Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580

Item # 25580

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Our Price: $11.72

Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Shipping Weight: 0.79 lbs

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps 25580 - 1.750 Inch I.D. - etrailer
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 part number 25580 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (96)
  • Q & A (349)
  • Videos (2)
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  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 25580

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 6000 lbs Axle
  • 7000 lbs Axle
  • 8000 lbs Axle
  • 9000 lbs Axle
  • 10000 lbs Axle
  • 1.750 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 25580
  • Race 25520

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.750"
  • Matching race (sold separately): 25520
  • Application:
    • Inner bearing for #42 spindle
    • Inner bearing for 8,000-lb and 9,000-lb axles
    • Outer bearing for #99 spindle


25580 Replacement Bearing







Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 25580 - 25580

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (96 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- 25580
by:

We just keep extra ones just encase one goes out. 445822



- 25580
by:

Works perfectly quality item. 513750


Comments

working great, fit perfect, no issues.

Marvin - 06/02/2019

56027

- 25580
by:

All parts arrived timely and fit well. System works fine and I am very satisfied. THANKS AGAIN 714452



- 25580
by:

Great service, was hoping for faster delivery, lug nuts I ordered won’t work they tell me but it’s all good thank you 707979



- 25580
by:

Bought new axel parts and brakes bigger wheels for my boat trailer. My existing axel was 20 years old and never was adequate for the weight it hauled causing wheel bearings to wear out and the chance of loosing a wheel. This was the most economical way to repair as a new trailer was so expensive. All the parts I needed were available and went together beautifully. Very happy with etrailer, this is not the first time I have ordered from them great option for any parts you need. 700485



- 25580
by:

This was an easy buying experience. The sales representative was extremely helpful and very patient. I am not the end user for the items I purchased so I can not speak to that but, the service was excellent! 700030



- 25580
by:

Perfect fit for the Dexter axle. 683445



- 25580
by:

Excellent service. Website easy to navigate to find specific part sizes. 681932



- 25580
by:

This place is awesome to order from correct parts first time. I ordered parts about noon and they were on my step the next day. 679221



- 25580
by:

Great product, exact match to the original bearing. 672956



- 25580
by:

Hi I got all my stuff and packaging was great. I ordered these parts for back up if I have issues on the road with my RV you seem to have everything I need and great product with great price. Thanks 671830



- 25580
by:

Made my life easier 665644



- 25580
by:

Bearings were received in a timely way, installed and have1500 miles on them with no problems. I use etrailer for all my trailer needs and have always gotten good product and good service. 652420



- 25580
by:

Good parts 604197



- 25580
by:

The right part 604192



- 25580
by:

The right bearings 604189



- 25580
by:

Good parts and the right part 603884



- 25580
by:

The right parts 604183



- 25580
by:

Fast, free shipping for a great price. Exact match for all parts 601852



- 25580
by:

Looks great will see how it preforms. 600196



- 25580
by:

Good bearing. Good price. 588279



- 25580
by:

No issues after a year. Although not a daily driver... 586244



- 25580
by:

Product as described 585841



- 25580
by:

Good kit brake! kit Easy to install, I like. ?? 584890



- 25580
by:

Perfect service all the way around peri od. 574675



- 25580
by:

Great bearings, great price. Installed these in two of my 6 hubs. So far, after 5,000 miles, I'm not seeing any difference between these and the Timken bearings I have in the other hubs. 562301



- 25580
by:

Very fast on delivery , great company to buy trailer parts from. Thank you 560585



- 25580
by:

Wish they were American built like Timk en. 548428



- 25580
by:

Perfection 505623


Comments

No issues at all . System work great and I like the conversion . Theses where actually the first set I installed here at my shop and have since done 3 more and soon to do another . I will continue to shop and purchase with etrailer

William - 05/07/2019

54955

- 25580
by:

Excellent...... OEM Part. 502180



- 25580
by:

We bought a used 35 ft. 5th wheel this spring and wanted to replace all wheel bearings & seals as well as brakes to start R Ving with good maintenance. The wheel bearings & seals that I ordered from trailer.com arrived very quickly and exactly what I ordered. Preston-Customer Service was awesome and took his time looking up all the correct bearings and seals that I needed. I would order from etrailer.com again and I will continue to ask for Preston to help me with my orders! 497226



