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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123

Item # 15123
Our Price: $8.76
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.33 lbs
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps 15123 - 1.250 Inch I.D. - etrailer
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123 part number 15123 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 15123

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing 15123
  • etrailer
  • Race 15245

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): 15245
  • Application: outer bearing for 42655, 42656 and 8-174-5 hubs

15123 Replacement Bearing

Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123 - 15123

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (100 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


All items were received in a timely manner, packaged decently and no damage upon receipt. I have yet to install however, hubs/rotors appear to be in pristine condition. Bearing and seals also appear to be top quality.


Great quality, great prices. I converted an old gooseneck trailer from the open center mobile home-style hubs to modern 6k hubs on a budget. These fit the replacement hub/brake units that I had. Was able to get all the missing pieces I needed from etrailer.


I received the shipment today, quick 3 day delivery. I was somewhat surprised to find each item loose in the box, definitely not how I have seen bearing when opening a box. Being shipped loose in a box does not prevent damage to some of the parts or prevent moisture damage (rust). For the parts I will not be using immediately, they will be packaged separately and coated in a film of oil or grease to prevent rust.

Robert H.


I added the bearings and endcaps to my spare parts inventory.


I was surprised that they were shipped loose in the box to just bang around


Just what I ordered. Order arrived very quickly! Customer service A+


This was a perfect fit for my Lippert 6,000 lb. axle outer wheel bearing used on our 2006 Heartland Bighorn 3055 5th wheel.

Ron S.


So Far, So Good, Better bearings than original.


Bought new axel parts and brakes bigger wheels for my boat trailer. My existing axel was 20 years old and never was adequate for the weight it hauled causing wheel bearings to wear out and the chance of loosing a wheel. This was the most economical way to repair as a new trailer was so expensive. All the parts I needed were available and went together beautifully. Very happy with etrailer, this is not the first time I have ordered from them great option for any parts you need.


One year and no problems.


Used these on a homemade flatbed reusing an old camper axle from the 50's the numbers on the old bearings did not cross to anything current, fortunately E Trailer has the specs online a few measurements with a caliper and you are in business. Thanks E Trailer


Product good, Shipping great, packaging for shipping very bad. I have worked with bearings for 40 years and have had several training's for timken, fag, and others.
never have i seen bearing just put in a box with no covering. bearing should be sealed and not allowed to spin freely until time of use. they are usually wrapped with some sort of covering or at a minimum boxed individually.


I have used etrailer bearings and races for the last 10 years on our 5th Wheel trailer. The web site is easy to navigate and the ordering process is helpful and easy to navigate. All my etrailer orders arrive on schedule and the products arrive in perfect condition.

Based on my experience with etrailer I recommend ordering products from this company to all my friends that do their own work.


I have a 10K dump trailer that I lent out, it was overloaded and bent an axle. Having never replaced one. I was grateful for the assistance getting the correct parts, including an axle, bolts, bearings, seals etc. The parts fit and assembled well. Nice going fellas, I'll be back.


It was great doing business-- Customer service helped me with some options on my order when the races needed in a kit were not in stock for another 2 weeks. Sent the rest of my parts rather than wait for the races, (found the races locally at 80% more cost ) but I am able to get my boat trailer on the road in time for our planned vacation. Their prices will save you money! I highly recommend them and will order in the future. One small con- As I read in other posts, It would be nice to see them individually wrap all bearings and races ( rust preventive or kraft paper perhaps?) to prevent nicks and scratches in shipment, but otherwise I am completely satisfied with their service and pricing!


I think the product is fine only time will tell but the process of ordering and the rapid delivery and Stacy we the best me trailers has it ad the price is good and as promised





Had to return my first order. etrailer offers services for identification of bearings from numbers on the side of the bearing; type bearing used on type axle; weight class of the bearing; and "some" dimensions. None of the aforementioned were available to me and I matched the published dimensions. It was the missing dimension that was wrong and not published which led to the wrong order. All my orders with etrailer were right on except this one- tough situation for the supplier and the buyer, perhaps an area in need of improvement.


"Corroded/rusty grease seal I received was promptly replaced with a new one being sent to me. Thanks etrailer for the prompt response!"


My order shipped and was delivered faster than expected. The parts are top quality and the installation has gone smoothly. I am very pleased with the staff at e trailer as they were very helpful, courteous, and were genuinely concerned with my order. I definitely will order again from e trailer and will recommend them to my friends.

Thank you e trailer for your help.


The trailer I'm rebuilding had obsolete bearings, but using a caliper I was able to find everything on etrailer. My local trailer supply place was ridiculously over priced so I went with etrailer. Thank You for the quick delivery.


