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Installation KitItem # ETBC7
Retail:$86.43
Our Price: $80.60
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If your vehicle already has a 4-way flat, this kit includes everything you need to install an electric trailer brake controller and 7-way connector. If there's not an existing 4-way flat on your vehicle, you can purchase one separately.
Features:
Note:
Installation Details 
Video of Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller - 7-Way RV and 4-Way Flat - 10 Gauge Wires
Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Today, we're going to be taking a look at part number ETBC7. This is a Universal Installation Kit for a trailer brake controller. This kit includes your wiring and accessories that are required for installation of a trailer brake controller. That would be sold separately and that would be one that mounts in your vehicle. This is designed for use on a vehicle with an existing four-way flat trailer connector. You can see right here, this is going to be your plug that's going to plug into the existing connection point.
Now, if your vehicle does not have a four-pole flat trailer connector installed, the etrailer.com Application Guide can be used to find the easy-to-install connector that would be made specifically for your vehicle. What I want to do with this video is just go over everything that comes with part number ETBC7. You're going to get 25-foot-long, 10-gauge duplex wire. It's going to be wrapped in an abrasion-resistant cover. All you have to do is connect one wire to the blue wire on your brake controller and then connect one wire to the positive post on the vehicle's battery via the included 40-amp circuit breaker. You can see you're going to get 3 provided circuit breakers.
Now, if you drive a crew cab, extended cab with a long bed, cargo van, or extended-length SUV, 10 foot of extra wire will make the installation much easier. You can purchase that separately with part number ETBCXW. This portion right here is going to be the Pre-Wired 7 and 4-Way Trailer Connector. It's going to mount easily at the rear of the vehicle with the included bracket and the mounting hardware. You can see right here that it has a nice spring-loaded cover that goes over the 7-Way, and then it's got a dust cap that goes over the 4-Way Trailer Connector. Nice plastic construction, very heavy-duty.
Those covers are going to come in handy, especially when it comes to keeping dirt and moisture out of the connection points, which is going to prevent corrosion. Back here, it's all molded in, so none of the connection points are going to be exposed to the elements. Then you got all the exposed wire hanging out of the back of it with the butt connectors and the ring terminal on there, as well as the 4-way connection that's going to plug into the existing connection point on your vehicle. Right here, you're going to see 3 heavy-duty circuit breakers. You're going to get 1 20-amp, 1 30-amp, and 1 40-amp circuit breaker.
3 are provided, but only 2 are going to be used, and you need to refer to your brake controller's instructions to see if it's going to require the 20-amp or 30-amp circuit breaker. This right here is going to be the included circuit tester. This is going to help you find the stoplight switch wire above the brake pedal. It's also going to include everything that you need for your installation as far as the hardware. You're going to get your ring terminals. You're going to get 4 small ring terminals and 3 large ring terminals. You're going to get your 2 quick spliced wiring connectors, 4 butt connectors. You're going to get self-tapping screws, looks like you're going to get 4 small screws and 1 large screw. The 4 small screws are going to be to mount 2 circuit breakers. So even though you see 3 are provided, you're only going to use 2 of those, and each one is going to require 2 screws. That's why the 4 small self-tapping screws are included. You're going to get 1 large one as well. You're going to get 10 zip ties. That's just going to help clean up your install look, so that you can secure your wires underneath your vehicle. You're also going to get a wire loom for a professionally installed appearance, and you're going to get some detailed instructions that etrailer put together for you. It's going to have step-by-step guides that are going to take you through the complete installation, as well as a nice, detailed illustration with the image here that's color-coded, so it's going to be able to easily point out what color wire goes where and where everything needs to be located on your particular vehicle. That's going to do it for our review of part number ETBC7. This is the Universal Installation Kit for a trailer brake controller. .
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (1366 Customer Reviews)
If your vehicle already has a 4-way flat, this kit includes everything you need to install an electric trailer brake controller and 7-way connector. If there's not an existing 4-way flat on your vehicle, you can purchase one separately.by: Leif B01/26/2017
TL;dr: Simple but tedious to install a 7-pin trailer connector and brake controller on a 2014 Jeep Wrangler. All went well, strong kudos to eTrailer, but kit would have been better if the brake stop light wire on the controller harness were about twice as long, or materials to extend it were included. Long Story: I wanted to add a 7-pin and 4-pin trailer connector with wiring harness, and a trailer brake controller, to my Jeep Wrangler. With knowledgeable and considerate help from eTrailer's Shery T, I ordered a wiring harness with 4-pole flat connector (118416), Tekonsha Primus IQ controller (TK90160), and Universal Installation Kit (ETBC7). Once the order arrived (on time and in good condition), I read the instructions a few times and watched some of the videos on eTrailer's site. I'm an experienced DIY'r with metalworking and electrical experience, but have done almost nothing automotive, so I wanted to be sure I knew what I was about to attempt. The instructions were clear and covered all my questions, so I didn't feel the need to call up eTrailer for help. I did have the impression that they would have been happy to assist, had I done so. I decided I didn't want to use the supplied mounting bracket, since I did not want the connector below the bumper where it might catch on an obstacle, or above where it would be in the way when loading and unloading. Instead, I cut a mounting hole in my aftermarket bumper with a 2-1/8" hole saw, filing the edges smooth and giving it a coat of paint to prevent rust, then drilling and tapping four screw holes using the mounting bracket as a template. It turned out as nicely as I could have wanted, and looks like the bumper was designed to hold the connector. Installing the 4-pole flat connector kit was easy. Take off the tail light, unplug the existing connector, plug in the kit harness (only one way for it to fit), attach the ground wire to an existing hole on the body, and run the connector out to the hole in the bumper for later. A little bit of lying down and standing up again to run the wires under the car and through to the ends, and some contortions to reach the grounding site I'd chosen, otherwise nothing at all difficult. Check that the tail lights still work as expected: all is good. Next came the 7-pin connector. Seal the 4-pin flat connectors with dielectric grease, connect them, zip-tie together, and stuff them back through the bumper hole. Join the hot (black) and brake (blue) wires to the duplex cable with butt connectors, and run that through the bumper hole next to the 4-pin wires. Connect the chassis ground wire to the same ground I'd connected the 4-pole harness to. Also, since I wanted working backup lights on the trailer, attach a wire to the reverse light circuit with a splice connector, and connect that to the 7-pin connector's center contact (purple) wire (used a small voltmeter to verify which one was the correct tail light wire). Then bolt the 7-pin connector to the bumper, with some Loc-Tite to keep the bolts in place. Then it was time to run the wiring up to the engine compartment. This took a lot more lying down and standing up, fiddling with placement of the plenum-rated duplex cable as it runs under the car, avoiding pinch points and hot areas. I made liberal use of zip ties to keep it in place, using up the ones that came with the kit and adding a few I had from previous projects (I did ruin a few when I made a mistake and sent the cable to a place I couldn't make work). It took me a little while to figure out where I would pass the wire through the firewall to the dashboard, but once I found the right rubber grommet and convinced myself that it actually led to the area behind