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Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Item # BK3-300
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal part number BK3-300 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK3-300

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing LM67048 and 25580
  • Race 25520 and LM67010


Trailer Hub Bearing and Race Kit

  • Kit includes:
    • Inner Bearing and Race
    • Outer Bearing and Race
    • Grease Seal
    • Cotter Pin
    Outer Bearing Inner Bearing Outer Race Inner Race Seal Seal ID
    LM67048 25580 LM67010 25520 10-36 2.25"



BK3-300 Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal, Races 25520 and LM67010





Video of Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal - BK3-300

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (96 Customer Reviews)


- BK3-300
by:

Came quick, installed easily, still working great. 606393


Comments
Still working as it should. No worries on long trips anymore. Just a couple pumps of grease, adjust brakes, and check tire pressure then off we go.
David - 02/20/2020

70018

- BK3-300
by:

These are not, domestic made bearing, they are chinese. This is the best price anywhere I have found bearings and seals. Super good price. Shipping way low. Shipping time 2 days. I call that perfect. 5stars. thanks 105070


Comments
NO problems with the bearings, all worked out fine, thanks
pueblowestdude - 10/24/2014

7432

- BK3-300
by:

Perfect fit for LCI 5200lb axles. No Castle nut or washer, so retain and reuse the OEM ones. New cotter pin which was nice. 691144



- BK3-300
by:

Rebuilt some old mobile home axles for a home-built trailer. So far they have held up to the Arizona heat, make sure you adjust the tightness on the castle nut to appropriate torque. Fit like a glove. 619996



- BK3-300
by:

The representative was very helpful and was diligent in making sure I got what I needed. I would give him a five star rating. However, this item had listed Timken bearing numbers leading one to believe they were Timken bearings. The representative can only quote information that has been given to him. I believe he too was under the impression they were Timken. After fast shipping+++, they arrived last night arounf 7pm. After the unpacking I discovered bearings made in China. This has happened to me before with orders from etrailer. 456564



- BK3-300
by:

Product was shipped quickly and received in a couple of days, But was the wrong size but was quickly resolved and shipped and received. I order all my parts from etrailer they are the best! 500270



- BK3-300
by:

Over a year ago I bought 2 sets of bearings, seals and races for my homemade car hauler with mobil home axles. I am happy to update my review to say they are doing fine still with nothing to report. I remember not having any issues with the instal so I expected no trouble. 571688



- BK3-300
by:

I was told by local shops that this bearing kit did not exist, Plus the price bought separately was about $40. E trailer had them at a great price. Got them quickly and had no trouble installing them works great 130448



- BK3-300
by:

I have an older boat trailer without any identifying info. The customer service folks were very helpful and explained how I could identify the wheel bearing replacement kits I needed. Parts arrived in 3 business days. At half the price of local auto parts stores. 767900



- BK3-300
by:

Perfect fit for a old mobile home axle. thanks 763552



- BK3-300
by:

Customer service is excellent ... Return was so easy ... Phyllis was great helping us get the right size bearing ... Worked out perfect!! 745442



- BK3-300
by:

came supper fast and was just what i or dered 738190



- BK3-300
by:

Good price and great service 735663



- BK3-300
by:

Excellent. Part fit great. Excellent shipping. Will be ordering from etrailer again in the near future. 719439



- BK3-300
by:

Quick shipping, products fit great! Tha nks 703931



- BK3-300
by:

As an engineer I knew which bearings to buy. They installed perfectly, adjusted to proper setting and am now very happy knowing my trailer will hold up for another decade. Thanks 670821



- BK3-300
by:

Outstanding customer service and prompt delivery. Only time will tell on part quality. 649790



- BK3-300
by:

Upon inspection of travel trailer bearings noted two of four races had overheated. After a lot of research I found this pre packaged set of bearings and races at etrailer. Easy order process and received quickly. Quality of parts is excellent, installation was straight forward and all items fit like OEM. Will order again when needed and highly recommend to anyone needing a complete bearing overhaul. 638590



- BK3-300
by:

Working with Lazer was a distinct pleasure. He is very knowledgeable of the product and was able to help me immensely. Product arrived in a very timely manner. Have shopped here before and will do so again when needed. 637909



- BK3-300
by:

Great fit . Very knowledgeable customer service people. They were able to get me all the parts needed to rebuild my 30 year old boat trailer. 637630



- BK3-300
by:

So far so good. Made a cross country trip with no issues. Bearings are an exact fit. Order came in on time and complete. Will definitely use etrailer again 616468



- BK3-300
by:

Parts came very quickly and are of good quality.... 615296



- BK3-300
by:

works great 564766



- BK3-300
by:

Great product and great price. Everything you need to do the job properly. 558112



- BK3-300
by:

Exactly what I needed. Was packaged well. Fast shipping using ground. Installed on my 5200 lb. Lippert axles. 554518


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Bearing Compatibility On A 2002 PJ 14+2 Dovetail Equipment Trailer With 5200lbs Axle
    While we know the axle capacity, the bearing kits like # BK3-300 are specific to the spindle that is installed so you will need to remove the hub to get the part numbers from the inner and outer bearings to determine the correct replacement parts for your spindles. You will need to safely support the trailer, remove the wheel and tire, remove the grease cap, remove the cotter pin and washer that secures the spindle nut, remove the spindle nut, and then you will be able to remove the...
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  • Bearing Kit for Lippert 5200-lb Axle 121066
    Your 5200-lb Lippert axle 121066 uses inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # LM67048 and grease seal # GS-2250DL. For all of these you can use kit # BK3-300. I also recommend bearing packer tool # ALL647646 for a cleaner method of packing the new bearings with high-temperature bearing grease such as # L11380. Often a block of wood along with a rubber mallet are handy when installing a new seal into the rear bore of your hub. These items allow you to install the seal with less risk...
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  • Replacement 6 Bolt Agricultural Hub for 1978 John Deer Implement Trailer
    Given the bearing numbers and the fact that it's a 6 bolt hub, you're needing the Dexter # 42660UC1 Agricultural hub. The bearings, races and seals are sold separately. You'll need the # 25580 inner bearing, the # LM67048 outer bearing, the # 25520 inner race and the # LM67010 outer race. The grease seal we carry that cross-references to the SKF 21352 is part # GS-2125DL. This hub is typically used with the # GS-2250DL grease seal, so I'd recommend you use a digital caliper on the surface...
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  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter 5,100 Pound Axle on Grand Design Trailer
    I reached out to my contact at Dexter and with the serial number you provided they were able to track down the correct replacement bearings for the spindles on your axles. For the inner bearing you will use part # 25580 for the bearing itself and # 25520 for the race. For the outer bearing you will use part # LM67048 for the bearing and # LM67010 for the race. The correct grease seal is part # RG06-070. For a complete kit that includes these bearings, races, and seal, you can use...
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  • Bearing Kit Replacement For Dexter p-12 Axle Serial Number D0811486
    I contacted Dexter Axle and the exact bearing kit that you need for the P-12 Axle with the serial number D0811486 is bearing kit part # BK3-300 which comes with a # LM67048 outer bearing and a # 25580 inner bearing with a 10-36 seal.
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  • Needing Wheel Bearing Kits for Lippert 5,200 Lbs Axles
    We carry two different wheel bearing kits for 5,200 Lbs axles. The difference between the two set is in the inside diameter of the grease seals. One kit, # BK3-300, uses a grease seal the measures 2-1/4 inches I.D. The other kit, # BK3-310, has a seal the measures 2-1/8 inches I.D. You will need to measure your current seals to see which kit will work for your application. Both kits will include bearings, seal, and race cups. One kit per wheel. I also recommend LubriMatic Bearing...
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  • Which Grease Seal for 5th Wheel Camper with Lippert 5200 lb Axle
    Assuming that your hubs use the LM67048 outer and 25580 inner bearings, you will need the # BK3-300 which uses the 10-36 double lip grease seal with a 2.25 inch inside diameter. The BK3-310 uses a seal with a 2.125 inch inside diameter, which would not be compatible with your spindle. If you wish, you can confirm this by using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to measure the diameter of the spindle surface where the spindle rides, as shown in the diagram.
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  • Needing Bearing and Seal Replacement for Lippert Axle
    I found a bearing and seals that will fit your Lippert Axles. According to the manufacturer on the 5,200 lbs axles, the outer bearing number is # LM67048, the inner bearing is # 25580 and the grease seal will be 10-36, # RG06-070. Now, before you order your parts, you will need to remove the wheel and hubs to inspect the bearings to see if the bearing numbers are match to the ones listed above. If they match then you will need # BK3-300. This is a bearing kit that will include both...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 2017 Trailer with Dexter 5200 lb Axles
