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Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit with Bulbs

Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit with Bulbs

Item # RM-155
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Tow Bar Wiring

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Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring - RM-155
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Use your towed car's signal lights without tapping into its wiring. This self-contained wiring kit bypasses your vehicle's electrical system, eliminating any concerns over violating the manufacturer's warranty. Lowest Prices for the best tow bar wiring from Roadmaster. Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit with Bulbs part number RM-155 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 1-800-940-8924 for expert service.
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Roadmaster Tow Bar Wiring - RM-155

  • Bulb and Socket Kit
  • Bypasses Vehicle Wiring
  • Universal
  • Tail Light Mount
  • Roadmaster

Use your towed car's signal lights without tapping into its wiring. This self-contained wiring kit bypasses your vehicle's electrical system, eliminating any concerns over violating the manufacturer's warranty.


Features:

  • Lets you use your towed vehicle's brake, running and signal lights without tapping into its wiring
  • Bypasses towed car's electrical system completely - wiring is routed beneath the car
  • Works via independent plugs and sockets mounted inside the tail lights
  • Maintains manufacturer's warranty on towed car by avoiding any involvement with its electrical system
  • Overall measurement of bulb: 2-1/4"
    • Length of bulb from flange to top of bulb: 2"
  • Includes all necessary wiring, 2 lights, 2 sockets, zip-ties and instructions
  • Made in the USA
  • Limited Lifetime Warranty


Note: Towed car must have enough room inside the tail light lens housing for an extra bulb and socket.



155 RoadMaster Tail Light Wiring Kit with Bulbs

Installation Details RM-155 Installation instructions

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles




Video of Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit with Bulbs

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2009 Mini Cooper

Today, on this 2009 Mini Cooper, we're going to install part number RM-155 from Roadmaster. The first thing we're going to do is start from the front of our car and work our way back. To help run our wire through our grill, we're going to use a piece of airline tubing. This could also be a piece of fish wire or another piece of wire, to help it through. We'll run it through the grill, and then underneath, where we can reach it. Next, we'll load our wire harness. It has two 4-pull ends on it. Doesn't matter which end, but we need to remove one.

So, we'll go ahead and cut it off and tape it to our pull wire, and pull it on through. Once we have it pulled all the way through, we'll leave some hanging out the front, and we'll put a loom around it. After we have our loom on our wire, we're going to end up pulling that behind the grill and out one of the slots. To help pull our wire through, behind the grill, we're going to take the shorter 4-pull lead that comes with the kit. This is actually the lead that goes between the RV and the towed vehicle. We're going to push that through the slot and then to the inside.

We push those two together and use it to pull the 4-pull harness back through the grill. Once we have it pulled through the grill, we'll go ahead and use some zip ties to attach it. We'll also use the zip tie around the outside of the 4-pull to help keep it from being pushed back in through the grill. We'll also leave a little bit of length out so we can pull it away from the grill as needed. Along the length of it, we'll go ahead and zip tie our wire. After that's done, we'll continue running our wire underneath the car, back towards the tail lights. As I run it underneath the car, we're going to run it underneath the subframe and out towards the back.

We'll also follow the brake line along the side of the gas tank, and over the rear suspension components, all the way back to our tail light on the driver's side. At this point, we'll go ahead and leave the wires alone, and we'll go ahead and remove the tail lights. To remove the tail lights, first off, we have to remove the chrome bezel around the tail light. Using a small, right-angle pick, we're going to work our way between the chrome and the tail light lens. This will unsnap, but it also helps to pull back the bezel a little bit. You can see the little red tabs that you can push down with a small screwdriver to help break it free.

