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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Item # LM67048
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Our Price: $6.25
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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LM67048 - Race LM67010 etrailer Bearings
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 part number LM67048 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM67048

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 5000 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing LM67048
  • Race LM67010

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): LM67010
  • Application: outer bearing for 8-201-5 and 8-213-5 hubs


LM67048 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 - LM67048

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (96 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- LM67048
by:

as with the past product, good valve along with fast shipping 557081



- LM67048
by: 10/30/2020

905921



- LM67048
by:

896798



- LM67048
by:

Just what I needed 887086



- LM67048
by:

877964



- LM67048
by:

872750



- LM67048
by:

Replacement part was perfect 863329



- LM67048
by:

Great part, great price 862067



- LM67048
by:

Good quality product. 858135



- LM67048
by:

Was shorted one bearing on my order but etrailer sent one out right away. 849360



- LM67048
by:

Competitive prices and lighting fast de livery! 849817



- LM67048
by:

Very helpful, everything was correct and fit perfectly. Will use again next week on horse trailer I just bought. Arrived a day early which helped me get it done on time for my trip to Arkansas. 849497



- LM67048
by:

Installed these bearings and races on my trailer after failure of the manufacture bearings failed because they saved money by not properly lubing at the factory. These have held up well putting on over 40,000 miles and proper lubrication. 807205



- LM67048
by:

Worked perfect 776453



- LM67048
by:

I ordered parts for a 1988 boat trailer. I want to say that all the parts ordered, the very timely delivery, and ESPECIALLY the customer service ( thank - you Amy !!! ) were Exceptional!! Will definitely do business with this company again.... 5 STARS !! 777479



- LM67048
by:

good quality product, no issues 775449



- LM67048
by:

All the parts are items we keep on hand for maintenance of our two large trailers. etrailer has by far the best prices and with free shipping it does not pay us to source the parts locally. 763784



- LM67048
by:

Great service! Brenden C did an excellent job of finding the right parts for my trailer and even upgraded the shipping at no extra cost. I highly recommend etrailer! 756081



- LM67048
by:

Customer service was awesome. 744459



- LM67048
by:

Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend 738069



- LM67048
by:

good bearings I use them in off road highly abused environment and replace annually as preventative maintenance have never had one fail 713367



- LM67048
by:

I like this company. Parts fit. Good qu ality 713222



- LM67048
by:

Perfect fit good price. 706063



- LM67048
by:

The first time experience with Etrailer has been good on stock availability. Delivery was met. Overall the communication with Etrailer was excellent. The install videos on the items were very useful. I definitely will look at Etrailer first for any future needs. 692430



- LM67048
by:

