Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2328 - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2328 - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Item # BB2328

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Shipping Weight: 1.18 lbs

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps BB2328 - Bearing Protector Grease Cap - Bearing Buddy
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  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • 2.328 Inch
  • Bearing Buddy
Provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They install in seconds and provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2328 - Chrome Plated (Pair) part number BB2328 can be ordered online at or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.

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  • Reviews (19)
  • Q & A (19)
  • Videos (2)
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  • Why etrailer?

Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB2328

Provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They install in seconds and provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub.


  • Replaces the grease cap in the axle hub
  • Prevents wheel-bearing failure
    • Keeps water and dirt out of hubs and bearings
    • Allows boat trailer wheels to be completely submerged
    • Stops corrosion and pitting on bearings
  • Provides easily accessible grease fitting
    • Makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple
  • Maintains slight, controlled pressure (3 psi) with spring-loaded piston, preventing water from entering hub
  • Prevents overfilling and rear seal damage with automatic pressure-relief feature
    • Grease seeps around piston edges and into barrel when full
  • Constructed of stainless steel internal parts and triple-chrome-plated steel barrel
    • Ensures longer-lasting fit than plastic or aluminum products
  • Includes rubber covers
  • Installs easily
  • Made in the USA


  • Fits 2.328" hub bore
    • Works with outer bearing model LM-67048 (hub not counterbored)
    • Works with outer bearing cup (race) model LM-67010
      • Commonly found on 4,400-lb, 5,200-lb and 6,000-lb Dexter axles (not counterbored)
  • Lifetime warranty

Bearing Buddy installed diagram

Bearing Buddy Operation

Replace your existing grease cap with a Bearing Buddy to ensure a safe, easy way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. To adjust the amount of grease in the hub, use a grease gun to add more through the appropriate fitting. Adding grease moves the Bearing Buddy spring-loaded piston outward 1/8".

The O-ring inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy maintains a seal from the outside. The interior of the Bearing Buddy is pressurized, preventing water from entering the barrel and diluting the grease.

An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that can damage the inner seal.

You can manually check the grease level in your Bearing Buddy by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled.

43100 Bearing Buddy Model 2328 - Chrome Plated (Pair)

This Product Fits The Following Vehicles

2017 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 14DB

2017 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 14DBS

2017 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 16BHB

2017 - 2017 Livin Lite CampLite Travel Trailer 16TBS

2013 - 2013 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 16UL

2019 - 2019 Forest River Ozark TT Toy Hauler 1700TH

2019 - 2019 Forest River Salem FSX Travel Trailer 170SS

2019 - 2019 Forest River Wildwood FSX Travel Trailer 170SS

2019 - 2019 Forest River Evo Travel Trailer 177FQ

2019 - 2019 Forest River Evo Travel Trailer 177QB

2019 - 2019 Forest River Salem FSX Travel Trailer 178BHS

2019 - 2019 Forest River Wildwood FSX Travel Trailer 178BHS

2019 - 2019 Forest River Salem FSX TT Toy Hauler 181RT

2019 - 2019 Forest River Wildwood FSX TT Toy Hauler 181RT

2012 - 2018 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 18EC

2016 - 2016 CrossRoads Z-1 Lite Travel Trailer 18RB

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 18ULL

2016 - 2017 Coachmen Adrenaline TT Toy Hauler 19CB

2010 - 2010 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 19UFB

2013 - 2017 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 21VFB

2011 - 2012 Forest River XLR Viper TT Toy Hauler 23FBV

2009 - 2009 Keystone Copper Canyon Fifth Wheel 241SLS

2013 - 2017 Keystone Cougar Half-Ton Fifth Wheel 244RLSWE

2017 - 2018 Keystone Cougar Half-Ton Fifth Wheel 246RLSWE

2010 - 2010 Keystone Copper Canyon Fifth Wheel 248RBS

2016 - 2017 Forest River Work and Play TT Toy Hauler 24UC

2017 - 2017 Forest River Wildcat Travel Trailer 251RBQ

2009 - 2013 Keystone Copper Canyon Fifth Wheel 252RLS

2017 - 2019 Keystone Springdale Fifth Wheel 253FWRE

2018 - 2018 Dutchmen Aerolite Travel Trailer 2573BH

See All Vehicle Fits

Video of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2328 - Chrome Plated (Pair)

Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.

Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.

Customer Reviews

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2328 - Chrome Plated (Pair) - BB2328

Average Customer Rating:  4.7 out of 5 stars   (19 Customer Reviews)

Provide your trailer wheel bearings with premium protection - replace your existing grease caps with Bearing Buddies. They install in seconds and provide an easy, safe way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub.

- BB2328

I was looking for a difficult core size, (2 & 5/16"), and "thanks etrailer" for helping me after I first ordered the wrong size. I got my correct Bearing Buddy set for my older boat trailer. I am excited to put them into action. The BB2328 is the exact size. It was difficult to get them started, as the alignment required exactness, but I managed and I will not worry about them to fall out or easily be stolen. These BBs are a seamless fit. Thanks again etrailer... 578499

- BB2328

Fast shipping as always with etrailer. Measured inside diameter of hub with calibers and etrailer was the only one with that size. Fit perfect and easy install with a block of wood and hammer. 503433

- BB2328

So far these have held up great. I have had zero issues with them. 640368

- BB2328

Fits as they should. Easy to install. I have them on 4 trailers. Would not use anything else. 607741

- BB2328

Work great so far. Fast shipping and great customer support. 567075

- BB2328

Nice product, fast delivery. 523713

- BB2328

I looked long and hard for these specific bearing buddies, great service! 520103

- BB2328

I received the wrong size buddy bearings. Asked for return info but never received. 511924

- BB2328

Great thanks so much 485204

- BB2328

very good service 475900

- BB2328

Delivered, installed, Thanks. 440548

- BB2328

Bearing Buddies are excellent for boat trailers. provides prompt delivery of what I need 394392

- BB2328

The Buddy Bearing ordered fit great based on the information received from etrailer advisor. They were very helpful based upon measurements supplied to them. The Buddy Bearing has performed excellent. 289424

- BB2328

Ordered product on 9/26 and received order on 9/28 extremely quick and very pleased with service. 228246

- BB2328

My buddies fit a little loose. I used a little lock-tight and some tension pins to keep them in place. 195237

- BB2328

Great 192546

- BB2328

Anyone with any trailer experience has already heard of "bearing buddy" and if it wasn't a great product there wouldn't be so many copy cats. What impressed me the most was the fact they had them in the 2.3" size, and even more impressive is etrailer was the only place I could find them. To top it all off, I needed them in a hurry and etrailer got them here on time. They are great to use on any trailer, but I would never have a boat trailer without them, EVER. Great product. Great distributor. Thanks etrailer! 90584

- BB2328

I will not be using this for 3-4 weeks because the trailer is at a different location....However the initial sale and shipment have been serviced with excellent speed and communication Thank you very much 65500

- BB2328

Contacted by phone and spoke to John H. Extremely helpful and was able to steer me to the right size of bearing protectors that I needed. Will be shopping here again. 36540


Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps
Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?

