Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2441T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2441T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair)

Item # BB2441T-SS

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Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

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Bearing Buddy Bearing Protector Grease Cap Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB2441T-SS
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Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub. Lowest Prices for the best trailer bearings races seals caps from Bearing Buddy. Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2441T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair) part number BB2441T-SS can be ordered online at etrailer.com or call 800-298-8924 for expert service.
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Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps - BB2441T-SS

  • Caps
  • Bearing Protector Grease Cap
  • 2.441 Inch
  • Bearing Buddy

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.


Features:

  • Replaces threaded grease cap in the axle hub
  • Prevents wheel-bearing failure
    • Keeps water and dirt out of hubs and bearings
    • Allows boat trailer wheels to be completely submerged
    • Stops corrosion and pitting on bearings
  • Provides easily accessible grease fitting
    • Makes adding grease to the bearings quick and simple
  • Maintains slight, controlled pressure (3 psi) with spring-loaded piston, preventing water from entering hub
  • Prevents overfilling and rear seal damage with automatic pressure-relief feature
    • Grease seeps around piston edges and into barrel when full
  • Constructed of stainless steel
    • Ensures longer-lasting fit than plastic or aluminum products
  • Includes rubber covers
  • Installs easily
  • Made in the USA


Specs:

  • Fits 2.441" hub bore
    • Replaces Tie Down's Turbo Lube oil baths
    • Works with outer bearing models LM-67048 (hub counterbored), 15123 and others
    • Works with outer bearing cup (race) models LM-67010 and 15245
  • Bearing Buddy recommends using a grease proof gasket cement when installing
  • Lifetime warranty


Bearing Buddy installed diagram

Bearing Buddy Operation

Replace your existing grease cap with a Bearing Buddy to ensure a safe, easy way to monitor and control the level of grease in your axle hub. To adjust the amount of grease in the hub, use a grease gun to add more through the appropriate fitting. Adding grease moves the Bearing Buddy spring-loaded piston outward 1/8".

The O-ring inside the barrel of the Bearing Buddy maintains a seal from the outside. The interior of the Bearing Buddy is pressurized, preventing water from entering the barrel and diluting the grease.

An automatic pressure-relief feature is built into the Bearing Buddy. When the device is full, grease will seep around the edges of the piston and into the barrel. This prevents overfilling that can damage the inner seal.

You can manually check the grease level in your Bearing Buddy by pressing on the edge of the piston. If you can rock or move the piston, the hub is properly filled.



42418 Bearing Buddy Model 2441T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair)







Video of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2441T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair)


Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information.




Video Transcript for Trailer Bearings Races Seals and Caps Rebuild

Speaker 1: Today we're going to take you through the rebuild process on a couple of hubs. We've got an idler hub, and here we've got a hub and drum assembly. Works with electric rigs, but this can also work for just standard discs, if you've got a disc brake style setup.Basically what we're going to show you is how to get all of the bearings out. How to remove the seal. How to remove the race's if they're damaged, then get them replaced in the proper manner. We'll show you how to use an easy loop hub, which we have here.The first thing we are going to need to do is, get the grease cap off the end.

It can have either a rubber plug in it like this one does, or it can be a solid metal cap.These are pressed fit in there, basically by tapping on them on the back side. To remove them, a deadbolt hammer is typically what we're going to use. We're just going to start tapping as we go around. You'll see a little separation start right here, and slowly it'll work it's way off.Now the next step's going to vary a little bit depending on your axle setup. Do you see this is going to have a keeper that goes around the nut.

And that prevents that from being backed off, or removed. A lot of times you'll have a castle nut, which will have just little tabs that stick off, and there will be a cotter pin that passes through it. Just depending on your application, you need to get the keeper for the nut off. This style we just kind of pry out. A cotter pin you would just remove of course.Once we have that off ...

