Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

Item # L68111

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Race for L68149 Bearing
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  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • 2.361 Inch O.D.
  • Bearing L68149
  • Race 68111
Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing part number L68111 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (58)
  • Q & A (61)
  • Videos (2)
  • Photos
  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - L68111

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 2.361"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): L68149


L68111 Replacement Trailer Hub Race



This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2015 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12RBSOR

2016 - 2016 Forest River Flagstaff Hard Side Camper 12RBSOR

2013 - 2015 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12RBTH

2016 - 2016 Forest River Flagstaff Hard Side Camper 12RBTH

2012 - 2013 Forest River Flagstaff Camper 12SDTH

2013 - 2014 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Nomad Retro Travel Trailer 130B

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 130B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 131B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 131B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Nomad Retro Travel Trailer 131B

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 131B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 131B

2016 - 2016 Forest River Wolf Pup Travel Trailer 13CJ

2012 - 2012 Skyline Aljo Travel Trailer 140

2012 - 2012 Skyline Bobcat Travel Trailer 140

2012 - 2012 Skyline Nomad Travel Trailer 140

2016 - 2016 Keystone Springdale Summerland Travel Trailer 1400FD

2013 - 2014 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2013 Skyline Mountain View Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Nomad Retro Travel Trailer 140B

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 140B

2013 - 2013 Skyline Wagoneer Travel Trailer 140W

2019 - 2019 Coachmen Clipper Cadet Travel Trailer 14CR

2018 - 2018 Coachmen Clipper Travel Trailer 14CR

2017 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 14DB

See All Vehicle Fits


Video of Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing - L68111

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (58 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L68111
by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. Etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos. 604445



- L68111
by:

Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed. 572863



- L68111
by:

great product , great price and fast shipping THANKS 565375



- L68111
by:

no problems 563182



- L68111
by:

Great product 556993



- L68111
by:

The item is what I expected. 556640



- L68111
by:

The item is what I expected it to be. 556635



- L68111
by:

Order was correct and delivered in 2 days. Items worked fine and were as described. 544812



- L68111
by:

Great product . Easy to install 529134



- L68111
by:

After ordering a second time (the address was incorrect) the items worked as needed. 522415



- L68111
by:

Great service. Every part was a perfect fit! 505111



- L68111
by:

It is just as described and went on perfectly!! I always like getting things that fit right the first time and look to be quality made. The two that were on my trailer were in very bad condition (JUNK), and these solved my problem very easily. Also, they are at a reasonable price. +++++ all the way!! The staff that helped me are fantastic in knowledge of there product and SERVICE! One of the best parts is the Fast shipping! A PLUS Thanks all the way to everyone! 457787



- L68111
by:

Product seems to be ok. I think your bearings and races should be wrapped individually to keepo from damaging them o. My shipment were just thrown in a box with crumpled paper on top. 452263



- L68111
by:

OEM bearings went out on recently acquired trailer, and part numbers obscured with age and damage. etrailer.com was very help in identifying and supplying correct replacement parts. First class service, high quality parts and timely delivery. Repaired and back in service an hour after parts delivery. Couldn't have gone smoother. Will definitely use etrailer.com in future. 440852



- L68111
by:

Excellent transaction. Parts arrived on time as expected, were exactly what I ordered, and fit my trailer perfectly. Would definitely do business with etrailer again. 436463



- L68111
by:

Fit and seal perfectly. 433717



- L68111
by:

Great people to work with. Excellent prices on all trailer parts. Thanks 429138



- L68111
by:

Does what it is supposed to do. 389933



- L68111
by:

Nice product very helpful customer ser vice 380794



- L68111
by:

It fit as it should and works. I haven't put many miles on it yet but so far so good. 360908



- L68111
by:

I was in need of replacement parts for my car trailer. I went on line and found e-trailer and reviewed their site, found everything I needed and ordered. The parts arrived in a very timely fashion and everything appears to be of high quality. The cost was also very competitive with other sellers on line. I will definitely be using e-trailer.com in the future should I require more trailer supplies. Thanks for the wonderful experience. Darrel from LaCrosse, Wi 346742



- L68111
by:

Ordered bearings and races for both hubs on my bass boat. Quality seemed better than local auto parts bearings. Also purchased other items on this order and was very pleased with products and customer service I received from etrailer. Informative, fast shipping, and courteous company to work with. Top notch!! 341789



- L68111
by:

Good price and on time. Replacements for my Chalet camper. 338504



- L68111
by:

Fits perfect. Price and shipping very good too. 310286


Comments

Still going strong!

