2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1

2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1

Item # DC250L-DCRP

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Our Price: $7.76

Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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DC250L-DCRP - E-Z Lube Grease Cap TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  • Caps
  • E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  • 2.441 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde
Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1 part number DC250L-DCRP can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


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  • Reviews (40)
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  • Videos (2)
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - DC250L-DCRP


2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap w/ Rubber Plug


  • Construction: 22 gauge, zinc coated steel
  • Dimensions: 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18"
  • Includes rubber plug

DC-250L TruRyde 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap & DC-RP TruRyde Rubber Plug



This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1026LS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1028FKS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1030FK

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1030FKS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1032FKS

2010 - 2010 Skyline Freestyle TT Toy Hauler 183B

2010 - 2010 Skyline Rampage TT Toy Hauler 183B

2010 - 2010 Skyline Trailrider TT Toy Hauler 183B

2019 - 2019 Coachmen Apex Nano Travel Trailer 203RBK

2019 - 2019 Coachmen Apex Nano Travel Trailer 208BHS

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 20LK

2014 - 2014 Jayco White Hawk Ultra Lite Travel Trailer 20MRB

2019 - 2019 Forest River Salem FSX TT Toy Hauler 210RT

2019 - 2019 Forest River Wildwood FSX TT Toy Hauler 210RT

2017 - 2019 Coachmen Apex Nano Travel Trailer 213RDS

2012 - 2012 Cruiser RV Viewfinder Signature Travel Trailer 21B

2017 - 2017 Coachmen Viking Travel Trailer 21BH

2014 - 2014 Jayco White Hawk Ultra Lite Travel Trailer 21FBS

2017 - 2017 Coachmen Viking Travel Trailer 21FQ

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Stellar TT Toy Hauler 21FSLE

2017 - 2017 Coachmen Viking Travel Trailer 21RD

2019 - 2019 Eclipse Attitude TT Toy Hauler 21SALE

2007 - 2007 Coachmen Adrenaline TT Toy Hauler 228FB

2012 - 2012 Skyline Weekender TT Toy Hauler 229

2010 - 2010 Skyline Freestyle TT Toy Hauler 229B

2010 - 2010 Skyline Rampage TT Toy Hauler 229B

2010 - 2010 Skyline Trailrider TT Toy Hauler 229B

2013 - 2013 Forest River Wolf Pup Travel Trailer 22BP

2010 - 2012 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 22LK

2012 - 2012 Cruiser RV Viewfinder Signature Travel Trailer 22RBDS

See All Vehicle Fits



Video of 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1 - DC250L-DCRP

Average Customer Rating:  4.8 out of 5 stars   (40 Customer Reviews)


- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Taking off of the old ones and installing the new, with a rubber mallet, literally took seconds. Did 300 miles this past weekend and not one bit of grease on the chrome. Should have gotten them replaced a long time ago 136138



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

I have had nothing but good results from these people and their products so far I have rebuilt two trailers with their parts and all is well with both of them Thank you all. 387911


Comments

Still no problems with anything I have purchased. All is well

Al C - 06/02/2018

39158

- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Product was as described and properly packaged. No regrets here. 549950



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

They were great after slightly grinding the edge where you push them in as there were just a hair to small and now they look and fit nicely. 412694


Comments

still great

Thomas n - 08/01/2018

41802

- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Worked well as replacement for my old, earn and damaged grease caps on my utility trailer. Shipping was prompt snd ordering and customer service was great. Would use etrailer for my tralee part needs in the future . Follow up email was very professional and much appreciated! 651225



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Fit good and are exactly what I ordered as described. And received quickly! Thank you. 650726



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Perfect 600555



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Very nice piece 562254



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

great prices and speedy delivery 556288



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Fit fit exactly like it was supposed to 556244



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

As always my order came quickly, and was exactly what I needed! 550874



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Over the past 30 days I have placed two orders requiring technical advise from the team at etrailer. The experience has been great and everything fit perfectly!! 457844



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

This dust cap was a perfect replacement for my old caps that were bent up from 10 years of use. It cleaned up the whole appearance of the wheel assembly when we installed it. 448008



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

QUICK SERVICE AND FRIENDLY STAFF 437286



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Good tight fit ,,, 436373



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

fits tight 428547



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

A great product at an excellent price. 424214



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Previous lube cap had fallen off. As always, etrailer had a replacement and shipped out immediately, arriving in a few days. New one fit perfectly. Great service on all my orders...several over last few years. Parts always as described. 420136



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

I have always had excellent services , with quality products ! 417003



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Great replacement and tight fit for missing or damaged caps, the access rubber grommets for grease fittings make for a quick lube job. I would definitely buy again if I ever needed a new cap. 385836


Comments

Have not had any problems with this product.