We'll start to take off the nut here, and the washer that's in behind it. Now yours should look a whole lot more dirty than this. There should be a lot of grease packed in, and through the hub, this one's brand new. We thought it'd be nice to show you the components before the grease was on .. Of our washer that comes off.And then here we're going to have our outer bearing.

Continue to pull that. We're gonig to have our inner bearing here. That sits in the backside of the hub. And we didn't put it in yet, we will show you how to put it in. But a seal would typically be covering the backside here. We'll show you how to use a seal removal tool, or another tool. To get that pried up and out. To get an access to that inner bearing.Now for a drum style like this, that process for disassembly is going to be just the same. One thing to keep in mind if you're using a disc brake setup. You'll have to remove the caliper before the disc is going to come off.Now once we have the spindle exposed, as we said this is going to be really greasy. We want to get all the grease removed, and the first thing we'll do is inspect it. We want to make sure that it looks just like what we have here. Everything's nice and smooth. We don't see any kind of discoloration, or any marring on the metal. Indicating that our bearing's got hot.If you do have any of those symptoms, at this point it's time to replace those bearings. You don't want to repack them. Get new bearings, and put in there. You might have a bearing that's come apart in here. Another surface to ensure is in good condition, is where your seal is going to go. That helps seal all the grease inside of our hub. With a damaged or broken seal, that grease is going to seep out. Either out of the hub, or in this case into our brake assembly.Now if your axle has brakes, we're also going to check the disc. Make sure it doesn't have any issues, or your hub. And this is going to be a hub and drum assembly. The brakes are going to ride on this machine surface. You're going to check that for signs of excessive heat, discoloration, or cracking. And this is our magnet surface. We'll check that surface for the same issues.Now inside the hub regardless if it's a disc brake, it's a drum brake like this. Or just a standard idler style hub. You're going to have an outer race. Would be right here, it's a small tapered piece of metal your bearing sits in, and rotates on. That's basically the outer portion of the bearing.You have the same thing here on the backside. This is called the inner race. Now if those show any signs of wear, overheating, or cracking. Those are also something we'll need to replace, which we'll show you how to do in just a minute.Now, with your brake assembly exposed, if you do have electric brakes like we have here. It's a good idea to check all the components for wear, cracking, maybe missing pieces. Check your pad thickness to make sure those are in good shape. Basically if you have a non working brake assembly and you put everything back together, you're just going to have to take it apart and do it all over again to get back to the brake assembly. This gives you a really good option to be able to change them out.And most applications are going to use a four, or maybe a five bolt flange to hold them in place. And you'll just remove the lock nuts, or sometimes you'll have a hex nut with a lock washer. You want to remove those, and then simply slide your assembly off after you cut the wiring.The friction material itself should also be checked for any kinds of cracking, or overheating. If you have any grease inside the system at all, it's likely it's gotten on those pads. It's a good idea to get those changed. Now as far as the removal of the races go, it's going to be just the same whether we're using an idler style hub like we have here. A drum brake like we have here. You can basically see where the idler is, here in the middle of the hub. It's going to go all the way around there, and we just have this extra material here to provide our braking surface.Now if you're doing a disc brake style job again, it's going to be just the same here with the races living inside of the actual hub portion. You'll just have the discs there for the brakes to make contact. We're going to use this little bit smaller one, it's a little bit easier to manage to show you how to get these out. We've talked about where the races are. The outer here, the inner being closer to the inside, but on the backside of the race there's a little lip. That lip's meant to stick out just a little bit further than the hub, and provide us an area to put our tool on, and help to drive that out.If you look all the way through there on that inner race, you'll see that little lip that sticks out just from the hub slightly, and it gives us enough area to use our tool on. Now generally to remove these you're going to use a punch, similar to this. Some guys will use a screwdriver. Or a piece of pipe. If you have a piece of pipe that's small enough to fit inside of that diameter, you can take that down through and allow it to rest on that lip.Use our punch, and then just need a hammer. And we'll start working that out. We're going to tap all the way around. Kind of equally, and