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Bearing Kit, 14125A/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal

Bearing Kit, 14125A/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal

Item # BK3-210
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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etrailer Bearings - BK3-210
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, 14125A/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal part number BK3-210 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK3-210

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 14125A and 25580
  • Race 25520 and 14276


Features:

Kit Includes:

  • One Inner Bearing and Race
  • One Outer Bearing and Race
  • Grease Seal
  • Cotter Pin
  • EZ Lube spindle washer


Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
14125A
25580
GS-2125DL
2.125"


BK3-210 Bearing Kit, 14125A/25580 Bearings, 10-10 GS-2125DL Seal





Video of Bearing Kit, 14125A/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, 14125A/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal - BK3-210

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (66 Customer Reviews)


- BK3-210
by:

Super fast delivery ,perfect fit ,will order from e-trailer again . 94268


Comments
Last summer while hauling hay one of my outer bearings went out. pulled the other five sets off they all looked fine. replaced with one of the other sets I purchased from you all is well. I ordered 10 sets from you for 2 trailers. will need a set for the second trailer service . You will hear from me soon . Thanks
Ron C - 02/07/2015

9346

- BK3-210
by:

Very good transaction all round. The description given in their ad matched our faint numbers perfectly. Every bearings and accessory items in the kit fit our 7,000 lb. axles. Thanks to a very much appreciated upgrade; delivery was almost instantaneous. Communication was more than outstanding. All we can be critical of would be not being able to pay with PayPal. 541293


Comments
Installed about a year and working great. We delivered many loads over the year and they just keep rolling along.
J. D - 07/13/2019

57782

- BK3-210
by:

Pre packaged kits and fast shipping. 206617


Comments
1 year strong on the new etrailer bearings. No problems, no worries.
Justin - 06/22/2016

18878

- BK3-210
by:

Once we found the correct seal everything went well. Fast delivery and correct parts. I don't understand what the washer with the tab on it is? I would order from you again and would also recommend you to others. 102497


Comments
It is a tang washer for EZ-Lube spindles. It is used in place of the cotter pin to keep the castle nut from backing off.
-- Patrick B - 10/07/2013

2155
Comments
The washer with the tab is one option for locking the castle nut. Once the nut is tight, you would pry up the tab and flatten it against one flat of the nut.
-- comment by: FireBear - 10/19/2015

15585

- BK3-210
by:

898864



- BK3-210
by:

Awesome customer support. I received my package and it had been torn in the sorting/mail process and all the contents were lost. I reached out to the company about not receiving my bearing kit, just an empty envelope. They immediately shipped a new kit and made sure to beef up the package. I received the replacement bearing kit quickly and it was exactly what I needed. 895216



- BK3-210
by:

Great item. Tremendous support. If you have any questions these folks can help you out. 875533



- BK3-210
by: 08/11/2020

Bearings and seals working just fine excellent price 859972



- BK3-210
by:

I buy all of my trailer needs from etrailer ! They are easy to deal with and ship fast. I have never had a problem with any product. Great company to buy from!!! 852905



- BK3-210
by:

All parts working great great replaceme nt 825810



- BK3-210
by:

Super fast shipping was here the next day with 4 day shipping bought. Was what the item described 824933



- BK3-210
by:

Item was shipped as ordered, was exactly like described. I just needed some spare bearings just to have in RV for emergency on road repair. Nothing else i can ask for. Thanks etrailor. 805032



- BK3-210
by:

Very prompt shipping and receipt. I will not install now, but only have available when I need these. Thanks. 804740



- BK3-210
by:

Great products great shipping time. Great company plan o getting all of my trailer parts here exclusively 802278



- BK3-210
by:

The kit arrived quickly and in good condition. All of the parts fit perfectly and I was able to assemble my hub in less time than I had planned for. 796267



- BK3-210
by:

The order was delivered quickly. The part is of excellent quality. 776490



- BK3-210
by:

Came early what I ordered good job! 762133



- BK3-210
by:

Good price 746084



- BK3-210
by:

Product was delivered and was as ordered. I did not use it yet and am glad to keep it on hand for when needed. Ordering was easy and site was easy to navigate. A minor disappointment was that I thought the delivery took several days longer than I had anticipated. I guess we are getting spoiled by other online retailer's 2-day free delivery. Delay was not really an issue and only a minor annoyance. I like ordering from etrailer and will definitely order from them again. 740033



