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Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Item # BK3-100
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Shipping Weight: 1.86 lbs
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal part number BK3-100 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK3-100

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 15123 and 25580
  • Race 25520 and 15245


Trailer Axle Bearing Kit

Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
15123
25580
10-36
2.250"
Bearing Kit Includes:
  • One Inner Bearing and Race
  • One Outer Bearing and Race
  • Grease Seal
  • Cotter Pin


BK3-100 Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal





Video of Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal - BK3-100

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (121 Customer Reviews)


- BK3-100
by:

easy to install and have been working g reat 669302



- BK3-100
by:

Very pleased! Very quick delivery. Bearing kit appeared identical to the bearing I purchased from Dexter at about 50%their price.Nice job people. Couldn't be happier! 148341


Comments
Just got back from trip to Grand Canyon about 5600 miles. No problems. Thanks for keeping me on the road!
John S - 08/25/2015

14543

- BK3-100
by:

Everything got like it should and I have a good amount of miles and no problems 469372



- BK3-100
by:

The parts fit like a glove---one nights work and my trailer is back in action. The 2day shipping was worth every penny. Thanks etrailer!!! 139075


Comments
Wheels still turning like new
Marc K - 07/04/2015

13029

- BK3-100
by:

REPLACED THE BEARINGS ON MY TRAILER .. GREAT PARTS AT EVEN A BETTER PRICE !!!! 111402


Comments
I HAVE PULLED MY OWENS TRAILER FROM THE EAST TO WEST AND IT PULLS LIKE A DREAM YOU DONT EVEN KNOW ITS BACK THERE . I PUT NEW TRURYDE BEARINGS AND RACES IN OVER A YEAR AGO AND WITH SEVERAL THOUSAND MILES ON THEM,THEY HAVE HELD UP GREAT!!! I WOULD SAY THAT I WOULD USE THEM AGAIN !!!! AND I WOULD SAY GREAT PARTS AT EVEN A BETTER PRICE WITH FAST SHIPPING AT www.etrailer.com !!!! THIS IS WHERE I LOOK FOR ALL MY PARTS NOW !!SO IF YOU SEE A WHITE TRAILER PASS YOU ON THE INTERSTATE WITH THE DECAL - OWENS ANTLER CHANDELIERS - YOU WILL KNOW THAT THAT TRAILER HAS TRURYDE BEARINGS AND RACES TAKING IT DOWN THE ROAD !!!!
RICHARD O - 01/11/2015

8530

- BK3-100
by:

Put these under a 7000lb cabin cruiser and have put over 3000 miles on them with no issues 563168



- BK3-100
by:

Was unsure about the size but with your detail description was able to select the correct size. Thanks so much! 727724



- BK3-100
by:

Quick delivery of the right parts for a hard to find bearing. Great job. 726169



- BK3-100
by:

Got for a backup 710603



- BK3-100
by:

Precisely what I ordered. Thank you. 702815



- BK3-100
by:

Bearings and seals are in good shape after a year! They are on a boat trailer, so no too many miles on them, but I just repacked and they are holding up. 688650



- BK3-100
by:

Product as described, new. No signs of rust as someone previously posted. Kits packaged and sealed in bubble wrap envelopes 675336



- BK3-100
by:

very convenient kits 672907



- BK3-100
by:

Perfect fit, and a lot less than the parts stores 662536



- BK3-100
by:

Bearings performed flawlessly for the past year. I fish saltwater with about 50 launches annually so time to change the bearings out with a fresh set. I plan on ordering these bearings again from etrailer 659717



- BK3-100
by:

These are Chinese bearings & races, so time will tell about quality. However, the price was right (less than half of what the local NAPA store wanted for their Chinese bearings) and, as usual, the service from the folks at etrailer was superior! 656308



- BK3-100
by:

This bearing kit arrived fast and I liked that it is a complete bearing change out package. THe videos you present are excellent. I struggled on removing the inner bearing cup until I saw the video you had on bearing replacement. 654481



- BK3-100
by:

Was a perfect match. Delivered in a timely manner. 642515



- BK3-100
by:

They fit well and the packaging was very nice 642489



- BK3-100
by:

I spent half of a day running around to parts stores that didn’t have half of what I needed. Came back home and found what I needed at Etrailer for a fraction of what it would have cost and I was able to get everything I needed quickly. I especially appreciate the instructional videos and detailed product descriptions. 613219



- BK3-100
by:

Received sooner than expected and parts were perfect. I also liked the support videos 594210



