Product Expert Lindsey S's Opinion
Featuring dual-cam sway control, this weight-distribution system includes an adjustable shank and flexible, powder coated steel, trunnion spring bars to create a level ride for both your trailer and your tow vehicle. Fits 2" trailer hitches.
Features:
Specs:
| Included w/ RP66084 | Required - Sold Separately | Optional Add-Ons |
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| n/a |
Note: Dual-cam sway control cannot be used with surge-type trailer brakes and is designed for Class III and Class IV hitches only. Should not be used with aluminum trailer frames.
Create a stable ride for your tow vehicle and trailer with a weight-distribution hitch. Adding spring bars to your towing system applies leverage, which transfers the load that is pushing down on the rear of your vehicle to all the axles on both your tow vehicle and your trailer, resulting in an even distribution of weight throughout. The result is a smooth, level ride, as well as the ability to tow the maximum capacity of your hitch.
The tongue weight rating is the most important factor in determining which size weight-distribution system you should use. If the bars of the system you choose are rated too high for your setup, they will create a rigid ride, which can result in a bouncing trailer. If, on the other hand, the bars are not rated high enough, the system will be unable to properly distribute the weight, rendering it virtually useless.
To determine the proper weight rating for a weight-distribution system, you must first determine your trailer's tongue weight. Then add to that the weight of the cargo behind the rear axle of your tow vehicle. These two measurements make up the tongue weight rating for a weight-distribution system.
The easy-to-use, serrated washers on the Reese Strait-Line system make adjusting the tilt of the weight-distribution head a snap. This is a huge improvement over the standard pin-and-washer method, which involves piling washers - one on top of another - onto a difficult-to-access pin. The serrated-washer system lets you easily loosen, adjust and tighten a single washer and nut on either side of the head for simple, secure positioning.
The trunnion spring bars of the Strait-Line system slide into the weight-distribution head for quick, easy installation. With a tapered design and hot rolled steel construction, these bars offer superior flex, ensuring a smooth, controlled ride for both your tow vehicle and your trailer. These specially designed bars have rounded, hooked ends, making them the only kind of spring bars that can function with Reese's active-style, dual-cam sway control.
Reese's dual-cam sway-control system stops trailer sway before it begins. This is a significant improvement over traditional friction-style controls, which help to correct sway only after it has already begun. This specially designed system uses unique sliding devices called "cams" to suspend the spring bars of your weight-distribution system. One end of a cam bolts onto your trailer's frame, and the other end attaches to the lift bracket via the lift chain. The rounded, hooked ends of the spring bars then sit in these cams. The controlled placement of the spring bars keeps your system secure while still allowing enough movement for free, easy interaction between your trailer and your tow vehicle.
During basic, straight-line towing, the cams lock in place and hold the trailer steady by applying constant, consistent pressure to both sides. This keeps the trailer from swaying in crosswinds. When you go into a turn, the cams unlock and slide to allow a controlled, full-radius maneuver. If you swerve suddenly, the cams will give to accommodate the movement while still working to obtain a straight angle, thereby maintaining control of the trailer.
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Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.
Speaker 1: Today we're gonna be taking a look at the Reese line of Strait-Line weight distribution systems with sway control. This is what our kit's gonna look like installed. As you can see, we've got our head here fully active weight distribution system, but also active sway control, so if you're in the first group of customers, you don't have a weight distribution system at all right now. You've got a lot of squat on the back of your truck and the front of your trailer. The rear suspension's doing a lot of extra work, and the front axle on your trailer's gonna be doing a lot of extra work. With these bars being fixed mounted to our head, as we draw those up it's just like lifting up the back of a wheelbarrow.
As you lift up the back of a wheelbarrow, that weight transfers forward. That also is reflected in our trailer. The weight's gonna be transferred back, so we're gonna evenly distribute the amount of work over the two axles on our truck and the two axles on our trailer. That's gonna make components last a lot longer.If you already have a weight distribution setup or if you don't, this applies to both categories. We have now added an active sway control system rather than the passive system that just bolts on here and bolts on here.