It seems to work best to work at the top and work your way down. Once the bezel is removed, you'll see there's three screws that we have to remove next. We're removing three torque screws. On the inside, this is really hard to find, but there's a tab on top and bottom. It's best to push down, if you can, on the tab on top, as you push out the lens, and angle the bottom of the lens up so the bottom tab clears the sheet metal. This will take a little practice to get to the tabs. You have to get it at just the right angle, and it will come apart. Once we have our light free, we'll go ahead and disconnect the wire harness from the tail light. There's a small tab we have to push, and we can release it. We're done with our driver's side. Let's go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side. Our tail light's out of the way. Look inside on the driver's side socket, and look down, you'll see a rubber grommet. We'll go ahead and poke that grommet out and let it fall to the ground. Then, we'll go ahead and retrieve the grommet, and we'll cut the center out of it. Using a utility knife, we'll work our way around and then pull it apart. In this case, we're using a pair of pliers to help pull it apart. We'll set that aside for now, and we'll go back to our 4-pull wire. Using our airline tubing again, we'll go ahead and run it down through the hole, and use it to pull up our wire. We'll pull it up and through, and then run our grommet through it. We'll make sure we take up all the slack, and then, we'll take our 4-pull wire and go right back through the grommet again, so we'll be making a loop with it, and we'll run it back down through the same hole. Once again, we'll make sure we take up all our slack, but leave enough wire inside that we can use to make our connections later. In this case, we're using maybe a little over a foot left over. Once we're satisfied with the length, we'll go ahead and reinstall our grommet with the wires inside of it. We'll leave that side alone for now, and we'll go ahead continuing running our wire over to the passenger side. Running to the passenger side, there's some factory wiring that we'll follow along the way. Make sure we stay above the heat shield, and away from the exhaust. Now, at the bottom of the socket on the passenger side, there's a large rubber grommet. We'll use a knife to cut it, and then use our airline tubing to pull our wire through, once again. We'll take up our slack and cut off our excess. Now, we've got our wires ran to both tail lights. Now, let's go ahead and start working on the tail lights themselves. We'll take one of the tail lights, in this case, the driver's side. We'll go ahead and mark for a hole. We'll use our one-inch hole saw to make our mark first. Then, we'll drill out a pilot hole first, with a quarter-inch bit, then follow it back up with the hole saw. Now, we'll take our light socket and bulb, and we'll do a quick test fit. When you put it in there, you can see the tabs are bent in, so it doesn't grip. What we're going to do is remove the tail light and pull out the tabs a little bit, working our way around. We'll take a small screwdriver to pry up the small tabs. We're only going to pull up the tabs just enough to where we start moving them, and then do a test fit on the tail light. If you look like it'll 00:07:28 start, we'll go ahead and reinstall the tail light bulb, and then install the socket for good. What you aim for is you want a nice, snug fit. We're done for the driver's side. Let's go ahead and repeat the same process over on the passenger side tail light. Now, we can go ahead and start hooking up our wires. Now, to prepare our wires on the driver's side, we're going to split our wires away from each other. We'll split all 4 wires, and we're going to tuck away the green wire, because that will not be used on the driver's side. Now, we have our yellow, our brown, and our white. Starting with our white wire for ground, we're going to take that wire and cut it in half. Using a butt connector, we'll connect those two ends together. We'll connect that to the ground wire on our new light socket. That's going to be the black wire. Next, we'll do the same thing with the brown wire. We'll cut it in half, use the butt connector to connect the two ends together, and the open end will go to the brown wire on our new socket. Now, on our yellow wire, we'll go ahead and cut it in half. I don't need to use both halves. We just need to use the one half that goes towards the front of the vehicle, to our 4-pull plug. We'll attach that yellow wire to our red wire on our new socket. All right, now, we'll go ahead and tape up all our wires, and then we'll go ahead and reinstall the tail light. Now, we'll go over to our passenger side and repeat the same process. However, we won't be using the yellow wire on that side, so we'll cut it away first and tuck it out of the way. We'll have our green, our brown, and white wires on the passenger side. Once again, we'll take our white wire, cut it in half, then reconnect the two ends with one end of the butt connector, and the other end will get the ring terminal. A ring terminal will run to some sheet metal on the inside of a car for ground. When we install our ground screw, it's a good idea to find an area where it has overlapping layers of sheet metal. We'll take our black wire from our new socket, and connect that to our white wire. Then, we'll do the same thing, brown to brown, and then our red wire on our socket will go to the green wire on the passenger side. Once our connections are made, we'll go ahead and tape up the wires. At any point in this process, it's a good idea to take a zip tie and tie up any wires and anchor them, to make sure they don't move anywhere. Then, we can go ahead and install the tail light. Okay. Now, apply power to the front and see how it works. First off, we'll go ahead and try our running light circuit. Then, we'll go ahead and try the right turn signal, and then show our left turn signal. Now, a turn signal is for the same circuit as a brake signal. Okay, looks like everything works. With that, that'll finish it for our install of part number RM-155 from Roadmaster, on our 2009 Mini Cooper. .


