1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  6. 2.361 Inch O.D.
Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing part number L68111 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Races
  • Standard Races
  • 3500 lbs Axle
  • 2.361 Inch O.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing L68149
  • Race 68111

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Outer diameter: 2.361"
  • Matching bearing (sold separately): L68149


L68111 Replacement Trailer Hub Race

Item # L68111





Video of Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Race for L68149 Bearing - L68111

Average Customer Rating:  4.9 out of 5 stars   (71 Customer Reviews)

Race provides smooth surface for bearing to roll on inside of trailer hub. Works with L68149 bearing. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- L68111
by:

Just received my order of replacement bearings, bearing races, hub covers and seals. Great delivery, Every thing was in stock. Etrailer expedited my delivery at no extra charge. I will be installing my parts on my 2002 Pace American Utility Trailer. This is pretty much an obsolete trailer. Make sure you check out the installation videos. 604445



- L68111
by: 09/09/2020

876424



- L68111
by:

I had a hub and bearing go out on a boat trailer going down the road. Tried matching separate parts locally, but were not available. Was able to order all the parts from etrailer at one time. They had on hand and shipped right away. Parts were exactly what I was looking for. Perfect fit. Now if I would have known that the other side would have failed in the next 12 months I would have done them all at the same time. 831086



- L68111
by:

Installed these bearings and races on my trailer after failure of the manufacture bearings failed because they saved money by not properly lubing at the factory. These have held up well putting on over 40,000 miles and proper lubrication. 804810



- L68111
by:

Fantastic company. Very knowledgeable associates with great customer service. I look forward to dealing with etrailer again. 785201



- L68111
by:

All the parts I ordered were correct and of good quality. The customer service was outstanding!! I spent probably 30 minutes on the phone with Danielle as we tried to figure out exactly what axle was on my trailer ( wasn’t what it was supposed to be ). The parts showed up in a pretty reasonable amount of time considering the pandemic was in full swing. The prices also were very reasonable, as she searched her inventory for the best price, found a package deal for me with more than I was looking for at less cost than buying the parts individually. I will use them again for sure and definitely recommend them to anyone needing trailer parts. 782867



- L68111
by:

Purchased and received in record time! Thanks! 775747



- L68111
by:

Exactly what was ordered and quick deli very 772009



- L68111
by:

Great service! Brenden C did an excellent job of finding the right parts for my trailer and even upgraded the shipping at no extra cost. I highly recommend etrailer! 751504



- L68111
by:

Great product, great service, especially Emily (thank you) Delivery on time and tracking great. Will only get etrailer from now on. Great catalog and how-to videos and info really helps. Highly recommend 738073



- L68111
by:

Perfect fit good price. 706060



- L68111
by:

Thanks James, Received all the products Friday! All parts were correct went together just as I planned... Thanks!!!! 693964



- L68111
by:

Great product and fast shipping. Will be ordering more soon. 679034



- L68111
by:

Fit perfect 669560



- L68111
by:

Quality gets thrown out the window when the packaging is very extremely poor. You do not throw 4 bearings, 4 races and 2 seals in a envelope and let them flop and bang around during handling risking maring or scoring the bearings or races or possibly bending seals. This is a very poor way to handle or pack such items. Hope you will do something about this. Very disappointed. 572863



- L68111
by:

great product , great price and fast shipping THANKS 565375



- L68111
by:

no problems 563182



- L68111
by:

Great product 556993



- L68111
by:

The item is what I expected. 556640



- L68111
by:

The item is what I expected it to be. 556635



- L68111
by:

Order was correct and delivered in 2 days. Items worked fine and were as described. 544812



- L68111
by:

Great product . Easy to install 529134



- L68111
by:

After ordering a second time (the address was incorrect) the items worked as needed. 522415



- L68111
by:

Great service. Every part was a perfect fit! 505111



- L68111
by:

It is just as described and went on perfectly!! I always like getting things that fit right the first time and look to be quality made. The two that were on my trailer were in very bad condition (JUNK), and these solved my problem very easily. Also, they are at a reasonable price. +++++ all the way!! The staff that helped me are fantastic in knowledge of there product and SERVICE! One of the best parts is the Fast shipping! A PLUS Thanks all the way to everyone! 457787