That does nothing if sway hadn't started occurring. That only works after sway starts, and it's just there to dampen the effect. With an active system like this since our trunnion bars are sitting on our cams, this is working at all times to prevent sway from ever starting. There could be big crosswinds, 18 wheelers passing us, any number of things can cause a trailer to begin swaying, but this from the instant it starts is gonna be fighting to return it to center. This can also be an extremely helpful situation, that active sway control, in evasive maneuvers.
Let's say you have to jump over a lane really quickly. When you turn your truck, the weight of the trailer wants to continue forward with the standard weight distribution setup. With an active sway control system rather than a standard weight distribution with the friction style, it actually pulls the front end of that trailer toward your truck. It makes it easier for the trailer to follow your truck rather than go in its own direction, which is really important especially if you have to do those evasive maneuver type situations.This Strait-Line kit from Reese isn't just available for your really big trailers or the really small trailers. They have a wide variety of tongue weight and trailer weight applications, and it's important that you know what you need.
It's important that you know what kind of tongue weight your trailer has and what the gross trailer weight rating is because matching your weight distribution system to that is gonna give you the optimal ride quality. If your trunnion bars are too stiff, then the ride quality in your truck's gonna suck. It's still gonna distribute the weight, it's gonna be nice there, but the ride quality is gonna be drastically diminished. If your trunnion bars are too light, if they're not gonna work for your application there, well you're not gonna get the weight distributing effect that we need. You'll probably still have sag in the rear of the truck. Front of the trailer's probably still gonna be down, so check it out, know the numbers, and purchase the system that's gonna fit into those numbers to give you exactly what you need.A lot of times it's gonna say 600, 800, 1,000, 1,200 lbs worth of tongue weight. If you're at 900 lbs worth of tongue weight, let's say, you probably wanna go to the 1,000 lb bars. If you're at 750, you probably wanna go up to the 800, but having a 1,000 lbs worth of tongue weight, we don't need a set of 1,500 lb tongue weight bars. It's just gonna diminish the quality, and you're not gonna enjoy the ride.This would be just a chain connected to our trunnion bar here. That'd be a traditional weight distribution setup. Once we add on our bracket here, you're gonna have an arm that comes down to a cam, then we've got our cam bracket here, that's gonna go over it. Now, as we turn or if sway happens to start, let's say we're making a right hand turn, this bar is gonna be forced up and over that cam, and it's gonna come up this direction a little bit. As it does, it's trying to fight back because on the opposite side, we've got the opposite effect. On that side, this came up our cam a little bit, so that's pulling back, pulling back, trying to get everything straightened back out.The Strait-Line kit's gonna give us superior construction when compared to kits. All of the components you see here that are black, they're, of course, just of base steel. They've got an e-coat on them, then a powder coat that's gonna go on top. That's gonna give you really good durability and also corrosion resistance. Anything that we see that is silver in color or like our bolts here that are gold, those are gonna be zinc coated. The silver's gonna be white, and this is a yellow zinc coating. That allows us to also resist that corrosion. We're not gonna have issues with everything getting rusted up and deteriorating rapidly.The shank's also gonna fit a wide variety of heights of vehicle. This can be flipped into a low position or a rise position like we have it here. We'll show you why that's important once we get to the installation.I like this type of sway control system compared to the other ones out there because of, basically, the way it connects to our frame here. As you can see, basically, we've got a bracket that's gonna fit right down along the bottom. With it being on the bottom of the trailer, that's usually gonna be more unobstructed. We're usually not gonna have a lot of stuff down here on the bottom. You can see our upper brackets here, they got real close to our propane tank holder there. The upper part of the frame always tends to have more stuff, so I like how this attaches down here on the bottom. Gonna keep it out of the way, and usually you won't have any interference issues to deal with.To properly set up our weight distribution system, we want our trailer to be sitting nice and level. We're gonna measure the coupler height right to the top. As you can see, we're gonna be just over 24" here, about 24, 24-1/4". When we set up our coupler, we want the top of our ball to be about 1/2" to 1" higher than that. Our goal is gonna be 24-3/4", 25-1/4" somewhere in that window.You will need to supply the appropriate ball