1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. etrailer
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  4. Standard Bearings
  5. 3500 lbs Axle
  6. 1.063 Inch I.D.
Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Item # L44649
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Our Price: $7.11
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps L44649 - Bearing L44649 - etrailer
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 part number L44649 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44649

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 1.063 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44649
  • Race L44610

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.063"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L44610
  • Application:
    • Inner/outer bearing for BTR spindle
    • Outer bearing for #84 spindle


L44649 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 - L44649

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (211 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L44649
by:

Replaced all the wheel bearings in my boat trailer, fit perfect and service was great. 650264



- L44649
by:

Correct tolerances and easy to install 608198



- L44649
by:

I needed these bearings for my boat trailer. Easy purchase, super fast delivery, and the right product. Installed them the same day and took the trailer along on vacation to the Florida Keys. Launched the boat in salt water several times, then towed it home again. Back home I just did a good lube with marine grease through the nipple on the bearing saver. Since then I have towed and launched many times in salt water and the bearings are still as good as the day I installed them. Good quality product that lasts well if you take care of it. 720955



- L44649
by:

I keep a complete set of bearings in my repair kit. These are excellent quality and outlast items obtained from TSC or Northern Tool. You can clean them after use, repack them with grease and they’re ready to go for round two. 698843



- L44649
by:

The only reason I do not give you 5 stars is because your web site. When internet ordering, it should instantly state when a part is out of stock. Even nicer would be expected restocking dates. The parts received were exactly what I ordered for my electric brake conversion from surge brakes at far less expense than reparing the internally rusted surge brake system. There was a plethora of information on your web site to assist me in ordering the correct parts for the conversion. Plus there were videos to see how to complete the conversion and how parts were installed and adjusted. Customer service was excellent. 659633



- L44649
by:

I could not be happier, What a diiference to have not just good brakes, but great brakes. Plus, the install was so easy, all the hardware was a perfect fit, instructions were right on the money (btw, I'm a retired engineer from a nuclear plant and I wrote procedures, so I'm picky) Anyway, towed the boat 1,000 miles and what a reassuring feeling to know that the equipment is in good working order and does the job when called upon. I'm attaching a couple of pictures so you can see what I did. Thanks again, I will be using etrailer in the future anytime I need something, feel free to pass on my comments 614788



- L44649
by:

Unacceptable. Please read this review carefully before considering purchase. Pros: quick response to questions (1 star). Cons: See Attached photo, packaging was minimal with all bearing, races and seals loose in box. Anyone That knows anything about bearings, races and seals know they should not be handles or shipped this way. Probable damage has occurred to these parts making them unusable. These can not be installed and used with any confidence. (0 stars, negative if possible) 509282



- L44649
by:

897144



- L44649
by: 09/30/2020

894855



- L44649
by:

Great product, fast service, decent price, may the Lord continue to bless this business 882364



- L44649
by:

Took some searching from the sales lady but found the correct parts. Thanks for the effort! The trailer parts came within days. Faster than I expected. 894926



- L44649
by: 09/09/2020

876423



- L44649
by:

Found what I needed at etrailer and received good quality parts. 874681



- L44649
by:

great customer service 867813



- L44649
by:

Great quality 863327



- L44649
by:

859834



- L44649
by:

Great price, rolls well. 857190



- L44649
by:

replaced one side whole hub cause bearing went out so did other side new bearings, been working fine 853485



- L44649
by:

Great site - I loved my experience. Couldn't be more pleased!! Thanks - you're a class act!! 857138



- L44649
by:

Great service and quality parts. 852850



- L44649
by:

Great customer service and support. Made it easy to get what I needed to get my trailer back on the roads quickly!! 856118



- L44649
by:

I really enjoy the customer service. It is second to none. Keep up the good work!! 850496



- L44649
by:

Fit as expected. No problems. 849447



- L44649
by:

Exactly what I needed and fast service. 846277



- L44649
by:

Ordered a 10”brake kit and bearings for my boat trailer, it all came in quick and bolted right up. Paula was a big help in getting my order straight for me! Thanks 852289