the dashboard, it all fell into place. I found a good place on the firewall for the two circuit breakers, and mounted them first. Connecting the wires was easy: cut, strip, crimp. The kit had exactly enough butt connectors, ring terminals, and splices to make the connections, don't lose any. Following the instructions, I hooked up the rest of the wiring to the controller harness, battery, and circuit breakers. The Wrangler engine compartment is pretty cramped, so I had some difficulty working around the hoses and wires, and working under the dashboard was even more cramped. I also picked a spot for the controller low and to the right of the steering wheel where I attached the mounting bracket. The only operation that gave me trouble was figuring out which wire from the brake light switch (by the brake pedal) I was supposed to use, and then splicing to it. It was difficult to maneuver the test probe under the dash, and I had to unwrap some of the tape holding the wire bundle together to even get access to the wires. After a lot of fiddling about, I finally was able to get the test probe to confirm which connection was live only when the brake pedal was depressed. And then, the wire from the controller harness wasn't long enough to reach the wire. I had to use some extra wire, solder, and heat-shrink tubing from previous projects to extend the harness wire to reach the right point. Then I had the frustrating experience of trying to close the vampire splice using only one hand, since the Jeep's footwell is too small to let me get both hands into the area. All in all, I'm quite happy with the result. The connector looks like it belongs, the wires are all hidden in places that shouldn't pinch or cook, and all voltmeter checks pass. I can't wait to try it out! 335495
by: Li Zhang11/09/2017
This is a great product. I think etrailer made it easy for our novice DIY. I basically read the instructions and watched video a few times before I start. The installation is not difficult; it is just a dirty and tiring work. One thing I should mention, is that grounding is very important. I wasted most of my time for not properly grounding. The first place you encounter the issue of grounding will be when you test the break wire in the box under the dash to the left side of the steering column. Using the tester, you must find a bare metal part for grounding, otherwise the other end of the tester would lit up properly. This is not mentioned or emphasized in the video or written instructions. Painted surface won't do since it insulates the metal. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out why the break wire won't lit up, calling etrailer customer service representatives, nobody really told me this. I basically figured out by myself. Hopefully you won't need to waste time on this. The second place you will encounter grounding is in the front engine box near the battery where you must drill into the frame to attach the ground wire, like instructed by etrailer. But I didn't like to drill "unnecessary" holes into my frame, I just used a ziptie to attach the ground wire to the frame, so grounding wasn't good. I eventually figure out I must drill into the frame to get to the bare metal for grounding. The 3rd place is in the back, there is another ground wire you must drill into the frame to reach bare metal. I choose to drill into the tire tub, since it won't affect the structure integrity of the frame rails. Either way it will work as long as you drill into the bare metal. The wires supplied by etrailer is long enough for this installation. 450602
by: matt02/24/2014
product was excellent and COMPLETE. everything you need with very DETAILED directions. i also ordered the prodigy P2 to complete my install. both were excellent and very recommended. only modification was on the actual plastic cover on bumper, i cut away minimal pieces with razor knife for perfect fit. you can look at all the pics to check out install. I took advantage of the reverse light wire and put LED light bar on back of trailer. i made one email to e trailer for exact numbers for my make and model. the response was pretty impressive. Full detail with pictures and product numbers all set up so all i had to do was press order and pay for it. This is how american companies are supposed to be ran......I LOVE IT!!!! 117533
Your products are awesome. Ive had zero issues with it and 5 of my friends purchased and installed the same set up in there trucks. Thanks again for the great products and excellent support.
matt - 03/05/2015by: Penguin09/12/2013
Overall the kit is a nice package and it was great having an installation video for my vehicle which made installation much simpler than trying to figure it out with an instruction sheet. The negative issue I had with this kit was the quality of the small self tapping screws and the bolts and nuts that mount the 7-Way Trailer Connector to the hitch. I had 2 of the self tapping screws' heads snap off while attempting to mount them to the inside of the engine compartment. The two nuts used for the bolts to attach the 7-Way Trailer Connector were bad - one wouldn't screw onto the bolt and one stripped as I was tightening it. The installation videos are awesome because it is so much easier to watch the instructions rather than read them. There were a couple of issues with the installation video for the 2008 Hyundai Entourage. The first issue was the narration in regards to the installation of the circuit breakers. The narrator stated that the 20 Amp Circuit Breaker was installed on the rear firewall. He then stated to run the power wire from the 7-Way Connector to the breaker mounted on the rear firewall, which would have been the 20 Amp breaker. The 40 Amp circuit breaker is the correct circuit breaker used to connect to the power wire to the 7-Way Connector. I would recommend anyone watching the videos to just double check with the installation instructions to verify that you install the kit correctly. The other issue I had with the video was what I believed to be a bit misleading. The installation video showed the installation of a rubber grommet in the hole that is drilled out near the brake pedal. Maybe it is just me, but I had watched this video a couple of times before I ordered the ETBC7 kit and assumed that the rubber grommet would have been included in the kit, but it is not. It would have been nice if the video made a statement about purchasing the rubber grommet separately. Unfortunately, I had to stop in the middle of installing this kit to run to the auto store to purchase a rubber grommet and then to the hardware store to purchase stronger bolts, nuts, and self tapping screws. Not a huge deal, but it was an inconvenience. I did appreciate the super fast shipping and the good prices that etrailer.com has to offer. The free shipping is really nice, too. Etrailer.com, I hope that you don't think I am slamming your company, because I am not. I just wanted to give a fair and honest review for my purchase and experience with your product. 99715
by: Dan H03/25/2014
Re: Install on a 2000 Chevy K3500 LS Full size Pickup 4x4 This Kit and instructions are very handy and included just about everything you will need. You may need an additional 25' or so of 12g wire, per directions to run Brake Controller + Power and - Ground to battery. This info is specific to the above vehicle. Trying to even see or much less reach the brake pedal switch or wiring, and work on it, even with removing all dash panels is a no go. Per help I received from etrailer support, there is a small white wire going up the steering column in a large bundle of wiring. What I found: The Left side of bundle has the smaller gauge wire that is only hot when brake pedal is depressed. (There are 2 larger gauge white wires on right side of bundle, not them) Here's what I did: remove plastic panel below steering wheel, 4 screws at bottom edge and spring clips across middle upper part, pull out slowly and gently. Remove emergency brake handle by pushing in on plastic clips on either side. Then turn clip on cable retainer so cable can go out thru it. Remove heater hose to vent of panel by twisting, pulling down gently. Remove metal panel under center of steering wheel, 2 screws, and push heater tube out of that. Possibly remove large metal panel surrounding that - 4 screws, easy. Use included test probe to verify small white wire is cold until brake depressed. Clip ground wire to flange of metal support tube, gently push test probe tip into wire. Gently cut and peel back rubber boot and possibly a tape wrap to get good access to wire. Attach splice wire that will go to Red wire on Brake Controller. Tape splice and re wrap up the wires and boot. Put back together. 122183
Brake controller is performing very well, happy with product.
