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  1. Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
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  3. Bearings
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  5. 8000 lbs Axle
  6. 1.250 Inch I.D.
Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475

Item # 02475
Our Price: $17.41
Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Orders above $50 qualify for Free Shipping
Shipping Weight: 0.48 lbs
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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps 02475 - Race 02420 - etrailer
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High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number. Great Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from etrailer. Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475 part number 02475 can be ordered online at or call 1-800-496-5010 for expert service.
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etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - 02475

  • Bearings
  • Standard Bearings
  • 8000 lbs Axle
  • 1.250 Inch I.D.
  • Bearing 02475
  • etrailer
  • Race 02420

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


  • Inner diameter: 1.250"
  • Matching race (sold separately): 02420
  • Application: outer bearing for 8-231-8, 8-218-9 and 8-187-7 hubs

02475 Replacement Bearing

Video of Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Satisfaction Score:

Customer Reviews

Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing - 02475 - 02475

Average Customer Rating:  4.4 out of 5 stars   (72 Customer Reviews)

High-quality, tapered roller bearing is designed for high-speed use. Replacement part uses industry-standard number.


All four rotors are damaged two different deliveries unacceptable they are gouged they are supposed to be smooth for the brake pads if we put the brake pads on here they will turn in brake pads up very fast

Thank you for sharing and for sending pictures. This provides the opportunity to share with our shipping department so that improvements can be made. Customer Service will be in touch to assist you
-- Etrailer Expert Jenny N - 10/28/2022


The product and installation was fine.


I had been looking for wheel bearings and brake hubs for my RV and was not having luck finding them till I contacted Mathew etrailer. He was very helpful and took the time to get the right parts I needed for my rig. When the parts arrived they were exact replacements. The install went well because they were original equipment.


Need to ship in better packaging. Boxes came in with holes. Parts were missing.
Replacement parts were sent out but the job is now delayed waiting on the parts.


Damage due to no packing, thrown in box loose with races loose along with seals. Bearing cages were damaged due to beating during shipping. Constant problem with poor packing on order items

I will have our Customer Service team reach out to you.
-- Etrailer Expert Jenny N - 03/09/2022


Excellent fit.


etrailer is the best source for all of your trailer parts needs. They are always professional and helpfull.

Thanks for the hard work.


Bearings have held up just as well as the more expensive "standard" bearings. We are running a trailer at capacity, or well over capacity, for 20K miles per year and have had no more issues with these Chicom bearings as we have with the Timken equivalent.


I put disc brakes on my 38 foot 5th wheel travel trailer due to the poor brake quality of the manufacturer. I now drive on the highway with much greater confidence for our safety. The stopping power of these brakes is incredible. The quality of the brakes are superior. I installed them myself finding the instructions accurate and easy to follow. There was a small part missing out of the brake line kit and the part was overnited to me by E Trailer. I have purchased many items from this company and have found the products to be of top quality and fairly priced. The customer service is outstanding. Thank you.


You guys did a great job excellent five stores


Looks like the bearings are right size- made in china


China Bearings but what else is new. Great company service and prices are comparable. Would like to have had more questions asked about stud size on the rotors I bought. Cost me $200.00 for my mistake. Rotors had 1/2in studs and I needed 9/16in studs. My bad.


Worked Great with the the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator for Disc Brakes - 1,600 psi just make sure you find out if you need the HydraStar Electric Over Hydraulic Actuator Adapter Module for Ford and Chevy Brake Controllers - HBA-CAM


The bearing just arrived as usual with etrailer service was fast and prices fair. I haven't installed these but have purchased this item before. I use them in a large trailer , heavily loaded and often pulled 16 hrs stopping only for fuel. I and my wife switch off.
I service my own wheels and I change bearings if there is any visible change in them. These bearings last several years. I'm satisfied.


Products received are exactly as what they said they would be and what I expected. However, the ordering process is not user-friendly on line. When purchasing an item, it would be nice to have recommended items that go along with that item. For example, for a rotor, it would be nice to have the bearings and brake pads that go with it listed. Trying to get a hold of an associate is like watching paint dry. When leave a message, it takes 2 days to hear back. The shipping choices are not clear (business vs. calendar days) and not accurate. I paid for 2 day shipping because I was in a hurry and would be on the road. The product showed up in 5 days causing me costly travel changes. No email confirmation was provided after the order was placed until requested. In addition, no shipping tracking number was provided. I had to request it to find out my shipment was going to be late. Products are good, but service and shipping and website is disappointing and needs a lot of work.


