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Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing

Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing

Item # LM67010
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Our Price: $4.85
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Race for LM67048 Bearing
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with LM67048 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing part number LM67010 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM67010

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 2.328 Inch O.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing LM67048
  • Race LM67010

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with LM67048 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 2.328"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): LM67048


LM67010 Replacement Trailer Hub Race





Video of Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing - LM67010

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (65 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with LM67048 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- LM67010
by:

Just what I needed 887084



- LM67010
by:

877963



- LM67010
by:

872749



- LM67010
by:

Perfect replacement part 863328



- LM67010
by:

Great part, great price 862066



- LM67010
by:

Easy job to swap out the old bearings and replace with the new. 858133



- LM67010
by:

Perfect, just what I needed. 849359



- LM67010
by:

Very helpful, everything was correct and fit perfectly. Will use again next week on horse trailer I just bought. Arrived a day early which helped me get it done on time for my trip to Arkansas. 849498



- LM67010
by:

Installed these bearings and races on my trailer after failure of the manufacture bearings failed because they saved money by not properly lubing at the factory. These have held up well putting on over 40,000 miles and proper lubrication. 807206



- LM67010
by:

I ordered parts for a 1988 boat trailer. I want to say that all the parts ordered, the very timely delivery, and ESPECIALLY the customer service ( thank - you Amy !!! ) were Exceptional!! Will definitely do business with this company again.... 5 STARS !! 777478



- LM67010
by:

good quality product, many miles on them no issues. would recommend 775378



- LM67010
by:

All the parts are items we keep on hand for maintenance of our two large trailers. etrailer has by far the best prices and with free shipping it does not pay us to source the parts locally. 763783



- LM67010
by:

Great service! Brenden C did an excellent job of finding the right parts for my trailer and even upgraded the shipping at no extra cost. I highly recommend etrailer! 756080



- LM67010
by:

Customer service was awesome. 744458



- LM67010
by:

Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend 738070



- LM67010
by:

good bearings I use them in off road highly abused environment and replace annually as preventative maintenance have never had one fail 713366



- LM67010
by:

I like this company. Parts fit. Good qu ality 713223



- LM67010
by:

Perfect fit good price. 706062



- LM67010
by:

Great product and fast shipping. Will be ordering more soon. 680845



- LM67010
by:

Excellent 571019



- LM67010
by:

I used this in order to build the housing for the strut rod bushing on my 1988 Nissan D21 pick-up. I welded a 1/2 inch washer on one side then welded the whole thing to frame of the truck. Up until now, they have held up great. I know this race was not used the way it was intended but it did work for what I needed it for. 538558



- LM67010
by:

Fit perfectly no problems. 513760


Comments
working great, fit perfect, no issues.
Marvin - 06/02/2019

56022

- LM67010
by:

I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!! Thanks Kayla!!! 499772



- LM67010
by:

etrailer and their customer service are the best i've seen, always there to talk you through the process to help ensure you're buying the right part and answer any questions. Great company! 486984



- LM67010
by:

