Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing

Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing

Item # 15245

lowest price pledge

Retail:$3.08

Our Price: $2.36

You Save: 23%
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Orders above $99 qualify for Free Shipping

Shipping Weight: 0.19 lbs

Quantity: 
In Stock
Race for 15123 Bearing
zoom in icon
zoom out icon
Comment field cannot be left empty.
Name field cannot be left empty.
Please enter a valid email address.

Thank you! Your comment has been submitted successfully. You should be able to view your question/comment here within a few days.

Error submitting comment. Please try again momentarily.

pop out icon replay 360 icon
horizontal rotate icon

Product Images


  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 2.441 Inch O.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 15123
  • Race 15245
Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 15123 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing part number 15245 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (29)
  • Q & A (17)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 15245

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 15123 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 2.441"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): 15123


15245 Replacement Trailer Hub Race





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 20LK

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 21FSLE

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 21SALE

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 22LK

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 22SK

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 23FB

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 23SB

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 24BD

2015 - 2017 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 24FBW

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 24LK

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 24SK

2014 - 2016 Forest River Sandpiper Select Fifth Wheel 25RLS

2014 - 2016 Forest River Sierra Select Fifth Wheel 25RLS

2006 - 2006 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS DLX Fifth Wheel 26.5RL

2005 - 2005 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS Fifth Wheel 26.5RL

2006 - 2008 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS Fifth Wheel 26.5RLBG

2009 - 2009 NuWa Hitchhiker LS Fifth Wheel 26.5RLBG

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 26BD

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 26DB

2013 - 2017 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 26FBW

2012 - 2013 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 26FLA

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 26SK

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 26WD

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Iconic TT Toy Hauler 2715SF

2015 - 2015 Forest River Wildcat Fifth Wheel 272RLX

2010 - 2010 Forest River Sierra Travel Trailer 273RB

2015 - 2015 Forest River Wildcat Fifth Wheel 275CKK

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 27FS

2011 - 2011 Heartland RV ElkRidge Fifth Wheel 27RLSS

2018 - 2018 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 27SA

See All Vehicle Fits



Video of Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for 15123 Bearing - 15245

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (29 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with 15123 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- 15245
by:

I went to two auto part stores and they didn't have parts in stock nor did they want to spend time finding the the seal for me. I came home discourage that I was going to have to replace the old bearings and seals. I decided to check on line and with the help of etrailer.com, I was able to find the part numbers I needed. I was nervous that the were not going to fit, but they arrived today and appear to be the correct sizes. Shipment was very quick and items were well packed. Great site to do business with and I recommend them to anyone that will listen. Thanks for a great site. 166199



- 15245
by:

Very fast on delivery , great company to buy trailer parts from. Thank you 560588



- 15245
by:

Excellent: big issue to me: salesperson knew what she was selling. Bearings are for later when we check the brakes and bearings in June on the trailer 469572



- 15245
by:

Great company to work with. Not disapp ointed! 441610



- 15245
by:

Couldn't ask for a better product or service. From placing my order to delivery everything went exceptionally well. Thank you etrailer. 433194



- 15245
by:

I ordered a set of 4 inner and outer bearings, races, seals, and dust caps for my fifth wheel along with a power cord. The price from etrailer was excellent and the product was shipped in a very timely manner. My only complaint is the seals, bearings and races were not individually packaged and rattled around loose during shipment in the large box sized to hold the power cord. 424479



- 15245
by:

great product for great price, almost 70% less then my local parts store. 419040



- 15245
by:

Exactly what i ordered and shipped propmtly.Thank You 416645



- 15245
by:

The trailer I'm rebuilding had obsolete bearings, but using a caliper I was able to find everything on etrailer. My local trailer supply place was ridiculously over priced so I went with etrailer. Thank You for the quick delivery. 404408



- 15245
by:

Great fit and performance at a reasonable price. 401907



- 15245
by:

product was just what I needed working great 382414



- 15245
by:

Used these on a homemade flatbed reusing an old camper axle from the 50's the numbers on the old bearings did not cross to anything current, fortunately E Trailer has the specs online a few measurements with a caliper and you are in business. Thanks E Trailer 357447



- 15245
by:

Excellent products at reasonable prices and Great Service! 350115



- 15245
by:

Exactly what I needed, excellent price, super fast shipping. 347631



- 15245
by:

I have an older boat trailer and was able to find all the parts I needed to get it back on the road on etrailer.com 323312



- 15245
by:

They worked just the way i would expect. 291750



- 15245
by:

Did not use (spare parts) 289957



- 15245
by:

Real good products, exactly what I ordered. Thanks 278013



- 15245
by:

Prompt, accurate service as usual. We're currently away from delivery location and won't be back to install the parts for another 3 weeks. 276846



- 15245
by:

The service was great. It was nice to talk to a real person who knew what you were talking about and get the right part. 229181



- 15245
by:

I ordered 4 bearing and races from Etrailer.com at after 8pm. I was notified at 9:38pm that the order had been shipped. choose 3 day shipping but received in day and a half. Can't beat this kind of service!! Plus the product was exactly what I ordered will be doing more business with Etrailer in the future. 229175



- 15245
by:

You guys are the best, I've already recommended you to several of my friends. 213472


Comments

Im pleased to in form you that those parts as well as everything Ive ordered since are all performing perfectly. I will continue to use your services for my trailer needs.