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Recommended Replacement Bearing Kit with Race 6811
    The race part number 6811 you referenced is likely to be part # L68111, which fits with a # L68149 bearing, or race part # L68110. The difference between these two races is their outer diameter dimension. Part # L68110 has an outer diameter of 2.327-inches while part # L68111 has an outer diameter of 2.361-inches. You'll need to measure your hub bore with a precision caliper to determine which race will fit your hub. Bearing kit # BK2-100 includes inner race # L68111.
    view full answer...
  • Will TruRyde Bearing # L68149 Work With Imported # L68111 Race
    The replacement parts for the TruRyde Bearing # L68149 and the TruRyde Race # L68111 use industry-standard numbers. While it is preferable to use matching parts made by the same company, as long as the numbers match up for the parts you want to use, there should be no problem. In this case, the 2 numbers do match up as being parts that are compatible. I also recommend that you replace the bearings and races at the same time. We do not recommend using a new bearing with an old race because...
    view full answer...
  • Inner and Outer Bearing and Grease Seal for Older Trailer
    We carry bearings, races and a seal that are very, very close to your measurements but not exact. For example, the inside bearing we carry is # L68149 and it has a 1.378" inner diameter; the correct race for this is # L68111. For the outer bearing we carry # L44649 which has a 1.063" inner diameter and the matching race is # L44610. Finally there is the grease seal, for which we carry # 58846 which has an inner diameter of 1.719". You could get all of these parts together...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub Assembly for T.D.E. 11033
    From what I was able to find out from my research, the Tie Down Engineering 11033 hub has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern and is designed for 3500-lb axles. Replacement hubs that have these specs typically use a # L68149 inner bearing and # L44649 outer bearing, as well as inner race # L68111 , outer race # L44610 and grease seals with inner diameter of 1.719" and outer diameter of 2.565". You'll want to verify that your current hubs have these bearings, races and seals to ensure that a...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Seals, and Races for Unique #84 Spindle/Hub
    According to the part numbers you gave it looks like you need outer bearing # L44649 with the matching race # L44610, inner bearing # L68149 with the matching race # L68111, and then the grease seal # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688" and outer diameter of 2.332" which fits unique #84 spindle/hub combinations. This seal has the same dimensions of a 16667 seal that is commonly used on a vehicle. The bearing kit # BK2-100 that you referenced has all of the bearings and races...
    view full answer...
  • Brakes, Bearings and Grease Seal for Dexter 8-247 Hubs
    Thank you for that info and we have everything you need. An 8-247 hub and drum, which is the same as Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # 84546UC3 uses Inner Bearing # L68149, Outer Bearing # L44649, Inner Race # L68111, Outer Race # L44610 and Grease Seal # 58846. These parts are all available in Bearing Kit # BK2-100. For your brakes the correct replacements are Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Left Hand # 23-26 and Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Right Hand # 23-27....
    view full answer...
  • Can Bearing Kit BK2-100 be Used on Trailer that Had D-Washer on Spindle Nut
    If everything but the tang washer of the bearing kit # BK2-100 matches what you have you could go with it and then just reuse the washer you have now and you'd be fine. As long as you didn't lose yours it would work great. We do have just a D-washer by itself with part # 5-23. Or you could piece together your own kit too with just parts you need. The bearings would be # L44649 and # L68149, and the races would be # L44610 and # L68111. The seal would then be the # RG06-050.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter 8-245 Hub
    Based on my research your Dexter 8-245 hub is a 3,500 lb hub that and the correct replacement inner bearing is part # L68149 with the matching race being part # L68111. The correct replacement outer bearing is part # L44649 and the matching race is part # L44610.
    view full answer...
  • Bearings for a Dexter Trailer Hub 8-222
    I called Dexter Axle and they were able to inform me that your Dexter Trailer Hub 8-222 uses a part # L68149 inner bearing, part # L68111 inner race, part # LM67048 outer bearing, part # LM67010 outer race, and a part # 10-40 grease seal. Unfortunately, we don't have a bearing kit with all of these parts for you so they will need to be purchased separately.
    view full answer...
  • Bearings for EZ Loader Boat Trailer 1-TALB 19-22 4000
    Based on the model number you have a 4,000 lb capacity EZ Loader trailer, and will need the following bearings, races, and seal: - Bearings: # L44649 and # L68149 - Races: # L68111 and # L44610 - Seal: # 168255TB
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races and Oil Seals for Ranger Tandem Axle Boat Trailer with Cool Oil Hubs