mount for your application. There's gonna be pretty much three standard sizes: 1-7/8", 2", and 2-5/16". That's what we've got here, just recycling the ball off the old ball mount. The requirement for our head here is gonna be 1-1/4" shank. We've got the right size shank here. Gonna bring that through the head. This is, of course, gonna go on the top. Gonna put our lock washer on there, and then we're gonna torque this down to the specifications that are listed in our instructions.Now, we're gonna match the ball height to what we said on our coupler, about 1" to 1/2" above it. The shank will allow us to rotate from a drop to a rise, so if you have a higher truck or a lifted truck, you're probably gonna use it in the drop position. You can see we have two holes in the shank. If we have the option, we always wanna use the hole closest to the upright holes. That's gonna get our shank further in the hitch. If you do have an extended bumper or something that interferes, you can use the rearward hole. If you still don't have the clearance that you need, then you can use an extended shank. Let's try that again. Looks like that's gonna be about an inch too high, so we should be able to go down one set of holes, and that'll be our position, or at least it'll have us as close to the appropriate position as we can get it. It's okay if it's a little bit off. I would just err on it being a little bit higher than low. It's okay for that truck to squat a little bit. We can take care of most of that with the system, but instead of it being a little bit low, I'd rather it just a touch high.There you can see our bolt. We're gonna put on one of the square spacer blocks with the serrated back. We're gonna slide it through, and as we do it's going to engage the teeth that are on the side of the head there. Put one of those on both sides. You do wanna make sure that you can see the inaudible 00:08:53. You see if it's this way they're not gonna engage. That's gonna ruin the setup when we get it, so we want them to both be positioned where they're gonna grip. Place on one of our provided lock washers and nuts.If you look right here on the side of the shank and the head, there's gonna be a small gap. In some situations you'll have a gap, some you won't. But you can see they've provided a spacer here, a shim, and that very easily slides down in there. With that being the case, we're gonna place that between the shank and the head. Get that slid in. These we'll just leave loosely secured for now.To set our initial height adjustment, we need to determine which type of coupler we have. In your instructions, there's a chart that has A, B, and C as the choice of coupler. This is what they consider a C coupler. It's top mounted, and it has a 5" frame. A B style coupler would be top mounted like this, but it would have a 6" frame. An A coupler would be one that was mounted to the bottom, so it would be more level with the bottom. Like we said, in our case we've got a C coupler. Then we need to move the chart. We need to check the coupler height. There's a couple different ranges in there. I think five different ranges. You just move down your chart both directions until you get to the right number. In our case, it says we want the back of our trunnion bars to be about 9-1/2" from the ground, so let's make the proper adjustments. Try to make that happen. I think we'll need to rotate this head up just a little bit.The U portion of our bar we want facing downward. We're gonna put the bottom tab in the lower hole first, tip the top in, and then as you rotate it's gonna be captured there. We're gonna lift on our bar until it stops. I got pretty lucky there. This looks like I'm sitting about 10-1/4", so maybe we'll adjust the head down just one notch, see how that helps. We'll loosen that. We're gonna hold our ball so it doesn't move too much. Take it down a notch. Let's check it again. We're gonna be about 9-3/8" with our adjustment. That's about as close as we can get it. That's okay. We're gonna be 1/8" too low rather than too high. Again, this is just gonna help us get a little bit of additional weight distributing effect. Once we have the proper angle set for our head, we're gonna use 1-1/8" socket and wrench. We're gonna snug these bolts down and then torque them to the specifications listed in the instructions.We've got the head angle set. Before we put our trailer coupler down on the ball, we want to measure to a fixed point somewhere in side the front fender. I usually just go to the hightest point. It's the easiest to find again. We're gonna use this measurement later to determine our front angle load return, the FALR, of the system and make sure we're getting adequate pressure put back down on the front end. Right now at our highest point, we're at about 41-1/8".Now, we're gonna show you how to set the positioning of your frame brackets. You wanna take the length of chain and run a U-bolt through the very last link there. Then we're gonna loosely secure it to one of our trunnion bars. We're gonna have a flat washer and a lock nut that goes on there, but these lock nuts we only wanna run them until they stop. We're not gonna permanently attach our chain because