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Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal

Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal

Item # BK3-310

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal Bearing LM67048 and 25580 BK3-310
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  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • Bearing Kits
  • 5200 lbs Axle
  • etrailer
  • Bearing LM67048 and 25580
  • Race 25520 and LM67010
Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal part number BK3-310 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.


  • All Info
  • Reviews (40)
  • Q & A (28)
  • Videos (2)
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  • Why etrailer?

etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BK3-310


Features:

Kit Includes:

  • One Inner Bearing and Race
  • One Outer Bearing and Race
  • Grease Seal
  • Cotter Pin
  • EZ Lube spindle washer


Outer Bearing
Inner Bearing
Seal
Seal I.D.
LM67048
25580
GS-2125DL
2.125"


BK3-310 Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, 10-10 GS-2125DL Seal





This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1026LS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1028FKS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1030FK

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1030FKS

2000 - 2000 CrossRoads Prep Travel Trailer 1032FKS

2018 - 2019 Heartland RV Fuel TT Toy Hauler 250

2002 - 2002 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS Fifth Wheel 26.5RL

2004 - 2004 NuWa Snowbird LS Fifth Wheel 26.5RL

2015 - 2015 Forest River Wildcat Fifth Wheel 262RLS

2001 - 2001 NuWa Hitchhiker II S Fifth Wheel 27.5RK

2013 - 2013 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 275ULSBS

2017 - 2017 Forest River Wildcat Fifth Wheel 27RL

2002 - 2002 NuWa Snowbird LS Fifth Wheel 28.5RKBG

2002 - 2002 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS Fifth Wheel 28.5RKTG

2014 - 2014 Forest River Wildcat eXtraLite Fifth Wheel 282RKX

2017 - 2017 Forest River Wildcat Fifth Wheel 28SGX

2001 - 2001 NuWa Hitchhiker II S Fifth Wheel 29.5RK

2001 - 2001 NuWa Hitchhiker II S Fifth Wheel 29.5RL

2002 - 2002 NuWa Hitchhiker II LS Fifth Wheel 29.5RLBG

2016 - 2016 Cruiser RV Stryker TT Toy Hauler 2912

2009 - 2009 Forest River Sandpiper Travel Trailer 291RE

2009 - 2009 Forest River Sierra Travel Trailer 291RE

2013 - 2013 Keystone Laredo Fifth Wheel 292RL

2009 - 2010 Forest River Sandpiper Travel Trailer 292RL

2009 - 2010 Forest River Sierra Travel Trailer 292RL

2012 - 2012 Forest River Wildcat eXtraLite Fifth Wheel 293REX

2019 - 2019 Keystone Sprinter Campfire Fifth Wheel 29FWRL

2017 - 2017 Forest River Wildcat Fifth Wheel 29RKP

2017 - 2017 Forest River Black Diamond Fifth Wheel 29RLW

2016 - 2017 Forest River Wildcat Fifth Wheel 29RLX

See All Vehicle Fits


Video of Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Kit, LM67048/25580 Bearings, GS-2125DL Seal - BK3-310

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (40 Customer Reviews)


- BK3-310
by:

Excellent service and product delivered quickly. I would highly recommend this company and saleswoman Pat was efficient knowledgeable and professional. 419275



- BK3-310
by:

Seems to be a good quality kit but hasn't been installed as yet because this was just a spare set. 428178



- BK3-310
by:

Axle parts arrived on time and kits were individually packaged. Description provided on the website was accurate and adequate to identify the right set based upon measurements taken on the old bearings, races, and seal. 510223



- BK3-310
by:

Everything looks good. Good communication, making sure is ok. Will be purchasing here when I need parts. 484910



- BK3-310
by:

I haven't had the chance to install the bearings yet but the packaging was terrible. I ordered 4 sets and they were all stuffed into one big plastic bad that was ripped open and the parts were all over the inside of the delivery box. I don't think it should have been that hard to put each set inside its own packaging. 180829



- BK3-310
by:

Fit perfectly. Runs smooth. 408632


Comments

The bearings have held up well. I only use the trailer when I go boating so not many miles on it. Have not opened up the wheels since I installed so am only assuming they are still in good shape.

