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Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings
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Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings

Part Number: L44610
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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L44610 - Bearing L44643,Bearing L44649 etrailer Races
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L44643 and L44649 bearings. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings part number L44610 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L44610

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 2000 lbs Axle
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 1.980 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing L44643
  • Bearing L44649
  • etrailer
  • Race L44610

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L44643 and L44649 bearings. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 1.980"
  • Matching bearings (sold separately): L44643, L44649


L44610 Replacement Trailer Hub Race





Video of Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Feature Review Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for L44643 and L44649 Bearings - L44610

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (246 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L44643 and L44649 bearings. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

by:

I used these to replace the pitted races on my 20+ year old EZ Loader boat trailer. Apparently ignoring the wheel bearings for 20+ years isn't great for them. The old races came out relatively easily with a drift punch and a hammer. These new races appeared to be high quality, and went in easily with a race driver from a well known supplier of cheap tools.



by:

All of the bearing components are installed and still running. I expect a very long life if I remember to keep them greased.



by:

The exact part on my trailer!



by:

I think the part was of the best quality , I have no ill fellings about the product.



by:

Perfect fit, no problems, & fast delive ry



by:

Just received and installed the bearings onmy dads camp trailer. Everything shipped was the proper product and the installation was easy. This is the second set of bearings I have purchased from etrailer and both sets have been a great buy with great customer service and prompt shipment. Thank you for your great service, you will be hearing from me again.
Daryl O.

Daryl O. profile picture

Daryl O.

7/20/2015

Everything is good and you will hear from me when anyone in my family needs bearings.Thanks again for your great service.



by:

I rebuilt my snowmobile trailer axle and put on new tires and rims . All was purchased thru etrailer ,Everything was just as I expected.
I will purchase again next time I need something.
Thank You etrailer
AL

Albert V. profile picture

Albert V.

8/21/2017

Trailer has over 1000 miles on it since being rebuilt with no problems. I would purchase from etrailer again.



by:

Fit great. Customer service was excellent. The lady I spoke with on phone really knew about trailer s an bearings. She is the reason I ordered an the reason I will order in future. She took her time listened to my trailer problem gave advice An helped me. My trailer is older an bearings weren't what should be on it. But she was right an parts fit great an l have put 2000 miles some new bearings.

Shane C. profile picture

Shane C.

7/2/2021

Great. Just ordered a trailer jack this week. Great website detail.



by:

Excellent bearings, races, buddies, and mounted tires on rims. Makes my rebuild of a 1974 trailer new again. Easy website, fast delivery, better price than anywhere including wallyworld. Great.

Tom G. profile picture

Tom G.

10/18/2017

Everything is great.



by:

We run a large facility with tons of machines. We use lots of bearings and races. The quality of the items from etrailer has reduced our replacement labor and time saving. The price of parts and the quality of the parts at etrailer is the best.

Thank you, guys, for all you do.



by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer.com, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer.com got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!!



by:

Bearings and seals in stock, delivered fast and exactly what I needed. Thank You for your great customer service..... ready to transport my boat 1000 miles to Florida....Jim

Jim profile picture

Jim

1/5/2015

everything is fine and working the way it should, Happy New Year



by:

Want to help out the next customer looking for the bearing, cups, and seals for 2000-01 tracker trailstar trailer. 1st you have to dismantle one of the hubs and see what trailstar decided to put in there the day they built it. You will find the rear cups and seals are considered "Special for some reason". Not a problem for etrailer, they have them in stock and the quality is excellent and are exact replacements. The parts I had to order were cup L68110, cup L44610, seal 168233, bearing L68149 and bearing L44649. Oh yeah, customer service should get a 10 star review. I had an issue with shipping co. because of new driver in my area. Etrailer got all up in their business for me and I didn't have to do anything. Customer service also called me the next day to see if everything was delivered and satisfactory. We need more companys like etrailer.com . Excellent!!



by:

Fast delivery, works as advertised.....



by:

All the parts I ordered were correct and of good quality. The customer service was outstanding!! I spent probably 30 minutes on the phone with Danielle as we tried to figure out exactly what axle was on my trailer ( wasn’t what it was supposed to be ). The parts showed up in a pretty reasonable amount of time considering the pandemic was in full swing. The prices also were very reasonable, as she searched her inventory for the best price, found a package deal for me with more than I was looking for at less cost than buying the parts individually. I will use them again for sure and definitely recommend them to anyone needing trailer parts.



by:

A perfect fit for my single axle boat trailer and I replaced all 4. New bearings, seals, fresh grease and Stainless Steel Bearing buddy's completed the job.
Now I do not have to worry about bearing failures.



by:

Customer support for finding replacement bearing, races and grease seals for a 1973 Apache popup trailer were spot on. All items fit perfectly, delivery was quick and customer support excellent. Thanks to all!