we still have to put our chains onto the dual HP system. This is just so we can properly set up the weight distribution system before we add the sway control to it.Just like we did when we we're setting our head angle, we'll slide our trunnion bar back in. You see we had to remove the old sway control, which is fine. We're putting on a brand new, much more advanced sway control system. We're just gonna tighten down . I'll show you here, it's the square head bolt. We're tightening that down until it makes good contact with our frame, then we're gonna go 1/4 turn further. There's no need to over tighten these. That should be in position where your chain, as you can see, is as vertical as possible to the center of the bracket. You see our bracket's down. Our bolt has made contact. Again, just 1/4 of a turn. I'll do the same thing over on the driver's side.Now that we have our frame bracket set for our weight distribution setup, we're gonna use our cam brackets here on our chains. You can see we're just gonna use the same hardware we removed. The U-bolt now is gonna go through the two holes on the end there. We're gonna place a flat washer and a lock nut on each point, and now we're good to tighten these down just to a point to where we have about two threads showing outside of the nut here. We still want this to be loose and be able to move. You can use 9/16" socket for the nuts. You can see that's about good. Just a couple threads showing there. All you're gonna need. See Still allows plenty of movement there. Now we're gonna hang this from our hook just like that, and we want the thread side of our U-bolt to be facing out. We're gonna do that on both sides.We've got our brackets here, and what we're gonna do, we just wanna get these centered, so we want about the same amount of thread showing on each side of our bolts here. If you need to, you can lubricate these nuts with a light penetrating oil.Now, we need to mar the center of the ball inside of our coupler here. You wanna just look at your ball. We know it tops here. See where the base. We'll mark our center point up and down and left and right. Depending on the design of your coupler, whether it's a top mount like we have here or a bottom mount, we're gonna measure back from that center point on our frame rail to the specified measurement. This is just gonna be rough for now. You can see same style bolt here. We're gonna run this down just to where it kind of supports our bracket temporarily for us. That measurement that we have in our instructions needs to be the center of our X to the center of our bolt.Once we have our center to center where we want it, we'll run our red bolt down to where it makes good contact, and just like before, we need to go 1/4 additional turn. You wanna make sure you don't have any gap on the front or rear of that bracket from the bottom of the frame to the top of the bracket.To verify our positioning here, what we're gonna do is take the weight off of the back of the truck. We wanna lift our trailer back up, and we wanna make sure that the cam here is fitting directly inside of that hump that we have in our trunnion bar. Come straight down, then of course, eventually we'll connect our chain here, pull that up, and that'll take care of the weight distribution of the sway control at the same time. But if this isn't nestled in there perfectly, what you're gonna wanna do is move your bracket forward or back a little bit to accommodate that leaving a full section here for adjustment. You can adjust it here forward and back slightly, but if you'll move your bracket just a little bit and leave these centered, if you ever change tow vehicle, the weight distribution setup's already gonna be set up for the trailer. You'll just have to adjust these a little bit to accommodate.Once we've confirmed that this is in the right position, we're gonna drill both of our holes out here to a 9/16" diameter, and we can use the plate as our template. If you decide to, you can continue using that 9/16" bit and trying to get that hole drilled out, but I like to use more of a step bit process. We'll start with a 1/4" bit, then we can go up to 7/16", and then the end hole, the last hole that we need to drill is 11/16", so gonna keep that in mind and either drill one single hole, it might take you a little longer, or you can step up through several sizes of drill bit and do it that way.Now, we can take the two nut inserts. We're gonna place them into each of our holes. It's gonna be a snug fit, and that's a good thing. We don't want them to be loose. That's why you don't want to wallow out that hole when you drill it. Get them driven in there. We're gonna take our shorter M12 bolts, we're gonna put a lock washer on them. We're gonna start one of those in each of our inserts. Once those are snug, we'll want to torque them to the specifications in our instructions. We're gonna tighten down that set screw on the back, again, until it makes contact, and we'll another quarter turn. Now, we need to repeat that same process of steps but over on the driver's side.Now with our brackets installed and everything torqued down to specification, as you can see we've used our jack. We've