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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649

Item # L44649

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps L44649 - Bearing L44649 - etrailer
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 1.063 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L44649
  • Race L44610
High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 part number L44649 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (160)
  • Q & A (729)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44649

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.063"
  • Matching race (sold separately): L44610
  • Application:
    • Inner/outer bearing for BTR spindle
    • Outer bearing for #84 spindle


L44649 Replacement Bearing





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper LS Camper 107LS

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Sport Camper 108ST

2013 - 2015 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 11FDB

2013 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 11FK

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Sport Camper 125ST

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Classic Camper 1285SST

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper LS Camper 128LS

2016 - 2016 Coachmen Viking Camper 12RB

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Camper 12RBST

2016 - 2017 Coachmen Viking Camper 12RBST

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Camper 12RBSTHW

2016 - 2017 Coachmen Viking Camper 12RBSTHW

2016 - 2016 Coachmen Viking Camper 12RSST

2013 - 2013 Skyline Aljo GL Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2013 Skyline Layton GL Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Nomad Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2013 Skyline Aljo GL Travel Trailer 131B

2013 - 2013 Skyline Layton GL Travel Trailer 131B

2013 - 2013 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 131B

2013 - 2015 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 13BHB

2013 - 2015 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 13QBB

2013 - 2015 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 13RDB

2011 - 2012 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 140

2011 - 2012 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 140

2011 - 2012 Skyline Nomad Retro Travel Trailer 140

2011 - 2012 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 140

See All Vehicle Fits


Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - L44649 - L44649

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (160 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L44649
by:

Excellent transaction. Parts arrived on time as expected, were exactly what I ordered, and fit my trailer perfectly. Would definitely do business with etrailer again. 436468



- L44649
by:

Web site was great. Selection is great. Keigan really took the time to help me figure out the parts I need. Terrific experience overall. 188678



- L44649
by:

Bearings and seal are spare incase of emergency, they seem to work smoothly but come without any kind of protective cover or box. Bearings should be wrapped in a wax type paper and in a box. If the need come about I'm sure these will get me back on the road. I will buy from ETrailer again but will look for bearings made in the USA 335062



- L44649
by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!! 282939



- L44649
by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!! 207789



- L44649
by:

Bought 4 of these and they are made in China, the quality looks good and they fit ok too. I did measure the ID on the bearing and they meet the spec. for the trailer axle. I would like to know this up front when i purchase a bearing. I would like to have a choice when I am buying a product. USA made bearing or China. But overall i would recommend these bearings. 373484



- L44649
by:

Unacceptable. Please read this review carefully before considering purchase. Pros: quick response to questions (1 star). Cons: See Attached photo, packaging was minimal with all bearing, races and seals loose in box. Anyone That knows anything about bearings, races and seals know they should not be handles or shipped this way. Probable damage has occurred to these parts making them unusable. These can not be installed and used with any confidence. (0 stars, negative if possible) 509282



- L44649
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Have not installed yet seem like a quality bearing 617247



- L44649
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Showed up extremely fast and I didn’t expedite shipping. All parts I ordered showed up in great shape and was what I ordered. Will definitely use this company going forward for all my trailer needs 616559



- L44649
by:

I could not be happier, What a diiference to have not just good brakes, but great brakes. Plus, the install was so easy, all the hardware was a perfect fit, instructions were right on the money (btw, I'm a retired engineer from a nuclear plant and I wrote procedures, so I'm picky) Anyway, towed the boat 1,000 miles and what a reassuring feeling to know that the equipment is in good working order and does the job when called upon. I'm attaching a couple of pictures so you can see what I did. Thanks again, I will be using etrailer in the future anytime I need something, feel free to pass on my comments 614788



- L44649
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Hard to write a review on a wheel bearing until much later, but can say that customer service was excellent and website was easy to use. 609720



- L44649
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Correct tolerances and easy to install 608198



- L44649
by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos. 604449



- L44649
by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. Etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos. 604479



- L44649
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a 593001



- L44649
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Great service, real fast 592447



