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Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing

Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing

Item # LM67010
Our Price: $4.34
You Save: 41%
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.13 lbs
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with LM67048 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing part number LM67010 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM67010

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 2.328 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing LM67048
  • etrailer
  • Race LM67010

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with LM67048 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


  • Outer diameter: 2.328"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): LM67048

LM67010 Replacement Trailer Hub Race

Video of Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for LM67048 Bearing - LM67010

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (117 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with LM67048 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


The parts actually went into a farm wagon. No problem exact fit and less expensive than the local parts store


This rating is for the packaging only, shipped very poorly with no protection. four sets of bearings thrown in a box,
Had to return. (photo enclosed).


flawless transaction, customer service was a huge help finding the correct parts.


I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!!

Thanks Kayla!!!


Installed these bearings and races on my trailer after failure of the manufacture bearings failed because they saved money by not properly lubing at the factory. These have held up well putting on over 40,000 miles and proper lubrication.


I have a boat trailer that requires wheel bearings and seals periodically. It is 20 years old but I easily found replacements at I bookmarked the parts so I can get them easily next time. Noticed that the original bearings were made in England, the recent ones are made in China and are of equivalent excellent quality. Delivery was prompt, packing very good.
Good retailer.


Hi, I have purchased many trailer replacement parts from E trailer over the years.

I never have been disappointed an I will continue to buy their products as I need them.

I would recommend them to my family and friends,

Tom K.


I was and are pleased with etrailer products, any time I need something for my boator utility trailer I always check etrailer website first.


product is great -- shipping/packaging could be better. Considering this is a wear item that gets replaced if there are surface defects that my create heat/friction, I don't see why these are just thrown in a box with a bit of paper, rather than wrapped in bubble-plastic or some other protective medium. other reviews have cited this, but apparently nothing has changed...


Removed trailer outer bearing to find a scored "race". Customer Service, extremely helpful and patient in trying to match up a few visible number on the old bearing and race to list of available options in etrailer's stock. Part was a perfect match, pressed in race. assembled hub and wheel, and back in business.


I ordered wheel bearings and grease seals for my boat trailer at a fraction of the price at my local parts store. I received my parts in three days, it was going to be a week or more from the parts store!
So thank you for fantastic service.
I will highly recommend you and I will return.


Item as described. I have never replaced wheel bearings/seals, I always had someone else do it. This time I tried it on my own, and the parts I ordered/received fit as expected and all is well.

thank you etrailer!


I bought all of these parts for future use. The local bearing house's prices are outrageous, so I wanted to have these parts on hand when I do maintenance on my 2014 Jayco Travel Trailer. Jan helped me decide the parts I needed after I tried to order online. The numbers on my bearing were hard to read, so she was a great help in determining the correct parts.


I had a non standard axle, so had to call and verify bearings. Was very pleased with the service and that the person on the other end was very easy to understand. Shipment was fast and the parts fit. The price was very competitive.


All the bearings, races, and seals I have purchased from etrailer have been good quality and have never failed. I have used them in my travel trailer for many years.


I used this in order to build the housing for the strut rod bushing on my 1988 Nissan D21 pick-up. I welded a 1/2 inch washer on one side then welded the whole thing to frame of the truck. Up until now, they have held up great. I know this race was not used the way it was intended but it did work for what I needed it for.


Great products and fast service. I ordered the bearings, race and seals. I ordered the wrong seals so haven't been able to complete. I must have misread something.


etrailer had the parts that I needed, without having to run all over town looking for them.

I just whipped out my smartphone, found what I needed, ordered it and had it in 2 days.

No wasted time. Great prices, and service.


Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend


Great quality and fast delivery.
I will
buy from etrailer again.
The bearings and the race worked perfect for my application.


I ordered parts for a 1988 boat trailer. I want to say that all the parts ordered, the very timely delivery, and ESPECIALLY the customer service ( thank - you Amy !!! ) were Exceptional!! Will definitely do business with this company again.... 5 STARS !!


All the parts are items we keep on hand for maintenance of our two large trailers. etrailer has by far the best prices and with free shipping it does not pay us to source the parts locally.


good bearings I use them in off road highly abused environment and replace annually as preventative maintenance have never had one fail


Received Trailer bearings and misc parts as ordered.


Great service! Brenden C did an excellent job of finding the right parts for my trailer and even upgraded the shipping at no extra cost. I highly recommend etrailer!


etrailer and their customer service are the best i've seen, always there to talk you through the process to help ensure you're buying the right part and answer any questions. Great company!