Customer Reviews

Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit with Bulbs - RM-155

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (209 Customer Reviews)

Use your towed car's signal lights without tapping into its wiring. This self-contained wiring kit bypasses your vehicle's electrical system, eliminating any concerns over violating the manufacturer's warranty.

by:

This was an easy installation for me and less hassle than the resistor method on the stock wiring harness. The only drawback is fishing the wire from front to back so it protected.



by:
1998 Jeep Wrangler

This product was easy to install but it took some time routing the wiring harness from the front bumper to the rear. Pick up some extra zip ties, you will need several. The lighting system is independent allowing for the use of LED bulbs. Great product.



by:

The product is working very well. The video and the instructions were very helpful.


Comments
The wiring is holding up super great
John - 02/07/2022

by:

5000 miles of trouble free towing!



by:
2013 Ford Fiesta

Found this item was wired with the brake lights for the brown wires and turn/running lights for colored wires and this fact kept me from getting this done very rapidly. Once identified, went together really nicely and actually grounded to frame for higher light output. I upgraded 3 wire into 2 wire converter with "Roadmaster Brite-lite 3 to 2 Wiring Converter" and they are as bright as the lights already in the housing. Except for that wiring issue, it would have been excellent. As to performance after install, great. Customer service was nice from Roadmaster as well. Did receive a call back message from etrailer a couple days later.


Comments
Continues to work as it should! Very pleased with end product after installation by myself and continue to be happy every time I hook up since! Nice item! And customer service...Well they checked back with me a year later to see if I needed anything. How is that for the best customer service around! A
robertbenita - 06/30/2014

by:
2002 Toyota Tacoma

Nice to not have to splice into vehicle wiring harness. Separate bulb assembly in existing tail light housing works great for towing our "TOAD" behind motor home.


Comments
Still works great after a year of towing to many destinations.
Kevin M - 09/02/2020

by:
2010 Jeep JK

Great idea. After years of towing with magnetic lights now all I have to do is plug it in, and I'm done.
The kit kit comes with more parts and wire than I needed and was simple to install on my 2010 JK.


Comments
Thanks Patrick. It works so well I forgot I had it.
Frank S - 06/27/2014

by:

Easy install,works great



by:

This kit really simplifies wiring tail lights on a vehicle that will be towed. No cutting into the vehicle's wiring and adding isolation diodes. Very functional and easy to install.


Comments
The parts are working perfectly. Thank you.
Kim P - 01/26/2016


by:
2019 Chevrolet Equinox

I ordered a Bulb and Socket kit for my 2019 Chevy Equinox. I’m getting ready to install it this weekend. I am disappointed in a couple of things so far. The kit was clearly a return from another customer. The packaging was cut open and taped closed, and the inside bag of small parts was also cut open and stapled. I don’t know if something was defective. So that is concerning.

Also odd is that the online instructions refer to using “the self-tapping screw” for a ground, but it’s not included. Had I known, I could have ordered it with the baseplate and kit, but too late now. Why not include it?

The online instructions and video depict and give instructions for wiring the harness to the 6way plug, again, not included. This kit included some rather flimsy flat 4way plugs on the wiring harness. I will need to cut those off and order a 6 way receptacle. Again, had I known ... since shipping is included only with orders of $100, not excited to find I need small extra parts, that I now have to get elsewhere, and quickly.

So hopefully the install will go well. I like the videos.



by:

The overall concept is a great idea. No splicing into the vehicle and makes for a cleaner look instead of magnetic lights or possibly damaging the vehicle's electrical system. Now for the issues. The kit needs to be reworked to add additional footage of wire and to ensure the self tapping screw is included. I followed the video instructions to a tee and had to purchase additional wire adding to my precious time and cost. We see great ideas and then get inconveniences during the install which is unacceptable! With that I had to get additional butt connectors to add the additional wire. The self tapping screw was missing and of course did not realize until I was ready for it. The video instructional needs to add additional alerts for drilling into the taillights- the tolerances are very tight - I drilled into the same exact spot as the video shows but when I inserted the factory bulb it was making contact with the bulb from the kit. You need a more detailed and measured way to the exact spot that has to be drilled. I hope this will not affect the bulbs performance or stability. The idea of "fishing" the lines thru are terrible. You have to remember we are diy's and don't have the fancy pit or lift. We are laying on the ground trying to squeeze underneath with a floor jack. I had to loosen the cover before the fuel tank to get the wires thru. I am not bad mouthing the product, I just want to alert other diy's to have all the parts, extra zip ties to ensure the cleanest look, extra wire and butt connectors before you start. The no splicing wire and own bulbs concept is 5 stars, the kit is 1 star and the instructional video is 2 stars. Unless this gets updated I will not recommend to others.



by:

Works great.



by:
2013 Dodge Durango

I purchased a Blue Ox base plate, Air Force One braking system, and a light kit for my 2013 Durango. I could have not asked for an easier process with selecting and ordering, also the tutorials and videos were a great help in determining what was the best system for me . Everything arrived as planned and in great condition. This is not my first time using etrailer.com and my prior experience was equally good.