- BK3-100
by:

All the parts fit perfect and operate g reat 589376



- BK3-100
by:

Quality hub bearing kit for half the price!!! Who wouldn't be happy? 584413



- BK3-100
by:

I love the ease of purchasing bearing products from etrailer. It's my go to. Just make sure you have the exact measurements you need. 584289



- BK3-100
by:

It fits perfect thank you very much 572028


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Bearing Recommendation for Dexter 6,000 lb Axles
    We have two bearing kits that could fit for your Dexter 6,000 lb axles. The difference is the seal size. The part # BK3-100 is the kit that has the correct bearings and a seal with an inner diameter of 2.25 inches. This is most likely what you need. The other options is the part # BK3-110 which has a grease seal with an inner diameter of 2.125 inches. You would need to measure the outer diameter of the spindle your seal rides on to determine which kit you'd need.
    view full answer...
  • Will Bearing Kit BK3-100 Replace Lippert Kit 333950
    Bearing Kit # BK3-100 consists of bearings 15123 and 25580, matching races, grease seal and cotter pin. This kit is intended for a 6K axle. The same component parts are found in Lippert bearing kit 333950, also rated for a 6K axle. Two helpful articles concerning bearings are linked for your reference.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings/Seals/Races for Dexter P-29 7K Axle
    After quite a bit of searching, I wasn't able to determine which bearings, races and seals were included with the hubs used on your Dexter Axles. You did a great job of providing me with lots of information, which makes my life easier but in this case I couldn't find anything. You'll need to pull one of your hubs, and get the reference numbers from the inner and outer bearing, from which we can determine which races and seals are needed. If you can't make out the reference numbers, you'd...
    view full answer...
  • How To Replace Bearings and Seals on Unknown Brand and Size Trailer Axle
    To find the proper bearings you will need to remove your current hubs. Once you remove the hubs, you can remove the current bearings and look on the face of both the inner and outer bearing for a number printed on it. If you give me those numbers, I can help you get the replacements you need that may or may not have the same number. If you can't get a number off the bearings, then you will need to take a digital caliper # PTW80157 and measure the spindles. The spindles will need to...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Bearing Kit Recommendation for a Dexter 6k Axle
    You will need to pull off your current hubs to remove the bearings and seal to get the numbers so that we can determine for sure what you would need. But MOST likely the correct kit you would need would be the part # BK3-100. This kit comes with outer bearing # 15123 and inner bearing # 25580 and seal 10-36 # RG06-070. This is the most common bearings and seals used on 6k Dexter axles, but you need to verify your bearing and seal numbers to be certain.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing Seal for a National 442109 Single Lip Seal
    The replacement seal we have for a National 442109 is part # GS-2250DL. It is a double lip seal. For a pair of seals, you can use part # RG06-070.
    view full answer...
  • Does the Seal in Bearing Kit # BK3-100 Have a Double Lip
    Yes, the seal in Bearing Kit, # BK3-100, does have a double lip. This is a 10-36 seal, part # RG06-070. It is designed for marine and oil bath applications. It has an inner diameter of 2.250 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for Dexter 6,000 Pound Axle
    I spoke with my contact at Dexter regarding the axle on your trailer. This is a 6,000 pound axle that uses inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 15123. For a complete bearing kit, you can use # BK3-100. This will include the correct inner and outer bearing as well as the 2.25 inch inner diameter grease seal and cotter pin. I have attached a short video review of this kit so you can see everything that is included.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Bearing Seal Kit For 2000 Four Winns Trailer
    The 10-36 seal that is included in the # BK3-100 kit will work great on your trailer. This kit comes with the inner bearing and race, outer bearing and race, grease seal and a cotter pin.
    view full answer...
  • Wheel Bearings for 6,000 lb Trailer Axle
    The bearings we offer are from TruRyde, and the most typical bearings for a 6,000 lb axle are # 25580 for the inner bearing and # 15123 for the outer bearing. These also come in a kit depending on the inner diameter of your grease seal; the Bearing Kit # BK3-100 comes with these bearings, their races and a grease seal with a 2.250" inner diameter. Bearing Kit # BK3-110 has the bearings and races with a grease seal that has a 2.125" inner diameter. I have added a link to a help article...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for Four Winns Single-Axle Boat Trailer
    Trailer makers don't often maintain records of the small parts like bearings that are used in their trailers (even when you can tell them its VIN) so the way to know for certain what replacement parts you need is to pull one of the hubs, remove its bearings and check them for part numbers. The linked photo shows the typical appearance and location of bearing, race and seal part numbers. It also indicates the points on the spindle that where you will need to take precise measurements...