- BK3-210
by:

Bearings look good. Good price and fast delivery. Will carry them as spares. 734086



- BK3-210
by:

Received all that I ordered and installed without issues. However I did have to get a race installer for the inside bearing race as the kit purchased was not for that size. I wish someone from etrailer would have called to double check if those were the correct ones I needed. 727433



- BK3-210
by:

they worked perfect 717247



- BK3-210
by:

The only reason I gave it three stars is because the kit didn't come packaged. All of the parts were loose in an envelope, which would not be a problem but I purchased these as a spare to have in an emergency. I had to put them in a freezer bag to keep them stored and clean. 707740



- BK3-210
by:

Still working great for us, thank you! 706926



- BK3-210
by:

Great company and service 693774


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Which Bearing Kit Fits Dexter 7,000 lb Axle
    Yes, the bearing kit part # BK3-210 does fit a good portion of the 7,000 lb Dexter axles out there, but some of the 7k Dexter axles require a slightly larger grease seal which instead requires the kit part # BK3-200. What you'll want to do is measure the spindle you have where the grease seal rides for it's outer diameter. If it's 2.125 inch you need the part # BK3-210. If instead it's 2.25 inch you'd need the part # BK3-200.
    view full answer...
  • Correct Bearings and Grease Seal for Lippert 7,000 lb Axle
    The bearing kit you need for your Lippert 7,000 lb axles is Bearing Kit # BK3-210. This kit contains the correct bearings, # 25580 and # 14125A as well as the matching races and grease seal # GS-2125DL.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit for Trailer that Has 3,500 lb Axles
    Since you have 3,500 lb axles you'd want a bearing kit for this axle capacity and not a 7k axle as the bearings and seals are totally different. For a 3,500 lb axle you'd want the part # BK2-100 instead. This comes with the correct size seal as well.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit for Dexter 7k Axle on Fifth Wheel
    Since you have a Dexter 7k axle the correct bearing kit is the part # BK3-210 that you referenced.
    view full answer...
  • Bearings for Lippert 8,000 lb Axle
    The inner bearing you need for a Lippert 8,000 lb axle is the part # 25580 and the outer bearing # 02475 and then for a grease seal you'd need the part # RG06-070. We don't have a kit that has these together.
    view full answer...
  • What Does Trailer Wheel with Grease Splattered Around Perimeter of Wheel Mean
    The grease cap is definitely leaking out of the rubber plug on top of it. It's possible the bearings are bad now so it's a good idea to pull the hub off and just inspect everything and at the very least repack the bearings. At the very least you'll have to replace your grease cap which I can help you with but will need you to remove the cap you have and measure the hub bore diameter where it fits. You'll want to use a digital caliper like the part # PTW80157 to get an exact diameter....
    view full answer...
  • Can EZ Lube Hub be Replaced with Dexter Nev-R-Lube Hub without Replacing Axle
    Dexter Nev-R-Lube hubs such as the part # 8-388-80UC3 are designed to fit Dexter Nev-R-Lube Axles. These hubs use a special cartridge style bearing that is only compatible with the spindles on a Nev-R-Lube Axle. With this in mind you would not be able to change from an EZ Lube hub to a Nev-R-Lube model without replacing the entire axle. If you are needing to replace the hubs on your trailer I will be happy to recommend a hub and drum assembly that will work well. Please just let me know...
    view full answer...
  • Bearings and Brake Assembly Recommendation for Dexter P12 Axle
    There are two different bearing kits that could work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need the part # BK3-210. If you need a 2-1/4 inch seal you would need the part # BK3-200. For a brake assembly kit for both sides of the axle you would want the part # AKEBRK-6 which is a 12 inch electric brake kit.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 7k Axle
    In order to choose the correct replacement bearing kit of your 7,000 lb axle, you will need to know both the inner and outer bearing numbers, as well as the inner diameter of the grease seal, which you can find using a digital caliper. The most common bearings on 7k axles are inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 14125A. If those are your bearing numbers and the inner diameter of your grease seal measures 2.125 inches, you would want bearing kit # BK3-210, which includes the bearings,...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seal for Lippert 7,000 Pound Axle
    The correct bearing kit for your 7,000 pound Lippert axle is # BK3-210.
    view full answer...
  • Does Dexter Nev-R-Lube Bearing Installation Require Using A Press
