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Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit Installation - 2017 Chevrolet Spark

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How to Install the Roadmaster Tail Light Wiring Kit on a 2017 Chevrolet Spark

Speaker 1: Today on our 2017 Chevrolet Spark, we're going to take a look at and show you how to install the Roadmaster taillight wiring kit with bulbs for towed vehicles. Part number is RM-155.Now the RM-155 kit's going to allow us to have a bulb style light in our existing housing without having to modify our vehicle's wiring at all. It's important to have these lights on the back of your vehicle especially when flat towing like this. So all of your signals will be seen by any motorist behind you and you can remain safe. Now I'd like the option of doing this over some of the other styles like the magnet lights. Those are just going to kind of stick on the top of the car and they do have their issues sometimes with functionality.The other option you would have to the incandescent style bulb we have here on the 155 kit.

Would be RM-152-LED. The only difference really there being, is that you would have an LED bulb lighting source rather than incandescent, which we have here.Now to save yourself a lot of time, part of your installation of this wiring should happen while you still have the fascia off the vehicle. We want the four pole with the three exposed ends to be out here accessible, so we can plug everything into the coach. So we're going to extend the length of that wiring off. We're going to route it down in behind the fascia, so it's going to come out.

Now the excess that we have,, typically this is just going to run to the back of the vehicle. But with our braking system, we need to tie in to several of these wires, the right and turn signal and the ground. So we're going to route it up here, so it'll be accessible so we can do that.Let it hang out there. Then right between the radiator hose and this piece of steel here behind the washer fluid reservoir. You can see we can be able to come out right around there.

We can go back in and down. Pull it right on through. Now part of this is going to be visible behind the fascia. So I like to do a good job of taping this up with some electrical tape. Just so we don't have multicolored wires back there, indicating we've added something to the vehicle.Notice we've removed our four pole.

