Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949

Item # LM11949

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Our Price: $5.24

Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Shipping Weight: 0.18 lbs

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LM11949 - Bearing LM11949 etrailer Bearings
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949 part number LM11949 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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  • Reviews (36)
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM11949

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3000 lbs Axle
  • .750 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing LM11949
  • Race LM11910

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 0.750"
  • Matching race (sold separately): LM11910
  • Application: outer bearing for AH15450E agricultural hub


LM11949 Replacement Bearing







Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949 - LM11949

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (36 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- LM11949
by:

Service was great and helpful 716167



- LM11949
by:

good bearings I use them in off road highly abused environment and replace annually as preventative maintenance have never had one fail 713364



- LM11949
by:

Excellent service. 715618



- LM11949
by:

etrailer had this part which I could not find locally. It was a perfect fit and sealed against the axle well. 715231



- LM11949
by:

Perfect fit! 639072



- LM11949
by:

The bearing was a direct fit with no problem installing it. I hated your delivery method. UPS MAIL INNOVATIONS SUCK. As I was paying shipping the mail innovations shouldn't have even been on the table. Not that it mattered, but it took longer than it should to be delivered because of the transfers. Don't even know whose bright idea mail innovations is. 608008



- LM11949
by:

Fit and price right 597696



- LM11949
by:

Needed to replace the bearings on my trailer wheels. These were an exact replacement and worked great. Wish they were made in the USA, but other than that, I’m very happy with them. 595806



- LM11949
by:

The correct bearings were received in a timely manner. 566563



- LM11949
by:

The bearings,races,and remainder of this order was perfect. However the seals were the wrong size, I sent them back for credit. 553242



- LM11949
by:

The customer service was outstanding! Unfortunately I had some of my order missing because of the packaging was ripped open, I informed customer service and they took care of me right away. I am very pleased with my order Thanks again! 551105



- LM11949
by:

I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!! Thanks Kayla!!! 499774



- LM11949
by:

great the right parts i needed 455077



- LM11949
by:

Hard to find bearing size. They have them all here!!! 428982



- LM11949
by:

Bearings fit perfect. Your catalog makes it easy to find correct parts the first time. 424438



- LM11949
by:

great 413963



- LM11949
by:

The trailer I'm rebuilding had obsolete bearings, but using a caliper I was able to find everything on etrailer. My local trailer supply place was ridiculously over priced so I went with etrailer. Thank You for the quick delivery. 404409



- LM11949
by:

A simple bearing pack on an early 50's travel trailer axle turned nightmare. My local guys just said sorry. However, etrailer had the parts in stock at a great price. The site is very user friendly. What made finding the right parts easy was their excellent and complete listing of sizes and dimentions of seals, bearings and hub caps etc. that I needed. I found the parts to be of high quality. This combined with unprecedented customer service and fast shipping has earned them my future business. I would highly recomend them as a go to site for all your trailer needs. THANKS. 400534



- LM11949
by:

Bearings have held up great after a year of use, great quality product. 375904



- LM11949
by:

Received Trailer bearings and misc parts as ordered. 361904



- LM11949
by:

So far so good! 332913



- LM11949
by:

Bearings fit perfect! 302905


Comments

Everything is Great!

Don M - 10/04/2017

28691

- LM11949
by:

Customer support for finding replacement bearing, races and grease seals for a 1973 Apache popup trailer were spot on. All items fit perfectly, delivery was quick and customer support excellent. Thanks to all! Bearing LM11949 Race LM11910 Bearing L44649 Race L44610 Grease Seal - 10-9 292296



- LM11949
by:

I had a non standard axle, so had to call and verify bearings. Was very pleased with the service and that the person on the other end was very easy to understand. Shipment was fast and the parts fit. The price was very competitive. 290297



- LM11949
by:

Website is easy to use and my order was filled and sent in two days. Received parts ordered and was able to rebuild my boat trailer hubs with ease. 284850



- LM11949
by:

The bearings arrived undamaged and I installed them with no problems. 283489



- LM11949
by:

The exact part 274102



- LM11949
by:

I am very satisfied with the purchasing process through etrailer.com. finding the bearing that I needed , ordering it and then having someone personally contact me to let me know that it was shipped along with the tracking number and his phone number if I incurred any problems made this smooth and problem-free. I also really appreciate The Helpful videos. You do it right etrailer. You will continue to have my business thank you very much 240997



- LM11949
by:

AAAAAAAAAAAAAA+++++++++++++ 200063



- LM11949
by:

Great product Great Price (Thanks A Bunch) 185238



- LM11949
by:

Great Deal. Very easy to use site. Great pictures so I could confirm what I was buying. Full measurements on everything. Super Prompt shipping. Thank You ! 156650


Comments

Bearings working out great a year later still...