The parts excatly matched the descript ion 482439


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Diameter of TruRyde Trailer Race # LM67010
    The outer diameter of the TruRyde Railer Race # LM67010 you referenced is 2.328 inches according to a measurement we made using a digital caliper. To see how it was sized and for more information on this product, I am providing a link to a video review of this race.
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  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter 5,100 Pound Axle on Grand Design Trailer
    I reached out to my contact at Dexter and with the serial number you provided they were able to track down the correct replacement bearings for the spindles on your axles. For the inner bearing you will use part # 25580 for the bearing itself and # 25520 for the race. For the outer bearing you will use part # LM67048 for the bearing and # LM67010 for the race. The correct grease seal is part # RG06-070. For a complete kit that includes these bearings, races, and seal, you can use...
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  • Bearings and Seal Recommendation for Dexter 3,000 lb Axle
    Thanks for the picture of the tag on your Dexter trailer axle. From that I can tell you have a 3,000 lb Dexter axle. There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. You will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649. For replacement brake assemblies you'd...
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  • What is the Difference Between 1.25 Inch Trailer Bearings
    The short answer is Yes, bearing # 15123 is slightly larger and stronger than # LM67048 and they use different races which means they are not interchangeable. Bearing 15123 uses race # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches and bearing LM67048 uses race # LM67010 which has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The size and strength differences are due to the fact that bearing # 15123 is used in a higher weight capacity hub. Bearing # 15123 is the outer bearing for a hub for...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Idler Hub That Uses a LM67048 Bearing and Has a 5 on 4-1/2 Inch Bolt Pattern
    The LM67000LA is a Timken part number for a bearing cone with a 1.250" I.D. and a 2.328" O.D. This is the same as our bearing part # LM67048. The LM67010 is a Timken part number for a race with a 2.328" O.D. that matches our part # LM67010. The only trailer hub we have that uses this bearing/race and has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern is the Trailer Hub Assembly part # T1721400042. This hub uses a LM67048 inner bearing (1.250") and a LM11949 outer bearing (.750"). Unfortunately, we do not...
    view full answer...
  • Bearings for a Dexter Trailer Hub 8-222
    I called Dexter Axle and they were able to inform me that your Dexter Trailer Hub 8-222 uses a part # L68149 inner bearing, part # L68111 inner race, part # LM67048 outer bearing, part # LM67010 outer race, and a part # 10-40 grease seal. Unfortunately, we don't have a bearing kit with all of these parts for you so they will need to be purchased separately.
    view full answer...
  • Parts Needed to Add Brakes to An AL-KO Axle on 2010 Homesteader Patriot Enclosed Trailer
    In order to determine which brakes and hub/drum assembly you'll be able to use on your AlKo axle, you'll need to know a little bit more information. I'll also add that while your trailer may have a 2990 GVWR, the axle might be rated higher than that; I recommend checking the plate/sticker in the center of your axle to verify the GVWR on the axle. You'll want to start by making sure that your current axle has a brake mounting flange on it; if you don't have a brake mounting flange you...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races, Seals, Brake Drums and Brake Assemblies for 4400 lb Axle
    The spindles used on the 4400 axle are compatible with the # L67048 Inner bearing and # LM67010 race and the # L44649 Outer bearing and # L44610 race, along with the 10-19 grease seal, part # RG06-050. You'll want to confirm this by pulling one of the hubs to check the reference numbers off of your current bearings. For brakes, you'd need a 10 x 2-1/4 inch brake assembly. I'd recommend a Nev-r-adjust assembly, part # K23-478-479 for the right and left sides. Typically, it's recommended...
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit with LM67048 and L44649 Bearings
    I do have all of the parts you need but we do not offer an all inclusive bearing kit with them. Instead, you will need to purchase each separately using the list I have attached for you below. Inner Bearing - part # LM67048 Inner Race - part # LM67010 Outer Bearing - part # L44649 Outer Race - part # L44610 Grease Seal - part # 10-42 Tang Washer - part # 5-101
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  • Replacement 6 Bolt Agricultural Hub for 1978 John Deer Implement Trailer
    Given the bearing numbers and the fact that it's a 6 bolt hub, you're needing the Dexter # 42660UC1 Agricultural hub. The bearings, races and seals are sold separately. You'll need the # 25580 inner bearing, the # LM67048 outer bearing, the # 25520 inner race and the # LM67010 outer race. The grease seal we carry that cross-references to the SKF 21352 is part # GS-2125DL. This hub is typically used with the # GS-2250DL grease seal, so I'd recommend you use a digital caliper on the surface...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Grease Seals for Karavan Ultra 2 Place Snowmobile Trailer
