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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  5. 2.441 Inch O.D.
2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1

2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1

Item # DC250L-DCRP
Our Price: $13.36
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Shipping Weight: 0.13 lbs
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DC250L-DCRP - E-Z Lube Grease Cap TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from TruRyde. 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1 part number DC250L-DCRP can be ordered online at or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - DC250L-DCRP

  • Caps
  • E-Z Lube Grease Cap
  • 2.441 Inch O.D.
  • TruRyde

2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap w/ Rubber Plug

  • Construction: 22 gauge, zinc coated steel
  • Dimensions: 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18"
  • Includes rubber plug

DC-250L TruRyde 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap & DC-RP TruRyde Rubber Plug

Video of 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1 - DC250L-DCRP

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (127 Customer Reviews)


Perfect for. Makes greasing bearings ea sy



Caps are holding up exceptionally well. Never have any issues with products from trailer!!


we got what we ordered in about 4 days, all is good.



Everything is good, just like new.


This order consisted of two bearing hub covers with two rubber grommets. The rubber grommets came in stating the order was delivered, however the steel caps were not part of the shipment. So I had to call etrailers and ask them to send the rest of the order.


Fast shipping and perfect fit!


Great product delivered ahead of schedu le!


Worked perfectly. Thanks you


Fast, easy service! I will post a video on the installation of the entire brake kit and wheel assembly.


Great products!! Timely delivery.


Great replacement and tight fit for missing or damaged caps, the access rubber grommets for grease fittings make for a quick lube job. I would definitely buy again if I ever needed a new cap.

Gary W.


Have not had any problems with this product.


This doesn't fit a 2 1/2 inch ID axle, its made for a 2 3/8 so useless for what it states it is, deserves 0 stars

Etrailer Expert

Heather A.


To choose the correct dust cap you will want to measure the hub bore, not the diameter of the axle. This dust cap is has 2.441 Inch O.D. I recommend to measure the inner diameter of the hub bore with digital calipers part # PTW80157.


Bearing cap fit my travel trailer wheel hub just as it should. Nice snug fit with a good seal.


Great service


Excellent fit perfect


I have had nothing but good results from these people and their products so far I have rebuilt two trailers with their parts and all is well with both of them
Thank you all.

Al C.


Still no problems with anything I have purchased. All is well


Worked well as replacement for my old, earn and damaged grease caps on my utility trailer. Shipping was prompt snd ordering and customer service was great. Would use etrailer for my tralee part needs in the future .

Follow up email was very professional and much appreciated!


These caps look great and fit well. I have owned them for a year and they still look and function well. I love the removable rubber cap that lets me reach the zerk fitting on my ez lube axle without removing the entire cap.


This will be handy for easy access to my ez lube spindles. Only complaint, the one I received was a bit out of round. Consequently got a little dented being installed. But it works fine


they dont fit dexter hubs or drums. luckly i have the tool to make them work, a crimper used for down spout installation.


Fit perfectly on a lippert 6100 lb axle.


This dust cap was a perfect replacement for my old caps that were bent up from 10 years of use. It cleaned up the whole appearance of the wheel assembly when we installed it.


Previous lube cap had fallen off. As always, etrailer had a replacement and shipped out immediately, arriving in a few days. New one fit perfectly. Great service on all my orders...several over last few years. Parts always as described.


The product was great and the transaction was fast and easy.


Their staff was very helpful over the phone to ensure I had the right axle seals and the covers. Everything ordered arrived when they predicted and in perfect condition. i was extremely happy with my shopping experience with etrailer.


Didn’t fit very well. One popped out on the first trip, never to be seen again. The other side almost did too. I bought the bearing buddies as a replacement and have had no issues with them.


You guys always do a great job. Easy order, fast shipping!