Mark T - 10/22/2015

15649

- LM11949
by:

The bearings were delivered on time. There was very good communication as to the shipping dates and delivery times and when the bearings came they were exactly what was ordered. 154705



- LM11949
by:

Bearings are very quality. I used them on my Sears gamefisher boat trailer. 89180


Comments

BEARINGS ARE GOOD. I HAVE RECOMMENDED Etrailer TO OTHERS..

Kevi - 07/12/2014

5546

- LM11949
by:

Thank you. 14780



- LM11949
by:

Exactly what was needed at a reasonable price. Quick service too. 14660



- LM11949
by:

Trailer Bearings Your trailer bearings are excellent, better than the originals. service and delivery time also were far better than other companies. Thanks 4312


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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  • Trailer Hub That Uses Bearings LM11949 and LM67048
  • Both replacement trailer brakes and hub/drums should be selected based on the axle weight rating. The best way to select replacement hub/drums is to pull one of the hubs and remove its inner and outer bearings to obtain their part numbers. This is the easiest method to find a compatible hub. When not available measurements can be used but these need to be very precise, to the nearest thousandth of an inch, such as 1.234-inches. We do carry one bearing with an inside diameter of 0.75-inches,...
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  • Replacement Hubs For Trailer With 3/4 Inch Outer Diameter Spindle That Is Straight
  • The only hub we have that is currently available for a 3/4 inch spindle is Item # AH15450ECOMP. This is an agricultural hub that fits 3,000 lbs axles for 4 on 5 inch bolt pattern. It takes an inner bearing, Item # LM67048, and outer bearing, Item # LM11949. It is meant to be used for low speed (less than 20 mph) agricultural applications. It is designed for a spindle like Item # AS1500E. If you can find the actual bearing number on your old bearings and seal or can send me a bearing...
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  • Help Picking Out Replacement Hub for TDE 11033
  • That is most likely a Tie Down hub which while we don't carry that exact brand we most likely have what you need. Since the stud and bearings need replacing it might make more sense just to replace the hub since idler hubs like what you have are pretty inexpensive. Can you get me the bearing numbers or the dimensions of the spindle where the bearings and seal ride?
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  • Replacement Hub Needed for Boat Trailer with 5 on 4-1/2 inch Bolt Pattern and LM67048 Bearing
  • To determine what replacement hub will fit your spindle you will need the part number of your Inner Bearing, Outer Bearing, and Grease Seal. If you cannot find the part numbers then you can use a Digital Caliper # PTW80157 and measure parts B, C, and D of your spindle from the attached picture. You will want to measure them to the 3rd decimal place, like 0.725. Currently the only hub that we have to offer which has a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern and uses the # LM67048 bearing is the...
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  • Titan Replacement for Dico Trailer Idler Hub 17214
  • Dico was bought out by Titan who now offers 5-on 4-1/2 idler hub # T1721400042. This hub is rated for 2500-lb axles and includes bearings, races, grease seal, grease cap, and lug nuts. You can be assured it will fit the trailer spindle as long as the original hub uses the same bearings, inner bearing # LM67048 and outer bearing # LM11949. This Titan hub's included grease seal has an inner diameter of 1.54-inches and an outer diameter of 1.78-inches. Please click on the video link to see...
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  • Trailer Bearing Availability with Inner Diameter of .75 inch and 1.25 inch
  • The fact your outer bearing fits on a .75 diameter spindle means we aren't going to have a standard bearing kit to fit since that's not a standard dimension. Can you get me the C dimension as well? It could be that you need the part # LM67048 with a race # LM67010 which has an inner diameter of 1.25 and # LM11949 with race # LM11910 which has inner diameter of .75 inch.
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  • Dico 15638 Replacement Trailer Hub Recommendation
  • We have the Titan hub part # T1721400042 which will work for you. It has the bearing numbers # LM67048 and # LM11949 that you have and comes with a grease seal. This hub is not pre-assembled though. We don't have a version that is pre-assembled.
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seals for Trailer
  • The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # 15123 and .750 inch outer bearing # LM11949, will use races # LM11910 and # 15245. For seals, that inner bearing often is used with the Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) # RG06-070 which have an inner diameter 2.250 inches of and outer diameter of 3.376. I recommend using a caliper like # PTW80157 to get a precise measurement to confirm fit.
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  • How to Identify Compatible Hubs for Vintage Utility Trailer