Dan H - 03/25/2015by: Dave P.09/28/2015
I purchased this knowing it was universal, and that it was low end in price. Just to save you some grief, go out and buy some longer/stronger zip ties, some beefier self-tapping screws, and some extra wire. If you want a stout holder for the plug, this one seems pretty flimsy, but when everything is together, it stiffens up. One's in the store are thicker and stronger...that's up to you. The instruction are pretty clear. It is physically challenging to move around under the vehicle, so you may want to use a pit or lift to gain easier access. The self tapping screws do not automatically break. They break when you go to tighten them up snug. You may get by with them if you go really slow. I just prefer to use stronger ones. When using the tester, make sure to connect the clip to something metallic to get a reading. There is not enough wire to actually connect a brake controller. Go get some wire. I wound up having to use extra for the ground wire. Not much...about 6 feet or so. There are just enough connectors and screws so if you don't want to get stopped mid project, have some extras on hand. Overall, I am pleased with the unit, and for the price I am pleased. If I had paid more, I would have expected more, but i have to admit, those doggone screws really bothered me. See the pics of the install. The best part of the transaction was the customer service. They were patient and helpful...definitely the people you want to talk to if you are just getting into this like me. 228167
by: Andrew06/08/2018
Kit is easy to install and bolted on easily to my 2016 Toyota Highlander. My Highlander has the 4 Pin factory tow package so this was converting that to 7 pin. I modified the mounting bracket for the plug by drilling out the holes slightly so i could hit the factory mount point without modification. Rather than run outside the vehicle ziping to the frame I opted to route via the trunk to the brake controller in the center console so it is out of sight when not towing. the supplied 10 Gauge wire was not long enough with how I had to route the power to the brake controller. I refused to drill a new hole in the firewall/floorboard so i routed along with the factory wiring harness over to the passenger side into the vehicle and under the carpet. I ended up having to purchase additional wire from the big box store to have enough to complete the install. The way I did it was around a 6 hour install to get interior torn out and everything wired in pretty. No matter how you plan to do the wiring, plan for a bit of time. 519119
by: Johnnie R.01/27/2017
I realy do not know where to start. 1) products and service were prompt and very curtious, but there was a major problem. 2005 tundra trailor hitch, break controller and wire harness. I first ordered and installed a trailor hitch on my truck. I needed the hitch for a tundra that had the drop down bumper with trailor ball holes drilled. Everything went as advertised. However it was necessary to use clips to pull the hitch to the frame to drill the aditional holes. 2. Here is the however. Before ordering a wire harness and controller I read the instructions on your web sight to determen if I had a tow package. I looked for the white plug behind and above and on the left side of the instrument panel to determine if I had a tow package. No white plug could be found. In all of my conversations with sells and letters to techneshions I said I had a 4 pin plug but no 7 pin plug. I had the step bumper with trailor ball mount holes but no white plug. Every one determined that with no white plug I did not have a tow package imstalled. I order a controller and the wire harness. I mounted the seven / four pin harness and the wireing from the rear of the truck to the engine compartment and mounted the fuses. The next day I removed the instrument panel lower trim and the air duct and begin to look for the wiring harness and the grommet in the left side of the firewall to rout the wireing into the cab. I looked and felt around the wire bundles and felt the white plug taped with black electric tape on the outside of the wire bundle. It was impossible to see the white plug even with the trim panel and air duct removed and black tape installed over it. After looking at other web sights I learned that if I had taken the VIN number to the parts department of the Toyota dealer I ould have learned that I had a tow package. If I had known that I had the tow package I would have ordered the upgraded brake controller with the less expensive wire harness. Johnnie Reaves 338977
by: Ryan H.08/06/2014
Thanks eTrailer.com! My wire kit arrived with all of the necessary parts very quickly! Using your install video helped to make my install a breeze, Thank You for the install videos! The video was easy to understand and I was able to buildup on it a little. I tried to wrap the wires at the engine from the frame to the battery with protective sleeve for a little added protection. Also, I would like to recommend adding an additional ring terminal with the kit... I ended up clamping on onto the ground for the wire harness of the brake controller only to realize the cable was too short. I ended up needing 1 extra but a trip to the part store did the job! Thanks again! I look forward to seeing how my weight distributing hitch is going to work now :) Ryan Denver, CO 144786
by: Monty06/04/2018
Installed the ETBC7 kit on my 2000 Chevy Express Van. Good instructions came with the kit, and schematics. In my van, I actually found 3 factory wires (BLUE, WHITE & ORANGE) in the frame near the hitch that were installed for a 7 wire system. They ran through the frame to the right side of the engine compartment, where I was able to untape them and wired the orange wire into the 40 amp breaker and I extended the BLUE wire into the cabin, below the dash. Therefore I didn't even use the large roll of duplex cable that was in the kit. I ended up cutting off the flanges on the relays and wrapped studs in rubber tape then covered in Heatshrink. I then tiewrapped that to the wiring near the engine compartment fuse box. See pics. I mounted the receptacle bracket to my bumper. Quality connector with potted wiring in the back. I soldered all connections, then covered in heatshrink, and finally wrapped that with rubber tape. The ring terminals I used on the relays I crimped, then filled the top part of the crimp with solder. So if you have the vehicle wiring installed, you might save a little by ordering the receptacle adapter without the duplex wire included. 517513
by: Garry07/08/2018
Bought towing adaptors/wiring parts for a 2001 Dodge Durango (it came from the factory without a tow package) and a 2014 Honda Pilot (came from the factory with a receiver, and only half of the tow wiring harness). I knew a year ago I needed to get these two vehicles ready for a move we’ll be making from TN to SC using a trailer with electric brakes (by August of this year). You have the list of items I purchased. I finally got around to starting the projects. Just finished the 2014 Honda Pilot yesterday. The installation on the Pilot went somewhat well. I made one mistake (human error on my part) I put the 30 amp fuse from the T-one vehicle wiring harness #118265 in the wrong fuse box under the hood. Also, after installing the plug in wiring adapter for the electric brake controller #3070-P and the Prodigy P2, I discovered I had no power running to the brake controller. I didn’t know why. I happened by chance while reviewing the hundreds of customer feedback comments that I needed an additional 20 amp fuse under the hood in one of the fuse boxes in slot number 14, for e-trailer. It seems to work ok now for the Honda Pilot (going to hook up the trailer today for a trial run). I’ll be installing the other components on the 2001 Dodge Durango this week. E-Trailer dosn’t have a “How To” video for the 2001 Dodge Durango Sport without a towing package. Not looking forward to this install at all. A few years back, I did install a receiver and a 4-pin adapter wiring kit to my rear brake lights on this vehicle. I hope with the the Universal Kit #ETBC7 and the additional Prodigy P2 #90885 I bought from you guys I can get the Durango ready to tow the same electric brake trailer. I did find “Trailer Brake Controller Installation-2001 Dodge Ram-etrailer.com” that I hope will make this installation go ok. Will there be any additional fuses or other things that I will need for this vehicle? Thanks, Garry 539119
You should not need any fuses for the 4 way wiring in the Dodge Durango. You will need the circuit breakers that come with the # ETBC7
Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller - 7-Way RV and 4-Way Flat - 10 Gauge Wires
$80.60 kit. I have attached a video for the installation of the P2 and the # ETBC7
Universal Installation Kit for Trailer Brake Controller - 7-Way RV and 4-Way Flat - 10 Gauge Wires
$80.60 kit on a 2007 Dodge Durango, it is the same installation as the 2002.
