Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Item # BK3-200

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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BK3-200 - 7000 lbs Axle etrailer Bearings
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 14125A and 25580
  • Race 25520 and 14276
Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal part number BK3-200 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK3-200


Trailer Hub Bearing Kit

Kit Includes:
  • One Inner Bearing and Race
  • One Outer Bearing and Race
  • Grease Seal
  • Cotter Pin
Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
14125A
25580
10-36
2.250"


BK3-200 Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal







Video of Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal - BK3-200

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (96 Customer Reviews)


- BK3-200
by:

Really impressed 475180



- BK3-200
by:

Parts were delivered on time and were exactly as expected. Everything fit and functions as desired. This was my third experience with e trailer, and customer service was once again second to none. 541672



- BK3-200
by:

The brake assys fit perfectly.. They don't even need adjusting. The project is not completed , It's pretty much a rebuild,The bearings are also a perfect fit.. Thanks for your intrest and great service, I'm 82 years old and have been at this since I was in hi school. Thanks again, Vern 172135



- BK3-200
by:

Not installed yet. However, everything looks good. Will update. Satisfied so far. Well packaged! 482892


Comments

You guys are great. Will be a repeat customer.

Abi - 03/11/2019

50381

- BK3-200
by:

Firstly: Customer service and tech support is excellent. Very helpful and did some digging on exactly what I needed. Secondly: Items shipped same day and arrived earlier than advertised. Finally, the parts were exactly as described and arrived in good shape. I will say that the bearings and seals were packaged loosely in a padded envelope (then multiple envelopes shipped in a box). The hub seals were undamaged, but they weren't protected from the heavier bearings. I think some additional packaging would be prudent. Overall, very happy with everything from ETrailer! 516299



- BK3-200
by:

This is one of those times where I really needed to stop and take the time to write a review. If you look at the pictures you will see that I have a tri-axle trailer and I had no paperwork on the brakes when I bought it from the original owner. So I call e trailer and I get Cathy T on the phone. I ask her if trailers are her specialty and she says "sure they are" I said ok great lets dig in but I don't know what I have but I told her I did have a caliper to measure. So after about an hour on the phone she questioned me enough to figure out the front and rear bearing AND race sizes, the seal size AND the replacement break assembly kit to use. I never once felt rushed and she was awesome !! There was a lot to ask about to make sure we got it right and guess what Cathy T NAILED IT. Check out the picture of the parts on the bench. Every part was exactly what I needed. It all worked out perfectly and I cannot say enough good things about my experience with e trailer and Cathy T. If you EVER need help with a trailer E Trailer is the ONLY place to go. The price is incredible and the service is even better. What an awesome organization. Thank you E Trailer and Cathy T 302988



- BK3-200
by:

Always world class customer service! Always prompt shipping! Always a large selection. These guys are the best!!! 192955


Comments

STill totally satisfied.

Gfor - 05/26/2016

17836

- BK3-200
by:

After a lot of research with the help of etrailer support I purchased the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit K2HR712 and installed on a 2013 Dutchmen Rubicon 2900 with 7K lippert axles to replace the 13” Electric drum brakes. I discovered any questions about whether the disc hubs would fit my axle was eliminated when I realized I just had to verify the wheel bearing numbers for the disc hubs were the same as what was on my axles. (bearings, caps and seals do not come with the kit and need to be ordered separately). My trailer had dual axles, the disc kits came in separate boxes that did fairly well in shipping, nothing poking out of the boxes or anything. Parts matched and fitted without any problems. Again, etrailer support was very helpful in getting the correct parts and any questions I had during the installation. I could have done this myself however I choose to have a brake tech do the hydraulic lines and bleed the system out. Very satisfied with the product and support. 151074



- BK3-200
by:

Wheel bearing replacement can be very expensive. After going to a local auto parts store and spending hundreds of dollars to get bearings for my vehicle I found out I had purchased the wrong parts. I went online to find the correct parts to reorder from them and found etrailer.com. When the local parts store tried to remedy the situation they told me that they only had three of the correct sets available. I returned most of the parts I purchased and ordered the parts plus some extra ones for one fifth the price from etrailer.com. I received free shipping on my order. The parts arrived and all was correct. I am glad I found etrailer.com. 413826



- BK3-200
by:

Looks good but time will tell 664954



- BK3-200
by:

Great price, fast shipping. 659322



- BK3-200
by:

Fit perfect 656557



- BK3-200
by:

I received my order on time and complete. I am very pleased with the product and the professionalism of etrailer. They had the trailer parts I needed, answers to my questions, pictures to compare products, and kits that were just what I needed. I will be ordering from these folks again! 643143