  • Thank you for the photo of your vintage utility trailer's spindle. The simplest and surest way to identify a compatible trailer hub is to identify the inner and outer bearings and the grease seal it uses. Matching up those components along with the axle weight rating and the hub bolt pattern is pretty much it. However, in your case I can tell you up front that we have only a few hubs that use a bearing whose inner diameter is as small as 0.75-inches. Bearing # LM11949 has an inner diameter...
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  • Availability of Hub for LM11949 Bearing
  • Is both your inner and outer bearing the same part number? The only hub we offer that uses a LM11949 bearing would be the # AH15450ECOMP agricultural hub assembly, but it used a LM67048 inner bearing, which has a 1.25 inch inner diameter. An agricultural hub is typically used on farm equipment for low speed applications, under 20 mph or less.
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  • Replacement Hub Assembly for Tapered 3/4 spindle
  • We do have one hub that will work with 3/4 inch spindle # AS1500E, but this particular spindle measures larger than 1-1/16 inches towards the axle and does not work with the same bearings. The hub, # AH15450ECOMP, also has a 4 on 5 bolt pattern. The grease seal is also going to depend on the measurements of your spindle and we do not have any matching the dimensions you gave. We do have the correct replacement bearings # LM11949 with matching race # LM11910 and # L44649 with matching...
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  • Recommendation For Replacement Grease Seals That Fit Bearing LM67048 And Bearing LM11949
  • Based on your information, I recommend replacement grease seal, Item # 168233. This fits your bearings, Item # LM67048 and Item # LM11949. You will only need one seal per hub.
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  • Replacement Idler Hubs for Utility Trailer
  • Thank you for the photo of your trailer idler hub and for the details about its bearings. New hubs must use the very same bearing set in order to fit on your spindles. All 6-on-5-1/2-inch idler hubs we offer are shown on the linked page. Timken bearing 15118 does indeed have an inner bore of 1.189-inches but we offer no bearing with this same bore dimension. Bearing 09074 has a 0.75-inch inner bore and we offer one bearing with this same inner dimension, part # LM11949, which is commonly...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for Agricultural Hub
  • Unfortunately we don't have a hub replacement available as you have an odd sized Agricultural Hub. However, I believe I can help you with bearing replacements. You will want # 14125A and # LM11949 for your bearings. The for your seal, you will need to determine fit based on the outer diameter of your hubs. We have the # 10-42 which has an outer diameter or 2.33 inches, # SL175 with 2.722 inches, or # 1105-100-031 with 2.356 inches.
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  • Replacement Bearings Races And Seals For Agricultural Trailer
  • I was unable to find Timken bearings with the LM11949 part number. The part # LM11949 we carry is a replacement outer bearing for AH15450E agricultural hub. These have an inner diameter of .750 inches. The matching outer race for this bearing is part # LM11910. The outer seal that works with this bearing and race is part # SL150. We do not currently offer a kit that includes the # LM11949 bearings. I highly recommend replacing the inner bearings, races, and seals at the same...
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  • Replacement Hub for a 3/4 Inch Diameter Straight Spindle
  • The only hub we have that is associated with a 3/4 inch spindle is # AH15450ECOMP. This is an agricultural hub that takes inner bearing # LM67048 and outer bearing # LM11949. But the spindle it fits on is not straight, it is tapered, # AS1500E. If this is a kit trailer then in order to replace the hubs, wheels, and tires you are going to have to replace the axle. I have included a link to the right to the straight axles and the axle-less systems that we have. The axle-less systems may...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for Older Trailer
  • Thank you for providing the original bearing and seal numbers from your old trailer. These part reference numbers are often the best method for finding replacements, although especially with older trailers often alternate parts may have found their way into the trailer during its lifetime. We do have the bearings # LM67048 and # LM11949 as well as their matching races, parts # LM67010 and # LM11910. Please note that both of these bearings have an application as an OUTER bearing. The...
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  • Grease Seal SL150 Fits Bearing LM11949
  • I am showing that you can use the Grease Seal SL150Grease Seal, item # SL150, and the Bearing, item # LM11949, together.
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  • Replacement Grease Seals For Coleman Colombia Pop-Up Camper
  • The grease seals that will work for your trailer are part # CE16305A. These seals have an inside diameter of 1-inch and an outside diameter of 1-7/8 inches and are designed to fit a 3/4-inch straight spindle. For replacement bearings I recommend part # LM11949, and the race that matches this bearing is part # LM11910.