Everything came as ordered packed great and in great shape. Thanks so much


The product seems to be fine, althought with bearings you cannot really tell until they have been used for a while.

I did not rate this higher because of the very poor packaging job etrailer did. I ordered 8 bearings and four seals. Instead of being individually wrapped they were placed in a plastic bag together where they were free to rub against each other. That is not the correct way to ship an item like a bearing that can be easily scored or bent.


This total break overhaul was actually fun to do because i got everything from etrailer and I knew it was a perfect fit! One year and thousands of miles later I still love it. If your on the fence, take the plunge, you WILL be happy..

Trailer a 25ft 6500 lb boat up an down the East coast in salt water.


loosely dumped into box with just a little wrap how banged up are they no one knows.


Great bearings, great price. Installed these in two of my 6 hubs. So far, after 5,000 miles, I'm not seeing any difference between these and the Timken bearings I have in the other hubs.


The best place to buy trailer parts


I think it was a wheel bearing. Is the correct size and shape and spins around. Jamie was a great help


Bearings were received in a timely way, installed and have1500 miles on them with no problems. I use etrailer for all my trailer needs and have always gotten good product and good service.


Bought the complete replacement bearing set for my Fifth Wheel camper and as always very pleased with the price and fast shipping. Hard to beat the price, just keep coming back, good people to deal with..


Just starting my new business I knew I would have to do things myself to save money. Etrailer Made it simple with one phone call. Lori was knowledgeable and easy to talk to and I saved hundreds ordering from them. My local trailer sales and service was triple the price.

Thanks etrailer.

