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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Item # LM67048
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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LM67048 - Race LM67010 etrailer Bearings
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 part number LM67048 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM67048

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 5000 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing LM67048
  • Race LM67010

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): LM67010
  • Application: outer bearing for 8-201-5 and 8-213-5 hubs


LM67048 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 - LM67048

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (78 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- LM67048
by:

etrailer and their customer service are the best i've seen, always there to talk you through the process to help ensure you're buying the right part and answer any questions. Great company! 486983



- LM67048
by:

I have a boat trailer that requires wheel bearings and seals periodically. It is 20 years old but I easily found replacements at etrailer.com. I bookmarked the parts so I can get them easily next time. Noticed that the original bearings were made in England, the recent ones are made in China and are of equivalent excellent quality. Delivery was prompt, packing very good. Good retailer. 306950



- LM67048
by:

Great products and fast service. I ordered the bearings, race and seals. I ordered the wrong seals so haven't been able to complete. I must have misread something. 418819



- LM67048
by:

as with the past product, good valve along with fast shipping 557081



- LM67048
by:

I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!! Thanks Kayla!!! 499773



- Lm67048
by:

PROS: The parts came in on time. CONS: Three of the four inner bearings were the wrong size. I went to O'reillys to get the correct bearings for the job. I use the trailer for work and couldn't wait for etrailer to send me the right bearings. I am currently waiting for a shipping label to send back the wrong bearings for a refund. 470868


Comments
Ill have one of our customer service folks contact you in order to handle this. I apologize for the inconvenience.
-- Mike L - 01/29/2018

33898

- LM67048
by:

Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend 738069



- LM67048
by:

good bearings I use them in off road highly abused environment and replace annually as preventative maintenance have never had one fail 713367



- LM67048
by:

I like this company. Parts fit. Good qu ality 713222



- LM67048
by:

Perfect fit good price. 706063



- LM67048
by:

The first time experience with Etrailer has been good on stock availability. Delivery was met. Overall the communication with Etrailer was excellent. The install videos on the items were very useful. I definitely will look at Etrailer first for any future needs. 692430



- LM67048
by:

Great product and fast shipping. Will be ordering more soon. 680846



- LM67048
by:

Perfect fit! 639073



- LM67048
by:

Fit and price right 597699



- LM67048
by:

Excellent 571018



- LM67048
by:

I used this to replace a bearing on my Hudson HBC10 equipment trailer. The fit matches the old bearing and it's held up fine one year later. 558240



- LM67048
by:

Good products, great prices, comunication was good also, I would recommend them anytime, after being a ASE master since ase came on the scene, its refreshing to deal with professionals. . Thanks. 554071



- LM67048
by:

The bearings,races,and remainder of this order was perfect. However the seals were the wrong size, I sent them back for credit. 552883



- LM67048
by:

Bearings came as they should be. Great communication. 552856



- LM67048
by:

So, I needed new bearings and seals for a 1980 travel trailer wherein the axle, hubs and bearings had no markings. Diana (CSR) helped me work through through the options and was able to identify the correct parts. The bearings and seals came in and were a perfect fit. Everything was on time and intact. Very happy with my first etrailer buy. 518261



- LM67048
by:

Fit the application perfectly. 513756


Comments
working great, fit perfect, no issues.
Marvin - 06/02/2019

56024

- LM67048
by:

Perfect fit for my Q633 hub. The associated grease seal was an SL150 which was difficult to find but the etrailer rep tracked it down and now my trailer is FINALLY back up and running! All my future business will go to etrailer.com. 492463



- LM67048
by:

The parts excatly matched the descript ion 482438



- LM67048
by:

great bearing 473430



- LM67048
by:

PROS: The package came in on time. CONS: Three of the four inner bearings were wrong. I went to O'reillys to get the correct parts. I cannot wait for etrailer to send me the right ones since I use this trailer for work. I am currently waiting for the shipping label to send back the wrong bearings and get refunded. 470871


