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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949

Item # LM11949
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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LM11949 - Bearing LM11949 etrailer Bearings
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949 part number LM11949 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - LM11949

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 3000 lbs Axle
  • .750 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing LM11949
  • Race LM11910

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 0.750"
  • Matching race (sold separately): LM11910
  • Application: outer bearing for AH15450E agricultural hub


LM11949 Replacement Bearing





Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - LM11949 - LM11949

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (40 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- LM11949
by:

Perfect fit 881492



- LM11949
by:

Was shorted one bearing on my order but etrailer sent one out right away. 849358



- LM11949
by:

Great quality 776102



- LM11949
by:

Customer service was awesome. 744457



- LM11949
by:

Service was great and helpful 716167



- LM11949
by:

good bearings I use them in off road highly abused environment and replace annually as preventative maintenance have never had one fail 713364



- LM11949
by:

Excellent service. 715618



- LM11949
by:

etrailer had this part which I could not find locally. It was a perfect fit and sealed against the axle well. 715231



- LM11949
by:

Perfect fit! 639072



- LM11949
by:

The bearing was a direct fit with no problem installing it. I hated your delivery method. UPS MAIL INNOVATIONS SUCK. As I was paying shipping the mail innovations shouldn't have even been on the table. Not that it mattered, but it took longer than it should to be delivered because of the transfers. Don't even know whose bright idea mail innovations is. 608008



- LM11949
by:

Fit and price right 597696



- LM11949
by:

Needed to replace the bearings on my trailer wheels. These were an exact replacement and worked great. Wish they were made in the USA, but other than that, I’m very happy with them. 595806



- LM11949
by:

The correct bearings were received in a timely manner. 566563



- LM11949
by:

The bearings,races,and remainder of this order was perfect. However the seals were the wrong size, I sent them back for credit. 553242



- LM11949
by:

The customer service was outstanding! Unfortunately I had some of my order missing because of the packaging was ripped open, I informed customer service and they took care of me right away. I am very pleased with my order Thanks again! 551105



- LM11949
by:

I have a late 70's boat trailer that needed new tires and wheel bearings... no kits available so I called etrailer and talked to Kayla. We figured out everything over the phone, Kayla got all the the correct bearings and seals to me fast! The tires I ordered where out of stock, but I was upgraded to the galvanized wheel for free!!! Thanks Kayla!!! 499774



- LM11949
by:

great the right parts i needed 455077



- LM11949
by:

Hard to find bearing size. They have them all here!!! 428982



- LM11949
by:

Bearings fit perfect. Your catalog makes it easy to find correct parts the first time. 424438



- LM11949
by:

great 413963



- LM11949
by:

The trailer I'm rebuilding had obsolete bearings, but using a caliper I was able to find everything on etrailer. My local trailer supply place was ridiculously over priced so I went with etrailer. Thank You for the quick delivery. 404409



- LM11949
by:

A simple bearing pack on an early 50's travel trailer axle turned nightmare. My local guys just said sorry. However, etrailer had the parts in stock at a great price. The site is very user friendly. What made finding the right parts easy was their excellent and complete listing of sizes and dimentions of seals, bearings and hub caps etc. that I needed. I found the parts to be of high quality. This combined with unprecedented customer service and fast shipping has earned them my future business. I would highly recomend them as a go to site for all your trailer needs. THANKS. 400534



- LM11949
by:

Bearings have held up great after a year of use, great quality product. 375904



- LM11949
by:

Received Trailer bearings and misc parts as ordered. 361904



- LM11949
by:

