When your cargo outgrows your vehicle, this complete utility trailer kit adds the extra hauling space you need. Rail sides, a finished floor, and everything needed for assembly get you ready for work, home projects, and weekend adventures.
Your vehicle may have enough towing capacity for the job but not enough room for lumber, yard waste, tools, or bulky supplies. This complete trailer kit gives that cargo its own dedicated space with a finished floor and 11-inch rail sides to help keep loose loads contained on the road. The 1,000-lb gross vehicle weight rating includes the trailer's 235-lb empty weight, leaving 765 lbs available for cargo.
Utility trailers often spend more time parked outside than they do on the road, so durability and routine maintenance matter just as much as hauling capacity. Galvalume Plus steel construction helps protect the trailer from rust and weather exposure, while E-Z Lube hubs make regular bearing service easier to keep up with. Together, those features help reduce upkeep so the trailer is ready when the next project comes along.
Buying a utility trailer usually means spending half your Saturday driving to a trailer dealership, walking the lot, and explaining what you plan to haul. Instead, this complete kit is shipped to your home with the frame, finished floor, side rails, lights, wiring, safety chains, coupler, hardware, and assembly instructions, giving you everything needed to build a full-size utility trailer at home.
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Instructor Welcome to the Westbrook Kit Trailer Assembly video. Today, we'll be putting together the four by six kit trailer with plank floor and rail sides. If you're assembling a kit trailer without a floor, certain steps will vary. Please watch for instruction prompts along the way. This video will cover all the steps to complete the assembly of the following four models. Before unboxing any parts of your trailer, please ensure you have received all of your boxes.
The registration documentation for the trailer is enclosed in a brown envelope on the outside of box one. We recommend keeping these documents along with your bill of sale in a safe place. For Canadian residents, please match your VIN number with your NVIS form. For US residents, please match your VIN number with your certificate of origin title form. You will find the instruction manual inside of box one.
Here's a list of the tools you will need to complete the assembly. You can stop the video at this point to take note of the needed tools. Now let's start the assembly process. Step one, stake pocket and grommet installation. All channels have been labeled on the inside with the item code for easy reference.
Take the frame channels and your eight stake pockets. Line the stake pockets up to the pre-drilled holes and secure with one four by three, four inch hex bolts and one four inch lock nuts using a 7/16 inch deep socket. Take your two cross channels and install the electrical grommet on both ends. Step two, frame assembly. For this step, refer to the frame diagram in your kit trailer assembly instructions for your model.
Only hand tighten the hardware during the frame assembly or until you have completed the tongue assembly portion. If you tighten the hardware at the step, you will need to go back and loosen it to install the tongue. The edge of the frame channels can be very sharp. Please wear your safety gloves provided in the kit when handling the frame to prevent injury. Take your front channel, the one with two vertical slots, and place it at the front. Take the passenger side channel and position it on the side. The square holes have to be facing down and the marker light holes have to be positioned toward the front of the trailer. Repeat the process for the driver's side. Take the rear channel and place it at the back with the three holes facing up. Take your first cross channel and using a three eight by one and a half inch bolts and nuts, hand tighten it to the top of the side channels as per the diagram in the instructions manual. Take your second cross channel and hand tighten it to the top pre-drilled hole that is parallel to the last square hole. Hand tighten the cross channels only at the top for now as you will secure the bottom of them when you install the axle. If you have a four by four kit trailer, you will need to secure it at the top and bottom. At the front corner, overlap the side channel over the front channel without inserting the side channel inside. Then use a three eight by three quarter inch bolt and nut to hand tighten the bottom only. At the back corner, insert the side channel inside the back channel and hand tighten the bottom only. Repeat the previous steps for the passenger side. Step three, tongue assembly. Start by sliding one tongue channel through the vertical slot of the front channel with the angled side at the front. If the tongue isn't aligning with the frames holes, make