The reason for that is we're adding a fifth wire. This is going to be a charge line kit. Now we strongly recommend that you have a charge line kit added to yours as well. Part number is RM-156-25. This is just going to give us a trickle charge going to our battery from our towed vehicle. It's going to prevent battery run down. Our other signals are going to be the same. The wiring kit we're going to use it's going to be a six pole round. You can see nice cover there. Seals around there, prevents dust and moisture from getting in. Part number is BX88206.Now the six pole plug is going to fit on the front side of the vehicle. That's going to allow the flexocoil to be plugged into the back side of our RV and into the front of our vehicle. And send through the signals, the ground and the charge line that we need to keep everything operating properly while towing.To install it, you'll want to take the boot off of the back and slide it over all of your wires. Just stick it up in there and get it out of the way for now. Next we'll go through and strip back all five of the wires we're going to be using. Now the flat part of course is going to be the top of the plug. So if we come back from the top, use that one right on top to start with. That's marked TM, that's for our trailer marker. We use a small Phillips to release the set screw. Now place that in. And then thread that back in. We're not going to over tighten it, but we do want it to be snug. Going counterclockwise from that the next ones our white wire for our ground. We'll have our LT for left turn. It's going to be our yellow wire.Now for the charge line kit, we're going to be using the center terminal here. This is our auxiliary. So we get that one put in now before we cover it up. And the last one going again counterclockwise is going to be the green one for right turn. The sixth one that we have open, if you have a monitor light that needs to be ran to the RV. You could use that, which would be the brake controller signal on your seven way.Now I'm going to tape it up just a little bit more. Just so my tape extends past the end of the boot there. We can get it secured off. Now one top I really strongly recommend, is once you've confirmed everything's working. Pull this boot back and fill all around these posts with silicone. Then slide your boot down over and back fill here with silicone. That's going to prevent any moisture from getting in there causing corrosion. Just want to line the two holes with the two tabs that come off on our base plate. And we'll get it secured with the provided self tapping screws.Now that we've go tour wire ran on the front, we've got our fascia back on. The next step I like to do is pull my taillight housings and get my bulbs in place. For this application, we've just got two screws. You can see one here, one here. You'll just need to Phillips bit. You want to get those removed. Then if we reach right up here at the top corner, we want to pull straight out on the light housing. Just like that. On the back side we can see place where three bulbs go in. We want to turn these counter clockwise and then pull out, so we can remove those. We'll just do that same thing for our passenger side as well.Now to install our bulb into our light housing, we're going to need to drill a one inch hole. You can see that's going to allow this to fit right down in there. That'll give us the signals we need while towing. What I'm going to do is go from this back edge here about an inch and 3/4 in. I'm going to come in about 7/8 of an inch and we'll make a mark. Now as I drill this out, I'm going to use a shop vac. And I'm going to put it right over the hole where our bulb goes in. That's going to help draw out any plastic. It's almost inevitable. You're going to have a few pieces of plastic inside of there. But by doing this, you can help alleviate some of that.Now we're going to test fit our bulb here. See we've got little fingers here and we can bend those out slightly. If the fits a little bit, just kind of bend these out just a little bit so it gets a good secure grab when we slide it in there. You can see that's what we're looking for. That's a nice secure fit. Now let's back that out of there.Now we're going to use a little black silicone sealant. I'm going to go all the way around there, put my bulb in and then seal around top. Now this is just some gasket maker that we've got, part number LT37467. You can see we've got that sealed up all the way around. Now you want to let that sit and give that silicone some time to dry. That way it'll hold it in place really well for us. While we're doing that, we can take care of the other side. We're going to do it just the same way.Now while we're waiting for our sealant to set up, it's a good time to start running our wire towards the rear of the vehicle. Now with the braking system that we are using on this application, we need to leave a loop up here. So we can connect the braking system to the wiring. If your application doesn't call for that, you won't really need to worry about that. But we want to run this safely to the rear of the vehicle. We need to avoid moving parts, heat sources, and sharp edges. Anything that might cause damage to the wire, we want to stat away from.We're going to run right underneath the battery box here. And we'll go underneath and start getting some zip ties put in place to hold it up and out of the way. Now once we come underneath our battery box. We're able to zip tie it off right here. We want to go straight back to our firewall. So you get here, we're going to zip tie off to the brake line. Then we'll follow right across the firewall with our brake line. We're going to follow that all the way to the rear of the vehicle.Once we get back behind the EVAC canister, we'll just run right over top of that. We can pick up the fuel filler neck here. That'll get us back to the corner of the car. Once we get here, we're going to run our wires right up in between the body of the vehicle and the rear fascia. So it'll come out at the opening where we removed our taillight.Once we have our wiring out, we're going to start kind of separating it. Now the green wire is going to act as our turn and brake signal for the passenger side. So we want to be sure we strip that one back. It's going to stay over here. The yellow wire needs to go to the driver's side of the vehicle. That's going to be turn and brake for that side. So I'm also going to strip my yellow wire off. You can just pull them apart as you see it's just a little film that holds them together. And that yellow wire, we're going to direct that right back down where it just came from. And then while we hold our wire, we'll just continue pulling on that to strip it on down to the bottom of the car there.And we'll start with our green wire. We want to pull up so we have plenty of slack. Then we're going to snip that off. We need to get it stripped back. Now to that you can either add one of the butt connectors provided with the kit. Or I like to do a little upgrade here and go to a heat shrink butt connector. This is just going to prevent any moisture or corrosion from getting in the connector and causing problems. Part number here is DW05744. We'll crimp that on. That'll be ready to connect to our wiring.Going to do the same thing with our white and our brown wire. We can leave these together. It's just going to make it a little bit easier to run over to the other side. For now we'll create out jumper by cutting it. Just separate both of them just a little bit here. Now we'll strip those back. We'll twist those two browns together. And here again you can either use the butt connector in your kit or an upgrade again a heat shrink. This is part number DW05745. Place both those in there. Get it crimped down. We'll do the same thing with our white wires.Now this gives us our three connection points when we put our bulb in. We've got our running light, our ground, our turn, and brake. Now the extra white and brown that we added on, this needs to run over to the driver's side with our yellow wire. So let's push it down in. Now our yellow, brown and white wires, we're just going to run over to the driver's side. We'll go right in behind the bumper cover here. And we'll run those up the same way. So we have them coming out of the driver's side taillight housing hole.Once we get our wires ran in where we want them on both sides. I'm going to use a zip tie and I'm going to zip tie our new wiring off to the factory wiring. That's just going to keep it from ever sagging down below the vehicle or anything like that. Going to trim off our excess on these. We're going to strip these back and add either a blue standard that came with the kit or a blue heat shrink butt connector to each one.Now here on our driver's side, for our yellow wire and our brown wire, we're just going to put on a standard blue butt connector, just like that. For the white wire, we'll take that little piece that we've cut off. We're going to add the ring terminal that's provided to it. We're going to get the two of these crimped together. Again we're going to use one of the yellow butt connectors here. You can use the standard provided or a heat shrink. Crimp that down, then I like to just zip tie this up and out of the way. Now we're going to use a self tapping screw and start our hole. And we'll secure our ring terminal. Now you want that to be secure enough if you try to wiggle it, it won't move.Now we're ready to connect the wires from our taillight housing where we've got the bulb installed to your connectors here. The brown wire needs to go to the brown coming from the front of the vehicle. The red wire it's going to go to the yellow or on the passenger side it would be green. And our black wire, that's going to go to the white wire or our ground. Now since we are running a smaller wire into a large butt connector. Be a good idea to strip that back about twice as far as normal. And we'll twist it and fold it over in half. That'll give it more to hang on to.Now you can use a heat gun, mini torch or a lighter. And we'll shrink our connectors down. You just want to do a little bit of heat at a time. You don't want to over heat them. You'll see them start to shrink. And when they're fully shrank down around the wire, it looks like the wire magnifies. See how that looks like it gets bigger. And there's just a little clear gel that comes out of the end there. You'll want to do that for all your connectors.With those shrank down, we'll start adding our bulbs back into the back of our housing here. The yellow and gray goes to the middle. The blue and gray, it's going to go down at the bottom. And then the red and black we want that at the top. We just want to align our tabs. Push our housing back in place. And then we'll secure it with out screws. Now we'll do the exact same thing here. Black goes to white. Brown goes to brown. But this time red will go to green. Then all of our factory lights will be in the same location.Now to test out your wiring installation. You'll want to install your pigtail that's going to go between your coach and the front of your vehicle. Now on our towing vehicle we'll turn on our running lights, our left turn signal, our right turn signal, and our brakes. Now with everything working properly, that's going to complete our installation of the Roadmaster taillight wiring kit with bulbs for towed vehicles. Part number is RM-155 on our 2017 Chevrolet Spark.

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