Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123

Item # 15123

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps 15123 - 1.250 Inch I.D. - etrailer
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 15123
  • Race 15245
High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123 part number 15123 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (44)
  • Q & A (144)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 15123

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): 15245
  • Application: outer bearing for 42655, 42656 and 8-174-5 hubs


15123 Replacement Bearing





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

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2006 - 2006 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS DLX Fifth Wheel 26.5RL

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2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 26DB

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2011 - 2011 Heartland RV ElkRidge Fifth Wheel 27RLSS

2018 - 2018 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 27SA

See All Vehicle Fits



Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 15123 - 15123

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (44 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- 15123
by:

WHEN NOT REPLACING THE DRUMS THESE ARE THE BEST WAY TO GO. 647212



- 15123
by:

As always the shipping was quick and everything was packaged professionally. Parts went on with no problems. etrailer is my go to place for rv 5er parts. Also if you have a question just ask their experts and you will get a fast and accurate reply. 613970



- 15123
by:

Good parts 604198



- 15123
by:

The right part 604193



- 15123
by:

The right bearings 603887



- 15123
by:

The right parts 604184



- 15123
by:

Product as described 585842



- 15123
by:

Very fast on delivery , great company to buy trailer parts from. Thank you 560587



- 15123
by:

I have a 10K dump trailer that I lent out, it was overloaded and bent an axle. Having never replaced one. I was grateful for the assistance getting the correct parts, including an axle, bolts, bearings, seals etc. The parts fit and assembled well. Nice going fellas, I'll be back. 546776



- 15123
by:

Looks great so far :) Thank you 540139



- 15123
by:

Excellent: big issue to me: salesperson knew what she was selling. Bearings are for later when we check the brakes and bearings in June on the trailer 469571



- 15123
by:

We have not had any problems everything is working well. 445821



- 15123
by:

Awesome! Everything worked great and great quality. 442442



- 15123
by:

Great value 441612



- 15123
by:

Exactly what i ordered and shipped propmtly.Thank You 420218



- 15123
by:

The trailer I'm rebuilding had obsolete bearings, but using a caliper I was able to find everything on etrailer. My local trailer supply place was ridiculously over priced so I went with etrailer. Thank You for the quick delivery. 404410



- 15123
by:

Doing the job well. All is good after several thousand miles. 401908



- 15123
by:

worked out great 382415



- 15123
by:

Used these on a homemade flatbed reusing an old camper axle from the 50's the numbers on the old bearings did not cross to anything current, fortunately E Trailer has the specs online a few measurements with a caliper and you are in business. Thanks E Trailer 360256



- 15123
by:

Excellent products at reasonable prices and Great Service! 350117



- 15123
by:

Great Product , Just what I was looking for . GREAT SERVICE !!!! 347918



- 15123
by:

Exactly what I needed, excellent price, super fast shipping 347632



- 15123
by:

I have an older boat trailer and was able to find all the parts I needed to get it back on the road on etrailer.com 325148



- 15123
by:

My order shipped and was delivered faster than expected. The parts are top quality and the installation has gone smoothly. I am very pleased with the staff at e trailer as they were very helpful, courteous, and were genuinely concerned with my order. I definitely will order again from e trailer and will recommend them to my friends. Thank you e trailer for your help. 302183



- 15123
by:

They worked just the way i would expect. 291753



- 15123
by:

Did not use (spare parts) 289958



- 15123
by:

Worked well 275588



- 15123
by:

Excellent service on both of my recent orders. Follow up and going the extra effort is appreciated . Thanks 249301



- 15123
by:

Bearings are great. 229184



- 15123
by:

good product great shipper 221051



- 15123
by:

This was a perfect fit for my Lippert 6,000 lb. axle outer wheel bearing used on our 2006 Heartland Bighorn 3055 5th wheel. 213015


Comments

So Far, So Good, Better bearings than original.