- L44649
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Fit perfectly 588577



- L44649
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1 582847



- L44649
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These bearing have quality and the Titan hub and rotor fit perfectly as a replacement to my rusted out ones. Very happy! 581560



- L44649
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An exact match for OEM bearing installed on my 3500 lb axle Triple Crown trailer. 581180



- L44649
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2nd purchased bearing as 1st was a dud 578329



- L44649
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Bearing was fine, as expected. 578215



- L44649
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product and service were excellent. thanks again Norm 577599



- L44649
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Works as expected 576968



- L44649
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Products fit and work as they should and your help and service on the telephone was great. Thanks 575408



- L44649
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bearing seem fine.exactly what i ordered.only wishE Trailer would fix the problem with my master card not working.works fine at all other online retailers.thanks 574833



- L44649
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Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed. 572868



- L44649
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A good bearing. Just does your basic bearing stuff. They fit my application and they roll, so I’m happy! 570027



- L44649
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I bought this kit last year to replaced the existing brakes and bearings on our 2010 Jayco 23B. We went on eight different camping trips this year and they work great! We noticed a huge improvement when applying the brakes to slow down or stopping the camper altogether. I highly recommend this kit because they were easy to install and the noticed stopping power.Please feel free to ask me any questions regarding this kit. 565942



- L44649
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need to be packed better 563186



- L44649
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Order was correct and delivered in 2 days. Items worked fine and were as described. 545324



- L44649
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Great product . Easy to install 529135



- L44649
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Always a great experience with etrailer, fast service, exact fit parts and easy to navigate the website 522405



- L44649
by:

Everything I needed was easy to identify and order through the etrailer.com site, and the order arrived quickly. The information and how-to videos were very helpful, and assisted me in getting my project completed easily. I wouldn't hesitate to use the site again, or to recommend to anyone needing parts for their trailer. 522478



- L44649
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World great !!! 519695



- L44649
by:

So, I needed new bearings and seals for a 1980 travel trailer wherein the axle, hubs and bearings had no markings. Diana (CSR) helped me work through through the options and was able to identify the correct parts. The bearings and seals came in and were a perfect fit. Everything was on time and intact. Very happy with my first etrailer buy. 518260



- L44649
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Perfect replacement. 513758



- L44649
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After making 4 other phone calls I finally discovered etrailer.com. Karen was awesome! She went above and beyond to help me find the parts I needed. Highly recommend. 512415



- L44649
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They Fit My Trailer Perfect So Everything Is Good!!! 511862



- L44649
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perfect fit, very helpful 509684



- L44649
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I love this store they sell great products not cheap Chinese junk. 503498



- L44649
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great product 497407



- L44649
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Have not installed any of my new parts as of yet! Very great service from Stacey! Thanks 497472


Comments

I need more stuff !!!

Ron - 04/16/2019

53010

- L44649
by:

Great bearing. Fits my 96 eagle trailer with 3500 lb axles. 496623



- L44649
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Installed and working fine. Good products at reasonable prices with good shipping. Very good vendor. 494830



- L44649
by:

Thank you for your assistance with my purchase of new hubs for my boat trailer. They are exactly as described and they fit perfectly on my trailer. I am attaching a few photo's of the hubs installed. I would recommend your company to everyone who needs hubs........EXCELLENT SERVICE. 492895



- L44649
by:

Not all your fault but I thought the race came with the bearing after all it is a vital part of the bearing. The way it’s listed “ bearing race seal” kind of makes you think all that comes together maybe adding “bearing only” to the listing would help a dummy like me order all the parts. 487816



- L44649
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great bearing still going 487482



- L44649
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etrailer and their customer service are the best i've seen, always there to talk you through the process to help ensure you're buying the right part and answer any questions. Great company! 486835



- L44649
by:

I am very pleased and satisfied with service and feedback from you guys. I got my part for my trailer in a very timely manner and more importantly it was the right part. Thank you very much. I highly recommend you to others. 484732


Comments

I’ve had no issues with the bearings and plan on buying all of them from you as needed. Thanks