Gary W - 05/27/2018

38957

- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Fit like original. Impossible to find locally. 345713



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Great product and great delivery.Will do business with again and very professional 338529



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

All good 333767



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

These are good now that they are installed. They had to have the sharp edge ground off so they could be started into the hub. No problem otherwise. 311639



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

This was a make up for wrong shipment. They made the order good. Thanks 301156



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

It worked well fit well and still on the axle. Thanks for the good service. 296701



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

great products and service as always. 269289



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Every thing was just right 269280



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

GREAT 264626



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

etrailer is a very reputable company that provides a wide variety of quality products at a fair price. I will do business with them again. 263422



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Once I found out you had to hit them hard to press them in, they went in ok. Never had caps fit like that before. 261210



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Top notch business. Fantastic customer support and products at the best prices. My order was shipped within hours of making the order and parts arrived earlier than expected with no issues. I spoke with their technicians for help with ordering the correct parts and received excellent, friendly advice. 237464



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Product arrived on time and was an exact fit to the hub. 231846



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

they dont fit dexter hubs or drums. luckly i have the tool to make them work, a crimper used for down spout installation. , 223442



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Excellent fit, and shipped much faster than expected. 197961



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Great quality....perfect fit...fast & reasonable shipping. Thank you 146751



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

correct product and quantities 126359



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Good price, good communication, good pr oduct. 107734



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Exactly as described. Very fast service and delivery. 79323



- DC250L-DCRP
by:

Item was as described, but the O.D had a burr on it and I had to file a taper to get it to enguage into the trailer hub. 77550


40
40

Ask the Experts about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • How to Pick Out Replacement EZ Lube Grease Cap for Trailer Hub
  • You will want to use a dial caliper or micrometer to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer to determine what size cap would be needed. Check out the picture I attached that shows this measurement being taken on a hub. I attached a link to all the grease caps we offer, once you know what size you need check out the link I attached to see all the sizes we offer. If the dimension you find is 1.986 you'd want # 21-41-1, if you have a dimension of 2.441 you'd want...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Rubber Caps For Dexter E-Z Lube Hubs
  • The replacement rubber caps for EZ Lube hubs are # RG04-010. These are the lube plugs for 1.18 inch dust cap holes in those EZ Lube Grease Caps. These are the equivalent of the 85-1. If you need a different size dust cap, we only have what comes with the complete grease cap. We have Grease Cap, 1.99" OD EZ Lube Drive in with Plug - Qty 2 # RG04-040, 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1 # DC250L-DCRP.
    view full answer...

  • Dexter Part Number Cross-Reference for Dust Cap DC250L-DCRP
  • I checked the Dexter Axle website for the part you referenced, 021-042-021, and it does not come up. The part # DC250L-DCRP that we carry is a 22-gauge zinc-plated steel dust cap with a rubber plug for use with E-Z Lube spindles. The dimensions of this cap are 2.45- x 1.52- x 1.18-inches. I linked our main page for all E-Z Lube Grease Caps.
    view full answer...

  • How to Determine the Correct Replacement Grease Cap for a 2003 Bayliner 212
  • The main difference between the grease caps, # RG04-080 and # DC250L-DCRP, is that the RG04-080 is for EZ lube axles and DC250L-DCRP is for standard axles. I have created a short video for you showing where to measure on your hub to determine the correct size grease cap. If you measure and determine that these caps will work for you, then I would recommend using the RG04-080 if you have EZ lube spindles with a grease zerk in the end of the spindle. Keep in mind that you will want...
    view full answer...

  • Does Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug # DC250L-DCRP Have a Zerk Fitting to Add Grease
  • No, dust cap # DC250L-DCRP, is just a hollow dust cap. The rubber plug on the end can be removed to access the zerk fitting on EZ lube axles. For a cap that you can use to fill in grease you will want to look at bearing protectors, see link.
    view full answer...

  • Will TruRyde Dust Cap Work with Sure Lube Grease System on Karavan Trailer
  • Yes, the # DC250L-DCRP dust cap will work with the Sure Lube system on your Karavan trailer.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Hubs and Spindles for 2500 lb Homemade Trailer
  • The first thing to determine is if you want an idler hub or a hub/drum. The weight threshold at which brakes are mandated varies by state, so you might want to check that with your state police or highway patrol. If you decide on an idler hub (no brakes), I'd recommend the # 42655UC1 hub from Dexter Axle. The bearings, races, grease seal, lug bolts and grease cap are included. The hub will have more than enough capacity for your application. This hub would use the # R50642 spindle. For...
    view full answer...

  • How to Measure a Hub to Determine the Right Grease Cap to Use
  • To measure for a grease cap you will need to use something that can provide a very accurate measurement such as dial or digital calipers. Then you will measure the diameter at the center of the hub where the grease cap will fit. Grease cap # DC250L-DCRP would fit a 2.44 hub bore. I have included a picture that shows where to measure. Another way that you can determine the grease cap needed is to pull the hub and get the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the metal of the bearings....
    view full answer...

  • Dust Cap Driver Tool for TruRyde Lubed Dust Cap # DC250L-DCRP
  • For the TruRyde Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug # DC250L-DCRP referenced in your question, which has dimensions of 2.45 inch x 1.52 inch x 1.18 inch, you can use the Redline Dust Cap Driver Tool - Medium # 290-992. This can be used for installation, removal and servicing trailer hubs without denting the dust caps. I have attached a short video demonstration on this product for you to check out.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Dust Cap and Plug for Lippert Axle
  • I took a look at the parts you mentioned and they were only specified as a "dust cap for a 2.5" bore." For that you can use the 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug # DC250L-DCRP which measures 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18". I have added a link to a video review of this can and plug for you to check out as well.
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  • How to Pick Out Grease Cap for 2005 Fleetwood-Pioneer RV Trailer Axle
  • What you are looking for is a dust cover for an EZ-Lube spindle hub. We definitely can help but we need to know the diameter of the cap so that we can pick out the correct one. You'll need to remove the one you have and measure the outside diameter of the cap where it fits into the hub and we'll be able to pick you out what you need. If you have a 1.99 inch diameter you'd want the part # RG04-040, if you have a 2.45 inch diameter you'd need part # DC250L-DCRP, or if you have 2.72 inch...
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Info for this part was:

Photos by:
Theodore B
Expert Research:
Michael H
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Chris R

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