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Can 1 Inch Trailer Hub Bearings Replace 1-1/16 Inch Bearings
    If your existing hub uses 1-1/16 inch bearings, they will need to be replaced the exact same size bearings and races, # L44649, and # L44610. We also have the complete bearing kit available as part # BK1-150, which includes two 1-1/16 bearings and matching races, as well as a grease seal, cotter pin and EZ Lube spindle washer. Although one sixteenth of an inch may not seem like much of a difference, no parts are more critical for the dependable performance of your trailer than the bearings,...
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  • Replacement Hub Assembly for T.D.E. 11033
    From what I was able to find out from my research, the Tie Down Engineering 11033 hub has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern and is designed for 3500-lb axles. Replacement hubs that have these specs typically use a # L68149 inner bearing and # L44649 outer bearing, as well as inner race # L68111 , outer race # L44610 and grease seals with inner diameter of 1.719" and outer diameter of 2.565". You'll want to verify that your current hubs have these bearings, races and seals to ensure that a...
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  • Trailer Hub With Inner Bearing LM67048 and Outer Bearing L44649 and 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern
    I can help, because we do have one hub that uses a # LM67048 inner bearing, # L44649 outer bearing and has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern, the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum for 3,000-lb Axles # 008-418-02, which will fit your spindle. I have added a link to a video review of this hub and drum for you to check out as well.
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  • Replacement Hub, Bearing, and Grease Seal Kit for a UFP H-1062-3 Axle
    To find the correct hub for your axle you typically need to find the part numbers for your bearings and grease seal, or the diameter of the different spots that they sit on your spindle. We actually have had a customer who sent this information in to us so I am able to help you find exactly what you are needing. According to the customer, your UFP H-1062-3 axle has a spindle that has # L44649 inner and outer bearings, and a grease seal that has a 1.979" OD and a 1.372" ID, like part...
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  • New Hydraulic Brakes, Actuator & Measuring for Replacement 10 Inch Hub and Drum on Boat Trailer
    While we can get you the correct hydraulic brakes as well as an actuator, the measurements you gave for your bearings only coincide with one idler hub. The issue with bearings is that the measurements do need to be very exact, so I strongly recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 and measuring your spindle where the bearings ride to get the exact measurement. Since you mentioned a 10 inch brake drum, and you got the (fantastic looking) Aluminum Viking Series Valhalla Trailer...
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  • Replacement Hub For 2007 Marine Master Trailer With UFP 2,000 Lb Axle
    Your axle is a UFP axle which is made by Dexter Axle. I contacted them with your serial number and they were able to tell me your axle is a 2,000 lb axle with a 76" hub face to hub face and 62" spring center to spring center. The bearings are inner and outer part # L44649. Dexter said your original hub is a 2,500 lb idler hub. You can replace your idler hub assembly with Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 part # TA88545-2 that uses the inner/outer bearings part...
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  • D Washer Replacement Needed for a Spindle
    It sounds like the washer you are looking for is like part # 5-23 which I have added a photo with specs for you to reference. This type of washer is held in place with a spindle washer like part # 5-101. Are you looking for a replacement bearing as well? If you could let me know what the bearing number is, like the the popular # L44649, then I can help you out with getting a replacement.
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  • Replacement Hubs for Boat Trailer with L44549 Inner and Outer Bearings
    I'm guessing you actually have bearings # L44649 and you either mistyped or the bearing number is difficult to read. Having # L44649 as both the inner and outer is a very popular combination on 2,000 pound axles. If you need to verify to be sure this is what you have measure the inner diameter of the bearings with a digital caliper, like part # PTW80157. It should meaure 1.063 inches. I've also done some research and found that bearing L44549 has the same dimensions as # L44649 so it...
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  • Replacement Axle, Hubs and Wheels for 1997 Jayco Pop-Up Camper 8SD
    Your photo of your Jayco pop-up does appear to show a corroded outer roller bearing along with your 5.70-8 tire and 4-on-4 wheel, such as # AM30153 and the similar items shown on the linked page. Your size wheel/tire is usually found on an axle rated for 2000-lbs, like the complete Dexter axle/hub kit # 20440I-ST-60 for example. This this axle weight rating usually uses either bearing # L44643 or # L44649 but due to the condition of your bearings it will be just about impossible to accurately...
