Arrives before Christmas 
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with LM67048 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.
Features:
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Speaker 1: Today we're going to be taking a look at the race replacement process for trailer hubs. Now these races, you can see one right here, are designed to fit inside of your hub. They're going to allow your bearing a nice seat. It's going to come in, it fits on there, this stays with the hub, this goes around your axle. That's going to give us our rotation of our hub, so we don't have metal on metal contact. That's what the system's designed to do.Now these races over time are going to get fatigued.
Let me take one of these out and I'll show you what I mean. Now the removal process of a race is typically going to involve a punch or a screwdriver that you don't like too much, because we're going to be knocking on this with a hammer, and typically you're going to deform that tip. That's why that one's been ground down a few times. With either method, we need to tap on the back side of the race. You can see this front race here, it's going to go in and there's a little lip in here behind it.
We're actually looking at the back of another race. You see this lip right down here. That's going to be our inner race, which is right here.We'll start by getting that one out. Punch or screwdriver, and then we're going to start tapping on it. Now whatever surface you're working on, it's a good idea to have a block of wood.
It's going to kind of help keep this metal from hitting into the concrete or digging into grass or whatever you might be working on. You see if you just bring your punch down so it sits on the back side of that race, or bring your screwdriver down so it sits on the backside of that race, and we'll begin tapping.We're going to go side to side, forward and back. As we do our race is going to start sliding out of the hub. See our race is almost out here to the edge. Kind of hear how that tone changed a little bit.
Now we'll support it using two blocks of wood because that needs to come out. You can see our old race, let's just wipe this off a little bit and take a look at the symptoms that will cause us to need a replacement here. You see all the marks and all the grooves that are around that outside edge You can even see some cracking from excess heat, so we probably had a bearing failure here. Some of the material got in between the bearing and the race and it caused all this damage.As your bearing rides on that, it's drastically going to decrease the life. Once you have a nice smooth surface for the bearing to ride on, that extends the life. That's going to make our bearing last much longer, so it's a great idea to replace your races if you see any kind of issues like this. Now this is going to work out great for just a low budget hub rebuild, but these replacement races also come in really handy in the situation that maybe your hub's gone obsolete and they don't make a complete replacement. You can still get the components you need to rebuild that and extend the life of your trailer.We'll do the same thing for our other side. Inside there's a spot where our race is meant to seat right up against. You can see it's kind of like a little raised edge there You want to be sure that you take a towel, or if you need to maybe if there's some rust build up in there or something, a small pick or small screwdriver, and you want to clean that seat off really well so our race will go all the way down in and made up against the surface it's intended to. See there we've got it nice and clean now, so our race should seat in there well. Just want to make sure your inner and outer race seats are both nice and clean, and we'll show you how to get your new race installed.We want the thinner portion of the race, you can see the thinner portion here, the thicker portion there, we want the thinner portion to face out, and then we need to drive this down into place. Now there are a few methods for this. One would be taking a block of wood. You'll tap that until it comes down flush with the face of the hub, kind of like that. Then you'll take your old race and put the thick side down and use that to drive it in just a little bit further to where there's a small lip all the way around and then at that point some guys will take a punch or a screwdriver, or in this case I really prefer a punch though.If you look at the end of these two punches. One of them is nice and clean and flush. One of them has been beat up quite a bit. I would choose the cleaner of the two punches. That's going to reduce the risk that we'll cause any damage to our race. Then it's just a matter of slowly going around side to side and getting it tapped all the way down against that seat.The second method is going to be our race and seal driver kit. Now this is from Performance Tool. It comes with many different size heads for many of the different common size races and bearings. Part number on this is PTW83020. This takes a lot of the worry out that you might potentially cause damage to your new race as it goes in. You can see it's got the perfect taper, it's designed to fit that race, then it's just a matter of driving it in with your hammer. As you go you'll want to listen for the sound to change. It's going to go from a hollowish sound as it's moving to a much more firm sound. Right there.We'll flip this over and we just need to check around the back side of our race to make sure it's all the way down against that seat. Now we're ready to do the other side. As you drive your races in you can see sometimes they pull off just a little bit of the metal off the outside of the hub, so it's a really good idea at this point to make sure we get any of that out of there. What we're going to be left with is essentially a brand new hub. We've got our races put right in there. Our bearings going to have an excellent spot to go in and seat, and that will help us ensure we get maximum life out of our trailer and we won't have any failures.That's going to complete our look at the race replacement process. You're able to replace your races in your hub rather than purchasing complete replacements.