Bearing LM11949
Race LM11910
Bearing L44649
Race L44610
Grease Seal - 10-9



by:

I replaced all the bearings races seals and brakes on a small travel trailer. Bill P.at etrailer took my order and three days later I had everything in my hands. Great job Bill ! All the parts were exact replacements and the install went very smooth. There is video help on their website to show how to make the install easier. I have been dealing with etrailer for several years and have never had a bad experience. I was completely blown away by the pre assembled brakes . Backing plate, shoes, actuators, self adjusters and wiring all ready to bolt on. How much easier can it be? With the best prices, fast shipping and great help on line etrailer is the way to go.



by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. Etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos.



by:

My trailer is so old the bearing numbers were obliterated by corrosion. However, the etrailer site had enough information clearly laid out that I could figure out which part number I needed by taking measurements from the old parts.

All parts arrived on time in perfect shape. Just watching the videos on bearing removal/resinstallation now, will put at least one wheel back together tomorrow.



by:

Excellent service. Quick delivery.



by:

I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time.



by:

quality bearings at a more than affordable price



by:

What a great company. I received this bearing race along with a number of other parts needed for the trailer repair. Terrific web site, easy to navigate and search for the correct parts. Videos on nearly every repair and great customer service if you need live advice. This is my third order this year and each was handled in an outstanding manner. I should mention that I found pricing to be very reasonable.
Keep up the great work!



by:

Ordered bearings and races for both hubs on my bass boat. Quality seemed better than local auto parts bearings. Also purchased other items on this order and was very pleased with products and customer service I received from etrailer. Informative, fast shipping, and courteous company to work with. Top notch!!


