1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
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  4. E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  5. 1.98 Inch O.D.
Grease Cap, 1.99" OD EZ Lube Drive in with Plug - Qty 2

Grease Cap, 1.99" OD EZ Lube Drive in with Plug - Qty 2

Item # RG04-040
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Our Price: $7.01
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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RG04-040 - 1.98 Inch TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Grease cap fits EZ lube trailer hubs with 2" inner diameter. Includes rubber lube plug for EZ Lube axles. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Cap, 1.99" OD EZ Lube Drive in with Plug - Qty 2 part number RG04-040 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG04-040

  • Caps
  • E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  • 1.98 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde

Grease cap fits EZ lube trailer hubs with 2" inner diameter. Includes rubber lube plug for EZ Lube axles.


Features:

  • Grease cap with rubber lube plug for trailer hubs
  • Drive-in installation


Specs:

  • Outer diameter: 1.99"
  • Quantity: 2


Dimensions


DC-200L Grease Cap, 1.99" OD EZ Lube Drive-In - Qty 2

DC-RP Rubber Plug for EZ Lube Grease Cap - Qty 2







Video of Grease Cap, 1.99" OD EZ Lube Drive in with Plug - Qty 2

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Grease Cap, 1.99" OD EZ Lube Drive in with Plug - Qty 2 - RG04-040

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (412 Customer Reviews)

Grease cap fits EZ lube trailer hubs with 2" inner diameter. Includes rubber lube plug for EZ Lube axles.

- RG04-040
by:

Great price and fast shipping 714826



- RG04-040
by:

Exact replacement I needed. Etrailer always takes care of me. Fast delivery. 571484



- RG04-040
by:

Easy to use website, parts shipped & received faster than I expected. Order was 100% complete. Can't wait to install. Thanks for the quick service. Randall 711463



- RG04-040
by:

It is so great that etrailer carries just these rubber caps. Anyone who uses these knows that the caps can wear out with frequent trailer maintenance or just get lost. We use our trailers nearly every day of the week so we are constantly popping these caps off to grease the bearings. Thanks etrailer! 715216



- RG04-040
by:

Delivered ahead of schedule. Website was easy to navigate...quickly found what I was searching for and placed the order. I will order from this company again. 674720



- RG04-040
by:

The price is certainly right for these and they are a nice tight fit, but the square cut lip that enters the hub made them very difficult to start in my hubs. After chucking them in a lathe and chamfering the edge, they started and drove in smoothly. Five stars if they came chamfered. 706112



- RG04-040
by:

I use these caps on my boat trailer which is used only in salt water. Even with thorough rinsing after every use, the zinc plating on cap rusts out and the rubber plug cap gets dry rotted from sun exposure in less than a year. Still works OK if you smear a coat of grease all over the outside of the cap and the rubber plug. 713789



- RG04-040
by:

Old ones occasionally dislodge themselves from your axle. So it’s good to keep a few around to install if you lose yours. The rubber portion allows you to grease Dexter torsion axles without removing the hub and bearings. You can also visually inspect them through this access point. 698845



- RG04-040
by:

Once again I made a purchase without knowing exactly what I needed and customer service gave me advice,which I took, and it fits perfectly. Thanks 59439


Comments
Still working just fine. I bought some extras and theyre still in the bag.
Dave U - 05/15/2014

4198

- RG04-040
by:

A perfect replacement for the battered and worn caps on my EZ Lube axles. Order dust cap driver p/n 290-991 for easy installation and removal during service. 115903


Comments
Thanks for taking the time to follow up with me. Ive only put a few hundred miles of use on the trailer but everything is working great. Ive actually recommended etrailer to my father, a friend of mine and anyone at work who would listen made easier by the fact that I had everything I ordered shipped to my job instead of home. Barring an emergency situation that requires an immediate solution you have my business in the future.
WT H - 02/20/2015

9631

- RG04-040
by:

Been using these bearing caps on my boat trailer for about six years now. Change them out every year when I repack my wheel bearings. Very good product and a good price from etrailer 571505