Ron S - 08/17/2016

20310

- 15123
by:

It was great doing business-- Customer service helped me with some options on my order when the races needed in a kit were not in stock for another 2 weeks. Sent the rest of my parts rather than wait for the races, (found the races locally at 80% more cost ) but I am able to get my boat trailer on the road in time for our planned vacation. Their prices will save you money! I highly recommend them and will order in the future. One small con- As I read in other posts, It would be nice to see them individually wrap all bearings and races ( rust preventive or kraft paper perhaps?) to prevent nicks and scratches in shipment, but otherwise I am completely satisfied with their service and pricing! 201683



- 15123
by:

Perfect fit, easy install, great price! 193713



- 15123
by:

Good bearings 193346



- 15123
by:

Very happy, it's a good product. Very fast shipping. 159795



- 15123
by:

Very pleasant experience . Will shop with u again. 141222



- 15123
by:

very good 139647



- 15123
by:

Look good! 120621



- 15123
by:

Everything checked out pretty well. It all fit as it should and seems to be as same quality as what was removed. looking forward to using etrailer again for parts. Thank you, Jeysson 100186



- 15123
by:

Exactly as described but was not very well packaged for shipment 77554



- 15123
by:

Great quality, perfect match and easy to replace my original parts with this new part 69404



- 15123
by:

I have used etrailer bearings and races for the last 10 years on our 5th Wheel trailer. The etrailer.com web site is easy to navigate and the ordering process is helpful and easy to navigate. All my etrailer orders arrive on schedule and the products arrive in perfect condition. Based on my experience with etrailer I recommend ordering products from this company to all my friends that do their own work. 59574



- 15123
by:

Had to return my first order. etrailer offers services for identification of bearings from numbers on the side of the bearing; type bearing used on type axle; weight class of the bearing; and "some" dimensions. None of the aforementioned were available to me and I matched the published dimensions. It was the missing dimension that was wrong and not published which led to the wrong order. All my orders with etrailer were right on except this one- tough situation for the supplier and the buyer, perhaps an area in need of improvement. 58142



- 15123
by:

Bearing fit as expected, unknow if made in USA 44075


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  • Which Hubs Fit the Timbren Heavy-Duty Axle-Less Trailer Suspension # TASR35HDS06 with 2" Lift
  • The hubs that fit the Timbren Heavy-Duty Axle-Less Trailer Suspension # TASR35HDS06 use inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # 15123, and a grease seal with a 2-1/4" inner diameter. For regular hub use part # AKIHUB-655-6-EZ-K but if you are wanting to incorporate brakes then you want hub and drum part # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K with the brakes # AKEBRK-7-SA for electric or # AKFBBRK-7 for hydraulic. I have attached some installation videos that you can reference as well.
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  • Hubs and Electric Brake Assemblies for M1010A2 Military Trailer
  • The etrailer.com Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K referenced in your question is designed for 5,200 or 6,000 pound axles. The weight capacity of the hub itself (for a single hub) is 3,000 pounds. As long as your current hubs use the # 25580 inner bearing and # 15123 outer bearing this hub will work great as a replacement. The hub has a 6 on 5-1/2 inch bolt pattern. I am not sure what you mean by searching for a more durable hub. This particular unit does feature a sturdy...
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  • Replacement Electric Brake Assembly for AL-KO 5,200 Pound Axle
  • If you are just replacing the electric brake assemblies for your AL-KO 5,200 pound axle, I recommend looking at the etrailer.com Electric Trailer Brake Kit - Self-Adjusting # AKEBRK-7-SA. These are 12 inch x 2 inch self-adjusting brakes designed for axle ratings of 5,200 pounds. They have a 5 bolt mounting flange bolt pattern and this kit includes both the left hand and right hand brake assembly. These self-adjusting brakes will not require periodic manual adjustments like standard brakes....
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  • Replacement Hubs With 5 on 5 Bolt Pattern
  • We do have hubs available with a 5 on 5 bolt pattern; they are each compatible with 3,500 lb axles, have inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649 and fit wheels that are between 13 inches and 15 inches. You need to take apart your old hub in order to find out if you have the same bearing numbers. If so hub and drum assembly # AKHD-550-35-K will work; for an idler hub assembly # AKIHUB-550-35-K would be the right choice. I've added a link to video reviews of these parts for you...
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  • Timbren Axle-Less Suspension System Compatible with Jeep for Matching Trailer
  • For the Timbren Axle-Less kit compatible with the bolt pattern of 5 on 5 like a Jeep, you would need the 2,200 lb capacity # ASR1THDS03. The spindles on the Timbren system are a little larger than their thru-axle counterparts, so the 3,500 lbs # ASR3500S06 will only fit larger hubs that won't have the bolt pattern you seek. Using # ASR1THDS03, you can then use the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 3,500-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 5 on 5 # AKIHUB-550-35-EZ-K or the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly...
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  • Will the Bearing Races be Installed in the Kodiak 12 Inch Hub and Rotor Assembly
  • The bearing races will be installed on the Kodiak Hub and Rotor Assembly, # KHR12D. The bearings for the hub are # 25580 for the inner and # 15123 for the outer. We offer a Bearing Kit, # BK3-100, that includes both bearings # 25580 and # 15123, but also the grease seal 10-36 with an inside diameter of 2.25 inches.
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  • Replacement 5 Spoke Utility Hub for Home Built Trailer
  • The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-174-5UC3 referenced in your question uses the same inner bearing # 25580 as your existing hub assembly but a slightly different outer bearing # 15123. With that being said, this particular outer bearing has the same 1.25 inch inner diameter as the # LM67048 that your current hub uses, so this hub will still fit the spindle on your trailer. This Dexter Hub also uses the same 10-10 grease seal, so this hub will work great and there should be no...
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  • Disk Brake Kit and Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Recommendation to Fit Dexter 5,200 lb Axles
  • Yes, the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR526DS that you referenced will fit a Dexter 5,200 lb axle like yours as that is what it was designed to fit. This kit has stainless steel and dacromet coated components so it will last a very long time and will be very reliable. The bearings needed are sold separately but are # 25580 and # 15123. The EOH kit you would want is the HydraStar EOH Actuator Kit part # HBA16-252-82. The Hydrastar actuators are the most reliable and best performing actuators...
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  • Can a 14125A Trailer Wheel Bearing Replace a 15123 Bearing
  • No, the # 14125A bearing has different applications than a # 15123 bearing. The outer diameters are different. Both are readily available bearings. If you have a 15123 bearing then you would need that same bearing as a replacement. If you can provide the inner and outer bearing numbers on your existing hubs, I can make some recommendations for replacement parts. I have included a video on bearings for you.
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  • Replacement Hubs and Electric Brakes for 5,200 Pound Axle on Trailer
  • The Trailer Hub Bearing # 15123 and # LM67048 both feature the same 1.250 inch inner diameter, however the outer diameter differs between the two units. This essentially means they will both fit the same spindle size on a trailer, but they will work with different hubs. To replace the hubs on your trailer that use the # 15123 outer bearing, I recommend the etrailer.com Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-6-K. This hub and drum assembly is designed for 5,200 pound axles, features...
