Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149

Item # L68149

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Our Price: $7.36

Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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L68149 - 1.378 Inch I.D. etrailer Bearings
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 1.378 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L68149
  • Race L68111
High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149 part number L68149 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (133)
  • Q & A (497)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L68149

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.378"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L68111
  • Application: inner bearing for #84 spindle


L68149 Replacement Bearing





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2015 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12RBSOR

2016 - 2016 Forest River Flagstaff Hard Side Camper 12RBSOR

2013 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12RBTH

2016 - 2016 Forest River Flagstaff Hard Side Camper 12RBTH

2012 - 2013 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12SDTH

2013 - 2014 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Nomad Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 131B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 131B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Nomad Retro Travel Trailer 131B

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 131B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 131B

2016 - 2016 Forest River Wolf Pup Travel Trailer 13CJ

2012 - 2012 Skyline Aljo Travel Trailer 140

2012 - 2012 Skyline Bobcat Travel Trailer 140

2012 - 2012 Skyline Nomad Travel Trailer 140

2016 - 2016 Keystone Springdale Summerland Travel Trailer 1400FD

2013 - 2014 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2013 Skyline Mountain View Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Nomad Retro Travel Trailer 140B

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2013 Skyline Wagoneer Travel Trailer 140W

2019 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Cadet Travel Trailer 14CR

2018 - 2018 Coachmen Clipper Travel Trailer 14CR

2017 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 14DB

See All Vehicle Fits



Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L68149 - L68149

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (133 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L68149
by:

A good basic bearing! They fit my application and they roll...so that’s all I could hope for! 570025



- L68149
by:

The bearings worked great and were delivered on time so I could rebuild the axle on the trailer before my trip 569025



- L68149
by:

Product arrived faster than anticipated. Haven't actually installed yet, but quality looks good. They are Chinese but what isn't. I could have paid three times the price for the same thing locally. I've already recommended Etrailer to a friend. Thanks. 116120


Comments

I sold that boat and trailer last fall. No problems related to using your products. Ill go to you first on any future projects and recommend to friends.Thanks, Steve

Steve S - 03/03/2015

9824

- L68149
by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!! 282938



- L68149
by:

Great place to get parts for your trail er. 658007



- L68149
by:

Worked perfect. 647725



- L68149
by:

was the item I ordered. arrived in good condition 620360



- L68149
by:

Showed up extremely fast and I didn’t expedite shipping. All parts I ordered showed up in great shape and was what I ordered. Will definitely use this company going forward for all my trailer needs 616741



- L68149
by:

I could not be happier, What a diiference to have not just good brakes, but great brakes. Plus, the install was so easy, all the hardware was a perfect fit, instructions were right on the money (btw, I'm a retired engineer from a nuclear plant and I wrote procedures, so I'm picky) Anyway, towed the boat 1,000 miles and what a reassuring feeling to know that the equipment is in good working order and does the job when called upon. I'm attaching a couple of pictures so you can see what I did. Thanks again, I will be using etrailer in the future anytime I need something, feel free to pass on my comments 614787



- L68149
by:

Don't do what I did...spend 2 weeks trying to find the right parts locally, and end up trying to use a 67 Chevy seal on a 2002 boat trailer...it doesn't work. Just order the right stuff from etrailer.com and save yourself a lot of time, money, and hassle. If you just absolutely have to go the auto parts store, their brake cleaner is pretty handy for removing grease from the trailer parts without removing the paint. 610456



- L68149
by:

I received these bearings quickly and they fit the 12x2 Dexter 8-222 hub perfectly (LM67048 and L68149). I have not fit checked the grease seal yet. 607150



- L68149
by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. Etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos. 604447



- L68149
by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. Etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos. 604478



- L68149
by:

items work just great..no problems 594833



- L68149
by:

I probably could have used my old bearings but why not replace with new? I feel more comfortable knowing everything is new. 593000



- L68149
by:

Great service, real fast 592448



- L68149
by:

Bearings and seals ordered seem to work well. 589876



- L68149
by:

Fit perfectly 588576



- L68149
by:

Perfect. 588122



- L68149
by:

Bearing fit perfectly in my 3500 lbs, trailer hub. and was an exact match for the original equipment as installed at the Triple Crown factory. 581178



- L68149
by:

Products fit and work as they should and your help and service on the telephone was great. Thanks 575407



- L68149
by:

Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed. 572870



- L68149
by:

I bought the brake this kit last year along with new bearings to replaced the existing brakes on our 2010 Jayco 23B. We went on eight different camping trips this year and they work great! We noticed a huge improvement when applying the brakes to slow down or stopping the camper altogether. I highly recommend this kit because they were easy to install and the noticed stopping power.Please feel free to ask me any questions regarding this kit. 565941



- L68149
by:

great product and prices , fast shipping THANKS 565376



- L68149
by:

need to be pack better for shipping 563185



- L68149
by:

Used this to replace a wheel bearing on my Hudson HBC10 equipment trailer. No issues since. 558239



- L68149
by:

The item is what I expected. 556641



- L68149
by:

The item is what I expected it to be. 556636



- L68149
by:

Order was correct and delivered in 2 days. Items worked fine and were as described. 545323



- L68149
by:

Great product . Easy to install 529133



- L68149
by:

Everything I needed was easy to identify and order through the etrailer.com site, and the order arrived quickly. The information and how-to videos were very helpful, and assisted me in getting my project completed easily. I wouldn't hesitate to use the site again, or to recommend to anyone needing parts for their trailer. 522477



- L68149
by:

Great customer service 517340



- L68149
by:

After making 4 other phone calls I finally discovered etrailer.com. Karen was awesome! She went above and beyond to help me find the parts I needed. Highly recommend. 512414



- L68149
by:

Have not installed any of my new parts as of yet! Very great service from Stacey! Thanks 497473


Comments

I need more stuff !!!

Ron - 04/16/2019

53011

- L68149
by:

Great bearings. Fit my 96 eagle boat trailer with 3500 lb axles. 496622



- L68149
by:

Thank you for your assistance with my purchase of new hubs for my boat trailer. They are exactly as described and they fit perfectly on my trailer. I am attaching a few photo's of the hubs installed. I would recommend your company to everyone who needs hubs........EXCELLENT SERVICE. 492897



- L68149
by:

great bearing fits like it should 487483



- L68149
by:

It is just as described and went on perfectly!! I always like getting things that fit right the first time and look to be quality made. The two that were on my trailer were in very bad condition (JUNK), and these solved my problem very easily. Also, they are at a reasonable price. +++++ all the way!! The staff that helped me are fantastic in knowledge of there product and SERVICE! One of the best parts is the Fast shipping! A PLUS Thanks all the way to everyone! 457788



- L68149
by:

Best service and prices on trailer hardware. Fast shipping also. All items I ordered fit perfect . Thanks 457375



- L68149
by:

Best service and prices on trailer hardware. Fast shipping also. All items I ordered fit perfect . Thanks 457374



- L68149
by:

very good service 455051



- L68149
by:

Great Prices and Fast Shipping!! 454735



- L68149
by:

I RECEIVED ORDER YESTSERDAY. PLAN TO INSTALL WINCH AND BEARINGS TOMORROW . PRODUCTS LOOKS GOOD. TIME WILL TELL. THANKS FOR PROMPT SSERVICE. 450652



- L68149
by:

Great product great price great service 446533



- L68149
by:

Just what I ordered and fast shipping 446000



- L68149
by:

Bearings do not come with races. Make that real clear when you order by phone, and then make sure you have the part numbers for both. Maybe you will get an assembly. 441709



- L68149
by:

Excellent transaction. Parts arrived on time as expected, were exactly what I ordered, and fit my trailer perfectly. Would definitely do business with etrailer again. 436465



- L68149
by:

Great price, prompt delivery and great product. 435089



- L68149
by:

Purchased as a spare, but checked fit while repacking prior bearing and the fit is perfect. 433718



- L68149
by:

Great people to work with. Excellent prices on all trailer parts. Thanks 429135


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  • Stainless Steel Kodiak Disc Brakes for 3,500 Pound # 84 Spindle
  • A # 84 spindle, like # R40484, is a spindle for a 3,500 pound axle that has inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649. The bearing kit that fits is # BK2-100. To replace your brakes and hubs you'll need the Kodiak Stainless Steel Brake Kit # K2R35S with hubs # KH84545S. You'll also need the bearing kit # BK2-100 that I mentioned earlier.
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  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter Idler Hub Assembly for 3500 lb Axles # 84545BX
  • The bearing replacements I recommend for the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 3,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 # 84545BX are: Inner bearing: # L68149 (1.378" inner diameter) Outer bearing: # L44649 (1.063" inner diameter) If you need the grease seal, I recommend # 58846 or # RG06-050 which have the same measurements. You can get everything in a kit using just the Bearing Kit for 84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal # BK2-100. You may also be interested in...
    view full answer...

  • Recommendation For Extra Hub/Drum For Dexter 8-249 Hubs
  • Dexter 8-249 hubs normally have inner bearings like Item # L68149 and outer bearings like Item # L44649. If these are your bearings (the size will be stamped on them) then it sounds like you need Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Item # 84556UC3 by Dexter which also has 8-249 stamped on them. This hub and drum assembly fits a 5 on 5 bolt pattern. You may also need Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Item # AKHD-555-35-K which fits a 5 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern. Be sure and check your bolt pattern...
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  • Replacement Seals and Bearings for 4,400 lb Axle
  • We have the bearings and seals you would need for your 4,400 lb axle. It would be inner bearing # L68149 with race # L68111, outer bearing # LM67048 with race # LM67010 and grease seal # RG06-050. You can find the prices of these parts on their product pages. I've added links of video reviews of these products for you to take a look at as well.
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  • How to Determine the Correct Replacement Hubs for a Boat Trailer
  • To determine which hubs would be best for your boat trailer there are a few things you will need to look at; the axle capacity on your boat trailer, the inner bearing number, outer bearing number, grease seal number, the bolt pattern of your wheels, and whether or not your trailer has brakes. If you do not know what your axle capacity is you can find it located on the axle itself. It is usually located towards the middle and will typically be stamped into the axle. The bearing and...
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  • Recommended Replacement Brake Hub and Drum Assemblies for AL-KO 8490 Brake System
  • I can definitely help you replace your AL-KO 8490 hub and drums that are worn. These hub and drum assemblies are for 3500 lbs axles, and there are some great replacement options for you. I recommend the etrailer.com Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-545-35-K. This hub and drum uses # L68149 inner bearing and # L44649 outer bearings. This assembly includes the bearings, races, grease seal, grease cap, and lug nuts. This has a 10 inch diameter and a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. For a 10...
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  • Can Dexter 8-222 Hub be Replaced with 6 on 5-1/2 Inch Hub on Tandem 4 Ton Trailer
  • I did some research on your Dexter 8-222 Hub and was able to find the inner and outer bearing numbers as well as the grease seal used. It looks like this particular hub was designed for mobile homes and these, for the most part, have more unique bearings and bolt patterns because they are technically manufactured for one time use only and not meant to be altered or replaced. Because of this, there is unfortunately not a 6 on 5-1/2 inch hub available that will be compatible with your...
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  • Replacement Trailer Bearings and Seals for 4,400 Pound Dexter Axle
  • You'll want to make sure your bearing numbers and dimensions match but for a Dexter 4,400 pound axle you should need inner bearing # L68149 which is 1.378 inches with race # L68111, and outer bearing # LM67048 that is 1.250 inches with race # LM67010. The seal is # RG06-050. If you need the entire hub assembly with a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern it's # 8-407-5UC3-EZ.
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  • How to Determine Correct Hub and Drum Assembly for Trailer
