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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048

Item # LM67048

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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LM67048 - Race LM67010 etrailer Bearings
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 5000 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing LM67048
  • Race LM67010
High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 part number LM67048 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (72)
  • Q & A (161)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM67048

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): LM67010
  • Application: outer bearing for 8-201-5 and 8-213-5 hubs


LM67048 Replacement Bearing





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1026LS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1028FKS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1030FK

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1030FKS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1032FKS

2016 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 14DB

2016 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 14DBS

2018 - 2018 Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pup TT Toy Hauler 15DF

2017 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 16BHB

2016 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 16TBS

2015 - 2019 Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pup TT Toy Hauler 17RP

2019 - 2019 Forest River Sandstorm TT Toy Hauler 181SLC

2017 - 2019 Forest River Shockwave TT Toy Hauler 18CBMX

2016 - 2016 CrossRoads Z-1 Lite Travel Trailer 18RB

2018 - 2019 Forest River Cherokee Wolf Pup Travel Trailer 18TO

2014 - 2015 Keystone Carbon TT Toy Hauler 19

2017 - 2019 Eclipse Iconic TT Toy Hauler 1913CB

2016 - 2019 Coachmen Adrenaline TT Toy Hauler 19CB

2018 - 2019 Airstream Tommy Bahama Travel Trailer 19CB

2018 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 19FBLE

2017 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 19SBLE

2008 - 2008 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 20LK

2017 - 2019 Eclipse Iconic TT Toy Hauler 2114SF

2019 - 2019 Forest River Sandstorm TT Toy Hauler 211SLC

2017 - 2017 Dutchmen Razorback Travel Trailer 2150

2012 - 2012 Skyline Bobcat Travel Trailer 216B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 216B

2010 - 2010 Skyline Aljo Way-Lite TT Toy Hauler 219

2009 - 2010 Skyline Layton Way-Lite TT Toy Hauler 219

2010 - 2010 Skyline Nomad Way-Lite TT Toy Hauler 219

See All Vehicle Fits


Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM67048 - LM67048

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (72 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- LM67048
by:

I used this to replace a bearing on my Hudson HBC10 equipment trailer. The fit matches the old bearing and it's held up fine one year later. 558240



- LM67048
by:

Perfect fit for my Q633 hub. The associated grease seal was an SL150 which was difficult to find but the etrailer rep tracked it down and now my trailer is FINALLY back up and running! All my future business will go to etrailer.com. 492463



- Lm67048
by:

PROS: The parts came in on time. CONS: Three of the four inner bearings were the wrong size. I went to O'reillys to get the correct bearings for the job. I use the trailer for work and couldn't wait for etrailer to send me the right bearings. I am currently waiting for a shipping label to send back the wrong bearings for a refund. 470868


Comments

Ill have one of our customer service folks contact you in order to handle this. I apologize for the inconvenience.

-- Mike L - 01/29/2018

33898

- LM67048
by:

Perfect fit! 639073



- LM67048
by:

Fit and price right 597699



- LM67048
by:

Excellent 571018



- LM67048
by:

as with the past product, good valve along with fast shipping 557081



- LM67048
by:

Good products, great prices, comunication was good also, I would recommend them anytime, after being a ASE master since ase came on the scene, its refreshing to deal with professionals. . Thanks. 554071



- LM67048
by:

The bearings,races,and remainder of this order was perfect. However the seals were the wrong size, I sent them back for credit. 552883



- LM67048
by:

Bearings came as they should be. Great communication. 552856



- LM67048
by:

So, I needed new bearings and seals for a 1980 travel trailer wherein the axle, hubs and bearings had no markings. Diana (CSR) helped me work through through the options and was able to identify the correct parts. The bearings and seals came in and were a perfect fit. Everything was on time and intact. Very happy with my first etrailer buy. 518261



- LM67048
by:

Fit the application perfectly. 513756



- LM67048
by:

I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!! Thanks Kayla!!! 499773



- LM67048
by:

etrailer and their customer service are the best i've seen, always there to talk you through the process to help ensure you're buying the right part and answer any questions. Great company! 486983



- LM67048
by:

The parts excatly matched the descript ion 482438



- LM67048
by:

great bearing 473430



- LM67048
by:

PROS: The package came in on time. CONS: Three of the four inner bearings were wrong. I went to O'reillys to get the correct parts. I cannot wait for etrailer to send me the right ones since I use this trailer for work. I am currently waiting for the shipping label to send back the wrong bearings and get refunded. 470871



- LM67048
by:

Very patient and helpful over the phone. Great prices, quick delivery. Happy we found this sight for our travel trailer parts. Thank you 449415



- LM67048
by:

The most common wheel bearing at the absolute best price!!! 428983



- LM67048
by:

Work great turns better than proud of y all 428089



- LM67048
by:

Thanks, will be back for the next trail er 421379



- LM67048
by:

Michelle ...I appreciate the expertise that you used in putting together a wheel/bearing package. Everything was fine ,delivery was speedy ...2 days The packing person really made a mess. The hub assemblies were allowed to come out of their poorly packed box. The hubs bent one of the bearings and 2 seals. The bearings and seals were in an unprotected plastic bag...not in a protection box... Fortunately, I called and the damaged parts were sent to me,quickly I might add. I hope you can review the packing process ,and solve this issue 417434



- LM67048
by:

Great products and fast service. I ordered the bearings, race and seals. I ordered the wrong seals so haven't been able to complete. I must have misread something. 418819



- LM67048
by:

Fantastic..don't bother even looking anywhere else for trailer parts, nobody can touch their pricing 396484



- LM67048
by:

Fit like a glove! 392510



- LM67048
by:

PERFECT FIT... WILL BUY FROM AGAIN 390128


Comments

Perfect replacement no issues.

MUNSTER - 06/11/2018

39588

- LM67048
by:

Product looks to be of quality and the delivery was very quick. Highly recommended vendor 386621



- LM67048
by:

I lost a wheel and brake drum and limped into the campground. I called etrailer and ordered the parts through Lazer. My parts arrived the next day and the order was 100% correct. I am safe at home and am one happy camper. 384487



- LM67048
by:

Great price, customer service, and fast delivery Thanks 382572



- LM67048
by:

Bearings have held up great after a year of use, great quality product. 376721



- LM67048
by:

Always great service! 374822



- LM67048
by:

Received Trailer bearings and misc parts as ordered. 361906



- LM67048
by:

My bearings came today, everything looks good and delivery was pretty quick for the standard delivery rate. 336977



- LM67048
by:

Great price, quick delivery. 331147



- LM67048
by:

The replacement parts I ordered were just what I needed. The sales person was very knowledgeable and helpful. My order was processed very fast and shipped the same day as ordered. Very good parts and service. 322636



- LM67048
by:

When repacking my bearings one showed evidence of wear. I hope this one will last as long or longer than the original. Time will tell but it looks to be of high quality with very little slop on the rollers themselves. 315445



- LM67048
by:

I have a boat trailer that requires wheel bearings and seals periodically. It is 20 years old but I easily found replacements at etrailer.com. I bookmarked the parts so I can get them easily next time. Noticed that the original bearings were made in England, the recent ones are made in China and are of equivalent excellent quality. Delivery was prompt, packing very good. Good retailer. 306950



- LM67048
by:

All the bearings, races, and seals I have purchased from etrailer have been good quality and have never failed. I have used them in my travel trailer for many years. 301536



- LM67048
by:

The parts that I needed, direct to my door with great prices, service and delivery. 300821



- LM67048
by:

Fit perfect. Great price. 299764



- LM67048
by:

Great WebSite , Fast Shipping ! 297037



- LM67048
by:

SECOND TIME IT WAS RIGHT. 295495



- LM67048
by:

They worked just the way i would expect. 291758



- LM67048
by:

I had a non standard axle, so had to call and verify bearings. Was very pleased with the service and that the person on the other end was very easy to understand. Shipment was fast and the parts fit. The price was very competitive. 290300



- LM67048
by:

Had products in stock at reasonable pri ce. 285623



- LM67048
by:

All bearing , races and seal exactly what I needed all running true 279489



- LM67048
by:

Awesome 276289



- LM67048
by:

Thx great part 274104



- LM67048
by:

Right product, right price, fast shippi ng! 249998



- LM67048
by:

Product worked as advertised! 249258


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Can a Hub with Outer Bearing 15123 and LM67048 Both Fit Same Spindle
  • The inner diameters of the LM67048 and 15123 both are the same (1.250 inches). That means that a hub with either bearing in the outer bearing would fit your spindle. The part # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K would fit your axle.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Brakes and Hub Assemblies for Lippert 5,200 Pound Axle
  • For your trailer the drums you need are # 8-201-5. They're designed to fit bearings # 25580 and # LM67048 with the 2-1/4 inch seal # GS-2250DL. For brakes I recommend # AKEBRK-7-SA. Both the left and right sides are included. They are side specific so you'll want to pay attention to the labels when installing. They're self-adjusting brakes so they'll need to be adjusted when you install them and then never again. The grease cap to fit the hubs is # RG04-080 if you have E-Z lube...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Seals and Bearings for 4,400 lb Axle
  • We have the bearings and seals you would need for your 4,400 lb axle. It would be inner bearing # L68149 with race # L68111, outer bearing # LM67048 with race # LM67010 and grease seal # RG06-050. You can find the prices of these parts on their product pages. I've added links of video reviews of these products for you to take a look at as well.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Trailer Bearings and Seals for 4,400 Pound Dexter Axle
  • You'll want to make sure your bearing numbers and dimensions match but for a Dexter 4,400 pound axle you should need inner bearing # L68149 which is 1.378 inches with race # L68111, and outer bearing # LM67048 that is 1.250 inches with race # LM67010. The seal is # RG06-050. If you need the entire hub assembly with a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern it's # 8-407-5UC3-EZ.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement 5 Spoke Utility Hub for Home Built Trailer
  • The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-174-5UC3 referenced in your question uses the same inner bearing # 25580 as your existing hub assembly but a slightly different outer bearing # 15123. With that being said, this particular outer bearing has the same 1.25 inch inner diameter as the # LM67048 that your current hub uses, so this hub will still fit the spindle on your trailer. This Dexter Hub also uses the same 10-10 grease seal, so this hub will work great and there should be no...
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  • MEASUREMENT FROM RACE TO RACE ON AGRICULTURAL HUB T1721400042
  • It sounds like you've got an unusual hub. I was able to find a Spindle Grease Seal Set for # LM67048 Inner Bearing and 2.33 Bearing Buddy, part # BB60008. This grease seal has an inner diameter of 1.875 and an outer diameter of 2.33, which sounds like the size you need. I did some measurements for you and found that the measurement from the inside of the inner race to the inside of the outer race is 2-1/4". The measurement from the outside of the inner race to the outside of the outer...
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  • Can Dexter 8-222 Hub be Replaced with 6 on 5-1/2 Inch Hub on Tandem 4 Ton Trailer
  • I did some research on your Dexter 8-222 Hub and was able to find the inner and outer bearing numbers as well as the grease seal used. It looks like this particular hub was designed for mobile homes and these, for the most part, have more unique bearings and bolt patterns because they are technically manufactured for one time use only and not meant to be altered or replaced. Because of this, there is unfortunately not a 6 on 5-1/2 inch hub available that will be compatible with your...
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  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter 8-222 Hub
  • I looked up your Dexter 8-222 Hub and was able to find the inner and outer bearing numbers as well as the grease seal used. It looks like this particular hub was designed for mobile homes and these, for the most part, have more unique bearings and bolt patterns because they are technically manufactured for one time use only and not meant to be altered or replaced. Because of this, there is unfortunately not a 6 on 5-1/2 inch hub available that will be compatible with your trailer's...
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  • Which Bearings, Races, and Seal Fit Dexter Hubs 8-283
  • For the inner bearing you need # LM67048 and race # LM67010. The outer bearing is # L44649 and race # L44610. The seal is # 10-42.
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  • Replacement hub Parts for 3,000 lb Dexter Axle With Bearings LM67048 and L44649
  • There isn't a kit available, but I was able to find each of the components you need, which are available individually. Obviously, you will need bearing # LM67048 and matching race # LM67010, along with bearing # L44649 and matching race # L44610. For a grease seal you need # 58846, along with grease cap # 21-41-1 and cotter pin # 165649.
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  • Bearing Replacements for L68149 and LM67048
  • We have the individual parts you need but not as a kit. You'd want the bearing part # LM67048 and # L68149. Since this is not a standard bearing combination I would need to know more info to pick out the seal. I'd need to know the diameter of your spindle where the seal rides as well as the diameter of the hub where the seal installs.