sure all bolts are loose before adjusting. Install the electrical grommets on the tongue channel. Repeat the two previous steps on the other side of the trailer. Hand tighten the tongue channels to the side channel on top using three eight by one and a half inch hex bolts and nuts. And at the bottom, using three eights by three quarter inch hex bolts and nuts. Hand tighten the tongue channels to the front channel using three eights by three quarter inch hex bolts and nuts. Step four, tongue connection. Place the tongue connection bracket in position with the threaded holes facing up. Don't slide it all the way in yet. Separate the wires from the harness and feed the yellow and brown wire down the driver's side and the green and brown wire down the passenger side. Leave the white wire at the front. You'll attach it to the coupler channel later. To attach the tongue connection bracket, start by sliding it into one of the side channels, pushing it forward as you insert it into the opposite channel. Be careful not to pinch any wires. Line up the bracket to the pre-drilled holes and then secure it using three eighths by three quarter inch flange bolts on top using a nine by 16 inch socket. Now that you have completed the tongue assembly, go ahead and secure all the top bolts, including the bolts that connect the tongue channel to the front channel. Step five, coupler hitch and safety chain. Start by placing the long coupler channel with the opening facing up. Next, grab the safety chain and locate the center link. Insert a three-eighth by two and a half inch hex bolt through the third hole of the coupler channel. Threading it through the center chain link and into the coupler channel. The bolt will be a tight fit. You may need to use a rubber mallet to help it through. At this point, only hand tighten the bolt as it will be removed at a later point. Secure the coupler to the channel with three eight by three inch hex bolts and 3/8 inch lug nuts. Tighten these bolts with a 9/16 inch socket and wrench, making sure it's tight enough so the tongue foot doesn't move, but the coupler latch can release. Pull the excess wire through the connection bracket all the way through the back, leaving enough of the front to connect the white wire to the chain bolts on the coupler channel. Slide the assembled coupler channel into the tongue connection. Be careful not to pinch any wiring. Line up the holes of the tongue connection bracket. Secure them with half inch by three and a half inch hex bolts and half inch lug nuts using a three fourth socket and wrench. Remove the lock nut from the chain bolt and place the grounds ring terminal on the bolt. Secure it with the lock nut using a 9/16 socket and wrench. Don't over tighten to avoid damaging the ring terminal. With the help of another person, move the frame out of the way to begin the installation of the floor. This area where you put the floor will be where you complete the final assembly of the trailer. Step six, floor assembly and secure V connection. All your hardware for floor assembly as located in your floor box. Position all nine floor planks side by side. Ensure all the planks are facing the same direction by identifying the double notches underneath and laying them at the front. Take one of the U-channels and insert the three eighths by three quarter inch flange bolts in four of the holes, skipping the middle one. Hand tighten with the three-eighths inch nuts. This will help keep the bolt in place until you install the floor on the frame of the trailer. Slide the four planks around the bolts. Then slide the remaining planks into the U-channel. Fasten the planks to the U-channel using the self-tapping screws. Take the second U-channel. Insert three three-eighths by three-quarter inch flange bolts using the two outer holes and the middle hole and hand tighten with the three-eighth nuts. Place the U-channel at the back of the floor on the ground and secure the first corner with a screw. This will allow you to pivot the U-channel in order to fit the other planks. You will need to sit the planks at the very edge of the U-channel. Once all planks are slightly sitting on the U-channel, slide them into place and fasten with screws. Flip the floor and place it in the area that you will be finishing the assembly. Remove the seven nuts from the front and back U-channels. Set the frame upside down on top of the floor, lining up the front four holes and the back three holes. Place all nuts on the seven floor bolts and secure the floor to the frame with three-eighths inch lock nuts. Secure the tongue V connection to the four pre-drilled holes of the tongue channel using the cutting screws and a half-inch socket. Now is the time to secure all the remaining bolts of the frame. Step seven, fender plate and marker light. At this point, if you're working on the ground, you'll need to elevate the trailer four or five inches off the ground to provide enough clearance