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (124 Customer Reviews)
Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with LM67048 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.What more can I say? Hard to find part finally found the right part at etrailer!
This rating is for the packaging only, shipped very poorly with no protection. four sets of bearings thrown in a box,
Had to return. (photo enclosed).
The parts actually went into a farm wagon. No problem exact fit and less expensive than the local parts store
Direct fit for my old was a U-haul trai ler.
Hi, I have purchased many trailer replacement parts from E trailer over the years.
I never have been disappointed an I will continue to buy their products as I need them.
I would recommend them to my family and friends,
Thomas
I have a boat trailer that requires wheel bearings and seals periodically. It is 20 years old but I easily found replacements at etrailer.com. I bookmarked the parts so I can get them easily next time. Noticed that the original bearings were made in England, the recent ones are made in China and are of equivalent excellent quality. Delivery was prompt, packing very good.
Good retailer.
flawless transaction, customer service was a huge help finding the correct parts.
Installed these bearings and races on my trailer after failure of the manufacture bearings failed because they saved money by not properly lubing at the factory. These have held up well putting on over 40,000 miles and proper lubrication.
I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!!
Thanks Kayla!!!
Removed trailer outer bearing to find a scored "race". Customer Service, extremely helpful and patient in trying to match up a few visible number on the old bearing and race to list of available options in etrailer's stock. Part was a perfect match, pressed in race. assembled hub and wheel, and back in business.
I ordered wheel bearings and grease seals for my boat trailer at a fraction of the price at my local parts store. I received my parts in three days, it was going to be a week or more from the parts store!
So thank you Etrailer.com for fantastic service.
I will highly recommend you and I will return.
etrailer had the parts that I needed, without having to run all over town looking for them.
I just whipped out my smartphone, found what I needed, ordered it and had it in 2 days.
No wasted time. Great prices, and service.
Item as described. I have never replaced wheel bearings/seals, I always had someone else do it. This time I tried it on my own, and the parts I ordered/received fit as expected and all is well.
thank you etrailer!
I bought all of these parts for future use. The local bearing house's prices are outrageous, so I wanted to have these parts on hand when I do maintenance on my 2014 Jayco Travel Trailer. Jan helped me decide the parts I needed after I tried to order online. The numbers on my bearing were hard to read, so she was a great help in determining the correct parts.
All the bearings, races, and seals I have purchased from etrailer have been good quality and have never failed. I have used them in my travel trailer for many years.
I had a non standard axle, so had to call and verify bearings. Was very pleased with the service and that the person on the other end was very easy to understand. Shipment was fast and the parts fit. The price was very competitive.
Great quality and fast delivery.
I will buy from etrailer again.
The bearings and the race worked perfect for my application.
I used this in order to build the housing for the strut rod bushing on my 1988 Nissan D21 pick-up. I welded a 1/2 inch washer on one side then welded the whole thing to frame of the truck. Up until now, they have held up great. I know this race was not used the way it was intended but it did work for what I needed it for.
All the parts are items we keep on hand for maintenance of our two large trailers. etrailer has by far the best prices and with free shipping it does not pay us to source the parts locally.
Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend
I ordered parts for a 1988 boat trailer. I want to say that all the parts ordered, the very timely delivery, and ESPECIALLY the customer service ( thank - you Amy !!! ) were Exceptional!! Will definitely do business with this company again.... 5 STARS !!
etrailer and their customer service are the best i've seen, always there to talk you through the process to help ensure you're buying the right part and answer any questions. Great company!
Received Trailer bearings and misc parts as ordered.
Great products and fast service. I ordered the bearings, race and seals. I ordered the wrong seals so haven't been able to complete. I must have misread something.
Very helpful, everything was correct and fit perfectly. Will use again next week on horse trailer I just bought. Arrived a day early which helped me get it done on time for my trip to Arkansas.
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Tom K.
1/16/2018
I was and are pleased with etrailer products, any time I need something for my boator utility trailer I always check etrailer website first.