    Knowing that the trailer uses a # BB1781 Bearing Buddy helps me to identify the correct replacement bearings. We carry two hubs with that bolt pattern, one with a 5 lug on 4-1/2 inch bolt circle, the other much less likely possibility is a 4 lug hub that's typically used for agricultural applications. Your outer bearing is a # LM11949, outer race is # LM11910, and the inner bearing is likely # LM67048, which would be used with the # LM67010 race. You can confirm this by using a digital...
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  • Replacement Seals and Bearings for 4,400 lb Axle
    We have the bearings and seals you would need for your 4,400 lb axle. It would be inner bearing # L68149 with race # L68111, outer bearing # LM67048 with race # LM67010 and grease seal # RG06-050. You can find the prices of these parts on their product pages. I've added links of video reviews of these products for you to take a look at as well.
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  • What are the Correct Bearings and Races for Dexter 8-201 Electric Drum Brakes?
    The Dexter hub you referenced, 8-201, is a 5,200 lb hub, though a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern does not come on 5,200 lb hubs. The correct bearings for the 5,200 lb hub are # 25580 and # LM67048, while the proper races are # 25520 and # LM67010. I have attached a link to a help article on wheel bearings that you may find useful. If you can provide the diameter of the brake assemblies and/or the axle capacity, I would be happy to make a specific recommendation for you.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Hub Components For Dexter 4,300-Lb Axle On 2013 Airstream Trailer
    I found the components you need for your Dexter axle on your Airstream trailer. The grease seal you need is part # RG06-070. The inner bearing is part # 25580. The inner race is part # 25520. The outer bearing is part # LM67048, and the outer race is part # LM67010. I have also attached a helpful article that explains how to replace hub components. To make the job of packing the wheel bearing much easier I recommend a bearing packer like part # L70025. For grease I recommend part...
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  • Bearing/Race/Seal Kit for Boat Trailer w/ NOK AD7131E Seal 25580 Inner and LM67048 Outer Bearing
    Although we don't have a kit that includes the bearings/seal all in one package, you can certainly obtain the parts separately. You'll need: # 25580 inner bearing and its # 25520 race # LM67048 outer bearing and its # LM67010 race # 21325 Double Lip Grease Seal (cross references to the NOK seal you referenced) # 5-101 spindle washer # 165649 cotter pin I'll link you to our FAQ article about replacing bearings, races and seals.
    view full answer...
  • Self-Adjusting Brake Assembly Recommendation for Lippert 4,400 Trailer Axles
    We have just what you need. The Dexter brake assemblies part # K23-478-00 for the left hand side and part # K23-479-00 for the right hand side are exactly what you are looking for. They are 4,400 lb capacity, will fit your axle, and are self-adjusting.
    view full answer...
  • Which Bearings, Races, and Seal Fit Dexter Hubs 8-283
    For the inner bearing you need # LM67048 and race # LM67010. The outer bearing is # L44649 and race # L44610. The seal is # 10-42.
    view full answer...
  • Identifying Replacement Wheel Bearings for Unknown Hubs on Boat Trailer
    The easiest way to identify the needed replacement bearing kit is to obtain the reference numbers off the existing bearings. Your best bet would be to clean the existing bearings and closely examine them for the reference numbers. Given the inside diameter you provided, the bearings could be a # LM67048, # 15123 or # 14125A, all of which have a 1.25 inch inside diameter. All three bearings are listed as outer bearings for certain hubs, none of the hubs we offer would use these as both...
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  • Replacement Bearing, Seals, and Races for ShoreLandr Boat Trailer
    Based on the measurements and bearing numbers you provided me. We have the individual parts you need. You'd want the bearing part # LM67048 and # L68149. Since the inner diameter of bearing # LM67048 is 1.250 inches and the inner diameter of bearing # L68149 is 1.378 inches. The matching race for bearing # LM67048 is # LM67010. And the matching race for bearing L68149 is # L68111. The seal you need is # RG06-050.
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  • Is TruRyde Outer Bearing # LM67048 Equal to Timken Bearing 02475
    The outer bearing in the TruRyde Bearing Kit, part # BK3-300, is part # LM67048. This outer bearing has an internal diameter of 1.25 inches and uses a bearing race # LM67010 with an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The bearing kit # BK3-300 is designed for 5,200-lbs axle, 6,000-lbs axle, and 7,000-lbs axle. I looked up a Timken # 02475 bearing and it also shows an internal diameter of 1.25 inches, but is rated for a larger 8,000-lb axle, so it will be used on a larger hub with a different...
