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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Item # LM67048
Our Price: $4.55
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Orders above $50 qualify for Free Shipping
Shipping Weight: 0.26 lbs
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 part number LM67048 can be ordered online at or call 1-833-496-1390 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM67048

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 5000 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing LM67048
  • etrailer
  • Race LM67010

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): LM67010
  • Application: outer bearing for 8-201-5 and 8-213-5 hubs
    • Equivalent to Dexter part 031-032-02

LM67048 Replacement Bearing

Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 - LM67048

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (147 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


This rating is for the packaging only, shipped very poorly with no protection. four sets of bearings thrown in a box,
Had to return. (photo enclosed).


product is great -- shipping/packaging could be better. Considering this is a wear item that gets replaced if there are surface defects that my create heat/friction, I don't see why these are just thrown in a box with a bit of paper, rather than wrapped in bubble-plastic or some other protective medium. other reviews have cited this, but apparently nothing has changed...


I replaced the bearings on my 5th wheel with these bearings, they fit as expected. After 7000 miles they are holding up well.


again etrailer always responsive to any questions or concerns just wish the bearings were made in USA. Not etrailer's fault


All parts ordered to replace a complete brake system on a 25-year-old boat trailer fit perfectly. Ashly from etrailer was very knowledgeable regarding are needs. Thank you!


Already cracking after six months.


Fit fine as expected


great service


very poorly packed


Just like the bearing Company for a lower price


I have a boat trailer that requires wheel bearings and seals periodically. It is 20 years old but I easily found replacements at I bookmarked the parts so I can get them easily next time. Noticed that the original bearings were made in England, the recent ones are made in China and are of equivalent excellent quality. Delivery was prompt, packing very good.
Good retailer.


As described and what I expected.


Michelle ...I appreciate the expertise that you used in putting together a wheel/bearing package. Everything was fine ,delivery was speedy ...2 days
The packing person really made a mess. The hub assemblies were allowed to come out of their poorly packed box. The hubs bent one of the bearings and 2 seals. The bearings and seals were in an unprotected plastic bag...not in a protection box...
Fortunately, I called and the damaged parts were sent to me,quickly I might add. I hope you can review the packing process ,and solve this issue


I needed new bearings and seals
for a 1980 travel trailer wherein the axle, hubs and bearings had no markings. Diana (CSR) helped me work through through the options and was able to identify the correct parts. The bearings and seals came in and were a perfect fit. Everything was on time and intact. Very happy with my first etrailer buy.


PROS: The parts came in on time.
Three of the four inner bearings were the wrong size. I went to O'reillys to get the correct bearings for the job. I use the trailer for work and couldn't wait for etrailer to send me the right bearings. I am currently waiting for a shipping label to send back the wrong bearings for a refund.

Ill have one of our customer service folks contact you in order to handle this. I apologize for the inconvenience.
-- Etrailer Expert Mike L - 01/29/2018


I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!!

Thanks Kayla!!!


I got what I needed at a good price and received in a timely manner .


Direct replacement, good price, easy to order and arrived earlier than stated.


Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend


Perfect fit for my Q633 hub. The associated grease seal was an SL150 which was difficult to find but the etrailer rep tracked it down and now my trailer is FINALLY back up and running! All my future business will go to


The first time experience with Etrailer has been good on stock availability. Delivery was met. Overall the communication with Etrailer was excellent. The install videos on the items were very useful. I definitely will look at Etrailer first for any future needs.


Item as described. I have never replaced wheel bearings/seals, I always had someone else do it. This time I tried it on my own, and the parts I ordered/received fit as expected and all is well.

thank you etrailer!


Removed trailer outer bearing to find a scored "race". Customer Service, extremely helpful and patient in trying to match up a few visible number on the old bearing and race to list of available options in etrailer's stock. Part was a perfect match, pressed in race. assembled hub and wheel, and back in business.


PROS: The package came in on time.
Three of the four inner bearings were wrong. I went to O'reillys to get the correct parts. I cannot wait for etrailer to send me the right ones since I use this trailer for work. I am currently waiting for the shipping label to send back the wrong bearings and get refunded.


etrailer and their customer service are the best i've seen, always there to talk you through the process to help ensure you're buying the right part and answer any questions. Great company!