Greeny - 10/24/2017

29883

- L68111
by:

just what I needed to repair my trailer bearings, and it fit like a glove. Installation was simple and easy, and everything is working great. Delivery was timely, and most important, correct! Your product, attentiveness/responsiveness met my expectation. Job well done! 306816



- L68111
by:

All the bearings, races, and seals I have purchased from etrailer have been good quality and have never failed. I have used them in my travel trailer for many years. 301534



- L68111
by:

Fit perfect. Great price. 299762



- L68111
by:

race is ok 294696



- L68111
by:

Parts arrive some days earlier than expected. Helped with project greatly. All parts were as described and worked out well. Will use etrailer again. 292008



- L68111
by:

My order was delivered complete and actually sooner than expected. Products, service, and prices all excellent. 291625



- L68111
by:

The items arrived as ordered and were delivered on time. 282661



- L68111
by:

as advertised 281785



- L68111
by:

Bearing Race fit as expected and performance as expected 273263



- L68111
by:

Products just as advertised 256503



- L68111
by:

Item is very affordable. Customer service from strainer is one of the best you will find. They go out of their way to make sure your order is what you requested 254460



- L68111
by:

Nice 252269



- L68111
by:

Not on a trailer at all. But it was great to so easily find the bearing by dimensions. It is a single bearing under a 6 1/2' tall by 42" diameter lazy susan pantry cabinet in our kitchen. Completely loaded and working great. 248668



- L68111
by:

Good deal 247546



- L68111
by:

fast delivery,fit perfectly 236735



- L68111
by:

Good quality. Exactly what it's supposed to be. Very fast shipping. 220781



- L68111
by:

Completely satisfied with product & ser vice 220349



- L68111
by:

All parts are as I ordered packed well and sent in a timely matter. Will order from company when I need more parts thank you for the service. 216538


Comments

No problems on any parts i bought thank you!

anthony p - 08/08/2016

20104

- L68111
by:

Installed the new race and bearing easily. Hauled the trailer loaded 900 miles. All went well. 200967


Comments

Ive put about six thousand miles on the trailer since installing them. Everything is fine. Thankyou

Eldon - 06/04/2016

18304

- L68111
by:

These are economical & as good as it ge ts. 200491


Comments

Working fine

Raymond S - 06/03/2016

18280

- L68111
by:

Great service and I was amazed at how fast my order came from the moment I pressed the order button to my door speedy service very happy 196869



- L68111
by:

orderer sat received wed , what i ordered ,to install later,person on phone was friendly and helpful ,thanks and would use again. 187964



- L68111
by:

Cheaper and better product than previous ones ordered from axle manufacturer. 186993


Comments

Perfect.

L.G. - 04/20/2016

17520

- L68111
by:

Great prices and fast shipping. 179159



- L68111
by:

product as described, assembly went wel l. 161203



- L68111
by:

Bearings and races came on time and were exactly what I had ordered. Worked well. 158242


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Replacement Trailer Bearings and Seals for 4,400 Pound Dexter Axle
  • You'll want to make sure your bearing numbers and dimensions match but for a Dexter 4,400 pound axle you should need inner bearing # L68149 which is 1.378 inches with race # L68111, and outer bearing # LM67048 that is 1.250 inches with race # LM67010. The seal is # RG06-050. If you need the entire hub assembly with a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern it's # 8-407-5UC3-EZ.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Seals and Bearings for 4,400 lb Axle
  • We have the bearings and seals you would need for your 4,400 lb axle. It would be inner bearing # L68149 with race # L68111, outer bearing # LM67048 with race # LM67010 and grease seal # RG06-050. You can find the prices of these parts on their product pages. I've added links of video reviews of these products for you to take a look at as well.
    view full answer...

  • Bearings and Seal for a 3,500 lb Dexter Torflex Axle
  • I took a look at the manual, and the outer bearing for a #10 Torflex Dexter axle would be outer bearing # L44649 and outer race # L44610; inner bearing # L68149 and inner race # L68111; and seal # 58846. That would make bearing kit # BK2-100 the correct choice for your axle and includes each of these parts. For a Bearing Buddy you would want to use # BB1980A. I have included links to video reviews of each of these products for you to take a look at.
    view full answer...

