1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
  3. Caps
  4. E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  5. 1.98 Inch O.D.
2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1

2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1

Item # DC200L-DCRP
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Our Price: $4.88
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Shipping Weight: 0.27 lbs
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DC200L-DCRP - E-Z Lube Grease Cap TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1 part number DC200L-DCRP can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - DC200L-DCRP

  • Caps
  • E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  • 1.98 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde

2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug


Features:

  • Fits EZ lube spindle
  • Construction: 22 gauge, zinc coated steel
  • Dimensions: 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18"
  • Includes rubber plug


DC-200L + DC-RP 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1





Video of 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1 - DC200L-DCRP

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (180 Customer Reviews)

2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug

- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Not installed yet but they look great 439985



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

As usual with etrailer, my order was shipped quickly and all the items were exactly as they were ordered. 656407



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Interesting mix between a axle cover and buddy bearing . it really fills with a lot of grease jury’s out if I like them have done very little road work with the loaded trailer 725119



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

I couldn't find a cap to replace one that had come off of my horse trailer every one was too big or too small. This fit perfectly. 617870



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Best Price I could find for these, should of bought a few extra although I doubt they will ever fall out. The fitment was pretty extreme on my trailer, it took me a while to get one of them on but I dont think these caps have to do with that issue. It is good thought because they wont fall off. I did have one of the rubber ends rip after 500 miles of towing, not sure if too much grease caused it to rip or just got a fluke one. Would recommend order a few pairs of the just the rubber caps to keeps as spares in case this happens, you lose one, etc. 454996


Comments
Great idea, Brian! The replacement rubber cap Item DC-RP can be found on our site, as well.
-- Laura E - 11/28/2017

31297

- DC200L-DCRP
by:

These are great grease caps for my EZ-Lube hubs. They are a little tight when putting them on. They are very tight and the caps will probably never leak grease or fall off. Etrailer has a tool to make the installation easier. The tool drives the grease cap on easily without denting it or causing the cap to be distorted. I use a rubber hammer when I use the tool to pound the caps onto the hub. 599798



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

These caps looks top quality. They fit very well. Rubber cap insert fit tight. Looks like they will do the job very well. Thanks 90557


Comments
Still holding up. Holds grease in and no leaks. Very good quality. Want have to replace for a while longer. Thanks.
James R - 01/17/2015

8685

- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Perfect fit plus needed one but purchased four, it pushed my cost up to receive free shipping 415030



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Rubber didn't last 1 season. 524655



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

I was not able to insert the dust / water cover into the wheel hub , due to it needs to have a slight roll to to the inside so that it doesn't hang up on the wheel hub and the ones I bought did not have it. So I just the rubber cover . My dust/ water cover was still good but the rubber seals was needing to be changed . 407458



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

It works as it should. Can’t beat that. 802141



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Product was a perfect fit, fast delivery however a bit costly on shipping. 800829



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Best website I have ever came across with their photographs, descriptions and videos of their products. Good quality of parts and excellent service plus free shipping of my order. 779542



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Great products at great prices with excellent customer service! 773036



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Purchased set of Dexter Nev-R-Adjust electric brake assemblies - completely assembled on a new backing plate - for 3500 lb Dexter axle on a Casita 17'. Since drums were off, included new bearings, races, seals, & caps along with partial drum grinding. As an old timer, I have rebuilt many brakes, bearings, etc. This job went as slick as any I have ever done. As soon as weather cooperated, done in 2 short sessions. etrailer was, as always, prompt on delivery with correct & complete parts. It doesn't hurt that they also provide extensive instructions for the first timer. Maybe not the cheapest but definitely the best parts & service. 766411



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

no problems 711452



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

amazing quality for price - very happy !!!! 703106



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

ordered part for trailer and arrived shortly after . 697465



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

The first time experience with Etrailer has been good on stock availability. Delivery was met. Overall the communication with Etrailer was excellent. The install videos on the items were very useful. I definitely will look at Etrailer first for any future needs. 692431



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Fantastic value for these dust cap, I saved a lot for the exact same item found in local stores 690552