- 25580
by:

Fast delivery by etrailer, easy to install. Thanks for the outstanding service. 494970



- 25580
by:

Used this bearing on a car hauler that had mobile home axles on it, fit perfect and good quality. I bought it due to the fact the original caught fire, and was rendered useless. The people at Etrailer spoke with me on the phone and helped me to find the correct parts needed to get it back on the road. I would buy again, and will continue to buy parts from etrailer as needed. 494866


Comments

We sold the trailer 3 months after this review, but everything was working correctly and I have not heard anything from The gentleman who bought it, so have reason to believe it is still working smoothly.

Peter D - 04/10/2019

52732

- 25580
by:

I ordered two cones and two cups. The shipment arrived with one of the cones way too big. After a lot of back and forth, I finally received the proper bearing. I appreciate them sticking to it. 470400



- 25580
by:

Excellent: big issue to me: salesperson knew what she was selling. Bearings are for later when we check the brakes and bearings in June on the trailer 469131



- 25580
by:

Awesome! Everything worked great and great quality. 443187



- 25580
by:

Great value 441614



- 25580
by:

As usual quick delivery and items as de scribed. 431093



- 25580
by:

fast and good thanks 428546



- 25580
by:

Great product. 423519



- 25580
by:

great product , fast delivery 426203



- 25580
by:

Exactly what i ordered and shipped propmtly.Thank You 420219



- 25580
by:

very satisfied 406683



- 25580
by:

Right price, good quality. I have put a couple thousand miles on since the installation and all is good. 402625



- 25580
by:

Fit like a glove! 396115



- 25580
by:

PERFECT FIT... WILL BUY FROM AGAIN 390134


Comments

Great product no issues.

MUNSTER - 06/11/2018

39589

- 25580
by:

I have had nothing but good results from these people and their products so far I have rebuilt two trailers with their parts and all is well with both of them Thank you all. 387913



- 25580
by:

I purchased several products. They arrived as expected. No surprises. Prices are reasonable. Most products have a video review and other helpful product information. 381162



- 25580
by:

received in good time, was what i ordered, well done 379905



- 25580
by:

Worked Great with the the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator for Disc Brakes - 1,600 psi just make sure you find out if you need the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Adapter Module for Ford and Chevy Brake Controllers - HBA-CAM 372715


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation to fit 7,000 lb Dexter Axles
  • For your Dexter 7k axles the Kodiak Kit part # K2HR712D would fit and work well. Your EZ lube grease caps from your current hubs will fit the hub/rotors and for bearings you would need # 25580 and # 14125A and then for the seal you would want the part # RG06-070.
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  • Wheel Bearings, Grease Seals and Electric Drum Brakes for 2002 Fleetwood Pride 5th Wheel Trailer
  • We can help you with replacement bearings, grease seals and electric drum brakes for the 6K axles on your 2002 Fleetwood Pride fifth wheel camping trailer. The best value in a pair of self-adjusting 12 x 2-inch electric drum brakes that will work great on your axles comes from Axle Teknology kit # AKEBRK-7-SA. You will need two kits to have four new brakes, two left-hand and two right-hand. These have the common 5-bolt mounting pattern. When you wire them you can use either wire for...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seal for Dexter 10k Trailer Hub
  • The bearings you need are # 387A for the inner bearing, # 25580 for the outer bearing, and for the seal # 10-51 since we know you have a 10k Dexter axle. For brake assemblies you'd need the part # 23-450 for the left hand side and part # 23-451 for the right hand side. For a hub you'd need # 8-430-5UC3.
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  • Pre-Greased Replacement 5-on-5 Hub for 3500-lb Dexter Axle
  • You can confirm the weight rating of your Dexter axle by removing one hub and pulling its bearings. The included photo shows how part numbers usually appear on bearings. The specific bearings used will tell you the axle's weight rating. Just refer to the linked article that lists the bearings commonly used for various axle weight ratings. A new hub must use the same bearings as the original hub in order to fit on your spindles. A 3500-lb axle commonly uses bearings # L68149 and #...
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  • Can 6 Lug Hubs be Replaced With 8 Lug Hubs on Toy Hauler
  • It is likely you can replace the 6 lug hubs with 8 lug hubs on your 2018 Livin' Lite Quicksilver 8.5x26FBR with 4,400 lb axles so long as you can ensure compatibility with your spindle. To do this you will need to know your bearing numbers and grease seal inner diameter. The easiest way to do this is call the manufacturer with your VIN, as they should have this information due to how new your toy hauler is. From the information you gave there is a pretty good chance you will have inner...
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 7k Axle
  • In order to choose the correct replacement bearing kit of your 7,000 lb axle, you will need to know both the inner and outer bearing numbers, as well as the inner diameter of the grease seal, which you can find using a digital caliper. The most common bearings on 7k axles are inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 14125A. If those are your bearing numbers and the inner diameter of your grease seal measures 2.125 inches, you would want bearing kit # BK3-210, which includes the bearings,...
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  • Replacement 6-on-5-1/2 Idler Hub Kit to Replace Hub 82655
  • You can use 6-on-5-1/2 idler hub assembly # AKIHUB-655-6-EZ-K for your application. This hub kit includes bearings 25580 and 15123 along with races and a grease seal.
    view full answer...