Rich - 07/23/2018

41352

- BK3-310
by:

re- trailer bearing kits lm67048 / 25580 10-10 seal-BK3-310 don't care for china products but it is what it is. my problem is solved. only took 3 days on shipping with uspo . thanks for the USPO shipping option . not in the mood to pay UPS or fed x. BIG shout out to Cathy . Wonderful sales woman .could talk to her all day long 66597



- BK3-310
by:

I bought two trailer bearing sets after one seized up on my utility trailer. I depend on this trailer for hauling wood, four wheelers, and snow machines in Nome, Alaska. I need it and it has to work. To be honest, I have limited knowledge of bearing replacement but I did have a set of calipers, and that really helped the process of replacement bearing set selection. I really appreciate the way etrailer puts all the specifications on the items so you know what product you are getting. Being closer to Russia then the contiguous United States in Nome, I can't afford the time, or money to get the wrong parts. Replacement was easy, and the trailer is working fine. Thanks etrailer and I look forward to doing business with you again. 115082



- BK3-310
by:

Hello, I have over the years replaced a lot of bearings both for trailers and cars. Except for yours, all bearings come greased and the bearing and race are wrapped and in own box. The seal is also in its own box wrapped. I received the bearings dry and everything in the same bag which means they have been banged against each other and have been knicked. Although this may not cause a problem the potential for shortened life expectentcy could result. 17907



- BK3-310
by:

Excellent Company. Always on time with the correct products. 654661



- BK3-310
by:

Super happy thank you for super fast sh ipping. 584576



- BK3-310
by:

Great I'm gonna be buying another pair soon for the back tires thanks. 526954



- BK3-310
by:

Excellent product, fit better than the "new" bearings and races I previously installed. 514890



- BK3-310
by:

Exactly the products then i want and i am verry satisfied. 477977



- BK3-310
by:

thank you for having salesman with the knowledge and manners they have will do business again 452287



- BK3-310
by:

Was not able to us product, didn't order the right one. Will reorder. Need papers send back product. 433534



- BK3-310
by:

Looks to be exact replacement, I now will install. 403081



- BK3-310
by:

These fit my application like a glove !!! Way easier than piecing together all the parts separately!! Hardest part of the install was re-starting the brake line fitting because it fit so perfectly to my application !! 369584



- BK3-310
by:

Product arrived quickly, looks like good quality, good packaging. The price was about 50% of what we were quoted by a local parts supplier. We have not installed the bearings yet. 325499



- BK3-310
by:

Derek, thanks so much for the awesome service you provided to me. I am very satisfied with the quick delivery of my order, as well as the quality of products. I am a happy customer! 293872



- BK3-310
by:

The bearing kits ordered were complete, good quality and delivered on time thanks 276995



- BK3-310
by:

parts received and what I wanted. Ordered two seals one 2.125 and one 2.250 as I didn't know right size when I placed order. items got here quickly and just what I asked for I've ordered from etrailer before. great company to do business with. Mel 239737



- BK3-310
by:

As always, fast shipping. And great pro ducts 225078



- BK3-310
by:

Great price 220341



- BK3-310
by:

Qaulity seems to be good. Price was great!!! Shipping was fast. I was having a lot of trouble even finding the parts in all my local parts stores and they would have to order them with a price more than 4 times as much as Etrailer. They got my bisiness for all my boat trailer needs. 219950



- BK3-310
by:

Great price for these bearings. 218343



- BK3-310
by:

Made in China, the set of these that I replaced had pretty bad pitting on the races. Only about 4 years old on a seldom used boat trailed. Plenty of grease but still pitted and noisy 213258



- BK3-310
by:

Great product at a great price and a perfect fit! Highly recommended! 207518



- BK3-310
by:

Excellent service parts as described 204606



- BK3-310
by:

Fast shipping and bearings fit perfectly. Competive pricing as well. 201045



- BK3-310
by:

Very satisfied with the product, shipping, and contact from etrailer. Their website and ordering process is very user-friendly. 186089



- BK3-310
by:

Delivery was very timely...Packaging was fair to poor.. Must have run out of zip lock bags, 3 complete sets of bearings and seals all in 1 bag :( 166493



- BK3-310
by:

Arrived quickly and in great shape. Great prices and great service. 139893



- BK3-310
by:

I am completely happy with the product I bought and received it arrived fast and was exactly what I needed to my project what I am not happy about was the way they were packed they were loosely thrown in a box to rattle around and damage one another.Don't know about you but 80 dollars is a lot of money for me. 99664



- BK3-310
by:

Thank you for your prompt service and excellent product I will be ordering with you again soon Sincerely Carl in Virginia 94311



- BK3-310
by:

Only time will provide the answer for the quality of these bearings. They went in correctly and are working great so far. 83362