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this TruRyde Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Does Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug # DC250L-DCRP Have a Zerk Fitting to Add Grease
    No, dust cap # DC250L-DCRP, is just a hollow dust cap. The rubber plug on the end can be removed to access the zerk fitting on EZ lube axles. For a cap that you can use to fill in grease you will want to look at bearing protectors, see link.
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  • Will TruRyde Dust Cap Work with Sure Lube Grease System on Karavan Trailer
    Yes, the # DC250L-DCRP dust cap will work with the Sure Lube system on your Karavan trailer.
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  • How to Measure a Hub to Determine the Right Grease Cap to Use
    To measure for a grease cap you will need to use something that can provide a very accurate measurement such as dial or digital calipers. Then you will measure the diameter at the center of the hub where the grease cap will fit. Grease cap # DC250L-DCRP would fit a 2.44 hub bore. I have included a picture that shows where to measure. Another way that you can determine the grease cap needed is to pull the hub and get the inner and outer bearing numbers stamped into the metal of the bearings....
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  • Which Trailer Hub Dust Cover Fits 6k Lippert Axle with 6 Lugs
    For a 5,200 lb trailer axle hub with 6 lugs the correct size dust cap/cover is 2.44 inches like the TruRyde cover part # DC250L-DCRP. Sounds like what you ordered was the version for the 8 lug hubs which is a slightly larger size.
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  • Replacement Dust Cap For Dexter 5,200LB E-Z Lube Trailer Axle
    The 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug # DC250L-DCRP is the size most commonly found on the 5,200lb Dexter Axles. The cap is has a 2.45" outside diameter where it slides into the axle hub. You can confirm that this is the correct measurement with a Digital Caliper # PTW80157 on your current hub/dust cover.
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  • Dust Cap Driver Tool for TruRyde Lubed Dust Cap # DC250L-DCRP
    For the TruRyde Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug # DC250L-DCRP referenced in your question, which has dimensions of 2.45 inch x 1.52 inch x 1.18 inch, you can use the Redline Dust Cap Driver Tool - Medium # 290-992. This can be used for installation, removal and servicing trailer hubs without denting the dust caps. I have attached a short video demonstration on this product for you to check out.
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  • Replacement Dust Cap and Plug for Lippert Axle
    I took a look at the parts you mentioned and they were only specified as a "dust cap for a 2.5" bore." For that you can use the 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug # DC250L-DCRP which measures 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18". I have added a link to a video review of this can and plug for you to check out as well.
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  • How to Determine the Correct Replacement Grease Cap for a 2003 Bayliner 212
    The main difference between the grease caps, # RG04-080 and # DC250L-DCRP, is that the RG04-080 is for EZ lube axles and DC250L-DCRP is for standard axles. I have created a short video for you showing where to measure on your hub to determine the correct size grease cap. If you measure and determine that these caps will work for you, then I would recommend using the RG04-080 if you have EZ lube spindles with a grease zerk in the end of the spindle. Keep in mind that you will want your...
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  • How to Pick Out Dust Cover with Rubber Plug for Tow Dolly with EZ Lube Fitting
    What you are looking for is a dust cover for an EZ-Lube spindle hub. We definitely can help but we need to know the diameter of the cap so that we can pick out the correct one. You'll need to remove the one you have and measure the outside diameter of the cap where it fits into the hub and we'll be able to pick you out what you need. If you have a 1.99 inch diameter you'd want the part # RG04-040, if you have a 2.45 inch diameter you'd need part # DC250L-DCRP, or if you have 2.72 inch...
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  • Replacement Trailer Grease/Dust Cap for Big Tex 20 Flatbed Trailer With 3500lb EZ Lube Axles
    The 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug # DC250L-DCRP is designed to fit a 2.441" hub. You can confirm that this will fit by measuring with a Digital Caliper # PTW80157 to be sure this is the size that you need.
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  • Grease Cap and Dust Cap Needed for Trailer Bearings
    We definitely carry those! For those parts, you need 2x of the # RG04-080 and 1 of the # DC250L-DCRP. I went ahead and attached helpful demo videos of these products for your convenience.
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  • Replacement Wheel Center Cap For 5th Wheel Trailer
    You'll need a new center cap. The cap you need will depend on the pilot diameter of the wheel, which is the large hole the center cap fits into. Pull one wheel, and measure the wheel's pilot diameter. A 6 lug wheel like what's shown in your photo (thanks for the photo, by the way) would typically have a 4.25 inch pilot diameter. If that's the case, you'd use # LHCS108-SI60C. If you have a different pilot diameter, let me know and I'd be happy to make a recommendation.
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  • Replacement Rubber Caps For Dexter E-Z Lube Hubs
