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10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2

10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2

Item # RG06-090

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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TruRyde 2.125 Inch I.D. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-090
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  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 2.125 Inch I.D.
  • TruRyde
  • 3.376 Inch O.D.
Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2 part number RG06-090 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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  • Reviews (120)
  • Q & A (88)
  • Videos (2)
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  • Why etrailer?

TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-090


  • (2) Double-lipped grease seals

I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
2.125 3.376 E-Z Lube and Oil 5,200, 6,000 and 7,000 LB Axles


Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
010-010-00
21334TB
470972
AD8717EO
21352



RG06-090 Grease / Oil Seals 10-10 (Pair) - Double Lip Seals





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1026LS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1028FKS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1030FK

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1030FKS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1032FKS

2010 - 2010 Skyline Freestyle TT Toy Hauler 183B

2010 - 2010 Skyline Rampage TT Toy Hauler 183B

2010 - 2010 Skyline Trailrider TT Toy Hauler 183B

2019 - 2019 Coachmen Apex Nano Travel Trailer 203RBK

2019 - 2019 Coachmen Apex Nano Travel Trailer 208BHS

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 20LK

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Apex Nano Travel Trailer 213RDS

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 21FSLE

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 21SALE

2012 - 2012 Skyline Weekender TT Toy Hauler 229

2010 - 2010 Skyline Freestyle TT Toy Hauler 229B

2010 - 2010 Skyline Rampage TT Toy Hauler 229B

2010 - 2010 Skyline Trailrider TT Toy Hauler 229B

2013 - 2013 Forest River Wolf Pup Travel Trailer 22BP

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 22LK

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 22SK

2012 - 2012 Skyline Aljo Retro Travel Trailer 237

2012 - 2012 Skyline Layton Retro Travel Trailer 237

2012 - 2012 Skyline Weekender Travel Trailer 237

2014 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 237B

2012 - 2012 Skyline Bobcat Travel Trailer 239B

2013 - 2014 Skyline Skycat Travel Trailer 239B

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 23FB

2007 - 2007 Coachmen Adrenaline Lite TT Toy Hauler 23FS

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 23SB

See All Vehicle Fits



Video of 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2 - RG06-090

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (120 Customer Reviews)


- RG06-090
by:

Do what they should -- seal. Have placed about 4000 miles and 50 launches with hot bearings and no leaks. Gone are the days of milky oil and multiple changes/top ups each year. 611838



- RG06-090
by:

I am very happy with the parts and prices. The shipping was very fast and arrived on time . I am sorry that the wheel seals are already on the trailer so no photos will be taken this time. You can be assured that I will be using etrailer for the parts I need from now ! Thanks for the excellent shipping! Your company and people who work there are great people 409371



- RG06-090
by:

These seals worked well. Easy to install with no problems or leakage since installation. 446448


Comments

They have given me good service up to this point. I installed them on a 1972 travel trailer that I refurbished. Now I am a Glamper.

Joe - 10/26/2018

45098

- RG06-090
by:

Great service and awesome experience 560452



- RG06-090
by:

This is my third order from e-trailer and like the others I have been well pleased. I was having trouble finding these grease seals for my travel trailer but e-trailer had them in stock and at a reasonable price. I installed them and they fit perfectly. I would highly recommend this company. 80836


Comments

The grease seals are still doing what they are supposed to do. That is keep the grease where it is supposed to be. Not on the braking parts.Phil B.

Phil B - 05/18/2014

4304

- RG06-090
by:

If you need anything for a trailer etrailer has it. They are my go to for all my trailer repairs. They also have a great staff if you need any technical information. 462743



- RG06-090
by:

I needed to do the spring repack before my trip to AZ this week. I only had 3 inner drum seals and I didn't leave sufficient time to get my etrailer order. I went to [a local auto parts store] and one single lip seal was $18.00. My etrailer order for 4 double lip seals was less than what they wanted for one of them. [That store] is VERY proud of their merchandise! etrailer is the place to buy. 486932



- RG06-090
by:

Good quality double lip seal. Fit properly. Will see how they wear after a few miles 199288


Comments

Over one year and over 1500 miles. So far the seals are still performing properly.