  • Trailer Idler Hub That Uses a LM67048 Bearing and Has a 5 on 4-1/2 Inch Bolt Pattern
  • The LM67000LA is a Timken part number for a bearing cone with a 1.250" I.D. and a 2.328" O.D. This is the same as our bearing part # LM67048. The LM67010 is a Timken part number for a race with a 2.328" O.D. that matches our part # LM67010. The only trailer hub we have that uses this bearing/race and has a 5 on 4-1/2" bolt pattern is the Trailer Hub Assembly part # T1721400042. This hub uses a LM67048 inner bearing (1.250") and a LM11949 outer bearing (.750"). Unfortunately, we do not...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy for 2-3/8" Grease Cap
  • A measurement of 2-3/8" is equal to 2.375" and there are a number of bearing buddies that are close to that measurement. In order to determine the exact replacement you need, you'll have to use a digital caliper such as # PTW80157 and measure your hub bore for the exact measurement. Your other option would be to take a look at your outer bearing, as that will also tell you what you'd need. Bearing Buddy # BB2240 fits a 2.240" hub bore and works with 1700 series outer bearings. Bearing...
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Dust Cap/Grease Cap For Older Boat Trailer With Cap Measuring 2.312 Inches
  • For your boat trailer I recommend the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2328 - Chrome Plated (Pair) # BB2328. These are designed to have extra grease and keep water out of your hubs so they can be completely submerged. If you are looking for a standard grease cap, the closest we have to your 2.312 measurement is the Fulton Grease Cap - 2.333" Outer Diameter - Drive In # F001601 which should work.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Hub Bore that is 2.328 inches
  • That would mean that you have a Bearing Buddy designed for a 2.328 inch hub bore and you would need the part # BB2328 as a replacement.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Hub Bore Size 2-3/8 inches
  • 2-3/8 in decimal is 2.375 inches. The closest Bearing Buddy to that is the part # BB2328 which is for 2.328 inch hub bores.
    view full answer...

  • How to Determine Correct Bearing Buddy for 1994 Ranger Trailer with Outer Race # 68110
  • The outer race number you provided, 68110, corresponds to part # L68110 from TruRyde. This race works with bearing # L68149 and has an outer diameter of 2.327 inches. The Bearing Buddy with the closest diameter to this is part # BB2328, which is a chrome-plated pair of bearing protectors that fits a hub bore of 2.328 inches. We also offer a stainless-steel version, part # BB2328SS. You will need to confirm either the outer bearing number from your trailer spindle or take a precise...
    view full answer...

  • How to Determine the Right Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector for 2-3/8 Inch Hub Bore
  • To choose the correct bearing protectors, if available, you will have to measure the hub opening using dial or digital calipers because the measurement has to be as exact as possible. Bearing protectors are measured to the thousandth of an inch (3 decimal places). None of the bearing protectors we carry are exactly 2-3/8 inches (2.375 inches) but # BB2328 and # BB2328SS are the closest at 2.328 inches. The next step up, # BB2441, at 2.441 inches would likely be too big if the measurement...
    view full answer...

  • Grease Cap Recommendation for Hub Bore of 2.3125
  • Sounds like the part # F001926 would work as a standard grease cap as it is designed to fit hub bores of 2.333. However, this is a pretty short cap at only 1.281 inches. The other solution you have would be a Bearing Buddy like part # BB2328. This is designed to fit hub bores of 2.328. Bearing Buddies are similar to grease caps, except they have a zerk fitting on them that allow the spindle to be lubed easily.
    view full answer...

  • Replacement Bra for Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector
  • The grease in your Bearing Buddy (and the grease behind it inside the hub bore) should have blocked any mud from actually entering the bearings. However, naturally you will want to make sure to remove all the dirt and any contaminated grease from the interior of the Bearing Buddy before re-filling it with your grease gun like # L30416. If you need a new bra for your Bearing Buddy we offer them in 3 sizes: 2-7/16-inch O.D. # BB23B (the original size included with your Bearing Buddy) 2-1/8-inch...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy to Fit Ranger Tandem Trailer with Hub Bore Diameter 2.296 in
  • You are between sizes based on what you listed but most likely you need the # BB2328 that you referenced which is for a hub bore of 2.328 inches. The next size down is the part # BB2240 which is for a 2.240 inch diameter bore and is most likely what you tried that ended up falling out.
    view full answer...