Matt G - 08/05/2016

20001

- 15245
by:

Good bearings. 193344


Comments

Product is still fine.

Mike L - 05/26/2016

18004

- 15245
by:

Great company to buy parts from. Communicates to customer, fast shipper, order arrived as ordered with no issues. 180847



- 15245
by:

Was able to find and get everything I needed. Very happy with the products and service. 140769



- 15245
by:

Exactly as described but was not very well packaged for shipment 77553



- 15245
by:

Product was just as I was expecting, good quality and a perfect fit. 69046



- 15245
by:

Once I got the order right- worked out well 58143



- 15245
by:

Race fit as expected, unknow if made in USA 44076


29
29

Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps


  • How to Find Replacement Trailer Hub Assembly for Dual Axle Trailer with 6 on 5-1/2 Bolt Pattern
  • To ensure you get the correct replacement hubs for your trailer, you will need to find either the bearing numbers on your existing hub assembly or you can measure the spindle if these cannot be found. The bearing numbers should be stamped onto the bearings themselves. I have attached an image that shows what numbers or dimensions are needed. When measuring the spindle, I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to get the most accurate measurement possible. For example, the...
    view full answer...

  • Recommendation For Hub Upgrade For Mobile Home Axle
  • Mobile home axles, hubs, and parts are designed for more of a one time use. Most of the time, replacement parts and options are not available. However, since you found the bearing numbers (Inner Bearing Item # 25580 and Outer Bearing Item # 15245) then Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly, Item # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K, might work. Before going forward with this option, there a few things to consider regarding right fit of Item # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K. First, This assembly is specially designed for...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seals for Trailer
  • The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # 15123 and .750 inch outer bearing # LM11949, will use races # LM11910 and # 15245. For seals, that inner bearing often is used with the Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) # RG06-070 which have an inner diameter 2.250 inches of and outer diameter of 3.376. I recommend using a caliper like # PTW80157 to get a precise measurement to confirm fit.
    view full answer...

  • How to Measure Grease Seal's Inner Diameter
  • The Replacement Inner Trailer Hub Bearing for 15123 is item # 15123. It has a inner diameterof 1.250. The matching race is # 15245. Since your other bearing measures 1.750" it is a match with, Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 Item # 25580. The matching race is # 25520. The above bearings and races are included in bearing kits # BK3-100 and # BK3-110. You will need to measure on your spindle where the seal sits for its inner diameter location, that is marked "B" on the...
    view full answer...

  • Bearings and Grease Seals Needed for Kodiak Stainless Steel 6-on-5-1/2 Trailer Hub KH42655S
  • Kodiak Stainless Steel 6-on-5-1/2 Trailer Hub # KH42655S does not include but uses inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 15123. Races # 25520 and # 15245 ARE included with the hub.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing For Timken 15123 Trailer Hub Bearing
  • We do offer the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing, part # 15123 for your trailer but I was unable to find a cross-reference for the Timken 09067 bearing you stated you need. You can measure the inner diameter and see if there are any bearings from the attached pages that would work as a replacement for you. We also offer the matching race for the 15123 and that is part # 15245.
    view full answer...

  • Is Spindle Available For Kodiak 12 Inch Hub And Rotor Assembly For 5,200 - 6,000 Lb Axles
  • We do not offer a spindle that will work with part # KHR12D. This hub is designed to fit 5,200 - 6,000 lb axles and wheels that are 15 inches diameter or larger. You can contact your local axle retailer and ask about a spindle that will work with this Hub. The inner bearing (sold separately), is part # 25580 and has an inner diameter of 1.750. The outer bearing (sold separately), is part # 15123 and has an inner diameter of 1.250. The inner race (included), part # 25520 has an outer...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearings for an AL KO 5,200 lb Axle
  • The AL-KO 5,200 lb axle uses the inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing part # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-090. For races you would want # 25520 and # 15245.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Seals for an Old Frehauf Trailer with 15123 Outer Bearings
  • You will most likely need the Bearing Kit, 15123/ 25580 Bearings, 10-36 Seal, item # BK3-100, or Bearing Kit, 15123/25580 Bearings,10-10 Seal, item # BK3-110 for your replacement parts, since your outer bearing is a Timken 15123. Races for the these bearings are the # 15245 Race, for 15123 Bearing, and the # 28521, Race, for 28580 Bearing. The only way to really tell which bearings, races and seals you need for sure is to remove the hub and record all of the part numbers you can find....
    view full answer...

