1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123

Item # 15123
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps 15123 - 1.250 Inch I.D. - etrailer
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123 part number 15123 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 15123

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 15123
  • Race 15245

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): 15245
  • Application: outer bearing for 42655, 42656 and 8-174-5 hubs


15123 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123 - 15123

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (49 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- 15123
by:

if you need it chances are e-trailer has is....... supper feast shipping and very helpful service. i service around 10 16' trailers at our shop and I have never needed something they didn't have, . 740306



- 15123
by:

Everything is running great thank you you guys have a great company appreciate it and get it out quick and it’s always right 713969



- 15123
by:

All parts arrived timely and fit well. System works fine and I am very satisfied. THANKS AGAIN 707557



- 15123
by:

Bought new axel parts and brakes bigger wheels for my boat trailer. My existing axel was 20 years old and never was adequate for the weight it hauled causing wheel bearings to wear out and the chance of loosing a wheel. This was the most economical way to repair as a new trailer was so expensive. All the parts I needed were available and went together beautifully. Very happy with etrailer, this is not the first time I have ordered from them great option for any parts you need. 698697



- 15123
by:

Quality products, friendly staff, and great value. Extra fast shipping. Thanks 665785



- 15123
by:

WHEN NOT REPLACING THE DRUMS THESE ARE THE BEST WAY TO GO. 647212



- 15123
by:

As always the shipping was quick and everything was packaged professionally. Parts went on with no problems. etrailer is my go to place for rv 5er parts. Also if you have a question just ask their experts and you will get a fast and accurate reply. 613970



- 15123
by:

Good parts 604198



- 15123
by:

The right part 604193



- 15123
by:

The right bearings 603887



- 15123
by:

The right parts 604184



- 15123
by:

Product as described 585842



- 15123
by:

Very fast on delivery , great company to buy trailer parts from. Thank you 560587



- 15123
by:

I have a 10K dump trailer that I lent out, it was overloaded and bent an axle. Having never replaced one. I was grateful for the assistance getting the correct parts, including an axle, bolts, bearings, seals etc. The parts fit and assembled well. Nice going fellas, I'll be back. 546776



- 15123
by:

Looks great so far :) Thank you 540139



- 15123
by:

Excellent: big issue to me: salesperson knew what she was selling. Bearings are for later when we check the brakes and bearings in June on the trailer 469571



- 15123
by:

We have not had any problems everything is working well. 445821



- 15123
by:

Awesome! Everything worked great and great quality. 442442



- 15123
by:

Great value 441612



- 15123
by:

Exactly what i ordered and shipped propmtly.Thank You 420218



- 15123
by:

The trailer I'm rebuilding had obsolete bearings, but using a caliper I was able to find everything on etrailer. My local trailer supply place was ridiculously over priced so I went with etrailer. Thank You for the quick delivery. 404410



- 15123
by:

Doing the job well. All is good after several thousand miles. 401908



- 15123
by:

worked out great 382415



- 15123
by:

Used these on a homemade flatbed reusing an old camper axle from the 50's the numbers on the old bearings did not cross to anything current, fortunately E Trailer has the specs online a few measurements with a caliper and you are in business. Thanks E Trailer 360256



- 15123
by:

Excellent products at reasonable prices and Great Service! 350117


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • What is the Difference Between 1.25 Inch Trailer Bearings
    The short answer is Yes, bearing # 15123 is slightly larger and stronger than # LM67048 and they use different races which means they are not interchangeable. Bearing 15123 uses race # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches and bearing LM67048 uses race # LM67010 which has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The size and strength differences are due to the fact that bearing # 15123 is used in a higher weight capacity hub. Bearing # 15123 is the outer bearing for a hub for...
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure Grease Seal's Inner Diameter
    The Replacement Inner Trailer Hub Bearing for 15123 is item # 15123. It has a inner diameterof 1.250. The matching race is # 15245. Since your other bearing measures 1.750" it is a match with, Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 Item # 25580. The matching race is # 25520. The above bearings and races are included in bearing kits # BK3-100 and # BK3-110. You will need to measure on your spindle where the seal sits for its inner diameter location, that is marked "B" on the...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hub for the # 15123 Outer Bearing
    I have a recommendation for you, however, you will not be able to use the # 15123 bearing with your current hub. The 15123 bearing will fit on your spindle, but it will be too large for the hub and race. I have a few recommendations for you. If you have trailer brakes, I recommend the etrailer Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly 5,200 lbs. and 6,000 lbs. Axles # AKHD-655-6-K. This hub and drum will work with electric or hydraulic brakes. If you have an E-Z Lube Spindle, you will want the etrailer...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seals for Trailer
    The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # 15123 and .750 inch outer bearing # LM11949, will use races # LM11910 and # 15245. For seals, that inner bearing often is used with the Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) # RG06-070 which have an inner diameter 2.250 inches of and outer diameter of 3.376. I recommend using a caliper like # PTW80157 to get a precise measurement to confirm fit.
    view full answer...
  • Axle Replacement Recommendation for a Trailer With Mobile Home Axles
    Mobile home axles are designed as one time use axles. They usually have odd spindle sizes on them that make them incompatible with standard trailer hubs. The only recommendation I could make for you would be to install new axles on your trailer. I attached a page that has all of the axles we have with the correct hubs included. You will need to select the capacity you need from the facets on the left, followed by selecting the overall length axle you want from hub face to hub face,...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearing For Timken 15123 Trailer Hub Bearing
    We do offer the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing, part # 15123 for your trailer but I was unable to find a cross-reference for the Timken 09067 bearing you stated you need. You can measure the inner diameter and see if there are any bearings from the attached pages that would work as a replacement for you. We also offer the matching race for the 15123 and that is part # 15245.
    view full answer...
  • Can Trailer Hub Be Changed from Bolts to Standard Wheel Studs
    It is potentially possible to change a hub from bolts to standard screw-in wheel studs. In order to do this a number of features have to match up between the bolts and studs. The diameters of both the original bolts and the replacement studs must be the same. Their thread pitch must also match to ensure the screw-in studs, like Redline # 25-53 for instance, will properly fit into the threaded holes in the hubs. This particular screw-in stud has a 1/2-inch diameter with fine threads (20...
    view full answer...
  • Bearings for the Dexter 8-201 Hub/Drum
    If you have a number 42 spindle your spindle should be 1.74 inches where the outer bearing rides and 1.25 inches where the inner bearing rides. I would recommend you take some measurements on the spindle you have to verify what you have so that we can pick you out the correct hub because it doesn't sound like you have a 42 spindle. It sounds like you might have a BTR spindle which has a grease seal diameter of 1.5 inches (easily confusable with inner bearing diameter, inner bearing...
    view full answer...
  • Can Mobile Home Axles Be Converted to Standard Trailer Wheels and Hubs
    The thing about mobile home axles is that they are usually designed for one time use and the spindles have non-standard dimensions so we don't have hubs that would fit them. The best option I could make would be to replace the axles with new ones so that you can use a normal style of trailer wheel. To see all of the axles we offer check out the link I attached. If you need axles with different dimensions you would need to find a local place that can custom order you axles.
    view full answer...
  • Parts for Lugged Hubs on a Mobile Home Axle with 15123 inner and 25880 Outer Bearings