  • The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly for 3,500-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 10" Diameter - 5 on 4-1/2" # 84546UC3-EZ does have specific requirements for a fit on your spindle, as would any replacement hub and drum that you purchase. Since I'm not sure what spindle you have, the easiest way to find the correct replacement hubs is to first know your hub's weight capacity and then know what bearings your previous hubs used and match them up; that was often done by taking apart your hub assembly...
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  • How to Choose the Correct Pre-Greased Replacement Hub for Snowbear Trailer
  • There are pre-greased hubs available in a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. In order to find the correct replacement hub you can take apart your good hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If your hub has inner and outer bearings # L44643 you'd need CE Smith Trailer Hub Assembly w/ Carrying Case for 2,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 - Pre-Greased # CE13210. Should your hub have inner and outer...
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  • How to Determine Correct Fit of Replacement Hub on Trailer Spindles
  • Our range of 5-on-5-1/2 hubs for 2000-lb to 3500-lb axles is shown on the linked page. These items include both idler hubs like # AKIHUB-555-35-K for trailers without brakes and also hub/drums like # AKHD-555-35-K for trailers with drum brakes. All hubs include bearings, races, seals and lug nuts. As it happens, all of these 5-on-5-1/2 hubs use the same set of bearings, inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649. A new hub has to use the same bearings as the one it replaces...
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  • Bearing and Brake Assembly Kit Recommendation for Dexter Hub 8-250
  • From previous customers we have determined that the Dexter 8-250 hub bearings are # L68149 and # L44649 which means for a bearing kit you would need # BK2-100. That means for brake assemblies you would need the part # AKEBRK-35R-SA for the right hand side and part # AKEBRK-35L-SA for the left hand side.
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  • Replacement Trailer Grease Seal for an NOK AD2527E Seal on a Boat Mate Trailer
  • To replace your NOK AD2527E seal you can use # 168233. It has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches. Based on what I could find on the NOK AD2527E the inner diameter is the same and the outer diameter is 2.328 inches. So it will be a tight fit but no other seal is even close.
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  • Pre-Greased Replacement 5-on-5 Hub for 3500-lb Dexter Axle
  • You can confirm the weight rating of your Dexter axle by removing one hub and pulling its bearings. The included photo shows how part numbers usually appear on bearings. The specific bearings used will tell you the axle's weight rating. Just refer to the linked article that lists the bearings commonly used for various axle weight ratings. A new hub must use the same bearings as the original hub in order to fit on your spindles. A 3500-lb axle commonly uses bearings # L68149 and #...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal for the EZ Loader Kit 300-015907
  • The bearings, races, and grease seal that are included in the EZ Loader bearing kit 300-015907 that you referenced are found as parts # L68149, # L68111, # L44649, # L44610, and # 168255TB.
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  • Replacement Grease Seals for Boat Trailer with Inner Bearing L68149
  • The hub grease seal you can use for a hub with inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649 is part # RG06-050. This is a set of two double-lip seals with an inner diameter of 1.719-inches and an outer diameter of 2.565-inches. You'll need to order two kits. These seals fit 3500-lb axles.
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  • Replacement Hub and Rotor Assembly with 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern for 3,500 Pound Trailer Axle
  • From my research the hub and rotor assembly you're looking for is for a 3,500 pound axle with a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. It uses bearings # L68149 and # L44649 and has a Dacromet finish for marine use. If the bearing numbers match you can use # KHR10D for a replacement hub and rotor. The bearing kit that goes with it is # BK2-100
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Jackie C
Expert Research:
Michael L
Expert Research:
Robert G
Expert Research:
Patrick B
Expert Research:
Michael H
Installed by:
Jeff D
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Reno H
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Jameson C
Video Edited:
Joshua S
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John H
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Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Video Edited:
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Photos by:
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Updated by:
Sarah W

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