25
78
Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Trailer Bearings and Seals for 4,400 Pound Dexter Axle
    You'll want to make sure your bearing numbers and dimensions match but for a Dexter 4,400 pound axle you should need inner bearing # L68149 which is 1.378 inches with race # L68111, and outer bearing # LM67048 that is 1.250 inches with race # LM67010. The seal is # RG06-050. If you need the entire hub assembly with a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern it's # 8-407-5UC3-EZ.
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  • Can Dexter 8-222 Hub be Replaced with 6 on 5-1/2 Inch Hub on Tandem 4 Ton Trailer
    I did some research on your Dexter 8-222 Hub and was able to find the inner and outer bearing numbers as well as the grease seal used. It looks like this particular hub was designed for mobile homes and these, for the most part, have more unique bearings and bolt patterns because they are technically manufactured for one time use only and not meant to be altered or replaced. Because of this, there is unfortunately not a 6 on 5-1/2 inch hub available that will be compatible with your...
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  • Adding Brakes to Dexter 3,000 lb Trailer Axle
    The etrailer.com brake set part # AKEBRK-35-SA that you referenced is a fit for your Dexter 3,500 lb axle. You will need to replace your current hub with hub/drums but aside from that you'd have all the parts needed. For hub/drums you'd then need the part # 008-418-02 which will require bearings # LM67048, # L44649, and grease seal # 58846.
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  • Replacement Seals and Bearings for 4,400 lb Axle
    We have the bearings and seals you would need for your 4,400 lb axle. It would be inner bearing # L68149 with race # L68111, outer bearing # LM67048 with race # LM67010 and grease seal # RG06-050. You can find the prices of these parts on their product pages. I've added links of video reviews of these products for you to take a look at as well.
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  • Trailer Hub That Uses Bearings LM11949 and LM67048
    Both replacement trailer brakes and hub/drums should be selected based on the axle weight rating. The best way to select replacement hub/drums is to pull one of the hubs and remove its inner and outer bearings to obtain their part numbers. This is the easiest method to find a compatible hub. When not available measurements can be used but these need to be very precise, to the nearest thousandth of an inch, such as 1.234-inches. We do carry one bearing with an inside diameter of 0.75-inches,...
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  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter 8-222 Hub
    I looked up your Dexter 8-222 Hub and was able to find the inner and outer bearing numbers as well as the grease seal used. It looks like this particular hub was designed for mobile homes and these, for the most part, have more unique bearings and bolt patterns because they are technically manufactured for one time use only and not meant to be altered or replaced. Because of this, there is unfortunately not a 6 on 5-1/2 inch hub available that will be compatible with your trailer's...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement hub Parts for 3,000 lb Dexter Axle With Bearings LM67048 and L44649
    There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. Obviously, you will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649.
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  • Trailer Idler Hub That Uses a LM67048 Bearing and Has a 5 on 4-1/2 Inch Bolt Pattern
    The LM67000LA is a Timken part number for a bearing cone with a 1.250" I.D. and a 2.328" O.D. This is the same as our bearing part # LM67048. The LM67010 is a Timken part number for a race with a 2.328" O.D. that matches our part # LM67010. The only trailer hub we have that uses this bearing/race and has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern is the Trailer Hub Assembly part # T1721400042. This hub uses a LM67048 inner bearing (1.250") and a LM11949 outer bearing (.750"). Unfortunately, we do not...
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  • Replacing Electric Brakes and Grease Seals on Dexter 4400-lb Axle
    Trailer axles with EZ-Lube spindles like # R20384EZ or Bearing Buddy grease caps like # BB1980A-SS do certainly make it a lot easier ensure your hubs are adequately greased, but like many before you (and many that will inevitably follow) you have found out that this feature also makes it easy to accidentally over-fill your hubs with too much grease which can result in blown out grease seals and also contaminated brakes. We can help you with both new seals for your hubs and new electric...
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  • Replacement Hubs For Trailer With 3/4 Inch Outer Diameter Spindle That Is Straight
    The only hub we have that is currently available for a 3/4 inch spindle is Item # AH15450ECOMP. This is an agricultural hub that fits 3,000 lbs axles for 4 on 5 inch bolt pattern. It takes an inner bearing, Item # LM67048, and outer bearing, Item # LM11949. It is meant to be used for low speed (less than 20 mph) agricultural applications. It is designed for a spindle like Item # AS1500E. If you can find the actual bearing number on your old bearings and seal or can send me a bearing...
