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Grease Cap, 2.44" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2

Grease Cap, 2.44" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2

Item # RG04-080
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps RG04-080 - E-Z Lube Grease Cap - TruRyde
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Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. Grease Cap, 2.44" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2 part number RG04-080 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-496-5010 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - RG04-080

  • Caps
  • E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  • 2.441 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde

Trailer Hub Grease Cap, 2.44" OD Drive In with Plug

  • Quantity: 2
  • Plugs included
  • For EZ lube axles
EZ-Lube Grease Caps pictured with Plugs

RG04-080 Grease Cap, 2.44" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2

Video of Grease Cap, 2.44" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Reviews

Grease Cap, 2.44" OD Drive In with Plug - Qty 2 - RG04-080

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (160 Customer Reviews)


Great fit on our 2007 Dutchman Colorado Fifth Wheel. I have to file the leading on the first install but after that a perfect fit every time.


"Corroded/rusty grease seal I received was promptly replaced with a new one being sent to me. Thanks etrailer for the prompt response!"


Great products. Fast delivery. Outstanding customer service. They go out of their way to ensure you get the product you are looking for.


After a year this product has held up well. Exactly as described


Great product. Purchased to replace damaged/missing grease caps.


Exactly as Described. Dust Caps fit perfectly and the shipping was fast!

Works great!
Joshua - 09/20/2021


Product was ok. They are exactly what I needed

Caps purchased were tight and difficult to indtsll
Malcolm - 03/31/2022


Replaced axles, new had EZ-Lube spindles and reused older drums and needed to retro fit with these Grease fitting access, dust caps. Worked perfectly

Good looking product, good tight fit. When installing the first time you'll need to file the burr off the edge and chamfer it slightly to get them started. They're still tight but you can persuade them with a wood block and hammer, without damage. They need to fit that tight and all four were uniform in fit, Thanks.

Have had no problem. Good heavy plating is still holding with no rust through.
Chuck H - 01/28/2015


Arrived eary!


Over a year ago I had a used trailer given to me. It needed end caps, you call them grease caps. I bought, I installed, and now the trailer sits. ( haven't used it ) I'd send a picture but trailer is under a foot of ice and snow.


etrailer works hard to fill my orders. And I appreciate that!
Bill V.


Perfect fit, sealed great


Easy ordering, fast shipping, and exactly what I wanted.

Great experience!

Working great!
Tami - 10/22/2021


I ordered one to replace a missing cap and a second to have as a spare. The cap fit properly and has stayed in place since it was installed.


Fast service and no issues


Came quick and fit right


I love working with etrailer. They help me get the right products for my trailer and it arrived quickly!


Great replacement for OEM caps.


After purchasing several other hub grease caps I was finally able to find the correct one at The price was very competitive(less than several others) and shipping was free and fast. I have always had positive experience while purchasing from


These were just a few thousandths too big in diameter. I ended up cutting 2 slots in the ring that goes into the hub to allow the caps to fit and compress. Worked perfect after that


Install tool needed for installation. Didn't think I would need it but as soon as I started to tap with a hammer I realized it wasn't going in without it. The cap is quality material and design. I've chosen for my trailer rebuild and haven't been disappointed yet.


My order shipped and was delivered faster than expected. The parts are top quality and the installation has gone smoothly. I am very pleased with the staff at e trailer as they were very helpful, courteous, and were genuinely concerned with my order. I definitely will order again from e trailer and will recommend them to my friends.

Thank you e trailer for your help.


My package arrived on time just as I expected. I was a bit disappointed with the packing. Everything came in one box. The Grease caps did not install well. They were not true round and seemed to have flared on the installed side. After denting one 1, I took and ground a bevel in the caps so I could install them. Looks like a supplier issue or the fact that the 2 free range brake assembly may have made installation difficult.


The cap I had measured with a tape measure (2 3/8") the caps that I ordered were 2.44". I put them on today. They were a perfect fit. squared them up and used a block of wood and tapped them on.
Thanks etrailer


Fit perfectly! Easy access to the grease fittings.

