1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
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  4. Standard Bearings
  5. 3500 lbs Axle
  6. 1.063 Inch I.D.
Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Item # L44649
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps L44649 - Bearing L44649 - etrailer
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 part number L44649 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44649

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 1.063 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44649
  • Race L44610

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.063"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L44610
  • Application:
    • Inner/outer bearing for BTR spindle
    • Outer bearing for #84 spindle


L44649 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 - L44649

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (184 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L44649
by:

product and service --couldn't ask for more !!! super fast delivery !!! 695075



- L44649
by:

Replaced all the wheel bearings in my boat trailer, fit perfect and service was great. 650264



- L44649
by:

Correct tolerances and easy to install 608198



- L44649
by:

I needed these bearings for my boat trailer. Easy purchase, super fast delivery, and the right product. Installed them the same day and took the trailer along on vacation to the Florida Keys. Launched the boat in salt water several times, then towed it home again. Back home I just did a good lube with marine grease through the nipple on the bearing saver. Since then I have towed and launched many times in salt water and the bearings are still as good as the day I installed them. Good quality product that lasts well if you take care of it. 720955



- L44649
by:

I keep a complete set of bearings in my repair kit. These are excellent quality and outlast items obtained from TSC or Northern Tool. You can clean them after use, repack them with grease and they’re ready to go for round two. 698843



- L44649
by:

The only reason I do not give you 5 stars is because your web site. When internet ordering, it should instantly state when a part is out of stock. Even nicer would be expected restocking dates. The parts received were exactly what I ordered for my electric brake conversion from surge brakes at far less expense than reparing the internally rusted surge brake system. There was a plethora of information on your web site to assist me in ordering the correct parts for the conversion. Plus there were videos to see how to complete the conversion and how parts were installed and adjusted. Customer service was excellent. 659633



- L44649
by:

I could not be happier, What a diiference to have not just good brakes, but great brakes. Plus, the install was so easy, all the hardware was a perfect fit, instructions were right on the money (btw, I'm a retired engineer from a nuclear plant and I wrote procedures, so I'm picky) Anyway, towed the boat 1,000 miles and what a reassuring feeling to know that the equipment is in good working order and does the job when called upon. I'm attaching a couple of pictures so you can see what I did. Thanks again, I will be using etrailer in the future anytime I need something, feel free to pass on my comments 614788



- L44649
by:

etrailer ROCKS! UPS SUCKS! I ordered 5 bearings to have an extra on hand. I'm glad I ordered the 'extra' one as UPS ripped the package and one ended up missing. etrailer has shipped my last orders amazingly quick! It's almost like my order has been shipped before I confirm the purchase. Products have been great and I will always come back to them when I need more parts! 649984



- L44649
by:

Unacceptable. Please read this review carefully before considering purchase. Pros: quick response to questions (1 star). Cons: See Attached photo, packaging was minimal with all bearing, races and seals loose in box. Anyone That knows anything about bearings, races and seals know they should not be handles or shipped this way. Probable damage has occurred to these parts making them unusable. These can not be installed and used with any confidence. (0 stars, negative if possible) 509282



- L44649
by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!! 282939



- L44649
by:

The trailer rolls again 804115



- L44649
by:

As I have come to expect from Etrailer, this was a perfect fit for my single axle boat trailer. I replaced all 4, the races, seals and added stainless steel bearing buddies. No more worry about failures even when launching in salt water. 794363



- L44649
by:

This is just what I ordered everything came together and on time. I have yet to replace the grease seals but they match just what I had 791372



- L44649
by:

Have ordered many items many times from etrailer for several trailers. Built one from parts they supplied. Always quality parts combined with fast delivery accompanied by more than competitive prices. 761890



- L44649
by:

Good quality product, friendly helpful support, fast shipping. 722206



- L44649
by:

They appear to be well made and a perfect fit, I haven't had the trailer out yet but I don't forsee any problems. 721391



- L44649
by:

Great product, fast shipping 705446



- L44649
by:

Great customer service! 699325



- L44649
by:

Thanks James, Received all the products Friday! All parts were correct went together just as I planned... Thanks!!!! 693962



- L44649
by:

The first time experience with Etrailer has been good on stock availability. Delivery was met. Overall the communication with Etrailer was excellent. The install videos on the items were very useful. I definitely will look at Etrailer first for any future needs. 692427



- L44649
by:

Bought as a spare but appears to be good quality. 683634



- L44649
by:

I purchased bearing and hubs for a utility trailer over a year ago, they are still working perfectly, have been very happy with the quality 682261



- L44649
by:

Worked great 669559



- L44649
by:

Everything looks excellent. Adam did a super job putting together this package. I will be buying from etrailer again. Thanks Louis 670632



- L44649
by:

Great product, perfect fit, good price 669835


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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    From what I was able to find out from my research, the Tie Down Engineering 11033 hub has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern and is designed for 3500-lb axles. Replacement hubs that have these specs typically use a # L68149 inner bearing and # L44649 outer bearing, as well as inner race # L68111 , outer race # L44610 and grease seals with inner diameter of 1.719" and outer diameter of 2.565". You'll want to verify that your current hubs have these bearings, races and seals to ensure that a...
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    I was able to locate the correct bearings, races and seal that correspond to the part numbers you provided in your question. For bearings you will need the part # L44649 and for races you will want # L44610. Then for the grease seal you will use part # 13194. You can also take a few quick measurements on the trailer spindle at various locations to verify that these are the correct replacement parts. I have attached an image that shows where these measurements should be taken. You...
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    To find the correct hub for your axle you typically need to find the part numbers for your bearings and grease seal, or the diameter of the different spots that they sit on your spindle. We actually have had a customer who sent this information in to us so I am able to help you find exactly what you are needing. According to the customer, your UFP H-1062-3 axle has a spindle that has # L44649 inner and outer bearings, and a grease seal that has a 1.979" OD and a 1.372" ID, like part...
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  • Trailer Hub With Inner Bearing LM67048 and Outer Bearing L44649 and 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern
    I can help, because we do have one hub that uses a # LM67048 inner bearing, # L44649 outer bearing and has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern, the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum for 3,000-lb Axles # 008-418-02, which will fit your spindle. I have added a link to a video review of this hub and drum for you to check out as well.
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  • Parts Needed to Add Disc Brakes to Drum Brake Trailer
    If you have Atwood surge coupler # 83010 and you want to convert the trailer from drum brakes to disc brakes on one axle you will need to either replace the coupler or replace the master cylinder inside it with one that delivers the higher psi pressure required by disc brakes. Disc brakes need psi pressure in the 1500-1600-psi range so a new 8K-rated actuator/coupler like # T4747220 is needed. If the trailer has two 3500-lb axles (which would be expected if it has the 8K-rated Atwood...
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  • Replacement Axle, Hubs and Wheels for 1997 Jayco Pop-Up Camper 8SD
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  • Replacement Hubs for Boat Trailer with L44549 Inner and Outer Bearings
    I'm guessing you actually have bearings # L44649 and you either mistyped or the bearing number is difficult to read. Having # L44649 as both the inner and outer is a very popular combination on 2,000 pound axles. If you need to verify to be sure this is what you have measure the inner diameter of the bearings with a digital caliper, like part # PTW80157. It should meaure 1.063 inches. I've also done some research and found that bearing L44549 has the same dimensions as # L44649 so it...
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  • D Washer Replacement Needed for a Spindle
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    We have had a customer with UFP hub HD-1377 successfully use as a replacement the hub/drum # AKHD-545-35-K which works on 3500-lb axles. This hub uses inner bearing # L68149 (1.378" inner diameter) and outer bearing # L44649 (1.063" inner diameter). If your original hub bearing numbers or inner diameters match this will work fine. The Synthetic Bearing Oil option we offer is Kodiak # XLPROLUBE.
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  • How to Determine Needed Replacement Wheel Bearing If Bearing Reference Number Isn't Readable
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  • How to Find Bearing Replacements for a Trailer Hub
    In order to pick out the correct bearing and seals for you trailer you are going to have to remove your current hubs and get either the numbers that are stamped on them or use a dial or digital caliper to measure the area where your bearings and spindles ride. I wish we had access to the hub info for you vehicle but there isn't a database that has all of the info so you have to manually find it.
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  • Boat Trailer with L44649 Bearings and 1.24 Inch I.D. Grease Seals
    The spindles you have on your boat trailer are not standard which means we do not have a trailer hub with the correct bearings and seals you need. The best option for you would be to just replace the bearings with part # L44649 and seals with part # 34823 as I am sure it would be difficult to find such an odd hub. However, if you absolutely want to replace the integrated wheel/hub with an idler hub then you would need to replace the spindle with something like part # R104BTREZ which...
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  • Bearing and Brake Assembly Kit Recommendation for Dexter Hub 8-250
    From previous customers we have determined that the Dexter 8-250 hub bearings are # L68149 and # L44649 which means for a bearing kit you would need # BK2-100. That means for brake assemblies you would need the part # AKEBRK-35R-SA for the right hand side and part # AKEBRK-35L-SA for the left hand side.
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  • Replacement Hub and Drum, Bearings, and Brakes for a 2007 Nomad Trailer
    Based on the brake number you have provided you will need 10 x 2-1/4 inch brakes # AKEBRK-35L for the left side. Brakes should be replaced in pairs so they wear evenly so the matching right side is # AKEBRK-35R. For the hubs it appears that you have a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. I believe that the hubs for this size axle use inner bearing L68149 and outer bearing L44649. You can check the bearings in one of the other hubs to verify this. Based on this information hub and drum assembly #...
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  • Why Bearing 30205 Needs Exact Replacement