  • Bearings and Races for 7,000 Pound Trailer Axle
  • The most common bearings and seals for a 7,000 pound axle are # 25580 inner bearing, # 14125A outer bearing, # 25520 inner race and # 14276 outer race. The grease seal can vary, and will usually either be the # GS-2250DL, which has a 2.250 inch inner diameter and 3.376 outer diameter, or # GS2125DL with a 2.125 inch inner diameter and 3.376 inch outer diameter. We do also offer complete bearing kits for this axle. For the GS-2250DL grease seal, you can use the Kit # BK3-200. For the...
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  • Parts Needed to Convert From Electric Drum Brakes to Electric-Hydraulic Brakes on 2018 Raptor 355TS
  • We have all the parts you need to swap from electric drum brakes to electric over hydraulic brakes on your 2018 Keystone Raptor 355TS. The first thing you will need are a hub and rotor disc brake kit. I was able to find that your '18 Raptor 355TS has a pair of 7,000 lb Dexter axles so you will need two of the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 7,000-lb Dexter Axle # K2HR758D, which are a hub with an integrated rotor. Since this kit does not come with bearings or grease seal you will need to order...
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  • Hub and Drum Assembly for AL-KO T-52 Axle
  • Based on my research, your AL-KO T-52 Axle has # 42 spindles that use hub assemblies with a # 25580 inner bearing and # 15123 outer bearing. You will just want to determine the bolt pattern you are needing as well as the axle capacity, as this can vary between different models. I have attached an article that will help you determine the bolt pattern on your existing hubs. The etrailer.com Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-6-K will work for 5,200 pound and 6,000 pound axles and...
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  • Recommended Hub and Drum Assembly with 5/8 Inch Studs for 8,000 Pound Dexter Axle
  • The 008-285-11 number you found on your existing Dexter hub does refer to the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum # 8-285-11, however as you mentioned, this particular assembly uses 9/16 inch wheel studs. This is the case with all of our grease lubed hub and drum assemblies that are designed for 8,000 pound axles. We do have the Redline Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-285-10UC3-A, which will work as a replacement on your axle. This is an oil bath hub and drum that uses the same # 25580 inner...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for Dexter Axle 10K Axle with Oil Bath
  • I can give you a few different options but to know the exact bearings, races, and seals you need for an oil bath on your 10K Dexter Axle you will need to take some measurements on your spindle using a digital caliper like part # 301-17068 or by finding the part numbers on these pieces. Attached is a photo to show you where the part numbers are located as well as where you will need to measure on your spindle. One set of common bearings/seals are inner bearing # 387A (2.250" inner diameter)...
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  • How to Find Replacement Trailer Hub Assembly for Dual Axle Trailer with 6 on 5-1/2 Bolt Pattern
  • To ensure you get the correct replacement hubs for your trailer, you will need to find either the bearing numbers on your existing hub assembly or you can measure the spindle if these cannot be found. The bearing numbers should be stamped onto the bearings themselves. I have attached an image that shows what numbers or dimensions are needed. When measuring the spindle, I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to get the most accurate measurement possible. For example, the...
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  • Bearings and Seal Used for AL-KO 7290 Trailer Hubs for #99 Spindles
  • The 7290 that you see is a casting number. It is found on AL-KO hubs that fit #99 spindles. I found that the bearings used are # 28580 which would be the inner bearing and # 25580 which would be the outer bearing. For the seal use # 91030.
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  • Kodiak Disc Brake Kit That Fits 2018 Arctic Fox 295T with 7,000 lb Axles
  • The Kodiak 7k disc brake kit part # K2HR712D that you referenced does fit your 2018 arctic fox 295T that has 7k axles. Sounds like you already have the bearings needed of # 25580 and # 14125A but you will also need a new seal # RG06-070 for each hub. This kit is Dacromet coated as well which means it will fight corrosion. The next big piece of the puzzle will be an actuator. For that the best option is the HydraStar part # HBA16 as it's our most reliable and fastest acting option. For...