evenly apply the force to get it to come on out of the bottom for us.You can see now as it starts to come out there's going to be a little gap created between the hub and the race. And we can just keep going, bringing it on out. Then you can inspect the inside of the hub surface there. Make sure no damage or anything has occurred, and repeat that same process for the outer race if you plan on removing and replacing that one.Now in the outer flat edge, you can see we're going to have our tapered edge on this side. If we roll our race over to the flat side, typically there's going to be a manufacturers part number on there. That will help you identify which race it is, that you need to go back in your system. If those are rubbed off, worn off, if you can't read them. You can measure the outside, to outside diameter of the race here. It's a good idea to use a micrometer to get it exact.Now here's your basic micrometer. And again, the outside of the race is what we're going to need to measure. You want to go . I set the thickest point there. Looks like this one's going to be about 1.98. That's going to be the measurement you'll want to supply.Now while we've got this out, let's also look at the proper way to measure our bearing. Instead of the outside for the bearing, we need to measure the inside diameter. That's going to be pretty simple. Let's pull that out, find the largest measurement we can. Which here, looks like it's going to be 1.03. With that information, we'll be able to get the correct bearing, and the correct race, so they'll fit together properly and make a full bearing kit for us.Now here's the race, we're going to show you how to get this put back in. Basically just going to press fit inside of our hubs. We need to get it down on there. Kind of like that. And you'll have a couple options. A lot of times you're going to see do it yourself or at homer, just going to use a wooden block. Just place it on there. That's going to get you started, but at that point you'll struggle in getting it to go all the way down into it's seat.Now to take care of that problem, there are several seal drivers that are available. Seal and race drivers that are available out there on the market. It's designed to fit down inside of our race, inside of our hub and get it down there where it needs to go. This is part number ptw83020, has several different sizes, even if you have multiple trailers it's going to do the job.Now the side with the angle on it, is designed to fit down inside of our race. If we use the other side, that's going to be for driving your seal into place. Just want to hold it, and take it on in with your hammer. You'll see, you just want to insure that our race is all the way up against that line on the hub where it's supposed to mate to.Now when it comes time to pack your bearings you're going to have several different ways of doing this. You can just use your hand, is the traditional method. That's going to be the method probably reserved for the very occasional trailer work kind of situation. If you do it once or twice a year, probably get away with it that way.Next you would go to a, kind of a sandwich funnel style almost. If you look inside of there, you can see the bearing. It's located between the two pieces. Just use a grease gun. Start filling that with grease, and that's going to fill our bearing for us. And the third, with this one you're just going to place your bearing down and in. It should be pretty close to center. And then we've got our cone her that's going to go down and secure that.Now I think this style, wastes a little bit more grease than what this style will. This has a dust cap. You can see, you can keep your grease in there, put your dust cap on there and save it for later use. This will be if your going to do it every couple years. And this particular style would be if you're a more regular user.Let's start by showing you how to use a bearing packer. Similar to this. Again, we've just got our grease inaudible 00:11:07 here on the top. And then just slowly start to fill it. Now I like this style quite a bit. I think even regular users might enjoy it, because you can get a really quick visual look at that bearing. You're not going to have to overdo it, or have to much grease.You can kind of see in there now, we're starting to get grease to come out of it. Couple more pumps, we'll be good. You can see we've got grease coming out all the way around. Where all of our bearings are. Got a little bit of excess there. Just take that around the outside of it. And then we should be able to lift it off. And now you can see what we we're talking about. Just a little bit of excess there, that you're just going to wind up wasting.Now we'll take our bearing, we're going to place it right down in our race. And then we'll cap off the back with our seal. Right now our seal's going to fit in just like our race did. It's going to have a little bit of a pressure fit to it. Now very often in this situation, I see people using the four by four method. Kind of here, just placing that on and tapping it. As an option though, if you do have one of these. You can see that's designed to fit right on the top of the seal. And help drive it in.The biggest thing here