Heather A - 07/10/2018by: Tod09/10/2014
Worked great, easy install. I have the factory tow package w/ my 2012 JK Wrangler but it comes with a four way plug. My camping trailer doesn't exceed the 3500 lb towing capacity but it does have the 7 way plug plus I wanted to run trailer brakes. This kit has it all and the video on etrailer is the way to go. I took my laptop to the garage with me and went step by step with the video. Wiring was installed in 30 minutes and another 15 for the trailer brake controller. Everything works perfect. Here are the only two pointers I have. You might want to watch the intall video first. I was knee deep into install and the video instructions said "Now is when we run the wire from the battery back to under the dash for the brake controller, here is the wire we have left and it's not long enough, you need to order part # ........" which is extra wire. That would have been nice to know before starting. They did they same thing with a nut to ground the ground wire to the neg side of the battery. He got to that part and it said "Now is when we ground to the battery using the factory screw, you will need part # ......." which is a 2 cent nut. Why they included everything needed and didn't throw in a 1/4 nut that coust pennies I don't know but of course I was almost done and didn't have an extra nut. Everything worked out because the extra wire I had was long enough to reach under the dash and I grounded using the factory post and nut on the battery. Just beware they say to order certain parts after you have started and say you will need extra zip ties, etc... Watch the install vid first to make sure you have everything extra. Not complaining. Once again works perfect and easy easy install using the video. Don't try it with the paper intructions. I bought the Tekonsha 90195 P3 Electronic Brake Control to go along with this kit. 150532
by: Karlo J09/15/2015
I bought this kit in conjunction with a P3 controller to put on my 2015 Toyota FJ, and I was really impressed with the kit ( I have the 4-wire trailer connector, and with a controller this upgrades to the 7-wire (with a 4 wire connector on the side). Pros: - Has everything you need, and the parts are not flimsy. Has enough screws, eyelets, cable, ties, etc. - even has a power tester (good for finding the cold side of the break light switch) - Wire is longer than you need and as thick as you will ever need Cons (and I am being very picky, very small discrepancies); - The bracket for the plug (that you mount under the bumper) is a little flimsy and bends too easy. I reinforced it. It is exactly the same one they sell at the auto parts store, not like there is any alternative. - The over-current breakers that come with the kit you are supposed to mount somewhere in in the engine compartment, on the firewall or wherever is convenient. I didn't like that, so I took a piece of heavy-gauge sheet metal (left over from a metal building kit), cut a "L" piece and mounted the breakers to that and found a screw to attach my "L" bracket to. It would be nice if they included something like that in the kit. The instructions were good, you will need some basic tools and plan on a day to install but you will save a lot of money over taking your car/truck down to the RV dealer. (Pay attention if you get a proportional controller some must be installed level, or can't be tilted side to side--might want to check out where you are going to put it before you buy the controller; there wasn't a lot of room/options in my FJ). 225644
by: Glenn03/24/2011
The brake was mounted as shown in my pictures. Even though my 2008 Acadia did not have the towing package, the connector is there for the brake and by using a female push to connect crimp on I was able to use the connector to get my brake signal. See the picture of the connector. The battery in my Acadia is not under the hood but behind the passenger seat in the floor and therefore is a bit more of a challenge to run the power wires to. I have attached a picture of the battery bay and how I mounted the circuit breakers. I'm not sure how it is going to be to get this battery out when the time comes but I will leave that for another day. The only negative thing I would have to say about this is that there wasn't enough of the 10 gauge wire for my install. I was about 2 feet short and had to grab some from my work. 10261
by: Mark03/10/2018
I used the online install video and it was very helpful for a 2010 Highlander. I would suggest a few changes on the video. - when drilling through the firewall, advise the consumer to use a grommet. - The only confusion I had was the color of the 10 ga wires to the connection of the wires for the controller, they do not match (blue vs white). - I live in an area that uses salt in the winter. I did not install the wire (10ga) on the outside of the vehicle as instructed nor did I install the connector permanently on the outside of the vehicle. I ran the 10 ga wire on the inside of the vehicle due to the corrosion that does happen. I do not use the trailer much (maybe 5% of my total miles per year or 1250 miles), but when I want it I need it. If I install the connector and wires on the outside I would be replacing them more than I would be using them. When not in use I store them inside the vehicle. - I created a quick attachment mount for the connector. 483141
by: Rob Rod03/28/2014
I previously purchased and installed the model 75517 Draw-Tite Max-Frame Trailer Hitch Receiver - Custom Fit - Class III - 2" AND the model 118421 T-One Wiring Harness with 4-Pole Flat Trailer Connector and installed them on my 2007 Dodge Nitro. I then decided that since I had went this far with towing capabilities I might as well install a Trailer Brake Controler which required a 7-Pole Trailer Connector. This ETBC7 kit seemed like the right way to go, so that's what I did and it worked out perfect. 122721
by: Terry B.06/27/2017
Kit was sufficient to completely wire my 66 F100 for Electric brakes. I wrapped all wires under the hood with black tape and used original harness clips below the hood to cowl seal for a " factory harness" look. Truck is almost all original and a bit rusty but it's mine.. I wired an etrailer solenoid in line to trailer power, it is energized by the ignition and I added an led toggle switch under the dash to interrupt that circuit of needed. All the parts arrived in great condition and on time. 399496
by: Rick B03/14/2015
The etrailer video I watched of this product showed the reverse light wire left disconnected. I connected mine. I also bought some extra convoluted tubing for under the hood, and some expandable braid sleeving for under the dash, and added a connector near the kick panel for connecting to the brake controller. To mount the brake controller, I removed the storage tray next to the ignition switch. Shimming the brake controller bracket allows it to fit nicely there (2007 Tacoma). Under the hood, I used the 20 amp breaker. The 20 amp breaker is for 1 and 2 axle brakes, and the 30 amp is for 3 and 4 axle brakes. I wanted to find some rubber insulator boots for the breaker terminals since theses are hot all the time, but I had to use electrical tape and shrink sleeving. Level of difficulty was moderate. I was very pleased with the results. 178290
by: James D10/06/2014