Comments
After using the items I reviewed, about 6,000 miles, I am more than satisfied. The towing setup is easy to hook up and unhook and the braking system is second to none. All of the installation was completed by myself and a friend, both of us have a technical background him more than me and we found the videos of the installation extremely helpful.Thank you for following up and providing excellent products as well as support services.
Ken G - 10/23/2017


by:

Works just as expected. My installer had no problems.



by:
2004 Honda Pilot

Yet another good product/service provided by etrailer.com. Even if they are a bit more on their price I generally use etrailer.com because of their excellent service. Top notch company. This Wiring Kit went in just as advertised. Of course it took me longer than I expected but that is normal for me. I work slow but my result is always a first class install! :-)



by:

I like this product and would definitely buy it again. I like not having to splice into the vehicle wiring and install diodes, etc. It is a clean installation with good instructions. All I have to do to hook up the lights is raise the hood of the towed car and pull out the pigtail and hook it to the motorhome. It is powered by the motorhome and does not run down the battery in the towed car. Great product.


Comments
Works great! Would definitely recommend it.
Gary Y - 08/19/2017


by:
2007 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited

Good instructions. Everything need is included for 4flat connections. One bulb socket arrived with the ground (black) wire loose in the bag. The solder joint had failed. Resoldered but had to remove the other wires and rubber insert from the bulb socket to avoid melting. Not a shining example for Roadmaster.


Comments
no issues, working as expected
Joel - 08/16/2015


by:

Kit was of good quality components. I would recommend about twice a much protective wire wrap along with extra of the smaller butt connectors. Fortunitely I had what I needed on hand. I also used a larger ring terminal.


Comments
Works great. 2002 Jeep Wrangler tail lights have plenty of room for the extra tail light bulbs.
Jack M - 05/09/2020

by:

I have used the brake light wiring kit on 2 other towed vehicles. It is an easy install, does not compromise the original factory wiring and works well.


Comments
Easy install, working well 1 year later.
Robert - 11/12/2018


by:

I really didn't want to install a separate bulb kit but our Equinox light was not compatible with our motor home. I was also installing a trailer lighting harness for the Equinox at the same time and doing them together made a lot of sense. I found this kit to be easy to manage and that drilling into the rear light housings not nearly as difficult as I had imagined. I would share a picture of the result but fortunately there is nothing to see - everything fit right into the Equinox's rear lamp structure. I compared the original lights with those from the kit driven by the RV and found them to be a great match. I upgraded the kit bulbs to LEDs for greater longevity.



by:
1999 Mazda Miata

I purchased this wiring kit for use in my 1999 Mazda Miata.
I did not want to cut into the OEM wiring harness, even using the diode method to safeguard the system. I felt that the fully separate wiring harness was more to my way of thinking for getting my car ready to tow.

I did not follow the included instructions that said to run the flat 4 wiring beneath the car, zip tying it along the way free of the exhaust and moving parts. I ran it through the firewall, beneath the dash, under the center console, and under the carpeting back into the trunk area. I then installed the bulb holders as instructed in my OEM Miata taillight fixtures.
I am happy to have all the wiring up and out of the way of potential road hazard damage, as well as the hot and/or moving parts beneath the car.

It works perfectly, and I am glad that I purchased this kit, and also that I decided to install it the way I felt best to do so.
It took much longer my way, but I'll never have to mess with it again.



by:

Video was great help although it missed access cover rear passenger side which had to be removed to finish installing rm-155 wiring. Couldn’t DYI without the video though



by:
1995 Jeep Wrangler

I order Blue ox base plate bracket kit BX 88230 and light kit RM-155 for my 1995 jeep so I can tow it with my motor home price was great shipping was
Quick . They were easy to install and made of good quality .The kits had
great instructions I am very happy with purchase William in CA.



by:
2011 Jeep Wrangler

Great way to install tow lights on a jeep wrangler.



by:
Jeep Grand Cherokee

Bulb kit included everything needed.
Plenty
of wire sent.
Did not use supplied 4 wire connectors, used HM47056 for toad to motor home connection. Ran wires inside cab along with Invisibrake lines.

Fast delivery.
Good price.
2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited. Jeep had available spot to place bulbs in rear tail light lens at lower portion. Easy install once wires were run.


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