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Diameter of TruRyde Trailer Race # LM67010
    The outer diameter of the TruRyde Railer Race # LM67010 you referenced is 2.328 inches according to a measurement we made using a digital caliper. To see how it was sized and for more information on this product, I am providing a link to a video review of this race.
    view full answer...
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  • Availability of Replacement Wheel Bearing Races Compatible w/ LM67048 Wheel Bearings
    If the races are the only problem with the hubs, you can use a brass punch to pound out the races and install new ones. The proper race would be # LM67010. None of the hubs we offer would use the LM67048 as the inner and outer bearing. The LM67048 is usually used as an outer bearing on a 5200, 6000 or 7000 lb capacity axle. The trailer you have could be very old, or sometimes folks will rebuild trailers using automotive axles. A hub that uses the bearing set-up you describe isn't common...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Bearing Availability with Inner Diameter of .75 inch and 1.25 inch
    The fact your outer bearing fits on a .75 diameter spindle means we aren't going to have a standard bearing kit to fit since that's not a standard dimension. Can you get me the C dimension as well? It could be that you need the part # LM67048 with a race # LM67010 which has an inner diameter of 1.25 and # LM11949 with race # LM11910 which has inner diameter of .75 inch.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Parts or Replacement for Mobile Home Axle
    What parts are you needing, exactly? If you need bearings and a grease seal, we can likely help you there but for replacement hubs, we don't offer anything that would work with bearing sets with the dimensions you mentioned. If you could reply with the reference number from the inner race or bearing, I'd be happy to recommend a replacement inner bearing and grease seal. Your outer bearing dimension points to a # LM67048 bearing which uses a # LM67010 race. Mobile home axles are a one-time...
    view full answer...
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  • Availability of Bearing Race to Match Bearing Number LM67048
    The matching race for the bearing part # LM67048 that you referenced is the part # LM67010. This has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The race we have that has an outer diameter of 2.441 inch is the part # 15245 which is designed for the bearing # 15123. The # 15123 happens to have an inner diameter of 1.25 inch like the # LM67048 that you mentioned as well.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing and Race Combo with Bearing Inner Diameter 1.25
    The bearing and race combo you are looking for is the bearing part # LM67048 and race # LM67010 which covers exactly what you are looking for.
    view full answer...
  • What are the Correct Bearings and Races for Dexter 8-201 Electric Drum Brakes?
    The Dexter hub you referenced, 8-201, is a 5,200 lb hub, though a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern does not come on 5,200 lb hubs. The correct bearings for the 5,200 lb hub are # 25580 and # LM67048, while the proper races are # 25520 and # LM67010. I have attached a link to a help article on wheel bearings that you may find useful. If you can provide the diameter of the brake assemblies and/or the axle capacity, I would be happy to make a specific recommendation for you.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Recommendation with an Inner Diameter of 1.25 inches
    The bearing part # 15123 that you referenced has an inner diameter of 1.25 inches. The matching race for this bearing though is part # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches. It sounds like you actually need bearing part # Lm67048 and race # LM67010 since you said you need an ID of 1.25 and an OD of 2.328.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for Older Trailer
    Thank you for providing the original bearing and seal numbers from your old trailer. These part reference numbers are often the best method for finding replacements, although especially with older trailers often alternate parts may have found their way into the trailer during its lifetime. We do have the bearings # LM67048 and # LM11949 as well as their matching races, parts # LM67010 and # LM11910. Please note that both of these bearings have an application as an OUTER bearing. The part...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings And Races For Agricultural Hub
    What you have is an agricultural hub assembly. We will not have a replacement hub but we do offer replacement bearings and races. Inner Bearing # LM48548 Inner Race # LM48510 Outer Bearing # LM67048 Outer Race # LM67010
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings Races and Seals for a 1974 Midwest Boat Trailer
    Based on the measurements that you have provided, check out the outer bearing # LM11949 and race # LM11910. This bearing and race combinations has an inner diameter of .750 inches and an outer diameter of 1.781 inches. For the inner bearing and race you will need bearing # LM67048 and race # LM67010. The inner diameter for this bearing and race combination is 1.250 inches and the outer diameter for race # LM67010 is 2.328 inches. We do not have a race with an OD of 2.30. The grease...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings Races And Seals For Agricultural Trailer
    I was unable to find Timken bearings with the LM11949 part number. The part # LM11949 we carry is a replacement outer bearing for AH15450E agricultural hub. These have an inner diameter of .750 inches. The matching outer race for this bearing is part # LM11910. The outer seal that works with this bearing and race is part # SL150. We do not currently offer a kit that includes the # LM11949 bearings. I highly recommend replacing the inner bearings, races, and seals at the same time....
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings Kit For Boat Trailer With DICO Hubs/Drums