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  • MEASUREMENT FROM RACE TO RACE ON AGRICULTURAL HUB T1721400042
    It sounds like you've got an unusual hub. I was able to find a Spindle Grease Seal Set for # LM67048 Inner Bearing and 2.33 Bearing Buddy, part # BB60008. This grease seal has an inner diameter of 1.875 and an outer diameter of 2.33, which sounds like the size you need. I did some measurements for you and found that the measurement from the inside of the inner race to the inside of the outer race is 2-1/4". The measurement from the outside of the inner race to the outside of the outer...
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  • Replacement Hubs With Bearings 25580 and LM67048 and Brakes Which Fit
    To replace your idler hubs with a hub and drum for electric brakes, what you can do is use Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-201-5UC3 and replace its grease seal with # GS-2250DL, which has the same outer diameter as your current seal so it will work for you. This hub has a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern so finding wheels to fit should be no problem. The idler hub assembly would be # 8-213-5UC1. The hub and drum takes 12" brake assemblies, and the electric brakes that will work are #...
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  • Recommendation For Hub And Drum With Outer Bearing LM67048
    Based on your information, it sounds like you have either a 4,400-lb or 5,200-lb trailer axle. Both can have an outer bearing like Item # LM67048 but the inner bearing and hubs will be different. For a 4,400-lb axle, the inner bearing will be like Item # L68149 and for a 5,200-lb axle it will be like Item # 25580. I do not know the bolt pattern of your wheels but the most common pattern is 6 on 5-1/2. I have also attached an article on "how to measure bolt patterns" in case you need...
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  • Replacement Hubs and Electric Brakes for 5,200 Pound Axle on Trailer
    The Trailer Hub Bearing # 15123 and # LM67048 both feature the same 1.250 inch inner diameter, however the outer diameter differs between the two units. This essentially means they will both fit the same spindle size on a trailer, but they will work with different hubs. To replace the hubs on your trailer that use the # 15123 outer bearing, I recommend the etrailer.com Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-6-K. This hub and drum assembly is designed for 5,200 pound axles, features...
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  • Hubs and Electric Brakes for 2011 Keystone Springdale 179QBWE Travel Trailer
    Thanks for that info and honestly, you did most of the work yourself so you made this easy and it really is appreciated. The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum for 3,000-lb Axles # 008-418-02 is exactly what you need to replace your Dexter 8-418 and though there is not a kit for this specific hub I will list everything you need for each hub: Inner bearing # LM67048, Outer bearing # L44649, Grease Seal # 58846. You do not actually need to order the accompanying races because they do come with...
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  • Bearings and Seal for Replacing UFP Dexter 41062 Hub with Kodiak Hub and Rotor
    I spoke with my contact at UFP Dexter and he said that your 41062 hub uses inner bearing 031-030-02, outer bearing 031-032-02, and seal 010-181-00. This is the equivalent of inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # LM67048, and grease seal # GS-2125DL which can all be found in the bearing kit # BK3-310 along with the races for the bearings. Unfortunately the bearing kit # DBRKHW85G that you purchased isn't the same as the grease seal has a slightly larger diameter but that can easily be fixed....
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  • Bearing Kit for Lippert 5200-lb Axle 121066
    Your 5200-lb Lippert axle 121066 uses inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # LM67048 and grease seal # GS-2250DL. For all of these you can use kit # BK3-300. I also recommend bearing packer tool # ALL647646 for a cleaner method of packing the new bearings with high-temperature bearing grease such as # L11380. Often a block of wood along with a rubber mallet are handy when installing a new seal into the rear bore of your hub. These items allow you to install the seal with less risk...
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  • Bearings and Seal Recommendation for Dexter 3,000 lb Axle
    Thanks for the picture of the tag on your Dexter trailer axle. From that I can tell you have a 3,000 lb Dexter axle. There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. You will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649. For replacement brake assemblies you'd...
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  • Replacement 6 Bolt Agricultural Hub for 1978 John Deer Implement Trailer