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  • How to Select Replacement Trailer Hubs
  • Thank you for submitting your photo of your trailer spindles. To select compatible replacement hubs that have the 5-on-4-1/2-inch bolt pattern you want you will need to match up several characteristics to your existing hubs. You will need to match the axle's capacity and also either the bearing numbers or bearing diameters, as you have provided. I was able to find only a little information about the bearings (axle cone runners) you referenced, parts 909501 and 909502. They reportedly...
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  • Replacement Bearings for a Trailer LM11949 and LM67048
  • We have one bearing that has an inner diameter of .75 inch. For that you would want the part # LM11949. This bearing is typically only seen on agricultural hubs though. The inner bearing you need is part # LM67048. The closest seal we have to the dimensions you listed is the part # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches.
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  • Which Grease Seal for LM11949 Bearing and LM11910 Race on Utility Trailer with No-Lug Hub
  • We do not have any grease seals that match your dimensions. When part numbers are not visible on the old grease seals taking measurements of the spindles themselves is the next best option. But if you took your measurements on the old grease seal this could be the reason for no match since the seals may become deformed over time. You will obtain more accurate measurements using a precision dial caliper on the spindles themselves. If you can re-check the spindle dimensions using a...
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  • Is there a Replacement Hub for an Old Boat Trailer that Uses Bearing LM11949
  • It sounds like the spindle is 3/4 inch diameter its whole length. We only have one hub that takes bearing # LM11949 and it takes a different size bearing for the other bearing. It is also an agricultural hub and rated for very low speeds so it would not work for you. Given that you have an older trailer with parts that are going to be hard to replace, I recommend replacing the axle. We carry some axles, see link, but if the size you need is not listed then you will need to custom order...
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  • Replacement Hub Components For Sears Gamefisher Boat Trailer
  • We do offer the # LM11949 bearings you said is used on your trailer for the inner and outer bearings. We also offer the race that is used for that bearing. It is part # LM11910. For the seal you will need to measure the inside diameter of the hub and also the diameter of the spindle the seal rides on since the # LM11949 bearing is not a common combination for both the inner and outer bearing. You can use a digital caliper like part # PTW80157 to get an accurate measurement.
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  • Availability of Hub Assembly for a 12 inch Wheel with a 5 on 4-1/2 Bolt Pattern
  • We do have a hub that is compatible with a 12 inch wheel and has a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern. The Titan Trailer Idler Hub Assembly for 2,500-lb Axles # T1721400042 does have the outer bearing # LM11949 which has the 0.750 measurement that you took but you will want to make sure that the inner bearing # LM67048 fits (inner diameter is 1.250 inches) and the grease seal inner diameter of 1.688 inches is compatible with your spindle. If you check out the photo I attached you can look...
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  • Replacement Axle for Old Trailer That Uses Hub Bearing L11949
  • Tapered roller bearing # LM11949 is typically used in agricultural hubs and mates with race # LM11910. We do offer these parts the correct grease seals # CE16305A to match your dimensions but we do not offer any hubs that use this specific bearing as both the inner and outer bearing. Your best bet is to replace the entire axle with an up-to-date kit that includes everything, such as Dexter 3500-lb axle # 35545I-EZ-89 as an example. This 89-inch axle has spring seats spaced at 74-inches...
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  • Replacement Bearing Buddy for Boat Trailer
  • It sounds like you're looking for a replacement Bearing Buddy. The closest Bearing Buddy we carry to 1-3/4 inches is # BB1781 which fits a 1.781 hub bore. It works with outer bearing # LM11949
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  • How To Determine What Hub Assembly is Needed With a Bearing Inner Diameter of 3/4 Inch
  • The Dexter Trailer Hub Assembly - 4 on 4, part # 8-91-05UC1, uses the # L44649 bearing as the inner and outer bearings. The inner diameter of the bearing is 1.063 inches (1-1/16). The only bearing I have that has a 3/4 inch inner diameter is the Redline Bearing, part # LM11949, which is used as an outer bearing on the Agricultural Hub Assembly - 4 on 5, part # AH15450ECOMP. This is a hub that has a 4 on 5 inch bolt pattern and is used for low speed (less than 20 mph) agricultural applications....
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Info for this part was:

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