  • Inner and Outer Bearing and Grease Seal for Older Trailer
  • We carry bearings, races and a seal that are very, very close to your measurements but not exact. For example, the inside bearing we carry is # L68149 and it has a 1.378" inner diameter; the correct race for this is # L68111. For the outer bearing we carry # L44649 which has a 1.063" inner diameter and the matching race is # L44610. Finally there is the grease seal, for which we carry # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688". You could get all of these parts together...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal for the EZ Loader Kit 300-015907
  • The bearings, races, and grease seal that are included in the EZ Loader bearing kit 300-015907 that you referenced are found as parts # L68149, # L68111, # L44649, # L44610, and # 168255TB.
    view full answer...

  • Brakes, Bearings and Grease Seal for Dexter 8-247 Hubs
  • Thank you for that info and we have everything you need. An 8-247 hub and drum, which is the same as Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 84546UC3 uses Inner Bearing # L68149, Outer Bearing # L44649, Inner Race # L68111, Outer Race # L44610 and Grease Seal # 58846. These parts are all available in Bearing Kit # BK2-100. For your brakes the correct replacements are Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Left Hand # 23-26 and Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Right Hand # 23-27....
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  • Replacement Bearing # L68149 for Boat Trailer
  • We do offer hub assemblies that come complete with inner and outer bearings, races and seals. But if you know your existing bearing part number you can order the exact replacement. For bearing number L68149 you will order part # L68149, race # L68111 and grease seal # RG06-050. For grease you can use LubriMatic Marine Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease # L11404. I have linked an article and video that will be helpful to you in replacing your bearings.
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  • Replacement Bearings, Seals, and Races for Unique #84 Spindle/Hub
  • According to the part numbers you gave it looks like you need outer bearing # L44649 with the matching race # L44610, inner bearing # L68149 with the matching race # L68111, and then the grease seal # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688" and outer diameter of 2.332" which fits unique #84 spindle/hub combinations. This seal has the same dimensions of a 16667 seal that is commonly used on a vehicle. The bearing kit # BK2-100 that you referenced has all of the bearings and races...
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  • Recommended Replacement Bearings and Races for Dexter # 8-248 Hubs
  • Good news! I spoke to my contact at Dexter and he told me all the information about your old style 8-248 hub. A great replacement bearing and race kit which includes a grease seal as well is the # BK2-100. For the individual bearings and races you will want: Inner bearing: # L68149 Outer bearing: # L44649 Inner Race: # L68111 Outer Race: # L44610 If you would like to replace the hub as well, Dexter offers a replacement hub kit for your old style 8-248 hub; the part number for...
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  • Replacement Hub Assemblies with L68111 and LM67010 Race Numbers
  • Based on the numbers that you were able to find, which refer to the inner and outer race numbers for your hub, it appears that the axle on your trailer has a 4,400 pound capacity and the Redline Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-407-5UC3-EZ will work great as a replacement hub. This trailer hub has a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern and is 10 inches in diameter. It has a # L68111 inner race and # LM67010 outer race. The bearings, races, grease seal, grease cap and lug nuts are all included in...
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  • Replacement Oil Seals For A 2007 EZ Loader Single 3,700 Lb. Axle Trailer
  • Thank you for the VIN. You are correct in that a failing oil seal will cause oil to escape from the bearings therefore, you will need to replace your seals. I called EZ Loader and they informed me that you have a 3,700 lb. axle. In order to replace the oil bath seals, I recommend using Kodiak XL ProLube Kit part # XLPROLUBE1980KIT. Depending on the amount of water that leaked through the seals, you may also want to replace the bearings and races depending on the amount of rust present...
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  • Recommended Electric Brakes and Hub and Drum Assembly for 3,500 Pound Axle
  • The etrailer.com Electric Trailer Brake Kit # AKEBRK-35-SA will work perfectly with the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-35-EZ-K referenced in your question. The Brake Kit will include both left and right electric brake assemblies and they have a 4 bolt mounting flange pattern. You will just want to make sure that the Hub and Drum Assembly is compatible with your trailer spindles. This assembly has # L68149 and # L44649 inner and outer bearings and # L68111 and # L44610 inner...
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  • Replacement Parts for Timbren Axle-Less Suspension System A35RS545E
