEBRK-2R

by:

Review from a similar etrailer Standard 7 Inch in Trailer Brakes


Outstanding product and installs literally in minutes once you get the old ones off! Very reasonable pricing and speedy delivery. 239351


Comments

I actually replaced the brakes on my snowmobile trailer in preparation to sell it so I no longer have it. They worked great though.*

Rodger B - 03/13/2017

22826

- AKEBRK-2L

by:

Review from a similar etrailer Standard 7 Inch in Trailer Brakes


The parts came as expected. Fit was excellent. Finish was also better than expected. I was able to reuse the nuts that hold them to the axel. It would have been nice if the description indicated that the studs were metric, as I purchased SAE threaded nuts ahead of time. One other suggestion would be to partially strip the lead wires and leave the cut insulation in place to prevent the ends from fray during and shipping. The value (price compare) was excellent. Would buy again for sure. 333241



- AKEBRK-2R

by:

Review from a similar etrailer Standard 7 Inch in Trailer Brakes


The parts came as expected. Fit was excellent. Finish was also better than expected. I was able to reuse the nuts that hold them to the axel. It would have been nice if the description indicated that the studs were metric, as I purchased SAE threaded nuts ahead of time. One other suggestion would be to partially strip the lead wires and leave the cut insulation in place to prevent the ends from fray during and shipping. The value (price compare) was excellent. Would buy again for sure. 336061



- AKEBRK-2L

by:

Review from a similar etrailer Standard 7 Inch in Trailer Brakes


Upon inspection these look extremely well built. Installation took about 15 minutes each. As it is winter here in Northern Minnesota, I won't know how well they perform for a couple months yet since they are on my boat trailer. I don't think there will be any problems. Great product. 335398


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Brakes
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  • Comparison of Dexter and etrailer 7 Inch Brake Assemblies for Trailers with 2,000 Pound Axles
  • The Dexter # 23-47-48 and etrailer # AKEBRK-2 brake assemblies are just that. The same part made by two different companies. They're both 7 inch brake assemblies for 2,000 pound axles. Both the left and right hand brakes are included and labeled to make it easier to install. The etrailer brand does include the mounting bolts where the Dexter does not. For mounting bolts use # 7-75. Neither of them include the Mounting Hardware # BRKH7.
    view full answer...

  • Comparing 7 inch Trailer Brake Assembly Brands
  • For the trailer brake assembly size of 7 inch by 1-1/4 inch we have two brands. We have the Dexter brand which many refer to as the nicest on the market, and we have our etrailer.com house brand of assemblies. Which are also great, but since they are our brand we are able to offer them at a really hard to beat price. So the Dexter kit part # 23-47-48 will fit and work great on your trailer, but for a set that will work just as well and at a much better price the part # AKEBRK-2 would...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Electric Brakes for Palomino Trailer with AL-KO 8440 Hubs
  • Based on my research, the etrailer.com Electric Trailer Brake Kit # AKEBRK-2 referenced in your question will indeed be the correct assemblies to replace the brakes for your AL-KO 8440 hubs. These are 7 inch x 1-1/4 inch brake assemblies and are designed for 2,000 pound axles. The kit includes both the Left Hand and Right Hand assembly. They are designed to fit a 4 bolt mounting flange bolt pattern, so you will just want to ensure that your mounting flange uses 4 bolts. I have attached...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Hub and Drums and Brake Assemblies for 2004 Fleetwood Yuma Camper
  • Your 8257 hubs are # 8-257-5UC3-EZ. If you'd like to verify these check your bearing numbers. They should be # L44649 for both inner and outer. The hub and drum assembly is a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern for 2,000 pound axles. It includes the bearings, races, seal, grease cap, wheel bolts and lug nuts. For replacement brakes use # AKEBRK-2. This includes both left and right hand side brake assemblies. They're marked as such because they are side specific.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Hubs And Electric Brake Assemblies For Tandem Axle Snow Bird Snowmobile Trailer
  • You can add electric brakes to both axles of your Snow Bird Snowmobile Trailer. To do so you will need new drums only on the axles that don't currently have brakes. You may be able to use your current surge brake hubs for your electric brake assemblies, but often electric hubs on this smaller size require a change due to thickness of the hub. For your hubs, I recommend the Trailer Hub & Drum Assembly - 2,200 lbs. Axles - 4 on 4 # 8-173-16UC3. For your electric brake assemblies, I...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Least Expensive Brakes For 2000 lb 2-Jetski Trailer
  • For your 2 jetski trailer, the least expensive way to add brakes is an electric brake. To do this, I recommend adding the Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 2,000 lbs # AKEBRK-2. This will mount to your axle flange using hardware # BRKH7. You will need a brake adjustment tool like # W80630 for this installation and maintenance. For your hubs, if you have 4 on 4 inch bolt pattern wheels, you will need # 8-276-5. If you have 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Components To Add Electric Brakes To 1997 Coleman Destiny Pop-Up Camper
  • It looks like you have really been spending some time putting together the components you need to install electric brakes on your camper. The # AKHD-545-2-2K hub and drum will work on your camper but you will need to replace the 10-9 seals included with the kit with # 13194 seals. The brakes you mentioned, # AKEBRK-2 will work great with the hub and drum. Since you said you have a 4-bolt brake flange the # BRKH7 brake mounting hardware will also work for you. The breakaway...
    view full answer...