Show More Reviews

See what our Experts say about this etrailer Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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  • What Causes Grease Gun to Get Stuck on Grease Fitting
    Grease guns get stuck on fittings due to clogged zerk fittings which don't let the grease pass through and cause a pressure build up that prevents them from releasing. So to get it unstuck unscrews the hose or hardline from the gun which will release the pressure and allow it to come off. You do need to clear out the zerk fitting though. There are solvents for this as well as grease gun like devices (we don't carry) that insert a high pressure solvent to break it up.
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  • What Bearings Does Kodiak 13 inch Hub/Rotors Use
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  • Correct Replacement Bearing and Race to Match 02475 Bearing and 14276 Race
    There are differences in them but we do have what you are looking for and they can in some situations be used together. The Replacement Trailer Hub Bearing you have part # 02475 and Replacement Race for 02475 Bearing part # 02420 are designed to work together and the. The race you have Replacement Race for 14125A Bearing part # 14276 for bearing part # 14125A. With that said both bearings have the same inner diameter but the races are slightly different in size the 02475 is 2.688" outer...
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  • Function of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors
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  • Will the Fulton Grease Cap # F001526 Fit?
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  • Determining Which Kodiak Disc Brake Kit Will Fit a 2021 Jayco Jay Flight Travel Trailer
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  • Hub And Drum Replacement for 90865 Rockwell Hub and Drum
    Based on my research, the Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 8,000-lb E-Z Lube Axles # AKHD-865-8-EZ-K will be a replacement for the 90865 Rockwell hub and drum. Both of these hub and drum assemblies are 12-1/4" diameter, have an 8,000 lb capacity, 8 on 6-1/2" bolt pattern and most importantly share the same bearing numbers, which are inner bearing # 25580 and outer bearing # 02475. I have added a link to a video review of this hub and drum for you to check out as well.
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  • Recommended Kodiak Hub And Rotor With 8 On 6-1/2 Bolt Pattern and 9/16 Inch Bolts
    We have just what you are looking for. The hub and rotor we offer that is made by Kodiak is part # KHR1389E. This is a 13-inch hub and rotor with an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern that uses 9/16-inch bolts and has an e-coat finish. The # KHR1389E is designed for 7,000-lb to 8,000-lb axles and wheels that are 16-inch diameter or larger. The races are included. The bearings are not included. For the inner bearing you will need part # 25580 and for the outer bearing you need part # 02475. The...
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  • Recommended Hub/Rotor With E-Coating And 8 On 6-1/2 Bolt Pattern And Has 9/16 Inch Bolts
    For a hub and rotor with an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern that uses 9/16 inch bolts and has an e-coat finish I recommend part # KHR1389E. This is designed for 7,000 lbs - 8,000 lbs axles and wheels 16-inch are larger. The races are included but the bearings and seal are not included. For the inner bearing you will need part # 25580 and for the outer bearing you need part # 02475. The inner seal you need is part # RG06-070.
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  • Bearings for Lippert 8,000 lb Axle
    The inner bearing you need for a Lippert 8,000 lb axle is the part # 25580 and the outer bearing # 02475 and then for a grease seal you'd need the part # RG06-070. We don't have a kit that has these together.
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  • Could Lug Nuts Be Ordered Differently From Bearing Kit # DBRKHW85G
    You'd have to piece together the kit you'd need using what you do need from the # DBRKHW85G. This comes with bearings part # 25580 and # 02475 and seals # GS-2250DL. I am not totally sure what lug nuts you'd need so I attached a link to a page that has all of the lug nuts we offer.
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  • 8,000 lb Electric Trailer Brake Assemblies That Measure 12-1/4 Inch x 3-3/8 Inch
    I saw the Q&A you were referring to, which is about a decade old as of this writing and there are no 12" diameter x 3-3/8" wide brake assemblies we offer, just the 12-1/4" diameter x 3-3/8" wide # AKEBRK-8 that are rated for 8,000 lb axles. You may need to change your hub and drum to get one compatible with the larger brakes that are now available. To do this you will need to know what bearings your current hub has. You will need to take apart your current hub assembly and look at the...
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  • Replacement Bearings and Seal Recommendation for Kodiak Disc Brake Rotor/Hub on Keystone Montana
    If you have the Kodiak disc brake rotor/hub part # KHR1389D that you referenced the bearings you need are part # 25580 and # 02475 and then the grease seal is the part # RG06-070. If your trailer has 7k axles installed on it these part numbers would be what you'd need.
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  • Recommended Trailer Hub To Convert Trailer From 5 Spoke Wheels To 8 x 6.5 Pattern
    Based on the information you provided, I recommend the Etrailer Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly Item # AKHD-865-8-K. This hub-and-drum assembly fits 8,000-lb axles (will work on your axles but limited to capacity). It includes an inner bearing (Item # 25580) and race and an outer bearing (Item # 02475) and race, grease seal, grease cap, wheel bolts, and lug nuts. It fits an 8 on 6-1/2 inch bolt pattern. Make sure to confirm that these parts will work with your bearings and trailer. For...
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  • Is TruRyde Outer Bearing # LM67048 Equal to Timken Bearing 02475
    The outer bearing in the TruRyde Bearing Kit, part # BK3-300, is part # LM67048. This outer bearing has an internal diameter of 1.25 inches and uses a bearing race # LM67010 with an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. The bearing kit # BK3-300 is designed for 5,200-lbs axle, 6,000-lbs axle, and 7,000-lbs axle. I looked up a Timken # 02475 bearing and it also shows an internal diameter of 1.25 inches, but is rated for a larger 8,000-lb axle, so it will be used on a larger hub with a different...
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  • Hub Replacement for 8000-lb AL-KO Axle
    The best way to determine whether or not a hub is going to fit your axle and spindle is to check the bearing dimensions on your current hub-since that will determine what fits on your spindle. The size/capacity of the axle is more secondary when compared the hub fitting on the spindle; you'll also want to make sure the bolt pattern works with your current wheels to avoid having to purchase new wheels. If your current hub uses inner bearing # 25580 (1.75" inner diameter), outer bearing...
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  • Disc Brake Kit Recommendation for 7,000 lb Dexter Axles
    For Dexter 7k axles we have the Kodiak XL Disc Brake Kit part # K2HR79E which is a confirmed fit and would work well. You will need to provide the bearings though which are part numbers # 25580 and # 02475. For a grease seal you would need part # RG06-070.
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  • Will the Kodiak Disc Brake Kit # K2HR79E Work with the Dexter EZ Lube 7000 Pound Torflex Axles
    I spoke with my contact at Kodiak and he said that the Disc Brake Kit, # K2HR79E, will work with your Dexter EZ Lube 7000 pound Torflex axles. In addition to the brake kit, you will need the following: Inner Trailer Hub Bearing, # 25580, Qty 2 Outer Trailer Hub Bearing, # 02475, Qty 2 Grease Seal, # RG06-070, Qty 1 These will work with wheels that have an 8 on 6-1/2 bolt pattern and 9/16 inch wheel stud diameter.
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