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

High quality ,fast shipping,good product. Would recommend to all. 681450



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

WOW been a year now! There hasn't been any problems with the products for my Aluma ATV trailer. The 12 volt electric brake magnets to the dust cap covers you cannot beat the quality of these items and the excellent price paid for these. etrailer products and the great customer rep (George J) always following up. 680887



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Quick shipping with no damage. Is as listed and works great . Thanks etrailer.com 673147



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Works great 671774



- DC200L-DCRP
by:

Just what I needed. Price was right, shipping a bit high. 671663


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Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • How to Remove a Trailer EZ Lube Grease Cap or Dust Cap
    EZ Lube Dust Caps, like # DC200L-DCRP, have a rubber plug that can be removed to access the zerk fitting. The rubber plug can be removed by gently prying it up with a flathead screwdriver. If your dust cap is in good condition and you want to avoid getting dents in the cover, you can use the Dust Cap Driver Tool to remove the cap. Simply slide it over the dust cap and then use the leverage created by the handle to gently pry on the cap in different directions until it begins to wiggle....
    view full answer...
  • Outside Dimensions of Trailer Dust Cover
    The best way to determine which dust cap to consider is by taking apart one of the hubs and to get the numbers off the outer bearing and race. You can also get the hub bore inner diameter using dial calipers to get that measurement. I have linked you to our grease cap product page. The dimensions for the Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug, part # DC200L-DCRP, that you referenced in your question are. Outside diameter is 1.99 inches. The inner diameter of the top hole for the rubber plug is...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement EZ Lube Hub Dust Covers for 3700 lb UFP Axle on EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    I managed to track down your hub, thanks for providing the part number for the existing dust cover. Your hub uses a # L44610 race which has a 1.980 OD. Therefore, the # DC200L-DCRP dust cap you'd referenced will indeed work for you as the dust cap and outer race share the same outer diameter.
    view full answer...
  • What Type of Grease Cap is Recommended for Fitting Trailer Hub with Grease Fitting on Spindle
    You have an EZ lube spindle so you would not need to use a Bearing Buddy. If your hub bore is 1.98 inches (where the cap installs into the hub), then the correct cap for your application would be the part # DC200L-DCRP that you referenced. The rubber cap of this cover can be removed to allow you access to the grease fitting you mentioned.
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Replace Grease Cap for Trailer Hub
    You will want to use a dial caliper or micrometer to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer to determine what size cap would be needed. Check out the picture I attached that shows this measurement being taken on a hub. I attached a link to all the grease caps we offer, once you know what size you need check out the link I attached to see all the sizes we offer.
    view full answer...
  • Will Bearing Buddy Protectors # BB2047 Work with 25x52 mm Wheel Bearings on a Harbor Freight Trailer
    For your 25x52 mm wheel bearings, the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB2047 is a compatible fit. This product fits a 2.047 inch hub bore and will provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection by keeping water and dirt out even when completely submerged.
    view full answer...
  • How to Grease Boat Trailer Wheel Bearings on Trailer that Has Rubber Flange on Grease Cap
    It is a good idea to inspect and lubricate your trailer bearings at least once per year at the start of the season. If your trailer has a grease cap like # DC200L-DCRP but does not have EZ-Lube spindles with a zerk grease fitting to allow use of a grease gun it may be that these caps were added in place of standard grease caps. In this case you will need to remove and re-pack your bearings with fresh marine grease like # L11404 as outlined in the linked video and article. If you wish...
    view full answer...
  • Availability of Replacement Rubber Plugs for # DC200L-DCRP EZ Lube Grease Cap
    You sure can, they're sold in pairs as part # RG04-010 or individually as part # DC-RP.
    view full answer...
  • Cause for Grease on Front Tires of Motorhome That Just Had New Brakes Installed
    When packing a hub's bearings with grease prior to reinstalling it on the spindles (which would be perfectly normal after servicing the brakes) it is possible to over-fill the hub with too much grease. Its human nature: if some grease is good (it sure is) then more "must be better". More often than not this accidental over-filling of the hubs with too much grease occurs with the do-it-yourselfer but it can happen to the best of us, even a pro. When a hub is over-filled with bearing grease...