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Trailer Hub that Uses Bearing # LM67048 for Inner and Outer
    We don't carry any hubs at this time that use bearing # LM67048 for both the inner and outer bearings. We do have some that use # LM67048 as the outer bearing and two that do as the inner bearing. I've linked the selections for you. If you have a different inner or outer bearing than # LM67048 let me know that number and I'll see if we have a hub that works for you.
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  • Picking Out Replacement Bearings and Seals for Hub of 2011 Jayco 19RD
    To pick out bearings/seal for a trailer hub you will need to remove one of the hubs so that you can remove the bearings and get the numbers off of them. Or, you can measure the spindle where the bearings/seal ride so that we can pick you out the correct bearings that would fit the spindle. We can ship to Canada.
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  • Info Needed to Pick Out Bearings and Seal for Trailer Hub
    To pick out bearings/seal for a trailer hub you will need to remove one of the hubs so that you can remove the bearings and get the numbers off of them. Or, you can measure the spindle where the bearings/seal ride so that we can pick you out the correct bearings that would fit the spindle. For the seal we need to know the outer diameter of the spindle where the seal rides and the inner diameter of the hub where the seal fits.
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  • Bearing Kit Required for 1996 EasyLoader Trailer
    Trailer makers do not maintain detailed specs on the smaller items like bearings that are used when fabricating their trailers so the best way to find the correct bearing kit for your 1996 EZ-Loader trailer is to pull one of the hubs and remove its bearings. If you refer to the linked photo you will see the typical placement and appearance of these parts numbers. If you know the trailer's axle weight rating (often on the main I.D. sticker or identified on the axle itself) you can narrow...
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  • How to Pick Out Bearings for Harbor Freight Trailer
    I really wish there was a way to determine what bearings a trailer needed without actually pulling the wheel off and checking, but there isn't. The only two solutions I have for you would be to remove the hubs and get the numbers that are stamped on the bearing or for you to remove the hubs and use a digital or dial caliper to measure where the bearings and seal ride (see pic). With that info I can help you figure out what you need.
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Grease Seal for Trailer Hub
    Overfilling Bearing Buddies is a very common reason for a trailer hub seal to blow. Most likely that is what happened. Based on the bearings you said your current hub has you do not have what we would consider a standard hub. You can still find the correct replacement seal though. To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current seal...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Bearings for 2007 Suntracker
    I really wish there was a way to determine what bearings a trailer needed without actually pulling the wheel off and checking, but there isn't. The only two solution I have for you would be to remove the hubs and get the numbers that are stamped on the bearing or for you to remove the hubs and use a digital or dial caliper to measure where the bearings and seal ride (see pic). With that info I can help you figure out what you need.
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  • How to Pick Out Trailer Bearings for a 1986 Boat Trailer
    To pick out bearings for a trailer hub you will need to remove one of the hubs so that you can remove the bearings and get the numbers off of them. Or, you can measure the spindle where the bearings ride so that we can pick you out the correct bearings that would fit the spindle.
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  • How to Replace Trailer Bearings and How to Pick Them Out
    The bearings and seals of a trailer hub are separate parts from the hub that you will need to individually remove to replace. If you check out the video I attached you can see exactly how to remove and replace bearings and seals. The best way to find the correct replacement bearings is to get the numbers stamped onto the metal of the inner and outer bearings that are currently on the trailer. With those you will be able to find the correct replacement bearings, races, and seals. Another...
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  • Availability of Replacement Wheel Bearing Races Compatible w/ LM67048 Wheel Bearings
    If the races are the only problem with the hubs, you can use a brass punch to pound out the races and install new ones. The proper race would be # LM67010. None of the hubs we offer would use the LM67048 as the inner and outer bearing. The LM67048 is usually used as an outer bearing on a 5200, 6000 or 7000 lb capacity axle. The trailer you have could be very old, or sometimes folks will rebuild trailers using automotive axles. A hub that uses the bearing set-up you describe isn't common...
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  • Picking Out Trailer Hub Bearings for 6 Lug Agricultural Hub
    The bearing numbers you mentioned do check out as what you'd need with the part # LM67048 for the outer bearing and part # LM48548 for the inner. Now the grease seal dimensions don't quite add up though. Are you sure the inner diameter of the seal or the diameter of the spindle where the seal rides is 1.06 inches in diameter? Normally the seal surface is bigger than the bearing surfaces.
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  • Can Two Different Hubs that Use the Different Bearings Be Used on Same Trailer Axle