  • What is the Difference Between 1.25 Inch Trailer Bearings
  • The short answer is Yes, bearing # 15123 is slightly larger and stronger than # LM67048 and they use different races which means they are not interchangeable. Bearing 15123 uses race # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches and bearing LM67048 uses race # LM67010 which has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The size and strength differences are due to the fact that bearing # 15123 is used in a higher weight capacity hub. Bearing # 15123 is the outer bearing for a hub for...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Recommendation with an Inner Diameter of 1.25 inches
  • The bearing part # 15123 that you referenced has an inner diameter of 1.25 inches. The matching race for this bearing though is part # 15245 which has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches. It sounds like you actually need bearing part # Lm67048 and race # LM67010 since you said you need an ID of 1.25 and an OD of 2.328.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearings and Races for Single Axle Trailer with National Oil Seal 412920
  • Sounds like you will need the # 15123 bearing and # 15245 race for that bearing. For the # 25580 bearing, you'll need the # 25520 race. For the oil seal you would need part # 9103309 which is the exact same as your 412920. We do not have a full kit of this so they are all sold separately. I have linked all the above mentioned products to this page for your convenience.
    view full answer...

  • Availability of Bearing Race to Match Bearing Number LM67048
  • The matching race for the bearing part # LM67048 that you referenced is the part # LM67010. This has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The race we have that has an outer diameter of 2.441 inch is the part # 15245 which is designed for the bearing # 15123. The # 15123 happens to have an inner diameter of 1.25 inch like the # LM67048 that you mentioned as well.
    view full answer...

  • Will the Bearing Kit for Disc Brakes # DBRKHW6 Fit a Hayes T52 5,200 lb Axle
  • To determine whether or not the Bearing Kit for Disc Brakes # DBRKHW6 will fit your Hayes T52 5,200 lb axle you will first need to pull a hub and locate the inner and outer bearing numbers as well as the number for your grease seal. The kit includes inner bearings # 25580 and outer bearings # 15123 with their races, grease seals # GS-2250DL, as well as drive-in grease caps # F001520 (with a 2.446" outer diameter), and 10 of our 1/2" trailer wheel lug nuts # CE11051. If you cannot...
    view full answer...

  • Parts Needed for Hub and Drum Assembly for Rebuilt Trailer
  • If you have hub and drum assembly # 8-174-5UC3, which you referenced, the assembly comes with the bearing sand seals. However, the replacement parts are: # 25580 Inner bearing # 15123 Outer bearing # RG06-090 seals # RG04-060 Grease Cap # 15245 Race # 916N lug nuts The lug nuts won't need washers. We do not sell backing plates separately. If you need backing plates and brake shoes, you are better off pricewise to purchase a new brake assembly like # AKEBRK-7R-SA and # AKEBRK-7L-SA. If...
    view full answer...

  • Proper Bearing Replacement Based on Both Inner Diameter of Bearing and Outer Diameter of Race
  • With the inner diameter of your bearing being 1.250 inches, there are currently 5 options as you stated. The best way to determine fit is to find your race number or to measure your bearing race inside your hub. The outer diameter of that race will help us confirm the proper bearing fit. For instance, if the outer diameter of the race is 2.441 inches, then we know the race is # 15245 and the bearing needed is # 15123. I've attached a photo to assist.
    view full answer...

  • Does the 6,000 lb Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum # 42656 Come with Races
  • The Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum # 42656 does include the races # 25520 and # 15245 for the inner # 25580 and outer # 15123 bearings. If you don't already have the bearings and grease seal # GS-2125DL then we actually have all of them in the kit # BK3-110 which also includes the races. I have attached some videos that you can check out as well.
    view full answer...





  • Why etrailer.com?

    At etrailer.com we guarantee:

  • Highest quality trailer bearings races seals caps for the best price.

    Our Lowest Price Pledge ensures you will never overpay for the parts you need.
  • Real product know-how.

    We make sure that the products we sell are what we say they are, and that they work the way they are supposed to work. Get real advice from a real person who has the knowledge and expertise needed to solve your problem.
  • Most detailed, accurate trailer bearings races seals cap information available.

    Because we take providing accurate product information seriously, we take our own detailed product photos, demo videos and installation videos, as well as verify measurements, instructions, and vehicle fit information.
  • Installations, made easy.

    We love helping people and have the most highly-trained customer service, hands-on experience, step by step videos and installation instructions.
  • Fast shipping.

    Your order is automatically routed to get out of our warehouse and to your door as quickly as possible. Receive free shipping on orders over $99.
  • Personalized service for life.

    We provide one-on-one, personalized service from the ordering process through the life of your product.
  • Trusted since 1946.

    We've been serving customers since our parts store first opened in 1946 and continue to be recognized by our customers, our vendors and third parties for exceptional service.
  • Returns Policy

    Satisfaction Guarantee
    Need to return an item? No problem. Please read our Returns Policy for more information.

Info for this part was:

Photos by:
Theodore B
Installed by:
Jeff D
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W

At etrailer.com we provide the best information available about the products we sell. We take the quality of our information seriously so that you can get the right part the first time.