So far so good! 332913


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

  • Availability of Hub for LM11949 Bearing
    Is both your inner and outer bearing the same part number? The only hub we offer that uses a LM11949 bearing would be the # AH15450ECOMP agricultural hub assembly, but it used a LM67048 inner bearing, which has a 1.25 inch inner diameter. An agricultural hub is typically used on farm equipment for low speed applications, under 20 mph or less.
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hub That Uses Bearings LM11949 and LM67048
    Both replacement trailer brakes and hub/drums should be selected based on the axle weight rating. The best way to select replacement hub/drums is to pull one of the hubs and remove its inner and outer bearings to obtain their part numbers. This is the easiest method to find a compatible hub. When not available measurements can be used but these need to be very precise, to the nearest thousandth of an inch, such as 1.234-inches. We do carry one bearing with an inside diameter of 0.75-inches,...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings Races And Seals For Agricultural Trailer
    I was unable to find Timken bearings with the LM11949 part number. The part # LM11949 we carry is a replacement outer bearing for AH15450E agricultural hub. These have an inner diameter of .750 inches. The matching outer race for this bearing is part # LM11910. The outer seal that works with this bearing and race is part # SL150. We do not currently offer a kit that includes the # LM11949 bearings. I highly recommend replacing the inner bearings, races, and seals at the same...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub Components For Sears Gamefisher Boat Trailer
    We do offer the # LM11949 bearings you said is used on your trailer for the inner and outer bearings. We also offer the race that is used for that bearing. It is part # LM11910. For the seal you will need to measure the inside diameter of the hub and also the diameter of the spindle the seal rides on since the # LM11949 bearing is not a common combination for both the inner and outer bearing. You can use a digital caliper like part # PTW80157 to get an accurate measurement.
    view full answer...
  • How to Determine Replacement Bearings and Seals for 1970s Popup Camper
    You are correct that the process of removing old grease seals can distort their shape and make it tougher to measure their inner and outer diameters. Part numbers from the originals are the preferred way to find replacement parts but the other option is to measure your spindles at the various points where the seal and bearings ride. The linked diagram shows you these points on the spindle that you can measure with your digital caliper. This is more reliable than measuring the old parts...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Race and Seal for Bearing # LM11949
    The Replacement Race for # LM11949 Bearing is # LM11910. The seal is not as easy to determine, so I recommend using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to measure the inside of the hub and the outside of the spindle to give you the inner and outer diameter for the seal needed. These measurements need to be precise or you will have a leak that can cause serious problems on your trailer. I've attached an article to assist and have also linked the page to your seal options.
    view full answer...
  • Which Grease Seal for LM11949 Bearing and LM11910 Race on Utility Trailer with No-Lug Hub
    We do not have any grease seals that match your dimensions. When part numbers are not visible on the old grease seals taking measurements of the spindles themselves is the next best option. But if you took your measurements on the old grease seal this could be the reason for no match since the seals may become deformed over time. You will obtain more accurate measurements using a precision dial caliper on the spindles themselves. If you can re-check the spindle dimensions using a...
    view full answer...
  • Finding Replacement Wheel Bearings for Log Splitter With a 3/4 Inch Diameter Spindle
    The reason we recommend folks use a digital or dial caliper to measure the bearing ID is because it's essential that the measurement be highly accurate. Using bearings that don't fit perfectly can lead to all kinds of problems. Typically, a hub will use a different inner and outer bearing, with the inner bearing being larger. To determine which seal is used with a particular bearing, you need to know the outside diameter of the race used with that bearing. The LM11949 uses a LM11910...
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Bearings for a Trailer LM11949 and LM67048
    We have one bearing that has an inner diameter of .75 inch. For that you would want the part # LM11949. This bearing is typically only seen on agricultural hubs though. The inner bearing you need is part # LM67048. The closest seal we have to the dimensions you listed is the part # 168233 which has an inner diameter of 1.688 inches and an outer diameter of 2.332 inches.
    view full answer...
  • Which Outer Bearing Mates with Inner Bearing LM67048 on a 4-Bolt Hub
    We have a 4-bolt hub that uses LM67048 as the inner bearing and an LM11949 bearing as the outer. That is the only hub/bearing configuration we have for an LM67048 inner bearing. It is typically a hub found in agricultural trailer applications. The hub is part # AH15450ECOMP if you want to take a look at it and see if it looks like your hub. I pulled one of the LM11949 bearings from our warehouse to measure. When measuring bearings, you really need to use a dial caliper. A tape measure...