Brian S - 05/30/2016

18150

- RG06-090
by:

Product was as ordered and on time 476106



- RG06-090
by:

Received parts very quickly. Quality products. Very pleased. Had to replace pads due to easy lub system failure. Grease pumped in past seals and saturated pads was on and in everything. More cost effective to replace whole assembly. Assembly fit perfectly replacing lippert factory parts. 361573



- RG06-090
by:

Your company sent me the wrongs grease seals. I called and wrote emails only to have what I considered a burden placed on me. Pray tell why I am required to obtain a caliper to measure the sizes if the seals your company sent me? before my return can be processed further? I offered to return the seals you all sent but was told the shipping cost more than the seals were worth, How is that my issue or problem? Throughout all of this you folks still haven't made it right by me. What hoops will I have to jump through to spur someone into thinking and acting on this properly? These are clearly not the RG06-090 seals. So here is a thought. How about sending me the right seals and covering the cost to make it right? I am very upset that I am forced to explain basic customer service and remedy to you folks. Not to mention that no one on our end has lead the charge to fix this after a whole business week. 402814



- RG06-090
by:

These are perfect replacements for my AL-KO drums. 572354



- RG06-090
by:

So far, so good, put approximately 8,000 miles on the trailer w/o a hitch. No leaks, drops or spills! 656712



- RG06-090
by:

I normally don't order things online so this was a new experience for me and it was awesome! I will definitely use etrailer.com again and recommend them to others. The seals I ordered were the right ones and came quickly. 654939



- RG06-090
by:

Just what I ordered thanks for the fast shipping 649965



- RG06-090
by:

Seem to be well made. 641387



- RG06-090
by:

The product came fast and was an excellent direct replacement for my travel trailer. 629125



- RG06-090
by:

reasonable alternative 608760



- RG06-090
by:

perfect fit on my Weekend Warrior 608553



- RG06-090
by:

Fast shipping and received in good condition, have not installed these yet, but looks like they will fit and work like they are supposed to. 601913



- RG06-090
by:

It's easier for me to buy through etrailer than to run around town trying to find what I need, even for small parts. Shipping is fast. I have never been disappointed in the service. 568645



- RG06-090
by:

Fit good. I would buy again. 562639



- RG06-090
by:

Just what i ordered 557459



- RG06-090
by:

Great quick service 555702



- RG06-090
by:

Item shipped as described. E Trailer is a great company and go beyond the call of duty to assist their customers. Thanks for making this easy! 555226



- RG06-090
by:

Product was as advertised. 540787



- RG06-090
by:

Great product and very fast shipping.. 520120



- RG06-090
by:

Quick shipping. Great price. Quality pr oduct! 516373



- RG06-090
by:

Seals were fine, time to get here rediculous. I am so mad I'll prolly never order from them again.. Rediculous!! 510793



- RG06-090
by:

Thanks for all the help selecting the correct product, everything fits perfectly!!! 475333



- RG06-090
by:

Quick Shipment, Correct Quality Parts, Excellent Price, What else could you ask for? 474999



- RG06-090
by:

Have bought things before from etrailer Excellent service 469132



- RG06-090
by:

GREAT PRODUCTS EXCEPT PACKING WAS NOT SUFFICIENT ON BRAKE ASSEMBLIES AND WERE DAMAGED BY ROUGH HANDLING. WAS ABLE TO REPLACE DAMAGED PART FROM OLD BRAKES 459533



- RG06-090
by:

Perfect fit. Great service from etraile r. 458052



- RG06-090
by:

Working very well. 445824



- RG06-090
by:

perfect fit 436619



- RG06-090
by:

Great prices, knowledgeable staff, fast shipping. I will definitely shop here again. 435504



- RG06-090
by:

etrailer is great and also the people working there. I contacted etrailer and didn't know what exactually to order and since I had ordered it in the past etrailer found from my history what I needed and when I received it it worked great. Thanks so much. 434965



- RG06-090
by:

Perfect fit. 431707



- RG06-090
by:

The seals might be fine for grease seals but not for Oil. I ordered 1-3/4 seals and these were 2-1/4 inside. 425027



- RG06-090
by:

I removed the wire coil for my application. I found it pressed on the seal. I feel like it will work great. I would buy it again. 424549



- RG06-090
by:

Your products have been flawless !! Thanks again 419778



- RG06-090
by:

Great product for the money! 413881



- RG06-090
by:

I bought grease seals for dexter 7000 lb axles. The product was shipped out the next day and with standard shipping was delivered three days after ordering. The seal fits perfectly and 4 seals delivered was half the cost of one seal from the local auto parts. Thanks! 406008



- RG06-090
by:

Wow!!! The seals fit great. Service was excellent. 403244



- RG06-090
by:

great price, seem to be well made ,fit as required 399706


Comments

I used these seals on a horse trailer that carries 4 warmbloods. We pull 700 mile round trip once a month loaded both ways. Plus the incidental trips between . No problems. Im satisfied.

Shaker H - 06/27/2018

40258

- RG06-090
by:

I installed, and adjusted the 4-items : AKHD-655-6K drum assembles without any problems. Also glad I ordered the extra RG06-090 seals with 2.125 diameter because they turned out to be the correct ones. I highly recommend etrailer parts to anyone looking for good quality products. 399246


Comments

The AKHD-655-6K drum assembles are working just fine. Thanks for the quality product.

Eugene A - 06/23/2018

40098

- RG06-090
by:

This is the second time I have ordered these seals. Have been very pleased with the previous ones. They do what they are supposed to do, keep grease from getting on the brake liners. I have ordered several items from etrailer, hitches, bike rack and other items. Have been very pleased with the prices and promt shipping. etrailer will continue to be my go to place whenever I need trailer parts or tow vehicle parts. Phil B 385046



- RG06-090
by:

I lost a wheel and brake drum and limped into the campground. I called etrailer and ordered the parts through Lazer. My parts arrived the next day and the order was 100% correct. I am safe at home and am one happy camper. 384489



- RG06-090
by:

Much, much better than the original 10-1 seals that were on my 5th wheel. While I never had any problem with grease leakage on the old ones, these seals have the spring inside to give it more tension on the axle. 384365