    The # LM67048 and the # 15123 both have the same inner diameter of 1.250 inches. So in theory they would both work on the same spindle. It sounds like you are thinking about using two different hubs on your trailer axle. As long as the hubs both use bearings and seals that fit the spindle they are used on you would be fine.
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  • What is My Axle Weight Capacity With Inner Bearing # 25580 and Outer Bearing # LM67048
    It looks like your trailer's axle rating with an inner wheel bearing # 25580 and an outer bearing # LM67048 is 5,200 lbs. If you have 3 of these axles, then your capacity will be 15,600 lbs. You can measure your current equalizer so you can find the correct replacement. I have attached a picture that shows what aspects of your current equalizer needs to be measured. Once you have these measurements you will be able to review the link of all the suspension kits we carry to find the kit...
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  • Recommended Double Lip Axle Seal For A Lippert 4,400 Pound Axle
    Lippert 4,400 pound axles will be very similar to 3,500 pound axles, but will use a different outer bearing ( # LM67048). However, they will use the exact same seal, so you will want the Grease Seal - Double Lip - ID 1.719" / OD 2.565" # 58846. This will be a direct replacement.
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  • What Bearings Does a Dexter 5,200 lb Trailer Axle Use
    A Dexter 5,200 lb trailer axle would have an inner bearing of # 25580 and an outer bearing of # LM67048.
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  • Recommendation For Replacement Grease Seals That Fit Bearing LM67048 And Bearing LM11949
    Based on your information, I recommend replacement grease seal, Item # 168233. This fits your bearings, Item # LM67048 and Item # LM11949. You will only need one seal per hub.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for a Trailer LM11949 and LM67048
    We have one bearing that has an inner diameter of .75 inch. For that you would want the part # LM11949. This bearing is typically only seen on agricultural hubs though. The inner bearing you need is part # LM67048. The closest seal we have to the dimensions you listed is the part # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Bearing Availability with Inner Diameter of .75 inch and 1.25 inch
    The fact your outer bearing fits on a .75 diameter spindle means we aren't going to have a standard bearing kit to fit since that's not a standard dimension. Can you get me the C dimension as well? It could be that you need the part # LM67048 with a race # LM67010 which has an inner diameter of 1.25 and # LM11949 with race # LM11910 which has inner diameter of .75 inch.
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for Older Trailer
    Thank you for providing the original bearing and seal numbers from your old trailer. These part reference numbers are often the best method for finding replacements, although especially with older trailers often alternate parts may have found their way into the trailer during its lifetime. We do have the bearings # LM67048 and # LM11949 as well as their matching races, parts # LM67010 and # LM11910. Please note that both of these bearings have an application as an OUTER bearing. The part...
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  • Availability of Hub Assembly for a 12 inch Wheel with a 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern
    We do have a hub that is compatible with a 12 inch wheel and has a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern. The Titan Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,500-lb Axles # T1721400042 does have the outer bearing # LM11949 which has the 0.750 measurement that you took but you will want to make sure that the inner bearing # LM67048 fits (inner diameter is 1.250 inches) and the grease seal inner diameter of 1.688 inches is compatible with your spindle. If you check out the photo I attached you can look at...
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  • Trailer Hub That Uses Bearings LM11949 and LM67048
    Both replacement trailer brakes and hub/drums should be selected based on the axle weight rating. The best way to select replacement hub/drums is to pull one of the hubs and remove its inner and outer bearings to obtain their part numbers. This is the easiest method to find a compatible hub. When not available measurements can be used but these need to be very precise, to the nearest thousandth of an inch, such as 1.234-inches. We do carry one bearing with an inside diameter of 0.75-inches,...
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  • Availability of Bearing Race to Match Bearing Number LM67048
    The matching race for the bearing part # LM67048 that you referenced is the part # LM67010. This has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The race we have that has an outer diameter of 2.441 inch is the part # 15245 which is designed for the bearing # 15123. The # 15123 happens to have an inner diameter of 1.25 inch like the # LM67048 that you mentioned as well.
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  • Dico 15638 Replacement Trailer Hub Recommendation
    We have the Titan hub part # T1721400042 which will work for you. It has the bearing numbers # LM67048 and # LM11949 that you have and comes with a grease seal. This hub is not pre-assembled though. We don't have a version that is pre-assembled.
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  • Replacement Hub with LM67048 Inner Bearing and LM11949 Outer Bearing
    Based on the inner and outer bearing numbers you provided (thank you!) the correct trailer hub assembly for your utility trailer is the Titan # T1721400042. This hub does use the same # LM67048 inner bearing and # LM11949 as your existing assemblies. It is designed for 2,500 pound axles. The bearings, races, and grease seal are included. I wasn't able to pinpoint the dimensions on your current grease seal based on the part number you gave. The seal included with this particular hub has...
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