for the fender plate installation. Securing the hardware to the fender plate will be more challenging if the floor is already installed. Line up the fender support plate with the frame. Secure it in place with machine screws, 10 and 10 lug nuts using a three-eighths inch socket and a Phillips screwdriver. If the holes are not perfectly aligned, use a punch to align them. Repeat on the other side. Take in marker light, remove the nut at the back, and insert the stud and wire into the pre-drilled hole. Tighten with a 10 millimeter socket. Starting on the driver's side, carefully separate the brown and yellow wires near the marker light using a knife. Be careful not to expose any wiring. Push the brown wire into the channel of the blue wire connector and slide the marker light wire into the opening of the connector, making sure no wire sticks out. Use pliers to squeeze the metal blade of the connector until it's tight. Check that the blade is fully in place and close the cover. Repeat these steps on the other side of the trailer. Using the zip ties, secure the wiring the frame and cut excess wire at the back, leaving six inches left. Step eight, axle assembly and installation. Before proceeding with the axle assembly, all the bolts on the frame should be tight. Place the leaf spring mounting brackets to the square holes on each side of the frame, making sure the round holes of the brackets are oriented closest to the center. Secure with a three-eighths by three quarters inch carriage bolt and a three-eighths inch lug nut using a 9/16th inch socket. If there's no cross channel where you're mounting the bracket, use a washer as a spacer. Lay your axle down, ensuring the welded U-brackets are facing up. Place the spring on top of the axle, making sure the bolt lines up with the center hole of the U-brackets. Take the U-bolts and place them around the axle at both sides of the spring. Take a mounting plate and place it on top of the U-bolts with the oval holes facing front to back. Secure, but do not tighten and repeat on the other side. Make sure that both springs are facing the same direction. Lay the axle with springs into the mounting brackets, making sure the eye of the spring it toward the front and the flat side towards the back. Secure each spring with 9/16ths inch hex bolts and nut with a 7/8th inch socket and wrench at front and back of the spring. Do not over tighten. You want the springs to be able to move a bit. Then tighten all the U-bolts securely. Step nine, screw floor, fenders and tires installation. Flip the frame with the help of a second person, being sure to take all the safety precautions. Screw the floor in place with the cutting screws using an impact. Position the fender over the fender plate. Insert a three-eighths by three quarter inch hex flange bolt into the top hole and hand tighten it with a three-eighths inch lug nut, ensuring the nut is inside the fender. Line up and secure the two side bolts. Finally, tighten all bolts using a 9/16ths inch socket and wrench. Put the tire on the hub and hand tighten to the rim with half inch wheel nuts. The tapered end should be facing the rim. Use a torque wrench and a 13/16 inch socket to tighten the wheel nuts in a star shaped pattern. Use torque to 95 feet pound. Repeat on the other side of the trailer. Step 10, taillights, light test, and VIN labels. At the back of the driver's side, you will need to separate the yellow and brown wires with a knife. Strip a quarter inch of insulation from the ends of both wires and twist the copper ends. Push each wire into the corresponding hole at the back of the taillight by removing the nuts at the back and running the wire along the recessed groove. Place the license plate holder on the studs. Then insert the taillight on the back channel of the trailer using a 10 millimeter socket. Do the same on the passenger side, excluding the license plate holder. Test the lights before using the trailer. Place the VIN label on the driver's side of the tongue channel and put the clear overlay on top. Make sure you have verified your VIN label matches your registration documents. If you do not have rails, your assembly process is complete and you are good to go on the road once you have registered your trailer and attached the license plate. Step 11, rail side installation. Take one of the rail side and insert the side posts into the stake pockets, lining them up with the stake pocket hole. Secure each side post with a three eight 16 three quarters inch hex bolt and three eight 16 lock pins. Repeat the process for all remaining side rails. Attach hell brackets to the bottom rail at each corner and fasten it with a three eight 16 inch by two and a half inch hex bolt and three 86 hex flange lock pin using a nine 16 inch socket. And now your trailer is ready to use. Thank you for watching the video and we hope you enjoy your brand new trailer.
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