  • Installing Bearing Buddy Bra # BB23B
  • As a first step, make sure you are using the correct Bearing Buddy Bra for your application. The # BB23B you mentioned is sized to fit Bearing Buddies that fit hub bores ranging from 2.240 inches to 2.562 inches, or model #s BB2328, BB2328SS, BB2441, BB2441SS, BB2717, BB2717SS, BB2562, BB2562SS, BB2240 and BB2240SS. Applying a very very small bit of grease (I am talking tiny) to the outside of the Bearing Buddy will allow the bra to slide on easier. While sliding the bra into place,...
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  • Which Bearing Buddy Will Fit Trailer With Hub Bore Diameter Of 2.328
  • The Bearing Buddy that has the closest dimension to the size you referenced is part # BB2328. This Bearing Buddy is designed to fit hubs with an inner diameter of 2.328. If you can let me know what the outer bearing number is you have installed on your trailer, we can check to make sure this Bearing Buddy would work for you.
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  • What is the Correct Bearing Buddy for Use on 2005 Airstream Classic
  • You can determine what type and size of Bearing Buddy to use on your Airstream trailer by taking a look at the current hubs. You will need to know if the hub bore is threaded or not and you'll also need to take a precise measurement of the hub bore diameter using a dial or digital caliper. You'll need to measure to the nearest thousandth of an inch, or three decimal places like 1.781-inches. Once you know your type and size of hub bore you can use the linked page to select those features...
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  • Selecting a Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector for Utility Trailer with 2-1/3-Inch Hub Bore
  • In order to select a Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector such as # BB2328 you will need to know the hub bore to the nearest thousandth of an inch (three decimal places), e.g. 2.328-inches. Bearing Buddies come in many sizes and the differences between them can be quite small. Also, some have threads to allow use in threaded hubs. The best way to proceed is to use a precision digital caliper to take your measurement. You can then use the link provided to select a Bearing Buddy kit that has...
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  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation with Outer Diameter of 2-3/8 inch
  • Since you need a Bearing Budddy with an outside diameter of 2-3/8 inches the closest Bearing Buddy we have is the part # BB2328 which has an outer diameter of 2.328 inches. This comes with bras to fit the Bearing Buddies as well.
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  • Repacking Hubs for Boat Trailer 2003 Tracker Dual Axle
  • If you have not repacked the bearings since new or in the last 2 years I would definitely repack the bearings. The time it takes will be quickly forgotten when you are out on the road and assured that your trailer is safe and not going to cause you problems. Because boat trailers are backed into the water they are subject to getting water in the bearings and breaking down the grease inside. If the boat is backed into the water when the bearings are still warm from transporting the boat...
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  • Availability of Grease Cap for 2.3125 Inch Hub Bore Diameter
  • The closest grease cap we have available to the 2-5/16 (2.3125) inch measurement you took on your hub bore is the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB2328. These are designed to fit hub bores that have an inner diameter of 2.328 inches. This is awfully close to your measurement, but they still might be a bit too large to fit your hubs if your measurement is correct. I just recommend verifying your measurement one more time to make sure you are getting an accurate reading. I have attached...
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  • Bearing Buddies for a Boat Trailer with 2.308 Hub Bore
  • Losing grease/dust caps or bearing protectors is all too common. It usually happens when caps are not driven in properly. The spinning of the wheel and the centrifugal force then causes the caps to wiggle free and fall out. Given that your hub bore measures 2.308 inches the best match would be a 2.328 model such as # BB2328. It will be a tight fit, which is what you want. To drive them in flush place a block of wood against the Bearing Buddy and tap the wood all around, not just in...
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  • Bearing Buddy Bra for Bearing Protector on 2008 Shorelander Galvanized Boat Trailer
  • It looks like you are needing the bra for a bearing protector. We do not carry any bras that say Shorelander on them, but Bearing Buddy makes some that would probably work for you. Part # BB17B are 2 inch diameter, and the # BB19B are 2-1/8 inch in diameter.You would need to measure the outside diameter of your bearing protector to determine which bra is the correct one for you.
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Info for this part was:

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