Great product and fast shipping. Will be ordering more soon. 680846


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement Grease Seal for 4400-lb Lippert Trailer Axle
    For a 4400-lb Lippert axle the most popular grease seal is part # 58846. This is a double-lip grease seal with an inside diameter of 1.719-inches and an outside diameter of 2.565-inches. This seal is often used along with inner wheel bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # LM67048.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Idler Hub That Uses a LM67048 Bearing and Has a 5 on 4-1/2 Inch Bolt Pattern
    The LM67000LA is a Timken part number for a bearing cone with a 1.250" I.D. and a 2.328" O.D. This is the same as our bearing part # LM67048. The LM67010 is a Timken part number for a race with a 2.328" O.D. that matches our part # LM67010. The only trailer hub we have that uses this bearing/race and has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern is the Trailer Hub Assembly part # T1721400042. This hub uses a LM67048 inner bearing (1.250") and a LM11949 outer bearing (.750"). Unfortunately, we do not...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Trailer Hub for Boat Trailer with LM67048 Bearing
    The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum for 3,000-lb Axles - 10" Diameter - 5 on 4-1/2 # 008-418-02 is the only fit we currently have with the # LM67048 bearing. If your boat trailer has drum brakes this will be a great fit. If it does not, then we don't currently have a compatible hub.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal and Bearings Recommendation for 5200 lb Lippert Axle
    The bearings your Lippert 5,200 lb axle has are part # LM67048 and # 25580 and the grease seal is # RG06-070. For a cotter pin you'd need just the # 165649.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit with LM67048 and L44649 Bearings
    I do have all of the parts you need but we do not offer an all inclusive bearing kit with them. Instead, you will need to purchase each separately using the list I have attached for you below. Inner Bearing - part # LM67048 Inner Race - part # LM67010 Outer Bearing - part # L44649 Outer Race - part # L44610 Grease Seal - part # 10-42 Tang Washer - part # 5-101
    view full answer...
  • Recommendation For Replacement Grease Seals That Fit Bearing LM67048 And Bearing LM11949
    Based on your information, I recommend replacement grease seal, Item # 168233. This fits your bearings, Item # LM67048 and Item # LM11949. You will only need one seal per hub.
    view full answer...
  • What Spindle is Needed for LM67048 Inner and LM11949 Outer Bearings
    The spindle we show for the # LM67048 inner and # LM11949 outer bearing is the # TRU54FR Agricultural Spindle. We do not list the distance between the inner and outer bearing so I cannot verify that dimension for you. You can order the spindle, item # TRU54FR, using the link below if you like.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hub that Uses Bearing # LM67048 for Inner and Outer
    We don't carry any hubs at this time that use bearing # LM67048 for both the inner and outer bearings. We do have some that use # LM67048 as the outer bearing and two that do as the inner bearing. I've linked the selections for you. If you have a different inner or outer bearing than # LM67048 let me know that number and I'll see if we have a hub that works for you.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Replacements for L68149 and LM67048
    We have the individual parts you need but not as a kit. You'd want the bearing part # LM67048 and # L68149. Since this is not a standard bearing combination I would need to know more info to pick out the seal. I'd need to know the diameter of your spindle where the seal rides as well as the diameter of the hub where the seal installs.
    view full answer...
  • Which Bearings, Races, and Seal Fit Dexter Hubs 8-283
    For the inner bearing you need # LM67048 and race # LM67010. The outer bearing is # L44649 and race # L44610. The seal is # 10-42.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement hub Parts for 3,000 lb Dexter Axle With Bearings LM67048 and L44649
    There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. Obviously, you will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing, Seals, and Races for ShoreLandr Boat Trailer
    Based on the measurements and bearing numbers you provided me. We have the individual parts you need. You'd want the bearing part # LM67048 and # L68149. Since the inner diameter of bearing # LM67048 is 1.250 inches and the inner diameter of bearing # L68149 is 1.378 inches. The matching race for bearing # LM67048 is # LM67010. And the matching race for bearing L68149 is # L68111. The seal you need is # RG06-050.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Bearing Availability with Inner Diameter of .75 inch and 1.25 inch
    The fact your outer bearing fits on a .75 diameter spindle means we aren't going to have a standard bearing kit to fit since that's not a standard dimension. Can you get me the C dimension as well? It could be that you need the part # LM67048 with a race # LM67010 which has an inner diameter of 1.25 and # LM11949 with race # LM11910 which has inner diameter of .75 inch.
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  • Replacement LM67048 Bearing for a Trailer Hub
    You have an interesting combination of bearings on your trailer hub. We carry the # LM67048 bearing, but the other bearing we don't so you would have to source it elsewhere. I searched the number online and was able to find a couple places that had it. For a seal I believe the # GS-2125DL would work since it is very close in dimensions to what you listed. The inner diameter is 2.125 so it is a tiny bit bigger than what you said you have. To verify that it will fit you will need to use...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hubs for Old Trailer That Uses Inner and Outer Bearing LM67048
    First, thank you for providing those important details about your trailer. Bearing part # LM67048 is a common OUTER bearing for 6- and 8-lug hubs, but as an INNER bearing we offer only one 4-on-5 agricultural hub that takes this item as its inner bearing. That hub is part # AH15450ECOMP. I presume that you got the bearing part numbers from the original parts. Given the trailer's age it may be that someone previously substituted a different bearing for what was originally installed....
    view full answer...
  • Do Brake Pads on Both Sides of a Trailer Axle with Disc Brakes Need to Be Replaced at the Same Time
    I would recommend you go with replacing the brake pads on the affected axle. Both sides of it, just like in a car how you do both sides at the same time. We currently have two sets of Kodiak brake pads for 3,500 lb setups. Part # K225CP or # K225CPSS for ones with stainless steel backing plates. You might be better off with the stainless steel setup if your last set rusted off.
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Bearings for Harbor Freight Trailer
    I really wish there was a way to determine what bearings a trailer needed without actually pulling the wheel off and checking, but there isn't. The only two solutions I have for you would be to remove the hubs and get the numbers that are stamped on the bearing or for you to remove the hubs and use a digital or dial caliper to measure where the bearings and seal ride (see pic). With that info I can help you figure out what you need.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit Required for 1996 EasyLoader Trailer