    view full answer...
  • Replacing the Hub on an Older Homemade Trailer With Bearing LM11949
    The hub assembly we offer with bearing # LM11949 is an agricultural hub, # AH15450ECOMP. This hub is intended for agricultural use, and the outer bearing measurement you mentioned does not match the outer bearing used by this hub and spindle. This axle uses bearings that are nonstandard, so it may be easier for your to swap out the axle for a new one that uses standard bearings. I've added a link to a list of all our available axles to see if we have one that will work for you.
    view full answer...
  • Bearing and Race Availability LM11949 and LM11910
    We don't have a kit for the parts you need, but you can order them all individually. You would want the part # LM11949, part # LM11910. Since the bearing combination you referenced is uncommon you will need to measure to determine what seal you would need. To pick out the correct replacement seal you will need to use digital dial calipers to measure the inner and outer diameter of the seal. Or you can remove the seal and the part number should be stamped in the rubber part of the...
    view full answer...
  • Recommended Bearings for Boat Trailer Spindle Measurements
    We have the bearings for your spindle measurements, # LM11949 for outer and # LM67048 for your inner bearing. We do have one hub assembly that will work with these bearings. It is the Titan Trailer Hub Assembly for 2,500-lb Axles - 5 on 4-1/2 - Cast # T1721400042.
    view full answer...
  • Looking for LM11949 Wheel Bearing and Associated LM11910 Race
    We offer the # LM119149 wheel bearings as well as the # LM11910 races. The only hub we offer that uses the LM119149 is an agricultural hub, part # AH15450ECOMP which uses the # LM119149 as the outer bearing. If that's the hub you have, which uses the # LM67048 as the inner bearing, you'd want to use # SL150 as the grease seal. If you use a different hub, in order to recommend the correct grease seal, I'll need to know the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides (which will...
    view full answer...
  • How to Pick Out Trailer Hub Replacement for 1986 Shorelandr
    Based on the bearings you have currently the only hub we offer that would fit as a replacement is the part # AH15450ECOMP which has a 4 on 5 inch bolt pattern. I attached a help article on determining bolt pattern so that you can verify you have the same.
    view full answer...
  • Replacement Hub Availability for a Hub that Has Bearing JLM 710949c
    That bearing number you listed doesn't cross reference with any of the ones that we carry, but there still might be a way you can determine if we have a hub that would work for you. You would need to use a digital or dial caliper and measure the spindle you have on your trailer where the bearings and seals ride. With that info I can see if we have something that would work.
    view full answer...
  • Information on Bearing Number LM11949
    This Bearing, part # LM11949, is most commonly used with the Agricultural Hub Assembly, 4 Bolt, 5 inch Circle, part # AH15450ECOMP. If you are attempting to replace existing bearings, you will just need to check your current bearings for the part number LM11949 to ensure you are ordering the correct replacement bearings.
    view full answer...
  • How to Select Replacement Trailer Wheels with Different Bolt Pattern
    We can help you check to see if you can install new hubs that have a different wheel bolt pattern. The key is knowing your current hubs' bearings, both inner and outer. A new hub can be installed so long as it uses the same bearings as the original hub. You'll want to pull one hub so you can remove its bearings and obtain their part numbers. The linked photo shows you the usual appearance of those numbers. Once you know the bearing numbers you can use the linked page to see our idler...
    view full answer...
  • Trailer Hub Recommendation with Bearings LM67048 and LM11949
    We do have the agricultural hub part # AH15450ECOMP which uses the bearing numbers you mentioned of # LM11949 and # LM67048. The grease seal included has a 1.5 inch inner diameter.
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  • Titan Replacement for Dico Trailer Idler Hub 17214
    Dico was bought out by Titan who now offers 5-on 4-1/2 idler hub # T1721400042. This hub is rated for 2500-lb axles and includes bearings, races, grease seal, grease cap, and lug nuts. You can be assured it will fit the trailer spindle as long as the original hub uses the same bearings, inner bearing # LM67048 and outer bearing # LM11949. This Titan hub's included grease seal has an inner diameter of 1.54-inches and an outer diameter of 1.78-inches. Please click on the video link to see...
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  • Replacement Axle for Old Trailer That Uses Hub Bearing L11949
    Tapered roller bearing # LM11949 is typically used in agricultural hubs and mates with race # LM11910. We do offer these parts the correct grease seals # CE16305A to match your dimensions but we do not offer any hubs that use this specific bearing as both the inner and outer bearing. Your best bet is to replace the entire axle with an up-to-date kit that includes everything, such as Dexter 3500-lb axle # 35545I-EZ-89 as an example. This 89-inch axle has spring seats spaced at 74-inches...