    view full answer...
  • Available Sizes of Hub Dust Cap Close to 2-Inch Diameter
    In an E-Z Lube hub dustcap like # DC200L-DCRP the size nearest to your required 51.2 mm size (2.01-inch) is this item you referenced and also 2-piece kit # RG04-040. Since the caps can get bent/distorted from removal you'll want to measure the hub's inside bore rather than the outside diameter of the remaining cap to get the most accurate dimension. The same is true when measuring for grease seals; always measure the hub bore rather than the old part. In the next size up we have Bearing...
    view full answer...
  • What Would Cause Grease to Appear All Over Trailer Wheels on 3 Trailers
    It sounds like the seals have failed and the grease from the bearings has come out during travel. Also it is possible that if you have an EZ lube axle with a grease zerk at the end to add grease but use a single lip seal, the pressure can blow out the single lip seal. If you have mixed incompatible greases they can break down and could some how evacuate the hub. You will want to inspect the seals on the trailers to see if they are the issue. I can tell you what replacement seals...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Dust Cap for Lippert 4,400 lb EZ Lube 176207 Axle
    I reached out to Lippert and my contact was able to confirm that the hub bore on you 176207 4,400 lb axle is 2" which means you can use the Replacement Dust Cap # DC200L-DCRP or get it in a 2-pack as part # RG04-040.
    view full answer...
  • Comparing Trailer Dust Caps # DC200L-DCRP and # RG04-040
    The difference is the quantity. If you just need 1 you would use # DC200L-DCRP. If you need to replace 2 you would use # RG04-040.
    view full answer...
  • EZ Lube Grease Cap Recommendation for the Dexter Trailer Hub Assembly # 8-258-5UC1
    The Dexter Trailer Hub Assembly, # 8-258-5UC1, uses a grease cap with a 1.986 inch diameter. You could use the Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug, # DC200L-DCRP, that you referenced, but that only comes with one grease cap and plug. You may also be interested in the Grease Caps, # RG04-040, which is the same as # DC200L-DCRP, but comes with two grease caps and plugs.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine the Correct Replacement Grease Cap for a 2013 Outback Trailer
    The best way to determine which dust cap will work for your 2013 Outback trailer is to measure the inner diameter of the hub where the dust cap presses in. This measurement will have to be precise because dust caps come in many different sizes. I recommend using a dial caliper or another precise measuring tool. Once you have the inner diameter, simply select the dust cap that has the same or a slightly larger outer diameter. For example, if the inner diameter of the opening of your...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Size Grease Caps for a Southwest Kendall Trailer
    In order to determine the correct size grease cap, the best thing to do would be to take apart one of the hubs and get the outer bearing and race numbers. You can also get the hub bore inner diameter using dial calipers for the most accurate measurement. I have included a video on removing a hub below. This will determine the correct size you need whether it is the DC200L-DCRP, # RG04-040, or another size. I have included a link to our grease cap main page below. I went out to the warehouse...
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  • What Brands of Bearings are Available
    TruRyde and Redline are the two brands of bearings that we carry. According to my contact at TruRyde they come with a limited 3 year warranty.
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  • Bearing Buddies for a Diamond B Trailer with 1.98 Inch Hub Bore
    For a 1.98 hub bore you have several options for bearing protectors. From Bearing Buddy you can use # BB1980A-SS for stainless steel, # BB1980A for chrome-plated, or # BB1980T-SS for stainless if you need a model that threads in. And from Kodiak you could use # KREB1980AC.
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  • EZ Lube Dust Caps for CE Smith Trailer Axle Beam with EZ-Lube Standard Spindles
    If you're using standard grease dust caps for the CE Smith Trailer Axle Beam with EZ-Lube Standard Spindles # CE33201GA then you'll definitely want to upgrade to the 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug # DC200L-DCRP. Simply remove the rubber plug and you have access to the zerk fitting on the spindle. Please note that this is a quantity of 1 so you'll need to order 2; one for each side of the axle.
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  • Can E-Z Lube Hub Be Used on Non-E-Z Lube 2K Standard Axle with BTR Spindle