Kit arrived on time and just in time for the weekend. Unfortunately giving me some work to do. I usually don't work on my cars, but felt this one was fairly simple. I already had a 4 pin setup on my FJ Cruiser and this kit was recommended by Etrailer. Installation took a few hours (Including brake controller, Tekonsha P2). I did not hurry, helped the wife with some things, triple checked my work the whole way through and had a few cold ones to battle the SoCal heat. In the end, everything worked as expected. I saved $450.00 by doing it myself and not having Ca**ingw*rld do it for me. A few things about the FJ Cruiser 2014 model with tow package (4 pin connector for lights) OEM Hitch And indeed the cold side of the brake pedal switch was Green/Yellow. The tester that came with the package helped me find this quickly. Don't go by what I wrote, satisfy yourself by verifying it, it was very simple to do. My only concern through the whole process was routing the cable from the back up into the engine compartment. Just use logic as you are routing it and also make sure to properly secure the cable so that it does not become dislodge. Mr. Zip Tie came in handy and I bought some more in addition to what came with the package as I figure if one zip tie is good, 20 more zip ties must be great. Overall I was very pleased, saved $450.00, learned something new and have a 7 pin/4 pin connector for my travel trailer 154839
by: Chris G08/12/2017
Everything arrived as shown and the install video was great, very helpful. I decided to run the cable through the cabin rather than expose it to the elements, even though the cable is well protected, just a personal preference. Only had to remove a couple of panels, now it's a nice clean install. Made a bracket so the connector would bolt up to the factory hitch I had previously installed. Attached some pics of the process. Happy customer! 419271
by: Dan B.08/16/2012
First of all, eTrailer.com is tops with customer service. I mistakenly order a 1-1/4" tube cover and the good folk at etrailer caught the discrepancy and called my to double check that I was ordering what I wanted or needed. My order shipped promptly and everything I ordered was in the package when it arrived at my door. The ETBC7 Bake Controller 7 and 4 way wiring kit, as advertised, included everything- well almost everything - I needed to install a 7 way plug while also providing a 4 way plug so that we can tow our new travel trailer with electric brakes. I say almost because I needed to round up a few extra items to complete the project. These included an extra 3/8" eye connector. The kit includes two but the electric brake controller I chose made it clear in their installation instructions that it should be grounded directly to the battery and not the body of the car. I also needed some longer zip ties than those provided. I also needed to pick up a rubber grommet for the hole I had to drill in my firewall. But, I can't imagine that each vehicle will have unique requirements beyond what this install kit provides, so I can highly recommend this kit to anyone who needs to install a brake controller. The only thing I was disappointed with was that the plug receptacle was made out of plastic. Perhaps this is best as it dose reduce weight ( a bit) and no corrosion is suppose. 51995
by: David06/09/2014
This kit, when coupled with the great instruction video provided by trailer, was about perfect. Every part was provided, quality was good, delivery excellent. It took me more than 8 hours to install the brake controller on my Subaru but I am a slow worker. It is hard to route everything. My car and trailer are in the driveway waiting for me to test the system out. Note: if you are using a subaru OEM hitch, the No-Drill Mount Bracket, Long - 18136 is not useful. Be sure to buy 30 feet 12 gauge red wire. Lots of tape, extra wire loom, extra zip ties, dielectric grease, loom clamps with self threading screws. 134787
We have just returned from a month long journey in our small trailer. The brake controller and wiring harness system works flawlessly. Your instructional support and customer service and follow up are truly extraordinary. I have ordered from you a number of times now and never been disappointed.Thank you
David - 06/09/2015by: okie dokie05/17/2015
I didn't like the way this plug was designed. Plug one end to your 4 way switch, ground one and run the rest under your car to your battery. No way. Glad they didn't suggest a duck-tape. I cut all the ends from wires and used soldering iron, heat shrink, proper size wires and electrical tape to make everything flawless and strong. Took my seats out and ran the wires from back to front under carpet with existing vehicle wires. I double checked all my wires and found out that inclosed instructions are very confusing. Looking at the picture of the 7 way plug, wire colors match but locations do not. Do not freak out. If you followed colors it is all wired correctly but it should be noted that picture is for reference only. Going clockwise (instruction picture) 12V, running lights, left turn,ground,brake output and right turn. Real plug is: 12V, right turn, brake output, ground, left turn and running lights. Remember it is all wired correctly and it is just wrong in the picture. Center for reverse is the same. For regular size truck you might also need to purchase longer cable than the one provided, just so you could follow contours of your truck. Plastic grommets for firewall and back of the truck are not provided neither. If I would to do this again, I would purchase all the needed parts separately and with the extra saved cash I would buy needed parts and wires. 193897
by: StephenH11/24/2015
All parts needed are included (with the exception of a no-drill mounting bracket) for connecting a 7-blade trailer connector to a system that has a 4-pin connector. Installation is not easy. It involves getting up under the vehicle to run the wire from back to front. Routing to keep away from moving and hot parts can be tricky. On a 2016 Ford Escape SE, I was able to run the wire under a heat shield part way and through a subframe part way. The hardest part was figuring out how to run the wires through the firewall. In the 2016 Escape, there is an unused plug high on the firewall to the left of the brake pedal. I managed to punch a hole just big enough to run the necessary wires. While it would have been better if Ford had provided a connector for the brake controller, this kit works. Crimping connectors is the hardest part, especially up under the dash. Also, instead of using the large self-tapping screw to fasten the ground wire at the rear of the vehicle, I was able to use an existing bolt, adding a suitable nut to fasten it directly to the frame. My testing indicates that this will work. Here are pictures of part of the wiring and the breakers 232499
by: Chris S02/15/2011
Somewhat difficult to install this product without vehicle-specific instructions. I installed this on a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe and had a difficult time finding an opening in the firewall to route the cables/wires. This problem could have been mitigated with a few helpful suggestions up front. Also, mounting the breakers is difficult due to a lack of room in the engine compartment. I did resolve all of these problems, but it took the better part of 7 hours. Regardless of the problems, all of the parts were of high quality and the final installation looks good. 7196
by: Scott M.03/15/2011
