1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
  2. TruRyde
  3. Seals
  4. Grease Seals - Double Lip
  5. 3.376 Inch O.D.
  6. 2.125 Inch I.D.
10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2

10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2

Item # RG06-090
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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TruRyde 2.125 Inch I.D. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-090
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2 part number RG06-090 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG06-090

  • Seals
  • Grease Seals - Double Lip
  • 3.376 Inch O.D.
  • 2.125 Inch I.D.
  • TruRyde


  • (2) Double-lipped grease seals

I.D.
O.D.
Use With:
2.125 3.376 E-Z Lube and Oil 5,200, 6,000 and 7,000 LB Axles


Seal Cross-Reference
Dexter #
Transcom #
National #
NOK #
Chicago Rawhide #
010-010-00
21334TB
470972
AD8717EO
21352



RG06-090 Grease / Oil Seals 10-10 (Pair) - Double Lip Seals





Video of 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seals - Qty 2 - RG06-090

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (144 Customer Reviews)


- RG06-090
by:

This is my third order from e-trailer and like the others I have been well pleased. I was having trouble finding these grease seals for my travel trailer but e-trailer had them in stock and at a reasonable price. I installed them and they fit perfectly. I would highly recommend this company. 80836


Comments
The grease seals are still doing what they are supposed to do. That is keep the grease where it is supposed to be. Not on the braking parts.Phil B.
Phil B - 05/18/2014

4304

- RG06-090
by:

These seals worked well. Easy to install with no problems or leakage since installation. 446448


Comments
They have given me good service up to this point. I installed them on a 1972 travel trailer that I refurbished. Now I am a Glamper.
Joe - 10/26/2018

45098

- RG06-090
by: 10/01/2020

895583



- RG06-090
by:

Right part and quick shipping 887128



- RG06-090
by:

What can you say about a grease seal? Excellent Now I can finish the repack ;) 884747



- RG06-090
by:

Good grease seals that get the job done. Reasonably priced and as always quick delivery from etrailer. 880137



- RG06-090
by:

Still going good after a year. Although haven't been able to use the trailer as much this year 876448



- RG06-090
by:

needed rush parts to make our camping reservation. Paid the premium for two day and it arrived on the second day. 872684



- RG06-090
by:

Product as described, helpful customer service. 872118



- RG06-090
by: 08/29/2020

Excellent quality 871043



- RG06-090
by:

Excellent service, thanks etrailer 864054



- RG06-090
by:

High quality. No grease leaks. 862120



- RG06-090
by:

Have placed 2 orders so far. No problems, good parts , good price and good delivery. I will be back. 848059



- RG06-090
by:

Seals fit perfectly. 784654



- RG06-090
by:

The bearings and seals were an exact fit and worked as expected. Teresa J. is very knowledgeable and helped me figure out the right parts, even though I did not have axle data tags to work with. I highly recommend etrailer and will order from them if I need any parts in the future. 779530



- RG06-090
by:

All the parts are items we keep on hand for maintenance of our two large trailers. etrailer has by far the best prices and with free shipping it does not pay us to source the parts locally. 763785



- RG06-090
by:

Excellent , why reuse old parts and seals when you can replace them all with new a and much better price and peace of mind since let's face it we tend to forget the wheel bearings on trailers until something happens. 748783



- RG06-090
by:

they worked great would buy again etrailer is the best place to buy trailer parts 739212



- RG06-090
by:

Product works excellent thank you for your rapid support 730444



- RG06-090
by:

Excellent quality and price. 717268



- RG06-090
by:

I purchased these grease seals for my camper. It originally had National seals on it, and are reinforced on the back of the seal, the seals from e trailer are the size I need but aren't reinforced but should work fine. 716604



- RG06-090
by:

Great personal help. I ordered trailer bearings and seals on a 5th Wheel that was 17 years old. One beating had no # on it. Tammy worked with me until we finally got the correct one. Very helpful, knowledgeable, and professional. 715294