- BK3-310
by:

I had a lot of trouble figuring out exactly what I was in need of and found all the help a person could ask for after that was done everything came in fine shape thanks much Garry 77157



- BK3-310
by:

This product is working great. It is helpful that company put together as a set. I don't have to search for matching parts. 53131



- BK3-310
by:

Great service. I am putting an order together for you right now. 18915



- BK3-310
by:

Bearing cage not as sturdy as bearings I removed. I could not pass up the price but only needed the seals. Will let you know if they don't hold up. ps- the kit needs larger cotter pins 18296


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Ask the Experts about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Needing Wheel Bearing Kits for Lippert 5,200 Lbs Axles
  • We carry two different wheel bearing kits for 5,200 Lbs axles. The difference between the two set is in the inside diameter of the grease seals. One kit, # BK3-300, uses a grease seal the measures 2-1/4 inches I.D. The other kit, # BK3-310, has a seal the measures 2-1/8 inches I.D. You will need to measure your current seals to see which kit will work for your application. Both kits will include bearings, seal, and race cups. One kit per wheel. I also recommend LubriMatic Bearing...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 2017 Trailer with Dexter 5200 lb Axles
  • For your 2017 trailer with Dexter 5200 lbs axles, there are two possible options for replacement bearing kits. Both kits, the # BK3-300 mentioned in your question and the # BK3-310, include an LM67048 outer bearing and 25580 inner bearing which match the hub and drum assemblies for your Dexter axle. The difference between the two kits is the inner diameter of the included grease seals. The more likely fit for your trailer may be the # BK3-310 which has a smaller seal inner diameter...
    view full answer...

  • Difference Between Grease Seal GS-2125DL and Seal 22558
  • The two seals you mentioned have different inner diameters. The part # GS-2125DL has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and the part number 22558 has same dimensions as # RG06-070 which has inner diameter of 2.25inch. Both have same outer diameter of 3.371 inch.
    view full answer...

  • Recommended Replacement Wheel Bearings On An Airstream Trailer
  • Yes, the Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing, # 25580, is the replacement for the Airstream trailer bearing 4T-25580. It has an inner diameter of 1.750 inches and has the same outer diameter as well. If the (back)INNER bearing is the 4T-25580, then there are 3 different common outer bearing combinations. If you have a 6,000 lb axle, the outer bearing will be # 15123 and grease seal # RG06-070 will be needed as well. The bearing kit that includes these 3 parts is # BK3-100. If you...
    view full answer...