    The 42MM Nev-R-Lube bearing # 31-73-3 is designed to fit Dexter Nev-R-lube axles that have a hub with a 6-lug, 5-1/2 bolt circle. I called my contact at Dexter and they told me you do not have to press the bearing in place when installing. You can use a dowel to tap it into place so that you do not damage the bearing when installing. With this bearing, everything is there and you do not have to worry about seals, races or repacking the bearings. This bearing is designed to give...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing Kit Recommendation for 2012 Redwood Fifth Wheel with 7k Axle
    We have the bearings and seal you mentioned but we do not carry the Timken brand at this time. We do have a kit that has all of the bearings you mentioned together. For that you would want the part # BK3-200. The kit you referenced # BK3-210 uses the wrong seal. It would be too small.
    view full answer...
  • Spindle D Washer for 7k Trailer Axle Hub
    For a d-washer to use on your spindle you'd want the part # 5-57.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Bearing Kit For 7K Lippert Axles On Grand Design Reflection 367bhs
    For your Lippert 7k axle you would want the part # BK3-200 if the seal inner diameter needed is 2.25 inches or part # BK3-210 for inner diameter of 2.125 inches. You can use a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to confirm size, or check the part number listed on the seal itself if it is legible. I've attached an article to help with this.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings and Seals For Dexter P-12 Axle Serial Number D4231278
    Your Dexter P-12 SLR axle Serial Number D4231278 is an older 7K torsion axle made for the FeatherLite trailer company. The inner bearing is part # 25580; the outer bearing is part # 14125A; and the grease seal is a 10-36, part # RG06-070. I confirmed all of the above with my contact at Dexter axle. You can order these items individually or as a bearing//seal kit # BK3-200 which also includes races.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for a Dexter SLR Axle
    There are two different bearing kits that could work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need the part # BK3-210. If you need a 2-1/4 inch seal you would need the part # BK3-200. You will need to remove the hub and measure the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides to see which kit you would need.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine the Correct Replacement Bearings for an EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    EZ Loader makes both custom and "universal" trailers so in order to determine which bearings are on a given trailer you can either pull a hub and get the inner and outer bearing numbers off of the sides of the bearings or measure the spindle with digital calipers such as # PTW80157. I have included a video and a picture that will help.
    view full answer...
  • Adding Brakes to 1999 Jayco Heritage Glacier with Dexter 2,500 lb Axles
    A Dexter 2,500 lb axle uses hubs that have inner and outer bearings of L44649 like the part # 8-257-5UC3 which has a 5 lug bolt pattern or the # 8-173-16UC3-EZ which has a 4 lug bolt pattern. These both come with bearings and seals as well. For brake assemblies you'd want the part # 23-47 for the left hand side and # 23-48 for the right hand side and you'd be set. I attached a help article link on adding electric brakes to a trailer for you to check out as well that I think you'll find...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 7,000 lb Dexter Axles
    For your Dexter 7K axles, you will want the Bearing Kit, 14125A/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal # BK3-200 for each hub if you have the standard spindle. If you have the EZ Lube spindle with the grease zerk then you will want # BK3-210 to include the EZ Lube washer. For the grease, I recommend the LubriMatic LMX Industrial Strength Grease - 14 oz. Cartridge # L11390. If you want to pack them easily, I recommend using the Bearing Packer - Plastic # PTW1218. I've also attached an article...
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  • How to Determine Proper Grease Seal and Bearings for Fifth Wheel Trailer Hub
    For your 2016 Arctic Fox 27-5L fifth wheel trailer with a GVWR of 13,400 lbs I assume you have 7,000 lb axles and also that by axle seals you are talking about bearings and a grease seal. With 7,000 lb axles it is likely you will need Bearing Kit # BK3-200 or # BK3-210 but there is only one way to know this for sure. What you'll need to do is take apart your hub assembly and looking at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped...
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  • Bearings and Races for 7,000 Pound Trailer Axle
    The most common bearings and seals for a 7,000 pound axle are # 25580 inner bearing, # 14125A outer bearing, # 25520 inner race and # 14276 outer race. The grease seal can vary, and will usually either be the # GS-2250DL, which has a 2.250 inch inner diameter and 3.376 outer diameter, or # GS2125DL with a 2.125 inch inner diameter and 3.376 inch outer diameter. We do also offer complete bearing kits for this axle. For the GS-2250DL grease seal, you can use the Kit # BK3-200. For the...