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Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Replacement Hub/Drum and Braking Assemblies for 6K Dexter Axle Torflex EZ Lube Axles
  • You are 99% of the way there! The Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K is the correct replacement for your 8-201 Dexter Axle Hub/Drum Assemblies # 8-201-9UC3-EZ with the exception of the grease seal that comes with it. The Dexter Axle option has a 2.125" ID while the etrailer option has a 2.250" ID so you just need to swap out those seals for part # RG06-090 and our hub/drum kit will match perfectly! The Electric Trailer Brake Kit # AKEBRK-7-SA replaces your Dexter Electric...
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  • Wheel Bearing Grease Recommendation for 7k Lippert Axle
  • The RED grease is the best grease for trailer hubs. It's marine grade and the most heavy-duty grease around so its what we recommend the most. For that you would want # L11390. This grease also happens to be the most universal. You are going to need to measure your current spindle to determine whether or not you need a 2-1/8 inch seal like # RG06-090 or if you need a 2-1/4 inch seal like # RG06-070. You will need to take the measurement of the spindle where the grease seal rides....
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals Based On Printed Number On Face Of Bearing
  • For your bearings, I recommend the etrailer.com Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # LM67048. For your seals, I can't find the part number or dimensions anywhere, so if you send me dimensions of inside and outside diameters, I'll do what I can to help.
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  • Which Replacement Grease Seal Goes with Inner Bearing 25580
  • On hubs that use 25580 as the inner bearing the axles could be anywhere from 5,200 pounds to 8,000 pounds. The most likely is that it is a 6,000 pound axle. So the seals that are used on those axles are going to be # GS2250DL, # RG06-070, or # RG06-090 and possibly others. The differences are the sizes. # GS-2250DL is 2.250" ID - 3.376" OD # RG06-070 is the same as above except that it is a set of 2 seals # RG06-090 is a set but the IN is 2.125" and the OD is 3.376" If you can...
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for 22333 KBN
  • The seal replacement for your 22333 kbn is the Grease Seal - Double Lip # GS-2250DL. This is a direct replacement with a 2.250" inner diameter and 3.376" outer diameter.
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  • What is the Difference Between the 10-10 Grease Seals and the 10-36 Grease Seals
  • The difference between the 10-10 grease seals, # RG06-090, and the 10-36 grease seals, # RG06-070, is their inner diameter. The 10-10 grease seals fit older spindles with a seal journal (see photo) diameter of 2.125 inches. The 10-36 grease seals fit newer spindles with a seal journal of 2.250 inches. On 5,200 lb, 6,000 lb and 7,000 lb axles, manufacturers are no longer making spindles with a 2.125 inch seal journal, so they needed to come up with a seal that could fit the slightly larger...
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  • Replacement Trailer Hub Grease Seal for a Seal Number 512136-4
  • Given the bearing numbers that you have, you will need 1 of 2 possible seals. You will either need 10-10 seals # RG06-090 or 10-36 seals # RG06-070. The difference is the dimensions. The 10-10 seals # RG06-090 have an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches. The 10-36 seals # RG06-070 have an inner diameter of 2.250 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches. The inner diameter is the key. If you measure the inner diameter of an existing seal or the spindle...
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  • Replacement for TCM 21334 Grease Seals
  • We carry the seals you are looking for, double lip seals # RG06-090. These seals have an inner diameter of 2.125", an outer diameter of 3.376" and is for use of E-Z Lube and Oil 5,200, 6,000 and 7,000 LB Axles. I've added a link to a review video of this product for you to take a look at.
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  • Idler Hubs to Fit a Mobile Home Axle on a Gooseneck Trailer with Bearings 25580 and LM67048
  • We do have some idler hubs, without the drums, that fit bearings # 25580 and # LM67048. All of them have a 6 lug bolt pattern. We have two, part # 8-213-5UC1 for standard axles and # 8-213-5UC1-EZ for E-Z Lube axles, that use grease seals 10-10, part # RG06-090 and have a 6 on 5-1/2 bolt pattern. The other is an agricultural hub and is more likely what fits your mobile home axles. It's a 6 on 6 bolt pattern and uses the same bearings but instead fits a 42385 grease seal, part # GS-2250DL....
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation For 6,000 Lb Axle With Dexter Hub Assembly
  • For a grease seal that is used with a Dexter 6,000 EZ Lube axle and hub assembly like part # 8-201-9UC3-EZ, you would need part # RG06-090. This comes with a quantity of 2 seals in the package. It has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches.
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement Grease Seal for a Dexter 7000 lb Axle
  • You are going to need to measure your current spindle to determine whether or not you need a 2-1/8 inch seal like # RG06-090 or if you need a 2-1/4 inch seal like # RG06-070. You will need to take the measurement of the spindle where the grease seal rides. See attached picture.
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  • How to Determine the Correct Parts for a Bearing Kit for a 5,200 lb Dexter Trailer Axle
  • For your 2006 Colorado fifth-wheel trailer with 5,200 lb EZ Lube axles, there are a couple of possibilities. The best way to determine the correct parts is to disassemble a hub on one side of the trailer and get the bearing part numbers off of the bearings that are on the spindle. I put together a drawing showing where part numbers are and/or how to measure to determine the correct parts for trailer hub and drum assemblies, see link. If your hubs have a 6 on 5-1/2 inch bolt circle, you...
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  • Does Trailer Wheel Hub/Brake Drum Need to Be Replaced if Inside Surface is Grooved