Installed this on a 2003 Nissan Pathfinder SE, with a factory receiver and 4 pin connector already in place. I've never done something like this before, so it took me a while - the better part of a day to be exact. The Pathy's factory 4 pin is on the driver's side, but the battery in the engine compartment is on the passenger side, in the front of the engine bay... the duplex cable supplied was long enough to make the initial brake connection inside the cab, and to the battery, but I did not have enough wire left to run the power lead from the battery to the brake controller. Also, because this was my first time doing this kind of install, I messed up a few of the connectors - the kit only has enough to make all the connections once - don't mess up, or you'll be short. I have to say though that everything supplied seemed of very high quality - I especially liked the 10 ga. duplex wire and the combo 4/7 pin box; very nice. I watched the video's of several different installs and I have to say they were super for confidence building - it really was pretty easy in hindsight, just very futzy-putzy for a 1st time installer. Can't wait now to pick up our new tent trailer next month! Overall, I'm very satisfied with this purchase - just wish I didn't have to make a 'parts run' in the middle of the install. 9415
by: Terry C06/20/2017
A year ago I bought this kit to install on my 2016 Dodge Grand Caravan so I can install an electric brake controller to pull my camper trailer. The quality of the product is excellent and the installation video provided helped me to install the kit with no problems. I do have an electrical background but I believe any one who can use a wire stripper can install this kit. It took me all together from start to finish about 1.5 hrs with the help of my son. The hardest part is getting under the vehicle because I do not have the benefit of a vehicle lift. I used two wheel ramps one on the back wheel and one on the front both driver side wheels to lift the drive side of the vehicle to make it easier to run the wires from the back of the vehicle to the front. The main reason I bought this kit from Etrailer is because they put together a complete package of the parts I needed to get the job done and also provided a VIDEO showing how to do it, that is Brilliant. I have save about $200 dollars by installing this my self, the dealer I bought the trailer from wanted $200 + HST and I would have to spend the whole day just to get it done. I highly recommend this product and Etrailer.com, the price is just right and the experience has been great dealing with them. Thank you Etrailer. 396564
by: Sebastien L04/27/2013
Great product. Tips for Mazda 5 Owners. I own a 2008. The toughest part of the install was tapping the brake wire. Finding a way through the firewall was a challenge as well. Here are my recommendations. Brake Wire: You have a quick splice in the connector in the kit that is intended to splice the wire from the brake switch. The catch, unless you are a tiny person, this is a very hard place to get into as its tucked in above the brake pedal. The easy way, remove the door sill pannel (held in with clips) and then the trim pannel on the left of the footwell (held with a gromet). Once off you'll see a wire harness with a bunch of wires coming out. You want to splice the Yellow/Green wire. Lastly the quick splice connector in the kit is the incorrect gauge for these wires. So you either want to pre-strip the wire or find a suitable gauge one. Cable routing: You could go under the vehicle or event easier, remove the frond and back doorsills (clipped in) and you find a very easy to route trough cable through. Engine bay access: Looking in the engine compartment, bellow and to the left of the steering pump, you'll find a white X shaped plug. Twist and remove and this will give you an access right next to you gas peddle. Once I figured out all these things the install went like a charm. 78097
by: Brandon P.05/27/2013
I ordered this wiring harness to install in my 2001 Toyota Tundra to go along with Prodigy P2 brake controller. I'm absolutely satisfied with the harness and how easy it made it to wire my truck so I could tow my new trailer. The kit comes with everything needed to do a professional job, and without too much effort. One thing I wish the kit came with was the rubber grommet used to protect the wires once you drill through the fire wall and a small tube of Di-electric grease. I had to run to the hardware store to purchase those items, but other than that I think I made a great purchase. The install was pretty straight forward, as I referenced the brake controller installation video several times. Without the video, it may have taken longer. I think it took me around 4 hours to install. And that's being very methodical in running the wires from the rear bumper to the engine compartment. Great job on the video guys. Without this kit I would have taken my truck in and paid someone else to do the install, so etrailer saved me about $70 in installation costs. If you're in need of a 7 pole RV harness to install a brake controller and only have a 4 pole flat on your rig, and feel comfortable completing the install yourself, this kit will do the job. Thanks etrailer. 82058
by: Al A07/02/2015
First, the staff experts helped me determine if my 2015 can had a brake controller. The Ford Dealer said it did, you said it did not. IT DID NOT and I confirmed that with the factory. Second, your staff experts called your supplier to determine which 7 wire kit to use - my car is a new model so my vehicle was not listed in the fitment section. Last, but not least, Kat helped with a few other questions and took my order, then rewrote my order when I called back to add something I thought that I needed, then rewrote my order when I called back to say I didn't need the added item. Then, in spite of all my attempts to confuse and screw up my order, I got my order IN TWO DAYS ! 208873
still very happy with my equipment, thanks to the great customer service when I placed my order.
Al A - 07/27/2016by: Edward01/03/2011
Brake controller installation It took longer that it should have to connect the controller, but I was being very careful, I would check and then double check to make sure everything was alright. I wanted to do a nice clean job so I took my time. The hardest part was making sure I had the right wire connected for the brake signal to the controller, but even that was not difficult to do. I took some pictures of when I started a task and the end result. 4921
by: Pablo A.10/05/2017
Excelente product, Easy to install by following the video on their page. Comes really complete with everything you need to install it. I will be issuing it on a 2012 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited. It saved me from having to pay for the installation. 439695
by: Ray J.04/22/2012
Used to install in my 2005 Lincoln Navigator. This kit helped out a lot. I would have given it 5 stars, but had to make several mods in order for it to work! First mod was to the 4 way plug, it did not fit my factor 4way plug. So u will either have to splice the wires or cut the rubber seal from around the prongs to plug it in. Next the mounting bracket will not work on the 05/06 Navigator. You will have to cut the top mounting part off,so that it is just a flat square. The next thing is there is not enough zip ties, you will need at least 10 more. I did not use the fuses either, went with a inline standard fuse holder (30amp). When all is said and done. The wire and connectors really came in handy and the product is install. Hope the picture below will help others out because, I couldn't find any info on where to mount the 7-way. But found a creative location that still has somewhat of a factory look! 38028
Have you had any troubles using the inline fuse vice the circuit breaker they reccomend?