- RG06-090
by:

My parts arrived on time. Great service. Olivia went out of her way to help me correct a order i had previously made.. Thanks for good job well done all around 707907



- RG06-090
by:

The seals fit perfectly, reasonably priced and quick shipping. 698721



- RG06-090
by:

I have used these seals for 3 yrs on 2 high mileage horses trailers. I change them annually. They do a fine job for a fraction of the price. 692632


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Show More Reviews

Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Replacement for Grease Seal 21333TB
    The grease seals in Kit # BK3-100 are not the same as 21333TB. The correct replacement seal for that would be # RG06-090, which have a 2.125" inner diameter and 3.376" outer diameter.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal for 22333 KBN
    The seal replacement for your 22333 kbn is the Grease Seal - Double Lip # GS-2250DL. This is a direct replacement with a 2.250" inner diameter and 3.376" outer diameter.
    view full answer...
  • How to Measure to Select Replacement Grease Seals for 2003 Weekend Warrior Trailer
    We do offer grease seals (and grease caps for the outside of your hubs too) in a range of sizes. If you cannot find a cross reference to your seal part number you can measure the spindle where the seal rides and the hub bore where the seal is installed for their dimensions. If you refer to the linked photo you will see both the usual location of seal part numbers and the location on the spindle (marked B) where the seal rides. You can select a correct replacement seal based on those...
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Recommendation to Replace TCM 21334
    The Transcom # TCM 21344 TB cross references to the 10-10 seal we offer, part # RG06-090. The seal has a 2.125 inch ID and a 3.376 OD. It's compatible with a 25580 inner bearing.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Double-Lip Grease Seals to Replace AL-KO 568862 or Hayes 09103304L
    It took a bit of cross-referencing, but I found that the 10-10 grease seal, part # RG06-090 is the correct replacement for the Al-KO 568862 seals. You can confirm this by checking the ID of the hub bore where the seal would sit. The ID should be about 3.376 inches. The 10-10 seal has an ID of 2.125 and an OD of 3.376 inches.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine the Correct Grease Seals for a Trailer with 6k AL-KO Axles
    The inner diameter of grease seal set # RG06-070 is 2.250 inches. Inner diameters are hard to measure because the rubber is flexible. Seal # RG06-090 you reference is slightly smaller at 2.124 inner diameter. To determine if this is the correct seal I would need to know the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the metal of the bearings.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine the Correct Parts for a Bearing Kit for a 5,200 lb Dexter Trailer Axle
    For your 2006 Colorado fifth-wheel trailer with 5,200 lb EZ Lube axles, there are a couple of possibilities. The best way to determine the correct parts is to disassemble a hub on one side of the trailer and get the bearing part numbers off of the bearings that are on the spindle. I put together a drawing showing where part numbers are and/or how to measure to determine the correct parts for trailer hub and drum assemblies, see link. If your hubs have a 6 on 5-1/2 inch bolt circle, you...
    view full answer...
  • Cross Reference of the TruRyde Grease Seal Part # RG06-090
    The Transcom part 21334TB is the same as our part # RG06-090 which is a double lip grease seal that has an inner diameter of 2.125" and a outer diameter of 3.376. It is designed to be used with 5,200, 6,000 and 7,000 lb axles. I would not be able to tell you which stores carry this seal but I can however provide you with the cross reference numbers from different manufacturers below: Dexter- part 010-010-00 National - part 470972 NOK - part AD8717EO Chicago Rawhide- part 21352 I...
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out a Grease Seal for a 5,200 lb Axle that Has Hubs with 6 on 5-1/2 inch Bolt Pattern
    Based on the information you provided I am nearly positive you would need the part # RG06-070 for replacement seals as these have an ID of 2.250 and an OD of 3.376. Based on the lug pattern and weight capacity of your axles these would be the correct seals for most trailer axles. You can pull off your trailer hub and measure the seal to be certain though.
    view full answer...
  • Grease / Oil Seals 10-10 Double Lip Seals RG06-090 are the Same as National 470972
    Yes, the RG06-090 replaces the National 470972. On the product page we have a link to the cross-reference for the National part number.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Recommendation For 6,000 Lb Axle With Dexter Hub Assembly