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    The Timken Bearing Kits # TMK54ZR and # TMK34ZR both come with the Timken # L44643 bearings, # L44610 race, 204507 seal and cotter pin. The only difference is that the # TMK34ZR comes with a grease cap, while the # TMK54ZR does not. Other than that, they are identical.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit For a Malone LowMax Trailer MPG595
    Your Malone LowMax Trailer MPG595 will use a hub like our etrailer Hub # AKIHUB-545-2-2K. This will use the Bearing Kit # BK1-150 which contains the Bearings # L44649, Races # L44610, Grease Seal # 10-9, a grease cap, cotter pin and d-washer. You can add the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB1980A-SS which will allow you to easily fill the hubs with grease.
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  • How To Determine Which Hub Is Compatible With 10" Brake Assembly
    The Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Self-Adjusting - 10" - Left and Right Hand Assemblies - 3,500 lbs part # AKEBRK-35-SA does not have specific bearings or seals that match up with it. The bearings, races and seal are determined by the hub. Since the electric brake assembly is 10" you will need a 10" hub to use with the brake assembly. You will also need a hub that matches the bolt pattern of your wheel. For example the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly part # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K is 10" hub with...
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  • Dimensions Of The TruRyde Bearing And Races Kit # BK1-150
    On the TruRyde Bearing Kit, part # BK1-150, the bearing race would be the TruRyde Race, part # L44610, which has an outside diameter of 1.980 inches. The bearings are the TruRyde Bearing, part # L44649, which has an inside diameter of 1.063 inches, which is about 1-1/16 (1.062) inches. The bearing seal is the TruRyde Grease Seal, part # RG06-020, which has an inside diameter of 1.5 inches and an outside diameter of 1.987 inches.
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  • Replacement Interior Wear Components For Dexter 8-248 Idler Hub
    Your Dexter 8-248 Hub # 845475UC1 uses the following interior parts. Inner Bearing # L68149 Inner Race # L68111 Outer Bearing # L44649 Outer Race # L44610 Grease Seal # 58846 Grease # L11390 Depending of if you have a standard spindle or E-Z lube spindle there are different grease caps available. Grease Cap # F001518 standard spindle Bearing Buddy # BB1980A upgrade to standard spindle Grease Cap # DC200L-DCRP for E-Z lube spindle And finally there are different nut retainer based...
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  • Parts Needed To Convert Triple Axle Boat Trailer With 3,500LB Axles From Grease to Oil Lube
    First you are going to want to confirm the bearings, grease seal and cap used on your axles. Some older and boat specific 3,500lb axles use different size seals and caps. The Kodiak XL ProLube Kit # XLPROLUBE1980KIT you found fits the standard 3,500lb axle sizes. The grease cap fits a 1.98" hub bore and the included seal fits a 1.72" spindle landing for the seal. If this matches what you have you will need 3 of these kits and I recommend getting 6 of each Inner Bearings # L68149, Inner...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Components For Hub On Lippert 4,400LB Trailer Axles
    Yes, a Lippert 4,400LB torsion axle will use the same Bearing Kit # BK2-100 as their standard 4,400lb axle. This kit includes the following components if you only need to replace some of the components and not everything. Outer bearing # L44649 Inner bearing # L68149 Inner cup # L68111 Outer cup # L44610 Grease seal # 58846 Cotter Pin # 165649 Tang Washer # 5-101 We do have the 7-Piece Installation Set # PTW83020 and Seal Puller # PTW1219 which will aid in the installation and removal...
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  • Replacement Race to Go with a L44649 Bearing
    Sounds like you are talking about the races of your hub, the reason your local store doesn't want to sell you them is because they are pretty difficult to install without damaging the hub. You would want to have them professionally installed. The correct race for the L44649 bearing is the part # L44610. This has an outer diameter of 1.980.
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  • Recommended Trailer Hub And Drum For A Snowmobile Trailer
    When it comes replacing trailer hub and drums with the axle being 1 inch The Easy Grease Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2K Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 - Galvanized # AKIHUB-545-2-G-EZ-1K will work. The outer bearing you provided # L44643 matches with this system. The # L44610 is actually an inner race for the inner bearing # L44643. This galvanized finished hub offer excellent corrosion resistance, making it ideal for your snowmobile trailer. All bearings, races, and grease seal are included. This...
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  • Will The Hubs # TA88545-2 Fit the BTR E-Z Lube Spindles # TRU27FR?
    Yes, the 2 Trailer Idler Hub Assemblies # TA88545-2 will fit on 2 of the BTR E-Z Lube Spindles # TRU27FR. The hubs include the correct Bearings # L44649, Races # L44610, Seals # RG06-020 and Grease Caps # RG04-040 for the spindle.
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  • Replacement Hub And Rotor Assembly For A 2008 Shorelandr Boat Trailer
    After doing some research it seems that your 2008 Shoreland'r boat trailer has a 3,500 pound weight capacity so The Dexter 10 inch Hub-and-Rotor Assembly # K08-435-05 would work for you. Your axle should have an axle sticker or plate on the axle that will inform of you the weight capacity. The bearings are sold separately so you will have to get The Inner Bearing # L68149 and The Outer Bearing # L44649. If your axle does not have an axle sticker or plate located on it if you pull off...
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  • Where to Install Single Disc Brake Kit on Tandem Axle Trailer?
    Normally when installing a single set of disc brakes like the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit for Single Axles # K2R35D on a tandem axle trailer, you'll want to install the new brake kit on the rear axle. Placing the brakes on the rear axle is normally the standard since the rear axle has greater traction than the front axle-consider that the front axle hits bumps first. Also, if you decide to add brakes to the front axle in the future you'll already have the brake lines in place, so you won't have...
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  • Replacement Hub For Reliable Model BT-150A “short” Hub
    Yes, I contacted a Tech at Dexter Axle for verification and the Dexter Axle UFP Idler Hub, # DA54FR is confirmed to be a replacement for the Reliable Brand, Model BT-150A “short” hub on 2,100 lb. axles. The inner & outer races are included but not the bearings or seal. This will use the # L44649 (I.D. of 1.063") for both the inner and outer bearings. We sell the seals, # RG06-020 in pairs (I.D. 1.500 with an O.D. of 1.987). While the races are included with # DA54FR, for future reference,...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Grease Seal for Dexter 8-147 3500lb Axle
    Your Dexter 8-147 hub uses a # LM48548 inner bearing and a # L44649 outer bearing. The inner race is # LM48510 and the outer race is # L446910. The grease seal is part # 58846.
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  • Availability Of Replacement Trailer Hubs With L44649 and LM11949 Bearing Combination
    Based on the measurements you provided of your outer bearing you have the # LM11949 which is kind of an odd-ball bearing, and as such there are no hubs that we offer that use the # L44649 and # LM11949 bearing combination. You did not mention why you need to replace the hub, but assuming there is no excessive damage then your best bet is going to be replacing the bearings with # LM11949, and # L44649, and the races with # L44610 and # LM11910 to refurbish the hub. If it is damaged to...
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  • Replacement Hub, Brake Assemblies, and Bearings for Lippert 4,400 lb Trailer Axle
    Since you have a Lippert 4,400 lb axle the correct replacement hub would be the part # 8-407-5UC3-EZ that you referenced. Then for bearings you are correct you'd just need the part # L68149 and # LM67048. As far as the races go this hub uses the # LM67010 and the # L44610. The reason it may seem different is that the 4,400 lb axle is pretty rare. Other thing to consider is that races in general don't wear out and need replacement like bearings do.
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, Seals, and Grease Caps for 7K Axle
    Since your tandem axle trailer has a 7K GVWR this means that you have 3.5K axles that use the following parts: Inner Bearing - # L68149 Inner Race - # L68111 Outer Bearing - # L44649 Outer Race - # L44610 Grease Seal - # 58846 (1.719" inner diameter) EZ Lube Grease Caps - # RG04-040 The bearings, races, and seals can be found in this kit # BK2-100, so all you'd need are the grease caps # RG04-040 to round out everything you need. Be sure to check what you currently have because even...
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Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


Info for this part was:

Employee Mike L
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Employee Adam R
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Employee Jeff D
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Employee Randy B
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