- BK3-200
by:

I've ordered several items from etrailer. Never a bad experience. On-line is great, but calling and talking to a sales rep is even more special. Karen to s awesome. No better place than trade. 638632



- BK3-200
by:

It was fine. 636971



- BK3-200
by:

Perfect fit, fast shipping as usual. I replaced the bearings and seals on my Redwood fifth wheel.t’s good to be able to order something and not worry about getting the wrong parts. Thanks! 628188



- BK3-200
by:

Got all the parts yesterday, hopefully we can get them installed soon 621526



- BK3-200
by:

Everything fit like it was supposed to, bearings are Chinese made and that makes me a little less confident in how long they will last. Overall the customer service was excellent and will order again from them. 614367



- BK3-200
by:

The first time I ordered these, they came loose in a padded shipping envelope. They looked like that they had been in a rock tumbler. I ordered them a second time and had to wait 10 days to get the replacements. This time they were packed like they should have been. etrailer has been good through the process but from the time I originally ordered them to the time I received the replacements it was a total of 20 days. Far longer than it needed to be. 608690



- BK3-200
by:

Quality part easy to assemble no issues after 15,000 miles. 593230



- BK3-200
by:

Great product fast shipping 591452



- BK3-200
by:

We have ordered parts from Etrailer several times, quick to respond and ship. Excellent service! 567319



- BK3-200
by:

Excellent customer service they went out of their way to look up the parts for me 561818



- BK3-200
by:

etrailer is the best when it comes to having stuff in stock and fast shipping 556205



- BK3-200
by:

Great product. Great Service and Great Comunication !!! 554199



- BK3-200
by:

It is true that etrailer has the best Quality and most reasonable prices for your RV needs!!! I give etrailer AAAA++++ for everything. 529910



- BK3-200
by:

Works as advertised. 520580



- BK3-200
by:

the only reason I did not give this a 5 star rating was the seals that came with the kit were the wrong size and I had to purchase 4 new seals. 513249



- BK3-200
by:

Great!!!! etrailer is the best in the business for customer service.... 474670



- BK3-200
by:

Product arrived on time and undamaged. I was surprised to see that the bearings were made in China. I thought they might be Timpken. 473305



- BK3-200
by:

Good quality and price 469168



- BK3-200
by:

Ordered at 3pm via economy shipping Received by 11 am Great quality 467682



- BK3-200
by:

Very Very good service. The phone agent made sure I had the right parts picked out and did miss anything. Fast delivery and very good price point. 467384



- BK3-200
by:

Parts ordered were exact replacement and arrived when promised. Customer service representative was knowledgeable and very helpful. Able to answer several questions I had. 446431



- BK3-200
by:

Very happy with service and the parts i ordered.Very easy to find what you need 445459



- BK3-200
by:

Perfect fit 438940



- BK3-200
by:

Great prices on quality products. 429321



- BK3-200
by:

Hi, I find it AMAZING that I placed an order online and did not receive a notification E-Mail!!!! Called 2 times and was told by the person I talked to that they would send it right out. NO E-MAIL But the product arrived on time!!!! 426920



- BK3-200
by:

bearing kit worked well 413464



- BK3-200
by:

Great product, low prices ordered on line on a Sunday they got the order on Monday, they didn't ship it until Thursday and I didn't get my order until a week later. All and all, I would do it again as the selection and prices are great 412750



- BK3-200
by:

The bearing and seal kit arrived timely and fit as should. Quality was exact same as o.e.m. and i didnt have to leave my house. 409222



- BK3-200
by:

Delivered as described 408786



- BK3-200
by:

Very pleased with service and product. Have used etrailer several times with same results. Thanks to great customer service 401611



- BK3-200
by:

received as ordered 395646



- BK3-200
by:

Wanted dual lip seals, so I had to order those separately as the ones in this kit are for a different seal inside diameter than my axles. Bearings and races are perfect. Quick shipping. 386994



- BK3-200
by:

Thank you for the fast shipping 379973



- BK3-200
by:

Fast shipping. Great service 369488



- BK3-200
by:

Excellent value! Great customer service. 367061



- BK3-200
by:

it's good to have a spare set of these 361117



- BK3-200
by:

Fast shipping great packaging 359664


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Dexter 7k Axle
  • For 7k Dexter axle bearings you have two options depending on the inner diameter of the seal you need. You would need part # BK3-200 for if your seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches. Or part # BK3-210 for if your seal inner diameter is 2.125 inches.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 7,000 lb Dexter Axles
  • For your Dexter 7K axles, you will want the Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal # BK3-200 for each hub if you have the standard spindle. If you have the EZ Lube spindle with the grease zerk then you will want # BK3-210 to include the EZ Lube washer. For the grease, I recommend the LubriMatic LMX Industrial Strength Grease - 14 oz. Cartridge # L11390. If you want to pack them easily, I recommend using the Bearing Packer - Plastic # PTW1218. I've also attached an article...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed for Hydraulic Disc Brakes on 7,000 lbs Dexter Axle
  • For your dual axle trailer that has a Dexter axle with a weight capacity of 7,000 lbs and 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern, you have everything that you need correctly listed. Two Kodiak Disc Brake Kits # K2HR712 Four Bearing Kits # BK3-200 HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Brake Actuator # HBA16 Kodiak Hydraulic Brake Line Kit - Tandem Axle - 18 Foot # 18TA-BLKIT Prodigy P3 Brake Controller # 90195 For covers you would want to use Fulton Grease Cap # F103314, or you could also use Bearing...
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Parts Compatible with Dexter P12 7,000 lb Axle
  • We do not carry the replacement axle for your P12 7K Axle. We do however have the brake assemblies and bearing kit or hub/drum assemblies to assist based on what I can find online for a 7K Dexter axle. You will most likely want the Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal # BK3-200 to work with your axle and hub/drum assembly. To get the entire replacement assembly, you want the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 5,200-lb to 7,000-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 12" - 8 on 6-1/2 # 42866UC3-EZ....
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit With Seal for 7000 lb Lippert Axle
  • The Lippert 7,000 lb axles use a seal that is 2.250 inches inner diameter and 3.376 inches outer diameter. You will want Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) # RG06-070 for the replacements or complete bearing kit # BK3-200 which includes replacement bearings, races, and seal for each hub.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 7k Axle
  • In order to choose the correct replacement bearing kit of your 7,000 lb axle, you will need to know both the inner and outer bearing numbers, as well as the inner diameter of the grease seal, which you can find using a digital caliper. The most common bearings on 7k axles are inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 14125A. If those are your bearing numbers and the inner diameter of your grease seal measures 2.125 inches, you would want bearing kit # BK3-210, which includes the bearings,...
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  • Recommendation For Bearing/Races/Seals Replacement Kit For 7,000-lb Lippert EZ-Lube Axles
  • I contacted Lippert to confirm bearing sizes and it sounds like your 7,000-lbs axles have an outer bearing like Item # 14125A and an inner bearing like Item # 25580 and a 10-36 seal. Based on this information, I recommend the replacement Bearing Kit, Item # BK3-200, which includes bearings, races, grease seals, and cotter pin. For hub grease caps, I recommend the Redline Trailer Hub grease Cap for E-Z Lube, Item # 21-43-1. The dust caps are sold separately so if you need them I recommend...
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  • Replacement Rotors and Brake Pads for 7,000 lb Lippert Axle
  • For your 2007 Teton Homes Experience, I recommend the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Dacromet - 7,000 lbs # K2HR712D for the entire disc brake kit. For just the hub assemblies with rotors, I recommend the Kodiak 13" Hub and Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - Dacromet - 9/16" Bolts # KHR1389D and bearing kit # BK3-200. For the brake pads, I recommend the Kodiak Ceramic Brake Pads - Stainless Steel Back # K250CP-SS or ceramic back # K250CP.
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  • Recommended Replacement Wheel Bearings On An Airstream Trailer
  • Yes, the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing, # 25580, is the replacement for the Airstream trailer bearing 4T-25580. It has an inner diameter of 1.750 inches and has the same outer diameter as well. If the (back)INNER bearing is the 4T-25580, then there are 3 different common outer bearing combinations. If you have a 6,000 lb axle, the outer bearing will be # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-070 will be needed as well. The bearing kit that includes these 3 parts is # BK3-100. If you...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Lippert 6k and 7k Axles
  • For a Lippert 6k axle you have two options. The part # BK3-100 and the part # BK3-110. The difference would be the size of the inner diameter of the grease seal. The part # BK3-100 comes with seal that has inner diameter of 2.25 inches and the part # BK3-110 comes with seal that is 2.125 inches. For a 7k axle by Lippert you would want the part # BK3-200 if the seal diameter needed is 2.25 inches or part # BK3-210 for inner diameter of 2.125 inches.
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  • Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes, Leaf Springs, Bearings, Hardware, & Brake Lines for Dexter 7K Axles