lifted the tongue of our trailer up, brought the back of the truck up just slightly, place in our trunnion bar. Bring it back. Nut's facing. This will align that so we can rotate it up into position. We need at least five links down here, so we're try just starting . this would be the seventh. Bring that up and click it in position. Then we've got our pin. This pin's just gonna slide in and then rotate down. That's what's gonna hold that up and keep that from coming down. Now we're gonna do the same thing on the other side.Now, we're gonna bring our trailer back down. We want the jack to be off the ground. We're gonna check our coupler height. Remember, it's okay here to have 3/4" to 1" of squat, and then we'll check that front axle and see what kind of load return we've had there.With the weight off our jack and all the weight on the head of our weight distribution system, it's time for us to check our trailer coupler. Remember, we had it at about 24-1/4". We wanna make sure it's right back at that same area. Looks like maybe we're 1/4" high there. That's gonna be all right. Let's go check that front axle and see what kind of front axle load return that we've got. Looks like maybe we're high by about 1/16", but we've almost got 100% front axle load return. When we get that weight transferred back up to our front axles, not only are we evenly distributing the weight, but you're gonna return all those driving characteristics that we missed before. We're gonna have a return in the braking performance and the handling. Our suspension geometry's also gonna be returned back to its original configuration, so we won't have to worry about any kind of weird tire wear or anything like that. Even in some extreme situations as that front end rises, your headlight beams tend to point upward, and they don't really light the road ahead of you. In this case, bringing that back down, gonna be pointed right where we need to go, allowing us to see everything that will be coming in front of us.Once we've confirmed all of our measurements are where we want them, we wanna double check just to make sure that our cams are right in the nook of that trunnion. It should be equally spaced. If not, if it's a little bit too far forward, we're able to extend this bolt out slightly to accommodate, or maybe on the other side of it, maybe it's a little too far back. Then you wanna draw that bolt in a little bit. But again, like we said in the beginning, if you leave this in the middle it gives you a lot more adjustment room if you happen to change vehicles. We're gonna use our 1-1/2" wrench here. Wanna get this tightened down. It's especially important to crush this lock washer completely flat. You'll feel the stop point. Once you've got everything compressed, the pressure's gonna go up a little bit, and you'll know that you've got it where you want it.That's gonna complete our look at the Reese line of Strait-Line weight distribution systems with sway control.
Average Customer Rating: 4.8 out of 5 stars (231 Customer Reviews)
Featuring dual-cam sway control, this weight-distribution system includes an adjustable shank and flexible, powder coated steel, trunnion spring bars to create a level ride for both your trailer and your tow vehicle. Fits 2" trailer hitches.
Works great. Had problems with product being defective but costomer service handeld it with perfection. Couldn't be happier! 673729
Timely shipping was important to me. Every part of this transaction worked flawlessly. I was scheduled to leave on Monday and my order arrived on Friday as Judy had told me. I seldom find customer service as good as I experienced from e trailer. Thank You 186878
The product was not only a perfect physical fit for my truck and travel trailer, but it it works so well I no longer drive with white knuckles. The etrailer support team worked with me to figure out my real needs versus my preciously rookie "wants" which were somewhat uninformed wants. My Trunion Bar WD Hitch with Optional sway control makes ZERO noise in use or backing up, nor does it impart any felt knuckling. 691354
This thing works well, as advertised. It did boost the rear end of the truck up immediately and seemed to have a positive affect on sway. I was able to back up with it as advertised. The issue I had with it and what prevents me from scoring higher is despite the fact that I followed the instructions to the letter, the lower brackets are installed by drilling out holes and hammering in "blind" or knurled nuts. I was leery of their longevity and for good reason. After 1500 miles they wallowed out the holes and made one of the lower brackets loose. My solution was simply to weld the lower brackets directly to the frame and its vastly superior to the install methods they advise and works great. However since not everyone is comfortable/set up to MIG welding these on and will rely on the foolish blind nuts I can only give it 3 stars. 447030