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  • Recommendation For New Boat Trailer Hub W/Bearings LM67048
  • To determine the best size hub assembly for your needs, I need the inner and outer bearings size of the old assembly. Based on our fit guide, the bearings size you sent, Item # LM67048, appears to be the outer bearings which gives me a great starting point. If Item # LM67048 is the outer bearings size then we have a few options depending on the inner bearings size. If the old assembly has inner bearings, Item # L68149, you would use Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Item # 8-407-5UC3-EZ....
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  • Needing Bearing and Seal Replacement for Lippert Axle
  • I found a bearing and seals that will fit your Lippert Axles. According to the manufacturer on the 5,200 lbs axles, the outer bearing number is # LM67048, the inner bearing is # 25580 and the grease seal will be 10-36, # RG06-070. Now, before you order your parts, you will need to remove the wheel and hubs to inspect the bearings to see if the bearing numbers are match to the ones listed above. If they match then you will need # BK3-300. This is a bearing kit that will include both...
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  • Replacement Hub Needed for Boat Trailer with 5 on 4-1/2 inch Bolt Pattern and LM67048 Bearing
  • To determine what replacement hub will fit your spindle you will need the part number of your Inner Bearing, Outer Bearing, and Grease Seal. If you cannot find the part numbers then you can use a Digital Caliper # PTW80157 and measure parts B, C, and D of your spindle from the attached picture. You will want to measure them to the 3rd decimal place, like 0.725. Currently the only hub that we have to offer which has a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern and uses the # LM67048 bearing is the...
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  • Replacement Hubs With Bearings 25580 and LM67048 and Brakes Which Fit
  • To replace your idler hubs with a hub and drum for electric brakes, what you can do is use Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-201-5UC3 and replace its grease seal with # GS-2250DL, which has the same outer diameter as your current seal so it will work for you. This hub has a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern so finding wheels to fit should be no problem. The idler hub assembly would be # 8-213-5UC1. The hub and drum takes 12" brake assemblies, and the electric brakes that will work are #...
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  • Recommended Replacement Wheel Bearings On An Airstream Trailer
  • Yes, the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing, # 25580, is the replacement for the Airstream trailer bearing 4T-25580. It has an inner diameter of 1.750 inches and has the same outer diameter as well. If the (back)INNER bearing is the 4T-25580, then there are 3 different common outer bearing combinations. If you have a 6,000 lb axle, the outer bearing will be # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-070 will be needed as well. The bearing kit that includes these 3 parts is # BK3-100. If you...
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  • Replacement Hubs and Electric Brakes for 2003 Airstream Classic Trailer
  • Based on my research, the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-201-5 will replace the 3160121 drums on your 2003 Airstream Classic. This assembly is designed for 5,200 pound axles and features a 6 on 5-1/2 inch bolt pattern. I have attached an article on how to measure your bolt pattern so you can ensure this will be the correct fit. The hub uses # 25580 inner bearing and # LM67048. I also recommend verifying the bearings on your existing hubs so you can be sure this is a perfect match....
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  • Replacement Hubs For Trailer With 3/4 Inch Outer Diameter Spindle That Is Straight
  • The only hub we have that is currently available for a 3/4 inch spindle is Item # AH15450ECOMP. This is an agricultural hub that fits 3,000 lbs axles for 4 on 5 inch bolt pattern. It takes an inner bearing, Item # LM67048, and outer bearing, Item # LM11949. It is meant to be used for low speed (less than 20 mph) agricultural applications. It is designed for a spindle like Item # AS1500E. If you can find the actual bearing number on your old bearings and seal or can send me a bearing...
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  • Recommendation For Hub And Drum With Outer Bearing LM67048
  • Based on your information, it sounds like you have either a 4,400-lb or 5,200-lb trailer axle. Both can have an outer bearing like Item # LM67048 but the inner bearing and hubs will be different. For a 4,400-lb axle, the inner bearing will be like Item # L68149 and for a 5,200-lb axle it will be like Item # 25580. I do not know the bolt pattern of your wheels but the most common pattern is 6 on 5-1/2. I have also attached an article on "how to measure bolt patterns" in case you need...
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael L
Expert Research:
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Expert Research:
Michael H
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
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Video Edited:
Joshua S
Expert Research:
Adam R
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Jeffrey L
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Photos by:
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