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  • Timbren Axle-Less Suspension System with Lift for Single 5200-lb Axle Trailer
  • Timbren axle-less trailer suspension # TASR5200S03 is rated for 5200-lb applications, has 4-inch lift spindles and includes brake flanges. With this kit you can use 8-on-6-1/2 bolt pattern hub/drums that use inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 15123 or # LM67048. You can use galvanized hub/drum # 8-219-50. For electric brakes you can use left- and right-hand kit # AKEBRK-7-SA which are self-adjusting and that work with 14-1/2, 15, 16, and 16-1/2-inch wheel diameters. Some...
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  • Recommended Trailer Hub for the # 15123 Outer Bearing
  • I have a recommendation for you, however, you will not be able to use the # 15123 bearing with your current hub. The 15123 bearing will fit on your spindle, but it will be too large for the hub and race. I have a few recommendations for you. If you have trailer brakes, I recommend the etrailer Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly 5,200 lbs. and 6,000 lbs. Axles # AKHD-655-6-K. This hub and drum will work with electric or hydraulic brakes. If you have an E-Z Lube Spindle, you will want the etrailer...
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  • How to Determine the Replacement Hubs for a 2002 Magic Tilt Trailer
  • To determine what the correct replacement hubs are for your Magic Tilt trailer there is a little bit of information that we will need. We will need to find out inner diameter of both the Inner and Outer Bearings as well as the inner diameter of the Grease Seal. To ensure that your current wheels are compatible with the hub that you get you will need to make sure that you also have the appropriate bolt pattern on your hub. If you remove one of your current hubs you should be able to see...
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  • Parts Needed to Convert a Triple Axle Trailer from Electric Drum to EOH Disc Brakes
  • The best braking system for towing a trailer that has brakes would be an Electric-Over-Hydraulic (EOH) system like what you are referencing. I do have a solution for you, but we do not have any of the products that you mentioned. Hydraulic disc brakes are superior to drum brakes and when you couple them with the accurate braking of a proportional brake controller like the Tekonsha P3 # 90195 it is hard to find a system that is more efficient. What I recommend doing is using an EOH actuator...
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  • Can a Hub with Outer Bearing 15123 and LM67048 Both Fit Same Spindle
  • The inner diameters of the LM67048 and 15123 both are the same (1.250 inches). That means that a hub with either bearing in the outer bearing would fit your spindle. The part # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K would fit your axle.
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  • Replacement Bearings 2788 and 1779
  • Bearing # 2788 has an inner diameter of 1.50-inches and fits race # 2729. Bearing # 1779 has an inner diameter of 0.938-inches and fits race # 1729. We do offer all of these bearing and race parts and if you wish you can install new bearings in your current hubs. The idler hub you referenced, part # AKIHUB-655-6-K, uses different bearings that have different dimensions. The bearings in this hub are inner bearing # 25580 (1.75-inch inner diameter) and outer bearing # 15123 (1.25-inch...
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  • Determining Correct Replacement Bearings and Seals for 6,000 Pound Axles
  • Since the current hubs on your trailer use the # 25580 inner bearing, there are a few possible options for the exact outer bearing replacement. Most likely, the outer bearing you need will be # 14125A, # 15123, or # LM67048. These all feature the same 1.250 inch inner diameter, meaning they will all fit the spindle on your trailer. However, they each will have a slightly different outer diameter, which is what needs to match up with your current hubs. Since you cannot read the number...
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  • Bearing and Seal Recommendation for a 6k Dexter Axle
  • You will need to pull off your current hubs to remove the bearings and seal to get the numbers so that we can determine for sure what you would need. But MOST likely the correct kit you would need would be the part # BK3-100. This kit comes with outer bearing # 15123 and inner bearing # 25580 and seal 10-36 # RG06-070. This is the most common bearings and seals used on 6k Dexter axles, but you need to verify your bearing and seal numbers to be certain.
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  • Grease Seals for AL-KO T52 Axle with #42 Spindles and Bearings 25580 and 15123
  • Your AL-KO T-52 axle has # 42 spindles that use hub assemblies with a # 25580 inner bearing and # 15123 outer bearing. The grease seal most often associated with this bearing set is part # GS-2250DL for 1 seal or # RG06-070 for a pair.
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  • Grease Seals for AL-KO T52 Axle with #42 Spindles and Bearings 25580 and 15123
  • Your AL-KO T-52 axle has # 42 spindles that use hub assemblies with a # 25580 inner bearing and # 15123 outer bearing. The grease seal most often associated with this bearing set is part # GS-2250DL for 1 seal or # RG06-070 for a pair.
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  • Determining Axle Weight Capacity in Relation to Bolt Patterns, Brake Size and Bearings
  • There are commonalities between bearing combinations, bolt patterns and brake sizes for certain axle capacities. Starting at the low end, axles with a 2,000 lb capacity can use a 4 or 5 bolt hub with a brake size of 7 inches x 1-1/4 inches using inner and outer bearings # L44643 or # L44649. Axles with a 3,500 lb capacity can use a 4,5 or 6 bolt hub with a brake size of 10 inches x 2-1/4 inches, with outer bearing # L44649 and inner bearing # L68149. For axles with a capacity of...
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