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  • Replacement hub Parts for 3,000 lb Dexter Axle With Bearings LM67048 and L44649
    There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. Obviously, you will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649.
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  • Bearing Kit for LM67048 Outside Bearing and Grease Seal GS-2250DL
    I believe you meant that your grease seal is GS-2250DL. If so, the correct bearing kit for you would be # BK3-300. This kit is for an axle with a 5,200 lb capacity, has outer bearing # LM67048, outer race # LM67010, inner bearing # 25580, inner race # 25520 and grease seal # # GS-2250DL. I've added a link to a video review of this kit for you to take a look at as well.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for 3,000 lb Dexter Axle
    The correct replacement bearings, races, and grease seal for a 3,000 lb Dexter axle are the following: - Bearings # L44649 and # LM67048 - Races # L44610 and # LM67010 - Grease Seal # 58846 For grease I recommend the LubriMatic Disc/Drum Brake and Wheel Bearing Grease # L11380. And for a bearing packer I recommend the Bearing Packer # PTW1218 or # ALL647646.
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  • Replacement Bearings for Mobile Home Hub with 1-1/4 Outer and 1-3/8 Inner Bearings
    It sounds like you're trying to replace hubs on a mobile home axle. Mobile home axles are designed for one time use, to transport the mobile home from point A to point B and then intended to be discarded after that. Because of this, replacement parts are rarely available for most mobile home axles and although we don't have a hub that matches the bearing sizes you mentioned, we have replacement bearings that may work to service your existing hub. For a bearing with a 1.375 inch inner...
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  • Trailer Bearing Availability with Inner Diameter of .75 inch and 1.25 inch
    The fact your outer bearing fits on a .75 diameter spindle means we aren't going to have a standard bearing kit to fit since that's not a standard dimension. Can you get me the C dimension as well? It could be that you need the part # LM67048 with a race # LM67010 which has an inner diameter of 1.25 and # LM11949 with race # LM11910 which has inner diameter of .75 inch.
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  • Hub and Drum Assembly for Hubs with Bearings 25580 and LM67048, and Grease Seal 10-10
    Yes it will! Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-201-5 is a fit if you have inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # LM67048 and grease seal 10-10, which is part # RG06-090. That grease seal is for EZ Lube axles so the correct grease cap would be # RG04-080. Those parts do not come with this assembly, you would need to get them separately. For races you need # 25520 for the inner bearing and # LM67010 for the outer bearing. This hub and drum is rated for 5,200 lbs and has a 6 on 5-1/2"...
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  • Replacement Bearings Races And Seals For Agricultural Trailer
    I was unable to find Timken bearings with the LM11949 part number. The part # LM11949 we carry is a replacement outer bearing for AH15450E agricultural hub. These have an inner diameter of .750 inches. The matching outer race for this bearing is part # LM11910. The outer seal that works with this bearing and race is part # SL150. We do not currently offer a kit that includes the # LM11949 bearings. I highly recommend replacing the inner bearings, races, and seals at the same...
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  • Availability of Bearing Race to Match Bearing Number LM67048
    The matching race for the bearing part # LM67048 that you referenced is the part # LM67010. This has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The race we have that has an outer diameter of 2.441 inch is the part # 15245 which is designed for the bearing # 15123. The # 15123 happens to have an inner diameter of 1.25 inch like the # LM67048 that you mentioned as well.
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  • Looking for Replacement Bearings for Axle Using # L68149 Inner Bearing
    The # L68149 bearing you mentioned is most commonly used with the # L44649 outer bearing, but it is sometimes used with the # LM67048 outer bearing, as well. If you can't read the reference number of your outer inner bearing, you can always use a digital caliper to measure the diameter of the spindle where that bearing rides. If that diameter is abut 1.06, you'll need the L44649 bearing. If the diameter you get is about 1.25 inches, you'll need the # LM67048. The # BK2-100 bearing...
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  • Selecting Correct Replacement Grease Seal for Inner Bearing LM67048
    In applications that use inner bearing # LM67048 and race # LM67010 the grease seal most often specified is part # GS-2125DL. This is a double-lip seal. You can confirm the correct grease seal by taking two measurements, of the spindle where the inner diameter of the seal rides on it, and at the back of the hub where the seal is inserted. You can refer to the linked diagram. At point B you can measure the spindle diameter to ensure it will mate well with the seal's inner diameter of...
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