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  • Will Water Damage Magnets if Electric Brakes are Installed on Boat Trailer
  • Electric brakes, like the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Assembly # 23-458 that you referenced, are actually becoming more and more common on boat trailers. They used to not be so common because water and electricity don't play nice together, but if you unplug the trailer before backing it into the water you will be just fine. Any trailer components that are submerged under water will wear quicker than parts that are not, but if you make sure to hose down your boat trailer...
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  • Replacement Hub for Tie Down Engineering 81091
  • Yes, the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly # 8-213-51UC1-EZ will work as a direct replacement for your Tie Down Engineering 81091 hub. Based on my research your 81091 hub is rated to be used on 6,000 lb axles, has a 6 on 5-1/2" bolt pattern, uses Inner Bearing # 25580, Outer Bearing # 15123 and Grease Seal # GS-2250DL. This is also what the galvanized Dexter Hub # 8-213-51UC1-EZ uses so it will work as a replacement.
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  • Idler Hubs to Fit a Mobile Home Axle on a Gooseneck Trailer with Bearings 25580 and LM67048
  • We do have some idler hubs, without the drums, that fit bearings # 25580 and # LM67048. All of them have a 6 lug bolt pattern. We have two, part # 8-213-5UC1 for standard axles and # 8-213-5UC1-EZ for E-Z Lube axles, that use grease seals 10-10, part # RG06-090 and have a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern. The other is an agricultural hub and is more likely what fits your mobile home axles. It's a 6 on 6 bolt pattern and uses the same bearings but instead fits a 42385 grease seal, part # GS-2250DL....
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  • Replacement Hubs With 5 on 5 Bolt Pattern
  • We do have hubs available with a 5 on 5 bolt pattern; they are each compatible with 3,500 lb axles, have inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649 and fit wheels that are between 13 inches and 15 inches. You need to take apart your old hub in order to find out if you have the same bearing numbers. If so hub and drum assembly # AKHD-550-35-K will work; for an idler hub assembly # AKIHUB-550-35-K would be the right choice. I've added a link to video reviews of these parts for you...
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  • Parts Recommendation for Converting to Electric/Hydraulic Disc Brakes on 2017 Montana 3160RL
  • Since you have Dexter 7,000 lb axles the Kodiak Disc Brake kit part # K2HR712D is the correct kit. You'd need a kit for each of your axles that you want disc brakes on. This kit is also Dacromet coated which means it will resist corrosion for a very long time. You'll also need bearings part # 25580 and # 14125A as well as the seals part # RG06-070. Then for an actuator kit with brake lines and everything else you'll need I recommend the HydraStar Electric-Hydraulic Actuator w/ Line...
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  • Replacement Hubs With Bearings 25580 and LM67048 and Brakes Which Fit
  • To replace your idler hubs with a hub and drum for electric brakes, what you can do is use Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-201-5UC3 and replace its grease seal with # GS-2250DL, which has the same outer diameter as your current seal so it will work for you. This hub has a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern so finding wheels to fit should be no problem. The idler hub assembly would be # 8-213-5UC1. The hub and drum takes 12" brake assemblies, and the electric brakes that will work are #...
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  • Replacement Timken Trailer Bearings, Races, and Grease Seals
  • I do have the correct replacement bearings for you but we do not carry Timken products. The parts we have that match the parts numbers you have provided are as follows: Inner Bearing: part # 25580 - I.D. 1.750" Outer Bearing: part # 2585 - I.D. 1.313" Inner Race: part # 25520 - O.D. 3.265" Outer Race: part # 2520 - O.D. 2.615" Grease Seals: part # RG06-070 - I.D. 2.250" O.D. 3.376" When replacing these bearings I recommend using the UltraLube Biobased LMX Red Grease - Industrial...
