Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475

Item # 02475

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Our Price: $11.00

Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475 Race 02420 02475
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475 part number 02475 can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 02475

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 8000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • etrailer
  • Bearing 02475
  • Race 02420

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


Features:

  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): 02420
  • Application: outer bearing for 8-231-8, 8-218-9 and 8-187-7 hubs


02475 Replacement Bearing







Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475 - 02475

Average Customer Rating:  4.6 out of 5 stars   (20 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.

- 02475
by:

Great service, was hoping for faster delivery, lug nuts I ordered won’t work they tell me but it’s all good thank you 704964



- 02475
by:

Hi I got all my stuff and packaging was great. I ordered these parts for back up if I have issues on the road with my RV you seem to have everything I need and great product with great price. Thanks 671829



- 02475
by:

Bearings were received in a timely way, installed and have1500 miles on them with no problems. I use etrailer for all my trailer needs and have always gotten good product and good service. 652421



- 02475
by:

Great bearings, great price. Installed these in two of my 6 hubs. So far, after 5,000 miles, I'm not seeing any difference between these and the Timken bearings I have in the other hubs. 562299



- 02475
by:

Wished they were a brand name American bearing like Timken. 548427



- 02475
by:

Great OEM Part.... 502178



- 02475
by:

great product , fast delivery 426204



- 02475
by:

I purchased several products. They arrived as expected. No surprises. Prices are reasonable. Most products have a video review and other helpful product information. 381163



- 02475
by:

received in good time, was what i ordered, well done 379349



- 02475
by:

Worked Great with the the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator for Disc Brakes - 1,600 psi just make sure you find out if you need the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Adapter Module for Ford and Chevy Brake Controllers - HBA-CAM 372716



- 02475
by:

Great product,for the very low price 323634



- 02475
by:

I put disc brakes on my 38 foot 5th wheel travel trailer due to the poor brake quality of the manufacturer. I now drive on the highway with much greater confidence for our safety. The stopping power of these brakes is incredible. The quality of the brakes are superior. I installed them myself finding the instructions accurate and easy to follow. There was a small part missing out of the brake line kit and the part was overnited to me by E Trailer. I have purchased many items from this company and have found the products to be of top quality and fairly priced. The customer service is outstanding. Thank you. 306847



- 02475
by:

Nice bearing and attractive pricing. 266360



- 02475
by:

We use etrailer for all of our trailer parts purchases now. They ship quickly and their prices for the same parts are cheaper. I have yet to have an issue with a purchase. 240165



- 02475
by:

excellent 220693



- 02475
by:

I received order on time as I was told , all parts looks great ,,,I have not installed yet,,but I will continue to get my parts from Etrailer,,Great prices,,On time delivery,,,,Thanks Mark,,and Etrailer 176155



- 02475
by:

Bought the complete replacement bearing set for my Fifth Wheel camper and as always very pleased with the price and fast shipping. Hard to beat the price, just keep coming back, good people to deal with.. 172306



- 02475
by:

Received product, installed as expected, will see how it performs. 88910



- 02475
by:

The product seems to be fine, althought with bearings you cannot really tell until they have been used for a while. I did not rate this higher because of the very poor packaging job etrailer did. I ordered 8 bearings and four seals. Instead of being individually wrapped they were placed in a plastic bag together where they were free to rub against each other. That is not the correct way to ship an item like a bearing that can be easily scored or bent. 76317



- 02475
by:

Very satisfied. Friend of mine had contacted your support for items needed for bearing change...same trailer as mine. I just duplicated his order, arrived on time, and every part correct. Will always come here first. Prices are the best. 72157