  • Thank you for your many purchases from etrailer. We appreciate your trust and repeat business. You purchased the Timbren axle-less suspension kit with brakes and straight spindles, part # A35RS545E. The bearings used in this kit are inner # L68149 and outer # L44649. Inner race is part # L68111 and outer race is part # L44610. The 10-19 grease seal is part # RG06-050, sold as a pair.
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  • Replacement Inner Bearing & Race for 2012 Keystone Cougar with Al-Ko T44 Axles
  • An AL-KO bearing K363192 corresponds to bearing part # L68149 and its matching race # L68111, as you noted. We offer these items and they are both linked to this email. If you need a bearing packer, we offer several including the no-mess Powerbuilt # ALL647646 which can be used along with a grease gun like # ALL940798.
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  • How to Determine Which Replacement Hubs Will Fit Spindle
  • There are a few different ways to make sure that you are getting the correct hub to match your spindle like the wheel bolt pattern, bearings, and weight capacity. You can either use a Digital Caliper # PTW80157 to measure the different sections of your spindle (see attached picture), or you can simply remove your current hub and locate the bearing, race, and seal numbers (on same attached picture). Once you know what the measurements or numbers are you can either filter through our...
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  • Replacement Race # L68110 Availability and Compatibility with the # L68149 Bearing
  • The information I have indicates that the # L68149 bearing is compatible with a # L68110 race. The L68110 race is most commonly used in boat trailers and the # L68111 is most commonly used in land based trailers. They both take the same bearing, # L68149, but use different seals and the installation surface on the hubs are different dimensions, as you have noted. Most commonly the # L68110 race is associated with the # 168233 grease seal and the # L68111 race is most commonly associated...
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  • Hub and Drum Assembly for 3,500 lb Axles Compatible With E-Z Lube Spindles
  • For a hub and drum assembly that is compatible with E-Z Lube spindles you want # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K as opposed to the assembly you referenced # AKHD-545-35-K. They are otherwise the same: compatible with 3,500 lb axles, have a 5 on 4-1/2 bolt pattern and include inner bearing: # L68149, outer bearing # L44649, inner race # L68111, outer race # L44610, and grease seal # 58846. I've added a link to a video review of this hub assembly for you to take a look at as well.
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  • What is the Inner Diameter of Trailer Bearings L44649 and L68149
  • The inner diameter of bearing # L44649 is 1.063 inches. The inner diameter of bearing # L68149 is 1.378 inches. Both fit on a #84 spindle. The matching race for bearing L44649 is # L44610. And the matching race for bearing L68149 is # L68111. These bearings and races along with a grease seal associated with them (10-19 seal), cotter pin, and tang washer are available together in a kit, # BK2-100. The seal inner diameter is 1.719 inches.
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  • Recommended Hub Components For 3,500-Lb Axle
  • We sell the hub components either in a kit that is designed for a specific spindle or individually. Some items may come in a package of 2 but for the most part they are sold individually. We do carry the bearings you asked about as well as the race. I was unable to find a reference for the grease seal or a size, but according to the size of the other components I believe it is part # RG06-050.. If you want to use a digital caliper and measure the inside and outside diameter of the 363193...
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  • How to Select Bearing Buddy for Trailer Using L68111 Inner Bearing
  • Part # L68111 refers to a race that matches up with bearing # L68149. The inner grease seal that fits with these parts is # RG06-050, which is a pair of double-lip grease seals. These seals have an outer diameter of 2.565-inches (that fits within the hub bore) and an inner diameter of 1.719-inches (that fits on the spindle). A common dimension is 1.980-inches and in this size you can choose an item like the non-threaded stainless-steel # BB1980A-SS. If you do use Bearing Buddies you'll...
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  • Will Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-545-35-K Work On EZ Loader Trailer
  • The bolt pattern of the # AKHD-545-35-K is a 5 on 4-1/2, but you will need to know what size your spindle is on your trailer to make sure the drums will work. The easiest way to see what you need is to pull the hub and drum and get the numbers off of the bearings. It will be stamped or etched on the side of the bearing as shown in the attached photo. If you cannot find the numbers you will need to use a digital caliper like part # PTW80157 and measure the spindle where the bearings...
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  • Identifying Replacement Bearings, Races and Seals for Trailer Spindle on 3500-lb Axle