    For a grease seal that is used with a Dexter 6,000 EZ Lube axle and hub assembly like part # 8-201-9UC3-EZ, you would need part # RG06-090. This comes with a quantity of 2 seals in the package. It has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal Recommendation for Trailer Hub with Bearing Numbers LM67048 and 25580
    There are two seal options available for a hub that has the two bearing numbers you mentioned LM67048 and 25580. If your spindle measures 2.125 inches where the seal rides you need the 10-10 # RG06-090. If instead you have an inner diameter of 2.25 inches you'd need the part # RG06-070.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement for Transcom 21334TC and 2133TB
    According to my research the Transcom part 21334TC is an oil seal with a 2.125" inner diameter and a 3.372" outer diameter and the Transcom part 2133TB is a grease seal with a 2.125" inner diameter and a 3.376" outer diameter. Generally speaking, a grease and oil seal cannot be replaced with one another. However, we do have one that can be used in both grease and oil, the 10-10 Grease or Oil Double-Lip Seal part # RG06-090. This should work as a replacement for both part 2133TB and part...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Seals for AL-KO 1536852 Seals
    The seals that you would need to replace your AL-KO 1536852 seals are the TruRyde Grease / Oil Seals 10-10 (Pair) - Double Lip Seals # RG06-090. They have an inner diameter of 2.125", an outer diameter of 3.376", and are used for 5,200 lb - 7,000 lb axles. I have attached a review video that you can check out as well.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seal # RG06-090 Replacement Recommendation for DL600 Seals
    The DL600 seals you referenced have the same dimensions as the TruRyde Seals # RG06-090 that you also referenced. The # RG06-090 should work very well for you, and are double-lip like you wanted.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement for TCM 21334 Grease Seals
    We carry the seals you are looking for, double lip seals # RG06-090. These seals have an inner diameter of 2.125", an outer diameter of 3.376" and is for use of E-Z Lube and Oil 5,200, 6,000 and 7,000 LB Axles. I've added a link to a review video of this product for you to take a look at.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Seals Needed for a Weekend Warrior Triple Axle Trailer with 6000 Pound Axles
    The best way to determine the correct grease seals for your triple axle trailer would be to take a few precise measurements. I recommend using a set of digital dial calipers to obtain these measurements. You will need to measure the grease seal portion of the spindle as well as the diameter of the hub to determine the correct grease seal for your triple axle trailer. I have included a diagram showing these measurement locations for you. I have included a video and a helpful article...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Seal Recommendation for Dexter 6k Trailer Axle
    For that size Dexter axle there are two seals that potentially could be the correct one with the only difference being the inner diameter. If the ID is 2.125 the part you need is # RG06-090, if instead it's 2.25 then you'd need the part # RG06-070. You'll have to pull off the hub on the trailer to get the dimension by either measuring the spindle of the axle or the inner diameter of the old seal.
    view full answer...
  • Double Lip Seal Recommendation for a Taiwan TCM 21333TB Seal Replacement
    The spring you are referencing is what makes a grease seal a double lip seal. The # 10-1 is a single lip seal, and the 10-10 part # RG06-090 is the double lip seal.
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  • What is the Proper Grease Seal for a 12 Inch by 2 Inch Dexter Hub with a 6 on 5-1/2 Bolt Pattern
    The best way to determine what seal you will need for your Dexter drums is to find the bearing numbers stamped onto the back side of the bearings or the part number of the seal which should be located on the rubber part of the seal. There will be an inner and outer bearing. With that information, I can tell you the exact seal that you will need. You can also measure the inner and outer diameter of the seal. The measurements have to be as accurate as possible so I recommend using dial...
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    I wish I had a hub that would work on the spindles you have on your trailer. But none of the hubs we carry work with your bearing combination. That outer bearing you have is the problem. It's usually only used on agricultural hubs like part # AH15450ECOMP. Honestly your best option would be to replace the axle. I attached a page that has all of our axles we carry that come with hubs that have 4 on 4 inch bolt patterns. You will need to know the distance between the hub faces on your...