  • Since the ProLube kit # XLPROLUBE2440KIT is only rated for use on 5,200 to 6,000 pound axles I do not recommend using it for 7,000 pound axles. Grease would be better for marine applications since a hub full of grease repels water and an oil bath hub could just let the water set on top. The correct grease seal for disc brake kit # K2HR712D is # RG06-070. It does have an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and the outer diameter at 3.376 inches will fit the hub in the disc brake kit. Spring...
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  • Bearings and Races for 7,000 Pound Trailer Axle
  • The most common bearings and seals for a 7,000 pound axle are # 25580 inner bearing, # 14125A outer bearing, # 25520 inner race and # 14276 outer race. The grease seal can vary, and will usually either be the # GS-2250DL, which has a 2.250 inch inner diameter and 3.376 outer diameter, or # GS2125DL with a 2.125 inch inner diameter and 3.376 inch outer diameter. We do also offer complete bearing kits for this axle. For the GS-2250DL grease seal, you can use the Kit # BK3-200. For the...
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  • Recommended Bearing Kit For 7K Lippert Axles On Grand Design Reflection 367bhs
  • For your Lippert 7k axle you would want the part # BK3-200 if the seal inner diameter needed is 2.25 inches or part # BK3-210 for inner diameter of 2.125 inches. You can use a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to confirm size, or check the part number listed on the seal itself if it is legible. I've attached an article to help with this.
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  • Converting Three 7,000 Pound Dexter Axles to Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes
  • I can certainly help you out with a disc brake set up on your trailer. The first thing we need to find out in order to select the correct parts would be the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the sides of the bearings in the hubs you have now. With that information I can ensure that we get you the right parts. I would also need to know the bolt pattern of the wheels and what kind of braking system the trailer currently has. Also, do all 3 of the axles have brake mounting flanges?...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for a 5,200 Pound EZ Lube Trailer Axle
  • On your EZ Lube 5,200 pound trailer axle the inner bearing is going to be # 25580. The outer bearing is likely going to be # 14125A. With these bearings you could have one of two seal possibilities. Bearing kit # BK3-200 comes the bearings above and with a seal that has a 2-1/4 inch inner diameter. The other option is bearing kit # BK3-210. It also has the above bearings but the seal in it is 2-1/8 inches inner diameter. You can determine which one you will need by measuring either...
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  • Replacement Hubs with 5-on-4-3/4 Wheel Bolt Pattern
  • We do offer 5-on-4-3/4 hubs that you can see on the linked page. These include both idler hubs like # 845475UC1 and hub/drums like # 845476UC3. Be sure to check the bearings in your current hubs for their part numbers; new hubs have to use the same bearings or they will not fit on your spindles. The linked photo will show you where to find those part numbers. Also note that mobile home axles are intended for a single use only (to transport the MH) but not for ongoing use like a trailer axle.
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  • Bearings and Brake Assembly Recommendation for Dexter P12 Axle
  • There are two different bearing kits that could work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need the part # BK3-210. If you need a 2-1/4 inch seal you would need the part # BK3-200. For a brake assembly kit for both sides of the axle you would want the part # AKEBRK-6 which is a 12 inch electric brake kit.
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  • Dexter 7000 lb Axle Bearing Kit Recommendation
  • For 7k Dexter axle bearings you have two options depending on the inner diameter of the seal you need. You would need part # BK3-200 for if your seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches. Or part # BK3-210 for if your seal inner diameter is 2.125 inches. I wish these were USA made bearing kits, but at this time none are available to us.
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  • How to Pick Out Bearings for a Dexter P-21 SLR Axle
  • We checked with Dexter and P-21 just indicates where the axle was made. With the serial number we could track down more info on your axle. However, in the mean time you could pretty easily get the bearing numbers off of your current bearings and then check out the link I attached to see what each bearing kit contains to see which would work. There are two different bearing kits that would MOST LIKELY work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need...
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  • What is the Correct Bearing Kit for a Dexter Hub and Drum Assembly 8-219
  • There are a few different types of 8-219 hubs, some that take a 2-1/4 inch inner diameter seal and some that take a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter. The bearing kit # BK3-200 you referenced will work with the trailer hub and drum assembly 8-219 as long as the seal diameter is 2-1/4 inches. Check the part numbers on your bearings so you can match them to the correct kit. If your spindle diameter measures 2-1/8 inches where the seal rides using a digital caliper, the bearing kit you need...
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  • Recommended Parts To Convert Electric Drum Brakes To Electric-Over-Hydraulic Disc Brakes