is, just going to be getting it driven in squarely. You can see, this side's in a little bit further than this side. I'm going to start this side first. Now since we didn't have the opportunity to show you before, we're going to take a look at pulling a seal. Now this is a seal puller, we carry this on our website part number ptw1219. This is meant to hook underneath the seal. And then you kind of pull up on it, and just like our race you'll have to work all the way around that edge. Just bringing it out a little at a time.If you don't have that available. Another option would be a screwdriver. You just kind of get that under the seal, and turn it. And see, that'll allow you to also pop that out. We've taken care of our race. Our inner bearing. Our seal. The last component, before we put our hub back in place is going to be our outer bearing. Now with this bearing, I'll show you the hand packing method.This is definitely . Slightly dirtier method than the bearing packer. When we get grease on our hand we want to look at the larger side of the bearing. This is the smaller side. We have a larger side In between the inside and outside there's a gap. We can see our rollers in there. We want to grab that, and use that gap and shove grease inside of it. Now this is going to take a little bit, you want to work in the same spot until you get the grease pushed all the way through. We can see on the top there we've got a little bit starting to come through.And once we push it in the bottom, and you see it start coming out the of the top in those little drips, it's going to indicate that, that section's fully packed. Just need to work all the way around their outside edge now and do the same thing. Alright, once that's all the way around . The bearing will be ready for use.Now one more thing I like to do. We can see our inner bearing there, and our outer bearing. Well between the two, got a pretty big gap in there. If you'll take a . Pretty good amount of grease. We're just going to go all the way around. See how we can go all the way around the inside and just line that really well. The more grease we have in here, the less chance we have of any moisture getting in there, which can cause corrosion, rust, pitting. Pretty much things we do not like when it comes to bearings, races, and hubs.Put plenty of grease in there. And then this one does have the easy lube spindle, that'll even fill it in more. Now we can get our assembly slid on. I like to keep my thumbs on that outer bearing, just to prevent it from . inaudible 00:15:28 pushed off there. Now we can put on the original hardware that we removed, in taking off our hub the first time. In our case, we had our washer and our nut.Now most commonly you'll see pliers similar to this being used. We basically want to get that tightened down. Once it's fully tightened down you'll feel some resistance in the hub. We back it off just slightly. That'll give us a little bit more freedom of motion there. Something you don't want however . Is any movement in, or out on your hub. You want to be sure that everything is compressed, and you don't have what's called end play. Which would be the play in and out.Once we've got that set, then you'll put on whatever tight keeper yours came with. Get that put back in place. Now with an easy lube style hub, you're going to place your grease gun on the end, and then you can just fill the remainder of that hub up.Now for your typical applications, you're either going to have a solid cap, or a cap that'll have a rubber plug in it. A solid cap's going to be for an axle without the grease inaudible 00:16:51 here on the end. Goes on there. Just knock it on with your rubber mallet. Same with the one with the plug. Just gives you a removable area there, be able to cap that off.We'll show you how to put that on. Now as alternatives as well, a lot of times on boat trailers and marine kind of situations. You'll see a bearing buddy. This is going to apply a little bit of pressure on the grease, you'll fill it up. This kind of comes out just a little bit. That applies constant pressure on the grease to make sure we don't have any air, or anything like that. Then there is also an oil bath hub available. Now this is going to be for use with seals that are going to be designed specifically for oil bath use. You'll have to change that seal.We're using a double lip seal. There are also single lip seals available. Of course a double lip seal is going to give you just a little additional security. Keep that in mind when you order. But let's get this knocked on there now so you can see how that works. We just want to take the cap, we're going to center it. This is going to be very similar to what we did with the seal. And then just gently start tapping it around the outside. And it'll seep down on there for you.It's really going to be the same thing that you'll do with any of the end caps. Now with this side done, it's a good idea to take care of all the other hubs. Get them all on the same maintenance schedule. And as long as you'll periodically check the grease, take your trailer out for a trip occasionally. Just to keep everything lubricated. It should extend the life of these parts, and give us years of good service.