As always the shipping was quick and everything was packaged professionally. Parts went on with no problems. etrailer is my go to place for rv 5er parts. Also if you have a question just ask their experts and you will get a fast and accurate reply.


I have an older boat trailer and was able to find all the parts I needed to get it back on the road on


etrailer always has the best prices, fastest service and highest quality products.


Excellent: big issue to me: salesperson knew what she was selling. Bearings are for later when we check the brakes and bearings in June on the trailer


if you need it chances are e-trailer has is....... supper feast shipping and very helpful service. i service around 10 16' trailers at our shop and I have never needed something they didn't have, .


i actually had two orders, one with Lori and one with Nicole. Both were very
helpful and i couldn't have had better service and assistance. I'm very pleased with everything. I have the parts installed completely and never took any pics.
shipping was very good also. if i need anything i'm sure to call etrailer. thanks john


Nocomplaints so far.

Show More Reviews

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    I can certainly point you in the right direction, but I do not have a way to look up bearing specs for a trailer based on a year make and model. If only it were so easy right? Now since it is a 6 lug hub, and a GVWR just under 10K, you likely are dealing with either 5,200 lb axles, or 6,000 lb axles. These axles can use a few different bearing sizes/combinations. Most commonly it would be a # 25580 (1.75" inner diameter) inner bearing and a # 15123 (1.25" inner diameter) outer bearing....
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  • Which Grease Seal for Trailer Hub is Associated with Bearing # 15123
    The grease seal most commonly associated with the bearing number # 15123 is going to be the part # GS-2250DL which has an inner diameter of 2.25 inch and outer diameter of 3.376 inch.
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  • Where to Mount the Brake Mounting Flange 4-44-1
    I can see how that would throw you off. The Brake Mounting Flange for 3" Round Axle part # 4-44-1 is designed to mount onto the spindle just behind the seals it doesn't sit all the way inboard so it's not around the entire axle. I've included a picture to show you what I mean.
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  • Proper Bearing Replacement Based on Both Inner Diameter of Bearing and Outer Diameter of Race
    With the inner diameter of your bearing being 1.250 inches, there are currently 5 options as you stated. The best way to determine fit is to find your race number or to measure your bearing race inside your hub. The outer diameter of that race will help us confirm the proper bearing fit. For instance, if the outer diameter of the race is 2.441 inches, then we know the race is # 15245 and the bearing needed is # 15123. I've attached a photo to assist.
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  • Can Trailer Axle 8327816 Use Hub with Outer Bearing LM67048 and 15123
    Yes, since the inner diameter of the two bearings you mentioned # LM67048 and # 15123 are both 1.25 inches you can use a hub that has either. Basically any 5,200 to 7,000 lb hub will fit as they are designed to fit the number 42 spindle dimensions this axle has.
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  • Can I Use Different Bearings If the Inner Diameter (I.D) Is The Same
    You are correct, when replacing the hub/drum on your trailer you will only need to match the spindle to the inner diameter (I.D) of the bearings. The outer diameter (O.D) of the bearings would obviously have to match the hub but if you purchase them together as a kit then there would be no need to do this as it has already been done for you. The reason for this is that there can be more than one bearing with the same inner diameter (I.D). For example, part # 15123 and part # 14125A both...
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  • How to Tell Torsion Axle Capacity
    The only way to tell the capacity of a torsion axle, if you cannot find any markings on the axle itself to identify it, is to remove the hub and check the bearing numbers. You will then be able to reference the hub bearing numbers to the rating of the hub, which will be the same as the axle. For example if you had inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 15123 then it is likely a 6,000 lb axle. Without any identifying markers this would be the only way to know how what your capacity...
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  • Does Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # KHR12D Fit all 6k Trailer Axles
    If you have a standard 6k trailer axle the Kodiak kit part # KHR12D is going to be a fit for it. Easiest way to check is to pull the hub off your current axle and check the bearing numbers in it. If they are # 25580 and # 15123 (which this kit does not supply), then this would fit and work well for you. The other way to check is to measure the spindle where the bearings ride. If the dimensions are 1.73 and 1.38 inch this kit would fit.
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  • Is There a Trailer Bearing with Inner Diameter of 1-3/16"
    I do have some options for you but bearings are not measured using fractions, they are measured using decimals to the nearest thousandth of an inch. It's not possible to be precise enough with a ruler or tape measure to record bearing diameters, you need a caliper. The closest we have to 1-3/16" is 1.250". Some common bearings which have this size are are part # 02475 which has a 2.688" outer diameter race or part # 15123 which has a 2.441" outer diameter race.
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  • Bearing Replacement for Dexter 6,000 lb Trailer Axle
    For your Dexter 6k axle the bearings you would need are part # 15123 and # 25580.
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