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for 6k Lippert Trailer Axles
    We have two bearing kits that would possible work for a Lippert 6k axle. The part # BK3-100 has bearings 15123 and 25580 plus seal 10-36. This would be the kit for if your spindle has a bearing surface that is 2.250 inches. If instead your seal surface is 2.125 inches you would need the part # BK3-110. We don't carry Timken bearings which aren't commonly seen on trailer hubs.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing and Seal Kit Recommendation for Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR526D
    The bearing kit you would need for the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR526D that you referenced is the part # BK3-110.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit Availability for a Hub with Outer Bearing of 15123
    Most likely you would need either the part # BK3-100 or the # BK3-110. Both of these kits use the 15123 as an outer bearing and a 25580 as an inner bearing. Here's what you will need to do to determine which kit would potentially fit. Measure your spindle where the inner bearing and grease seal ride. The bearing area diameter should be 1.750 and if the grease seal area is 2.250 then you would want the part # BK3-100 or if it is 2.125 you would want the part # BK3-110.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Bearing Kit to Replace a 15123 Outer bearing, 25580 Inner Bearing and 2.125 Inch Seal
    Based on the seal measurement, it sounds as if the best fit is going to be the Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings,10-10 Seal, # BK3-110. The seal that is included in this bearing kit measures 2.125 (2-1/8) inches. The inner and outer bearing numbers remain the same as the BK3-100 kit you have referenced. You want to be certain to get the correct kit to avoid potential problems down the road. I recommend taking a look at the other set of bearings/seals on the other hub to double check,...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Wheel Bearings, Races and Seals for a 2010 Jerry James Flat Bed Trailer
    To determine the correct parts for your 2010 flat bed Jerry James double-axle trailer with electric brakes, you will have to remove the hub from the trailer and either get part numbers from the inner and outer bearing, and grease seal or measure the spindle in 3 places and the hub in two places. I have included a photo showing the places to look for part numbers and places to measure. If the part numbers are not visible on your bearings and seal a dial or digital caliper will be needed...
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  • Bearing Kit with 15123 and 25580 Bearings for a 2006 Four Winns Boat Trailer
    There are a couple of options that having bearings 15123 and 25580 (the other numbers are the associated races). We have # BK3-100 which includes seal 10-36 which has an inner diameter of 2.250 Inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches. And we have # BK3-110 which comes with a tang washer and seal GS-2125DL which has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches. I have linked videos of both sets for you so you can see all of the included parts.
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  • Which Seal Goes with a Trailer Hub that Takes 15123 and 25580 Bearings
    The only way to know for sure which seal you need is to measure the inner diameter with a set of dial or digital caliper. The issue is, which you may have already determined, is that the inner and outer bearing numbers that you have are associated with hubs that will either take seal # RG06-070 with inner diameter of 2.25 inches or seal # RG06-090 which has a 2.125 inch inner diameter. You can also measure the spindle where the seal goes using the calipers. measuring the spindle will...
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal for a Seal Number 512136-4
    Given the bearing numbers that you have, you will need 1 of 2 possible seals. You will either need 10-10 seals # RG06-090 or 10-36 seals # RG06-070. The difference is the dimensions. The 10-10 seals # RG06-090 have an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches. The 10-36 seals # RG06-070 have an inner diameter of 2.250 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches. The inner diameter is the key. If you measure the inner diameter of an existing seal or the spindle...
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  • How To Determine The Correct Bearings, Races, and Seals For 12 x 2 Drum on 5,200-Lb Axle
    To determine the correct parts for your 12 x 2 drum on a 5,200-lb axle, you will have to remove the hub from the trailer and either get part numbers from the inner and outer bearing, and grease seal or measure the spindle in 3 places and the hub in two places. I have included a photo showing the places to look for part numbers and places to measure if part numbers are not visible on your bearings and seal. If you need to measure, a dial or digital caliper will be needed to get accurate...
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  • Availability of Bearing Kit with Bearings 25580 and 15123
    Are you positive that the bearing number you have is 15126? That is not a standard bearing number and based on the other bearing you have it sounds like you would need the part # BK3-100. If the inner diameter of the 15126 is 1.250 and the matching race is number 15245 then you do have the 15123 and the # BK3-100 would be the correct kit.