- RG04-040
by:

Good quality for a replacement grease cap. I don't reuse grease caps because they distort from the removal and installation process. Before you install the cap put Purmatex Ultra Black gasket maker (maximum oil resistance) on the lip and you'll have a good leak free seal. 122158


Comments
Works as designed and no leaks.
Mark D - 03/25/2015

10328

- RG04-040
by:

I was more than satisfied with my first experience with etrailer. The product was reasonably priced and when received was of excellent quality. The shipping of my product was received well within the expected time. The part was just what I needed for my Harley Trailer! I will certainly recommend etrailer to anyone needing their products and will also order from them the next time I need any products they carry! 123781



- RG04-040
by:

What I wanted at a fair price. Shipping on this item was reasonable, so I'm a happy customer. I've done a number of transactions with this vendor, and for the most part have been completely satisfied. My only problem is, because I live in Alaska, shipping for any larger items is price prohibitive. 150902


Comments
They are working out just fine. They provide easy access to lube the bearings, but keep the hub clean and dry.
Don B - 09/13/2015

14920

- RG04-040
by:

Grease Cap fit perfect and the rubber plug fits nice and tight. No water or dirt is getting inside. I highly recommend you purchase the Dust Cap Driver Tool as I did. They fit tight and the tool puts equal pressure all the way around. Your going to flatten the edge out if you don't use this tool for sure. Do it right the first time. 106148



- RG04-040
by:

Was super fast shipping. Great prices. Very easy to deal with. Couldn't be happier. Thanks again for being a great company. You are my go to online store now. 575260



- RG04-040
by:

Item(s) fit the EZ Lube axles on my trailer perfectly. I recommend purchasing Dust Cap Driver tool #290-991 for a damage free installation of this dust cap. 738821



- RG04-040
by:

Easy to install. Fit well. No problems 729521



- RG04-040
by:

I bought my 12X6 enclosed trailer new back in 2006 and this product was installed on the wheels. In 2018, the wheel bearings failed on one wheel so I replaced the bearings on both wheels at the same time. I also replaced the bearing caps with the same type because I felt that they lasted a long time and must be a quality product. They have been installed a year now and continue to do their job well. I am very happy with this etrailer product. 729503



- RG04-040
by:

Replaced seals & grease caps on my boat trailer. They fit like the original parts. 729478



- RG04-040
by:

Nice tight fit. Love the ease of the easy lube caps 726585



- RG04-040
by:

I purchased new bearings, hubs, brake rotor hubs, brake pads, grease caps with rubber inserts, wheels with tires mounted, center caps and lug nuts. All of it was shipped and received in 4 days with free shipping. I have made many large purchases from etrailer and referred them to many people. They have always been great to work with. The quality is very good and don't have one bad thing to say against them. They are my go to store for my utility trailer, enclosed trailer, camper, boat, and truck. Thanks etrailer!! 722787



- RG04-040
by:

Good fit, replacement for lost cap 721450



- RG04-040
by:

When the rim started wobbling on the axle, it knocked one off. Might as well replace everything. The rubber caps are much easier to remove than the hard plastic ones that came with the originals. We'll see how they work in practice. 719376



- RG04-040
by:

Fast delivery, accurate description and great price! Thanks 716877


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    All of our bearing kits, like the part # BK2-100 that was referenced, only include the inner/outer bearings, grease seal, and cotter pin/washer but I can help you get the other parts that you are needing as well. For 10" x 2-1/4" brakes we have the Redline Hydraulic Brake Shoe/Lining # BP04-120 which comes in a set for 1 wheel. Then for a grease cap if you could let me know what your hub bore measures (to the 3rd decimal like 1.234) I can help you select the correct size cap from...
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  • Replacement EZ Lube Dust Covers on Trailer Axles
    The dusts caps that fit the EZ Lube axles fit different size holes of the brake drum or hub. For example, # RG04-040 will fit EZ Lube axles with a 2 inch inner diameter. I have linked a page that will show all the EZ lube dust caps and the different cap sizes. You will have to have your tech measure the trailer hub to figure out which cap you will need.
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  • Fit of Phoenix USA QuickTrim Trailer Hub Cover # PXQT545BHS with EZ-Lube Grease Cap
    EZ-Lube grease caps like # RG04-040 come in various diameters. This particular grease cap has an outer diameter of 1.986 inches. Larger grease caps are also available, such as part # rg04-120 which is 2.72-inches in diameter. I pulled a sample of the Phoenix USA QuickTrim Trailer Hub Cover # PXQT545BHS that you referenced. I took a measurement of the interior of the cover to see what diameter grease caps would fit inside. The diameter of the interior at its narrowest point (nearest...
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  • Trailer Hub Bearing Kit Recommendation for 1990 Coleman Pop Up Camper L44649
    Since your hubs have inner and outer bearing numbers L44649 the correct bearing kit you would need is the part # BK1-150. I attached a trailer bearing install video for you to check out as well. For the standard spindle you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-020. If you have a E-Z Lube spindle, with a grease fitting in the end of the spindle, you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-040.
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  • What Size Grease Seal And Dust Cap is Needed on a 3,500 Lbs. Axle With L44649 Outer Bearing
    The size seal you will need will depend on the part number of your inner bearing. If the outer bearing part number is L44649 and the inner bearing part number is also L44649, then you will use a TruRyde Seals, # RG06-020. If the outer bearing part number is L44649 and the inner bearing part number is L68149, then it will be TruRyde Seals, # RG06-050. The size grease cap you will need is 1.986 inches. For the standard spindle you would use the TruRyde Grease Caps, # RG04-020....
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  • Grease Cap Recommendation to Replace AL KO Part Number 363277
    I did some digging and based on the part number you referenced you need grease caps that have an outer diameter of 1.986 inches. Because of that you would want the part # RG04-040.
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  • Wheel Bearings, Seals and Grease Caps for Dexter 10 Inch Trailer Hub/Drum with 8-247 Casting Number
    The 8-247 casting number refers to a Dexter 10 inch hub/drum with a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern. The hub/drum uses a # L68149 inner and a # L44649 outer bearing and 10-19 grease seals, part # RG06-050, sold in pairs. For grease caps, use # RG04-020 sold in pairs. If your trailer has EZ lube spindles, you'd use # RG04-040 which feature removable plugs so you can easily access the grease zerks in the end of the spindles. We don't offer a synthetic grease. What we recommend and what...
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  • What Size Grease Cap Hole Does Grease Cap Plug for E-Z Lube Grease Caps, # RG04-010 Fit
    The Grease Cap Plug for E-Z Lube Grease Caps, # RG04-010, is designed to fit Dexter E-Z Lube grease caps on the Dexter E-Z Lube axles like # RG04-040, and will otherwise fit a 1-1/4 inch opening on a grease cap. The Rubber Lube Plug - Fits 1.18 Inch Lubed Dust Cap - Qty 1, # DC-RP, fits a 1.18 inch dust cap hole and may be closer to what you need. To get the most accurate measurement of the hole in your grease cap, I recommend using dial calipers. With the most accurate measurement...
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  • How to Pick the Correct Brake Assemblies and Bearings for 2006 Forest River Grand Surveyor Trailer
    If you have 10 inch brake assemblies currently the # 23-26 and # 23-27 would be the correct assemblies to get. You might measure the bolt assembly that the brake assemblies mount to. The # 23-26 and # 23-27 has bolts holes that are 2-7/8 inches apart on center. Since you are going to have to remove your hub and bearings anyway I would recommend you just remove them now to verify the bearing numbers that you would need, the numbers of the bearings will be stamped on the bearings. If you...
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  • Bearing Buddy and Standard Grease Caps to Fit 1.98-Inch Hub Bore
