Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal

Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal

Item # BK3-110

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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BK3-110 - Standard Bearings,Bearing Kits etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 15123 and 25580
  • Race 25520 and 15245
Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal part number BK3-110 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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  • Reviews (43)
  • Q & A (31)
  • Videos (2)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK3-110


Features:

Kit Includes:

  • One Inner Bearing and Race
  • One Outer Bearing and Race
  • Grease Seal
  • Cotter Pin
  • EZ Lube spindle washer


Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
15123
25580
GS-2125DL
2.125"


BK3-110 Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings,10-10 GS-2125DL Seal







Video of Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal - BK3-110

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (43 Customer Reviews)


- BK3-110
by:

product shipped same day and arrived quickly. Team was helpful and responsive to questions to make sure I was ordering the correct set. the outer washer was to small for my axle but I used the existing washer so no real issue. 515158



- BK3-110
by:

A good and complete kit. I must say the bearings are not as well made as the ones I replaced. Overall I am happy with these and would buy them again. 186340



- BK3-110
by:

I am very pleased with the service I received from etrailer.com. With very little information I provided, part numbers for only three parts, they were able to help me track down all other parts needed to replace the bearings in my trailer. Very excellent service. 160537



- BK3-110
by:

Nice to buy all the necessary parts at one shot. Only would like to see USA made bearings even if the price is greater, I would pay. Only surprise is all the parts come in a plastic bag, I would prefer to see the bearings shipped better than this. 43018



- BK3-110
by:

Well pleased with this product as a complete unit verses individual pricing... The only issue I saw was packaging of bearings, and would recommend individual wrapping of parts. In my line of work and bearing experience, it is not good to have bearings shipped in same bag or allowed to be metal to metal causing them to rub each other or shipped inside their races. Reason for this is possible bearing and/or race dings or damages that could occur during delivery of these items. We all know that all of the known shipping companies do not take the best of care of our items even if they were stamped "Do Not Throw" or "Fragile". Other than packaging of bearings, I am very pleased with the experienced I have with etrailer! 77369



- BK3-110
by:

Thanks guys for the great service and website. It was very easy to research items and cross reference items. Used regular shipping and had it in 3 days. Very HAPPY!! 360846



- BK3-110
by:

Etrailer's web site is a snap to navigate and very easy to identify and order the high quality replacement parts for my boat trailer. I received email update when the package shipped with estimated date for delivery, which ended up being 5 business days. Outstanding! I highly recommend Etrailer. 19523



- BK3-110
by:

The bearings and seals fit properly in my 2006 Eclipse Attitude, the price was good and shipping time was reasonable. 4 stars because they are not U.S. made but you get what you pay for. 405091



- BK3-110
by:

Quick service and looks like a quality product at reasonable price. I bought this for a spare set to keep in travel trailer while on the road. 472664



- BK3-110
by:

I ordered a bearing kit and seals for my work boat trailer which gets 10 to 15 thousand miles per year. I'm very pleased with the performance of all the parts and most of all with the price. Thanks Etrailer for quality products at a reasonable price! 328136



- BK3-110
by:

Extremely helpful person made sure that I had the right kit for my non-standard trailer axles. Package arrived on time with all parts correct and present. Very satisfied and recommend highly. 411094


Comments

Still working perfectly. No problems at all.

Kirk P - 07/26/2018

41495

- BK3-110
by:

I received the parts (bearing kits)on time and very easy online ordering process. I would recommend them as I have ordered with them previously with excellent results 614152



- BK3-110
by:

All the necessary parts for full bearing replacement in my wheel hub. Quality parts delivered to my door in a timely manner. I order all trailer supplies from etrailer. 611452



- BK3-110
by:

Carry as a spare set. Have not had to u se. 599022



- BK3-110
by:

Great value fast shipping 579198



- BK3-110
by:

Dealing with eTrailer is seamless. You get what you order in a timely manner. In this case these bearings and seal fit my trailer well. I am happy and will order from them again. 527877



- BK3-110
by:

Just as orders. Perfect. 516376



- BK3-110
by:

All parts ordered arrived in good condition. Would have liked to see bearings packaged individually other than all in one envelope. Thanks 512315



- BK3-110
by:

Easy to use web page was exceeded by the speed of shipment and the product was just what the Doctor ordered! Thanks! 486111



- BK3-110
by:

My Bearing kits arrived in just 5 days. Great service. They shipped the same day I ordered. All are in Great condition. 449115


Comments

Great product, Everything is rolling smooth

Ronald - 11/06/2018

45449

- BK3-110
by:

Items as described. Fair Price. 405634



- BK3-110
by:

Great products for the price. Exactly what I needed. Great service from etrailer. 402791



- BK3-110
by:

Best trailer parts store in the world. Jim in Pittsburgh,Pa. 373564



- BK3-110
by:

I have used this product for two years now and have not had any issues or problems with the product. I am very pleased with the selection and sevice I recieve from Etrailer. Mark 341748



- BK3-110
by:

Easy to install and great quality. Installed on Dexter EZ Lubes. Been on for close to a year with no issues 265981



- BK3-110
by:

Perfect fit and replacement instructions really helped ! 242364



- BK3-110
by:

Everything as advertised. 215377



- BK3-110
by:

Parts receive fast and well packaged. 215288



- BK3-110
by:

The inner bearing was exactly what I needed and fitment was great. The kit I chose was a shot in the dark due to the only identifying number was on the inner bearing race. The outer bearing was wrong and the lock washer wouldn't work but that's nobody's fault. Turns out the local part store had the exact outer bearing I needed, a 1987 Mercury uses the same outer bearing. Etrailer.com has the best deal around for a bearing kit!! 209871



- BK3-110
by:

Great service and good product ,shipping was pretty fast but should be free lol 204450



- BK3-110
by:

Excellent product, great price, fast sh ipping. 190005



- BK3-110
by:

the bearing are good and were delivered in a timely and the saved me money 168674



- BK3-110
by:

GREAT SERVICE !!!! 166971



- BK3-110
by:

Fast shipping ! Good Parts ! 158754



- BK3-110
by:

order was shipped super fast thanks g uys!!! 148393



- BK3-110
by:

I'm very happy with my purchase, and the free shipping. 135174



- BK3-110
by:

Great 120186



- BK3-110
by:

Just what I needed. Great on line instructions and great delivery. Thanks 90846



- BK3-110
by:

Bearings, races, and grease seal all matched up perfectly to my trailer! Very happy, so far, with results and would recommend this vendor to all. 84046



- BK3-110
by:

Everything went smooth. Items were delivered quickly. The phone rep was able to help me figure out the correct items needed which made this job easy to complete! Will definitely order from etrailer in the future with three boat trailers to maintain! 78543



- BK3-110
by:

Product was what I expected. One of the bearing cage was bent, called etrailer and was sent another the same day. 77766



- BK3-110
by:

Seems to be a great product, great service with ETrailer and super fast shipping. I will continue to buy here. 63100



- BK3-110
by:

Fast delivery and great price Thanks 9431


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Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


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    view full answer...

  • Most Common Bearing Kit for 6K Trailer Axle
  • The most common bearings on a 6K axle are inner bearing part # 25580 and outer bearing part # 15123, along with either grease seal # GS-2250DL (2.250-inches inside diameter) or # GS-2125DL (2.125-inches inside diameter). Please refer to the linked article for more on trailer bearings and kits. We have bearing kits with these parts combinations. Kit # BK3-100 has the larger seal and kit # BK3-110 has the smaller seal. Kit # BK3-200 that you referenced is typically used for 7K axles and...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Seals for an Old Frehauf Trailer with 15123 Outer Bearings
  • You will most likely need the Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal, item # BK3-100, or Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings,10-10 Seal, item # BK3-110 for your replacement parts, since your outer bearing is a Timken 15123. Races for the these bearings are the # 15245 Race, for 15123 Bearing, and the # 28521, Race, for 28580 Bearing. The only way to really tell which bearings, races and seals you need for sure is to remove the hub and record all of the part numbers you can find....
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  • Grease Cap Needed For Trailer Hub/Drum With Bearings Number 25580 Inner And Outer 15125
  • In looking at kits for this bearing combination, there is a good chance you have a 2.446 inch outer diameter grease cap like # F001520. I recommend checking the inner diameter of your hub/drum where this cover sits to confirm size. A digital caliper like # PTW80157 is the best way to measure.
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  • Grease Seal Needed for a 1980s EZ-Loader Boat Trailer with Two 6,000-Lb Axles
  • The Trailer Hub Bearing, part # 25580, uses a Trailer Race, part # 25520, which has a outside diameter of 3.265 inches. The Grease Seal, part # 21325 is the only grease seal I have that will have an outside diameter of 3.269 inches and an inside diameter of 2.125 inches. The # 25580 inner bearing can be used with either a # 10-10 seal which is a double lip seal, or a # GS-2125DL seal which is a single lip seal. Both of these seals have an outside diameter of 3.376 inches and an inside...
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  • Trailer Bearing Kit to Replace a 15123 Outer bearing, 25580 Inner Bearing and 2.125 Inch Seal
  • Based on the seal measurement, it sounds as if the best fit is going to be the Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings,10-10 Seal, # BK3-110. The seal that is included in this bearing kit measures 2.125 (2-1/8) inches. The inner and outer bearing numbers remain the same as the BK3-100 kit you have referenced. You want to be certain to get the correct kit to avoid potential problems down the road. I recommend taking a look at the other set of bearings/seals on the other hub to double check,...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Replacement Bearings for a Trailer
  • To find the correct replacement bearings for your trailer, you will need to find the numbers stamped on the bearings themselves. These numbers are an industry standard regardless of the brand. With these bearing numbers, I will be able to find replacements if they are available.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael H
Expert Research:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Updated by:
Adele M
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Alexander C

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