  • Because the face of the magnet rides against the armature (inside) surface of the brake drum, any grooves that had previously been worn into the armature surface will cause the magnet to wear unevenly. For optimal braking performance, you want maximum contact between the face of the magnet and the armature surface of the brake drum. If the drum itself got too hot, you might see some blue discoloration on the armature surface. In extreme cases, the armature surface can warp. It might...
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  • Identifying the Bearings and Seals on a Lippert Trailer Axle
  • I checked with Lippert and could not find any information on NV304664. Do you know the capacity of the axle? If it is a 7,000 pound axle then the likely inner bearing is # 25580 and the outer bearing is # 14125A. If a 2-1/4 inch seal diameter is needed it is a 10-36 seal, # RG06-070. Or it could also be a 2-1/8 inch diameter seal # RG06-090. If it is a 3,500 pound axle it likely uses inner bearing # L68149 and outer bearing # L44649 and a 10-19 seal # RG06-050. To determine which...
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  • Trailer Axles and Electric Over Hydraulic Disc Trailer Brakes that Offer Best Ride for 14K Trailer
  • For a 7,000 pound trailer axle I recommend a Timbren system, # TASR7KS01. This is actually an axle-less system with its own built in suspension. Since there is no axle beam connecting one side to the other it creates independent suspension at all the wheels. For 2 axles you would need 2 kits. For compatible disc brakes I recommend Kodiak dacromet disc brake kit # K2HRCM1337-9DAC. This kit is for 1 axle so to put brakes on both axles you would need 2 kits. For as much weight as you are...
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  • Bearings and Seal for Replacing UFP Dexter 41062 Hub with Kodiak Hub and Rotor
  • I spoke with my contact at UFP Dexter and he said that your 41062 hub uses inner bearing 031-030-02, outer bearing 031-032-02, and seal 010-181-00. This is the equivalent of inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # LM67048, and grease seal # GS-2125DL which can all be found in the bearing kit # BK3-310 along with the races for the bearings. Unfortunately the bearing kit # DBRKHW85G that you purchased isn't the same as the grease seal has a slightly larger diameter but that can easily be fixed....
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  • Replacement Double-Lip Grease Seals to Replace AL-KO 568862 or Hayes 09103304L
  • It took a bit of cross-referencing, but I found that the 10-10 grease seal, part # RG06-090 is the correct replacement for the Al-KO 568862 seals. You can confirm this by checking the ID of the hub bore where the seal would sit. The ID should be about 3.376 inches. The 10-10 seal has an ID of 2.125 and an OD of 3.376 inches.
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  • Replacement Grease Seal for National 413470 Seal
  • Your National seal 413470 has an outer diameter of 3.376 inches and an inner diameter of 2.125 inches. For a replacement we have # GS-2125DL for one seal or # RG06-090 for a pair. These are all double lip seals.
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  • How to Measure to Select Replacement Grease Seals for 2003 Weekend Warrior Trailer
  • We do offer grease seals (and grease caps for the outside of your hubs too) in a range of sizes. If you cannot find a cross reference to your seal part number you can measure the spindle where the seal rides and the hub bore where the seal is installed for their dimensions. If you refer to the linked photo you will see both the usual location of seal part numbers and the location on the spindle (marked B) where the seal rides. You can select a correct replacement seal based on those...
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  • Replacement Brakes and Hubs/Rotors for Dexter 6,000 Lb Axles
  • As long as the brake mounting flange on your Dexter axle uses a 5 bolt pattern then the Electric Trailer Brake Kit part # AKEBRK-7-SA will work for you. The Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly part # AKHD-655-6-K uses a 25580 (1.75" inner diameter) inner bearing and a 15123 (1.25" inner diameter) outer bearing therefore will work well for you but you would need to swap out the grease seals for part # RG06-090. The brake mounting flange on your axle should use a 5 bolt pattern. The only other...
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  • How to Determine the Correct Grease Seals for a Trailer with 6k AL-KO Axles
  • The inner diameter of grease seal set # RG06-070 is 2.250 inches. Inner diameters are hard to measure because the rubber is flexible. Seal # RG06-090 you reference is slightly smaller at 2.124 inner diameter. To determine if this is the correct seal I would need to know the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the metal of the bearings.
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Trailer Hub with Bearing Numbers LM67048 and 25580
  • There are two seal options available for a hub that has the two bearing numbers you mentioned LM67048 and 25580. If your spindle measures 2.125 inches where the seal rides you need the 10-10 # RG06-090. If instead you have an inner diameter of 2.25 inches you'd need the part # RG06-070.
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  • Replacement Bearings for an AL KO 5,200 lb Axle
  • The AL-KO 5,200 lb axle uses the inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing part # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-090. For races you would want # 25520 and # 15245.
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  • Replacing Bearings, Races, Seals and Dust Caps on a 5th Wheel Trailer
  • Yes, the Dexter axle part number 4003321 you referenced works with the hub and drum assembly part # 8-201-5UC3-EZ which is a 5,200 pound axle. The hub pattern is 6 on 5-1/2. The parts you will need are inner bearing # 25580 (4) and outer bearing # LM67048 (4). You will need seals # RG06-090 and dust cap # RG04-080. The seal and dust cap will come as a pair. I have included a FAQ and multiple videos for you too.
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