    I can certainly point you in the right direction. I was not able to reference that DICO part number, but with the information you provided, we can narrow it down quite a bit. I have not heard of a LM57010 race, but there is a LM67010 which is fairly common. The LM67010 race has an outer diameter of 2.328". This typically goes with the LM67048 bearing which has an inner diameter of 1.250". So it sounds like we are on the same page with the sizes. We have the bearing kit # BK3-300 which...
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  • Recommended Replacement Trailer Hub Components
    I was unable to find the Chicago Rawhide Seal 550081 you said you have on your trailer. With the inner bearing part # LM67048 and Inner Race part # LM67010, and the outer bearing part # LM11949 and Outer Race part # LM11910, the seal we offer is part # SL150 as you mentioned. This seal has an inner diameter of 1.5 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches. To make sure you choose a seal that has the right dimensions for your spindle and hub. You can use a digital caliper like part...
    view full answer...
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  • Replacement Hub with 5 on 5 Bolt Pattern Using LM67048 and LM11949 Bearings
    I may have a solution for you to replace the bearings, but I'm not aware of a hub that uses these particular bearings and also has a 5 on 5 bolt pattern. Typically this bearing combination is found on smaller agricultural hubs. Assuming your hubs are otherwise still in good working order you could simply swap in new bearings, races and grease seals. If you wanted to go that route then you'll need bearing # LM67048 with a race # LM67010 which have an inner diameter of 1.250 inches; then...
    view full answer...
  • Options For Rebuilding Obsolete Shorelandr SS370 Hub with 3/4" and 1-1/4" Bearings
    I have a solution to rebuild your hub as long as it's just the bearings/races that are worn, but that bearing combination is obsolete so there's no new hubs available. Since it's very uncommon that the physical hub itself gets damaged you should be able to rebuild it. Based on your measurement's you'll need the following parts: Races # LM11910 and # LM67010 Bearings # LM11949 and # LM67048 You'll also need some grease of which I really like the Hi-Temp Grease # L11380.
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  • Recommended Timken Races And Bearings For A Dexter Axle
    We have ecerything you need! For the LM67048 Bearing, you'll need: -The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # LM67048, For the 25580 Bearing, you'll need: -The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # 25580, For the LM67010 Race, you'll need: -The Replacement Race for LM67048 # LM67010, & Finally, for the 25520 Race, you'll need: -The Replacement Race for 25580 Bearing # 25520.
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  • What is the Difference Between 1.25 Inch Trailer Bearings
    The short answer is Yes, bearing # 15123 is slightly larger and stronger than # LM67048 and they use different races which means they are not interchangeable. Bearing 15123 uses race # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches and bearing LM67048 uses race # LM67010 which has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The size and strength differences are due to the fact that bearing # 15123 is used in a higher weight capacity hub. Bearing # 15123 is the outer bearing for a hub for a...
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  • Which Bearings Does 5100lb Dexter Axle In Travel Trailer Use?
    I reached out to my contact at Dexter and based on the serial number located on the axle tag you sent in, your 5100lb axle uses inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # LM67048, and grease seal # RG06-070. If you are needing races as well you will need # 25520 and # LM67010. In your pictures you have bearing # 25580 which will work but you will need to purchase # LM67048 and # RG06-070 still as they do not match the other bearing or seal in your picture. I included videos of the products...
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  • Is TruRyde Outer Bearing # LM67048 Equal to Timken Bearing 02475
    The outer bearing in the TruRyde Bearing Kit, part # BK3-300, is part # LM67048. This outer bearing has an internal diameter of 1.25 inches and uses a bearing race # LM67010 with an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The bearing kit # BK3-300 is designed for 5,200-lbs axle, 6,000-lbs axle, and 7,000-lbs axle. I looked up a Timken # 02475 bearing and it also shows an internal diameter of 1.25 inches, but is rated for a larger 8,000-lb axle, so it will be used on a larger hub with a different...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Grease Seal for Dexter 4400 lb Capacity Axle
    The Dexter 4400 lb axle is a bit of an oddball, so we don't have a bearing kit for it, but we do offer everything you'd need to assemble one. Here's what you'd need: • Inner Bearing # L68149 • Inner Race # LM68111 • Outer Bearing # LM67048 • Outer Race # LM67010 • Grease Seal # 58846
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  • Replacement Bearings For A Dexter 2200 Pound P12 SLR Axle SN: D5860714
    When it comes to replacing bearings on your Dexter 2200 pound P12 SLR axle SN: D5860714 per Dexter the inner and outer bearing number is # LM67048. Then you would need The Race # LM67010, and The Grease Seal # GS-2125DL We do not sell a kit with all the pieces together. I attached a review video link below.
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  • Identifying Replacement Wheel Bearings for Unknown Hubs on Boat Trailer
    The easiest way to identify the needed replacement bearing kit is to obtain the reference numbers off the existing bearings. Your best bet would be to clean the existing bearings and closely examine them for the reference numbers. Given the inside diameter you provided, the bearings could be a # LM67048, # 15123 or # 14125A, all of which have a 1.25 inch inside diameter. All three bearings are listed as outer bearings for certain hubs, none of the hubs we offer would use these as both...
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  • Which Bearings, Races, and Seal Fit Dexter Hubs 8-283
    For the inner bearing you need # LM67048 and race # LM67010. The outer bearing is # L44649 and race # L44610. The seal is # 10-42.
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