    For your 2017 trailer with Dexter 5200 lbs axles, there are two possible options for replacement bearing kits. Both kits, the # BK3-300 mentioned in your question and the # BK3-310, include an LM67048 outer bearing and 25580 inner bearing which match the hub and drum assemblies for your Dexter axle. The difference between the two kits is the inner diameter of the included grease seals. The more likely fit for your trailer may be the # BK3-310 which has a smaller seal inner diameter...
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  • Trailer Hub Recommendation for Spindle with Diameters of .75 and 1.25 inches
    We have one hub that matches the criteria you mentioned. It is part # T1721400042. It has bearings with inner diameters of .75 and 1.25 inches plus has a bolt pattern of 5 on 4-1/2 inch.
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  • 6 Lug Hub Recommendation with Bearings LM67048 and 25580
    Yes, for a hub with a 6 on 5-1/2 inch bolt pattern that has the same bearings as the part # BK3-300 we have the hub part # 8-201-5UC3-EZ from Dexter.
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  • Grease Seal Inner Diameter is 1/8 of an Inch Too Small
    My guess is you have the incorrect bearing kit. Kit # BK3-300 with Seal 10-36 # RG06-070 and Kit # BK3-310 with Seal # GS-2125DL have the same bearing numbers but the seals have different inner diameters. Seal # GS-2125DL has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and Seal 10-36 # RG06-070 has an inner diameter of 2.250 inches. A difference of exactly 1/8 of an inch. If this is the case the solution is to get # GS-2125DL seals.
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  • Is TruRyde Outer Bearing # LM67048 Equal to Timken Bearing 02475
    The outer bearing in the TruRyde Bearing Kit, part # BK3-300, is part # LM67048. This outer bearing has an internal diameter of 1.25 inches and uses a bearing race # LM67010 with an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The bearing kit # BK3-300 is designed for 5,200-lbs axle, 6,000-lbs axle, and 7,000-lbs axle. I looked up a Timken # 02475 bearing and it also shows an internal diameter of 1.25 inches, but is rated for a larger 8,000-lb axle, so it will be used on a larger hub with a different...
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  • Bearing Kit for LM67048 Outside Bearing and Grease Seal GS-2250DL
    I believe you meant that your grease seal is GS-2250DL. If so, the correct bearing kit for you would be # BK3-300. This kit is for an axle with a 5,200 lb capacity, has outer bearing # LM67048, outer race # LM67010, inner bearing # 25580, inner race # 25520 and grease seal # # GS-2250DL. I've added a link to a video review of this kit for you to take a look at as well.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit with Inner Bearing 25580 and Seal with 2.25
    The seal that is included with bearing kit # BK3-300 has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches which matches the info you have found. This kit also includes inner bearing 25580 and outer bearing LM67048 so if your outer bearing is the same this is the right kit for you. If your outer bearing is 14125A then you would need kit # BK3-200.
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  • How to Identify Correct Replacement Bearings & Seals for Single Axle Boat Trailer
    You will need to pull one of your trailer hubs to confirm the bearing part numbers unless the manufacturer can look up the trailer's VIN to get that information for you. For a 14-year-old trailer they may not maintain records of such construction details. This is not unusual among trailer makers. To avoid purchasing incorrect parts you will be better off pulling one hub and removing its bearings and seal to obtain their part numbers. Then selection of new bearings and related parts is...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Lippert 5,200 lb Trailer Axle
    For your Lippert 5,200 lb axle the correct bearing kit you need is the part # BK3-300 which fits the "number 42" spindle your trailer has.
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  • Which Bearing Kit is Needed for Dexter Axle with Bearings LM67048 and 25580
    The Dexter axle you have most likely needs the same seal as what comes with the part # BK3-300. The included seal has an inside diameter of 2.25 inches. Some times with your axle they used a smaller seal. This kit would be the part # BK3-310. The seal of this kit has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches. Easy way to tell is to measure the spindle where the bearings ride. If you have 2.25 you need the # BK3-300 or if you have 2.125 you need # BK3-310.
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  • Determining Replacement Bearings, Races and Seals for Dual Axle Tricker Trailer