-- comment by: Glenn - 07/10/2015None at all
-- comment by: Ray J - 07/17/2015by: Ian G.02/25/2017
This kit had basically everything needed for a successful installation on a 2010 Honda Odyssey. It even came with a second quick-splice connector that I used to splice into the Odyssey's reverse light wire. (The reverse wire is in the wiring harness on the rear passenger side, in a bundle headed up toward the hatch. Use the included tester to find the wire by poking the sharp point of the tester into the wire insulation. I removed the hatch light panel with a flat screwdriver to identify the color of wire to look for.) There are excellent step-by-step videos of how to do this installation on etrailer.com. Find the one for your vehicle and pay close attention to where the technician drills through the firewall. I copied his hole location and it worked out perfectly. Some extras to consider are: (1) ETBCXW extra wire, if your vehicle is long like a minivan; (2) 18136 to connect the 7-way bracket to your hitch instead of drilling into the bumper; (3) SWC8055 grommets for passing through your firewall hole so sharp metal doesn't eventually dig through the wire insulation; (4) some 11" or longer zip-ties to secure wire to the hitch frame. The included ties are not long enough for that job. 345883
by: Marc06/16/2018
Purchased kit for TV, was impressed enough that I ordered another set to wire up older truck as back up tow vehicle. Everything was laid out pretty well, if you have general electrical knowledge or just basic logic you can pretty much figure out where everything should go. I did lean heavily on the etrailer videos specific for each vehicle. Took me about 3 hrs for minivan and much less for truck. My problems were mainly due to not lifting Minivan and and having to reroute wires several times. Much easier with truck where I had easy access to underneath. Also, I’m not a mechanic or electrician so I was pretty deliberate at each step. Wire could have been a foot longer as I was pretty close to running out with van but I know it’s a generic kit not specific to vehicle, but measure twice/cut once adage should be mantra! Really liked having all parts included, saved me time having to go to store or having to stop I middle if I was missing something. Customer service was great as usual, shipping was quick both times. One really minor issue was I was unable to mount onto bumper or hitch so the option of adding mounting clip would have been great. 522768
by: Gary M.09/02/2015
I just installed a brake controller on my 2002Toyota Tundra. Because it was not wired from the factory I used the ETBC7 wiring kit. Everything was included and went together very neatly. The circuit tester included was also a big help confirming the correct wires to tap into under the dash. Highly recommend the product and the customer service. Very friendly and helpful. I would also recommend watching the youtube video. 223577
I used a large trailer to take my 54 Chev Truck from New Hampshire to California. The brake controller worked flawlessly. It was easy to adjust to fit the weight of the trailer. No complaints at all. Would highly recommend this product.
Gary M - 09/01/2016by: Rick 53011/24/2016
Overall a good product, the 7 wire plug is sealed and it looks good. The main wires are long enough to get to the engine compartment, but you will need additional 10 gauge wire and 18 gauge wire to get to the battery. Also you will need more butt connectors and ring connectors. The instructions were surprisingly pretty good and simple. I watched a install video on here and I must say it was very disappointing, confusing, did not explain things, did things in an odd manner, no good to me. And you do not have to remove the carpet or drill a hole in the firewall and use a grommet that is not included in the kit, that was really goofy. There is an existing grommet you can run wires through, upper left side. It was a VERY tough install on my 2011 Jeep Wrangler unlimited, trying to work under the dash was terrible, no space to get in or out much less work, and painful ans the floorboard is not flat, my back still hurts. And the video sad nothing about the 4 way plug bracket being welded on and totally in the way, that was another problem. So all in all a good product, but missing some parts, decent instructions, terrible video, decent price. 319344
by: Mike06/06/2018
This is a very well assembled kit. My 2013 Grand Cherokee came without the factory tow package so I needed this to wire it "from scratch" to pull our new Rpod travel trailer. The parts available within the kit allowed for several different possible setups so i had the circuit breakers I needed, etc. The generous length of 8-2 wire was plenty for my charging setup and, with the addition of a Battery Wizard isolator, I get good charge to the travel trailer without the risk of depleting my Jeep's battery when it isn't running. In my case, the Jeep's battery is under the passenger seat so it was centrally located so some wires could be ran forward for the brake controller (a Prodigy P3 ordered right here) and the rest could go to the aft. I was able to rivet a 1.5" wide piece of angle aluminum next to the battery and have JUST enough room to get the breakers, etc installed and still get the battery in and out. It was an all day job that involved taking out about half the trim panels in the car but it went back together pretty nicely. I don't wish the pain of doing this job on anyone but if you must, this kit should do it for most folks! 518439
by: Byron D08/22/2014
Excellent service, one stop shopping on web, you guys had everything that I needed in one place. After the order was place I was notified that shipping would be expedited at no charge, I placed order on Thursday and received all products on Tuesday. I also received several follow up emails from the company to make sure everything arrived and I had no further questions or problems. I Could not ask for a better experience or a better company. 148042
Thank you for taking the time to check back with me to see how everything was going after a year. I have been very pleased with the products and the service that I received from etrailer.com, keep up the great work.