  • How to Select Replacement Brake & Hub/Drum Assemblies for 5200-lb Lippert Axles
  • We can help you with replacement drum brakes, hub/drums and related items like bearings and seals for your 5200-lb-rated Lippert axles. Brakes for your axle are the 12 x 2-inch size. We have both electric and hydraulic drums brakes assemblies for 5200-lb axles shown on the linked page. Just click on the type you need. Be sure to note the brake mounting bolt pattern to ensure it matches your flanges and also be sure to choose either a left/right kit for each axle or individual left- and...
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  • Recommendation For Hub And Drum With Outer Bearing LM67048
  • Based on your information, it sounds like you have either a 4,400-lb or 5,200-lb trailer axle. Both can have an outer bearing like Item # LM67048 but the inner bearing and hubs will be different. For a 4,400-lb axle, the inner bearing will be like Item # L68149 and for a 5,200-lb axle it will be like Item # 25580. I do not know the bolt pattern of your wheels but the most common pattern is 6 on 5-1/2. I have also attached an article on "how to measure bolt patterns" in case you need...
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  • Bearings and Seal for Replacing UFP Dexter 41062 Hub with Kodiak Hub and Rotor
  • I spoke with my contact at UFP Dexter and he said that your 41062 hub uses inner bearing 031-030-02, outer bearing 031-032-02, and seal 010-181-00. This is the equivalent of inner bearing # 25580, outer bearing # LM67048, and grease seal # GS-2125DL which can all be found in the bearing kit # BK3-310 along with the races for the bearings. Unfortunately the bearing kit # DBRKHW85G that you purchased isn't the same as the grease seal has a slightly larger diameter but that can easily be fixed....
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  • Recommendation on Brake Assemblies to Fit a Horse Trailer with 5,500 Lbs Axles
  • I have found a set of brakes assemblies that will fit your trailer. I recommend the Electric Trailer Brake Kit Self-Adjusting Assemblies, # AKEBRK-7-SA. These brake assemblies are packaged to fit on axle rated at 5.2K to 7K. These assemblies are very similar to the set that you referenced, but these are self-adjusting brake assemblies. These brake will only need an initial adjustment during installation and after that they will self-adjust under normal use. I also recommend Bearing...
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  • Which Grease Seal for 5th Wheel Camper with Lippert 5200 lb Axle
  • Assuming that your hubs use the LM67048 outer and 25580 inner bearings, you will need the # BK3-300 which uses the 10-36 double lip grease seal with a 2.25 inch inside diameter. The BK3-310 uses a seal with a 2.125 inch inside diameter, which would not be compatible with your spindle. If you wish, you can confirm this by using a digital caliper like # PTW80157 to measure the diameter of the spindle surface where the spindle rides, as shown in the diagram.
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  • Lippert 5200lb Axle Hub Grease Seal Recommendation
  • Lippert 5,200 lb axles use the grease seal part # GS-2125DL. For a kit that would include new bearings as well you'd want # BK3-310.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit for 2011 Keystone Copper Canyon Fifth Wheel Series M-273 FWRET
  • Traveling with an extra set of wheel bearings (and bearing grease # L11380 and a packing tool # ALL647646) is not a bad idea at all, especially with a new-to-you trailer whose maintenance history may be unknown. Trailer makers don't maintain specs on smaller items like bearings used in their hubs so all you'll need to do is pull one hub and remove its bearings and seal to note their part numbers. We have both complete bearing kits that include popular bearings, races and seals, as well...
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  • Measuring Spindle to Determine Correct Grease Seal for 1970 Airstream Safari
  • We do not have a way to look up the exact bearings used in the hubs on your 1970 Airstream Safari but based on this single-axle trailer's weight of around 3800-lbs odds are it has either a 4400-lb axle or a 5200-lb axle. We do know the bearings used most often in axles of these capacities. The article I linked will illustrate. A 4400-lb axle usually uses inner bearing # L68149, outer bearing # LM67048 and seal # 58846. We offer these items individually. A 5200-lb axle typically uses...
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  • Grease Seal Inner Diameter is 1/8 of an Inch Too Small
  • My guess is you have the incorrect bearing kit. Kit # BK3-300 with Seal 10-36 # RG06-070 and Kit # BK3-310 with Seal # GS-2125DL have the same bearing numbers but the seals have different inner diameters. Seal # GS-2125DL has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches and Seal 10-36 # RG06-070 has an inner diameter of 2.250 inches. A difference of exactly 1/8 of an inch. If this is the case the solution is to get # GS-2125DL seals.
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  • Trailer Bearing Kit Recommendation with Bearings 25580 LM67048 and Seal GS-2125DL
  • The bearing kit you are looking for is the part # BK3-310. This includes the bearings and seals you mentioned so it would be exactly what you need.
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  • What Grease Seal Will Fit With Bearing # LM67048
  • The bearing you referenced, part # LM67048, we show as an OUTER bearing for applications in hub # 8-201-5. We offer this bearing as part of a kit along with inner bearing # 25580 and seal # GS-2125DL; the part number for the complete kit is # BK3-310. This included GS-2125DL seal has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches; if you can measure your spindle with a digital caliper you can verify the fit. The linked photo will show you where to measure.
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendation for LM67048/25580 Bearing and a CR22558 Seal
  • Actually the bearing kit you will want is the Bearing kit part # BK3-300. This comes wit a seal that is the same dimensions as your CR 25558. The information I have is that the C/R 22558 seal has an inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.371 inches. The Grease Seals 10-36, item # RG06-070, have a inner diameter of 2.25 inches and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. The 10-36 is the seal that comes with the # BK3-300.