    You can absolutely use the Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,000-lb E-Z Lube Axles # AKIHUB-545-2-LFEZ-2K on your trailer with a standard axle/spindle. All the components are exactly the same. The only difference is the grease cap that comes with the EZ-Lube hub, # DC200L-DCRP, has a removable rubber plug, designed for easy access to the grease fitting on an EZ-Lube Spindle. Since your spindle does not have a grease fitting on the end, you would just leave the plug on the cap and use it...
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  • Dust Cap with Over 1 Inch Depth with 1.98 Inch Diameter
    We don't have the "normal" grease caps that will fit your assembly, however, the 2" Lubed Dust Cap & Rubber Plug - 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18" - Qty 1 # DC200L-DCRP will work just fine for you. Even though you don't have the zerk fitting on your spindle, these grease caps will work very well of you. The rubber cap will still keep dirt and debris out as well as moisture. Any of the Bearing Buddy protectors for your 1.98 like # BB1980A will also work for your application.
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  • Kodiak Disc Brake Assembly for 3,500 lb Axle Compatibility with Spindle Dimensions
    The Kodiak Disc Brake Assembly - 10" Hub/Rotor - 5 on 4-1/2 - 3,500 lbs # K2HR35DKG will fit spindles that measure 1.063 inches at the outer bearing, 1.378 inches at the inner bearing, and 1.719 inches at the seal location. It also fits brake flanges that have the 4 bolt mounting pattern. Unfortunately the photo you sent with dimensions did not come through, so I can't see if they are compatible. If you have further questions please let me know.
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  • Can Galvanized Dexter 3,500 lb Hub 8-248-50 be Used on EZ Lube Spindle
    Yes, the Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly # 8-248-50 that you referenced is perfectly compatible with EZ lube spindles. The only difference between the hubs that are EZ lube and non-EZ lube is the cap style. So for an EZ lube style cap that fits this hub you'd just need the part # DC200L-DCRP and you'd be set.
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  • Grease Cap for Dexter 8-248 Hub Assembly
    If you have trailer hub assembly 8-248-50UC1-EZ the correct replacement grease cap is # DC200L-DCRP. This cap is for E-Z Lube spindles and measures 1.99" x 1.40" x 1.18"; I've added a link to a video review of the cap for you to take a look at as well.
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  • What Might Cause a Grease Cap to Keep Coming Off of the Hub Assembly On a Boat Trailer
    I would recommend to remove and reinstall the complete trailer hub assembly to make sure all of the parts are installed properly. I am including a link to a video of how to remove and reinstall a trailer hub on a boat trailer. This video will show you how to take off the hub assembly and how to properly put it back on and tighten the spindle nut. The spindle nut on the end of the spindle should be held on with a cotter pin or tang washer. If the cotter pin or tang washer is missing that...
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  • EZ-Lube Spindle for L44649 Bearing and 10-60 Grease Seal
    On the spindle # R104BTREZ, the 1.25 inch refers to the diameter of the stub, not to any of the bearing surfaces, which might be what is confusing you. (See photo). If you currently have the # 8-271-7UC3-EZ hubs that use the L44649 inner and outer bearing, the # R104BTREZ would be the compatible EZ Lube spindle. Part # BK1-150 would be the correct bearing/ seal kit that uses the double-lip seal which we recommend for the EZ-Lube spindles. For your hub bore, you would use the grease cap...
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  • Finding Replacement Bearing Sizes for 2006 EZLoader Trailer
    I spoke with EZLoader, who gave me your bearing sizes. The inner bearing is # LM48548, which measures 1.375 inches. Its matching race is # LM48510. The outer bearing is # L44649, which measures 1.063 inches. Its matching race is # L44610. You can also purchase a grease seal set, # BB60002. We also offer grease caps for 1.98 inch hub bores, such as the standard grease cap # RG04-020, and the EZ Lube grease cap # DC200L-DCRP. I've attached several review videos of these products...
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  • What is the Bore Size of the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 84557UC3
    A 1.98 inch inner diameter bore is pretty common on trailer hubs. If you were to measure the bore diameter of the Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly, # 84557UC3, using a dial caliper, you would get 1.96 inches. This hub requires a grease cap with a 1.98 to 1.99 inch diameter. The grease cap that comes with this hub actually measures 1.99 inches. If you are looking for a replacement dust cover, you have many options. For a standard dust cover, you can use part # F001518 or # RG04-020....
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Info for this part was:

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