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  • Replacement Hubs For Trailer With 3/4 Inch Outer Diameter Spindle That Is Straight
    The only hub we have that is currently available for a 3/4 inch spindle is Item # AH15450ECOMP. This is an agricultural hub that fits 3,000 lbs axles for 4 on 5 inch bolt pattern. It takes an inner bearing, Item # LM67048, and outer bearing, Item # LM11949. It is meant to be used for low speed (less than 20 mph) agricultural applications. It is designed for a spindle like Item # AS1500E. If you can find the actual bearing number on your old bearings and seal or can send me a bearing...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seals for Trailer
    The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing # 15123 and .750 inch outer bearing # LM11949, will use races # LM11910 and # 15245. For seals, that inner bearing often is used with the Grease Seals 10-36 (pair) # RG06-070 which have an inner diameter 2.250 inches of and outer diameter of 3.376. I recommend using a caliper like # PTW80157 to get a precise measurement to confirm fit.
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  • Replacement Hub with LM67048 Inner Bearing and LM11949 Outer Bearing
    Based on the inner and outer bearing numbers you provided (thank you!) the correct trailer hub assembly for your utility trailer is the Titan # T1721400042. This hub does use the same # LM67048 inner bearing and # LM11949 as your existing assemblies. It is designed for 2,500 pound axles. The bearings, races, and grease seal are included. I wasn't able to pinpoint the dimensions on your current grease seal based on the part number you gave. The seal included with this particular hub...
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  • Trailer Hub With Inner Bearing LM67048
    There are a couple of hubs that will work inner bearing # LM67048, though that alone isn't enough information to get you the right hub. You also need to know the weight rating of your axle, the outer bearing you have and the diameter of the spindle where the grease seal rides. If you are unable to find them, you need to use Digital Caliper # 301-17068 and measure your spindle to the thousandths of an inch where the bearings and grease seal ride. You can use the photo I've attached to...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Grease Seals for Karavan Ultra 2 Place Snowmobile Trailer
    Knowing that the trailer uses a # BB1781 Bearing Buddy helps me to identify the correct replacement bearings. We carry two hubs with that bolt pattern, one with a 5 lug on 4-1/2 inch bolt circle, the other much less likely possibility is a 4 lug hub that's typically used for agricultural applications. Your outer bearing is a # LM11949, outer race is # LM11910, and the inner bearing is likely # LM67048, which would be used with the # LM67010 race. You can confirm this by using a digital...
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  • Replacement Idler Hubs for Utility Trailer
    Thank you for the photo of your trailer idler hub and for the details about its bearings. New hubs must use the very same bearing set in order to fit on your spindles. All 6-on-5-1/2-inch idler hubs we offer are shown on the linked page. Timken bearing 15118 does indeed have an inner bore of 1.189-inches but we offer no bearing with this same bore dimension. Bearing 09074 has a 0.75-inch inner bore and we offer one bearing with this same inner dimension, part # LM11949, which is commonly...
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  • Dico 15638 Replacement Trailer Hub Recommendation
    We have the Titan hub part # T1721400042 which will work for you. It has the bearing numbers # LM67048 and # LM11949 that you have and comes with a grease seal. This hub is not pre-assembled though. We don't have a version that is pre-assembled.
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  • Availability of Trailer Hub with 1-1/4 Inch Inner Bearing and 3/4 Inch Outer Bearing
    It sounds like the hubs on your trailer use the # LM67048 inner bearing (1.250 inch inner diameter) and the # LM11949 outer bearing (0.750 inner diameter). The only hub we have available that uses these bearings and features a 5 on 4-1/2 inch bolt pattern is the Titan Trailer Hub Assembly # T1721400042. Please note though that this particular hub has a weight capacity of 1,250 pounds so it is designed for 2,500 pound axles. If you use this to replace the hubs on your trailer your axle...
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  • Is there a Replacement Hub for an Old Boat Trailer that Uses Bearing LM11949
    It sounds like the spindle is 3/4 inch diameter its whole length. We only have one hub that takes bearing # LM11949 and it takes a different size bearing for the other bearing. It is also an agricultural hub and rated for very low speeds so it would not work for you. Given that you have an older trailer with parts that are going to be hard to replace, I recommend replacing the axle. We carry some axles, see link, but if the size you need is not listed then you will need to custom order...
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Info for this part was:

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Video Edited:
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Video Edited:
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Updated by:
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