Byron D - 08/24/2015by: Joe C.05/14/2018
This installation kit is a must have if your vehicle didn't come with a factory tow package. My vehicle already had the 4 wire plug in place that I installed 4 years ago which made the job easier. The most difficult job is getting the wiring into the vehicle, at least it was for me. I would suggest if your not comfortable installing this kit have a professional do it, but it may cost at least $100.-$200. for labor. The install came out fine but it was a little bit of work and took me a few hours. The reason for me installing a 7 way plug was because I installed electric brakes on my boat trailer. Another tip would be to watch their videos on the install, they were very helpful. I buy most of my trailer needs from e-trailer, they have very good pricing and their shipping is free on orders over $99. Make sure you have everything you need on your order. I needed an additional part and had to pay for shipping but it was reasonable and they do ship promptly, I had my parts in a few days. I installed electric brakes because I didn't feel safe towing the boat when braking, especially in a panic stop, which you're bound to encounter. 508404
by: Mike R04/23/2012
The product was exactly as it is advertized. No complaints. The only issue I had was the rubber boot on the 4 way connector that goes to the existing four way on the vehicle. My 4 way connector on the truck (2005 Ford Expedition) had a rubber boot on it as well and did not fit directly. I spoke to the sales rep Tamra regarding this and she directed me to a video showing the installation on a Ford Van. The video showed the adapter with the rubber boot sliding into the rubber boot on the Van side. Unfortunately on the Expedition, it did not fit and I had to cut the rubber boot off of the adapter to make it fit. Was not a big deal, but I would caution buyers that the boot will have to be cut on the adapter for the 2005 Ford Expedition's. It may be the same for other years and other models I am not sure. I did read about other customers who had to do similar things on different vehicles. All in All I was very pleased with the shipping time and quality. I was also very impressed with the customer service. They were very patient and understanding my questions about the product. Will do business again and recommend to others. 38095
by: David Pope03/20/2017
Awesome selection, great prices, knowledgeable sales people and quality products. After viewing the many different options and narrowing down to a few selections I liked, my AWESOME sales person Kat really helped me decide on the proper trailer braking module and towing hitch I needed for my situation. I simply wanted the best highest quality product on the market for my set-up period, That's what I got without compromise! EVERY part of this process was very easy and couldn't be happier! etrailer.com is "good as it gets" in my book. I'm a tuff critic when it comes to quality parts and knowledgeable service and etrailer.com EXCEEDED my expectations! I recommend everyone I hear inquiring or talking about trailers to etrailer.com. My son purchased a new trailer just after I received my parts from etrailer.com and was so impressed with my experience he called and received the same professional knowledgeable service and parts as I did. I know with confidence I have the BEST trailer components on the market when I'm pulling my double axle enclosed motorcycle trailer to the races. Thank you Kat and etrailer.com ! 359605
by: George Ireton02/15/2016
In general, the quality of the product kit seems fine. However, in my case I was not able to adhere to the instructions relative to brake pedal trigger wire connection. Turns out, on my 2011 Chevy Colorado, there is NO inactive wire at or near the brake pedal switch! All wires there were always live when tested. I had to take the vehicle to an RV repair shop for install. This cost me $142.00. After several hours of head scratching and calling GM and etrailer.com tech support, they were finally able to get it on their own. Later, I found this: https://www.etrailer.com/question-143608.html If I had known this info when I ordered the kit, I could have just run a wire from the rear brake light, all the way back up to the front, and into the brake controller red wire, and saved the install fee. I was going by the etrailer YouTube video installing a controller on a 2005 model truck, which should have been fine. It was not. I do understand that not every truck can be specifically anticipated, but that is why I am going on about it here, to hopefully make the point for others who may follow. 237864
by: Auggie02/09/2018
Excellent product, just how described, had everything that was needed, for a great installation... 474390
by: GTFDude11/04/2016
This is an excellent wiring kit to install your brake controller. Doing so will be a big job requiring several hours for you but if you're handy you can do it. The bracket, 7 pin connector, circuit breaker modules, heavy gauge grey wire all seem high quality and most of the screws you'll need are included. You will need a brake controller module to tie into, I used the TEKONSHA P3 and love it. eTrailer has install videos but the guy only talks about wire colors not purpose. An included "purpose for color" wiring diagram was not included and would help. Once I understood the brake controller needs a 12V feed, a tap into your on/off braking circuit, a ground and routing these wires through the firewall was doable. The heavy gauge grey wire will have a strand pulled out of it, wired to 40 Amp CB under your hood. This is the positive 12 Volt charging feed for your trailer and that's why it goes direct to the battery and uses a 40 Amp circuit breaker. It took me 6 hours to install this but much of that was trying find where to drill through the firewall of a 2005 Honda Pilot. 313654
by: Randy F08/28/2015
This took me a long time to install. I did it over the course of two evenings. The hardest part was deciphering discrepancies in the install video, such as when the installer said connect the accessory to the silver part of the circuit breaker and the battery to the copper part, and then seemed to do the opposite in the video. Also I was sent the install video for the brake controller for a 2011 Odyssey but I have a 2009. I spent a long time looking for a nonexistent grommet under the dashboard, then found a video for a 2009 which recommended a grommet under the driver's seat, which would mean I would need more wiring. Luckily I found an easy-to-access grommet inside the center dash console, below the stereo. Because of that, I had just enough wiring to complete the job (although a bit longer wiring would have made the install neater.) it was also a it unclear to me what to do with the white wire after splicing the gray into black and white. That was not explained very well on the video. Tomorrow I will find out if my wiring is correct when I go to pick up our pop up camper! 222541
by: Erik Mc04/05/2014
JUST BUY THIS KIT ALREADY!! Read on.... This kit had almost everything I needed for my (new to me) 2007 Dodge Durango without the 'tow package' and I pull the heck out of a single axle '07 Fleetwood Williamsburg Tent Trailer. My aim was to have this turn out to be a professional install. The only items I needed (that the kit did not have) was a seven foot length of heavy wire required to run the ground from the brake controller (probably could have just grounded it the chassis under the dash but the paper instructions show the ground going to the battery) and an 18" length of smaller gauge wire to go from the red brake controller wire to the brake light switch wire. When the job was done everything tested perfect at the connector and It took me about 4.5 hours since I like things to look pretty everywhere. The price for everything you get in this awesome kit is well worth not having to run around and guess what you will need at Home Depot and the RV Supply store! Just buy it. I purchased the Curt Venturer Brake Controller with this kit. Thank you etrailer! 123838
by: Garry in Indio06/25/2017
Worked great on a 2002 tundra. Video of installation is spot on, used my smart phone following instructions as I proceeded. All parts fit and function nicely, with clean location and fitment of components. The relays locate between battery and inner fenderwall, with controller wires routing from interior through firewall next to booster. I used a grommet for this with adhesive backed foam on inside to keep it sealed from engine compartment elements. 398894
by: Charlie B.06/18/2014
Thanks for putting together such an excellent product and system. This is the first brake control I have installed, the Prodigy P2, and the ETBC7 installation kit. Went great, looks good and works well. Watching the video of an installation on an Xterra made my installation on a Pathfinder go even smoother. Many thanks. 136283
Still working great. So easy to adjust. I am also using the prodigy on my 2500 dodge ram which was already wired for a brake controller. Taking the whole rig to the mountains this weekend and I feel safe and confident.
Charlie B - 06/19/2015by: Mike F.03/19/2017
Toyota Tacoma 2015 no factory wiring harness. Two things that would make installation of this much easier, especially for a 65 year old man, like me. Provide a 1 foot long piece of 1/4 inch pvc tubing. After you puncture the rubber grommet around the wiring harness, there was no way still for me to push the wires through all that rubber. So I got a piece of tubing and shoved that through after piercing the rubber with a succession of larger and larger screwdrivers. Then I pushed the tubing through. The wires easily slide through the tubing. Had to do this 3 times but it worked great. Hooking up the red wire on the controller pigtail is a PITA. How about this. Manufacture a plastic connector that connects the brake switch plug to the brake switch that ALREADY has a red line lead on it. Make them vehicle model specific. Charge ten bucks for it. It would be worth it to avoid the distress of trying to hook it up with a clam shell splice. Just finding the right wire was hard enough, getting it hooked up, yikes. 355868
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