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  • Info Needed to Pick Out Trailer Hub Replacement
    The bearing number L45449 does not match anything that I can find so I'll need you to get me the dimensions of your trailer spindle where the bearings ride as well as the bolt pattern of your wheels and we'll be able to set you up with the correct hub. See the attached picture for where to measure.
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  • Bearings for EZ Loader Boat Trailer 1-TALB 19-22 4000
    Based on the model number you have a 4,000 lb capacity EZ Loader trailer, and will need the following bearings, races, and seal: - Bearings: # L44649 and # L68149 - Races: # L68111 and # L44610 - Seal: # 168255TB
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  • Why Bearing 30205 Needs Exact Replacement
    Bearing # L44649 will not work as a replacement for bearing 30205 because they have different inner diameters. Bearing 30205 has a 0.985 inch inner diameter and L44649 has a 1.063 inch inner diameter. I'm not certain why a manufacturer would tell you this would work as a replacement but the only option you have is to find a 30205 bearing which is likely going to be from your trailer manufacturer. It needs an exact replacement because otherwise the bearing will not seat properly. Apart...
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  • Are Chinese Bearings Safe to Use on Trailers
    The vast majority of bearings that are used on trailers are manufactured in China. I know that there is a looming mentality that anything from China is cheap and will break easily, but in the case of bearings, like the popular # L44649, you will get a standard lifespan out of it and you don't need to worry about it wearing out prematurely. One note I'd like to make about bearings is that their lifespan is partly dependent upon how well they are maintained and used. For example, if you...
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  • Locating Replacement Hubs for Hadco 394 Assemblies on 2000 Utility Trailer
    There is a way to determine the right replacement hubs for your older trailer, but I wasn't able to cross-reference your Hadco assemblies to another model using the 394 stamped onto the hub. Your best option is going to be to pull one of the hubs and remove the inner and outer bearings. There should hopefully be a number printed right inside the bearings themselves but if not, you can also take a few measurements along the spindle with a digital caliper like # 301-17068 (see attached...
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  • How to Determine Needed Replacement Wheel Bearing If Bearing Reference Number Isn't Readable
    If you can't obtain the bearing reference number, you can use an accurate measuring tool such as a digital caliper to measure the inside diameter of the bearing (a ruler or measuring tape wouldn't be accurate enough.) You can also measure the diameter of the spindle where the bearing would ride. Another option would be to knock out one of the bearing races and get the reference number off the race. With the race number, we can usually find its matching bearing.
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  • What Trailer Hubs Fit 84 Spindle
    The 84 spindle fits 3,500 lb axle hubs like the Dexter hub # 84546UC3-EZ which has a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern and has a brake drum integrated into it. To see all of the 3,500 lb hubs we offer that would fit an 84 spindle check out the link I attached.
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  • How Tight to Torque Spindle Nut on Trailer Axle with Sealed Bearings
    When you install the sealed bearings on a spindle there is no specific torque rating for the castle nut that holds your hub in place. We recommend tightening the castle nut down until it stops, and then backing it off slightly. Since your spindle nut is self locking it won't back itself off. Over tightening the nut can lead to the spindles and bearings overheating, which can damage them. We have a video that outlines the proper way to remove and install a trailer hub, to view the video,...
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  • Is Trailer Hub Part Number L44610 Same as Bearing L44649
    The part # L44610 is actually a race intended to be used with the bearing # L44643. This bearing would not be a suitable replacement for a # L44649 as the inner diameters are different.
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  • Replacement Hub Drum for Utility Trailer Using LM48548 Inner Bearings
    The LM48548 is commonly used as the inner bearing for a AH25555F agricultural hub. Agricultural hubs are generally a low-speed application that really aren't meant to be used at higher speeds. I'm sorry to say that none of the hub/drums we offer would be compatible with your spindles. You can look online for a replacement hub, but I'm afraid you'll find that replacing your axle with one that uses a more common bearing will be your best bet. We sell some off-the-shelf axles, if you would...