I bought the Strait-Line Weight Distribution System w Sway Control - Trunnion Bar - 12,000 lbs GTW, 1,200 lbs TW for my 18 foot trailer used to haul just under 10,000lbs of Tractor and implements on winding Tennessee roads with my 2014 Double Cab 4.6 liter Full Bed Tundra. The product works great; I almost don't realize the trailer is there. Everything is level with no drop at the front and 1/2 to1 inch drop at the back depending on what's loaded. There is normally about a 3-4 inch drop in the back. Be aware that the box will be delivered at just over 90 pounds. The installation is not technically difficult, but you will need more tools than the instructions indicate to get everything together. The high torque bolts and as well as the 450 ft/lbs ball torque require some specific large wrenches and sockets. If you go through the instructions and pieces for the actual size of the bolts required, it will save you some running around to find tools. Invest in a step drill bit and it will save some hunting. With everything in place and ready to go, this was a solid 8 hour install with a lot of low to the ground squatting and bending which you will feel the next day. If I were older (46 now), I would have a professional install this. If you do, they will need a fully loaded trailer to finish which you will also need to finish the install. There is one piece in the instructions for installing the optional 1/2" x 1.00" SELF TAPPING SCREW into the snap up braket First, this is not really optional, but the instructions indicate to drill a 9/16" hole for this 1/2" screw which is incorrect and will cause you to not be able to tighten the screw down. The whole should be 1/2". Don't be tempted to put these in before the very last step after everything is hooked up or you will be very unhappy. The snapup brakets get moved around several times between the WD and Sway Control sections. The only negative (if it is negative) is that for my trailer height of 16", the trunnions are only 5 1/2" of the ground which can make speed bumps and the like an interesting experience as the do contact the road as the trailer wheels go over those bumps. If you are converting from a normal ball hitch off the back of the truck to this for the first time, your break away wire and safety chains will now be too short to connect to the truck (in all likely hood). You will likely need to either add to or replace those as well. All in all, the system works great, is technically easy to install with all the correct tools and sufficient time. 193724
OK, I waited to write this review until I had an opportunity to really use this product. We just completed a 950 mile camping trip around Colorado. We went up and over mountains, around curves, and traveled in the interstate. All I can say is, WOW! I wish I had purchased this years ago. We pull a 7000# travel trailer with a new F150 EcoBoost. Before installing this we were pushed around in windy canyons, semis and dealt with sway descending the mountains. This product is the real deal. I can safely travel on the interstate at speeds up to 75 MPH thanks to this product. 50034
Weight distribution can help handling and steering when properly set up. This system also has an integrated sway control system also improves handling and stability. With your travel trailer loaded and ready to go, having about 650 pound of tongue weight, this system is rated appropriately for your needs. If you are experiencing too much front end sway you may need to make some adjustments to place more of the load on the front axle These adjustments can be made at the angle of the head. Please see your specific installation instructions for more details.
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Rachael H - 8/12/2014I purchase a used trailer recently and have made several purchases from etrailer to include a Straight-Line Weight Distribution Hitch (RP 66084), 2 5/16 Ball (19286), RV Generator Plug (CAM 55333), Aqua Hose, sealing trim for roof and side seams etc... All of the products have arrived on time and are of high quality. The trunnion bar holes on the RP 66084 were missed drilled so I called etrailer(Laser) and he shipped me out replacement bars which arrived sooner than expected along with a return label for the miss-drilled bars. Products are quality, service is quality and inventory is exceptional. It is a pleasure doing business with them. 403322
This is a great product, so glad I installed on our 28' travel trailer! When hooked up to the truck, the truck and trailer feel like one unit. Plan on adding the side sway mechanism next summer. 449187
I had experience with towing travel trailers before, but it had been a while. When we decided to buy a new trailer, the hitch setup the trailer dealer proposed just didn't seem right for the job. Doing some research on my own, I came across the etrailer.com site. From the information that was available on the site I was able to focus in on what I thought would be the best fit for my F-150 towing an 8,000 lb + trailer. When I called with questions, I was fortunate that I talked to Wayne--one of etrailer's product specialists. This was like talking to a trusted brother. We discussed a few different brands and the pros and cons; but in the end decided the Strait-Line RP66084 would be the best fit. After that conversation, I did some more research on my own and--besides discovering that Wayne's advice was fantastic and spot on--found that the Strait Line system proposed