    It sounds like you have a spindle that uses the Inner Trailer Hub Bearing, item # 25580, that has a 1.750 inch inner diameter. The outer # 15123 bearing has a 1.250 inch inner diameter. I would check the seal surface on the spindle to be sure that it matches the # RG06-070 seal inner diameter of 2.250 inches. Many times mobile home axles use non- standard parts so careful measurement of all of the parts is required. If all of these dimensions match, then you will need to determine whether...
    view full answer...
  • Can Different Hubs be Put on a Mobile Home Axle
    We have one hub that might work. I can see in the picture you have submitted that the bottom bearing is L68149. That would be the inner since it has a 1.378 inch inner diameter. I can't see the other bearing number but the one hub that takes L68149 as the inner and an outer bearing with a 1.25 inch inner diameter is # 8-407-5UC3-EZ. This hub is designed to fit 4,400 pound EZ lube axles. EZ lube axles have grease fittings at the ends of the spindles. It can still be used even if the axles...
    view full answer...
  • Can I Use Different Bearings If the Inner Diameter (I.D) Is The Same
    You are correct, when replacing the hub/drum on your trailer you will only need to match the spindle to the inner diameter (I.D) of the bearings. The outer diameter (O.D) of the bearings would obviously have to match the hub but if you purchase them together as a kit then there would be no need to do this as it has already been done for you. The reason for this is that there can be more than one bearing with the same inner diameter (I.D). For example, part # 15123 and part # 14125A both...
    view full answer...
  • Available Trailer Wheel Bearings with 1.250-Inch Inner Diameter
    The very best way to find a replacement wheel bearing is to locate the part number stamped into the bearing's outer housing. Please refer to the linked photo to see the typical placement and appearance of bearing, race and seal part numbers. When part numbers are not available it is possible to take measurements of the spindle (for the bearing's inner diameter) and the hub bore (for the bearing outer diameter). We do have several wheel bearings with the 1.250-inch inner diameter you...
    view full answer...
  • Availability of Hub that Has Bearings 25580 and LM67048
    We have several hubs that will fit the spindle you have on your trailer. Which by the way thank you for getting me the bearing numbers. For a hub with drum that would fit you would want the part # 8-201-5UC3 which will fit and has a 6 on 5-1/2 inch bolt pattern. I attached a review video for you to check out. For brake assemblies you would want the part # AKEBRK-7R-SA for the right hand side and part # AKEBRK-7L-SA for the left side.
    view full answer...
  • Availability of 5-Bolt Hub/Drum That Takes Bearings 25580 and LM67048
    It sounds like you're looking for a replacement 5-bolt hub that takes bearings # 25580 and # LM67048. Matching the old hub's bearings to the replacement's is essential to ensure the new hub will properly fit on the spindle. We do have several hubs that take this same bearing set but they are all 6 or 8 lug types. You can see them all by clicking on the link provided. For example, part # 8-201-5UC3 is a 12 x 2-inch hub/drum with a 6-on-5-1/2 bolt pattern for 5200-lb axles that takes...
    view full answer...
  • How to Choose 6-on-5-1/2 Hub/Drum Assemblies and Brakes for an Axle
    Replacement hubs are selected based on the bearing set used in the originals. The linked picture shows you the typical location and appearance of bearing, race and seal part numbers, but if you cannot find those you can measure the spindles with a precision caliper to the nearest thousandth of an inch (1.123). The locations to measure are shown also. I included a link to our main page for all 6-on-5-1/2 bolt pattern hub/drum assemblies. These come with the appropriate bearings, races,...
    view full answer...
  • Need a Grease Seal With Inner Diameter of 1.845 Inches and Outer Diameter of 2.442 Inches
    We offer a range of grease seals in various sizes. These can be seen on the link provided. You can select parts based on the seal inner and outer diameters or you can use the bearing number from your trailer to search for a grease seal. I have attached two photos, which show where such part numbers are typically found and where to measure the spindle and hub bore to obtain accurate inner and outer seal diameters. The trouble with measuring the original seals is that they may have been...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Races for Single Axle Trailer with National Oil Seal 412920
    Sounds like you will need the # 15123 bearing and # 15245 race for that bearing. For the # 25580 bearing, you'll need the # 25520 race. For the oil seal you would need part # 9103309 which is the exact same as your 412920. We do not have a full kit of this so they are all sold separately. I have linked all the above mentioned products to this page for your convenience.
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  • How Do Axles Attach to a Trailer or Mobile Home Frame
