1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
  3. Bearings
  4. Standard Bearings
  5. 3500 lbs Axle
  6. 1.378 Inch I.D.
Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149

Item # L68149
lowest price pledge
Our Price: $7.80
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Orders above $99 qualify for Free Shipping
Shipping Weight: 0.33 lbs
Quantity: 
In Stock
L68149 - 1.378 Inch I.D. etrailer Bearings
zoom in icon
slider vertical icon
zoom out icon
Comment field cannot be left empty.
Name field cannot be left empty.

Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.

Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.

Product Images

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149 part number L68149 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
  • All Info
  • Reviews (158)
  • Q & A (586)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L68149

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 1.378 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L68149
  • Race L68111

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.378"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L68111
  • Application: inner bearing for #84 spindle


L68149 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149 - L68149

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (158 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L68149
by:

Don't do what I did...spend 2 weeks trying to find the right parts locally, and end up trying to use a 67 Chevy seal on a 2002 boat trailer...it doesn't work. Just order the right stuff from etrailer.com and save yourself a lot of time, money, and hassle. If you just absolutely have to go the auto parts store, their brake cleaner is pretty handy for removing grease from the trailer parts without removing the paint. 610456



- L68149
by:

Everything I needed was easy to identify and order through the etrailer.com site, and the order arrived quickly. The information and how-to videos were very helpful, and assisted me in getting my project completed easily. I wouldn't hesitate to use the site again, or to recommend to anyone needing parts for their trailer. 522477



- L68149
by:

859835



- L68149
by:

Great customer service and support. Made it easy to get what I needed to get my trailer back on the roads quickly!! 856119



- L68149
by:

Fit as expected. No problems. 849449



- L68149
by:

Ordered a 10”brake kit and bearings for my boat trailer, it all came in quick and bolted right up. Paula was a big help in getting my order straight for me! Thanks 852288



- L68149
by:

I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time. 831087



- L68149
by:

Bearing felt smooth, just grease and in stall 825534



- L68149
by:

Product arrived quickly . The whole process was smooth and easy. Bearings and saels fit as expected. I will purchase from etrailer again. 822059



- L68149
by:

Installed these bearings and races on my trailer after failure of the manufacture bearings failed because they saved money by not properly lubing at the factory. These have held up well putting on over 40,000 miles and proper lubrication. 807207



- L68149
by:

I am reviewing the components and etrailer as they are not installed yet. Online ordering was easy - I was contacted immediately with shipping time and tracking numbers - it all went really well. The components showed up on time and in good condition. The boxes were a little hammered but UPS does that. Thanks etrailer good service - good prices: what else do you want? 805052



- L68149
by:

Received excellent handling and delivery of my recent order 802654



- L68149
by:

This is just what I ordered everything came together and on time. I have yet to replace the grease seals but they match just what I had 791373



- L68149
by:

Fantastic company. Very knowledgeable associates with great customer service. I look forward to dealing with etrailer again. 785202



- L68149
by:

Purchased and received in record time! Thanks! 776889



- L68149
by:

Great service! Brenden C did an excellent job of finding the right parts for my trailer and even upgraded the shipping at no extra cost. I highly recommend etrailer! 756082



- L68149
by:

fast shipping and these people were great help finding the right parts highly recommend 749349



- L68149
by:

Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend 738071



- L68149
by:

Perfect fit 718965



- L68149
by:

Perfect fit good price. 706061



- L68149
by:

Great product fast shipping 705449



- L68149
by:

I keep a complete set of bearings in my repair kit. These are excellent quality and outlast items obtained from TSC or Northern Tool. You can clean them after use, repack them with grease and they’re ready to go for round two. 698844



- L68149
by:

product and service --couldn't ask for more !!! super fast delivery !!! 695076



- L68149
by:

Thanks James, Received all the products Friday! All parts were correct went together just as I planned... Thanks!!!! 693961



- L68149
by:

Bought as a spare but appears to be good quality. 683635


25
158
Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Inner and Outer Bearing and Grease Seal for Older Trailer
    We carry bearings, races and a seal that are very, very close to your measurements but not exact. For example, the inside bearing we carry is # L68149 and it has a 1.378" inner diameter; the correct race for this is # L68111. For the outer bearing we carry # L44649 which has a 1.063" inner diameter and the matching race is # L44610. Finally there is the grease seal, for which we carry # 58846 which has an inner diameter of 1.719". You could get all of these parts together...
    view full answer...
  • Can 6 Lug Hubs be Replaced With 8 Lug Hubs on Toy Hauler
    It is likely you can replace the 6 lug hubs with 8 lug hubs on your 2018 Livin' Lite Quicksilver 8.5x26FBR with 4,400 lb axles so long as you can ensure compatibility with your spindle. To do this you will need to know your bearing numbers and grease seal inner diameter. The easiest way to do this is call the manufacturer with your VIN, as they should have this information due to how new your toy hauler is. From the information you gave there is a pretty good chance you will have inner...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal for the EZ Loader Kit 300-015907
    The bearings, races, and grease seal that are included in the EZ Loader bearing kit 300-015907 that you referenced are found as parts # L68149, # L68111, # L44649, # L44610, and # 168255TB.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub Needed for Dexter Axle 8-256
    Your Dexter Axle hub 8-256 should use an # L68149 inner bearing and an # L44649 outer bearing which means you have a #84 spindle and you'll use one of the following hubs: 5 on 4-1/2" - part # 84545BX 5 on 4-3/4" - part # 845475UC1 5 on 5" - part # 84550BX 5 on 5-1/2" - part # 84555UC1 Just match up the bolt pattern and you'll be good to go! I've attached some helpful articles on bolt patterns that you can check out if you aren't sure what you have.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter 8-245 Hub
    Based on my research your Dexter 8-245 hub is a 3,500 lb hub that and the correct replacement inner bearing is part # L68149 with the matching race being part # L68111. The correct replacement outer bearing is part # L44649 and the matching race is part # L44610.
    view full answer...
  • Bearings for a Dexter Trailer Hub 8-222
    I called Dexter Axle and they were able to inform me that your Dexter Trailer Hub 8-222 uses a part # L68149 inner bearing, part # L68111 inner race, part # LM67048 outer bearing, part # LM67010 outer race, and a part # 10-40 grease seal. Unfortunately, we don't have a bearing kit with all of these parts for you so they will need to be purchased separately.
    view full answer...
  • How to Select Spare Bearings and Seals for Aluma Trailer with 3500-lb Torsion Axle
    It is a very good idea to keep spare bearings and seals (and wheel bearing grease too) on hand for the unexpected roadside stop. We have individual bearing and seal parts like # L68149, # L44649 and # 58846 as well as kits like # BK2-100 that combine these popular parts. This kit happens to include the bearing and seal parts above and all are commonly used on 3500-lb axles. You can refer to the linked help articles for more information on bearings and how to replace them. The best way...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races, Seals, Brake Drums and Brake Assemblies for 4400 lb Axle
    The spindles used on the 4400 axle are compatible with the # L67048 Inner bearing and # LM67010 race and the # L44649 Outer bearing and # L44610 race, along with the 10-19 grease seal, part # RG06-050. You'll want to confirm this by pulling one of the hubs to check the reference numbers off of your current bearings. For brakes, you'd need a 10 x 2-1/4 inch brake assembly. I'd recommend a Nev-r-adjust assembly, part # K23-478-479 for the right and left sides. Typically, it's recommended...
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Replacements for AL-KO T44 Trailer Axles
    The Al-KO T44 axle uses the bearings # L68149 inner bearing and # LM67048 outer bearing. For the seal you'd need the part # RG06-050 and you'd be set.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine Replacement Bearings and Seal for 3,500 lb EZ Loader Axle with Oil Bath Hub
    Typically for a 3,500 lb axle you will see an inner bearing # L68149 (race # L68111), outer bearing # L44649 (race # L44610), and then a grease seal that has inner and outer dimensions of 1.719" and 2.565" respectively. Since all of our oil bath seals are a bit larger than that I'll need you to use a digital caliper like # 301-17068 to measure your spindle where the seal rides, as well as your hub where your seal rides to ensure we get the correct replacement for you. When it comes...
    view full answer...
  • Can Dexter 8-222 Hub be Replaced with 6 on 5-1/2 Inch Hub on Tandem 4 Ton Trailer
    I did some research on your Dexter 8-222 Hub and was able to find the inner and outer bearing numbers as well as the grease seal used. It looks like this particular hub was designed for mobile homes and these, for the most part, have more unique bearings and bolt patterns because they are technically manufactured for one time use only and not meant to be altered or replaced. Because of this, there is unfortunately not a 6 on 5-1/2 inch hub available that will be compatible with your...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Seals and Bearings for 4,400 lb Axle
    We have the bearings and seals you would need for your 4,400 lb axle. It would be inner bearing # L68149 with race # L68111, outer bearing # LM67048 with race # LM67010 and grease seal # RG06-050. You can find the prices of these parts on their product pages. I've added links of video reviews of these products for you to take a look at as well.
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Replacement Hub for UFP Hub Marked H-1377 A4E
    I can help you pick out the correct hub, but we don't have a cross-reference part number for the one you listed. In order to pick out the correct hub assembly for a trailer you are going to need know a few key pieces of information. The first thing you will need to know is the bolt pattern of your hubs. This is so you get a hub that is compatible with your wheels. I attached an FAQ article on determining bolt pattern for you to check out. Next thing you will need to know is what spindle...
    view full answer...
  • How to Select Replacement 10-Inch Hub/Drums for 1997 EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    We can help you select replacement 10-inch hubs for your 1997 EZ-Loader boat trailer. You will want to pull your inner and outer bearings to get their part numbers as this is the easiest and surest way to confirm the correct fit for your new hub/drums. New hubs must use the same bearings in order for them to fit on your current spindles. You can refer to the linked diagram to see where to find part numbers on your inner and outer bearings. With those in hand you can then click on...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub, Bearings, Races, and Seals for Trailer Hub with H-1377 Bearing
    First, it does sound like, based on the measurement and information you have provided, that race # L68110, is correct since its outer diameter is 2.327 inches. This race is associated with bearing # L68149 which has an inner diameter of 1.378 inches and fits a number 84 spindle. On these spindles the diameter where the seal goes is 1.73 inches such as # R40484. The seal should be a tight fit. I once had a heck of a time pulling a hub off of a trailer that was held on by the seal only!...
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Replacement Hub for 2016 Magic Tilt Trailer
    In order to pick out the correct hub assembly for a trailer you are going to need know a few key pieces of information. The first thing you will need to know is the bolt pattern of your hubs. This is so you get a hub that is compatible with your wheels. I attached an FAQ article on determining bolt pattern for you to check out. Next thing you will need to know is what spindle you have on your trailer. In order to do that you can either get the inner and outer bearing numbers from a hub...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seals for Boat Trailer with Inner Bearing L68149