    Bearing # L44649 will not work as a replacement for bearing 30205 because they have different inner diameters. Bearing 30205 has a 0.985 inch inner diameter and L44649 has a 1.063 inch inner diameter. I'm not certain why a manufacturer would tell you this would work as a replacement but the only option you have is to find a 30205 bearing which is likely going to be from your trailer manufacturer. It needs an exact replacement because otherwise the bearing will not seat properly. Apart...
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  • Replacement Hub Assemblies for Demco Kar Kaddy Tow Dolly
    In order to select appropriate replacement hub assemblies you'll just need to match the part numbers or the characteristics of your hubs. You will need to match up your bearing and seal numbers from the original parts if possible, as well as the axle's weight rating (which should be indicted on the axle itself) and the wheel bolt pattern. The linked article shows you how to determine your bolt pattern. The Demco website shows several models of their Kar Kaddy tow dolly but does not include...
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  • Difference Between L44649 and L44949 Trailer Hub Bearings
    The # L44649 bearing referenced in your question features an inner diameter of 1.063 inches and is typically used as the inner and outer bearing on the BTR spindle or the outer bearing on a # 84 spindle. I was not able to find any information on the L44949 bearing that you also mentioned. If you are reading the number stamped onto the inside of the bearing, it's possible that it is simply worn enough that the numbers are difficult to decipher. To be sure, you can simply take a quick...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings for a Trailer Hub
    On the side of the bearing there should be a number stamped into it. If you can get that number we can see what would work as a replacement. Or if that number can't be found you can measure the spindle diameter where the bearing rides to see what would work as a replacement. Check out the picture I attached for more info.
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  • Recommended 2.08 Diameter Grease Caps For Trailer
    We carry grease caps that fit a 2.08 diameter hub bore. Unfortunately, we do not carry dust caps with that diameter. The grease caps I recommend are Bearing Buddy, part # BB2080SS for non threaded hubs, and part # BB2080T-SS for hub bores that are 2.08 inch and that have 12 threads per inch. These seat into your hub and provide an easy way to protect your bearings from dirt and water,and makes adding grease to the bearings very quick and simple, with the included grease fitting. I pulled...
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  • Which is Better Single or Double Lip Seal
    Double lip seals are better in every way than single lip seals so we always recommend them. For example, the part # RG06-050 is the correct double lip for use on a 3,500 lb axle where the # L44649 is normally used.
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  • What Race Does the L44649R Bearing Use
    The difference between the L44649 and the L44649R is not the size of the race used as you have found. Typically the R indicates that the bearing was used in a higher capacity application. Dimensionally the bearings are the same and would take the same # L44610 race.
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  • Choosing Replacement Disc Brakes Components for Rolco Trailer
    First, you'll need to confirm the axle capacity - this is usually noted on a sticker or plate on the axle itself. You need to choose a kit with the correct braking capacity to match the trailer axle rating. Since you do not know the brand of caliper and rotor you have I cannot recommend trying to replace just the calipers; I recommend installing a new kit with matching components that you know will be compatible with each other. You also need to match the wheel size of your trailer,...
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  • Which Bearings Go with Race L44610 on a JetSki Trailer
    The numbers on races can be hard to read especially if they are worn. But you probably have a # L44610 race. This race is associated with 2 different bearings, # L44643 and # L44649. These bearings have slightly different dimensions so knowing the right bearing numbers or the diameter of the spindle where the bearings ride is essential. If you no longer have the old bearings or can't read the numbers then you can measure the spindle. The measurements have to be as accurate as possible...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for Trailer with L44649 Inner and Outer Bearings and Seal 15192TB
    Based on the bearing and seal numbers you have provided the correct bearing kit for you is # BK1-150. It has inner/outer bearings L44649 and a 10-60 seal. The 10-60 seal, # RG06-020, that comes in the kit is the same as the Transcom brand 15192TB that you referenced. Be sure to check the hubs for any indication of damage. If the bearings have black discoloration that is a sign they were overheated and there could be other damage that is not obvious to other components.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 2000 Viking Pop Up Camper with L44649 Inner and Outer Bearings
    If both your inner and outer bearings are # L44649 then the correct replacement kit is # BK1-150.
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  • What is the Inner Diameter of Trailer Bearings L44649 and L68149
    The inner diameter of bearing # L44649 is 1.063 inches. The inner diameter of bearing # L68149 is 1.378 inches. Both fit on a #84 spindle. The matching race for bearing L44649 is # L44610. And the matching race for bearing L68149 is # L68111. These bearings and races along with a grease seal associated with them (10-19 seal), cotter pin, and tang washer are available together in a kit, # BK2-100. The seal inner diameter is 1.719 inches.
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  • How to Determine Axle Capacity on an Unknown Trailer with No Markings
    Most trailer axles will have an ID tag or sticker located on the axle that will have information like manufacturer and weight capacity. However, over time the numbers on these IDs will wear off or even fall off the axle completely. If the axle is missing its ID tag or sticker, then it is possible to identify weight capacity by the measuring the diameter of the axle tube. I have listed the typical axle weight capacities based on axle tube diameter: - 1,000-lb - 2,000-lb Axles: 1-1/2...
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