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Dust Cap Recommendation for Ranger Trail Boat Trailer 9606087
    You will want to use a dial caliper or micrometer to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer to determine what size cap would be needed. Check out the picture I attached that shows this measurement being taken on a hub. I wish there was a different way but this is the only reliable method. I attached a link to all the grease caps we offer, once you know what size you need check out the link I attached to see all the sizes we offer.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Dust Cap Recommendation for Trailer Hub that is Slightly Smaller than 2.5 inch
    We have dust caps that have an outer diameter of 2.441 inches which would be a little bit smaller than what you tried. For that you would want the part # RG04-080.
    view full answer...
  • Grease Cap Recommendation for a Trailer Hub
    In order to know what grease cap you would need you need to get an exact measurement with a dial or digital caliper. Tape measures aren't accurate enough since you are looking at the difference of .07 of an inch. If it measures 2.44 the part # RG04-080 would be the correct cap. Most likely this is what you have but I attached a page that has all of the caps we offer, select your outer diameter needed from the filters.
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  • How to Pick Out Grease Caps for a Trailer Hub
    You will want to use a dial caliper or micrometer to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer to determine what size cap would be needed. Check out the picture I attached that shows this measurement being taken on a hub. I attached a link to all the grease caps we offer, once you know what size you need check out the link I attached to see all the sizes we offer.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • E-Z Lube Grease Cap With 2.4395 Outside Diameter
    I recommend E-Z Lube Grease Cap, 2.44" OD Drive In with Plug part # RG04-080 with a 2.44 outer diameter.
    view full answer...
  • How and Where to Measure to Find a Replacement Grease Cap for a Trailer
    You would measure the outside diameter of a grease cap or the inner diameter of the hub bore where the grease cap installs. But the measurement has to be as accurate as possible so you would need to use dial or digital calipers to take the measurement. Another option is to get at least the outer bearing number stamped into the side of the bearing. You should be able to see it without removing the hub by wiping away the grease. I have included a link to our grease cap main page for you as well.
    view full answer...
    Image 1 for
  • Availability of Grease Cap that Fits Bore of 2.43 inch
    Are you maybe asking about the grease cap? I believe you are since a very common size is 2.44 inch like the part # RG04-080.
    view full answer...
  • Recommended 2.5" E-Z Lube Grease Cap with Rubber Center Plug
    It sounds like you're looking for the E-Z Lube Grease Cap part # RG04-080 which is designed for a 2.44" hub bore. Please note, the grease cap that is designed for the hub bore is an exact figure that needs to be taken with a caliper but this size is standard for larger 5,200lb + axles and that is 2.44".
    view full answer...
  • What is Height of Grease Cap part # RG04-080
    The overall height of the Grease Cap part # RG04-080 is right at 1-1/2 inches and the diameter is 2.44 inches so this would work well for you.
    view full answer...
  • EZ Lube Grease Cap Larger Than 2 Inches
    There is not a cap with a 2.125 inch outer diameter; the next size up from the 1.98 inch outer diameter # RG04-040 is 2.44 inches, the Grease Cap, 2.44" OD Drive-In With Plug - Qty 2 # RG04-080. I have added a link to a video review as well as a link to our entire selection of caps, which you can filter by size.
    view full answer...
  • Dust Cap Recommendation For Trailer Hub With A Diameter Of 2.44 Inches
    The Grease Cap # RG04-080 has an outer diameter of 2.441 inches and will work for your trailer hub. I attached a review video link below.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Grease Cap and Wheel Studs for a RV Trailer Hub with ALKO Electric Brakes
    The grease cap part number that you referenced cross references to a drive in cap with a 2.44 inch outside diameter. If you have a standard cap then the Grease Cap, 2.44 inch OD Drive In, item # RG04-060, is the correct part. If you have a grease fitting in the end of the spindle then the Grease Cap, 2.44 inch OD Drive In with Plug, item # RG04-080, would be the correct part. These parts are correct only if the 092101 part you mentioned is correct. The correct inner and outer bearing part...
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  • How to Determine Correct E-Z Lube Grease Cap
    To determine the correct E-Z Lube grease cap you are going to need to measure the center of the hub where the grease cap is going to fit (please see accompanying photo). The measurement will need to be very precise so you are going to want to use digital calipers such as # 301-17068. You will then just compare that to the available caps. Grease Cap # RG04-040 will fit a hub bore of 1.99 inches. Grease Cap # RG04-080 will fit a hub bore of 2.44 inches. Grease Cap # RG04-120 will fit...
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    Image 1 for
  • Replacement E-Z Lube Grease Cap and Plug for 2005 Casita Travel Trailer