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  • Can I Use HR79 Brake Assembly with 02475 OB if Fifth Wheel has 14125A Bearings and a #42 Spindle
  • I reached out to my contact at Kodiak and they advised me that the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit 7,000 lbs # K2HR712D takes ½” studs only. When you go to 9/16” studs, the 7k axle kit # K2HR79DS comes with an 8K hub that takes that only takes the # 02475 bearing. Because you cannot fit 9/16” or 5/8” studs in a 7K hub Kodiak switches it to a 8 K hub. The 6K, 7K, and 8K spindle is the same spindle, the only difference is the outer bearing changes.
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  • Recommended Electric Over Hydraulic System For Disc Brakes On Triple Axle Trailer With 7K Axles
  • For your 7,000 lb axles, I recommend the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit - 13" Hub/Rotor - 8 on 6-1/2 - E-Coat - 7,000 lbs # K2HR79E. This kit uses inner bearing # 25580 (inner diameter of 1.750 inches) and outer bearing # 02475 along with oil seal # RG06-070 which has an inner diameter of 2.250 and an outer diameter of 3.376 inches. You will want to double check these measurements on your spindle using a caliper like # PTW80157 to confirm a fit. I've attached an article to assist. For your...
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  • Replacement Bearings, Races, and Seals for Kodiak Disc Brake Kit K2HR79E
  • We have everything you would need, but just not in a kit at this time. For bearings you would need # 02475 and # 25580. Race # 02420 and # 25520. Then for a grease seal part # GS-2250DL. Based on all of these part numbers it looks like you have Kodiak kit part # K2HR79E on your trailer.
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  • What Is Stud Size For Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly - Item # 8-287-14UC1
  • The Dexter Trailer Idler Hub Assembly, Item # 8-287-14UC1, has 9/16 inch studs. It works with 8,000-lb axles. The kit includes inner bearing (25580) and race, outer bearing and race (02475), race, oil seal, cap, wheel bolts, and lug nuts. It fits a 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern.
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  • Recommended Parts Needed To Rebuild Tri-Axle Trailer With EOH Brakes
  • We have many of the components that will work for you but we do not carry axles that would be big enough to handle the heavy load you said your boat and trailer weigh. I recommend finding a dealer locally to get the right axle for your trailer and boat. When they build the axles for you they should also install brake mounting flanges and spindles to match the other items recommended below. Since you mentioned 8,000 lb axles, I will use that figure for my recommendations for the other...
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  • Disc Brake Conversion for Trailer with Dexter D70 Axle
  • The linked page displays our 7K-rated disc brake kits. These include kits that have stainless steel components. I also linked a helpful article that covers the whole process of installing disc brakes on a trailer. The article includes a table of all the items needed, including components like brake lines, electric-over-hydraulic (EOH) actuators and breakaway kits. The table includes links to each item to make it easy to choose your preferred components. Stainless disc brake kit #...
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  • Is TruRyde Outer Bearing # LM67048 Equal to Timken Bearing 02475
  • The outer bearing in the TruRyde Bearing Kit, part # BK3-300, is part # LM67048. This outer bearing has an internal diameter of 1.25 inches and uses a bearing race # LM67010 with an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The bearing kit # BK3-300 is designed for 5,200-lbs axle, 6,000-lbs axle, and 7,000-lbs axle. I looked up a Timken # 02475 bearing and it also shows an internal diameter of 1.25 inches, but is rated for a larger 8,000-lb axle, so it will be used on a larger hub with a different...
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  • 8,000 lb Electric Trailer Brake Assemblies That Measure 12-1/4 Inch x 3-3/8 Inch
  • I saw the Q&A you were referring to, which is about a decade old as of this writing and there are no 12" diameter x 3-3/8" wide brake assemblies we offer, just the 12-1/4" diameter x 3-3/8" wide # AKEBRK-8 that are rated for 8,000 lb axles. You may need to change your hub and drum to get one compatible with the larger brakes that are now available. To do this you will need to know what bearings your current hub has. You will need to take apart your current hub assembly and look at the...
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  • Recommended Hydraulic Disc Brakes for Dexter 7,000 Pound Axles
  • For the 7,000 pound Dexter axles on your 5th Wheel Camper, I recommend the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR79E. This kit is designed for 7,000 pound axles, 16 inch and larger wheels and features an 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern. The kit includes 2 full brake assemblies (rotor-and-hub assemblies, cast iron calipers, caliper-mounting brackets and caliper-mounting bolts). You will just need to add the compatible bearings with # 25580 and # 02475 and for the grease seal # RG06-070. Then for...
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  • Upgrading From 7K to 8K Electric Brake Assemblies on Trailer for Increased Braking Power
  • You should be able to change out the backing plates, hubs, and brakes on your trailer so you can upgrade to higher rated assemblies, but I do recommend checking a couple things on your tow vehicle first. It's possible that your weak braking is due to a wiring or brake controller issue on the vehicle. If this is the case, changing out the brake assemblies on the trailer won't resolve the issue. I first recommend testing the vehicle side 7-Way with a Multimeter like # BTMT15. Make sure...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seals for 10K Dexter Axles on 2018 Big Tex Trailer
  • According to my research the replacement bearings and seals you need for the 10K Dexter Axles on your 2018 Big Tex trailer are parts # 02475 (race # 02420), # 25580 (race # 25520), and # RG06-070. You can verify this by pulling your hub and checking the numbers on the bearings themselves or if you can get me the part number off of your axle I can call Dexter and verify this for you.
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  • Function of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors
  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors like # BB1980A-SS that you referenced serve a couple of purposes, but they are not really designed to hold air pressure inside a hub. One of the main benefits of a Bearing Buddy does indeed have to do with greasing the bearings. It will replace a standard grease cap and it features an easily accessible grease fitting that makes adding grease to the hubs a much simpler process. When installing a brand new hub or new bearings, you will still want to pack...
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  • Available Replacement Trailer Axle Kits
  • To use new hubs on your existing trailer spindles the new hubs need to use the same bearings. Either bearing part numbers or dimensions such as what you provided (thank you) will allow you to confirm a proper fit. I checked all bearings we offer for ones that have the same (or very close to the) spindle diameters you provided. Bearing # LM48548 has an inner diameter of 1.375-inches so it will fit at the spindle where it measures 1.370-inches. For the outer bearing spindle dimension of...
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  • Will the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR79E Work with the Dexter EZ Lube 7000 Pound Torflex Axles
  • I spoke with my contact at Kodiak and he said that the Disc Brake Kit, # K2HR79E, will work with your Dexter EZ Lube 7000 pound Torflex axles. In addition to the brake kit, you will need the following: Inner Trailer Hub Bearing, # 25580, Qty 2 Outer Trailer Hub Bearing, # 02475, Qty 2 Grease Seal, # RG06-070, Qty 1 These will work with wheels that have an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern and 9/16 inch wheel stud diameter.
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Info for this part was:

Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Expert Research:
Adam R
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Sarah W
Video by:
Jonathan Y
Test Fit:
Robert C

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