    To determine the correct replacement bearings, races and seals for the oil bath cool hubs on your Ranger Boat Trailer you will want to remove one of the hub assemblies so that you can take note of the part numbers on the existing components. If you refer to the photo I linked you'll see how these parts numbers usually appear. Experience with Ranger trailers like yours suggests that it may well use inner bearing # L68149, outer bearing # L44649, inner race # L68111 and outer race # L44610....
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal and Bearings for 1992 Mastercraft Boat Trailer
    The correct grease seal for your Mastercraft boat trailer is part # 010-180-00. It has an inner diameter of 1.68" and an outer diameter of 2.33" to match the dimensions your mentioned required for your trailer axle. You can then purchase the bearings and races individually: Outer Bearing # L44649 Outer Race # L44610 Inner Bearing # L68149 Inner Race # L68111 I've included a quick link to the complete list of parts at the bottom of this page for you as well.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings, Races, Seals, Brake Drums and Brake Assemblies for 4400 lb Axle
    The spindles used on the 4400 axle are compatible with the # L67048 Inner bearing and # LM67010 race and the # L44649 Outer bearing and # L44610 race, along with the 10-19 grease seal, part # RG06-050. You'll want to confirm this by pulling one of the hubs to check the reference numbers off of your current bearings. For brakes, you'd need a 10 x 2-1/4 inch brake assembly. I'd recommend a Nev-r-adjust assembly, part # K23-478-479 for the right and left sides. Typically, it's recommended...
    view full answer...
  • Bearing Kit for 3,500 lb Axle on Sure-Trac Trailer
    I was able to do some digging and found out that Sure-Trac trailers use either a Dexter or Lippert axle, and both of these 3,500 lb axles use the same bearings and grease seal, so we have exactly what you need. The Bearing Kit for #84 Spindle # BK2-100 is precisely the correct kit for one of the hubs on your trailer, so if you are looking to replace the bearings on both hubs, you'll need a pair of kits. This kit comes with the following: - Inner Bearing # L68149, Inner Race # L68111 -...
    view full answer...
  • Correct Trailer Hub, Drum and Electric Brakes for 3,500 lb Dexter Axle
    Thank you so much for that information and we have exactly what you needed. I contacted Dexter and they told me that for your 3,500 lb axle with a #84 spindle you will need the following parts: - Dexter Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly for 3,500-lb E-Z Lube Axles # 84546UC3-EZ - Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - 10" - Left Hand # 23-26 - Dexter Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - 10" - Right Hand # 23-27 These hubs do come with the bearings, races and grease seal: inner bearing...
    view full answer...
  • How To Figure Out the Correct Replacement Hubs for EZ Loader Boat Trailer
    In order to find the correct replacement hubs for your EZ Loader boat trailer you will need to take apart your current hub assembly and look at the bearings themselves; wipe away the grease and you should be able to see the part number stamped directly on them. If you are unable to find them, you would need to use a digital caliper such as # 301-17068 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings ride. You can use the photo I've attached to see exactly where...
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  • Replacement Seals and Bearings for 4,400 lb Axle
    We have the bearings and seals you would need for your 4,400 lb axle. It would be inner bearing # L68149 with race # L68111, outer bearing # LM67048 with race # LM67010 and grease seal # RG06-050. You can find the prices of these parts on their product pages. I've added links of video reviews of these products for you to take a look at as well.
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  • Replacement Parts for Timbren Axle-Less Suspension System A35RS545E
    Thank you for your many purchases from etrailer. We appreciate your trust and repeat business. You purchased the Timbren axle-less suspension kit with brakes and straight spindles, part # A35RS545E. The bearings used in this kit are inner # L68149 and outer # L44649. Inner race is part # L68111 and outer race is part # L44610. The 10-19 grease seal is part # RG06-050, sold as a pair.
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  • Recommended Hub Components For 3,500-Lb Axle
    We sell the hub components either in a kit that is designed for a specific spindle or individually. Some items may come in a package of 2 but for the most part they are sold individually. We do carry the bearings you asked about as well as the race. I was unable to find a reference for the grease seal or a size, but according to the size of the other components I believe it is part # RG06-050.. If you want to use a digital caliper and measure the inside and outside diameter of the 363193...
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  • How to Determine Replacement Bearings and Seal for 3,500 lb EZ Loader Axle with Oil Bath Hub