Customer Reviews

Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2441T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel (Pair) - BB2441T-SS

Average Customer Rating:  5.0 out of 5 stars   (6 Customer Reviews)

Great for marine applications; the stainless steel construction provides the best in corrosion resistance. The design makes Bearing Buddy an easy way to protect your bearings by keeping water out and ensuring enough grease is in the hub.

- BB2441T-SS
by:

These also replace turbo lube 48399 covers, I put them on my 2009 z520 ranger, took all of 15 minutes to change out, perfect fit, easy installation , feel much better having these vs oil bath, highly recommend. Great buy, very happy!! 641918



- BB2441T-SS
by:

THANKS 716118



- BB2441T-SS
by:

worked as intended. Fast shipping. 458550



- BB2441T-SS
by:

Thanks for the fast shipping 449331



- BB2441T-SS
by:

ONLY PLACE THAT HAD THEM IN STOCK, GREAT DESCRIPTION ON HOW THEY REPLACED THE RANGER COOL HUB CAPS WITH SIZE DEMINSIONS 440493



- BB2441T-SS
by:

If you own a trailer, this a must have! Don't ever risk repairing burnt out bearings along side the road with traffic whizzing by at 70mph, It only happened to me once! 163619


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Ask the Experts about this Bearing Buddy Trailer Bearings Races Seals Caps

Do you have a question about this Trailer Bearings Races Seals Cap?


  • Bearing Buddy to Replace Tie Downs Turbo Lube Oil Bath 48394 Cap?
  • Yes, Bearing Buddy # BB2441T-SS replaces Tie Down's Turbo Lube oil baths. I ran out to the warehouse and double checked that the outer dimension of the threaded portion matches the 2.33" of your Turbo Lube 48394 cap. You will want to remove the oil from the hub using shop towels and a mild detergent. Let them dry completely before packing them. Bearing Buddy also recommends using a High Performance Silicone Gasket Maker like Loctite's # LT37467 for the installation.
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  • Grease Caps Available that Fit a 2.44 Diameter
  • We do have a variety of grease caps that fit the 2.44 inch diameter that you reference; our selection has been linked for you to filter through. Among the options we have the non-threaded Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB2441, the threaded option # BB2441T-SS, as well as traditional grease caps for EZ Lube spindles # RG04-080, and non-EZ Lube spindles # RG04-060. Each of these part numbers come in a quantity of 2 and the prices can be found on the product pages. If you are talking...
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  • How to Pick out Bearing Buddies
  • In order to pick out the correct bearing buddy you will need know the pilot hole of your hub. To do this, remove the wheel and tire and remove the grease cap from the center of the hub. Usually it is a metal cap that is just lightly hammered into place. Use a screwdriver to pry off the cap. Clean the grease off and measure the opening. I have included a video demonstrating the Bearing Buddy. The Bearing Buddies # BB2441 that you referenced are for hubs with a 2.441 inch hub bore. I...
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  • Bearing Buddy Recommendation for Threaded Hub Bore
  • Bearing Buddy does have options for thread hubs like what are seen on oil bath setups. We only have three options though: # BB1980T-SS for a 1.980 inch diameter # BB2441T-SS for a 2.441 inch diameter # BB2080T-SS for a 2.080 inch diameter
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  • Replacing Turbo Lube 48394 Oil Caps on Trailer
  • We do not have your exact Turbo Lube Caps available but we do have the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors # BB2441T-SS that should work great as a replacement. These feature matching dimensions to your existing threaded caps and their stainless steel construction will ensure a long lifespan as they will be resistant to any rust or corrosion. I have attached a short video review on this product that you can check out as well.
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  • What is the Outer Diameter and Thread Pitch of Bearing Buddies # BB2441T-SS
  • I went out to the warehouse and pulled Bearing Buddies # BB2441T-SS. The outer diameter of the threaded portion is 2.34 inches using digital calipers to measure. The thread pitch is harder to determine. There are approximately 9 threads per inch (only three threads on the actual product) and it is coarse threaded as opposed to fine threaded. These Bearing Buddies are designed to replace Tie Down Turbo Lube oil baths.
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  • How To Convert From 2.441 Bub Bore Oil Bath Caps To Bearing Buddies
  • Yes, the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2441T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel part # BB2441T-SS will replace the oil bath caps on your oil bath hubs that leak. These bearing buddies fit a 2.441" hub bore so they will work well for you as long as the thread inside your hub bore is in good shape. You want to make sure you drain the oil as much as possible. Then remove the bearings from the hub, clean them and pack them with grease part # L10320. To grease the bearing buddies...
    view full answer...