Donald - 03/14/2019

50532
53
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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Stainless Steel Kodiak Disc Brakes for 3,500 Pound # 84 Spindle
  • A # 84 spindle, like # R40484, is a spindle for a 3,500 pound axle that has inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649. The bearing kit that fits is # BK2-100. To replace your brakes and hubs you'll need the Kodiak Stainless Steel Brake Kit # K2R35S with hubs # KH84545S. You'll also need the bearing kit # BK2-100 that I mentioned earlier.
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  • Replacement Hub/Drum Assembly Needed for a Dexter 8-147 Assembly
  • Your drum/hub that is the Dexter 8-147 part number should have an inner bearing # LM48548, an outer bearing # L44649, and a grease seal # 58846. If this is the case then we do have some hub/drum assemblies that would work great for your application. The hub/drum assembly that I recommend using is the part # AKHD-545-35-K which is compatible with 3,500 lb axles and has the bearings and seal that fit your spindle. It fits 10" brake assemblies so you will want to verify that on your end. This...
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  • Trailer Hub/Drum to Replace Damaged UFP HD-1377-10
  • We have had a customer with your same UFP hub HD-1377 successfully use as a replacement the hub/drum # AKHD-545-35-K which works on 3500-lb axles. This hub uses inner bearing # L68149 (1.378" inner diameter) and outer bearing # L44649 (1.063" inner diameter). If your original hub bearing numbers or inner diameters match this will work fine.
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  • Recommended Replacement Brake Hub and Drum Assemblies for AL-KO 8490 Brake System
  • I can definitely help you replace your AL-KO 8490 hub and drums that are worn. These hub and drum assemblies are for 3500 lbs axles, and there are some great replacement options for you. I recommend the etrailer.com Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-545-35-K. This hub and drum uses # L68149 inner bearing and # L44649 outer bearings. This assembly includes the bearings, races, grease seal, grease cap, and lug nuts. This has a 10 inch diameter and a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. For a 10...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for Dexter Hub 8-147
  • The inner bearings should be # LM48548 (1.375 inch inner diameter), outer bearing should be # L44649 (1.06 inch inner diameter) and the grease seal should be # 58846. I would recommend you pull your bearings out to verify that but that SHOULD be what you need.
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  • How to Determine the Correct Replacement Hubs for a Boat Trailer
  • To determine which hubs would be best for your boat trailer there are a few things you will need to look at; the axle capacity on your boat trailer, the inner bearing number, outer bearing number, grease seal number, the bolt pattern of your wheels, and whether or not your trailer has brakes. If you do not know what your axle capacity is you can find it located on the axle itself. It is usually located towards the middle and will typically be stamped into the axle. The bearing and...
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  • Replacement Hub and Rotor Assembly with 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern for 3,500 Pound Trailer Axle
  • From my research the hub and rotor assembly you're looking for is for a 3,500 pound axle with a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. It uses bearings # L68149 and # L44649 and has a Dacromet finish for marine use. If the bearing numbers match you can use # KHR10D for a replacement hub and rotor. The bearing kit that goes with it is # BK2-100
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  • Bearings and Brakes for a 3,500-lb Dexter Axle
  • Thank you very much for the picture! I spoke with my contact at Dexter Axle and gave him the numbers on your axle and he was able to supply me with the information that you are looking for. You have a 3,500-lb axle that uses 10 x 2-1/4" electric brakes, inner bearing # L68149, outer bearing # L44649, and grease seal # 58846. For your brakes I recommend using our Self-Adjusting Brake Kit # AKEBRK-35-SA because after the initial adjustment you don't have to worry about them until it is...
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  • Recommendation For Extra Hub/Drum For Dexter 8-249 Hubs
  • Dexter 8-249 hubs normally have inner bearings like Item # L68149 and outer bearings like Item # L44649. If these are your bearings (the size will be stamped on them) then it sounds like you need Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Item # 84556UC3 by Dexter which also has 8-249 stamped on them. This hub and drum assembly fits a 5 on 5 bolt pattern. You may also need Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Item # AKHD-555-35-K which fits a 5 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern. Be sure and check your bolt pattern...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Seal for 1993 Coleman Destiny Pop Up Camper