  • To convert your electric drum brakes to electric over hydraulic disc brakes, you will need disc brake assemblies, a brake line kit and an electric over hydraulic actuator. The disc brake kit I recommend with an 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern and fit on your 7,000-lb axles I recommend part # K2HR712E. This kit has an e-coat finish to help prevent corrosion. This kit comes with 2 hub/rotor assemblies, to convert 1 trailer axle. If you are using brakes on both axles you will need 2 kits....
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals For Dexter P-12 Axle Serial Number D4231278
  • Your Dexter P-12 SLR axle Serial Number D4231278 is an older 7K torsion axle made for the FeatherLite trailer company. The inner bearing is part # 25580; the outer bearing is part # 14125A; and the grease seal is a 10-36, part # RG06-070. I confirmed all of the above with my contact at Dexter axle. You can order these items individually or as a bearing//seal kit # BK3-200 which also includes races.
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  • Which Bearing Kit Fits Dexter 7,000 lb Axle
  • Yes, the bearing kit part # BK3-210 does fit a good portion of the 7,000 lb Dexter axles out there, but some of the 7k Dexter axles require a slightly larger grease seal which instead requires the kit part # BK3-200. What you'll want to do is measure the spindle you have where the grease seal rides for it's outer diameter. If it's 2.125 inch you need the part # BK3-210. If instead it's 2.25 inch you'd need the part # BK3-200.
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  • Bearings, Disc Brake Bolts, and Grease Seal for 2001 40-ft PJ Flatbed Trailer
  • Your attached photo indicates that you have an 8-lug wheel. The most common axle capacity for an 8 on 6-1/2 wheel bolt pattern is 7,000. If you do have a 7,000-lb capacity axle, your outer bearing will be # 14125A, and your grease seal will either be # RG06-070 or # GS-2125DL. I've attached an image showing how to measure your spindle to determine your bearing and grease seal diameters. It's best to confirm these measurements before purchasing a replacement part. You can purchase these...
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  • Compatibility of Kodiak # K2R79 Disc Brake Kit with 5th Wheel w/ Tandem 7K Dexter Axles
  • The Kodiak # K2R79 disc brake kit is designed to slip over an idler hub, not a hub drum. A 7K Dexter axle uses the 25580 inner bearing and a 14125A outer bearing with a 10-36 grease seal. To make that particular kit work, you'd need to remove the existing hub drum and electric brake assembly and install an idler hub that's compatible with your existing axle spindles, like part # 42865-KIT. You'd be better off going with a hub/rotor kit. I'd recommend using the Kodiak # K2HR712E and...
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  • Replacement Grease Cap Plugs, Bearings and Brakes for 2005 Big Tex 14GN Trailer
  • For a replacement rubber plug for your trailer grease caps you can use part # DC-RP from TruRyde. This fits a 1.18-inch hole in a grease cap like # RG04-040. We do offer replacement bearings, bearing kits and brake components as well. Complete bearing kits for 7K axles can be seen on the link provided. Both use inner bearing 25580 and outer bearing 14125A. Kit # BK3-210 includes a seal with an I.D. of 2.125-inches and kit # BK3-200 uses a seal with an I.D. of 2.250-inches. Individual...
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  • Disc Brake Kit with 8 on 6-1/2 Bolt Pattern for 7,000 Pound Axle
  • Since you have 6 lugs it's very possible you have 6,000 pound axles. But either way you can upgrade to an 8 lug for 7,000 pound axles. You'll need to replace the bearings, races, and seals to match the new sized hubs. The Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR712E with Bearing Kit # BK3-200 will work great on your trailer. These have an e-coat finish to help prevent corrosion from the elements. If you don't already have disc brakes you're also going to need an electric over hydraulic actuator...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for a Dexter SLR Axle
  • There are two different bearing kits that could work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need the part # BK3-210. If you need a 2-1/4 inch seal you would need the part # BK3-200. You will need to remove the hub and measure the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides to see which kit you would need.
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  • Converting Electric Brakes to Electric Over Hydraulic Disc Brakes 2006 Heartland Big Horn 5th Wheel
  • We can certainly help you with the components you will need in order to convert your trailer to electric over hydraulic disc brakes. To convert your brakes, you will want to add disc brake hub/rotor assemblies, an electric over hydraulic actuator, and a brake line kit to your trailer. For a disc brake kit that will match your 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern and fit on your 6,000 pound axles, I recommend the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit with 13 Inch Hub/Rotor and 8 on 6-1/2 Bolt Pattern # K2HR712E....
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit Recommendation for 2012 Redwood Fifth Wheel with 7k Axle
  • We have the bearings and seal you mentioned but we do not carry the Timken brand at this time. We do have a kit that has all of the bearings you mentioned together. For that you would want the part # BK3-200. The kit you referenced # BK3-210 uses the wrong seal. It would be too small.
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Info for this part was:

Photos by:
Theodore B
Expert Research:
Michael L
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video by:
Joshua S
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Dustin K
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Alexander C
Installed by:
Brent H

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