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  • Valve Stem with Higher PSI Rating for Going with Higher Rated Tire on Trailer Wheel
    All you'd need to do is make sure you are using higher capacity valve stems in the wheels like the # AM20906 which is rated for over 100 psi and fits the two common valve stem holes of .453 and .625 inch.
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  • Wheel Bearings, Grease Seals and Electric Drum Brakes for 2002 Fleetwood Pride 5th Wheel Trailer
    We can help you with replacement bearings, grease seals and electric drum brakes for the 6K axles on your 2002 Fleetwood Pride fifth wheel camping trailer. The best value in a pair of self-adjusting 12 x 2-inch electric drum brakes that will work great on your axles comes from Axle Teknology kit # AKEBRK-7-SA. You will need two kits to have four new brakes, two left-hand and two right-hand. These have the common 5-bolt mounting pattern. When you wire them you can use either wire for...
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  • Replacement Trailer Brakes, Bearings, and Seals for Dexter 6K Trailer Axles
    We do have brakes for the 6,000 pound Dexter axle on your 2013 Open Range Roamer. That size takes 12" x 2" brakes. For a set of self-adjusting brakes in this size I recommend # AKEBRK-7-SA. The bearing kit for the 6k Dexter axles will be either # BK3-100 or # BK3-110. There are a couple of differences between these two sets. Set # BK3-100 includes a cotter pin and a 10-36 seal which has an inner diameter of 2.250 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches. Set # BK3-110 includes...
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  • Will the Bearing Races be Installed in the Kodiak 12 Inch Hub and Rotor Assembly
    The bearing races will be installed on the Kodiak Hub and Rotor Assembly, # KHR12D. The bearings for the hub are # 25580 for the inner and # 15123 for the outer. We offer a Bearing Kit, # BK3-100, that includes both bearings # 25580 and # 15123, but also the grease seal 10-36 with an inside diameter of 2.25 inches.
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  • Timbren Axle-Less Suspension System Compatible with Jeep for Matching Trailer
    For the Timbren Axle-Less kit compatible with the bolt pattern of 5 on 5 like a Jeep, you would need the 2,200 lb capacity # ASR1THDS03. The spindles on the Timbren system are a little larger than their thru-axle counterparts, so the 3,500 lbs # ASR3500S06 will only fit larger hubs that won't have the bolt pattern you seek. Using # ASR1THDS03, you can then use the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 3,500-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 5 on 5 # AKIHUB-550-35-EZ-K or the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly...
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  • Recommended Disc Brake Conversion for 7,000 lb Dexter Axles
    On your 2018 Montana 3791 RD, with Dexter 7K axles, we do have the parts but not in a kit for axles that large. I recommend the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 7,000 lbs # K2HR712D along with Bearing Kit # BK3-100. I recommend using grease # L11390 and cap # F001520 instead of doing the oil bath simply because if a seal fails you can melt your bearings and cause more issues than what grease would allow. Then for the electrical aspects, I recommend the HydraStar Electric-Hydraulic...
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  • Recommended Parts For Adding Disc Brakes To Tandem Trailer With 6,000-lb Axles
    We have all the parts you need but they do not alll come in one kit. I will make some recommendations that will work for your 6,000-lb axles. First, you can use the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit, part # K2HR526D. This includes the hub and rotors for one axle. You will also need a bearing kit, part # BK3-100 for each wheel. Since the lug nuts, part # CE11051 are not included, you can purchase them separately. For a grease cap you can use part # F001520. For a 24-ft long brake line kit...
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  • Bearing and Seal Recommendation for a 6k Dexter Axle
    You will need to pull off your current hubs to remove the bearings and seal to get the numbers so that we can determine for sure what you would need. But MOST likely the correct kit you would need would be the part # BK3-100. This kit comes with outer bearing # 15123 and inner bearing # 25580 and seal 10-36 # RG06-070. This is the most common bearings and seals used on 6k Dexter axles, but you need to verify your bearing and seal numbers to be certain.
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  • How to Measure Grease Seal's Inner Diameter
    The Replacement Inner Trailer Hub Bearing for 15123 is item # 15123. It has a inner diameterof 1.250. The matching race is # 15245. Since your other bearing measures 1.750" it is a match with, Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 Item # 25580. The matching race is # 25520. The above bearings and races are included in bearing kits # BK3-100 and # BK3-110. You will need to measure on your spindle where the seal sits for its inner diameter location, that is marked "B" on the...
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