    In order to determine the correct bearing and seal replacements for your Tricker Trailer, you will need to pull the hubs on the trailer to check for the bearing numbers. These should be stamped onto the bearings themselves. If you are unable to read the numbers, you can also take a few measurements along the spindle at various locations, where the bearings sit. I have attached an image that shows where these measurements will be taken. I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157,...
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  • Will The Double Lip Seals in Bearing Kit # BK3-300 Work on a Horse Trailer
    Yes the double lip grease seals in the TruRyde Bearing Kit, # BK3-300, will work on your horse trailer axle as long as it is the correct size seal for your spindle. I have attached a photo showing how to measure the inner and outer diameter of the seal and where to measure on your spindle to make sure it will fit. The double lip seals are usually found on marine applications because the outer and inner lips make it a much more effective and durable seal when the wheels are going in...
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  • Bearing Kit Needed with Bearings 25580 and LM67048 Along with the Grease Seal 10-36
    We actually have a bearing kit that comes with the bearings 25580 and LM67048 along with their races and the 10-36 seal you inquired about. This bearing kit is found as part # BK3-300 on our site.
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  • Bearing Kit for 5,200 lb Axle on 22 Foot Continental Cargo V-Nose Enclosed Trailer
    For your 5,200 lb axles, we have two bearing kits available. They use the same bearings, but have different seals. The Bearing Kit # BK3-300 has a seal that has an inner diameter of 2.250 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches. The other Bearing Kit # BK3-310 has a seal with a 2.125 inch inner diameter and 3.376 inch outer diameter. You will need to check your current seal for printed number or measure the spindle using a caliper like # PTW80157
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  • How to Find Correct Wheel Bearing Kit
    I can help you find out exactly how to determine the correct wheel bearing kit for your trailer. To do this you should take apart your hub assembly and looking at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you need to use a digital caliper such as # 301-17068 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation that Includes 25580 Inner Bearing and LM67048 Outer and Seal 2250D
    The correct bearing kit you will need is the part # BK3-300 that you referenced. This comes with bearings you have as well as a grease seal with the same inner diameter of 2.250 and outer diameter of 3.376 that your 2250D has.
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  • Bearing Brand of Bearing Kit BK3-300
    The brand of bearings in the Bearing Kit part # BK3-300 that you referenced are TruRyde. I attached a review video for this kit that has more information for you to check out as well.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for Lippert 5,200 lb Axle NOSP-OS-L-65516-7225-30PT
    According to my research the correct replacement bearings are parts # 25580 and # LM67048 with the replacement seal being part # GS-2250DL. These are available in the Bearing Kit # BK3-300. Just make sure that you have these bearings and that your seal has a 2.250" inner diameter and you're good to go! If it measures smaller than 2.250" then you need kit # BK3-310 which has the seal # GS-2125DL that has a 2.125" inner diameter.
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  • Replacement Hub and Drum Assembly with Same Configuration as Bearing Kit # BK3-300
    I have attached a link to all of the hubs that we offer with Bearing Kit, # BK3-300, configuration, 25580 inner bearing and LM67048 outer bearing. I have also attached a article on determining the bolt pattern of your wheels. For example, if the bolt pattern is actually 6 on 5-1/2, you could use the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly, # 8-201-5UC3.
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  • Trailer Hub and Drum Recommendation for Replacing Hub with Bearings 25580, LM67048
    Actually the bearing info you listed indicates you have a very standard number 42 spindle which we have plenty of fits for. Only issue is that you'd need to go with a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern. So for that you'd want the part # 8-201-5 with the bearing kit # BK3-300 and grease cap # RG04-060. Then for brake assemblies part # AKEBRK-7-SA which is a kit for both sides of the axle.
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  • What Bearings Does a Lippert 5,200 lb Axle Use
    I spoke with Lippert and unfortunately they were not able to pull any information using the number you provided. Instead, you are going to be looking for a serial number which usually starts with either "NV" or "045". Once you can provide this I would be happy to give them a call again and make sure you get the correct replacement bearings. If you cannot find the serial number then your only other option would be to measure the spindle where the bearings and seals sit with a digital...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Updated by:
Alexander C

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