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This proportional brake controller is designed to keep towing simple. Includes an LED braking indicator, a slide-bar manual override, and a knob to adjust braking power. Mounts easily within a 90-degree vertical range.
Features:
Specs:
Once the brake controller is installed, you can use the knob on the right side of the unit to adjust the gain (also known as output). Gain lets you set the maximum amount of power that will be applied to your trailer's brakes. You want to set it as high as you can without locking up the brakes. Typically, this setting is only readjusted when you experience changing road conditions or if you switch over from a heavy, loaded trailer to a much lighter, empty trailer, or vice versa.
You can fine-tune the gain by adjusting the sensitivity of the internal sensor using the knob on the left side. This controls the aggressiveness of your trailer's braking, meaning how quickly the brakes reach the maximum braking level. You can adjust this when you're towing heavy loads and you need more umph to bring your trailer to a stop. Your tow vehicle doesn't need that much power to brake in time, but your heavy trailer does. A high sensitivity level will get the braking power to your trailer brakes faster and with more intensity so that it doesn't push your tow vehicle forward.
LED Indicator
Keeping with its simple design, the Voyager will not overwhelm you with information. An LED indicator on the top of the unit lights up green to show that your trailer is securely connected to your tow vehicle. The LED indicator will change to red when the brakes on your trailer are activated.
During installation and setup, this light is also used to ensure that the Voyager will be able to function correctly. Proper leveling of the internal sensor is crucial to the operation of this brake controller. When the sensor is level, the LED will change to a shade of orange.
The Voyager is designed to be mounted in your cab at a vertical angle that is between -20 degrees and 70 degrees. The brake controller needs to be horizontally level and parallel to the direction of travel in order to function properly.
To connect the Voyager, just plug the included harness into your vehicle. The other end plugs into the controller - no hardwiring required.
Once the controller is mounted and connected, you must level the internal sensor. First, set the overall power to the maximum using the knob on the side of the controller. Then, while pressing the tow vehicle's brake pedal, adjust the level knob on the other side of the brake controller (this is the same knob that is used to fine-tune the power output) until the LED monitor is a shade of orange.
Note: If you don't already have a 7-way plug at the back of your vehicle, take a look at our exclusive 7- and 4-way brake controller installation kit (ETBC7 - sold separately).
The Tekonsha Voyager brake controller comes equipped with proportional braking to give you the best towing experience. Proportional braking means that your trailer brakes mimic your tow vehicle's brakes. If you slam on the brakes in your vehicle, your trailer brakes will activate with the same intensity; if you brake lightly, your trailer brakes lightly too. The trailer's braking is in proportion to your vehicle's braking. This saves wear and tear on the tires and the brakes on both your vehicle and trailer.
The Voyager uses a pendulum system to sense how your vehicle is braking so it can send the right amount of braking power to your trailer. It measures the inertia of your tow vehicle and activates the trailer's brakes to slow at the same rate. The result is uniform braking across your towing setup. No push-pull action - just smooth, proportional braking every time.
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Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today on this 2004 Ford Explorer we're going to install part number ETBC7 We're going to use this to install Brake Controller part number 90885 from Tekonsha, the Prodigy P2 Brake Control. So we'll start off our install by installing a mounting bracket onto the hitch. Now this bracket does not come with the kit and we'll be using part number 18140. Now the bracket is a little on the short side, so we have to make it a little bit longer. What we're going to do is just add a couple more holes to the end of the bracket.
We use a 7 pole bracket to locate our holes. Then we'll go ahead and drill it out and then attach it to our 7-pole bracket. Then we'll attach it to our hitch. Before we install our 7-pole connector we'll go ahead and take a few moments to connect our gray wire that comes with the kit up to our 7 pole connector. What we'll do is wind these wires up in electric tape and leave out the leads that we'll need later, such as the 4-pole, the brake wire, which is blue and our black wire which is for our 12 volt power supply.
Then we'll wrap up our purple and white wire. The white wire will be attached to the frame for ground while the purple wire is for reverse lights if it is ever needed. Onto our black and blue wires. We'll install the gray duplex cable, which has a black and white wire. We'll peel away the gray sheet to reveal the wires and strip them back to make our connections.
We'll go black to black and then white to blue. We'll put some tape around those connectors, as well. Next we'll install the loom around the wires like this and then tape it up. With our 7-pole connector installed onto the bracket we'll turn attention to the 4-pole. Now we'll have to remove the original 4-pole from its original bracket right behind the hitch and we'll go ahead and make our connection.
To make the 4-poles go together we're going to cut the sheath off the adapter side and then we can plug into the factory 4-pole harness. Apply a little bit of electric grease on the inside to protect the connections and make it a permanent connection after that. With our 4-pole connected up we'll go ahead and run our white wire with a ring terminal tot he body for ground. We'll be using a number 14 self-tapping screw to accomplish this. Then we'll go ahead and take our gray cable and run it up to the front of the vehicle. We'll make sure we'll stay away from anything that's moving, like the suspension, or anything hot, like the exhaust. We'll go ahead and route this cable up through the engine compartment up to the battery. At this point we'll go ahead and install the circuit breaker. With the cable ran up to the battery we'll go ahead and run it past a little bit, maybe about 3 to 4 foot and then cut off the excess. Our black wire in its sheath is going to be connected to the circuit breaker and then ran to the positive post of the battery. When we run our black wire through the circuit breaker we'll run it from the end going out from the 7-pole, we'll run it up to the silver post. Then the copper post will go to our positive power supply. In this case we're going to actually tap off the power supply going into the power junction box. And the white wire's going to be, actually, ran back underneath the vehicle and up through a grommet to get to the inside. We'll cut the grommet from the inside underneath the dashboard and then use a piece of air tube to stick through it to the outside towards the engine compartment. We'll go back outside and pull the air tube up and connect it through our white wire with some electric tape, then pull it back into the vehicle from the inside. Next we'll route a piece of air tube over to the passenger side glove compartment, which we've lowered out of the way to get to our tow package. We'll go ahead and plug in our wiring harness to the port, which is part number 3035-P. Then we'll attach the other end to our air tube and pull it back over to the driver's side. When we have the cable ran to the driver's side we go ahead and start mounting the brake controller. When we install a bracket we'll make sure that it makes the brake controller sit in a straight line with the vehicle. We use two screws attached to the dash and then we'll go ahead and plug into the back of the brake control. Now since the tow package isn't complete, which means that the blue wire on the port isn't ran all the way out back and that's ran I ran a white wire to the inside, we'll cut the blue wire--that will be the output from the brake controller--and we'll splice that into our white wire right behind the brake controller. Then we'll go ahead and run two other screws into the side of the brake controller to hold it in place. And after a quick check with our trailer to verify the connectivity, now finish it before I install ETBC7 on our 2004 Ford Explorer.
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