  • How to Find Replacement Electric Brake Assemblies for 1994 Fleetwood Mallard
  • In order to choose the correct electric brake assemblies for your 1994 Fleetwood Mallard, you will want to determine a couple of things. You will first want to determine the axle capacity on your trailer. This should be listed on a plate located somewhere on the axle itself. It looks like your trailer should have a weight of between 3,300 and 4,500 pounds, depending on your specific model. I also found that it has two axles. Once you determine the specific axle capacities, you can filter...
    view full answer...

  • How To Find Correct Brake System Replacements For 1990s Hurst Trailer
  • There are a few ways to find the right system for your trailer. The easiest is to look on the trailer axle for a sticker or plate that says what the capacity is. Then you can measure your brake drum to find the right size. I have attached a photo of a drum you can check out that shows where you need to measure. Once you have the measurements for the brakes you need you can go to the attached product page and use the filters to find the brakes that will work for you. If the insides...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Brake Assemblies for 1995 Coleman Fleetwood Utah Pop-up Camper
  • If your drums are 7 inches, then you will want the Electric Trailer Brake Kit - 7" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 2,000 lbs # AKEBRK-2. Many people upgraded those trailers and added a 3500 lb axle, so if you have 10 inch hubs, you will want # AKEBRK-35-SA instead. If you need wiring, I recommend # 10-2-1 for your brake wiring and then the Epicord 7-Way Molded Trailer Plug with Junction Box - 10' Long # 277-000141 for easy and clean connections. The ring terminals # 44-5310A make...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Brake Shoes for Electric Brakes
  • The brake shoes you need are going to depend on the diameter of your current assemblies and the weight capacity of your axle. The # AKBRKR-S-10 are replacement brake shoes for 10" diameter x 2-1/4" thick manual-adjust, electric trailer brake assemblies on a 3,500 lb axle. I took a look at the previous assemblies you purchased, and they were 7" assemblies for 2,000 lb axles. Since yours are automatic adjusting, the correct brake shoes would be # AKBRKR-S-7 which are for 7" diameter x...
    view full answer...

  • What Parts Are Needed to Add Electric Brakes to a Trailer with a 2,000 Lb Axle
  • In order to install electric brakes on your trailer you will need a brake mounting flange, brake assembly, hub/drum, trailer wiring, breakaway kit, and brake controller. I have attached my recommendations on each of the following for you below: Brake Mounting Flange: part # 4-34 (2) Brake Assembly: part # AKEBRK-2 Hub/Drum: part # AKHD-545-2-EZ-2K (2) Trailer Wiring: part # ET7WK Breakaway System part # 20099 Brake Controller: part # 90885 In order to be sure the above...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Add Brakes to 1997 Coleman Cheyenne Trailer
  • We have just what you need. Thank you for all the info you gave me as that makes my job much easier. First you have to start with hub/drums that fit the spindle. For that you'd want the # AKHD-545-2-EZ-2K which will fit your spindle based on the bearing dimensions you have. It also has a bolt pattern of 5 on 4-1/2 inch. There are only manual adjusting assemblies available in the size you'd need though since they are smaller. For a kit that included both the left and right you'd want...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed to Add Electric Drum Brakes to Trailer
  • The linked article gives you a recap of what is needed to add brakes to a trailer. Since your trailer's 2200-lb axle already has brake flanges installed, adding brakes to it will require you to select left- and right-hand brake assemblies and hubs/drums to replace your idler hubs. The new hubs have to use the same inner and outer bearing as your old hubs to ensure they will fit on your existing spindles. Check the mounting bolt pattern on the flanges to ensure they match the 4-bolt pattern...
    view full answer...


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Info for this part was:

Edited by:
Lindsey S
Expert Research:
Michael H
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Expert Research:
Adam R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Written by:
Alexander C
Installed by:
Brent H
Photos by:
Jeffrey L

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