  • I was able to locate the correct bearings, races and seal that correspond to the part numbers you provided in your question. For bearings you will need the part # L44649 and for races you will want # L44610. Then for the grease seal you will use part # 13194. You can also take a few quick measurements on the trailer spindle at various locations to verify that these are the correct replacement parts. I have attached an image that shows where these measurements should be taken. You...
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  • How to Determine Correct Fit of Replacement Hub on Trailer Spindles
  • Our range of 5-on-5-1/2 hubs for 2000-lb to 3500-lb axles is shown on the linked page. These items include both idler hubs like # AKIHUB-555-35-K for trailers without brakes and also hub/drums like # AKHD-555-35-K for trailers with drum brakes. All hubs include bearings, races, seals and lug nuts. As it happens, all of these 5-on-5-1/2 hubs use the same set of bearings, inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649. A new hub has to use the same bearings as the one it replaces...
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  • Pre-Greased Replacement 5-on-5 Hub for 3500-lb Dexter Axle
  • You can confirm the weight rating of your Dexter axle by removing one hub and pulling its bearings. The included photo shows how part numbers usually appear on bearings. The specific bearings used will tell you the axle's weight rating. Just refer to the linked article that lists the bearings commonly used for various axle weight ratings. A new hub must use the same bearings as the original hub in order to fit on your spindles. A 3500-lb axle commonly uses bearings # L68149 and #...
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  • Replacement Hub, Bearing, and Grease Seal Kit for a UFP H-1062-3 Axle
  • To find the correct hub for your axle you typically need to find the part numbers for your bearings and grease seal, or the diameter of the different spots that they sit on your spindle. We actually have had a customer who sent this information in to us so I am able to help you find exactly what you are needing. According to the customer, your UFP H-1062-3 axle has a spindle that has # L44649 inner and outer bearings, and a grease seal that has a 1.979" OD and a 1.372" ID, like part...
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  • Recommended Electric Brakes and Hub and Drum Assembly for 3,500 Pound Axle
  • The etrailer.com Electric Trailer Brake Kit # AKEBRK-35-SA will work perfectly with the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-35-EZ-K referenced in your question. The Brake Kit will include both left and right electric brake assemblies and they have a 4 bolt mounting flange pattern. You will just want to make sure that the Hub and Drum Assembly is compatible with your trailer spindles. This assembly has # L68149 and # L44649 inner and outer bearings and # L68111 and # L44610 inner...
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  • Complete Electric Brake Installation for 2,000 lb Trailer Axle
  • With the axle measurement and the bearing number, I can confirm that you have 2,000 lb capacity axles on your trailers. You will want to get the Brake Mounting Flange, # 4-34, to weld onto each side of each axle. With that flange in place, you will want to mount the 7 inch Electric Trailer Brake Assembly # AKEBRK-2L on the left side of the axle and the # AKEBRK-2R on the right side of the axle. These are nearly identical parts, but installing on the correct side is very important....
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  • How to Choose the Correct Pre-Greased Replacement Hub for Snowbear Trailer
  • There are pre-greased hubs available in a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern. In order to find the correct replacement hub you can take apart your good hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If your hub has inner and outer bearings # L44643 you'd need CE Smith Trailer Hub Assembly w/ Carrying Case for 2,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 - Pre-Greased # CE13210. Should your hub have inner and outer...
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  • Replacement Bearing And Brake Pads For Titan 10 Inch Hub/Rotor
  • The inner bearing for your Titan # T4841100182 is the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # L68149 and the outer bearing is Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # L44649. If you need the seal, the replacement seal is # RG06-050. For your brake pads, I recommend the Replacement Brake Pads for Titan 10" and 12" Disc Brake Assemblies # T4870900. These are a confirmed fit.