    Given the bearing numbers and the fact that it's a 6 bolt hub, you're needing the Dexter # 42660UC1 Agricultural hub. The bearings, races and seals are sold separately. You'll need the # 25580 inner bearing, the # LM67048 outer bearing, the # 25520 inner race and the # LM67010 outer race. The grease seal we carry that cross-references to the SKF 21352 is part # GS-2125DL. This hub is typically used with the # GS-2250DL grease seal, so I'd recommend you use a digital caliper on the surface...
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  • Trailer Bearing Availability with Inner Diameter of .75 inch and 1.25 inch
    The fact your outer bearing fits on a .75 diameter spindle means we aren't going to have a standard bearing kit to fit since that's not a standard dimension. Can you get me the C dimension as well? It could be that you need the part # LM67048 with a race # LM67010 which has an inner diameter of 1.25 and # LM11949 with race # LM11910 which has inner diameter of .75 inch.
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  • Replacement Hub Needed for Boat Trailer with 5 on 4-1/2 inch Bolt Pattern and LM67048 Bearing
    To determine what replacement hub will fit your spindle you will need the part number of your Inner Bearing, Outer Bearing, and Grease Seal. If you cannot find the part numbers then you can use a Digital Caliper # PTW80157 and measure parts B, C, and D of your spindle from the attached picture. You will want to measure them to the 3rd decimal place, like 0.725. Currently the only hub that we have to offer which has a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern and uses the # LM67048 bearing is the...
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  • Titan Replacement for Dico Trailer Idler Hub 17214
    Dico was bought out by Titan who now offers 5-on 4-1/2 idler hub # T1721400042. This hub is rated for 2500-lb axles and includes bearings, races, grease seal, grease cap, and lug nuts. You can be assured it will fit the trailer spindle as long as the original hub uses the same bearings, inner bearing # LM67048 and outer bearing # LM11949. This Titan hub's included grease seal has an inner diameter of 1.54-inches and an outer diameter of 1.78-inches. Please click on the video link to see...
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  • Bearing Kit with LM67048 and L44649 Bearings
    I do have all of the parts you need but we do not offer an all inclusive bearing kit with them. Instead, you will need to purchase each separately using the list I have attached for you below. Inner Bearing - part # LM67048 Inner Race - part # LM67010 Outer Bearing - part # L44649 Outer Race - part # L44610 Grease Seal - part # 10-42 Tang Washer - part # 5-101
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  • What is the Difference Between 1.25 Inch Trailer Bearings
    The short answer is Yes, bearing # 15123 is slightly larger and stronger than # LM67048 and they use different races which means they are not interchangeable. Bearing 15123 uses race # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches and bearing LM67048 uses race # LM67010 which has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The size and strength differences are due to the fact that bearing # 15123 is used in a higher weight capacity hub. Bearing # 15123 is the outer bearing for a hub for...
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  • Bearing Replacements for L68149 and LM67048
    We have the individual parts you need but not as a kit. You'd want the bearing part # LM67048 and # L68149. Since this is not a standard bearing combination I would need to know more info to pick out the seal. I'd need to know the diameter of your spindle where the seal rides as well as the diameter of the hub where the seal installs.
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  • Available Trailer Hubs That Use Inner Bearing 25580 and Outer Bearing LM67048
    Thank you for providing your trailer hub's bearing numbers. These are what is needed to select a replacement that will fit on your existing spindles. We actually have six different hubs that use your inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # LM67048. These include both idler type hubs like # 8-213-5UC1 and also hub/drums like # 8-201-5UC3-EZ. All displayed hubs that use these bearings are rated for either 5200-lb axles or 6000-lb axles. Most use the popular 6-on-5-1/2 wheel bolt pattern...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for 4400-lb Lippert Trailer Axle
    For a 4400-lb Lippert axle the most popular grease seal is part # 58846. This is a double-lip grease seal with an inside diameter of 1.719-inches and an outside diameter of 2.565-inches. This seal is often used along with inner wheel bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # LM67048.
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  • Bearings for a Dexter Trailer Hub 8-222
    I called Dexter Axle and they were able to inform me that your Dexter Trailer Hub 8-222 uses a part # L68149 inner bearing, part # L68111 inner race, part # LM67048 outer bearing, part # LM67010 outer race, and a part # 10-40 grease seal. Unfortunately, we don't have a bearing kit with all of these parts for you so they will need to be purchased separately.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
Patrick B
Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W

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