    The first thing you should know is that if you went and got 3 mobile home axles then they would have to be new, never used, because they are meant for one-time use only. If you have 3 regular axles then they should be fine as long as they are in good working order. Axles attach to a frame through the suspension. The axles are attached to the leaf spring stacks with a u-bolt kit and the leaf springs are bolted to hangers that are welded to the bottoms of the frame rails. Assuming...
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  • Adding Brakes to a Mobile Home Axle
    If your old axles have a 5 bolt brake flange the assemblies like Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - 12" - Left Hand - 6,000 lbs part # 23-105 or Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - 12" - Right Hand - 6,000 lbs part # 23-106 will bolt directly to them. If your current flanges don't have the same pattern you can remove the current studs in the flange and drill new holes in the correct spacing for these using the brake assembly as a template and using the Mounting Bolts and Hardware...
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  • Replacement Trailer Wheel for Mobile Home Axle with 4 Bolt Wheels and Star-Shaped Pilot Hole
    Mobile home axles are designed for one-time use only by the manufacturer. Because of this it is very difficult to find any replacement parts. It kind of sounds like you are talking about a 4 on 9.44 bolt pattern. We do have some wheels like this that I have linked for you. I do not recommend keeping that axle because of the lack of parts available and because its designed for one-time use. What I would do is replace the axle. You can order an axle from a local tractor or trailer supply...
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  • Bearing Recommendation with an Inner Diameter of 1.25 inches
    The bearing part # 15123 that you referenced has an inner diameter of 1.25 inches. The matching race for this bearing though is part # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches. It sounds like you actually need bearing part # Lm67048 and race # LM67010 since you said you need an ID of 1.25 and an OD of 2.328.
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  • Available Complete Replacement Axle Kits
    Thank you for providing your hub's bearing numbers # 15123 and 09067. We do not have a hub that uses 15123 as inner and 09067 as outer bearings. Your alternatives are to cut off your existing spindles and install spindles like # R2061-284 that would be compatible with a standard hub like # 84545BX; or you could replace the entire axle. I linked our main page for complete trailer axle kits, some of which include hubs or drums and even electric brakes. For instance, part # 35545E-ST-EZ-89...
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  • Determining Capacity of an Old Trailer Axle with No Information on the Axle
    The 15123 bearing is still common but I could not find any information on the 09057 bearing. But given that your hubs have the 4 bolt pattern it is likely that the axle is rated under 3,000 pounds. Most likely it is a 2,000 pound axle. Measure the spindle where the 09057 bearing rides using calipers such as # PTW80157 I can see if there is a different bearing with the same inner diameter that is commonly used with 15123 and go from there. Since you still have the trailer frame as...
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  • Can Either Wire of Trailer Brake Magnets be Used for Power or Ground
    Brake magnet wires are not polarity specific. Either can be used as power or ground as long as the other wire is used for the opposite circuit.
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  • How to Add Brakes to a Trailer Axle
    Sounds like you are looking to upgrade a trailer from having idler hubs to one that has brakes. There are several things to consider and determine to do this. If you check out the FAQ article I attached you will see exactly how to add brakes to a trailer that didn't have any. I attached articles. One for adding electric brakes and one for adding hydraulic brakes. You will need to remove your hubs to either get the bearing numbers or spindle dimensions so that you can determine what...
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  • Wheel Bearings, Grease Seals and Electric Drum Brakes for 2002 Fleetwood Pride 5th Wheel Trailer
    We can help you with replacement bearings, grease seals and electric drum brakes for the 6K axles on your 2002 Fleetwood Pride fifth wheel camping trailer. The best value in a pair of self-adjusting 12 x 2-inch electric drum brakes that will work great on your axles comes from Axle Teknology kit # AKEBRK-7-SA. You will need two kits to have four new brakes, two left-hand and two right-hand. These have the common 5-bolt mounting pattern. When you wire them you can use either wire for...
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  • Pre-Greased Replacement 5-on-5 Hub for 3500-lb Dexter Axle
    You can confirm the weight rating of your Dexter axle by removing one hub and pulling its bearings. The included photo shows how part numbers usually appear on bearings. The specific bearings used will tell you the axle's weight rating. Just refer to the linked article that lists the bearings commonly used for various axle weight ratings. A new hub must use the same bearings as the original hub in order to fit on your spindles. A 3500-lb axle commonly uses bearings # L68149 and #...
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