    Trailer makers do not maintain detailed specs on the smaller items like bearings that are used when fabricating their trailers so the best way to find the correct bearing kit for your 1996 EZ-Loader trailer is to pull one of the hubs and remove its bearings. If you refer to the linked photo you will see the typical placement and appearance of these parts numbers. If you know the trailer's axle weight rating (often on the main I.D. sticker or identified on the axle itself) you can narrow...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Bearing Available with Inner Diameter of 1.25 inches
    We may have the bearings you need, but the spindle dimensions you have aren't standard hub dimensions so you may have something that there aren't replacement parts for. For a bearing that has an inner diameter of 1.25 inches and an outer diameter of 2.328 inches you would want the part # LM67048. For a grease seal that matches your dimensions you would want the part # SL150. The components you listed don't match anything we have so we wouldn't' be able to give you a weight capacity.
    view full answer...
  • New Spindles, Hubs, Tires, and Wheels for a Canoga Concrete Mixer/Trailer
    The LM67048 is a pretty large bearing for a trailer that only weighs 400 pounds. So there isn't a hub that uses that bearing as both the inner and the outer. But if you are willing to remove the old spindles and have new ones welded on then I do have a solution for you. First for the spindles: I recommend a BT8 spindle # TRU97FR for a square stub or # TRU94FR for a round stub. These spindles are usually found on 2,000 pound axles so they have plenty of capacity for your cement mixer...
    view full answer...
  • Availability of Bearing Race to Match Bearing Number LM67048
    The matching race for the bearing part # LM67048 that you referenced is the part # LM67010. This has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The race we have that has an outer diameter of 2.441 inch is the part # 15245 which is designed for the bearing # 15123. The # 15123 happens to have an inner diameter of 1.25 inch like the # LM67048 that you mentioned as well.
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  • Replacement Hub That Uses Bearing Set LM102949 Inner Bearing and # LM67048 Outer Bearing
    Mobile home axles are intended for a single use, to transport a mobile home to its permanent location. They are not suitable to re-use on another trailer for ongoing use. Choosing a replacement hub always requires matching a number of features on the hub. It may be a challenge to find the correct hubs to fit your axle since they are this single-use type. First, it needs to have the same wheel bolt pattern that your wheels have. Second, it must have the correct capacity to match your...
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  • How to Determine Trailer Hub Fit
    There is a way for you to determine the hub you will need, although I was unable to find any type of reference to a JL69349 bearing. That's okay because to find the right hub you can use a digital caliper such as # 301-17068 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings and grease seal ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where you need to measure. Additionally, you need to know the weight rating of your axle and your hub's wheel bolt...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals Based On Printed Number On Face Of Bearing
    For your bearings, I recommend the etrailer.com Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # LM67048. For your seals, I can't find the part number or dimensions anywhere, so if you send me dimensions of inside and outside diameters, I'll do what I can to help.
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Grease Seal for Trailer Hub
    Overfilling Bearing Buddies is a very common reason for a trailer hub seal to blow. Most likely that is what happened. Based on the bearings you said your current hub has you do not have what we would consider a standard hub. You can still find the correct replacement seal though. To pick out a replacement grease seal you will need to measure the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides with a digital or dial caliper and then need to measure the hub bore where the current...
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  • Upgrading Axles On Equipment Trailer To Standard Spindles To Replace Dexter 8-222 Drums
    I have an option but the Dexter 8-222 drums you have on your trailer are primarily used on mobile homes and the only parts we have available for them are the inner bearing # L68149, outer bearing # LM67048, and grease seal # 10-40. My recommendation is to replace the axles which will give you standard spindles and make finding replacement parts now and in the future easier. To know which axle you will need you will need to measure your current axle's hub face to hub face and spring...
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  • Bearing Replacements for Trailer with L44610 L44619 L68111 L68149 442251
    The first set of bearings are Timken which we don't carry and don't have a cross reference for. We do have the race # L44610, with what I believe you meant to type # L44649, race # L68111, and bearing # L68149 with seal # RG06-050.
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  • Replacement Idler and Hub Drum Using LM67048 and 25580 Bearings with 2.25 I.D. Grease Seal
    It sounds like you have two 5200 or 6000 lb capacity axles with a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern. If this is the case, we have some hubs that will work for you. If you have EZ lube spindles, you would need the # 8-213-5UC1-EZ idler hub, and the # 8-201-5UC3-EZ hub/ drum. If you have standard spindles, you would need the # 8-213-5UC1 idler hub, and the # 8-201-5UC3 hub/ drum. The hubs include bearings, races, a grease seal and dust cap but the included grease seal will have the wrong inside...
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  • How to Pick Out Trailer Bearings for a 1986 Boat Trailer
    To pick out bearings for a trailer hub you will need to remove one of the hubs so that you can remove the bearings and get the numbers off of them. Or, you can measure the spindle where the bearings ride so that we can pick you out the correct bearings that would fit the spindle.
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  • Can Two Different Hubs that Use the Different Bearings Be Used on Same Trailer Axle
    The # LM67048 and the # 15123 both have the same inner diameter of 1.250 inches. So in theory they would both work on the same spindle. It sounds like you are thinking about using two different hubs on your trailer axle. As long as the hubs both use bearings and seals that fit the spindle they are used on you would be fine.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Mike L
Expert Research:
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Expert Research:
Michael H
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Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Expert Research:
Jeffrey L
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Joshua S
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W

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