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  • Looking for Hub to Replace Dico # 45263
    You are going to need to track down a dial caliper or micrometer. I did some online research and wasn't able to find any results for a Dico 45263 hub, but I might be able to get you an equivalent. I'll need some more information to find you a replacement, including the number of lugs and bolt circle of the existing hub, the inner and outer bearing reference numbers, the grease seal reference number and whether it's a idler hub or a hub/drum. Since the numbers are unavailable, I'll need...
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  • Bearing and Brake Assembly Kit Recommendation for Dexter Hub 8-250
    From previous customers we have determined that the Dexter 8-250 hub bearings are # L68149 and # L44649 which means for a bearing kit you would need # BK2-100. That means for brake assemblies you would need the part # AKEBRK-35R-SA for the right hand side and part # AKEBRK-35L-SA for the left hand side.
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  • How To Find Correct Bearing Replacement For T23 Fleetwood Travel Trailer
    In order to make sure you get the correct bearings for your Fleetwood, you will need to remove the bearings that are currently installed. Bearings can have the same outside dimension but the inside diameter can vary. I have attached a photo with that shows where you can typically find the numbers on the bearings, race, and seal. That is the best way to make sure you get the correct replacement. If you are unable to find those numbers you will need to measure the spindle with a precision...
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  • Replacement Hubs, Tires, and Wheels for Calkins Boat Trailer with 3,500 Pound Axle
    It looks like your Calkins boat trailer is equipped with a 3,500 pound axle. If this is the case, it is extremely likely that your hubs use the # L68149 inner bearing and # L44649 outer bearing. Although this is most likely the case, the only way to verify this will be to simply pull one of your existing hubs and check for the numbers that should be printed inside the bearings themselves. You will also want to note the bolt pattern on your current hubs. I have attached a great article that...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    We have bearing kits as well as individual bearings, races, seals etc that you can see on the linked page. The easiest way to select new bearings is to match the part numbers from the original bearings. You can refer to the linked photo to see how these part numbers usually appear. We have no way to look up that information. If you cannot find the part numbers you can narrow things down based on the weight rating of the axle itself. You can find the axle weight rating ion the axle itself...
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  • Parts Needed to Add Disc Brakes to Drum Brake Trailer
    If you have Atwood surge coupler # 83010 and you want to convert the trailer from drum brakes to disc brakes on one axle you will need to either replace the coupler or replace the master cylinder inside it with one that delivers the higher psi pressure required by disc brakes. Disc brakes need psi pressure in the 1500-1600-psi range so a new 8K-rated actuator/coupler like # T4747220 is needed. If the trailer has two 3500-lb axles (which would be expected if it has the 8K-rated Atwood...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for Trailer with L44649 Inner and Outer Bearings and Seal 15192TB
    Based on the bearing and seal numbers you have provided the correct bearing kit for you is # BK1-150. It has inner/outer bearings L44649 and a 10-60 seal. The 10-60 seal, # RG06-020, that comes in the kit is the same as the Transcom brand 15192TB that you referenced. Be sure to check the hubs for any indication of damage. If the bearings have black discoloration that is a sign they were overheated and there could be other damage that is not obvious to other components.
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  • How to Find Bearing Replacements for a Trailer Hub
    In order to pick out the correct bearing and seals for you trailer you are going to have to remove your current hubs and get either the numbers that are stamped on them or use a dial or digital caliper to measure the area where your bearings and spindles ride. I wish we had access to the hub info for you vehicle but there isn't a database that has all of the info so you have to manually find it.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
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Michael H
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Jeff D
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Jameson C
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John H
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Adam R
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Video Edited:
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Updated by:
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