    In order to determine the correct E-Z Lube grease cap for your Dexter axle you are going to need to measure the center of the hub where the grease cap is going to fit. I recommend using digital calipers like the # PTW80157 in order to get an accurate measurement. Once you have your measurement you can match it up to the correct grease cap which comes with the plug. The # RG04-040 will fit a hub bore of 1.99 inches, the # RG04-080 will fit a hub bore of 2.44 inches, and the # RG04-120 will...
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  • Will Grease Cap RG04-080 Fit with Center Cap # 425EZ
    The center cap part # 425EZ is designed to fit EZ lube spindle grease caps like the part # RG04-080. They have the depth and width to fit over the center cap. If these were both the correct size for your wheel and hub they would work well together as they have removable center sections.
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  • Grease Cap for E-Z Lube Axle
    Since you mentioned 2-3/8 inches (2.375) as the inside diameter it is likely that you need the Grease Caps # RG04-080 which has an outside diameter of 2.441 inches. The best way to find exactly what cap you need is by measuring your hub bore with a digital caliper such as # 301-17068, as that will tell you the diameter of the cap that will fit. I have added a link to a video review of this cap for you to take a look at.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Dust Cap for Hub with 2.312 Inch Opening
    I have a solution for you, but it's unlikely that you're going to be able to use the # RG04-080 because of the difference in size. If you don't have EZ lube axles, you could use the Fulton Grease Cap # F001601 which has a diameter of 2.33" and would be a much closer fit for your trailer-in fact, if you look through some of the reviews there are some Ranger boat owners who've said this was a match for their trailer. This is a zinc plated steel grease cap that will provide good corrosion...
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  • Replacement Rubber Lube Plug For 2.44 E-Z Lube Grease Cap
    We have the 1.18" Rubber Lube Plug # DC-RP that fits the 2.44" Grease Cap # RG04-080.
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  • Which Grease Caps fit Trailer Hub Part # 8-201-5
    For hub 8-201-5 you will need 2.44 inch OD drive in caps. We have several caps available for this size like part # RG04-060, which is a standard cap, or part # RG04-080, which have removable plugs for checking grease or bearings.
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  • Replacement Bearing Cover Options for Bri-Mar Dump Trailer
    You will need one of two sizes depending on the axle capacity of your Bri-Mar dump trailer. If you have 7,000 lbs or 8,000 lbs axles, then you will need part # 21-43-1 and # DC-RP if you have EZ Lube spindles (grease zerk on the end) or you can use part # RG04-100 if you have standard spindles. If you have 5,200 lbs or 6,000 lbs axles, then you will want part # RG04-080 if you have EZ Lube spindles or part # RG04-060 if you have standard spindles.
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  • Dimensions of Replacement Rubber Grease or Oil Cap Plug
    The Rubber Lube Plug - Fits 1.18" Lubed Dust Cap # DC-RP is the replacement for the # RG04-040 grease cap as well as larger caps like the 2.44" OD Drive In Grease Cap with Plug # RG04-080. The Grease Cap Plug fro E-Z Lube Grease Caps is the same size and is part # RG04-010. We have the Dexter Oil Cap plug with is much smaller at 0.55 inch diameter and the other Dexter oil cap plug that is bigger # 46-32 which is 0.88 inch diameter. The Replacement Center Plug for Kodiak XLProLube Oil...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement EZ-Lube Grease Cap and Rubber Plug
    It sounds like you need an EZ-Lube type grease cap and rubber plug for your trailer hub. We have these EZ-Lube grease caps in several sizes to fit a range of hubs. All are shown on the linked page. All you need to do is measure your hub's inside bore diameter to choose the correct matching grease cap. Part # RG04-040 fits a hub bore of 1.99-inches. Part # RG04-080 fits a hub bore of 2.44-inches. Part # RG04-120 fits a hub bore of 2.72-inches. This is the size that fits the hub you...
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  • Grease Seals and Dust Caps for AL-KO Trailer Hubs with 25580 and 15123 Bearings
    The most grease seal associated with hubs that use the bearings you have specified is # GS-2250DL for 1 seal or # RG06-070 for a pair. For a grease cap you will likely need a 2.44 inch cap as that is the size associated with the hubs that use the bearings you mentioned. If the spindle has a grease fitting at the end use # RG04-080. If the spindles do not have grease fittings use # RG04-060.
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  • Replacement Trailer Bearings for Kodiak 6 Bolt Disc Brakes
    Kodiak disc brakes that have a 6 bolt pattern all use the same bearings and races. It is kit # BK3-100. The outer bearing is # 15123. The correct size grease cap for an EZ lube axle would be # RG04-080 which is a 2.44 inch diameter. The race will have the smallest of lips for you to catch a flat screwdriver or piece of pipe on so you can knock it out of the hub. I have included a link to a video and a link to an FAQ article that should help you.
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