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  • What Grease Seal Will Fit With Bearing # LM67048
    The bearing you referenced, part # LM67048, we show as an OUTER bearing for applications in hub # 8-201-5. We offer this bearing as part of a kit along with inner bearing # 25580 and seal # GS-2125DL; the part number for the complete kit is # BK3-310. This included GS-2125DL seal has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches; if you can measure your spindle with a digital caliper you can verify the fit. The linked photo will show you where to measure.
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    You will want to measure to be certain. The smaller 10-10 seal # RG06-090 in the # 8-213-5UC1-EZ hub assembly kit has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. This seal is more commonly found with hubs that use outer bearing # LM67048, because these are the 5,200 lb hubs. This seal hasn't been around as long as the larger seal, and so it is not yet included with any bearing kit. The larger 10-36 seal # RG06-070 in the bearing kit # BK3-300, which has...
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  • What is the Right Grease Seal for Inner Trailer Hub Bearing L68149
    The seal associated with inner bearing # L68149 is # RG06-050. The inner diameter of this seal is 1.719 inches and the outer diameter is 2.565 inches. But it is designed for use with 3,500 pound axles. You will need to check the old seal measurements to see if they match up. Seals inner diameters can be hard to measure. You will want to use a set of digital calipers to get the most accurate measurement as possible.
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  • Selecting Correct Replacement Grease Seal for Inner Bearing LM67048
    In applications that use inner bearing # LM67048 and race # LM67010 the grease seal most often specified is part # GS-2125DL. This is a double-lip seal. You can confirm the correct grease seal by taking two measurements, of the spindle where the inner diameter of the seal rides on it, and at the back of the hub where the seal is inserted. You can refer to the linked diagram. At point B you can measure the spindle diameter to ensure it will mate well with the seal's inner diameter of...
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    Trailer makers can change spindles and seals without notice. You might get lucky and be able to confirm this with Keystone by providing your VIN but this is probably a longshot. You'll need pull only the one hub from your Mountaineer 315RLS to confirm both your bearings and seals. You can refer to the linked diagram to see how these parts' numbers usually appear. If you can find a sticker on your axles that indicates their weight rating then you can refer to the article I linked which...
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  • Recommended Replacements for a Trailer Hub With an LM67048 Inner Bearing and LM11949 Outer Bearing
    It sounds like you have an agricultural style hub, like our part # AH15450ECOMP. In reality, replacement items are available for your current setup, but because you mention that this a boat trailer, your best option would really be to switch out to an EZ-Lube assembly. The current agricultural hub might hold up if you are just submerging them once or twice a season, but for repeated use you will really want to switch out the spindle, hub, and wheels. I would recommend going with...
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  • Locating Replacement Hub/Drum for 1990 Shorelandr Boat Trailer w/ Agricultural Hubs
    Typically agricultural spindles are meant for low-speed applications, and not highway use so the axles they're used on wouldn't typically have brakes. This explains why you're having a hard time finding replacements. Boat trailer manufacturers are notorious for designing proprietary parts. The trailer manufacturer would be the best source for obtaining replacements. Replacing the spindles would seem like an easy solution, but getting spindles correctly welded into place is a highly specialized...
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  • Grease Seal Recommendation for a Lowes Utility Trailer
    Based on the number you listed it would appear as if you need the grease seal part # RG06-090 as this is a 10-10 grease seal. But you need to measure your old seal to be certain. This seal has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. If you have different dimensions check out the link I attached to see all of the grease seals we carry. You will want to select your seals dimensions from the filters.
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Info for this part was:

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Video Edited:
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