    The hub grease seal you can use for a hub with inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649 is part # RG06-050. This is a set of two double-lip seals with an inner diameter of 1.719-inches and an outer diameter of 2.565-inches. You'll need to order two kits. These seals fit 3500-lb axles.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings Kit for Wells Cargo Tote Wagon
    E-Z Lube spindles that have the grease zerk fitting on the end like yours don't use a cotter pin because it would interfere with the grease running through the spindle. Instead they use a tang washer, like part # 5-101, which you should have. From your measurements it sounds like you have a popular # 84 spindle which uses bearings # L68149 and # L44649 for the inner and outer respectively. Verify with the bearings you have and if they're correct the kit you need is part # BK2-100 which...
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure Trailer Spindle and Hub to Determine Dimensions for Grease Seal
    Your description of your boat trailer's grease seals sounds like you have double-lip type seals which are preferred, especially for boat trailers, since they do the best job of repelling water. Although I could not cross-reference your seal part number to find a current equivalent I can help you with measuring your spindles and hub bore to find one that will fit. Please refer to the linked diagram. You will need to measure your spindle at the point B on the diagram to get the inner diameter...
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure to Confirm Bearing and Spindle Compatibility
    The parts you referenced, tapered roller bearing # L68149 and idler hub assembly # 84545BX, do work together; the that bearing is the inner bearing for this hub. The bearing's inner diameter is 1.378-inches and it fits a #84 spindle like # R40484. To confirm a fit on your spindle you will need to measure the spindle diameter to three decimal places, to the nearest thousandth of an inch, using a digital caliper like # PTW80157.
    view full answer...
  • How to Identify Correct Replacement Bearings for EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    The manufacturer of a trailer can sometimes confirm specific parts using the trailer's VIN but the best way to know what replacement bearings and seals you need is to pull one of the hubs and to remove those parts. Then it is usually easy to find the bearing and seal part numbers and to then search our site with those part numbers. The linked diagram shows the typical appearance of these part numbers. As a means to double-check you can refer to the linked article that lists common sets...
    view full answer...
  • How to Protect Replacement Trailer Bearings for Long-Term Storage
    If you want to store replacement bearings for an extended period until you need them I recommend coating them with the same wheel bearing grease you will eventually pack into them, like # L11380, and placing them in a zip-lock type plastic bag to keep out moisture and dust. Coating the bearings with grease and using an air-tight bag will keep them in like-new condition for years. You can even squeeze most of the air out of the bag before sealing it.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Brakes and Bearings Kit for 2004 Fleetwood Sequoia
    From my research I'm guessing your 2004 Fleetwood Sequoia has a 3,500 pound axle and uses bearings # L68149 and # L44649. You'll want to verify your bearing numbers to be sure. If the bearings are correct the kit you need is # BK2-100. Or if you want hubs as well use # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K if you have E-Z Lube axles that have a zerk fitting or # AKHD-545-35-K for standard axles. The hubs have a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern which you'll need to make sure is matches your trailer. The brakes...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Trailer Grease Seal for an NOK AD2527E Seal on a Boat Mate Trailer
    To replace your NOK AD2527E seal you can use # 168233. It has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches. Based on what I could find on the NOK AD2527E the inner diameter is the same and the outer diameter is 2.328 inches. So it will be a tight fit but no other seal is even close.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Hub/Drum For UFP Boat Trailer
    The race you mentioned in your hub is for bearing # L68149 which is a common size. The inside diameter of that bearing is what matters most as other races can be used with different hubs without issue. The spindle measurements are the ones that need to match. It sounds like you have a standard 3500 lb axle that the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 3,500-lb Axles - 10" Diameter - 5 on 4-1/2 # AKHD-545-35-K will fit. The race makes the bearing compatible with the hub, so you don't need...
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings/Races for a Wesco Boat Trailer
    There are two ways to determine what would be the correct bearings/races you would need for a trailer hub. Once way is to remove the hub and get the numbers stamped on the bearings/races/seal. The other is to pull the hub and then using a micrometer get the dimensions off of the spindle and hub bore so that you can determine what would work based on that. See the picture I attached to see what needs to get measured and what the numbers should look like.
    view full answer...
  • What is the Difference Between Trailer Hub Race L68110 and L68111
    Both races you mentioned are related to the same bearing, # L68149. The difference in the races is the outer diameter. The outer diameter is important for the hub that the race fits so because the hub bore in the rotors is different than the hubs you have, they each take different races. In other words, it will work just fine. Disc brake kit T4843500 uses inner bearing L68149 and outer bearing # L44649 so as long as your trailer uses those bearings and has a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern...
    view full answer...
  • How to Identify Replacement Bearings and Seal for 3500-lb-Rated Axle
    The most common set of inner and outer bearings for use on a 3500-lb-rated axle is inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649, and grease seal # 58846. This is noted in the linked article on bearings which lists the most common combinations based on axle weight rating. The best way to proceed is to use the part numbers from the existing bearings and seal to select replacements. This is the most fool-proof way to go. You can refer to the linked image that shows the usual placement...
    view full answer...
  • How Tight Should Castle Nut be on Trailer Hub
    There is no specific torque rating for the castle nut that holds your hub in place. We recommend tightening the castle nut down until it stops, and then backing it off to the next notch wheel the tang washer will fit into the castle nut. Over tightening the nut can lead to the spindles and bearings overheating, which can damage them. We have a video that outlines the proper way to remove and install a trailer hub, to view the video, click on the provided link. 95 degrees on a 55 degree...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Race # L68110 Availability and Compatibility with the # L68149 Bearing
    The information I have indicates that the # L68149 bearing is compatible with a # L68110 race. The L68110 race is most commonly used in boat trailers and the # L68111 is most commonly used in land based trailers. They both take the same bearing, # L68149, but use different seals and the installation surface on the hubs are different dimensions, as you have noted. Most commonly the # L68110 race is associated with the # 168233 grease seal and the # L68111 race is most commonly associated...
    view full answer...