  • How to Convert Oil Bath Trailer Hubs to Grease Hubs
  • Actually all you really have to do is remove the oil from the hub and then pack the hubs with grease and then get the correct bearing buddy to match the threaded hub bore. You will need to measure the inner diameter of where the old grease cap installed on your hub to pick out the correct bearing buddy. If that measurement is 1.98 then you would wan the # BB1980T-SS, if it's 2.080 inches and has 12 threads per inch then you'd need part # BB2080T-SS, if it's 2.44 inches you'd want the...
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  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors To Replace Turbo Oil Bath Caps
  • I recommend to measure the inside diameter of your hub bore to switch out the oil bath caps with threaded Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors. The closest we have to the 3.3 inches that would thread into your oil bath hub is Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2441T-SS - Threaded - Stainless Steel part # BB2441T-SS which fit 2.441" hub bore inner diameters. These particular bearing buddies are designed for Turbo oil bath hubs like yours but you still want to measure your inner diameter...
    view full answer...

  • Is there a Trailer oil Bath Hub Oil Cap for a Dexter 6,000 Pound Axle
  • The 21-36 oil cap, # RG04-270, fits 9K (after 10/1989) and 10K GD (2 piece drum), and 10K to 15K Dexter axles. The 21-35, # RG04-230, fits 6K to 8K ( and 9K before 10/1989) Dexter axles. It would be too large with its 2-7/8 inch thread diameter. All of these oil caps are for oil bath hubs. If you are replacing a dust cap, you probably have regular hubs. For bearing protectors measuring 2.441 inches, go with the stainless steel bearing Buddies, # BB2441SS, or, if the hub is threaded,...
    view full answer...

  • What Causes Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors Not To Thread In
  • The Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors like part # BB2441T-SS are very easy to install as they are just a threaded fastener essentially. Therefore, if you are having issues with the threads engaging first make sure that the diameter is correct. Once this is done you will want to inspect the threads on both the hub and bearing protector to ensure none are damaged. If the size is correct and none of the threads are damaged then odds are you just need to clean the threads on the hub more to...
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for 2.42-2.43 Inch Hub Bore
  • Yes, based on the measurements you took of your hub bore diameter the correct Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors is the part # BB2441 or # BB2441T-SS for the stainless steel model that will resist any corrosion. These are designed to fit hub bore diameters of 2.441 inches to allow for easy maintenance while also keeping dirt and water out of the hub. I have attached a short video review that you can check out as well.
    view full answer...

  • Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors Needed for a 1965 Shasta Trailer
  • The Bearing Buddies, # BB2047, are pressed into the hub for a tight fit. To determine the correct part for your trailer hub you will need to measure the diameter of the grease cap mating surface in the hub and match that as closely as possible to the measurements provided on the bearing buddy product pages, see link. If your grease caps are threaded, the Bearing Buddies, # BB1980T-SS, # BB2441T-SS or # BB2080T-SS, may be the correct size for your hubs, measuring to determine the correct...
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  • Available Replacement Grease Seals and Grease Caps
  • The best way to match up a new grease seal is to find the existing seal's part number and cross reference to a currently-available compatible part. When part numbers are not available measurements are needed, so thank you for those. Usually a grease seal's outer diameter should be only a few thousandths of an inch larger than the hub bore. For a grease seal to fit the 2.545-inch diameter of your hub's rear bore you would want one with a diameter in the range of 2.550-inches. We do have...
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  • Wheel, Tire & Bearing Buddy for Trailer with 16-Inch Wheels & ST235-80R16 Tires
  • The linked page displays all pre-mounted trailer wheel/tire products in your ST235-80R16 tire size and 8-on-6-1/2 wheel boot pattern. I also included linked to wheels only and tires only. We do offer Lions Head/Westlake products, both wheels and tires, including the Aluminum Jaguar Trailer Wheel # LHSJ513B. For a Bearing Buddy grease cap to fit your hubs you will need to measure the hub bore using a precision caliper like # PTW80157 and to note whether the bore is threaded or not. Then...
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  • How to Pick Out Threaded Bearing Buddy for Replacing Oil Bath Cap
  • I wasn't able to find any reference to your oil cap or dimensions so what you'll need to do is measure the diameter of your cap so that we can determine if there's a threaded Bearing Buddy that would work. For example, we have the part # BB2080T-SS for if your hub bore is 2.08 inch in diameter, part # BB1980T-SS for 1.98 inch, or part # BB2441T-SS for a bore of 2.441 inch.
    view full answer...

  • Can Oil Bath Hub Dust Cab Be Used with Grease Hubs
  • There isn't a threaded bearing buddy that's going to fit the dimensions you have. You might just stick with the oil cap and pack the bearings with grease by hand.
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  • Threaded Bearing Buddy for Mastercraft Prostar 190 Trailer
  • The Bearing Buddy # BB2562 or # BB2562SS fits a 2.562 inch hub bore. There is not a threaded version of that size available. For threaded Bearing Buddies we have the following options: # BB2441T-SS which fits 2.441 inch hub bore # BB2080T-SS which fits 2.080 inch. # BB1980T-SS which fits 1.980 inch hub bore
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  • Available Sizes of Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors
  • We offer Bearing Buddy bearing protectors like the 1.98-inch ones # BB1980A-SS you referenced in many sizes to fit different hub bore dimensions. The range of sizes runs from 1.781-inches up to 2.717-inches. All of these are shown on the linked page. These include both threaded ones like # BB2441T-SS and non-threaded ones like # BB1980A-SS. Choosing the right ones for your hubs requires taking a precise measurement with a caliper like # PTW80157.
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  • Recommended Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors for Montana Travel Trailer
  • To determine which Bearing Buddies you'll need, use a digital caliper to measure the inside diameter of the hub bore, not the outside diameter of the grease cap. Given the 2.443 inch dimension you provided, it's extremely likely that you'd need the model 2441 Bearing Buddy which measures 2.441 inches in diameter. They're available in chrome as part # BB2441 or stainless as part # BB2441SS. If your hub bores are threaded, use part # BB2441T-SS. I'd still recommend you measure for confirmatio...
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  • How to Determine Correct Bearing Buddy
  • We may have something that will work, though to confirm the right Bearing Buddies you'll need to measure the hub bores on your trailer's hubs using your digital caliper, and match the hub bore diameter to the correct Bearing Buddies. For example, the Bearing Buddy Bearing Protectors - Model 2441 # BB2441 and Model 2441T-SS - Threaded (Stainless Steel) # BB2441T-SS fit a 2.441" hub bore and based on the measurements you gave these are pretty likely to fit your hub. I've added a link...
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Info for this part was:

Written by:
Tyler C
Installed by:
Jeff D
Expert Research:
Jameson C
Video Edited:
Chris R
Updated by:
Hannah L

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