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  • Bearing & Seal Kit for 2003 Keystone 315RLS with 5200-lb AL-KO Axles
  • Trailer makers can change spindles and seals without notice. You might get lucky and be able to confirm this with Keystone by providing your VIN but this is probably a longshot. You'll need pull only the one hub from your Mountaineer 315RLS to confirm both your bearings and seals. You can refer to the linked diagram to see how these parts' numbers usually appear. If you can find a sticker on your axles that indicates their weight rating then you can refer to the article I linked which...
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  • Instructions For Grease Seal Measurements For 6k Axle
  • The best way to determine what seals would work for you is to match your existing seals based on their part number. Please refer to the photo provided that shows the typical location for the part number on both grease seals and bearings. In case you cannot locate the existing part numbers, the attached drawing also shows the places to measure on the spindle to make certain you match the seals you need. Bearings and seals can vary due to the size of the spindle on your 5200 lb axle, so...
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  • Which Bearing Kit is Needed for Dexter Axle with Bearings LM67048 and 25580
  • The Dexter axle you have most likely needs the same seal as what comes with the part # BK3-300. The included seal has an inside diameter of 2.25 inches. Some times with your axle they used a smaller seal. This kit would be the part # BK3-310. The seal of this kit has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches. Easy way to tell is to measure the spindle where the bearings ride. If you have 2.25 you need the # BK3-300 or if you have 2.125 you need # BK3-310.
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  • What Size Bearings are Kits Available For?
  • The best way to find out what kit you need is to find the bearing numbers which should be stamped on the bearing themselves. You will also need to know the grease seal, whose inner and outer diameter you will need to measure with a digital caliper to the thousandths of a decimal point. The weight capacity of your axle would be another telling point to find the correct bearing kit for you. That said, I have broken down our kits based on sizes as you requested. Bearing kit # BK1-100 is...
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  • Bearing Kit Recommendations for Trailer with 5,200 lb Axles
  • There are two possible bearing kits for your trailer's 5,200 lb axles. There's the more common part # BK3-310 and the less common part # BK3-300. The difference is the seal size. The part # BK3-300 has a seal with an inner diameter of 2.25 inch and the # BK3-310 has a seal with an inner diameter of 2.125 inch which is the more common size. I can't tell you beyond that which for sure would be correct.
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  • Bearing Kit for 5,200 lb Axle on 22 Foot Continental Cargo V-Nose Enclosed Trailer
  • For your 5,200 lb axles, we have two bearing kits available. They use the same bearings, but have different seals. The Bearing Kit # BK3-300 has a seal that has an inner diameter of 2.250 inches and outer diameter of 3.376 inches. The other Bearing Kit # BK3-310 has a seal with a 2.125 inch inner diameter and 3.376 inch outer diameter. You will need to check your current seal for printed number or measure the spindle using a caliper like # PTW80157
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  • Availability of Bearing Kit BK3-310 with Larger Inner Diameter Grease Seal
  • What you need is the part # BK3-300. The included seal with this kit has an inner diameter of 2.125 inches.
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  • 1981 Magic Tilt Trailer Bearing Kit Recommendation
  • From the info you gave me you have a number 42 spindle but you would need to measure the inner diameter of the unmarked bearing to verify this. If it measures 1.75 inches that would verify that you do have the 42 spindle. Then for a bearing kit you would need the part # BK3-300.
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  • Which EZ Lube Grease Caps for # 8-201-5 and # 426-56 Hub/Drum Assembly
  • Both the 8-201-5 and the 426-56 Hub and Drum Assemblies you mentioned would use a grease cap with a 2.44 outside diameter. The EZ Lube Grease Cap, part # RG04-080 would be the correct cap for both hub/drums. The 8-201-5 hub/drum would use the # BK3-310 bearing kit, and the 426-56 hub/drum would use the # BK3-100 bearing kit.
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  • Replacement Bearing Kit Recommendations for a 1972 Airstream Overlander
  • If you have standard size axles that you are installing the Electric Trailer Brake Kit # AKEBRK-7-SA on then you can choose from the following options: 5,200 lb Axle - Kit # BK3-310 (Grease Seal 2.125" ID) or Kit # BK3-300 (Grease Seal 2.250" ID) 6,000 lb Axle - Kit # BK3-110 (Grease Seal 2.125" ID) or Kit # BK3-100 (Grease Seal 2.250" ID) 7,200 lb Axle - Kit # BK3-210 (Grease Seal 2.125" ID) or Kit # BK3-200 (Grease Seal 2.250" ID) Since you do have an older Airstream Overlander...
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  • Replacement Trailer Bearings for Kodiak 6 Bolt Disc Brakes
  • Kodiak disc brakes that have a 6 bolt pattern all use the same bearings and races. It is kit # BK3-100. The outer bearing is # 15123. The correct size grease cap for an EZ lube axle would be # RG04-080 which is a 2.44 inch diameter. The race will have the smallest of lips for you to catch a flat screwdriver or piece of pipe on so you can knock it out of the hub. I have included a link to a video and a link to an FAQ article that should help you.
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Info for this part was:

Expert Research:
Michael H
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Updated by:
Adele M
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Photos by:
Zach O
Updated by:
Alexander C

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