  • Why etrailer.com?

    At etrailer.com we guarantee:
  • Highest quality trailer bearings races seals caps for the best price.

    Our Lowest Price Pledge ensures you will never overpay for the parts you need.
  • Real product know-how.

    We make sure that the products we sell are what we say they are, and that they work the way they are supposed to work. Get real advice from a real person who has the knowledge and expertise needed to solve your problem.
  • Most detailed, accurate trailer bearings races seals cap information available.

    Because we take providing accurate product information seriously, we take our own detailed product photos, demo videos and installation videos, as well as verify measurements, instructions, and vehicle fit information.
  • Installations, made easy.

    We love helping people and have the most highly-trained customer service, hands-on experience, step by step videos and installation instructions.
  • Fast shipping.

    Your order is automatically routed to get out of our warehouse and to your door as quickly as possible. Receive free shipping on orders over $99.
  • Personalized service for life.

    We provide one-on-one, personalized service from the ordering process through the life of your product.
  • Trusted since 1946.

    We've been serving customers since our parts store first opened in 1946 and continue to be recognized by our customers, our vendors and third parties for exceptional service.
  • Returns Policy

    Need to return an item? No problem. Please read our Returns Policy for more information.

Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Jackie C
Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
Robert G
Expert Research:
Patrick B
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Reno H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time.