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  • How to Pick Out Bearings for a Dexter P-21 SLR Axle
    We checked with Dexter and P-21 just indicates where the axle was made. With the serial number we could track down more info on your axle. However, in the mean time you could pretty easily get the bearing numbers off of your current bearings and then check out the link I attached to see what each bearing kit contains to see which would work. There are two different bearing kits that would MOST LIKELY work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Dexter 7k Axle
    For 7k Dexter axle bearings you have two options depending on the inner diameter of the seal you need. You would need part # BK3-200 for if your seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches. Or part # BK3-210 for if your seal inner diameter is 2.125 inches.
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  • Replacement Bearings for a Kaufman Tilt Trailer with 7,000 lb Axles
    We have two bearing kits that have the same bearing numbers you need. There is part # BK3-200 that uses the seal part 10-36 which has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and then we have the part # BK3-210 that uses a seal with an inner diameter of 2.125 inches. The grease seal part # GS-2250DL that you referenced that you think you need has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. This matches what the bearing kit part # BK3-200 has so that would be what...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for Lippert 6k and 7k Axles
    For a Lippert 6k axle you have two options. The part # BK3-100 and the part # BK3-110. The difference would be the size of the inner diameter of the grease seal. The part # BK3-100 comes with seal that has inner diameter of 2.25 inches and the part # BK3-110 comes with seal that is 2.125 inches. For a 7k axle by Lippert you would want the part # BK3-200 if the seal diameter needed is 2.25 inches or part # BK3-210 for inner diameter of 2.125 inches.
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  • Recommended Hub/Drum Assembly with 8-on-170mm Wheel Bolt Pattern for Off-Road Trailer
    The closest bolt pattern we would offer to the 8 lug on 170mm bolt pattern you mentioned would be an 8 lug on 6-1/2 bolt pattern. 6-1/2 inches is 6.692 inches, which is close, but not exact. The Timbren Axle Less suspension system you mentioned, part # ASR5200S04 is compatible with an 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern hub like the Titan # T1870100CB042. You'd also need one bearing kit per wheel, part # BK3-210 and 8 lug nuts, part # CE11051. For a brake assembly, I really like Nev-R-Adjust...
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  • Dexter 7000 lb Axle Bearing Kit Recommendation
    For 7k Dexter axle bearings you have two options depending on the inner diameter of the seal you need. You would need part # BK3-200 for if your seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches. Or part # BK3-210 for if your seal inner diameter is 2.125 inches. I wish these were USA made bearing kits, but at this time none are available to us.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for a 5,200 Pound EZ Lube Trailer Axle
    On your EZ Lube 5,200 pound trailer axle the inner bearing is going to be # 25580. The outer bearing is likely going to be # 14125A. With these bearings you could have one of two seal possibilities. Bearing kit # BK3-200 comes the bearings above and with a seal that has a 2-1/4 inch inner diameter. The other option is bearing kit # BK3-210. It also has the above bearings but the seal in it is 2-1/8 inches inner diameter. You can determine which one you will need by measuring either...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit and 8 Lug Hub and Drum for a Dexter Axle P12 SLR
    There are two different bearing kits that could work for you. If you need a seal with a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter you would need the part # BK3-210. If you need a 2-1/4 inch seal you would need the part # BK3-200.
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  • What is the Correct Bearing Kit for a Dexter Hub and Drum Assembly 8-219
    There are a few different types of 8-219 hubs, some that take a 2-1/4 inch inner diameter seal and some that take a 2-1/8 inch inner diameter. The bearing kit # BK3-200 you referenced will work with the trailer hub and drum assembly 8-219 as long as the seal diameter is 2-1/4 inches. Check the part numbers on your bearings so you can match them to the correct kit. If your spindle diameter measures 2-1/8 inches where the seal rides using a digital caliper, the bearing kit you need...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Installed by:
Jeff D
Updated by:
Adele M
Updated by:
Alexander C
Video Edited:
Chris R

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