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  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter Idler Hub Assembly for 3500 lb Axles # 84545BX
  • The bearing replacements I recommend for the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 3,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 # 84545BX are: Inner bearing: # L68149 (1.378" inner diameter) Outer bearing: # L44649 (1.063" inner diameter) If you need the grease seal, I recommend # 58846 or # RG06-050 which have the same measurements. You can get everything in a kit using just the Bearing Kit for 84 Spindle, L44649/L68149 Bearings, 10-19 Double Lip Seal # BK2-100. You may also be interested in...
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  • Replacement Hubs and Brake Assemblies for Dexter Mobile Home Axle and 8-147 Hubs
  • Based on the information you gave, although I can't help with the axle (other than to state it is a 3,500 lbs axle). Dexter mobile home axles were designed for one time use and weren't really documented for replacement parts, but because you have the hub number I can still give you the info you need for new drums and brakes. Your current Dexter hub 8-147 I was able to look up and it has an inner bearing # LM48548, an outer bearing # L44649, and a grease seal # 58846. Based on this information...
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  • Correct Hub Assembly for Dexter 8-258 Hub and 13-Inch Wheels
  • With axle 8-258, your bearings are either # L44643 or # L44649. # L44643 bearings have an inner diameter of 1 inch, while bearings # L44649 have an inner diameter of 1.063 inches. You can locate the bearing numbers on the bearings themselves, or you can measure the diameter using the image I've attached. We offer two hub assembly kits with # L44643 bearings. Item # 8-258BTUC1 is the standard hub assembly kit, which includes lug nuts, inner bearings and race, outer bearings and race,...
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  • Recommended Replacements for Dexter 8-257 Trailer Hubs
  • An 8-257 hub is a 5 on 4-1/2 hub for 2,000 pound axles. They fit onto a BTR spindle which uses # L44649 for both the inner and outer bearings which have an inner diameter of 1.063 inches. If any of this doesn't match what you have let me know. If you just need the idler hubs and not the hub and drum assemblies we have # AKIHUB-545-2-LFEZ-2K that are for E-Z Lube spindles. Or use # AKIHUB-545-2-LF-2K for standard spindles. If your spindles have a zerk fitting on the end of them then...
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  • Bearings and Seal for a 3,500 lb Dexter Torflex Axle
  • I took a look at the manual, and the outer bearing for a #10 Torflex Dexter axle would be outer bearing # L44649 and outer race # L44610; inner bearing # L68149 and inner race # L68111; and seal # 58846. That would make bearing kit # BK2-100 the correct choice for your axle and includes each of these parts. For a Bearing Buddy you would want to use # BB1980A. I have included links to video reviews of each of these products for you to take a look at.
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  • Replacement Parts for 1970s Camper Frame with Dayton Fayette Axles
  • The Lippert Components Heavy-Duty Replacement Shock - Yellow # LC283280 is 8.625 inches compressed and 13.5 inches fully extended. Your current suspension may extend and retract slightly further but the shocks will be a good replacement based on the actual shock absorbing as long as they will fit your brackets. Unfortunately we don't have any info on your axle or hubs, so to help, I will need to get the bearing numbers printed on the face of your inner and outer bearing of one hub....
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  • Which Bearings, Races, and Seal Fit Dexter Hubs 8-283
  • For the inner bearing you need # LM67048 and race # LM67010. The outer bearing is # L44649 and race # L44610. The seal is # 10-42.
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  • Recommended Disc Brake Conversion For Tandem Axle Boat Trailer With 13 Inch Wheels
  • We don't have a kit for 13 inch wheels, but I can give you all the components you need. For your rotor/hubs, you will need 2 of the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 8" Rotor/Hub - 5 on 4-1/2 - Dacromet - 3,500 lbs # K2HR35D-8. This will require 4 of the # L68149 bearings, 4 of the # L44649 bearings and 2 of the Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" - for 3,500-lb Axles - Qty 2 # RG06-050. Then you will need the tandem brake lines, and I recommend the Kodiak Hydraulic Brake Line...
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