was top ranked. The features I was looking for: (1) Leveling (weight distribution) capabilities (2) Sway control (3) Safety (4) Tracking (holding the trailer steady behind you when taking curves (5) Ability to back up without having to get out of truck and manually release a brake bar and (6) simple enough to install for a shade tree mechanic. The Strait-Line fit the bill and I'm very appreciative that etrailer.com has experts--rather than sales-focused pushy people--to help you make the right decision. I've pulled my trailer with ease and the Strait-Line has lived up to every expectation. And etrailer.com's price was great and the shipping had it delivered sooner than expected. It's rare when you can say you are COMPLETELY SATISFIED with a product, service, quality, and price--but I can that about my purchase of the Strait-Line RP66084 from etrailer.com 199001
Ken W - 06/01/2016I've been very happy with the system that we got, we put almost 7,000 miles on it in 2017 and it rode great. I added a secondary friction sway control to compliment the control provided by the leveling bars and cam assembly and over those miles it never felt uneasy. A couple of times we were in some pretty good cross winds and I would notice enough to put two hands on the wheel but the rest of the time it was almost easy to forget we were towing a 28' trailer. I'd definitely recommend spending a little time at your local Cat Scales to find out your specific truck / trailer and tongue weights, but this hitch and distribution assembly gave us the ability to tune the tongue weight into right where we wanted by the selection of the right link. The peace of mind the overall control that it provided going down the road is well worth it. 475620
Packedge arrived a day early which is good, heavy cardboard box, little damage from the long cross counry delivery, inside all o,k. I installed the hitch as instructed without a problem, next week I hope to have a road test, it looks well built. Dodge Ram 2500 28' toy hauler. Thanks guys. 333875
It s - 01/19/2018Works as expected. Easy to install after reviewing the videos 764011
Website had great instructions for installation. Shipping was really fast and the customer service was really great. 747618
OMG, the Reese straight-line weight distribution hitch is fantastic. No complaints whatsoever. Pull a 23 foot Rockwood trailer of 3,200 pounds with my 2016 Ram 1500. Pass the semi-trailers with confidence and absolutely no white knuckles. Great product. 710961
etrailer did a fabulous job coordinating many products for my application. I am towing a sports car hauler/ camper combination trailer with a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee V8. It all works extremely well. Backing up goes very well too, even if I do have limited view, I can always see one side at a minimum. Thanks for the knowledgeable staff! I had a lot of questions and wasn't entirely sure which setup would suit my situation best, and they guided me to the setup best for me. 699266
The sway control worked OK when the hitch was new but after 8000 miles and as the hitch wore in, my 32 foot trailer became harder to control as the trailer mounted sway brackets developed flat spots on the rollers - the grinding noise which got worse as the hitch heated up from the vehicles exhaust has become unbearable. I have elected to order a different hitch / sway system which unfortunately is not sold by etrailer. 692526
Rachael H - 08/28/2019Product works great for my setup, before I had a standard weight distribution system and my 37’ camper was all over but with this trunnion setup greatly reduces my white knuckle driving I experienced before. It does take some work to install but got it done in about 3 hrs because I checked and rechecked before drilling the necessary holes in the tongue. 640026
Love this. Never feel sway and being able to back up without discontecting the bars really helps. Definitely would recommend 610908
Richard R - 03/11/2020Works as described. I'm pulling a 30' Arctic Fox, approx 11,000 lbs with a 7.3 diesel. No issues, pulls smoothly and corner's well. Backing up does not require unhooking any parts. 602673
Works great 602629
Perfect, this is exactly what we needed for a weight distributing hitch w/sway control, shipping and service was very good. Will use this company again. Thanks 592499
Steve C - 12/24/2019Best decision I’ve made trailering buying this hitch setup. Works excellent on 10,000 travel trailer we tow. Makes towing so much better on sway alone! 525092
Order arrived on time and in good shape. No surprises at all. They do a great job of helping you get what you want or need and getting it right to you. 510792
Two long trips pulling the camper and about to go on a third. Been a good hitch. 498402
So far so good. I received the product yesterday, and have it looked over. I have read some reviews about some of the paint being chipped, this is true. etrailer, is a great company to work with. I received exactly what I ordered, and it is quality at a good price. etrailer also over communicates (this is awesome). I will, and already have ordered more items from them. 492043
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