    All Bearing Buddy bearing protectors have the same depth, just different diameters. Also, some are threaded to fit threaded hubs while others are not. If your spindles have a grease zerk fitting on the end you will not need to use a Bearing Buddy; that grease zerk means you have EZ-Lube spindles which provide an alternate way to maintain your hubs grease level. For such spindles use part # RG04-040 If it is the actual castle nut that hits the inside surface of the Bearing Buddy then...
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  • How Does The EZ Lube Spindle # R20384EZ Work On A Boat Trailer
    On the EZ Lube Spindle # R20384EZ you do not need a grease fitting for the hole on the inside end of the spindle. This is an EZ lube spindle which is designed to allow you to put grease onto the bearings by using the zerk fitting on the threaded end of the spindle. You will not want to block the hole that is on the inside end of the spindle. When the hub is installed on the EZ lube spindle it will form a cavity around the wheel bearings and when you pump grease into the spindle through...
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  • Replacement Grease Cap Plugs, Bearings and Brakes for 2005 Big Tex 14GN Trailer
    For a replacement rubber plug for your trailer grease caps you can use part # DC-RP from TruRyde. This fits a 1.18-inch hole in a grease cap like # RG04-040. We do offer replacement bearings, bearing kits and brake components as well. Complete bearing kits for 7K axles can be seen on the link provided. Both use inner bearing 25580 and outer bearing 14125A. Kit # BK3-210 includes a seal with an I.D. of 2.125-inches and kit # BK3-200 uses a seal with an I.D. of 2.250-inches. Individual...
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  • Will 1.986 Inch OD EZ Lube Dust Caps Work To Replace 1.98 OD Dust Caps
    The EZ Lube Drive in Grease Cap with Plug # RG04-040 will work as replacements for your existing grease caps that have a 1.98 inch outer diameter.
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  • Can Titan 10" Hub and Rotor # T4841100182 be Used on EZ Lube Spindles
    The Titan 10" Hub and Rotor # T4841100182 that you referenced can be used with EZ lube spindles. In order to do that you'd need to use the correct grease caps and you'd be set. For that all you need is the part # RG04-040 which has the removable center sections to make it EZ lube spindle compatible.
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  • How to Determine Which Grease Cap and Center Cap will Fit My Trailer
    To determine if the grease cap # RG04-040 will fit on your trailer you will need to measure the inner diameter of your trailer hub's pilot hole. This will need to be measured as accurately as possible so it's best to use a digital caliper like # PTW80157. The # RG04-040 will fit a pilot hole that is just slightly smaller than 1.99 inches. The hub's pilot hole needs to be a bit smaller than the cap so that the cap fits snug. If that cap is not a fit, I've linked our selection of grease...
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  • Replacement Rubber Caps For Dexter E-Z Lube Hubs
    The replacement rubber caps for EZ Lube hubs are # RG04-010. These are the lube plugs for 1.18 inch dust cap holes in those EZ Lube Grease Caps. These are the equivalent of the 85-1. If you need a different size dust cap, we only have what comes with the complete grease cap. We have Grease Cap, 1.99" OD EZ Lube Drive in with Plug - Qty 2 # RG04-040, 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1 # DC250L-DCRP.
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  • Replacement Grease Cap for a 2-48 Dexter Hub
    The correct replacement grease cap for a Trailer Hub Assembly # 84545BX would be the Grease Cap, 1.986" OD EZ Lube Drive in with Plug # RG04-040.
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Grease Caps for EZ Lube Spindle Grease Cap
    You will want to use a dial caliper or micrometer to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer to determine what size cap would be needed. Check out the picture I attached that shows this measurement being taken on a hub. I attached a link to all the grease caps we offer, once you know what size you need check out the link I attached to see all the sizes we offer that have the EZ lube style cap that allows for easy application of grease to EZ lube spindles.
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  • Trailer Grease Caps with Zerk Grease Fitting
    Grease Cap set # RG04-040 are regular grease caps that have a rubber plug on the end to access a grease zerk fitting on the spindle (end of the axle). They install the same as regular grease caps. It sounds like you are looking for bearing protectors such as # BB1980A which are for regular spindles. I have linked a video review for you.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Robert G
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
John H
Expert Research:
Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Installed by:
Cole B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W

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