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  • How to Pick Out Bearing for 10,000 lb Dexter Axle
  • We have the bearing part # 387A which is over 2 inches in inner diameter and is seen on 10,000 lb axles but I'd have to know exactly what your spindle dimensions are to know for sure what you'd need. If you can use a digital caliper like the # PTW80157 to get me the exact dimension of the spindle where the bearings and seal ride I'll be able to let you know which parts you need. A very common bearing combo for Dexter 10k axles is # 387A and # 25580. Races needed are # 382A and # 25520....
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  • Recommendation For Hub And Drum With Outer Bearing LM67048
  • Based on your information, it sounds like you have either a 4,400-lb or 5,200-lb trailer axle. Both can have an outer bearing like Item # LM67048 but the inner bearing and hubs will be different. For a 4,400-lb axle, the inner bearing will be like Item # L68149 and for a 5,200-lb axle it will be like Item # 25580. I do not know the bolt pattern of your wheels but the most common pattern is 6 on 5-1/2. I have also attached an article on "how to measure bolt patterns" in case you need...
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  • Replacement Hubs for 8000lb Lippert Axle
  • Yes, the Dexter Hub Assembly # 8-285-9UC3 will fit on your Lippert Axle, but after checking with Lippert it looks like the 8k axle that you're using originally came with a hub with 5/8" stud diameter, where this Dexter Hub has 9/16" studs- both hubs use inner bearing # 25580 /outer bearing # 02475 . In order to avoid having to change out your wheels as well, I recommend going with the Redline Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-285-10UC3-A . It is also an oil lubricated hub, has 5/8" studs and will...
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  • Which Hubs Fit the Timbren Heavy-Duty Axle-Less Trailer Suspension # TASR35HDS06 with 2" Lift
  • The hubs that fit the Timbren Heavy-Duty Axle-Less Trailer Suspension # TASR35HDS06 use inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # 15123, and a grease seal with a 2-1/4" inner diameter. For regular hub use part # AKIHUB-655-6-EZ-K but if you are wanting to incorporate brakes then you want hub and drum part # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K with the brakes # AKEBRK-7-SA for electric or # AKFBBRK-7 for hydraulic. I have attached some installation videos that you can reference as well.
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  • Bearings and Seal Needed for Lippert 8K Axle
  • From what I could find online it looks like the Lippert 8K axles use inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # 02475, and a grease seal that has an inner diameter of 2.250". If you are using a Kodiak disc brake kit like part # K2HR712D for 7K axles then it would make sense that this wouldn't fit correctly as this kit comes with an outer bearing # 14125A which is about 0.040" larger as you have found. If you have bearings for the 8K axle but you are using 7K rotors then all you need to do...
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  • How to Determine the Replacement Hubs for a 2002 Magic Tilt Trailer
  • To determine what the correct replacement hubs are for your Magic Tilt trailer there is a little bit of information that we will need. We will need to find out inner diameter of both the Inner and Outer Bearings as well as the inner diameter of the Grease Seal. To ensure that your current wheels are compatible with the hub that you get you will need to make sure that you also have the appropriate bolt pattern on your hub. If you remove one of your current hubs you should be able to see...
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  • Recommended Replacement for Reliable CL 1000 Calibers
  • I have a solution for you, however, we do not carry a direct replacement for Reliable brake components. I recommend one of the Kodiak disc Brake Kits, like # K2HR526D. This kit includes 2- 12" brake rotors with 6 on 5-1/2 inch wheel bolt pattern and 5 bolt brake flanges for 5,200 to 6,000 lbs axles. This disc brake kit will work with 14-1/2,15, and 16 inch wheels. Checking the wheel bearing numbers will confirm which kit will work with your axle spindles. This kit uses # 25580 for...
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