    The replacement rubber caps for EZ Lube hubs are # RG04-010. These are the lube plugs for 1.18 inch dust cap holes in those EZ Lube Grease Caps. These are the equivalent of the 85-1. If you need a different size dust cap, we only have what comes with the complete grease cap. We have Grease Cap, 1.99" OD EZ Lube Drive in with Plug - Qty 2 # RG04-040, 2-1/2" Lubed Dust Cap and Rubber Plug - 2.45" x 1.52" x 1.18" - Qty 1 # DC250L-DCRP.
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  • Availability Of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors Smaller Than 1.980" In Diameter
    I would be happy to help! The Bearing Buddy you purchased measures 1.980" O.D so the two smaller, but close in size options which are the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 1968 - Chrome Plated (Pair) # BB1968 which measure 1.968", or the # BB1938 which measures 1.938". To confirm which Bearing Buddy is correct for your trailer I recommend measuring your hub bore first. You will need to use digital calipers # PTW80157 and measure your hub in the location shown in the included diagram. If...
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  • How to Pick Out Replacement EZ Lube Grease Cap for Trailer Hub
    You will want to use a dial caliper or micrometer to measure the inner diameter of the hub you have on your trailer to determine what size cap would be needed. Check out the picture I attached that shows this measurement being taken on a hub. I attached a link to all the grease caps we offer, once you know what size you need check out the link I attached to see all the sizes we offer. If the dimension you find is 1.986 you'd want # 21-41-1, if you have a dimension of 2.441 you'd want...
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  • How to Pick Out Grease Cap for 2005 Fleetwood-Pioneer RV Trailer Axle
    What you are looking for is a dust cover for an EZ-Lube spindle hub. We definitely can help but we need to know the diameter of the cap so that we can pick out the correct one. You'll need to remove the one you have and measure the outside diameter of the cap where it fits into the hub and we'll be able to pick you out what you need. If you have a 1.99 inch diameter you'd want the part # RG04-040, if you have a 2.45 inch diameter you'd need part # DC250L-DCRP, or if you have 2.72 inch...
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    Image 1 for
  • How to Pick Out Replacement Dust Cap for Trailer Hub
    We definitely can help but we need to know the diameter of the cap so that we can pick out the correct one. You'll need to remove the one you have and measure the outside diameter of the cap where it fits into the hub and we'll be able to pick you out what you need. If you have a 1.99 inch diameter you'd want the part # RG04-040, if you have a 2.45 inch diameter you'd need part # DC250L-DCRP, or if you have 2.72 inch you'd want part # RG04-120. To measure your hub bore you'd need the...
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  • How to Determine the Weight Capacity of a Dexter Axle Based Off the Inner and Outer Bearings
    Though there can be some variations, the # GS-2250DL (10-36) seal would lead me to believe you have a 5,200 pound or 6,000 pound axle. Especially with a 6 on 5 1/2 bolt pattern on the hub. It would not hurt to pull one of said hubs off to verify your bearing numbers to double check, however. If the Inner Bearing reads # 25580 and the Outer Bearing Reads # LM67048, you will have a 5,200 pound axle. To replace the internal parts of the hub, you would need the bearing kit # BK3-300 and EZ...
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  • Bearing and Grease Seal Sizes Needed For etrailer Trailer Axle # e23GR
    The etrailer Trailer Axle Beam # e23GR will use the common bearing sizes for a 6,000lb axle with #42 Spindle. Inner Bearing # 25580 Inner Race # 25520 Outer Bearing # 15123 Outer Race # 15245 Grease Seal # GS-2250DL Grease Cap # DC250L-DCRP This axle would pair well with the Dexter Nev-R-Adjust Electric Trailer Brake Kit # 23-458-459 and the etrailer Easy Grease Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly # AKHD-655-6-EZ-K which come preloaded with the parts I listed above installed and bearings pre-greased...
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  • Recommended Hubs and Spindles for 2500 lb Homemade Trailer
    The first thing to determine is if you want an idler hub or a hub/drum. The weight threshold at which brakes are mandated varies by state, so you might want to check that with your state police or highway patrol. If you decide on an idler hub (no brakes), I'd recommend the # 42655UC1 hub from Dexter Axle. The bearings, races, grease seal, lug bolts and grease cap are included. The hub will have more than enough capacity for your application. This hub would use the # TRU57FR spindle. For...
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  • Galvanized 6 Lug Trailer Hub For a Spindle With 2.125 Grease Seal and 1.75/1.25 Bearing Sizes
    If you are only needing an idler hub we have the DeeMaxx # DE96VR which you will need to combine with the Bearings # 25580, # 15123, Grease Seal # GS-2125DL and either a standard Grease Cap # F001520 or EZ Lube Cap # DC250L-DCRP. For a hub/drum assembly we have either the EZ Lube Hub/Drum # AKHD-655-6-G-EZ-K or Standard Hub/Drum # AKHD-655-6-G-K. Both of these will require you to switch the grease seal to the Seal # GS-2125DL which fits your spindle.
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  • Recommended Suspension And Brake Upgrade For 2019 Forest River Sabre 32DPT W/ Tandem 5200lb axles
    I have another suggestion, but I don't think changing the axles wheels will have the added benefit you are looking for. Moving from 5200lb axles to 7000lb or 8000lb and heavier duty leaf springs will actually cause a rougher ride due to springs being stiffer than needed for the weight of your 2019 Forest River Sabre 32dpt. There is also not a kit to complete this change, and it will be pretty involved and costly. Going overkill on suspension usually leads to more negatives than positives,...
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