    Typically for a 3,500 lb axle you will see an inner bearing # L68149 (race # L68111), outer bearing # L44649 (race # L44610), and then a grease seal that has inner and outer dimensions of 1.719" and 2.565" respectively. Since all of our oil bath seals are a bit larger than that I'll need you to use a digital caliper like # 301-17068 to measure your spindle where the seal rides, as well as your hub where your seal rides to ensure we get the correct replacement for you. When it comes...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Grease Seal for the EZ Loader Kit 300-015907
    The bearings, races, and grease seal that are included in the EZ Loader bearing kit 300-015907 that you referenced are found as parts # L68149, # L68111, # L44649, # L44610, and # 168255TB.
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  • Bearing Kit for a 1999 Haulmark Cargo Trailer With 84 Spindle or Dexter K71-717-00
    The bearing kit that you are looking for goes to what is commonly known as an 84 spindle. The kit you are looking for is Bearing Kit # BK2-100 which includes: Inner Bearing - # L68149 Outer Bearing - # L44649 Inner Race - # L68111 Outer Race - # L44610 Seal - # RG06-050 This kit is the same as the K71-717-00 kit that you referenced.
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  • Replacement Bearings for Dexter 8-248 Hub
    Thank you for the photos as they show you have a Dexter 8-248 hub such as the Dexter Trailer Hub # 8-248-50. The correct replacements bearings for that are Inner Bearing # L68149 and matching Race # L68111, Outer Bearing # L44649 and matching Race # L44610. The correct Grease Seal is # 58846. I also recommend using the LubriMatic Marine Trailer Wheel Bearing Grease # L11402 with Grease Gun # L30200.
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  • Bearings and Seal for a 3,500 lb Dexter Torflex Axle
    I took a look at the manual, and the outer bearing for a #10 Torflex Dexter axle would be outer bearing # L44649 and outer race # L44610; inner bearing # L68149 and inner race # L68111; and seal # 58846. That would make bearing kit # BK2-100 the correct choice for your axle and includes each of these parts. For a Bearing Buddy you would want to use # BB1980A. I have included links to video reviews of each of these products for you to take a look at.
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  • Correct Wheel Bearings and Races for 3,500 lb Axle Based on Spindle Diameter?
    The spindle dimensions you gave match up with # TRU74FR. This spindle is for use with 3,500 lb axles. Based on this, we can tell you that the appropriate bearings are inner # L68149 and outer # L44649. The correct races are inner # L68111 and outer # L44610. When replacing bearings, the grease seal often needs to be replaced as well, and the proper one for this is the Grease Seal for 3,500-lb Axles, # 58846. I have attached a help article on popular wheel bearings that you may find useful.
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  • Which Bearing Kit With Grease Seal Will Fit My AL-KO 3000 Pound EZ Lube Axles
    From what I found during my research, it looks like you have a #84 spindle. This would mean that you would want to use the Bearing Kit # BK2-100. This includes these individual parts: Outer Bearing - # L44649 Outer Race - # L44610 Inner Bearing - # L68149 Inner Race - # L68111 Seal - # RG06-050 You will want to double check your spindle dimensions using the attached picture, or you can look at your bearings and find the part number that is stamped on them just to be sure.
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  • What is the Inner Diameter of Trailer Bearings L44649 and L68149
    The inner diameter of bearing # L44649 is 1.063 inches. The inner diameter of bearing # L68149 is 1.378 inches. Both fit on a #84 spindle. The matching race for bearing L44649 is # L44610. And the matching race for bearing L68149 is # L68111. These bearings and races along with a grease seal associated with them (10-19 seal), cotter pin, and tang washer are available together in a kit, # BK2-100. The seal inner diameter is 1.719 inches.
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  • Can Races and Cotter Pins Be Added to the Bearing Kit for 3,500 lbs Axles
    The Bearing Kit for 3,500 lbs Axles part # DBRKHW35EZ does not come with any races but you can add the ones you need using part # L44610 and part # L68111. For the cotter pins you can use part # 165649.
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  • Self-Adjusting Brake Assembly Recommendation for Lippert 4,400 Trailer Axles
    We have just what you need. The Dexter brake assemblies part # K23-478-00 for the left hand side and part # K23-479-00 for the right hand side are exactly what you are looking for. They are 4,400 lb capacity, will fit your axle, and are self-adjusting.
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  • Is 10-19 Grease Seal Acceptable Replacement for 17413 Seal on Shorelandr Boat Trailer
    According to my research, the 17413 grease seal would fit a 1.75 inch shaft, and has an OD of 2.565 inches. The 10-19 is very close, with an ID of 1.719 inches, but it's not close enough to be an acceptable substitute. Boat trailer manufacturers are well known for using oddball or proprietary parts. The # 17413 seal you referenced is readily available online, and we offer the other components of the # BK2-100 kit individually: Outer bearing # L44649 Inner bearing # L68149 Outer...
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