  • The most sure method of identifying replacement bearings and seals is to find the original items' part numbers. The appearance of these reference numbers is shown in the linked photo, along with the points on the spindle to measure (as you did) to find the dimensions that will be needed if the part numbers cannot be confirmed. If you can find the part numbers you can search for those directly using our search box. If you cannot and need to find bearings by measurement you can use the...
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  • Difference in Bearing Race # L68111 and Bearing Race # L68110
  • Race # L68111 has an outer diameter of 2.361 inches. Race # L68110 has an outer diameter of 2.327 inches. Based on these measurements, the two races are not interchangeable. They are designed for different size hubs, but can use the same # L68149 bearing. There may not be a pre-packaged kit with the L68110 race, but you can still get all the parts you need separately. I have included a link to our bearing and race main page for you to view.
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  • Is There A Bearing Kit for L68149 Inner Bearing, L44649 Outer Bearing, and 168233 Seal
  • I was able to find the seal on your trailer in my research. The seal that comes in the bearing kit # BK2-100 has different inner and outer diameters that the existing seal on your trailer. The inner and outer diameters of your seal are not common, and therefore we do not have a kit that contains the bearings and seal for your trailer. Since we do not have a kit, you will either want to order the bearings and seals individually, or order the kit for the bearings and the correct seals additionally....
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  • Replacing Bearings, Races, and Seals for Hub with L68149 and L44643 Inner/Outer Bearings
  • The outer bearing you have, # L44643, is very close in size to bearing # L44649. These two bearings fit different size spindles. So in other words the larger L44649 bearing would be very loose on the spindle that normally takes the L44643. Measure the diameter of the spindle where the outer bearing sits using some digital or dial calipers. If the measurement is 1 inch then L44643 that you have is correct. This bearing is typically found on 2,000 pound axles but not 3,500 pound axles. We...
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  • Is 10-19 Grease Seal Acceptable Replacement for 17413 Seal on Shorelandr Boat Trailer
  • According to my research, the 17413 grease seal would fit a 1.75 inch shaft, and has an OD of 2.565 inches. The 10-19 is very close, with an ID of 1.719 inches, but it's not close enough to be an acceptable substitute. Boat trailer manufacturers are well known for using oddball or proprietary parts. The # 17413 seal you referenced is readily available online, and we offer the other components of the # BK2-100 kit individually: Outer bearing # L44649 Inner bearing # L68149 Outer...
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  • How to Find Correct Bearings for 2000 Dorsey Boat Trailer
  • To determine if the TruRyde Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle # BK2-100 will fit the spindles on your Dorsey boat trailer, you will want to confirm the bearings in your existing hub assembly. The bearing numbers should be stamped onto the bearings themselves. If you cannot locate them, then you can also measure the trailer spindle at various locations. I have attached an image that shows what measurements are needed. I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157, as the measurements will...
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  • Dexter Hub 8-248 Bearing and Seal Replacement Recomendations
  • I am surprised you have a # 10-40 hub seal. The Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 8-247-50UC3 that you said you have would take a part # 58846 seal or # RG06-020. And then for bearing part # L68149 for the inner bearing, part # L44649 as outer bearing. For races part # L68111 for inner, and # L44610 for outer. If you do have different bearings than what I listed you don't have to order the bearings all as a kit. You could piece together all the parts you need by ordering them individually.
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  • How To Figure Out the Correct Replacement Hubs for EZ Loader Boat Trailer
  • In order to find the correct replacement hubs for your EZ Loader boat trailer you will need to take apart your current hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you would need to use a digital caliper such as # 301-17068 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where...
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  • Correct Wheel Bearings and Races for 3,500 lb Axle Based on Spindle Diameter?
  • The spindle dimensions you gave match up with # R20384EZ. This spindle is for use with 3,500 lb axles. Based on this, we can tell you that the appropriate bearings are inner # L68149 and outer # L44649. The correct races are inner # L68111 and outer # L44610. When replacing bearings, the grease seal often needs to be replaced as well, and the proper one for this is the Grease Seal for 3,500-lb Axles, # 58846. I have attached a help article on popular wheel bearings that you may find useful.
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Info for this part was:

Photos by:
Theodore B
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Brandon M
Expert Research:
Adam R
Installed by:
Randy B
Video Edited:
Chris R
Video by:
Zach D

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